Stacked Bob Tutorial | How To Cut A Classic Bob | Angled Bob Haircut

Hey guys welcome to my channel i'm summer for those that are new. Today'S video i'm going to be doing a stacked, bop tutorial. I love cutting bobs, it's probably my favorite haircut to do in salon. I always find them so enjoyable and today, i'm specifically just going to be doing your classic with a stack in the back and an angle going towards the front. There'S different variations, but this one is your classic tried and true one that everyone should know how to thoroughly do before moving into any of the different variations of a bob. So we're just gon na go ahead and get started. Okay, so sectioning is one of the most important things with doing really any haircut, but specifically with a bob. You want very nice clean straight lines, you're, obviously going to start off by sectioning off your front pieces from the ear forward. So you like to try to you, want to be behind the ear, not in front of it and just push everything going forward, and if you have to readjust your section, you obviously can. I feel like that's pretty good, though so i'm just gon na take that and clip it up nice and tight and out of the way and we're gon na do the same on the other side. Okay, so now that i have my front sections clipped off really placement of where you're going to bring your angle up, you want to kind of establish before you section them back, usually on a client i'll feel through to see where their occipital bone is obviously, with A mannequin it's a little bit different, it's not as prominent, but you don't really want to stack higher than where the occipital bone is at the base. So, basically, where the curve of their head is so kind of feel through with your fingers, which really in general it kind of meets like just under the tip of their head. So you can always use that as a guide as well and then so i'll. Just go basically in that area, and i like to take that section and clip all of that up as kind of my guide as to where to stop my stack. Okay. So now that you've established that i just like to still take kind of multiple sections with the back. It just makes the stacking part easier, and i like to use duckbill clips. For this part, i feel like it just secures the hair in a little bit better and they're, not quite as bulky as your bigger ones, but the bigger ones are great for a whole section. So i like to just kind of split it in the middle, keeps it nice and clean that way, and then i just will do kind of like my first top one to get that up out of the way and always have your client looking down. It'S easiest and it helps the angle flow better too. Usually, once i get to their occipital bone i'll tell them that they can go ahead and look normal, but while you're creating that stack, you want their head to be looking down. Okay. So now we have her. All sectioned off and now we're gon na actually get into cutting, which is very exciting. So, like i said, you're gon na have your client looking down and adjust your head a little bit more. You don't want them like all the way fully down, but enough that there is that angle, and i just like to start off right in the middle to kind of create my guide and then i go from there and then obviously you want to keep the hair Nice and wet so respray, if you need to this mannequin here, is drying a little bit faster than i anticipated okay. So now that i have created my first guideline here, part of creating that stack is you want to make sure you're bringing your next section out. As close to a 90 degree angle as possible, you don't want to over direct it, you don't want it too low. You want to bring it out, like i said, close to that 90 degree angle. So that way, that is what creates the stack and the angle in and of itself. You want to make sure your sections are thin enough that you can see through to what's underneath if it's too thick you're gon na lose your guide. But one thing you can always do is lift the hair to see what's poking out, if you feel like you're. Second, guessing where your guide is, you can always do that to find it, so i'm gon na pull it out, flip up just to make sure and then cut, and then one thing too. You want to also move your body with where you're cutting, so when you're in the center you want to be in the center when you're moving to the left, you want to adjust to the left and same with the right that way. You'Re pulling your hair out at the appropriate angle, you're not over, directing it to one side or coming out with it too much. So that way you keep like. I said those nice clean lines, even section and that's what's also going to help, create the shape and then obviously, if you see you're, not cutting even you just as you go, you can easily fix that. So you can see right there, where i left that out too much and you just go in and cut it off. You don't want to overthink it. You know you feel like if you're not doing everything perfect, that's the beauty of it as you go, you just easily can match up your points to make sure everything is meeting again. You want to move your body with each area. Try not to go past. The second knuckle i mean they teach you that in here school nine out of ten nine out of ten times, you don't listen, but it is very beneficial if you do and stick with pulling it out as close to 90 degrees as possible. I feel like that's a lot of times, a lot of people's problems with bobs. They don't pull it out high enough to create that stack, and you end up kind of with just like a layered haircut. Almost i mean a lot of people. Don'T want a tight stack, but if you're trying to do an actual real bob, you need to make sure you're pulling that out to create the angle and the stack otherwise you're just having a layered haircut. Okay, as i go, i like to take my corners and i'll pull them to the center to make sure that they're meeting up that one side's not longer than the other. That way, i'm keeping an even flow as i go up and it just helps make it easier along the way, rather than once you get fully done and you're like i'm totally lopsided on one side, you got ta, go back in and reshape everything as you move Up it, you want to continually check, do it about every other section, one thing with clients and apparently mannequins, usually on the very bottom hairline, especially in the corners there'll, be pieces that, like to just poke out so i'll touch on that more when we get to The dry cutting, but usually i find with the very bottom of the perimeter you always have to keep going back in sometimes and just sniffing away, hairs have a mind of its own. It'S frustrating, but so just don't be down on yourself. If you see that that's something happening with you, it's not you necessarily, it's always sometimes just the client's, hair. Okay! So now that i'm to her section kind of along her occipital bone that i clipped up, i'm gon na do one last final section to create a little bit of my stack and then we'll touch on how to go about the rest of the cut. After that. So i can tell by looking at her and feeling she, for whatever reason is staying longer on this side. So, as i check, i can see right down yep right down here there we go so see all that got ta go okay, so now that we've created most of our stack because, like i said you don't want to go too far over her occipital bone, what You will do then, is you're just going to bring down as you section your next pieces, instead of directing them at a 90 degree angle, you're, just gon na bring them down and meet them and again, if you need to wet your client's hair again, always just Get out your spray bottle, you want to kind of keep each section, even as far as the saturation goes on the hair. So instead of bringing this out, i'm just going to bring it down and meet at that line. It'S okay to still have some sort of a light angle. You just don't want it like you, don't want it completely flat, but bring it out a little bit just not where you're fully pulling it out. So i don't know what that angle would be called gently. Not a 90 45 degree or somewhere in the middle okay. So now that i've created my stack, i don't like to do any further like pinpoint cutting on the bottom. Until after i get it dry, a big part of cutting bobs is you spend. Sometimes half of your haircut is dry. Cutting dry cutting is where you're going to really perfect your line, perfect the flow of it. So if you have a client that wants a bob and they don't want to blow dry tell them, they don't have an option, you always will need to do dry, cutting with a bob to finalize this shape. So the way i like to cut my layers with it, i don't really like a lot of layers in a bob. I like it to just be sort of soft flow. You'Ve got to create some layers, so you're taking out the weight from here um, but i don't like to do a lot of layering, so how i do my layers so to do my layers. The way that i do it. I just take starting from the middle straight and i bring everything up and where my last piece falls out. I just cut up from there. I'M gon na continue to do that all the way through. So this just creates a softness from the weight to where, like your angle, meets the top and then, like i said when i do my dry cutting is when i really kind of more so get in here and create more softness to it. Now, if somebody has a ton of hair, you surely yeah, you can go in and do more layering. This is just what i prefer to do. I think it creates a nice soft shape without too much like movement, but you have enough. You can already see a little bit of the line start to form with her ankle. Okay, now that i've done that, i will just take my final top section again: try to keep those sections, the line, nice and straight, bring it all up and then even out that top and then we'll leave it for now until we dry and do our dry. Cutting okay so now we're going to move on to the sides which you can see her angle forming here. So this is going to be your guide, this longest piece in the front to create the angle for your sides. So, to take your first section, you don't want to just bring this all down and cut it down, because what happens is if you don't cut a perfectly straight line: you're just going to keep cutting and cutting and cutting and you're going to lose the ankle. So always take multiple sections for the sides, even if you think you don't need to. Even if your client has really fine thin hair, take multiple sections and i always like to take the section kind of angled down, because that is going to be the direction you're. Cutting so it just makes more sense, i'm actually gon na make that even smaller. This part is personal preference. I prefer my clients to just look normal. Some stylists will have their clients looking down. I don't like to have them look down because you lose the way. The hair just naturally falls when you're looking straight up. Nobody walks around with their head down. It'S just not realistic, so i always cut with them. Looking just normal. So, like i said, your guide is going to be your longest piece right here, so you're going to take from that and just go straight down. Take it you're going to angle your finger down and cut up and then take your next section flip it over again. Don'T forget to re-spray your section if the hair is too dry, you want the same saturation everywhere evenly, so we're going to bring it down angle it and cut. So we have our angle going forward and then i layer my front and sides the same way that i do the back by bringing everything up and i over direct it back just ever so slightly. I personally don't like to take a lot of weight from the front. I don't like a lot of layers in the front i feel like it takes away from the standard classic look of a bob again. If somebody has a ton of hair, you can do more layers, but overall, i like to keep it very simple by just removing a little bit of weight without doing too many layers. So again, i'm gon na go up, but also direct, it back and honestly, sometimes i'll even wait to do that last piece until after it's dried and i can see how it's laying because the thing is especially with people with finer hair. This is true with my hair. I can't do really any layers in the front. I have no weight, so if somebody accidentally takes it off, it's gone and i either have to put extensions in or grow it out so a lot of times with finer hair. I don't like to really do it i'll go through the motion of it to see what that's going to take out so like for her right now. It would be taking out this little bit. That, probably is fine, but i'm going to wait to do it until i have it dry and then i'll just sometimes go back through and do it at a little bit less of an angle and cut in all right and then we're going to repeat the same. On the other side, so for doing the second side, you want to do the same type of sectioning. Never just have this down and shoot it straight down. You want to do multiple sections, so you're getting a nice clean haircut and you're not taking off too much. This is the thing with some hair types. If you cut this too short or angle it and not enough angle, you can correct it with the rest of the hair a lot of the times. So that's why sectioning is key so again we're going to bring it down. This is your guide right here and you're, going to bring it to that angle, your hand down and cut, and then again i'm just going to repeat doing my layers the same way on this side, as i did the others and the back by going up and Over directing it back away from her face, okay, before i move on to my front, this can be done either way. You can either check your front first or you can check your layers on the top of the head. I'M just going to go ahead and check the layers on the top of the head. What i do is i just go and bring everything up. I leave out kind of this front, little section, which would be kind of like where her weight needs to stay around her face, and i just bring the rest up. Keep going with a nice line, bring it up and just slightly back to see where it meets and then just cut that and then you're gon na take to check that and lightly just cut into that very top. Okay. So now that i have finished fully cutting basically the whole haircut, what i'm going to do is check her front pieces here to make sure that they line up before i go into drying it. So what i like to do to check my front piece. You'Ll just stand directly in front of your client and you're just going to match up each side and go through so you'll want to do that, which i'm going to do that now. Okay, so you want to make sure that they're headed straight first of all and then i just kind of will lightly squat down low. So i can see or pump them up whichever one and then i'm just going to go through and see how it lines up. For the most part, i'll do key points so i'll try to grab around their ear, because that's a good guide for both sides and i pull it forward to see what is missing. So i need to angle this a little bit more and another way you can check. It, too, is by standing behind your client and pulling it back, and you can always also use your mirror. Okay, so now that i've kind of overall checked when it's wet, sometimes you don't want to over think checking when it's wet, just because the hair does lay different dry. So, like i said, you spend a lot of time, sometimes with a bob dry cutting. So i'm going to go ahead and get her styled now and then we'll go in and really perfect it where it needs to. Okay. So for her styling products, i'm going to use moroccan oils, concentrate smoothing oil love this stuff, one to two pumps, probably only one on her hair and then um. I love provenance, polish and reunite. This is a split end. Mender mannequin head is crap all the time. Anyways but on human hair, this stuff is truly amazing for any clients that have severe damage on their ends. It really seals in the ends takes away any of that frayed. Look, you can do it wet and then you can do a little bit on the ends when it's dry too love love, love the stuff anti-humidity as well. One thing i want to mention before i do like the full full blow dry when i blow dry. I don't like to separate my sides from the back like this. I feel like it creates a little bit of a crease and then sometimes when you're doing your dry, cutting it kind of leaves the hair being separated here, which just makes it a little bit more difficult. So i like to just do multiple sections going fully around the head rather than separating it here. Okay, so now she is fully dry and i did flat iron her a little bit. I forgot how non-cooperative mannequin hair can be. So this is her from her front angle and then i want to show you guys the sides before i cut into it, to show you guys the importance of dry cutting with bob's any haircut really, but especially with bobs. So, as you can see, we've got our angle in here working. It obviously needs a little bit of tweaking, but the biggest problem that happens with a lot of bobs, and this was happening a little bit while i was cutting i'll show you the back. You guys got ta stay with me when you see the back, so the problem is sometimes you get these little baby hairs underneath that want to pop out this happens on clients. I almost wanted to like go in and critique this before. I showed you guys just because it looks so ugly, but the truth is this is what happens a lot of times with a lot of bobs, the bottom always pokes out, and it's so annoying. You always have to go back in and clean it up, but i wanted you guys to see so see it already throws off the whole look of the haircut and especially on this side too, but what's great is that shows you all you have to do is Just go in and clean that up and then i'm going to touch on also how we're going to clean up her layers and the thickness in here. You can go ahead and do some of these steps and i'm going to show you while dry cutting. While it's still wet as well, but i like to do a lot of it dry cutting just because you really get to see how the hair lays - and i feel like you - have more control over it rather than it's wet. If you take it too far, when it's wet, there's no correcting it, so i like to do a dry. That'S just my personal preference! Everything that i'm going to do dry cutting you still can do somewhat when it's wet, so you can apply the same steps for when it's wet. I just prefer the dry cutting and i feel like it gives you the best end result. Okay, so first things. First, we're gon na get rid of this hideous little line poking out here. So what i like to do is basically just follow along with where the side angle is and just curve it around with my scissor and comb okay. So, as i can see right here, this is poking out. So i've got my guide here and my comb to kind of see and i'm just going to cut with my scissors at a little bit of an angle just going to follow that all the way around. So sometimes one of the most frustrating things is doing the back. It'S precise i like to book all of my bob's an hour and a half appointment, some hair types i like to take even two hours on them, which might sound crazy to some of you. But if you're really trying to do a very thorough precision cut, it takes a time you have to see how the hair lays how it lays after you've flat ironed it or if you're just blow drying it. Sometimes it kinks back up, and then you always have these guys that poke back out and this man again is being very stubborn, but just be patient with it. Don'T freak out and think you've done something wrong. This is a lot of times just how the hair goes when you're doing a bob. Now i'm correcting this line, but this needs to be cut in a little bit more to create just a little bit more of an angle where some of these spots are poking out. Sometimes we still have to do multiple sections, okay. So now what i'm going to do that i've cut along her line a little bit more, i'm just going to take my scissor over comb and point cut into it to just lightly soften it this and then sometimes you get a flat iron as you go. If you get a kink and we're just gon na keep continuing up going scissor over comb, so see where you can see this hair underneath has fallen out and that's still out just by cutting into that is what softens and gives more of the angle. If that makes sense, if i'm explaining that right, hopefully i am okay so now that i've cut more of her perimeter in the back, i'm now going to move into softening this thick line right here. So to do that, i'm first going to start with my texturizing shears and i'm just going to go in and out take my scissors again and you can also apply scissor over comb. Just gon na take this and you can see a little bit here where this is sticking out and you're just gon na go in and point cut in okay. So hopefully you can see this on the camera. I'M not sure this hard line right here. This is what i'm trying to blend in, so i'm gon na just keep going scissor over comb and cut into that line. All this cut into that see this line. This is your guide. This comes out you're, just going to continue to go up around the head into the sides by just kind of doing the same thing i did before with the layers you're just correcting and softening when you're wanting to create softness in at the sides, especially kind of Right here in the ear it gets a little bulky. You don't want to ever create a hole. So one way to avoid that, when you're wanting to add some texture, there bring it up. Let this whole bottom half fall out and then you can just go in and do some deep point cutting and you don't have to worry about creating that hole because you've got your base down here and you can kind of do that same thing. All along the sides, just let your base the perimeter fall out, so you keep that weight. Okay! So now that i have softened up this one side, pretty much how i am liking, the way that it's laying i'm just gon na go through and look at my sides to make sure this is lining up well, so anything that's out of place, i'm just going To correct and get rid of so that way, we have a nice clean line. I'M gon na bring this up first cut that top and then her front piece along her face. I'M going to bring all the way back, see how that's laying - and this is where, with real clients that sometimes you do need them to move their head i'll. Have them angle it this way, look down a little bit for those hairs, underneath that sometimes still can be a little bit stubborn and poke out, so don't be afraid to ask your client to move if they want a nice clean, hard line. Sometimes they're going to have to move their head; it just is what it is, and i'm just going to do the same steps on this other side match up even out my line, and then i'm gon na check everything, often with bombs. You sometimes have to texturize one side of the hair. More than the other hair grows in a pattern, and sometimes something will look off with the length but a lot of times. It can just be the thickness. That'S throwing that off. So you might have a spot that you're like. Why is this looking longer on the one side and you go to check it and it's not longer it's probably because you need to take a little bit more weight out of that section. So one way you can check your front pieces to make sure they're even is what i like to do. Is i like to take kind of the top perimeter out as if you had like your hair, just up on the top of your head and i'll clip it back, and this is a good way to see how these pieces line up that you can check. And that's also a good way to tell if something is thicker on one side than the other, so this is how i'll get right up in the client's face squat down. However, you need to to see if it's matching up on both sides and like i said if you need to texturize one side over the other, sometimes your client's hair, depending on how it's laying can pop up on one side and it'll, throw you off. So that's where, when you take this up and you're pulling down on those pieces to have them meet, is a good way to tell if they're, even or not okay guys, so there you have it. This is my end result of my bob of the way that i like to cut to achieve my stacked bobs. As you can see, we've got nice clean lines along her hair. I don't like to do a ton of layering, but there's enough movement there in the hair that you can see and it gives a nice lived-in look. It also will show some shape when you curl it, but these are the steps that i always take like. I said you can adjust if needed. If you want to add more layers, go ahead and add more layers, it all depends on your client's hair and what they're also wanting for their end result bobs take time and precision. So if you are new into styling or if you're, just starting out in school, a bob is one of the more difficult haircuts, i would say so: go out get a mannequin and practice makes perfect. So you need to be very precise. Like i said, key things are clean lines, plenty of sections and you always want to do smaller sections than two bigger ones. That way you don't lose your guidelines. So if you guys have any questions at all, please leave a comment below. I would be happy to answer them. I hope you enjoyed my technique and, like i said you can always tweak and adjust. If you need to. This is just how i like to do. My bombs practice makes perfect and i still feel like there's always something i can still work on and critique with. My bob so hope you guys enjoy. The video, like i said before, go ahead. Give this a thumbs up. Please subscribe. If you haven't already - and i will see you guys soon -