#1017 - Why Is There No Universal Standard For Hairstylists?

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Hey everyone. It'S me narada africa, hair guide, i'm here to just do this quick little video to have a brief discussion on why there doesn't seem to be a universal standard between hair stylist in our industry today. Um this video is in response to a comment that i received from a viewer on my community post yesterday, where i was basically uh sharing my luck, client and her three year anniversary, and also touching on my approach to lock care and how it differs from what A lot of people say is necessary for healthy locks, and they were basically just saying venting their frustration, um about how you can ask different hairstylists the same question, and they will all give you different answers, and it just seems really difficult to be able to decipher. Determine and distinguish which is good information, bad information, which person is knowledgeable, which one is misinformed and they made the comparison to doctors in medicine, lawyers in law and other fields of study like that and i think, with hair stylist and cosmetology. When i speak to hairstyles, i'm speaking specifically to licensed professionals, i'm not talking about braiders, because they're in their own little field, i'm talking about licensed professionals, who's gone to school, who study cosmetology theory. This is who i'm referring to okay um with professional la cosmetologists um. We all go to um some type of beauty school. We study cosmetology theory, and that should be enough for us to have the same understanding of hair. Should it not like that's what they do with doctors, that's what they do with lawyers and everything else. So why is it so different for hairstyles, and this is a question i asked myself a few years into uh my profession as a licensed cosmetologist and at first i couldn't figure out why and later on a few years with more experience and understanding. I just kind of grew to understand that um it a lot of it has to do with the fact that hair is not only a science, but it's also an art form, and that's something that we tend to forget about. Hair is art. Beauty is art. What we do as hairstylist is an art form and when you talk about art, there's no universal standard for art, art is what you make of it. Art is how you interpret it. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder um, so it's based upon perception and one's own personal understanding um. While there is a level of science to doing hair, i think that a lot of stylists tend to place more value and emphasize more of the art than they do the signs um. We see this all the time with braiders or hairstylists that will do whatever they can to cover up damage and make it look pretty or they'll do styles that cause a lot of damage, but look beautiful like um, you know really small braids along the hairline. It does doesn't have enough natural hair to support the weight things like that um and it makes sense in our society because we live in a social media. Um short attention span society where we want instant gratification. So whatever you do, whatever you post, it has to grab people's attention and people don't want to sit there and take the time to learn about all the nuances and intricacies about hair care. But they will sit there and appreciate and like beautiful hair or a beautiful woman or a beautiful man, and when we talk about the beauty industry, that's really what it's all about that and capitalism, but that's a whole nother ballgame that i'll get into another time. So um i wanted to just expand on how we, as hairstylists, can evolve and change into our own unique approaches to hair, even though we all have a singular foundation, that is cosmetology theory. The cosmetology theory is the universal um accepted principles of hair science and hair care. However, all of us hairstyles seem to have a different approach. If you ask me, my approach with natural hair care, it'll be different from black girl. Curls it'll be different from jennifer rose. Nyc it'll be different from sindal it'll, be different from damien watch is different for everybody. How is this possible when we all understand the same cosmetology principles and theories? I believe that this happens, because when we go to beauty school and we study these uh these principles in cosmetology theory um, they are literally just giving us the foundation for us developing into our own professional cosmetologists, and so it's not completely fleshed out a lot of What we do as cosmetologists and our approach in our perspective is based on the inference off of cosmetology theory. So what is inference inference is how a person interprets information and draws their own conclusion based upon that. So we all understand the concept. The basic concept of processing, which is that hair, is processed hair's ability to absorb and receive moisture. Now that's as far as my uh understanding, the porosity goes all this with the the protein and how much protein you use when you need to do it and all of that i've never read that i've never seen that. I'M not saying it's not out there. I ain't saying there ain't studies for i'm just saying that, with all the cosmetology textbooks and things that i've read, i have not seen it. I don't know where everybody and all these hairstyles are getting all these rules and stuff for piracy from i don't know, but that is just an example of how you take an inch and you run a mile with it, and i i just haven't seen that so I can't i can't verify or say that yeah, if you have high porosity, then you definitely need to use more protein treatments to keep your hair healthy like for the most part um, i approach, i don't hair type people's hair based on porosity um. I don't hair type people's hair based on the curl pattern. I adjust my approach to hair care with each client as an individual, so i don't treat every client exactly the same. Now i do have a general approach that tends to work across the board, such as using hair grease. Now a lot of stylists out there. Black girl, curls jennifer, rose, nyc uh, i'm pretty sure cindel uh. Maybe damian wants to uh there's a lot of hairstylist out there that are against the use of heavy oils. Heavy butters heavy greases petroleum mineral oil. All of that, but the reason why i use it - and i continue to use it - is because it's the only product that i've been able to use across the board with all of my clients that gives great results. I'Ve tried, i went to beauty school. I'Ve used all the professional lines and all the creams and the custards and the treatments and things, and when i realized that they were all just watered down, creams and and and lotions and stuff, and it wasn't really retaining moisture as well as hair grease. Did. I just naturally gravitate more towards hair grease yeah. It is a bit uh, old-fashioned um, you know times have changed. We have so many products on the market, so many products on the shelves for natural hair. However, for me nothing, nothing has worked better than hair grease. Like my clients can get their styles and literally don't have to fool or touch their hair for like two weeks minimum. They might mist it with water, they might apply a little oil, but outside of that, they don't have to do nothing to it. Unlike doing a wash and go where you know your washing go last like five days a week, maybe two of you know how to do it stretch it right, but like it's just different and even with the concept of like hair cutting. I remember we watched a video on last week's watch party on crowdcast, where we watched this uh black woman get a rezzo cut um and we looked at the cut and the stylus time of some. It'S like cutting roses. You got to cut circles, gather the roses in the bouquet and cut, and i'm sitting there looking like this cut is hideous. These layers is all over the place her hair is shaggy like there is no shape to her hair, it's just a little hot mess, but to that client, that's exactly what she wanted. She was pleased with what she got and that's, okay. She that's what she wanted and that's another aspect of this conversation too. There are different clients for different styles, like clients, look for different things out of their hairstyles every client they claim. I want healthy hair. I want my hair to grow. I want to be healthy. Everybody isn't like that. I learned that early on, in my years of doing hair, where we got, we literally received negative reviews. We received um negative responses from people when we were literally looking out for their best interests for the health of their hair, like the fact that i'm sitting here arguing with you about what's best for your hair, because you just want to look good. But you don't want your hair to be good. It says a lot and i realized that early on that we're we're just not i'm not the stylist, we're not the salon for every client out there. That'S why i don't market myself that way. I don't market myself for everyone that has natural hair, because everyone that has natural hair isn't a client for me. Some people with natural hair, don't like their natural hair, don't like twist, don't like braids, don't like updos, don't like cna scalp, don't like they big. I can go down the list, don't like they big for it, like it's, so many different things that i don't have to deal with as a hairstylist, because they would just rather go and get something else and that's, okay. You know what i'm saying like the way that stylist the reso cut stylus did that woman's hair. It was a choppy hot mess to me, but that's me, but to that client it was the greatest cut and color she ever had and she was grateful and appreciative of it and that's why hair styling is so different to each stylist, because it's art to that To that client that was beautiful art to me, that was a hot mess and in essence that's really what it's all about, um, it's just how we all interpret it, how we all develop as hair, stylists, um and also too um i'll, make one last point, and Then um out in this video, even with the the cosmetology concepts and with with the inference that we use to shape ourselves as stylists and grow and evolve um. We just interpret things differently even with, like i remember, cinda she's, a big proponent of uh, dry, hair detangling, and she swears up and down that this is going to reduce breakage help. You retain length and be healthier for your hair and this, and that and her reasoning behind that. I can see why she believes and thinks that her reasoning behind that is based on the chemical bonds in the hair and the concept that hair is weakest when wet and i've done a video talking about um the misconception about hair being weakest when wet in terms Of natural hair, because the concept is true, however, if you don't understand the intricate nuances of these cosmetology, can't even say it right. If you don't understand the intricate nuances of these cosmetology concepts, i mean: let's face a cis, didn't even know what a hydrogen bond was. She thought they were just floating all over the place. If you don't understand the intricate nuances of these things, you will draw like the most incorrect misinformed ill-informed conclusion based on that cosmetology concept. So her reasoning behind dry detangling is that hair is weak as we went, because when your hair is with the hydrogen bonds are open. The salt bonds are open as well, because the ph is adjusted due to the water and also your disulfide bonds. Your disulfide bonds are intact. However, we have to also remember that syndal is a huge proponent and is accustomed to doing straight, hair and relaxed hair. A lot of heat heat train naturals, their hair is compromised. Their disulfide bonds are compromised from excessive heat, also relaxed hair. Their hair is compromised. The disulfide bonds are compromised from the use of the chemicals that break down those bonds. So you have to think about it. When you have relaxed hair, that's wet, the hydrogen bonds are open, the salt bonds are open and your disulfide bonds are compromised. That'S one third of your hair strength, so yeah. It makes sense for you to not dry comb and brush wet relaxed hair, because your [ __ ] will snap and break but for natural hair our hair has the well, i won't say our hair, but generally speaking, textured highly textured, coily kinky natural hair has the Most disulfide bonds in any other texture of hair, and because of that, our hair is more resilient when wet then of straighter textures and of compromised textures with chemicals. So that's that's why that concept, even though, is true, because two of your bonds are open. However, disulfide bonds account for one third of your hair strength. It'S still able to retain its strength and shape, even while being wet and being wet, is better for natural hair, because it allows for more elasticity, more stretch and pull when you're tugging and separating coils and curls um. So yeah. I didn't even mean to get that deep into that, but i just i i really want y'all to be able to see just how how we as cosmetologists, interpret cosmetology theories so differently and between that and between cosmetology being an art form. That is why there's no universal standard for hairstyles there's a standard for safety and infection control procedures, as opposed as it comes as it includes sorry, i'm getting sometime as it includes applying chemicals, applying heat all the things that damages your hair, everything that damages your hair There there's a universal uh standard for that um, not necessarily with natural hair, which i do feel and believe that natural hair should be regulated with uh licensure. I do believe that um, because we have a lot of people doing natural hair, [ __ ] their hair up. We got a lot of braiders out here: [ __ ] people's heads up, snatching out edges, making people receive alopecia and everything else. So yes, they do need to be licensed as well like that's the only way that we are going to be able to hold both um licensed dollars, accountable and also these braiders, because how can you sue somebody for getting braids and them taking out your hair when You expect them to be the expert in braiding and they take out your hair and there's no law that says they're responsible for that um. For for these, for these braiders to be charging what they charging and for them to be jacking people's heads like that yeah. They they have to be held accountable and at first i was like i don't like state board, i feel like they just trying to suck money out of us and yeah. They i mean in essence they are, they are we got to pay for our license? We got to pay, for you, know: um, continuing education classes and things like that, but i mean it's all capitalism at the end of the day. But yes, and if we're going to do that, then we also need to hold stylus accountable. Let me know what y'all think about that and let me know what y'all have to say in regards to this discussion of this topic. I look forward to hearing what you all have to say and thank you so much for watching. Um i'll see you on the next one all right be blessed:

Very KinkyCurl: Idk how others feel, but that’s why I flocked to you. You come with substantial evidence on whatever the topics maybe regarding hair care and are able to back them up. Rather you agree or disagree. I respect/appreciate the facts you spit and giving us your opinions as well. It’s like a teacher, not all teachers can teach. Not all teachers will be received by every student (I learned that the hard way in highschool/college). When you break down things I tend to understand them because it’s spoken clearly and I am able to visualize it. Example, when you did that graph of your hair strands years ago, showing us the health of them over time and why it is important to keep track of what you are putting in your hair product wise and lifestyle. I understood that. When it comes to hair grease, I live by it. My hair loves grease. Grease helps manage my hair and keeps it moisturized. Those cream and custard don’t do the trick because my hair will suck that up and say “ok what else ya got fa me” . Yes, grease is ol’skool, but everything new isn’t always better. Great vid Narada. I like content like this.

Barbie: Interesting discussion. Bottom line, folks are making it up as they go along. Natural hair is a new frontier for money making. To me it's like the diet industry. Every year a new diet and book comes put telling us something else we can't eat. Nevermind people have been eating said thing for centuries. I think people see result from doing or not doing something and jump to a conclusion without considering all the factors. Foam and gel is good for a wash and go, but what if I'm getting my hair braided? I always take what stylist say with a grain of salt. Pick what I think makes sense and leave the rest.

Katherine Miller: That was a very thoughtful discussion. It helps me understand why it’s so difficult to find a “good” natural hair stylist. It’s imperative to have a consultation that involves a conversation between the client and the stylist so the client knows what they’re dealing with.

V2B2010: Great video! I do wish the haircare industry can get to a point where people doing braids etc do need to have a licensed background of caring for hair. I love how you and Henny have designed your business in a way that attracts and retains the right clients that appreciate all that you have to offer

Ebonie Exotic Beads: Thank you so much for this❤❤❤❣When you said "Where they getting these rules- because you ain't seen it in the books" I do feel like something needs to be done about this- especially for the younger girls/boys who looking at cosmos expecting them to know what they talking about- while also understanding it's an ART; Yeah Cyn says dry detangle, an JenNYC says add shampoo before adding water... we can go on and on about other's specifics- I always try to get the meat and spit out the bones by taking info that don't sit with me and go from there- but I just wish things were more uniformed... or maybe cosmos not knocking and demonizing other options/techniques when its just- as you said an ART- with no specific right or wrong... I started growing my hair a couple years ago from pixie cuts and I've fallen in love with hair I'm semi thinking about going to school for it myself- but it's like wtf I can just not go to school and just say some shit and be good lol IJS

Bri Sea: The whole thing is just a hot mess, I actually cut all my hair off because I got tired of trying salon, after salon, after salon. Cut my hair off, never went back and never will, because now I’m just out here sexy with my easy short hair. I even went back to a hair salon after I cut all my hair off thinking it would be a much easier, more pleasant process since I had short hair now, and no it was not, it was still a hot mess.

1GoldenBreeze: What you said makes perfect sense. When I think about how students can read the same text and understand it differently or not at all it's very clear. It happens all the time in study groups we're covering the same material but not everyone gets the same understanding.

Taryn Michelle: There is a Natural Hair Care Specialist License but it's dumb. We technically can't "style" hair, such as wash n goes, twistouts, perm rod sets. We can't color (or cut in NC) but we can flat iron. It makes no sense. And the state board test only test for 4 techniques. French braid, extension to cornrow, extension to box braid (no knotless), and sew in weft.

Anita Cuff: Thanks for sharing. I appreciate it and I like how you explain what you're talking about. I'm new to your channel I have watched several videos where you have shared your techniques and I'm loving the hair knowledge you share. Take care and be blessed

Valerie Murray: Thank you for this video very helpful.❤️

Monica M: My favorite stylist in Nashville is old school and simple. When I moved to DC it got complicated so I went back to a TWA. Finally found someone who fits my lifestyle and I’m happier, but I’d go back to my old school stylist in Nashville in a heartbeat

Sandy Sunshine: Remember video responses back when YouTube was cool? Lol I would like to see hairstylists respond/speak on this topic

SpeakingofMeesh: Great perspective!! Thank you so much for this video!!!

iKandi: I don’t get the comparison between the medical/legal field and cosmetology. The education and training is no where as long. I think you hit it on the head (no pun intended), cosmetology is definitely art & science!

Very KinkyCurl: Just missed it I’ll rewatch

Fatimah Davis: Nice discussion

Loxena: 9:54 : fun shade

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