The Truth About Where Hair Extensions Come From | Shady | Refinery29

This week on Shady, our host, Lexy Lebsack, takes us into the underground world of human hair trafficking. Wigs and extensions are often made of real human hair, but have you ever questioned how that hair was sourced? Watch this episode of Shady to learn where hair really comes from!

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Shady is the side of the beauty world you haven't seen. Hosted by Refinery29 Senior Beauty Editor, Lexy Lebsack, the series swivels between the unexpected and uplifting, dives deep into the dark underbelly of beauty, gives a voice to those trampled by this quickly growing industry, and questions what it’s all worth. From counterfeit makeup to skin trafficking for cosmetic procedures, we go there.

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This is the hackle. Respect the hackle.. This is Merria. She’s, a master wig maker, whose skill and expertise has made her a celebrity favorite.. This is what they do after they cut it off the ponytail to get that shorter, hair out.. She painstakingly sews each wig by hand in a process that can take months to complete and cost as much as fifteen thousand dollars. Close it off, and then there you go. And how you tie it, determines the way the hair flows and falls and parts.. She knows everything there is to know about hair, except for one thing.. Where does most of the hair being sold in the industry? Come from, I try to source from people who I know where it’s coming from, but I don’t know. As Refinery29’s senior beauty. Editor I’ve been on set for dozens of shoots and interviewed hundreds of hair stylists.. Nearly everyone of their kits holds the same things flat, irons, curling, irons, brushes product and hair., But Hollywood’s best kept secret is far from new.. Both Black and Orthodox Jewish communities have openly worn hair for generations., But it’s. Just now that the popularity has exploded into the mainstream. Celebrities have opened up on social media, about wearing human hair, revealing just how common wigs and extensions are on the red carpet and in everyday life.. Extensions have really pushed the hair trade. Up. People want things that are disposable.; They just want long hair today and that’s that. There’s something intimate and uncanny about wearing the hair of another person.. It can transform the way you look, but at what cost Close your eyes., I couldn’t help, but wonder who this hair once belonged. To. It's difficult to trace the origin of much of the hair on the market.. It'S no surprise because the hair trade has always been shady. For centuries. Hair brokers have used any means necessary to get their hands on hair.. In the 1800’s peasant, women in France were lured into being shorn like sheep.. In the early 1900’s, it was reported that hair sold in the states was coming from sewers and corpses in China. Hair dealers were thought to be so shady. They were banned from Ellis Island. Controversy continued into the 21st century, as reported by CNN.. She lost eight inches of hair. From the robbers perspective, it’s, quick and relatively easy money.. One constant in all of this is that the hair trade sets up shop wherever women are the most disenfranchised. And the people who end up wearing the hair are often unaware of the journey it took to get to them.. Most people do not know where their hair comes from. And I don’t think they care. Riqua Hailes, the founder of a hair extension salon in Los Angeles, didn’t, particularly care either.. Until she got scammed., I had already lost ten thousand dollars. I couldn’t afford to lose any more.. They had these great pictures that tell you how it was going to perform. They sell you on a dream. That’s the issue with it. Riqua went on a hair, buying trip to try and get some answers.. We want to know if all the hair in Malaysia is really coming from Malaysia.. She travelled across six countries and found the lack of regulation in America and around the world makes it hard to guarantee what you’re getting. Push it push it push it. There you go.. Oh, it fried the hair., It fried the hair.. I can smell it., It smells like .... What is that is that burnt hair, Or is that plastic? That’S plastic. Plastic. Mixed with what’s known as fallen hair. It’s, the cheapest tier of human hair, collected from salon floors. Hairbrushes and drains., The hair is detangled processed with chemicals coated with silicon, and sometimes mixed with synthetic and animal hair., While okay for some uses it’s a less expensive version of a higher quality, more elusive hair virgin remy., So everybody is secretive about where their hair actually Comes from. That’s where the hair broker makes his money. Remy. Remy. Remy., Passing off non-remy hair as a remy is just one of the many tactics of hair dealers.. Where do you get your hair from now? I get my hair from India. Widely considered to be one of the most ethical places to source hair. Hindu temples are a crucial part of the industry. Every year. Millions of devout followers travel to temples like this one., The Shri Venkateswara Temple in the southern state of Andhra, Pradesh. It’s, the most visited Hindu temple in the world and perhaps the most lucrative. Here devotees shave their hair as an offering to the Gods, which becomes an Easy revenue source for the temple bringing in more than seven million dollars per year.. It'S a practice that provides a constant supply of cheap high quality hair.. But it's not for everyone. For some matching specific textures and colors is worth paying top dollar for. Blond, red, wavy coyly., The more niche the hair is the more expensive and harder it is to source making this type of hair. Prime for exploitation.. After months of back and forth, only one of them agreed to show us their operation.. We set out to Vietnam to meet him.. Vietnam is in a moment of major transition. With one of the fastest growing economies in Asia. It'S growth is a mix of opportunity and exploitation. Hair sellers here have been known to offer women next to nothing for their hair or offer them what sounds like a good rate only to disappear before payment., Even though Dan agreed to meet us. I still had no idea what to expect or how legitimate his operation would be. Hi Hi. The way other companies operate. Everything is gon na be under the radar.. Some of the women that we've bought hair from they have been scammed, before. We're trying to be different than everybody. Else. Dan's mission is to make his company Remy New York, one of the first ethical and totally transparent companies on the market.. These are gon na to be our dyed hairs., So we do have different varieties.. This is so exciting. Different, colors., Yeah., Really cool. And you have short ones: too. Sure.. So if a girl were to come to you and want to cut her hair, but she had short hair, you would still buy it. Of course. Okay. Yeah. We try not to turn away anybody. Just because everybody needs help.. So this one is gon na be one of our long ones.. This one is pure virgin remy.. You can feel the softness of it. In my six years in the beauty industry, I had never seen hair like this.. Oh my gosh. This is so long. This level of high quality hair isn't something you can fake. And as soon as I saw Dan's hair, I knew he was doing something right., But he invited us out to see for ourselves. Dan travels across the region to buy hair in person And at a fair rate. Here in the countryside, having long hair is still an important sign of femininity. Hi.. How are you For Nguyen Thi Thuy? It'S a promise of a better future.. Will you miss your long hair? That'S like actually criminal.. It hits home that the hair trade starts with women like Thuy.. Behind many of these wigs and extensions is a woman making the tough choice to sell her hair to better her life. Dan zip ties, Thuy's hair to avoid tangling and to keep it all. In the same direction after it's been cut., It looks beautiful., I think it looks beautiful.. You look young and fresh and really pretty.. Will you tell her that You do. Yeah.? How are you feeling Dan paid Thuy a little over a hundred dollars.? The money is more than a month's worth of living expenses for her entire family. Enough to buy livestock that will bring in new income stream for years to come.. Dan'S rates are not only unheard of; they have the potential to change lives.. It'S a mission Dan's taking across the country. From a woman who wants to use the money to put her son through swim lessons for the first time to another who needs to pay for books and tuition at school next semester. And even a woman who wants to Advance herself through the trade. - You know there's no shortage of hair companies in the world., But there's no companies that want to make a difference that want to change lives.. The reason why I'm doing this is because I know that nobody else will and nobody else has., While it's still the early days for Dan's company. A lot of eyes are on him to see. If Remy New York can be a new standard within the industry.. What does an ethical supply chain for hair? Look like It's sort of looks like fair trade. - This guy in Vietnam he's transparent and the girls are getting something in return. That'S extremely valuable.! You have to make an effort to understand where the hair coming from.. Do your research. Make sure that the women it's coming from are getting a wage.? I think that's how change happens. Hair can be more empowering than we ever thought possible. For the women who wear it and those who use it to create businesses that enrich their communities.. But also for the women who sell it to better their lives and the lives of their families., A fair trade, transparent supply chain can leave everyone better off.. That is if the industry allows it and the customers demand it. Thanks for watching Refinery29., For more videos like this click here and to subscribe click here,

Refinery29: What topic would you guys like to see on Shady next? Comment below!

Michell Rodriguez: He didn’t take advantage and cut extra short he left enough for them to still feel beautiful this is heart warming he deserves our support <3

Mistress Chief: When I heard he paid her over hundred dollars I almost cried. This man is an Angel.

Iyanu, Ayoade: How can you offer a human being $3 for their hair, that's cruel. I can't stop crying. That's inhumane. Wishing Dan all the best and may be be protected from this sick industry.

Monique Lorica: I donated my 10 inches hair to Hair For Hope, a local organization in the Philippines that provides wigs to children with cancer and others who suffer from hair loss. ❤️

TJ Taylor: I've been so impressed by Dan's ethics and compassion for others. His business will grow exponentially.

Ida B: He could easily cut her hair from upper level, but he didn’t HE DIDN’T. He gave her a proper hairstyle, a beautiful one, he payed her a fair amount. He is an awesome awesome human being, a man who proves you don’t need to be an asshole to become successful in beauty industry

AquariiLinh: Me who is Vietnamese: I don’t need subtitles I understand! Btw people! I am Vietnamese and a lot of people say that $100 for hair is bad but $100 dollars there can get you a lot of things from what I know from my mom $100 there is counted as 2 Million dollars so please stop saying it’s a bad deal because it’s worth a lot there. (I hope I am saying it right)

Scarlet_Strawberries: The woman who was paying for swim lessons for her son got me tearing up. It's the little things that we do that are so sweet for our children. The man buying their hair is a beautiful soul for sure!

Stacie Reynolds: The first lady looked so pretty with her shorter hair. I almost cried because she did, but after seeing the respectful way the guy cut her hair and treated her, I felt proud for her. Another woman, doing what she had to do to sustain her family.

Whosabi: Its so sad that poverty leads you to do these kind of things, even though hair will grow out back but everyone has an emotional attachment to his/her hair. It breaks my heart to see the lady sad at 7:50

Jess009: I literally had chills when that lovely lady was told that with her short hair she looked "young, fresh and really pretty" her reaction was soooo sweet.

Carolina: I know they probably do this for survival but as someone with aggressive Androgenetic Alopecia I wish they had any idea how many sick women they are helping. True angels.

ᴍɪxᴇᴅ ᴊᴀᴡɴ: He is so SO lovely. I'm so happy to see this. Dan is such a AWESOME human being. I hope he gets the recognition that he deserves; such a kind soul.

dreamer: 9:45 Her shy smile put me in a great mood. Despite the hard times, she has a smile on her face!

Stranger in this world: Dan is example of an amazing human being. If only everyone was like him

welp.: after he cuts their hair he gives them a cute little hairstyle im glad we have people like this

Gloria Vazquez: Thank you to Dan for his excellent business ethics, for helping others and for setting a righteous standard.

Elisia's Evolution: Collected from drains?? I've had enough of wearing wigs and weaves, I didn't really know where it was coming from until I looked into it, But I have locs now, I'm nearly a year into my journey, I made a video about it on my channel. But this video has taught me even more....

Jody Vollmer: Bravo to him for being ethical and giving these women something for their hair!

Stanley McGeneral: Never thought I'd be watching a video about hair trade, much less be super impressed by the reporting, and the good Dan Choi is doing. Great job Lexy. Your story is giving us hope for the future of real journalism.

sophie zhao: The girl who sold her hair for books and tuition looks so happy to finally have enough money to get proper school supplies and I’m really happy for her!

Supartlu: It’s not even about me but this almost brought me to tears to think about, I’m honestly really lucky to be able to grow long hair freely and not worry about having to cut it off to pay off bills etc.

Lu & CocoaCry: As someone who once donated their hair, I think it is a beautiful cause. When I was six, or seven I donated ten inches of my hair. I’ve always had extremely thick, and long hair. I use horse shampoo to help wash it now.

Julz: Omg this brought tears to my eyes. I can’t imagine the sadness these women feel just selling their hair to make a living

rmeows: And that's why I donate my hair to organizations such as Locks of Love and Wigs for Kids where they make wigs for kids with conditions (alopecia, chemo, etc.) instead of snotty celebrities with "hair closets" that they rarely use.

FoolyLiving: The richest people make the most money and get the biggest benefit from POOR people. This will never change.

i steal kneecaps: 9:33 her reaction after she said that was so sweet i’m gonna cry

Ananda Smith-Witter: God bless Dan for his kind heart for looking to bless other lives than his own.

Audio 21: I'm from India and I live very close to this Tirupati Balaji temple she mentioned this made me feel super proud ❤️

slezzy: shout out to dan! he truly is doing an amazing job at not only profiting himself but also being kind and helping people in need

fullsun_lovestay: the fact that he treated the woman's hair with respect really warmed my heart and the woman's reaction to the girl saying she looked beautiful was seriously heart warming

no plans please: spiritually hair is seen as antennas and or memory of the life lessons, a typical braid is folded in with the energy of mind body and spirit. I love the connection i feel to my hair and can't imagine wearing the hair of an other. what it does to your subtle bodies must be interesting i guess

Gumdrop: This video was so heartwarming to watch, and it’s nice knowing there are people like that out there who genuinely care for others

Seo Yeon Jang: It's nice to see videos like this. I am glad that both parties are happy with the trade and how ethical the man is. It's heart warming to see how happy the girl is as she can provide for her and her family. Thank you!

anaya johnson: Oh wow!! I had no idea where the hair that i buy comes from or how much of an impact women have on others yet they will never meet. What these women go through and the reasons that they agree to do this is just inspiring. Very informative. Would looooooooove to learn more and go in depth about this way of live.

Princess Virrey: So can we please blow up Dan's Company?? Hair should ONLY be bought and sold this way. He's helping himself by helping others. That's true success.

Pattie Bell: It makes me happy how you changing these family lives ❤️ thank you thank you.... please continue your work!! 2 and 3 Dollars is nothing, look how it changed her life tremendously when she was given 100 dollars!! Now she can do great things and provide for her family....

Shraddha Sarode: Dan is an amazing man, talented and has a great vision. Making a difference

Asmita Ghorai: "It can transform the way you look ..but at what cost?" That's what the world is about, otherworldly truths.

Oteka Macklin: The "lace front craze" in L.A. is unreal. All I can say is, it must be very important because I've heard about folks placing this at the top of their priority list. This was an informative video.

Thandi Nkwandla: We need more people like this guy...I got emotional seeing him cutting the hair in such a caring, respectful and dignified manner. May his business grow from strength to strength.

Beth Novak: Thank you for your video. I had no idea. I hope that this industry can become more transparent and to help those that sell their hair. My son had thick long hair during college and he went to cut it for his first professional job and the salon said they would donate it so that wigs could be made for cancer survivors. I wonder if that is where it went or if it was made into extensions.

Kai Lin: this is my favorite video on youtube, I am so deeply touched by what Refinery29 is doing and I really hope that the Shady series continues. I love the interviewer and all of these genuine human beings in this video.

Cassie Farrawell: I'm sobbing. I'm literally sobbing. Dan is amazing

Sophie: Can we just take a moment for how beautiful Nguyen looks with short hair?!! It really suits her

Alx N: It's like getting a haricut but the hair dresser pays YOU.

Princess Neiqa: He is a genuine man and cares about clients and he will continue to grow due to that honest living.

Judie Crawford: I think he is doing something great. God bless him.

Jho Poison: thuy is so beautiful. i hope she can sustain herself and her entire family <3

a r friedman: Very interesting story. I always wondered where real hair came from. At least Dan seems to try to do the right thing. I hope he succeeds.

Astriqxx: This women is very sweet, you could see the pain in her eyes when she said “I’m going to be very sad after cutting it” and then smiles . And how she covered her face in her hair when the lady said she looked pretty

Danielle M: Good Job Dan! I love when people use their passion to help others

Mariana Riascos: These are the types of videos that everyone should see! It is truly important to know the reality behind the things you buy because you might be able to make a difference❤️

Sanchana: Such a human being like him existing in this world is itself so hopeful and makes us believe that the world is not entirely messed up ....Huge love and respect sir !!...Thank you for keeping my belief in humanity still alive!

Simplified Versions of Healing and Motivation 🌻: The very concept of making another human being feel valuable is healing to the world! We all have values to offer. One way or another we’re all worthy. I love human beings who see the values in others and who chooses to honor that value, instead of taking disadvantage of it. Cheers for Michael and cheers for the beautiful women who are blessed with beautiful hair

Cookie Unicorn: I actually cried after the First Lady said that she’s scared of cutting her hair. It’s so awful how people are scamming these ladies by only giving them $2-3 and I was so happy that she was receiving $100+

Lynn Little: My hair is starting to thin out, will definitely buy my first extension from Remy New York

Phileas Cattermole: I feel for the ladies and this guy is such an amazing person. ❤️❤️❤️

Lahaina Stylez: I commend Dan so much!!! He's Amazing!!! Much Respect & Appreciation all the way from Maui Hawai'i

Ann McNeal: They want that “ white” hair— they even say it’s their own.

GG: the saddest part is that the celebrities don't care about this

FumLove: I got tears in my eyes Fortunately I need no hair extension and I actually abuse my hair, but these women love their hair so much. I really want all the people who purchase hair to consider these women’s precious spirit on their hairs.

deborah vaughan: Thank you for this video. I'm so glad he started this movement. These ladies did actually look younger after the cut.

Micki Jewel: Bless him! Hair is a very emotional subject.

Mykah Shalom: I love this guy, such an honourable person

The Wise Ducky: Now this, THIS is the thing that YouTube should be putting on the Trending tab, not expose or apology videos.

LB: Everybody wins with Dan! I love that he is such a good and honest man who wants to help these women and their families.

ngina L'interno: I am watching alone in my house but I couldn’t help but applaud Danny. Bravo. For you I would pay the Remy price!

Linda Samsonar Gísla: I wish there were more people like Ben! He shows the women respect in a way so few do. <3 Thanks for making these videos.

Whitney1202: We need more people like him! If I could afford his hair I would totally use him for my business! God bless him. I'm here for his business

StrqRen: That ending was surprisingly wholesome! I hope you're doing well Dan

Teddy Raffudeen: Great video. informative.Enjoyable. And offers a scintillating depth and perspective about a subject I never hitherto considered.The narrator also needs to be complimented.Thank you.

Torie Torreano: I would actually do business with him. I would actually go into business with him. What an ethical man! I love it!

ari!?!?: Seeing Vietnam, my parent’s homeland, makes me feel proud :D

NaturallyNellzy: This was such a wonderful documentary. I never really questioned where all this hair comes from

Annika E: Dear Dan, I fucking love what you o and how you make an impact. <3

Rori: Those people look so happy, and its heart warming.

Karen Morris: That was very informative thank you so much I never thought about How little people were paid for their hair. God bless him for trying to do something right by those women

Gretchen Wellington: Your awesome Dan! Way to make a difference in the world! Many Blessings

Tammie Jones: I don’t wear weaves but I’m so glad to see that this guy is honest and the ladies can have some dignity selling their hair.

Th3Snipe: Never thought about wigs and where the hair comes from. To see families thrive on just selling their hair makes me happy. I hope more companies like his start to gain attention.

Imke Lucius: I’ve donated my hair to a local organization to help make wigs for people with cancer or other diseases where the hair falls out. It never occurred to me people are being exploited over their hair. I am not that attached to my hair, but I can’t imagine what I would do if someone would steal and exploit my hair.

Connor Medina: Just wow and how ethical that man is. Love it!

Jamuna Priya Music: Bless your heart Dan for your ethical ways! Just starting seeing your videos Refinery 29 and I'm loving your channel. Subscribed

Mariam H: This man is a great person. He could have cut her hair very short to her neckline but didnt and left some her for her femininity and dignity and didnt cute it very choppy and ugly but took the time to actually make it look nice. He treated the womens hair with respect and gave them a fair amount of money and wants to help change the world and help families who are struggling!

Lucy Terrier: $100 for beautiful hair that's sold for $15,000? That's highway robbery!

Eeman Fatima: This man better go big! He is honest and being the good person for so many family. Giving money back in for the treasure they give!

Nadeen black: Dan is a good man with a heart of gold...I hope he reaches all of his dreams...much love

Melanie Cadavid: I'm happy a video like this exists because I know people and family members that got their hair stolen. The person would be walking down the road and just get her hair yanked down and cut in a manner of seconds. If you fight back it could get even more dangerous. So when I went to visit they told me to attach my hair tightly if I was going outside. Even a walk around the block could potentially be dangerous. In my family we put all our time into taking care of our long curly/straight hair so it feels bad to tie it all up just to protect it from the world that you wanted to show it too.

MinaSchokolade: If I wanted to buy another humans hair, I would want to make sure it's fair trade. Wearing someones hair that was mugged from their head while sleeping is beyond creepy.

Therapissed: The topic was discussed in Chris Rock’s “Good Hair” film but I am so glad it was addressed again more recently by Refinery29. I think putting more pressure on celebrities who wear weaves/wigs obtained unethically, regardless of whether they knew or not, and who could use their platform to end this form of exploitation is the way to go. Not knowing isn’t good enough if reporters are making the effort to inform them. They have an obligation to find out and to care.

Guest Account: I hope that man succeeds beyond imaginable. That really touch my heart ❤️ how he pays these women and help them. Those people who offer $2/$3 is heartless and greedy. REFINERY 29..... I would love to see more video of him!!!

Dragonish Dame: I'm so glad that you guys are doing what you can to share these things with the world.

AJ: Dan is doing such a wonderful thing. Good man.

Brother EZASOMO: This man is very fair, and treats his clients humanly. Kudos to him.

{Rïshîkå Rãñī}: I literally started crying after watching those poor women cutting their soft long hair for their daily lives and important needs especially for Nguyen Thu Thuy

Jhyacintho Corner: Good for him! And I am glad he is paying a fair price after knowing the price people paid for wigs these days

Almost Clint Newton: My mum had three bundles of human hair weave in her drawer, I thought about getting a sew in so I took them out of the package, washed and blow-dried it to look at. I saw that it behaved like REAL human hair and instantly got thrown into an existential crisis because it belonged to a real person/real people. If I ever do get extensions it's going to be high quality synthetic that matches my texture. Wearing someone else hair on your head is such a strange concept especially when it's complete strangers. That Remy guy really is a saint in a world of scumbags

D: I felt depressed about my hair loss and was looking into wigs, I ended up on this video and learned a lot. At first I thought I would never wear a wig after watching this, but after thinking about it I guess I should support ethical companies instead of the exploitative companies. Dan is a good guy, he's probably running that business at a loss. I want to support him. In an ideal world nobody would have to sell their hair (or blood/plasma, or prized possessions) to survive but until we live in that world we'll just have to support fair trade and minimise the evil

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