How To Layer Hair | Professional Hair Tutorial

Today we are going to be going over the modern, faucet um. I thought that was kind of a funny name, a play on the farrah fawcett we're going to do my version of that. Obviously i wasn't cutting hair when farrah fawcett was at her heyday. So i know what the haircut looks like, but this is going to be a modern twist on it, because i didn't do that haircut in the salon. But i know that it was very, very popular and layering. The octopus haircut, the butterfly haircut all these different names that are coming out nowadays, they kind of all branch off of what farrah fawcett's haircut was. It was a lot of layers around the face. She didn't have many layers in the back. That'S something we're going to change up a little bit today, because what makes it not modern is maybe a little bit of the shape of the haircut um, the way that it was so to modernize it we're going to change up the shape just a little bit, But we're going to keep that feeling of all those layers, all that face framing happening in the very front. I also want to keep the sectioning very simple for you guys, because i want these to be salon friendly haircuts. I don't want to over complicate them. So when you want to replicate it with your guests, it's simple it's easy and you can get them in and out of the chair so that you can obviously get more people in we're going to do some condensed cutting today. We'Re going to do some traveling guides. We'Re going to do some stationary guides, there's going to be everything packed into this haircut, so hope. You'Re excited, let's get started here. We go so basically the sectioning is going to be really simple: uh we're going to follow along with the fse haircutting system sectioning, so that basic sectioning from that we're going to separate right down the middle and then we're going to separate front and back so side To side front and back basically, four quadrants, but what we learned in beauty school was kind of four, even quadrants, and that's not how we think about things today. We think about things as in densities, so we want to have the same density in the back and we want to work with the same density in the front comb, her back we're going to work a center parting. So what i'm going to do is just comb. The hair get it moving in the direction that i'm going to part it. One of the key tips to getting a clean parting is to get the hair flowing in that direction. Then, when i go to stick the the point of the comb in as i go back, i don't get snagged up on anything because the hair is already flowing in that direction. So it makes it very simple for me to part the hair get a nice clean parting, and that is step number one to having a great haircut is making sure the sectioning is nice and clean and planned out before you start so there we go. We'Ve separated now side to side and now we're going to separate front from back i'm going to go from that high point of the crown down to the hairline. Let me comb this hair forward just like that. So you can see that we work that hairline up to the high crown, so it's just a straight vertical line all the way through i'm going to comb this hair forward and then we'll clip it away. Just like that, take my clip and i slide it right up underneath hold everything in place. So now we've separated front and back now we're going to do the same thing on the opposite side. Don'T settle on your sectioning if you don't get it the first time. Just redo it re-clean it up, it'll make the haircut go better, smoother, faster. Take your time on the sectioning and the cuddle go fast. There we go so now, we've separated front and back this whole haircut is going to be basically based in the front. I want to clip away the back a little bit about presentation right behind the chair, so just keep those clips in and now we're going to start to work in the front i'll. Take this clip out, i'm going to start on the left side. So i'll slide. Just clip down and just really keep that right side out of the way i'm going to be taking diagonal sections shifting each bit back and basically turning into diagonal back, so we're going to start diagonal forward. So it's going to be one two, three four sections back and bringing each section forward now in the traditional ferra faucet haircut. I believe everything would have been brought forward and pretty much cut in a line um all kind of at the same elevation, and we did that haircut quite a bit back when i first started cutting hair because side bangs were huge. We kind of brought everything to one point cut it, but it just made everything very heavy. So i want this line in the fair faucet haircut so or we'll call it. The modern faucet haircut this line right here is what we're going for. I want layering to happen so here's the line that we're going to create and then that line is going to open up into the face, so it'll flip kind of like that and open up her face so we're creating an open shape. We want the weight moving off of her face, so that's what we're focused on creating today. You also got to determine the length that you want this to start at, so i want it to open up right around between the the nose and the jawline. That'S where i want it to start opening up, so i take a diagonal forward parting at this point. Comb. The rest back take my section here, so i take this hair in my hand, i'm going to bring it forward to myself and i'm just going to give it a lift and bend. So i comb it across over top of the opposite eye. I want to see kind of where that's going to fall, i'm going to go a little bit longer here and i'm going to start my cut there. We go, i drop it down and you can kind of see how that's starting to kick already. So that's what i want to create. It'S going to fall like that, and it's going to kick out we're going to be working. That was our diagonal section there. Then. I pivot here pivot pivot, just bringing everything around and up to that point, but the pivoting is going to create a little extra over direction towards the tip of my finger towards the back part of the section. Sometimes we get a little obsessed with every little bit of a section. So what i mean by that is, you might notice that some of this hair - i didn't even cut on the bottom, i'm going to cut the bottom later and that's kind of a rule that i have in every haircut that i do so. I'M not really so worried about what the bottom hair is doing. I don't even mind not cutting that, because i, like saving that density for later, because that's the weakest point of somebody's haircut is this bottom. I don't feel like. I need to bring that entire bottom into this and cut it, because it's not going to have much to do with the end style, i'm going to go in and cut that line later. Just be aware of that, as you watch me lifting up each section, i may not bring everything in and that's a personal preference as i bring this up. My gut feeling is not to bring all that in so i comb all this hair over. I bring it up, cut it, but it's not totally connecting on the bottom. So now i pivot and we're going to work back so we're pretty much at a diagonal back following the round of the head. Bringing this hair around, i'm really leaving out a lot underneath. The round of the head, so as the head starts to round around, like this that's kind of where i take the hair from, is above that round a little bit below, but mostly above that round. The round is about right here this point and the edge of the eyebrow here. The parietal ridge is what we're talking about, and then all of this underneath i don't really need to cut into it, because i'm going to cut that later and your client might have too many layers, and this hair might not reach at this point, and that's okay, Too now i comb this down, and what does this do for us keeps the hair, nice and long, but look how weak it is in the density. We'Re gon na cut that a little bit to take out some of that weak length. If you had a client that had longer hair than this and denser hair than this, you could leave it long and have all these layers coming through it. But you can see this really nice face frame that we've started to create and once we blow that dry, it's going to be beautiful. Moving on, i want to grab a little piece for my guide comb, the rest away, because we are done with that and now let down the right side. Our sectioning is going to pivot the same as before, so we will work slight diagonal forward. Then we start moving to more diagonal back and following the round of the head, as you work around the head as i get towards the back of this section. So, if i'm here and i'm working back the reason, i'm pivoting and then becoming more with the round of the head, if i'm at a diagonal back line at this point, look how far this part of this section needs to come all the way around the head And up to the front, so it's coming all the way around here up to the front traveling way further than this part of the section and that's going to create length right. So i want to create that extra length and have that longer hair towards the bottom of the section. Now. The reason you take such a small guideline in the front is because, when i bring that up and around it's not going to look the same because the line is going to be different, it's cut to go the opposite way. So i really just want to use that as a reference as i bring this up and over like this, we're going to continue working through so from here to here. Combing that hair, bringing it around a good reference point, is bringing it basically to the edge of the eyebrow on the opposite side. But an important part of this cut is the twist of the hand because you're creating that little bit of extra layering in the face frame. These layers are going to really pop around the face. So now we got to work the back. So i'm going to take my clips out. This is a condensed cutting technique that i'm going to work because i've separated front and back i'm going to work lines across all the way down and bring them up over top of her head. So i'll come across and this i'm just going to point cut into so bring this hair up and over those of you that are really obsessed with using a guideline. You can always grab some hair from the front here. I'M going to eyeball it because i like to do that because i don't need them to match perfectly and i kind of know where that length is going to be that's about over the forehead, where i want to cut to blend this, to come back and fall Over so we'll bring it all forward like this and cut it point cut into it and i'll continue working down the head shape, bringing everything over top of it up to me like this, cutting a balance line, because my fingers are parallel with the wall. So i got a balanced line underneath here now. This is even wrapping further around the head: there's not even going to be much to cut as we move down see, there's not much in there point cut through point cut through. Why am i point cutting point? Cutting creates a soft line, a soft edge on your line, more texture. So it's going to help create that soft look you're not going to have kind of stacked, balanced layers. Where you see, every line in the haircut just creates a much softer effect and now we're going to blow her dry uh with a round brush and then i'm going to go in and i'm going to detail the baseline because i haven't even cut the baseline. Yet you can see how kind of soft and weak it is on a person with medium to high density, hair you're not going to have a soft line like this, but somebody that has finer hair you're, going to have a soft line like this and you're going To want to bring it up a little bit, i'm going to use neural lift another thing i'm going to do in this. Is i'm going to add a little bit of neural prime as well, because i just want to have a little bit more slip in the hair? This looks awesome. I honestly don't even really want to cut too much of the ends, because i feel, like people love this kind of longer, layered haircut, i'm just going to trim a little bit just hold this hair down a little bit. I would just cut it right on her back of the chair that just gets it a little bit. Fuller i'll have her tilt her head back a worked up spray and have her bring her head forward again and then so once she's like that, then i would just kind of bring that hair back forward and then finish it off with a little more spray and The biggest difference, what kind of modernizes this is that the back collapses a little bit more instead of it just getting big, because it would have been huge here. It collapses a little bit more because of the layering that we did in the front. So that just gives it a little bit more of a modern twist there's our modern faucet, so i hope you enjoyed that modern faucet haircut. I hope you take it right to the salon. Try it out. 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