Grading Best Protective Style For Hair Growth

Sometimes your protective style ain't protecting a dang thing. If you're looking to achieve some hair growth, you want to make sure your protective style isn't breaking it off before you have a chance to realize them inches, boo.

Board certified dermatologist and NIH, SOCS, DF supported alopecia researcher Crystal Aguh, MD, FAAD is back helping us with our hair yet again.

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TIMESTAMPS:

0:00 Ain't protecting a DANG thing

1:14 How the protective styles are rated

2:43 Knotless braids

3:54 Box braids

6:02 Faux locs

8:17 Crochet braids & crochet hairstyles

11:18 Sew-in weaves

16:06 Wigs

21:11 MY protective style?!?!

24:25 Twists

26:04 Bantu knots

26:51 Buns

28:13 Roller sets

28:54 Grade recap of the last few

29:29 Low density vs high density (can you go from low to high?)

Video edited by @coreyiel.ellis: https://tsabd.com/3gVS8vv

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Your protective style may not be protecting a damn thing; in fact, it could be damaging your hair and killing any length retention that you received. So today we are going to be grading protective styles. According to your curl pattern. What grade is your go-to protective style gon na get? Is it gon na get an a? Is it gon na get an f keep watching? So, yes, this channel is all about skincare and how to get and maintain better skin. However, obviously your scalp is skin and your hair grows out of your scalp. So it's an extension of that so here we are joining me again today is board certified dermatologist dr crystal agu, dr agu, is the director of the ethnic skin program and associate professor of dermatology at john hopkins school of medicine. He'S the author of the new book. 90 days to beautiful curly, hair and she's, a new mama congrats again now the last time she was on this channel, she dropped some major gems. So again, you know you go ahead and get you a pad and a pen because you won't be jotting and let me go call dr agu and get our conversation on. So i'm gon na set the stage by saying when we talk about protective styles and the damage that they may do right. So people can understand why i may give something: an f versus an a right. So two things that we got to be on the lookout for traction alopecia most most women are aware of that they're like okay. I don't want it to be too tight things like that. The other thing that we have to think about is hair breakage, and that is the takedown process, so think about when you're, removing a style and how much hair is coming out. Some of that is shed hair, but you know i've personally been that person who's taken down. My hair and i've had like a bunch of hair in my hand, and i'm like uh, is this all shut there right and it's not. Some of that is actually broken. Hairs, and so when your hair is too dried out from a protective styles, when you take it out, it's more likely to break. So when i grade things, i'm going to be talking about its ability to cause traction alopecia and its ability to maintain the moisture in your hair. The other thing i want to say is how we grade protective styles differs based on. If you have like 3b hair versus 3c hair or 4b hair or 4c hair, and then if your hair is high density or low density right, because someone with high density 4c hair, one protective style - may be an a for them. But if your low density might be an f right and you guys are both 4c, so those are things to think about, and so i'll try to go through that, as i'm talking about uh styles, so knotless braids, so knotless braids are great because they're going to Be low tension, styles right so they're less likely to pull on your hair. When you install the braid so this gets, i would give it a b for traction and the reason i'll give it a b is because if you have high density hair, it's going to be great right. So maybe you're more like an a. But if you have low density, fine hair, then it's probably gon na be more like a b, minus or c right and so knotless braids are great um in that they're not going to pull as much as traditional breeding styles. But if you're someone who's at risk for traction alopecia, you still want to avoid it. As far as drying out the hair, knotless braids are going to be less likely to dry out the hair than some other protective styles, because if you're still using braid spray, you can get braid spray along the length of the hair. As it's tucked inside the braid and the braiding hair that we use for knotless braids is silkier, so it's not going to pull away moisture. Okay, i didn't realize that that's just a lot so yeah, so so box braids. What? What would that, like the traditional box? Braids, how would that differ? Your traditional box braids are going to be similar um, so i will say this. Sometimes i have women who come into my office and they have a lot of breakage. They can't get their hair to grow past a certain length and - and it's because you know maybe they're natural and they're having a hard time or they're trying to transition to natural - and i say: look - you can do box braids for a little bit to kind of Transition you into kind of taking care of your hair more readily, because the hair is going to be silkier, it's not going to dry out the hair so much and because the individual, like you, know, patches of hair that we're attaching the box spray to are larger. It'S going to pull out less, so i can. I like box braids for high density type, 4 hair and most women with type 3 hair right, um, low density, 4c and even low density 4b. I would avoid box braids because the the risk of traction alopecia will be higher okay, so the difference between high density and low density hair is that um and pertain. Does that pertain to how thick the hair is or how many hairs are present yeah. It'S really how many hairs you have, but then also the texture. Okay. So if you feel your hair and you're like it feels almost like wire, it's very coarse that hair is resilient. Okay, it we say the word coarse and it sounds bad, but it's good. If you feel your hair - and it's like it - feels like cotton like cotton, candy, that's low, resilient, hair right and cotton sounds good, but in this scenario it's actually bad right. It'S just not going to be able to withstand the force from a scientific perspective. It means that it's missing one layer of hair, okay, you can have anywhere between two and three layers of hair people, whose hair feels more wiry, and i'm talking about my type 4 hair right, coarse hair. If it feels wirey, it probably has three layers. If it feels soft, it has two layers in the same kind of realm, faux locs and some of these, like crochet hair styles yeah. What would you grade those yeah faux locs is going to be probably more like in a b minus range. Only because the hair that's used for a faux loc is harsher. It'S drier. Okay, then, like your kanekalon, i don't know how everybody says it kanekalon. I mean that i think that listen you're doing better than me, because i would have been like whatever right on the screen and pointed to it right: okay, so that um, so that hair right that actually is not going to pull out moisture a lot right. So that's why box braids are okay, faux locs, it's it's it's more wiry, it's dryer and so that it's more likely to wick away moisture. So for me i i like faux locs for my type 3 girls in my type 4a. Once we start getting on a 4b4c regardless of your density, it's not my favorite right, but if you're 4a type 3 um, where your sebum is going to coat the hair more easily, because you have fewer curls and that's okay and then my type 3 girls have To worry a little bit less about um the traction alopecia unless they are very, very low density right if you're, very, very low density, you still got to worry about that, but faux locs. I like for my type 3s to 4a. If you see i'd, rather, you do box braids. This is really eye-opening, because i never thought of the actual hair being used drying out your own hair yeah. This is why we have you here absolutely and, like i said you know, i have this new book coming out 90 days to beautiful curly hair. I literally do this. I'M like 3a 3b, 3c 4a, because it's not a one size fits all and it's hard because think about. If you have a group of five friends and you guys all are natural and one girl has faux locs and you're like oh, my god, it looks gorgeous. She takes it out all her hair is, you know, still in place, and you know you try to do it and it pulls out all your hair. It is it's frustrating right and you have to think there are many different characteristics that are going to determine what hairstyle works best for you, crochet hairstyles, like the they usually use synthetic yeah. It'S usually synthetic you cornrow, the hair first and the the cornrows great, because instead of you know one braid pulling at the hair, you have one braid, but it's pulling along the entire length of the cornrow, so that tension is is distributed along a whole length of A cornrow, as opposed to a patch of hair crochet braids for traction, are going to be, are going to really be like a grade. A okay, very, very low traction inducing hairstyle, where, where crochet braids are going to hurt, are for women who are noticing breakage from dry hair. So if you're, one of these people, who you deep condition your hair in the next day, it feels like you did nothing. You'Re not going to want to do crochet braids, because all the ends of your hair are braided into the cornrow, so they're not accessible by even like a moisturizer and then many forms of crochet hair are very, very drying right. So it's not the kanekalon hair, and so it's going to pull away moisture, so you may notice that your your edges look okay, but you're getting a lot of breakage, and so in that respect, if you're someone who's really really dry hair. So this is really 4b. 4C and in my book i talk a lot about 4c plus hair right because 4c plus here we don't even see on the blogs right. I just see it in my clinic right. These are people with super super tight, curly hair. A lot of my patients who are like direct descendants, immigrants from africa, the caribbean - we see that 4c plus here i'd really have you stay away from crochet braids, because it's really going to cause a lot of breakage during the takedown process. Okay, so i'm not as familiar with the type of hair that is used for, like crochet or knotless braids or or what have you um are there. You mentioned the kanekalon hair. Is that the like the gold standard? Are there others that are better justice, janet jackson, original braid, hair brandy in the 90s? That'S the kanekalon, crochet braids are really variable. You can have some crochet hair, that's like kanekalon hair, but a lot of women. You know like this kind of marley hair. You know some people call it like marley braid, hair, where it looks like a twist out right. You do the crochet and it looks like a twist out and that hair it maintains a twist that formation. But to do so it's kind of like very, very dry and rough and what if people use, i don't think it's as common to use human hair for braids or these crochet styles. But i guess it is possible. I don't think it's as common um. I think we're using the synthetic hair really it's possible, but i think it's probably a lot more expensive and people end up doing like a weave or something like that, but is that type of hair? Is that going to have the same type of like drying effect that eventually breaks okay, great segway again so in weeds? Yes, so sew-in weaves um, so sew-in weaves, really mixed back sew-in weaves are going to cause traction alopecia right, so they're gon na they're gon na get knocked down a grade for that right, um, very, very classic cause of traction alopecia and then you know you could Sew your hair hair in multiple ways: if you're going to do a sew-in weave, it's going to be best. If you can do your cornrows horizontally, because the tr, the tension is going to go from here to here, as opposed to here to here, okay, um, and so that's one thing: if you have a net, the nice thing about a net is a net, is going To decrease the amount of tension, so you're going to be less likely to get traction but more likely to get that breakage because it's going to be harder to moisturize the ends of your hair, so sew-in weaves are a tough one, i'm going to give them an Overall grade of a b minus to a c um, they look great um, you know. Obviously they look very natural, especially if you have a good stylist who's putting them in, but because they can cause traction alopecia in many women who wear them and because it's hard to access the ends of your hair um, i'm gon na yeah knock them down and Peck for that yeah, you know we talked uh, we've talked before about dandruff and how to control dandruff, while you're wearing a protective styles, it's easier to control dandruff, while you're wearing box braids um than when you're. When you have a sew-in, i used to do sew-in. Weaves, like it was my job and then i remember, and i have a good hair stylist, but you know things can happen, so i had an issue where she took down a style. This is gone probably about like six or seven years ago, and she took it out, and i had like these little ball patches on the side and i was like wow. What are we gon na do and mind you? I was getting ready to be in a campaign for a hair company right, like i got like patches of hair missing, so we both looked at each other. He was like look just save side decide, so i just the i mean i did one of those like um undercuts yeah i mean i was the weave queen. Okay, i have long standing traction alopecia. Now, i'm losing my edges because i had a baby but yeah. Okay, but you know like i, was a sew-in queen right and then in the late 90s early 2000s. We were all doing it and that's why some of these newer styles came into place right, because people are looking for alternatives. That'S why crochet braids became more popular, not less bridge things like that alternatives, wigs, even right wigs when done the right way, um, because sew-ins are so damaging for so many of us did. I had to sew in them in january. Well december january, i had like a kinky curl kind of one. I only kept it in for maybe like three or four weeks, because after it was so big that, after a while i was like okay, i got like i can't see like i i'm gon na say you only kept it in three to four weeks. By the way like, if you keep in a cell in three to four weeks and actually be good, i do know women who can grow hair in a sew-in right. They keep it in for three to four weeks. They deep condition it every time. You know they're putting it in and at three to four weeks. It'S not gon na cause a ton of traction. It'S not you know their hair's still going to be moisturized a little bit from their previous, deep conditioning and so there's a a smart way to do it yeah, and i did like that one in particular, because it was very very similar. I have 4c hair. I would say that i'm probably somewhere, probably closer to high density. Well, my hairstylist is always telling me, like you, got the nerve to be tender, headed with all his hair right. Well, i just can't barely see because it's in a slick bag but um. I like that one because it matched my texture so much so when we had the leave out, i had to do very little manipulation to get it to match, whereas before when i would wear the straight weaves, i would often have first of all, i would have Like the little halo thing around here, where the hair around here would either broke off or wouldn't grow, and then all of the hair back here is like so much longer than the little parts here and then i would have like where the hair was like. Almost like uh thermally uh, what do you call it when you, yes thermally damaged from using the flat iron system? I just stopped doing it all together because like even though i don't wear my curls out often, i don't want to compromise them. So absolutely great idea and that's the thing is some people will do you know i i would live to this right. You have your sewing weave and your leave out's the most damaged part of your scalp right, you're, natural right. You braid all that up, but then the weave is straight and so you're flattering this every day and the hair is just this long forever right and then you can't even wear your hair, because this part's natural, this part's straight because it's been heated and so yes, It'S very complicated now speaking of wigs lace, front wigs and i would love to kind of get your perspective on whether the wig is glued down or like they're, using like the strap like the glueless kind of method, yeah, so glueless method, all the way. Okay lace, front: wigs um are very similar to some of the other styles that i've mentioned in that for people who, like they can be very, very protective right for people who are already suffering from thinning a thinning hairline. The wig can still pull out the hair. Even if you're not using glue, but certainly the glueless method is a lot uh is a lot safer. The other thing is if you're gon na do a wig, and you want to get the most bang for your buck as far as hair health. Take it off every day do a leave-in conditioner multiple times a week. You know have it in braids, but once every one to two weeks deep condition, it really take care of your hair underneath the wig and then it's amazing. Then it's an a right. What i find in my clinic is that you know people have the best of intentions when they start right, so they're wearing a wig, and maybe they are doing the leave-in conditioner deep conditioning. But then things get busy right and so then, instead of doing the takedown on a regular basis, the hair underneath i've had i've had seen. Women who've had the hair underneath braided under a wig for months, three four five six months and it's just a matted web of hair right. Don'T do that right! You really. If you take care of the hair underneath you can, your hair can really thrive with the lace yeah, with the glueless method, with glue glue will really can really really pull out your hair and very quickly, if you remember the stages of traction alopecia that i talked About with you before very quickly, you can go to stage three permanent traction alopecia that needs a hair transplant in just a matter of weeks right, especially if you get an allergic reaction to the glue. So you know the people like the glue because it feels more secure right if you live in chicago or something right, your wind is like one with the wind, like i got, ta do the glue. In that case, i just feel like a wig. Might not be your best styling option, um make sure it's glueless. It took me a while to transition to wearing wigs um, especially after wearing weaves for so long. I always just kind of felt that it was like. I don't know. This is not my thing, but now, like i love a wig because especially being on camera and what i do for a living. I don't have time to comb my hair. I don't even have time to comb my hair on my down time we're busy right, but one thing i have noticed, though, is um. I don't do. I have never done like the glue on my wig. I'Ve tried like the got to be spray and that didn't that lasted maybe like five minutes. Maybe i did it wrong. I don't know, but what i will say is that one thing that i was not cognizant of, because the wigs come sometimes with the little combs in the front and in the back now i started to have thinning here and i didn't realize it until it was Too late, i'm, like oh shoot, i'm not even clipping the the using the clip to clip my hair down, but it's still like rubbing up against here and breaking my hair. So i cut those out. So i you know my hair is kind of you know. It'S coming back over here, but one thing that i have noticed that well, i didn't notice it because i can't see back here, but my hairstylist noticed it uh last week when i went in to get a deep condition and everything that - and she said i've had It before where the hair was like breaking here. Yes on these two sides - and i was like i thought about it, because the first time it happened, i was like we didn't know what happened um. We were like - maybe it's stress, but this time i'm like i thought about them like wait. I wonder if it's because the back of the wig has like these bigger combs that i'm not using, but maybe that's rubbing up against it, and i sleep on my back with, like maybe sometimes the scar for the bonnet can be rubbing up against there yeah. So a lot of times i it's like, i speaking for myself. I can't speak for anyone else. I can get really complacent because i'm busy, i i'm trying to get things on camera right, i'm trying to do things on camera. I would love to wear my natural hair out, but to be able to get my natural hair ready for being on camera. I'M not gon na be able to push out the kind of content that i can, but for people listening, it's like you got to be cognizant of. You know things that you're doing it may seem harmless like. I wouldn't have thought that the the thing in the back would be cutting up my hair, but it's like i don't i don't sleep in a wig. I don't even wear a wig every day, yeah. Yet it still caused that issue and the other thing is is like for a lot of us. Our curl pattern's a little bit different in the back. Yes, so it dries out more easily and you're right. We'Re not you know, we're sleeping on it and things like that, and that can pull it out. So, even when you're doing everything right, this is a problem area yeah, and so i i will say you know before we, we sweat segway into our next styling. Your your hairstyle right now i'd absolutely give an a plus and and for people who are watching she did not run her hairstyle by me. You know she didn't ask me what to do, but i i saw this and i was like. I literally gave a talk at our national convention this weekend and i put up pictures of a bunch of different pers uh protective styles for dermatologists to see - and i was like this - these are bad. These are good and your style is one of the ones i did because you're you're natural right, your hair, is easily accessible right and it's you're able to add hair in without damaging it right. You have it in the back, it's not pulling at the front right. So you're getting that volume that a lot of us are looking for, but in a very healthy way right at the e. I don't know what you'll do after this talk, but presumably you could take that down very easily. You don't have to have a stylist. Do it because, and the reason it's important to do, styles that you can do at home is because it allows you to treat your hair whenever you need to right. If you go to a stylist and you get a style and only they can put it up and only they can take it down it just it, it kind of handcuffs you right, yeah, and so this is an a plus for tension. This is an a plus for moisture right, so this is a style where you can get a lot of growth so before we go to our next stop like if y'all get it. This is what you should be doing. Yes and one thing i'll add too, because normally i love, i love a middle part. Well, i love a middle part, but today i was like girl. Go to the side, go sweep it to the side. Another silly thing that i did years ago is: i had this phase where all i wore were turbines and at one point it was the turbines that were already tied yeah and there was one in particular. It was tight right here and it definitely left a little piece of like a little shrimp shop in there. It'S starting to come back a little bit with the minoxidil but um. But again you have to use the minoxidil always so you know every day, rather exactly it's, it's so hard for us with curly hair, because it is important for us to minimize daily grooming right. We, our hair, will thrive if our hands are off of it. So i love that you're going through this list because we do have to figure out. How can i style my hair, so my hands are not in it all the time right, because that's part of the equation to growing it and and this, but so many of the things that we do even when we have our best intentions, can still irritate the Scalp and pull things out, and so again like this, is it's you're doing a great service i feel like for the community. Thank you. Thank you. You listen you, i'm so glad that i went to that um skin of color society um virtual meeting, because i was like i've seen you before in person at events just before black kid, and i was very impressed, but you really, you really sold it to me During that meeting i was like she has to be on the channel all right. So let's talk about a couple of other styles, so twists yes and you're, talking about twists like twist outs or twists extensions um! Well, i i would think that twist extensions would be kind of similar to knotless braids. If you use the kinkle on hair exactly so like when people, sometimes they just twist their own hair and they leave it like that for a couple of days and then maybe they'll take it out. Yes - and i mean that's perfect right um, i will say as somebody with very low density hair that will never work for me, because i would look okay. You know, i think i use this term in our last. Talk ball head scallywag right like if you have low density hair, doing twists is not going to look voluminous, but if you have high density hair, it's actually a very cute protective style and the reason twist works so well is like you know, we talked about a Deep conditioner lasting wash wash, if you deep condition your hair, moisturize and part of when you're twisting you're putting another moisturizing cream on it. It actually keeps the moisture there, so your hair stays moisturized longer than someone who's wearing their hair more loose right so like let's say i'm natural right and i wearing my hair in a twist out for seven days. My hair is actually going to be drier than someone who's wearing a twist for seven days right and so overall over time, you're gon na get a lot less breakage and more length retention. So it's an ideal protective style. You could have your stylist do that it might last two weeks something like that yeah my stylist would have to do that because that's a lot for me. I'Ve done i've done it a couple of times in the past, but that's definitely something. I'M like gabby, hey girl. What about bantu knots? Yeah bantu knots are another, so for people who don't know bantu knots are when you twist your own hair, and then you wrap it, and then you just place that kind of wrapped knot onto the scalp. It'S a great protective style because it's protecting the ends of your hair right, so your ends are not subjected to the elements. The ends are the the driest part of your hair and that part of your hair that's prone to developing split ends and breakage. So it's really great for that. You want to make sure that when you're twisting it you're not twisting too tight right, because you can twist so tight around the hair like if, if you're putting in the bantu knot, it feels painful, then you got to take it down. But otherwise, if you're doing bantu knots with your own hair, also a great protective style, i'm going to assume wearing your hair in a bun can be similar to the ponytail yeah. In terms of your bun very, very similar, like you really want to make sure that it's loose like when i put my hair in a bun, you know i don't you know, make it super sleek right, which it means you're gon na lose. Some of that. You know effectiveness when we see buns on social media, um, they're, really really hot high, buns, very, very slick and sleek. I don't put any gel on it. Gel can actually dry out your hair over time and break the hair. So if you're gon na do a bun make sure it's very loose, don't make your ponytail too too tight a low bun is actually even better right. So when i go to work, i i really don't wear my hair like this at all. This is for youtube right. Do it low into the back, so it's not going to pull too too much on your hairline. I'Ve seen alcohol-free gels. Is that a better alternative? And honestly, you know what, even if you're natural, if you use cream and a butter and put that on your edges and then just put a scarf down 20 minutes. It'S going to sleek your hair back a little bit right. So if you can do that, as opposed to gel it'll help you in the long run, what about okay, so our last protective style, uh roller set so like rod sets um, i don't know what other kind of i guess people use like the difference. Yeah. Those are great, and so those are things that you're gon na do you know, presumably on wash day so, you're gon na have high levels of moisture in your hair and when you're putting those sets in you're actually kind of holding that formation together. It'S a good style to get you wash to wash. I like it mostly because it's low manipulation, your hands, are out of your hair, but you know, like i said: the twists are going to hold the moisture a little bit longer than something like a flexi rod set or a roller set um. But overall, all of these things get an a i realize i stopped giving grades out like twist might be like eight plus right. The rope flexi rod sets roller sets are still going to be in the a a range what you have going on here. That'S an a plus right, so we have a couple: a pluses, some a's buns, regardless of how you wear them, are still going to be in the a range right because we're not doing added hair, um and uh. So you're still going to minimize the amount of tension and then because you can take it down easily every night, you can still moisturize it. So you don't have to worry about breakage from moisture now a question that was related but not related to this. When you mentioned low density versus um high density, i think i already know the answer to the question, but i just want to ask it just so. You know we're clear with uh people watching. If you have low density hair, can you get to high density? Is there something you can do? Oh great yeah? So it's a great question, so you cannot increase the number of hairs that exist on your scalp. Okay, so part of it is predetermined already right. If you have, if you have like i'm gon na just make a simple one square centimeter of scalp and you have 10 openings, you were born with 10 openings per square centimeter. There'S nothing! That'S going to make you develop! 20 openings. Okay, so part of that is predetermined um, but can you make your hair look? Fuller? Yes, absolutely because if you're breaking your hair, then it's going to look less full over time right and so that's why women, who, who are naturally born with low density hair? They might have the 10 hairs per square centimeter as opposed to 20. You have to keep every hair that you have right, and so you cannot afford to get to lose a little through braids or sewing weaves or wigs that are kept on too long um. You have to retain all of them, so you have to have an ideal hair regimen protein conditioners. The reason i end up recommending protein conditioner so much is because the protein can plug in holes in along the hair. Shaft that make the hair looks thinner, and so the hair looks plumper between washes. So those are all things that are going to make the hair look, fuller, even shampoos. That say they are thickening shampoos. They actually do work. They work to increase the appearance of fuller hair, so you have to do a bunch of tricks right, you have to yeah, and then you have to do these things that are going to make the hair look fuller if you have low density, hair, okay - and these Are things that obviously aren't permanent? These are just kind of like temporary fixes, yeah and then also as we age, our hair becomes thinner. Okay, so you know, even though you have high density hair, i'm sure when you were a kid, your stylist was telling your mom. She need to pay double right. Her, you know, she's, like your daughter's hair, is so thick like you got it. I got ta up the price right and that's because when so we talked about the number of holes in the scalp that always stays the same as until the day we die right. But let's say when we're born. Our hair is three finger worse. You know in width, obviously it's not, but this is just for demonstration as we get older, our hormones slowly bring that down to two and then down to one right. Sometimes people will say gosh when i was five years old or when i was 10 years old. I couldn't even get a ponytail holder around right. I just couldn't do it now, i'm 35 and i can go around twice right and i'm doing everything the same and part of that is just aging. That happens too. That'S all right guys! Sorry, if your air is, is fine, there's some temporary things that you can do, but you're not going to be able to go from fine hair to you know very voluminous hair, naturally so permanently. Now, if you're someone who's, you you like, let's like there, are some people who don't even know how much density they have, because their hair has been broken for so long right, like they, their entire life they've had very broken hair because maybe they've braided their hair. Their entire life and they've never worn their hair out ever. I know people like that, and then they have an epiphany and they you know, minimize the protective styles they take care of their hair and then they're like. Oh, my god. My hair is actually really thick. That can happen, so your hair might be thicker than you realize. If you're someone who hasn't you know uh had like a healthy hair approach for most of your life, you may be surprised at how thick your hair actually can get. Listen. I told y'all she was gon na, be dropping them gems. I hope you were chatting. What did you learn from today's video make sure you don't forget to check out the description box, because i'm going to leave a link where you can pre-order dr ago's new book? 90 days to beautiful curly, hair, also information on where you can find dr agu on the internet, where she practices the other books that she's written some courses that she offers as well. All of that is going to be in the description box and for those of you who don't know where the description box is. You know i'm a little diagram to show you where the description box is here on youtube. You may need to get on your phone or your laptop or your computer, to get to it, but you won't want to get to it. Now i'm going to leave you here with two videos, the first being the first video that we did with dr agu, where she kind of politely told us that biotin doesn't work. Yeah watch that video for that tea. Also, i'm going to leave you with a video that we recently did on taking care of dry scalp, because what you might do in the oils you'll be using, maybe making the situation worse so check that out and i'll see you in my next one bye, guys

A J: I learned with my 4c low density hair, “protective” styles are not very protective and I need to just keep it natural! It’s something I’d been considering. This may push me further in that direction.

The Style and Beauty Doctor: HAPPY SATURDAY, Y'ALL! TIMESTAMPS: 0:00 Ain't protecting a DANG thing 1:14 How the protective styles are rated 2:43 Knotless braids 3:54 Box braids 6:02 Faux locs 8:17 Crochet braids & crochet hairstyles 11:18 Sew-in weaves 16:06 Wigs 21:11 MY protective style?!?! 24:25 Twists 26:04 Bantu knots 26:51 Buns 28:13 Roller sets 28:54 Grade recap of the last few 29:29 Low density vs high density (can you go from low to high?)

Chasity Moment: This was very insightful. I wear headband wigs and it has been a lifesaver. The hair density thing When I was consistently getting my hair styled they always said i had fine hair but it was high density and then I went through and experimental stage with my hair and it started to fall out and I had just resigned myself to being low density. I’ve been noticing it thickening back up recently and little hairs springing up. Here I thought it was these magical hair drops. I guess it’s from incorporating healthier hair practices. Just downloaded her book can’t wait to read it.

Venus-November85: This was educational and unexpected. I love to use a glueless wig but I always take it off at night - I can’t stand extra long hair on me all day . Danielle your hair is always . We need more of you two together loving the vibes

Nisa1971: Ok so my takeaway is wear your natural hair out when you can and condition frequently for the most part. You are still beautiful without the extensions queens!

HrhSophia TheFirst: Very informative. I wore weaves for about ten years pretty heavily and finally stopped when my edges dropped. Not a gradual process, went in for a relaxer the day of my anniversary party, got it wrapped to go. Dropped the wrap that evening and screamed Bloody Murder. Ten years later after trichologist and dermatologist visits I now have mid-back relaxed hair that I treat like the queen she is. I do no protective styles, deep condition every two weeks and keep my hands away from my hair. Good products, good techniques and good practices will work.

Kim C: I wore wigs that I took off everyday after work. I started REALLY taking care of my hair (4c/low po), and it has worked wonders. Even my curl pattern popped back in. Now I wear my hair out, and only wear a wig occasionally when I’m lazy, or just want a different style. I also rarely use heat on my hair, and only sleep on a silk pillowcase with no bonnet.

BB: Weaves did me dirty for yearsssss then I finally loc'ed my hair a couple of years ago and have been seeing my hair flourish at last. Danielle there is something really special about you because I watch every video you post even if it doesn't necessarily apply to me because your content is always sooooo phenomenal just like you. I want you to get a billion subscribers and views!

Pauline p: This video was EVERYTHING!! I love your videos, they always give me so much information!! I just started wearing wigs after my edges thinned after cornrows. I wear a silk stocking cap and satin wig band around my edges to protect them. I started deep conditioning every two weeks and use Jamaican black castor oil on my edges every day, so far so good.

Kathy Yearby: This was so informative and interesting. I used get crochet hair and sew-ins. But my hair didn't not do well. I have high porosity 3c-4b medium density. So my hair was dry dry.

Lea: My hair is high density 4bc but definitely on the finer side. I can't take harsh styles that it the way someone with coarser texture can, but it tends to look full, so I can pull off a twist-out maybe easier than someone who is low density. I love this conversation, we are definitely not one size fits all. I do best when it's moisturized and left tf alone but it's a challenge to find styles that let me do that. Sometimes a simple blowout works bc then I don't touch it at all. great video as usual

Andrea ASMR: So glad I started my microlocs April 2020, best hair decision ever!

CurvyJersey K: I am not going to cry. First, thank you both for creating this video. It is highly informative and God bless you both. I am a 2x cancer survivor. My tactic was to cornrow my hair and use virgin hair moisturizer, wild hair growth oil, etc. My stylist said to switch it up since I was thinning in the front from wearing wigs. I know now that they have satin wig caps which I plan to purchase. So I got a pony tail. Then I got the ponytail again. I noticed that i was in pain. My stylist took a picture and I have a bald spot in the middle of head. This is new to me. My edges are thin as well. I Just bought edge entitiy beause ppl are saying that it works. I am going back to my initial plan wigs and cornrows underneath then ponytails slick to the back instead. I really hope this works.

chanreka: Definitely preordering! I love when she is on because she is a wealth of knowledge. Thank you for sharing

IC: You really are a gem to our community. These videos are so insightful & well done

Donna C.: I also learned, those stocking cap underneath the wigs seems to dry out my hair and the band on the stocking cap could cause hair loss.

F LD: STANDING OVATION. One of your best videos. This was SUCH an IMPORTANT discussion. Hair health AND Beauty. WOW!!!! Thank you.

Victoria R: Low buns not always good neither…. You suppose to move your buns around and not keep putting the buns in the same area or place every time. Moving it to different places will help with less breakage

Jak h: This is so interesting. I don't do "protective styles". I go between a wash'n'go and a press out. Braids always seem like a waist of money because I would want them out soon as they get fuzzy. And think weaves are too expensive now. The cost of hair is crazy. Especially since I have my own hair

26unstoppable: This was so good & helpful! Thank you!

Priscilla Ajayi: Very informative video. I don't really know my type of hair but I remembered when I was much younger it was type 4c when I was still natural, I'm transitioning to a natural hair now (In my mid twenties). I have noticed over time that wigs are the only things that work for me, braids give me traction alopecia, sew in weaves gives me serious breakage. My hair is soft like wool and full but any manipulation makes me loose hair. My edges revert back to curls and are laid back after a month of applying relaxer. I run away from gels. I hope my natural hair grows faster though . Thank you for the great information in this video.

Theresa Rivera: This was great! I stopped wearing protective styles and just chopped my hair cuz personally I can't commit to long term protection so financially it didn't make sense to do anything with added hair. Even to do the ponytail I'd have to smooth this wild and free fro down and she don't do that without a fight so yea this is how I grow my hair now I have my twa and just let it be

Enila Naturals: Amazing information! I will try wigs and knotless braids...just been kind of scared to try wigs because my hair is so thick. I'm trying to grow my hair back where I've had some loss and trying to find low manipulation styles and it's not always easy. I know I can come to this channel and find good, solid info! You are appreciated!!!

Bare Noks: Wig clips did also break my hair and I thought I was crazy. Thank you for clearing that for me !

Your “Auntie” of Wealth and Money: Excellent content! I learned more about crochet braids which I like to wear but she says it may be drying for my type of hair. I think I When I wear them I will cut down to 3/4 weeks and do a deep conditioner. Thanks again❤️

masseiy: I think the protectiveness of a style depends on if you wash your hair while it’s in regularly AND it’s not too tight

Patience Orlando: Really enjoyed the video! A couple of suggestions. It would be great if you include in the title the name of your guests and also conclude their segments with some closing words from them. Thanks so much for all of your efforts. :)

Lolo Future: I have all the qualities that make retention difficult. 4c high porosity fine strands low density and for years all I did was braids and weaves. My hairline slowly retreating backwards. Now I do wigs and crochet for max 6 weeks. Even though I do glueless wigs the elastic band method was awful on my hairline! It never felt That tight but was tight enough to cause hair loss. Now my wigs are plop and go. But I also started relaxing because even with these styles my natural hair was not flourishing at all. So my next adventure is a Ginacurl because I want to wear my real hair out

AppleAmor: Tree braids from the 90’s/00’s ARE far healthier than crochet. (They look better too) A lot of hair can be broken when inserting the crochet hook and pulling large pieces of hair through base braids. Tree cornrows prevents all of this.

susiq1121: Danielle, you don't understand how you're saving edges...I have looked so far and so long for someone to help me find protective styles me my hair type. I always had fine, beautiful 4 type hair, but with my medication, I am now very, very fine. Thank you

Mony E: Thank you for having Dr Aguh again, I've had a situa tion where my hair dried out in corn rows and I had a lot of mid shaft breakage, i had to regrow my hair

ParalegalNfashion: Individual braids just thined my hair out. What got my hair midway down my back? 6 cornrows with no added hair. I waste it under wigs. Also, nets over my weaves with minimal leave out.

Kinara: This was an amazing interview! thankyou so much Danielle and Dr.Aguh! <3

Ashley ChiLLi: I have medium density hair. My crown and the very top of my head is quite dense and the sides as well as the back of my hair are a bit less dense. I looooove twists - my hair looks reasonably full in them. I’ve also done braids with no attachment and that style is more long lasting/less likely to cause a bit of matting as twists can do that if I don’t care for them well. Both styles have been working for me because I work out a lot and I still have access to my hair which means I can deep condition/wash etc. The twists look the best though!

Lakersha Olivarez: What a great video! I’m thinking about knotless braids because I’m going on vacation. But, I’m not keeping them in long because I suffer from migraines and can’t do tight on my big head.

1GoldenBreeze: I was waiting for Wash and Go styling. It's the style I use 90 - 95% of the time. Buns and updos are how I style the rest of the time. I don't have the patience for extensions of any kind because I've always felt that I can't take care of my hair properly with added hair attached to it.

linda v: learned so much. Thanks for the info. I hope more see this.

Tonya F: Great conversation. Definitely need this book.

Jennifer Blue: This was so informative! Thank you!

Theresa MW: The best way to keep your hair moisturized when you have braids is to wash your hair.

Owani Iroso: This is so true I wore braids off and on for the past 3 years either under my wig or box braids feeder braids at the end of the day I wind up having to cut all of it off because it was thin and damage on the front from all that pulling from now I just where 360 waves because it requires me to brush my hair twice a day a keep it moisturized and nothing is pulling on it I wore locks for several years when I was in my forties but now that I'm in my fifties I don't feel like being bothered and to get the 360 wave patterns requires patience and consistency it's not an easy style to rock but it's a easy style to care for.

Medline: Omg, ladies especially relaxed women should defiantly avoid the soft locs hairstyle!!!! Unfortunately, my hair got damaged by this style. I didn't know how to take it out and it resulted in me losing length in the middle of my hair. So I am currently taking a long break from protective styling to repair my hair. I thought I looked so great with the soft loc looks but taking it out was a major pain. I regret doing that style! Another learning lesson and I won't be doing protective styles anymore. I am sticking to good practices, only like deep conditioning, heatless hairstyles, and tucking my hair in a bun (switching the direction every few days).

cherishdeb: Hair that is thinner than a thread is fine hair....hair that is thicker than thread and is like wire is NOT fine hair. And yes there are many folks with fine 4c hair. My hair is dense but my strands are super delicate and can break easily.

Mariam Hashiru: Hey Danielle thanks for bring her on the show ❤️and I learned a lot. Regarding the the high density and low density am confused. I thought low density and high density deals with moisture retention but she was talking about how much hair opening there is on the scalp. Please can someone clarify?

V2B2010: Interesting videos! At 9:51-Wasn’t sure about the comment implying that ‘4c plus hair’ is seen more in immigrants from the Caribbean or Africa. I can’t speak personally for those from Africa. However, black people from the Caribbean have the same variety of hair types as those America. I didn’t have any problem with moisturizing my hair in crochet braids. Depending on the braid pattern, you can still have access to your ends. Love the format of this video

Lucy Lemmons: This was so good! Thank you!

Dorienne Ector: What about feed in braids? I have fine high density hair and wanted to get like 4 feed in cornrows but my edges are a bit thin so now I'm thinking this might not be the best option.

T156 T: ❤ this!!!! Have several questions that if you plan to do more follow up questions with Dr. Aguh. I'm an infophile! #1 wet styling vs dry styling (for twists/rollersets is it better to do on wet hair then air drying vs blow dried vs using a diffuser; also wash & gos) #2 when wearing hair in buns or ponytails (is releasing hair completely from the style better tension wise when sleeping but there is more manipulation to restyle later) #3 best hair tools (types of combs, brushes, hair ties, accessories and how they are designed & the materials they made of) Thank you for this! Thank you in advance if you any of the above suggestions!

nancykerrigan: Excellent video. Very informative. Needed this.

Lady Kingsrey: @7:32 That is why i am so thankful for the YT community ... before social media, I just knew that my fro was dry after braids and it will lock up...I would enjoy to hear more information about yarn braids too

Christine Ichoho: Thank you so much for this. Very informative.

Bianca Bent: This is super helpful!

Tiyya S: One thing I’m doing more intentional and making time for is my haircare. Stress in 2020/2021 really was tryna make me bald and we not doing that. I just live in twists so it is not about constant styles.

MrSincerity88: I’m a bald man but imma watch cause I just love you! Lol maybe I could’ve used a protective style to keep my hairline?

cherishdeb: Wigs are the best for your edges if you are glueless. Take the combs out and use a band instead. Oil the crap out of your edges.

Figure8: This was super useful

Mony E: I noticed that cotton like hair needs to be trimmed more often, and people with thicker hair strands can go months without a trim and still have healthy hair

Valentina Mattws: Amazing video, very eye opening

Kat H: Great content!!!!!!!

Oriana: Great video!!!! So much good information.

Joanna Severin-Nichol: Great video! One of your best. Keep it up.

Chasta Stokes: Love this conversation

G U: I’m surprised she gave buns an A+

Love Beauty: Hi, Personally I don't like so much to put for example box braids in my hair. I rather do it myself And braid then the hair only when I go on vacation. Because a found a lot of people who braided hair just pulling your hair out. But in the past I did on occasion some hair weave But when it come to this weave on my hair , I only let two people put that on my hair . (Because these two people didn't pull my hair out. But now they move to another country ,so I don't do that no more) I agree also on one thing is that I never use glue on my hair and I never found that good for the hair. And specially your scalp I rather put once in a time a wig on my head with just clips on it

Angela Martin: So you started to talk about aging hair … how do you care for it? I have noticed that I’ve had a lot of breakage. I have 3c to 4b hair. A real mix.

Mony E: I have cotton hair, not very soft , I have to moistirize a lot and keep low tension

Nickey-Ann Burke: yessssss for my knotless braids getting a good grade. phew

Rose Bruno: Such great information thanks

Christina J.: Your the best I needed this video as im going to Ball in two weeks time

Yahlove Wheso: Thanks for this info

Tracey Lennon: What about mildly relaxed hair?

a.d. W: Damn. My hair is 4a/b and feels like cotton. But I've always known my hair was sensitive. Crap. I mean. I already knew this but it sucks.

Francesca Celestin: I’m kind of curious about claw clips for a relax and natural hair?

Victoria R: To much protein can cause hair loss too

Ebizzill: my hair DOESNT like corn rows... it breaks easy. I gave up, I wear turbans nowadays, I might have midback hair or chin length hair. I dont know, im a bit over it.

Victoria R: What if you have more than one hair texture?

Ms_Smart_Ass2018: Seb dermatitis won't let me be great. Lol, I wear a u-part wig sewed down for two weeks. Sometimes redo or Ill do passion twists.

Tracey Lennon: I have Dr. Aguh's book!!

Shun Williams: Great video

AStarOz.: Pls someone direct or inform on what to do with after PREGNANCY HAIR LOSS and edge loss … do I start to grieve now

purplegal05: I wouldn’t give crochet an A for traction. I had to stop doing them because it pulled out all of my edges

Mimi Moon:

Jackyln Anyango: I love your skin

JONES2: that high bun looks kinda tight...

Sarah Wright: High density, fine hair 4 c plus can't do nutn

Be Forgiveness: Low density hair style

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