Highlighting Chunky Bangs And Hair

I'M so excited i'm here with my model emily and my good friend, nora, hey guys, who's our global artiste. We are so excited because it's rare that we get a virgin client in our chair right. We love a virgin, but when we do it's like huh, unicorn, right, they're, so rare, so emily has a natural level. Six. So take a look at that. Routage take a look at her mid shaft and her ends. She has a lot of hair as you can see, but it is, you know a level six and we want to bring contour highlight movement contrast. Yes, you need the dark to see the light. Today, i'm going to show you one of my favorite techniques that i've been doing for years. It'S called stardust because you just dust it on the hair and it's kind of like a star pattern. Are you ready to get started? Let'S do it. We are gon na use magnum eight. I love the consistency. Let'S do a good 60 grams, just because 60 is a good nice round number. I also want to share with you guys i am debuting. My man pony this is a debut. This is a big deal. Okay, i've had short spiky hair for years i had a mustache and goatee for years and everyone freaked out when i shaved my face. I was like oh grow, your facial hair back because you need to look like a man like a wait. What i don't look like a man unless i have facial hair, it's a thing. It'S a thing. I know shocking right, but i i go. You know what i want to grow, my hair long, because i want to have long hair and i just want to permit - and i just want to, and now you realize it's a lot of work for those of us that do have long hair. It is a lot really quick. I just wanted to point out. I used 30 volume, um dedicated developer, one to two ratio and now we're gon na add some magic. Yes, the guy tang, my identity, my hero, collagen powder, x, booster. This is important guys. You add this into everything: it ensures that you know we don't cause any dimash. The thing is that, obviously we have amazing products. We have amazing techniques, it's also how we mix the developer, but it's also nice to know we're going in with a seat belt. A condom a shield so since we have 60 grams of lightener, we're gon na go boom, two scoops and i love that it does not change the consistency of the product. Absolutely it's exactly as it is. You wouldn't even know it's there. It'S like an invisible shield. There invisible shield - yes, i love that visible shield when we're doing a back combing technique. What i like to do is use our new, my thick body, texture spray, it's a bulking spray, so i'm just going to spray this on. This is one of my favorite things to use when doing a back combing technique on anyone who has very slippery hair. So i'm going to divide emily's hair into four quadrants, starting at the apex, which is the top of her head and then we're gon na divide. The parietal out of the way and nora is gon na clip that out of our way, okay and then divide the back in half, there's multiple ways to do this. Sometimes i do this as i go. I find that it's easier if i start doing a zigzag as i go in and just clip it out the way, so it keeps everything cleaner. So you can trace your pattern. So what i do with the pick of my comb i'll start here and i go very deep - you almost draw into the scalp so that way we have some highlights going through, so this will be considered the natural that falls over the highlights. So this is what i'm talking about you're using the highlights to create. You know almost like motion and contour. Less is more. You don't want to over highlight the hair, because, if you over highlight everything it'll be too much, so we're going to clip that out the way. That'S the piece that we won't be highlighting, we'll be highlighting everything under here, and i want you guys to see the zigzag section. So look at her her scalp here you can see the zigzag pattern and then, when i lift this up, i want to mimic the same zigzag that i have above and you can use this technique for balayaging as well, but this one we're going to use it For backcombing foils, because we want the highest contrast as possible. You don't want to highlight everything, because if you highlight the bottom and the top, it's overly done leave the bottom natural leave the top veil natural. So it's almost like a sandwich, so i'm actually going to turn this away because for once in my life i just want to showcase my left side, which is my good side all right. So you can see she doesn't have much layers. So the situation is, this section would be way too thick. So what i want to do is you can either choose to divide it into two: let's try to do it with just one cushion of the go and see what happened so i'm going to elevate the hair up 180 hold on to the length right. So so anything that's shorter can get pushed back and notice how you're holding it with your two fingers and you're not pinching it together. It remains one flat panel exactly and this is how you push any short pieces back and then now i'm going to hold it at a 45 degree angle, and just do one more push. So the key is it's just one push you see your hair, the section is a lot finer, so you get to see through it and this is a key point to get even highlights and lift inside internally. So i had nora paint on the long foil and we're gon na put the hair right on it like a flat panel and with our amazing rose gold brushes. You guys, which has a jagged bristle, helps me feather the product onto the hair, and you guys. I we did choose to use 30 volume because it's away from their scalp the routage, which is where she has a lot of heat. So this is considered the cold shaft area. So it's not going to get as much like. It'S not scary, as you think, a 30 volume is not scary. So, that's why, like you know oftentimes when we do highlights near the scalp like a baby light, we usually do 10 or 20 volume, but when it's off the scalp, you have to think about how your um, you need a little bit more power. But you see how easy that is. We only have four so literally one two, three four per section and you're done with the whole back section of her head. It'S that easy and everything's already been clipped out the way. So you get to see her zigzag here. See that this zigzag ensures that you have no demarcation line. This is why i always opt to use the backcombing technique. I know there's so many other techniques that have come about with blow dryers and all these things, but this has always been my go-to because it works it's easier, faster, faster, yes, long, foil. If you get any roping just use your comb. It slightly pass right through that hair and it allows the hair to lay flat to the foil, we're going to spin her back. So you guys get to see how we finish off her back. Okay, what i like to do just for incubation purposes, just so it almost become like her head, becomes like a sauna. If you will trap the heat in because now all of the length is extending so far from her body and what i hate is when it's cold down here and i'll say like, why is the ends yellow and everything up here is white. You know what i'm talking about absolutely. We need to use her natural body heat to create the warmth, to give us that lift. We need the incubation, so i could definitely feel the foil being cold down here. So it's going to clip that up out the way and put a bag underneath to just trap, all the heat inside. So now that's one side: i'm gon na grab another bag. I'M gon na put a bag over her head, okay hold on, and would you say that if they don't want to do this, if, like the hair is too long or heavy, they could use a heat lamp and just try to hover from a distance? You could use a heat lamp um as well. If you have that. I love that. But in this situation we don't have a heat wave here. We don't we don't so i'm going to use her own body heat, and this is my favorite way of doing things. You guys, you don't understand if you're working in a salon situation where there's like vents like air conditioner like shooting, right down the hair, you're not going to be able to get lift and performance, just make sure that everything in proper room temperature - it's not too cold. Don'T let your client go outside and you know, do a little cigarette in the snow because i've i've seen that, where they're outside in the cold, it's like girl, you're not going to get blonde like that? Okay, so you can see that she has a very fringe type of situation and it's hard to foil this, because the hair is a lot shorter, it's hard to back comb, it so remember to use my thick body, okay, this is going to give texture to the Hair, you don't want to over, highlight this and you don't want to ignore it either because you have all these highlights everywhere. Developing you have this like little helmet of a bang to collapse right in the forehead and you're like there's no dimension there, there's no movement! You have to connect it somehow, and this is the way you're gon na connect it so you're gon na do little zigzags up on top to create its own little sandwich. If you will so, this is gon na spread out and diffuse everything. Okay. So when you get in close here to your scalp, you can see the zigzag sectioning in her hair. So i'm going to work off of the zigzag and remember you want to keep a little bit of the dark hair underneath here too, so don't highlight that otherwise her forehead will blend in with her hair. She needs depth. Otherwise, you have blonde bangs on top of forehead. Obviously it's like it looks like her forehead's like a six head, i'm gon na pack magnum eight onto her ends and with the amount of product i'm just gon na feather it up yay we're done we're gon na. Let her process for 45 minutes. Don'T you move a nipple hair and we'll be back. It'S been 45 minutes and we're gon na pull out her foils to see how light she's gotten whoa. Look at that gorgeous see that's what i'm saying it doesn't even need to be toned. It'S so perfect, you're right, it's so perfect, the same exact color from roots to ends all right, so we actually blow dry emily's hair. So you get to see how beautiful and how light her ends got. So take a look at those ends and take a look at how, when she turns to the side, how that color blends from having that veil that comes over and just going inside that sandwich to create that internal highlight, is so beautiful. Now the fringe part you can see, i took a risk. I want to make sure that we had blonde in there. So there's a little bit of subtle demarcation just in through there, but i took that risk because i was like oh, is it enough? Is it not enough, but i know i could shallow route it in with our express toner right. So that being said, this is an amazing time for me to talk about our flavoration. Actually, this is a great time to talk about how perfectly lifted she is. So take a look at the swatch page back here. This is the underlying pigment swatch, so you can see that she lifted past yellow and she hit a level 10.. So you can see right there. Her ends hit a level 10.. I want to show you guys a little bit of our flavoration we're gon na go in with i'm gon na use sandstorm all right. So this is full concentration. It has a pigment of level nine. So, that's why i choose to put right here to diffuse her fringe, just right there near the routage area and then on the rest of her hair. I'M gon na use our pearl, so pearl mixed with crystal clear now crystal clear. Keep in mind guys crystal clear is no pigment. This is crystal clear right here on the ends, so it's going to shear out that pearl that you see right in through here that pearl. So that way it will soften the color, so it doesn't go too dark. It'S going to neutralize a little bit of the warmth, so remember anytime, you're neutralizing a color. It will always appear a little bit darker because it's a cooler tone. You guys we're going to go in with sandstorm. First all right. So i'm going to use half of this tube okay, so we're gon na go in with 30 grams and of course, one to two ratio of six volume, dedicated developer and the way i mix this guys is for every 30 gram of color i'll put one scoop Of the my hero, collagen x, protective booster in now, keep this in mind that it's not how much color with the developer that are mixed together is how much color from the tube we're not calculating the development developer. Right, don't include the developer because i know math. It gets a little crazy, like i'm horrible, with math, but for me i know i you know what someone said. I posted that i'm horrible at math and i said but you're asian, i'm like oh that's a stereotype, they're gon na stereotype me. So i'm supposed to be good at math, but that's a good stereotype yeah, but there's other bad ones that come with it and i like to like go no, that's not true. Okay, but we'll take the good ones all right same way, so make sure you put one scoop of my hero, collagen powder, protective booster in it doesn't matter it was before after during your color mixing, just put my hero, collagen powder in there. It needs that protective boost in your color, regardless so just put it in there. The next formula we're gon na do is pearl, so i'm gon na mix pearl and clear together, because i don't want to over overtone her hair. If i use pure pearl that her hair might end up looking so ashy and muted that you won't see the impact of the highlight, i actually like the brightness of the highlight. I just want to cool down just a titty bit of the warmth, just a little bit just a titty. It'S a one to two ratio with dedicated six volume developer, i'm gon na add my hero, protective booster collagen powder x in all right and i'm gon na mix her up so nora is going in and tackling the routage area to blur in the demarcation line. All right, so we just got done rinsing out the sandstorm after a process for five minutes. We create that nice little shadow transition, i'm gon na, have nora kind of just pour the pearl express toner crystal clear over her whole head. So we get to kind of like massage it through just like so slow down or slow down girlfriend. I'M getting really excited just like that, and then that's it we're gon na. Let her sit for five minutes and we're gon na rinse this out just massage it throughout, and what i love is that you get to really monitor and see the hair get toned. But adding that crystal clear end ensures that we don't overtone. I think that's the worst is when you overtone you go, oh my god, all that hard work yeah! That'S why you know it's i'd rather be safe than sorry just go in and add crystal clear to just ensure that we don't overtone the hair, and i have to say i love the way it smells that's. I know right. It smells like lavender, it's like you're in a spa. Well, that's when you mix it with a dedicated developer. Well, i follow those rules so and please follow the rules. Guys don't make life any harder and try to like then you'll get dependable results every time yeah. You don't want to take shortcuts. I feel like a lot of people these days just want to take shortcuts in life, but sometimes there's a reason why that shortcut isn't gon na. But it's not really a shortcut because it's going to actually cause a problem later that you're going to have to spend more time fixing have you ever okay, i'm sure most of us have encountered this before but like when we're driving and someone's trying to speed up Around you and cut you off and at the end you both end up at the same stuff at the same traffic right and then you like, look at them and you like, look at like yeah like. Was it worth the rush? Where are you in the same place we're in the same place? I'M sitting here chilling you rush, it could have caused a car accident um right guys, so i can see that her highlights are definitely toned down quite a bit. So we're going to go ahead and rinse it out right now you ready i'm ready and i like to take a look. I see that it's all icy, so there's no sign of warmth. So that's a good sign. So if you definitely like cool toned highlights, the express toners are no joke. Titanium pearl misty, mob sandstorm, it controls all the warmth, but we also have golden sand. If you need to enhance the warmth, because sometimes if you have clients who you need to bring the warmth back, to definitely do yourself, a favor get golden sand, y'all all right guys. This is the final reveal of emily's beautiful stardust. Highlights you guys, look how beautiful those highlights are on her ends, pearl and clear, express toner like in lasting, literally less than five minutes. Our express toners are no joke. Okay, like literally you see it change like within a minute, if not less, the color is so pigmented right absolutely and her hair still looks so healthy from the collagen booster powder that we added right, but i'm over here, looking at how her color blend with the Technique so you see the star dust, you see some of her natural color kind of breaking through and some of the highlights shimmering through it looks natural. It does not look done, and i love this because it's minimal like work, you know i'm saying you'd get maximum results with minimal amount of work because you didn't do the whole head, but the crazy thing is, you guys saw me, leave the veil out on the Top but look you can't tell you're so diffused, it's so diffused. You can see some of the highlights here, but look there's no chunks, no lines of demarcation whatsoever. Her fringe look amazing. You see the blonde popping through, but yet seamless blend, seamless blend, i'm obsessed gorgeous. I love it and it looks super natural. It looks like i just naturally have amazing hair. You do have amazing hair first of all, but not quite this amazing, but now you're extra amazing, and you guys you have no idea she's like she's, been so calm and poised, and it's like this is what she needed. Okay, i'm gon na make her get up. You'Re gon na get up girl. The cape is off she's. Looking sexy, she has a little pop of color in her shirt. Oh my gosh, it's beautiful! I love this placement so much. I just love how natural it looks me too. You guys. I hope you try. This technique in the salon use it on your clients. Tell me if you like it. Okay, i mean how often do you hear that you lighten the hair and it feels healthier after seriously guys try my hero, collagen protective booster, it's gon na change, your life trust me. I am happy i'm happy with the color she's happy and i love my man pony, so i'm feeling good subscribe thumbs up, follow us on instagram facebook, comments below and download my music and my album more to me on spotify itunes, google play everywhere. Okay, my music is going to change your life and i'm going to leave you guys here with my latest music video hit it goodbye.