Difficult Hairline Mastery

  • Posted on 28 August, 2022
  • Short Hair
  • By Anonymous

All right, all right, cool all right, we're back youtube. We figured it out just had to restart the program, but let's jump right back into this tutorial, so i'm first going in and jumping into the the frame portion of the hairline, i'm sorry the haircut steps. So this is a normal client of mine. There'S no need for me to do a full consultation, but typically that would be my first step is to make sure that we're on the same page, through my consultation, um again listening is the biggest part of the consultation. So understanding what they need, what they want if anything is going to change. This will be the one time you want to change something you want to change anything as well. This will be the one side. No, i know we're going to stick with the same cut. Um, but i think most thing, the most important thing that terence adds from from me is consistency. So that's what i'm going to be doing, y'all just showing y'all what i do to stay consistent and with his particular haircut. The number one thing is getting the frame together first, and what i mean by frame is because i am dealing with this hairline being a little more difficult. It'S not as easy to see i'm gon na go ahead and outline his hairline first all right. So i'm gon na show you what i do and how i go about that process. But if you're dealing with anybody who has a lighter hairline or hairline, that's not as dense. The best thing that you can do to help yourself out is to go ahead and set those parameters as your first step, so i'm just clearing some of the hair now just to get this out the way. But let me show you what i mean as far as clearing the hairline and uh, putting my frame on making me go back to the point of view. All right so can y'all see now where i'm at with this hairline. Let me bring it down a little bit too okay. So now i'm gon na go ahead and visually show y'all where i will put his hairline. So i typically don't do this before i start, but just to show y'all exactly what i'm looking at i'm going to go ahead and line up right here, bring this corner over and that's what i mean by framing it. So i'm gon na step in closer. So you can see even more exactly what i'm talking about so see. How right here in the corner is not as dense right. So i need to make sure that i i don't lose track of where this natural line is supposed to be. So as i go through with my trimmers, i'm gon na go ahead and set that line right now now this will not only save you from being confused and maybe lost on the back end on where to put it your client's hairline, but it also saves you Time you know when you have a lack of clarity. It definitely takes you longer to get through your haircut process because you spent a lot of time guessing or trying to remember where you left off. In this case now i put his hairline in there. I know exactly where i need to go back to in reference and i'm doing a ball taper on the side. So all this is going to be cleared out. I'M gon na go ahead and ball that right now, so we're going to go ahead and put up the three haircut steps that i go through on the screen, so we'll do consult, assess and frame. So again, i started with the frame portion first because of his hairline, because i needed to know exactly where i'm going. The first thing i did was put that frame on and because he's not a new client. I skipped the consultation process, but if he was new he would have told me that, like hey mike, i want you to make sure that you keep my hairline as natural as possible, but still keep it sharp. So we got to find that balance. So this is what i'm doing now in this corner about right there. This is the balance between sharp and natural. Let'S see how it gets thin right here, i'm not going to try to go up, i'm just going to go straight across and define where's the natural most consistent hairline would be put it right across there. So again, if y'all are checking in live with me, this is we can kind of consider this like a a one-on-one. So if you have any questions, this is the best time to ask them if you need some clarity on the steps or anything that i'm talking about, go ahead and ask it now in the chat - and this will be more like a consultation. If you, you have any questions, go ahead and ask for now, and what i'm doing here, i'm continuously combing his hair over the top of where this hairline is on, where i want this hairline to be. Now, though, this is not gon na be my last pass over his hairline. I still want to make it as easy, as i can for myself on the back end right so combing his hair. All over this hairline will put any hair that may be misplaced later, when he shampoos his hair. It will put it it'll make sure that his hairline stays as consistent as possible and again, i'm now coming standing in front of him checking for symmetry, and i do this by tilting his head up and down all right, and my outline is finished so again on This side, i'm doing the ball taper i'm going to go ahead and clear this all out. This will be a mid to high tint phase. So all this hair will be bald. I'M going to go ahead and set my first guideline right now. You saw when you guys first came on. You saw that i was going through and cleaning up the hairs around his ears and the hair on his beard that we're taking off, because i already have my trimmers in my hand. It just made sense for me to go ahead and take care of all those things at the same time, keeping in mind that i am so on the schedule. This is a live tutorial, but at the same time i still have a schedule. So i have to keep in mind punctuality. I know terence, don't want to be here so about 9 30 10 o'clock, so leia's not going to let him be here to 9 30 10 o'clock, so we still don't get him out in a reasonable amount of time. So what that means for you as a barber, is that you need to make sure that you're, maximizing and being i'm just not saying back so much but you're being as efficient as you possibly can, and part of that is making sure that you're maximizing the time That you're, using with every tool, fully maximizing the potential and the time that you have with that tools, meaning like there's no need for me to put these down and go back later, to cleaning this hair off. If i already have them in my hand, i'm not going to go through and give him a final line on his goatee, but clearing this all out now was taking some time on the back end. Okay, so the frame is done. His hairline is framed um. Now i can move more confidently around the fact that once i get to the final part of his haircut when i get down to actually really defining his line and adding enhancements, there's no guesswork once you start cutting off hair you're already making it thinner right, you're, Making it more light, so sometimes it can be really difficult to at that point, try to find where you need to be going right, you've already lightened up and you've erased. Most of your point of reference so doing this first is one of my keys to success with dealing with a difficult hairline, with a hairline that isn't as straightforward to to put on so that part's done - and this is my four guard. Let'S get around see, i can see a little bit better light there. We go all right, so this is my four guard again. This is the best guard and my go-to guard for for um, most kinky corally curly, hair textures. This four guard will keep it low, but still at a point where it can still maintain some curls. So, if your, if your client wants to have curls, this is the best length if they still want to keep it low and manageable and the longer your hair gets to like it yeah it may get curly, but then it becomes unmanageable right. It gets too long. Now it gets matted when you're sleeping so a four guard is kind of a go-to, especially for parents. But if anybody comes in my chair - and they don't know exactly where how long they want their hair to be, but they know they don't want it to be a lot of work to keep it to keep the curls in place and the poor guard. Now, one of the keys that i'd like to reference or think about when i am doing this part of the haircut and i'm really just de-bulking taking off the hair that i know i'm not going to be using right. My goal is to keep it even all over it. This doesn't mean that i have to use the same guard the entire time. It just means that the look needs to look like it's even all over. So in the front here with some of these thin spots, i have to do my best to make sure i fade around these thin spots a little bit right to make sure that they blend with the more dense hair around the area, and sometimes it's not as Straightforward as just going against the grain or with the grain, sometimes you have to go across the grain too right our hair. Sometimes we have multiple swirls. I know he has a swirl right here, a couple on the front hairline. So if i'm just going simply only against the grain and with the grain, then i'm not truly cutting it even all over. So this is the point where, if you're already going against the grain, you have a guard on you can trust that, no matter what direction you go, you're still safe, you don't have to spend a lot of time after you're done. Excuse me after you're done trying to okay. Well, i know this doesn't look even anymore, no go ahead and now in the beginning and go in every direction. Curly hair has a lot of texture to it, so, even if it is if it appears to be looking like it's all, laying in the same direction, oftentimes it's not, and sometimes the look of it won't necessarily give you everything. You need to know either right, because sometimes the sound you can just tell by the way it sounds. If i'm, if i'm done in this area, then this hair that i'm going over it won't make any more anymore noise right. So i can kind of use that as a reference, so you guys got any questions in the chat. Is anybody live in right now? We'Re definitely going to save this tutorial and put it on my ig on my instagram. I'M sorry, not my instagram. On my youtube page, but this is the time if you have any questions to go ahead and ask them now, it doesn't necessarily have to be only pertaining to this type of haircut. If you have any questions in general about this type of um about any kind of cutting, it gets any kind of fade. I use some of the same temp dot basic um steps. With all my fades. The steps i like to go through are clearing out both setting my weight line, setting my ball line and then fading between those two sections. So, whether that's a ball fade, temp fade shadow fade. If it's a fade, i'm still sticking to those same guidelines. I set my weight line, set my ball line. Then i fade between the two all right cool, all right. Now that that's done, i'm gon na do a slight taper on his hairline. I guess you would consider this somewhat of a shadow fade taper, but my goal is to just lay down this hair right here on this hairline, so i'm gon na grab my zero guard open it all the way and just flick right here at this headline. Careful not to take it up too high, because i don't want to change the look and the shape of this haircut, but to give his haircut longevity, the first part that's going to grow out will be his hairline. That'S the first part that will start to look messy. I just dropped the card, but it's good because i was done using it at the time anyway, all right, so here's my ball line. Here'S my weight line, i'm using a one, all the way, open and i say, wait line because i know that i don't want my fade to be taken up any higher than right here. So this is also like a secondary guideline. There'S a ball guy line in the way guideline, so here the same guard, one all the way open and i'm bringing it up to the bottom of his earlobe. So that's my reference point and if you're doing a mid taper, i would say mid to high taper the ear. Lobes is a great point of reference for you to look at and to consider whenever you're trying to find a place. To start your fades, not start your fade, i would say more in your fade. This is the point where you don't want to have it any higher. Most head shapes also have the occipital bone, and the occipital bone typically sits right around the bottom of the earlobe. So, as you see right here with him yep, it starts to sit right in here. So i know that, as i take my transition from the length on top to the faded section right through here, is right up right, underneath his occipital bone and that's where i can knock out some weight and that'll keep the fade and the haircut balance on his Head shape, if it sits too high, if it's sitting on top of the offset of the bone, then you've now done a completely different haircut. That'S more just a regular trade attempt phase should be always underneath his obstacle bone. Even a high temp fade should be underneath that bone. Don'T ask me how to spell it, but i can say it occipital bone you in the chat right now you um you graduated from barber school. I don't know a spelling was a part of it, but go ahead and type occipital bone in the chat. Turn off spell check, see i ain't cheating all right so now, i'm down to my zero guard, zero open. Now and again, i'm still working within the framework of this section right. So i have my top guideline now. I know i'm not going any higher than here really right. My goal is to fade this line out doesn't mean i have to take steps all the way up here to do so. So i'm now working in this bottom section and i'm gon na fade down. So i got my zero all the way open, how's the lighting with this um point of view cameramate. Is it okay all right? So now i'm all the way closed with the zero guard working down in my sections all right, so i was all the way open towards the top close towards the bottom, and now i can go halfway and be halfway in this section doing some point: cutting some Notching techniques cool, so now this bottom section is done. I'M gon na go now work on knocking out this top weight line, so i put it in with a one and a half. I'M gon na go with a two guard, all the way, open and just flick at this area. So i'm going up through that line and beveling my blade, my trimmer and my clipper all the way out all right. Let'S go too close same same technique all right. Let'S go back to my one and a half guard start all the way open all right, and that was all the way closed. So now i can switch to clipper overcome. So this will help save me some time, as i don't have to go back to my zero now that most of my fade is done. All i have to do now is just clean it up and polish the blend. I can do that with clip over cone. So i have my clippers all the way closed. My comb is going to act like my guard and i'm going to go through and attack any of the areas that i see. That may be just a little inconsistent. Maybe it just looks like it, maybe not as balanced as the other side, so i can knock that out using clip over comb keeping in mind that i want to maintain a 45 degree angle with my comb. So that's about like this. It'S pretty much a 45 degree angle, i'm also keeping in mind that i don't want to take this fade up any higher right, so i'm not going to try to take this blend all the way up here. All this right here is fine. I want his crayola to still be curly right right up into the point where it starts to blend all right: let's go back and do some more notching all the way open this time with my zero as i go lower in this section, i can close up And use the corner as i go higher, i have to make sure i open this blade up using this notching technique. Okay, so i had my zero guard on now. I need to fade behind the ear on this side right here on the on the hairline. Just flicking and knocking off this weight, this density, that's on his hairline again using clipper over comb. Definitely my secret weapon. Is this purple overcoming technique? It'S uh pretty it's my most versatile technique. It works on any density, any hair, any texture, all right so now. This is going back to my fade technique. This is my zero guard, all the way open. I have my ball line. I have my weight line. As i mentioned, when i'm doing a ball fade, temp fade shadow fade, i'm still working in two. I have two visual visual um things that i'm looking at right, i'm looking at the weight line, i'm looking at my ball line. If it's a shadow face on the ball line, it's just my bottom um my bottom line of reference, but with your fading, it still comes down to contrast. So, even if you are doing a shadow fade, you still want to take it down as much as you can, because a fade always looks best when there's a lot of contrast. Your job is just to blend and to make that contrast, look as smooth as possible, but that's what attracts somebody's eye when they look at your client's haircut. Is that contrast now? What makes it real is that if your fade is jacked up, that contrast is still going to attract that person's eye, so either way they're going to be looking, you may you got to make sure you put your best work in on display, so here i'm going Between open and closed and i'm just notching out these lines and clean out my blend section again, i have my bottom line and my top line as i'm notching through this section, i'm just using the corner and i'm going between open and closed. So when i'm closed, i'm working down here where this line was open, i'm up close top to where this top weight line is just going between open and closed open and closed. Now, after i do those two, if i still see that there's a little bit of um unevenness with this section of my blend, then i can go halfway all right. So top of my face going with my one and a half all the way open again trying to keep as much weight as i can because weight equals contrast. Contrast contrast is great for fades, so i'm all the way open right now now i'm closed, and i can go halfway just to make sure that's even and now back to no guard. I can just use the corners to knock out any piece of this blend right here that you may see. That'S a little inconsistent so see right in here back here to some spots. I can just use the corner of my blade and, if you can remember that's exactly where i put my top weight line so now, i'm just blending between the two sections again clip over calm is your best friend just going to smooth that out some more and That side's done back on this side, zero, open all the way closed and now i'm halfway. Alright! So no guard that to knock out this line. So i put this line in with my trimmers and i'm going to knock it out with my clippers, and this is possible because my clippers are pretty close to zero gap. So if you're familiar with blades, this is close to a five out blade, which means it's not quite ball, but it's right there all right, so i should be able to get out this ball line. With these clippers, you see how precise and um short my strokes are right here, i'm not flipping up and doing a lot. I'M working right on that ball line all right now, i'm halfway and all the way open and again just barely taking it up little by little slightly higher than where i was before. Okay, so this bottom section is pretty much done. I see some pieces that i can clean up, so let me go back to closed and just notch right here to do some clean up work again. Notching is the perfect perfect blade for cleanup work. If you ever see any issues with your blend or anything that you see, that may look a little awfully inconsistent using just the corner of your blade and just cutting through. That section is the perfect way to kind of slice up that weight right and smooth out your blend. I just went to the top side of my weight of my blend so back to my one and a half card, all the way open all right now, i'm all the way closed. Working back on this blend cool. My fate is pretty much done. This is still a really good fade, but to take it up to another level right to make it more clean, more of an ideal fade, i'm going to go ahead and brand that i'm going to go ahead and keep using that knocking technique, and that will continue To smooth out and make this fade even more blurry right using your notch, using the corner of your trim or your clippers and just notching at that line. Notching at that section, little by little will continue to refine your blend smooth it all the way out and the great thing about this technique is. It doesn't take a lot of time you can just hone in and zoom in on look at wherever you see inconsistencies and by just using the corner, you can attack those portions those pieces, one by one, all right, all the way, open and again remember in the Beginning guys, this is where i put that top weight line. So this is my point of reference right, i'm still clear. I still know where i'm at i know what guard i'm supposed to be using because i set boundaries all right, clip over comb cool, all right that says the hairline gon na knock out some of the density right there, a little bit of weight right there on The line again, i want his hairline to look as balanced as possible, not just with the line itself, but with the hair that's sitting over the top of it. So let me put on my let's find my zero guard put on my zero guard thin this side out a little bit right here. Take some weight out even do a little clip-over calm with this technique as well again. Clip over comb is your best friend, most versatile technique. 45 degree angle boom. Even on this side, it's a little heavy right here. Remember i told you guys in the beginning that it has a little bit of uh lightness right here and it's way more dense on this side right here in front of that, so i can do clipboard overcome to balance that out some. This is the part where i don't want contrast. I don't want contrast on these areas where his hair is a little thinner. I do want contrast with the blend, so i want people's eyes to be focused in on the blend, not on the light spots. So i reduce contrast where i don't want you to look all right guys. That is the tutorial. I'M gon na go ahead and end the live at this point, because i've already demonstrated what it takes to balance out a difficult hairline. So my first step was to set my frame as my very beginning, most important step. I know where his hairline is when he first comes in in the shop, so i use my my barber pencil just to show you visually what i usually look at. So i put my frame in, i went ahead and drew it in, but if they're coming in and it's been maybe a week or two there shouldn't be a need for you to use the pencil all that hair should still be already be there. So you go through put that line in first and then go through your face steps after you go through your face steps now, you're ready to polish this hair cut up right. The fade is in place. I just got ta line them up now. All right, stylus hair, give them give this curls a little bit of shine. Definitely gon na be using the ideal hair care curling wave cream. You know what i'm saying quick plug, but now that his hairline is in place. My job is now done like i'm working downhill at this point, so this is pretty much it guys. This is how you deal with a difficult hairline. It'S all about contrast right. I want to reduce contrast where i don't want people's eyes to look, and i want to increase contrast with my fades and where i want the fade section to be so after i finish this haircut all the way we'll go ahead and um record another quick video To show you what it looks like all the way done, but for the sake of time, i'm gon na go ahead and end here, but thanks again y'all for tuning in to our deal barbara's youtube page. If you have any questions, please leave it in the comment section and uh yeah we'll be back next week. Another tutorial all right: y'all peace,

Really The Barber: I really appreciate your help and time my brother. You’re definitely opening my eyes

Earthwalker Est: Ideal quick question, the fine hairs in the corner of one's head that seem to thin out and leave you looking like your hairline is receding.. does shaving all your hair off help with that ?

Oluseyi Lawal: Nice video bro. Thank you

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