Bob Haircut With Layers | Matt Beck Vlog 104

What is up guys welcome to today's vlog? Today'S vlog is going to be filmed from the new studio, so this is a really exciting chapter in free salon. Education. Thank you to you guys for supporting us over the last three years, putting out the education and all that we did it starting an 800 square foot salon, and now we have this beautiful studio where we're going to be able to put out way more content. For you guys, so it's really exciting. This is the first video filmed from the new studio. So what I decided to do was go with a nice classic haircut, but we did a lot of texturizing techniques within it. We use texturizing scissors at the end and we created structure using horizontal sections and also vertical elevation, so I think you guys are going to get a lot out of this cut now. Second, announcement that I want to make before we start our step-by-step video is that the SSE Partner Program - I've been talking about on quite a few videos since January used to be $ 20 a month. Well now my announcement is that program is free, so we wanted to make it free from the beginning. It was a little hard to do that because it there's a lot of cost. That goes into creating something like that, but the FSE partner program is now free. First, I want to thank the stylist that jumped on board right away in January, we're part of the program for the last five months. It'S been so great, and now we want to expand that program all over the world. So if you want to join it, it's free go to FSC ondemand.com. You could become part of our FSC partner program. Would you live classes, q and A's business classes all kinds of different content, and you can also save that content in your own playlist. So you can watch these videos, you can use it as a training tool and your salon there's so many different options available. So a lot of stuff going on, I haven't made a video on a couple weeks, so I feel, like I got to pack it all into this one, but we're going to get start with our step by step. I think you guys are going to like the cut. Let me know what you think in the comments below also, if you have any questions post them in the comments below and before you forget, hit the subscribe button. If you haven't done that already - because this is exciting, we have a lot of exciting stuff happening. Want you guys to miss a thing. So, let's get started the step by step here we go alright, guys we're going to start off by sectioning our mannequin, and what I did was I base this off a left hand side part if your guest parts, their hair in a different place than I would Start the haircut in that way, so, basically off the left hand side parting. Then I draw a line just underneath mid crown down to behind the ear, so really just looking for that mid crown area diagonal forward parting down to behind the ear. I do the same thing on the opposite side. So when you make a left hand side parting, you got to understand that you have a weak side, which is the side you're, seeing right now that I'm clipping away, and then you have a heavy side, which is that opposite side where all the weight, all the Density is going to sit because you're parting, the hair asymmetrically, so you just have to know that when I want to create a balanced look in the back of the head now I go straight down center back. So I leave that parting out of my mind that I made at the top and I do completely different partings down the back, so we go straight down center back and I do a nice horizontal parting over from the occipital bone down to behind the ear. Now I start off with a smaller section and the reason I do that is because I want to take all this hair in my hand, and I want to cut it. I am giving it slight elevation, so you have to be aware that when you elevate the hair a little bit you're going to get a broken line at the bottom that broken line, I'm going to go in and cut dry and I'm going to remove it. So I don't have to worry about that. The other thing I want you guys to notice is that I'm working horizontally and the reason I'm working horizontally right now is because I'm working on the lower part of the head - and this allows me to really focus on the shape of the haircut. So it allows me to get underneath there. Sometimes people have an issue working vertically at the very bottom of the nape area, because their hand kind of gets in the way. So I like to go in horizontally as long as I'm cutting a nice clean squared off Bob shape, so we're cutting a square shape in the back, so my hand is staying parallel to my horizontal parting and I just work my way up the head. Now. The key to cutting horizontally to make sure you don't take too big a partings if you take a one inch parting now, all of a sudden you're over directing the hair when you bring it down, so you want to make sure you're not taking too much hair. I take about 70 % of the old hair or the guideline, and I bring down about 30 % of new hair to use to cut so I go through there making sure that I'm working with small partings throughout the back when cutting horizontally the key thing to Focus on is your elevation, so if you can tell that my elevation is really low, but it's not as low as it was when I took my first section so as I move up the head shape as the head shape, shifts and moves, my elevation gets higher Because my weight would get heavier, for instance, if you look at a lot of people that cut horizontally, they think if they cut horizontally, it's them keeping weight on when really the reality of it is you could cut horizontally or vertically you're going to get pretty much. The same result as long as you're consistent with your elevation, so as I work through the back, the head shape is bending and moving away from my hand and, as the head shape moves away from my hand. If I kept that low elevation, it would be way too heavy at the very end of the cut and I'd have to go in and do a ton of texturizing techniques to take out all that weight. So, as I work my way up the head, you can see this first section is nice and low, but as I work my way up horizontally with those partings, my elevation goes up as I work through the head shape. That'S kind of difficult for some people. Some people don't have a hard time, focusing on the line that they're cutting, plus the elevation that they're holding the hair at. So you really want to make sure that you focus on a few different things, while you're cutting hair. Your finger angle, how you're holding the hair, is it consistent with your last parting? Your elevation is your elevation reflecting off of what the head shape is doing? Are you going to have the weight that you want in the haircut? So you really want to make sure you focus on those two things and then really just where your body position is, where you're standing within the cut to make sure that you're staying nice and square in the back. So you could see this is an overhead angle. This is a great thing about having the studio. Now I have a camera above, which makes it a lot easier. The other thing I want to point out, while this is on that / direction, that's happening, there's / direction. That happens right behind the ear the head is starting to move away that way as well. So as I pulled that hair back towards me, I'm over directing it way further than I was with the hair, that's in the nape. What that's going to do is start to push hair forward anytime. You pull hair somewhere else as soon as you cut it and let it go, it swings back to where it was so. You want to make sure that, as that on that over Direction is pushing the weight forward, you want to make sure that it's the right amount of weight that you're looking for so now. What I'm going to do is just go through and do a technique that allows me to just soften it. So I bend the head down. I stand in front of the guest and I go through. I just do a little point. Cutting on that fine edge right at low-crown area just to soften it a bit because, like I said we did lower elevation, so I want it to be nice and soft. So you can see that you shape that's created in the back, and then you could see that elevation and how that shape really goes well with the head shape. So now what we're going to be doing is moving into the side portion of the cut and on the sides we've got. Like I mentioned at the beginning, we've got a weak side and a heavy side, so this is the weak side. This is the side she parts her hair on. What I'm going to do is create a nice horizontal perimeter and I'm going to base that off to the back of the head, the back of the haircut so where that perimeter line is in the nape I'll base. The sides on that as well and I'm just going to work my way up the side of the cut using horizontal partings, but also creating a little bit of elevation or using elevation to lighten up the sides. Now you just want to be careful when cutting the weak side of a cut, because you don't want to add a ton of layering on the weak side and then match up the layering on the heavy side. A lot of stylists get caught up in making sure that both sides are cut exactly the same, but the problem is both. Sides of the head are not exactly the same. One side is heavy. One side has a lot more density. One side has more hair, so you need to make sure that as you're going through, it you're cutting the left side because it's low density and you're cutting the right side, because it's high density, so we're going to do some layering techniques to take care of that. The one thing I want you to notice - hopefully you didn't miss it, but I did separate at the division point so at that point the ear this part I wanted to elevate vertically and cut into it to connect it into the back. So you can see on the overhead camera. I work my way around that corner, because I didn't want to cut everything horizontally. It would have just been too heavy to connect it in the back there. So at the division point as I work through sometimes I'll. Take that hair vertically and just cut it to make it nice and soft. You also notice that I use point cutting instead of blunt cutting, because that gives me a softer line as well, so don't be afraid to switch up your technique. If it's going to work better in a certain situation like vertically cutting a haircut, I can control the weight better than I can horizontally. So in that very back portion right here, you can see that's where that corner happens, so I section it off. I go in vertically to remove the weight round off that corner a bit, so I don't push too much extra over direction or anything like that into the corner, and I just remove that bulk. Then I go back through and I cut the rest horizontally. So I switched up my technique in mid cut, but there's a purpose behind all of it. So we'll just finish off that side, you can see that elevation shifts a little bit, but I wanted to keep it a little heavier because it is the weaker side. So I've wanted it to look balanced at the end of the cut. So now we've got our crown area this overlaps, so this is a great way to just go in and blend it. So I'm gon na do the same exact thing. Working vertically around the head shape basically tie shape sections until I get to the edge till I get to the corner and then I'll do a slight little over direction. But for the most part, just straight out from the head working that round of the head and also point cutting it to break it up, traveling guide, so I take a little bit of the old add the new, and then I use that as my guideline and I cut around it so notice, my elevation, you can see at the very top like the inside of my finger. The top part of that section isn't quite at 90 degrees, so there will be a little bit of heaviness, which is what we're going to go in with the texturizing scissors end and take care of, I don't mind having the heaviness. I want that weight line sitting in a certain spot right around that occipital bone, but just because you want a weight line, there doesn't mean that it's going to be the exact weight line that you're looking for so we'll use our texturising scissor in the end of It to remove that weight line a little bit, so we just check our length make sure it matches up, and then we move in to the side portion of the cut same thing here, I'm going to work horizontal partings across cut. My perimeter first match up the lengths. This is a great way to make sure that your bob is not going to be lopsided, so you go through and you can cut your length and you can check it before you move on to the rest, I'm going to work. The side of the haircut here. Remember this is our heavy side, so we have to cut it differently. The different type of head of hair. So we go through cut our perimeter line. I keep working my way up the head shape until I get to that parietal Ridge point. The parietal Ridge is the separation between all that extra hair that I have to cut till I get to the other side and and the rest of the right side. So I'm going to go through cut the this part. Exactly like, I cut the opposite side because that's the amount of hair we had to work with then through the top I'm going to change it up to create more elevation and create layering within this cut. So that's just showing you that's the parietal Ridge point. So this is my last bit of hair that I'm going to cut horizontally. Then I'm going to move in to the top and cut it differently. What we're going to do here is we're going to cut a layered Bob, and I get a lot of questions a lot of people requesting. Can you do a layered Bob? Well, a layered Bob can mean a lot of different things. What we're going to do is go through and layer, the top create a lot of texture throughout this cut. So I'm going to use point cutting I'm going to connect it to the highest point right at the parietal Ridge and in the back part of the cut. As well, so all that stuff is connecting from the back from the sides to make sure that our lengths match up, but I want to create nice light layers which will help balance all the weight that's happening throughout the top of the head. So this is a great way to add those layers, but not layer. The sides when you layer the sides and the top and a bob what happens is it just looks too rounded, rounded, off and just too flat. So you've got the bulkiness of cutting everything horizontally on the bottom at low elevation, and then you have the nice light feel on the top using the layering and the higher elevation in this cut. So these are just round partings, I'm just working the round of the head and traveling guide, so no other direction in this. I want to go straight out from the head, because I'm not trying to push a ton of weight forward. I wanted to just lay nice and soft, and then the only bit of over direction is going to happen right now in the very front, it's a slight, maybe one inch over direction back, which will just push a little extra weight to the front. Give me a little extra length on the one side. I think it just style eise's the cut a little bit. It doesn't necessarily change anything, so we can just go through and just kick that length into the front. Also, you got to realize that you do lose a little bit of density in that very front portion, so a slight over direction back doesn't hurt anything because most people's forehead is not in line with their temple. It goes out just a little bit further so that one little piece one inch chunk of hair in the banging area needs to be over directed back in some cases. So there is the end result of the wet cut. You can see the balance I like being able to look at the sides and say well, the heavy side doesn't look super heavy, they look like they balance up and all that layering gives me a lot of movement throughout. So Davin had sent me some products. I actually had a great meeting got to go up to their headquarters in New York. They gave me a bunch of products to play around with I've really been enjoying them. This is their treatment oil. So basically, what I did was I added two to three pumps. Put that through the mid-shaft to end the hair, it's just a multi-purpose treatment, oil for all different hair types. So I thought it would be great to this style, and I just I do really love the feel and the shine of this product. And now what I'm doing is just going in flat wrapping, so the flat wrap technique really work that product in I got my ego paddle brush, I'm working that through I like the paddle brush, because it gives me lots of tension as I'm blow-drying and then I'm Going to go through with my vibra straight iron from burke otto will heat. This thing up, I haven't been putting my Flatiron above 390 degrees. I used to really pop it up there, but I find that as long as you take nice small sections, so you don't create damage. I think a lot of our guests and clients in the salon are damaging their hair with their heat tools, so make sure you got heat protectant on there and also working through using an iron. The vibra straight iron is great because it vibrates as it irons. So it separates the hair and doesn't create as much friction on the hair, but also keeping it at a low heat. 390 degrees is plenty as we work through there, so we got it all iron and polished out. Now I'm working that perimeter remember. We talked about the elevation that happens in the nape. What that does is creates a little bit of layering in the nape, so I want to go through and create more of a blunt line, so I did that with my Mizutani type. Z2 scissor. This is cool because it has a nice thick tip on it. So it's great for going in doing detail, work on dry hair, it's also a nano powder metal steel, which basically means the softer feel to the metal. It'S got a grip to it, so it goes through it's more consistently made. It grips the hair and cuts it. So when you look at cutting dry hair, some people want that slip, but sometimes you want precision, and the type z2 is great for that. This is a Mizutani type, Z, dual texture, scissor. All these scissors are available on free song, education comm. You can also read more about them and look at them up close, but this is the dual texture scissor the benefit of having a dual texture. Scissor is it's a texturizer on both blades, so there's no solid blade pulling the hair at the end of the cut. So you can slide the scissor right out now the technique that I'm doing I'm just taking my blade horizontally across the hair, lifting it up. Where that build-up of weight would happen and I'm basically doing a point cutting technique, but the great thing about the texture, scissor is not creating any blunt lines in there now. The product I'm going to go in with is the definition mist from Davin Eze. It'S another cool product that they sent me it's a Polish and separation spray, so I put it in there. You can see how it gives it that little bit of texture, but also the cool thing about this product is it has a ton of shine. So a lot of texture spray is dull. The hair out this one added a ton of shine to the hair. We finish it up with a medium hair spray gives it a really nice movable hold and also a davon s product. So if you want to get more information on those products check out, Gavin Escom hope you guys like the video thanks for watching alright guys, like always, if you liked this haircut then hit the like button hit. The share button share this video with all of your hairdresser friends out there and if you're, not a hairdresser - and you watch this video all the way through and you want a hair cut like this. Don'T do it yourself go to hair salon, locator com, that's our website has all of our ffz partner, salons and stylists in the country and we're expanding it worldwide. So all you have to do is put in your zip code and you can find a salon close to you that follows our free salon, education, videos and learns these cuts. So we have our big community of stylist out there they're looking for new clients, just like you, so go check them out on hair salon, locator calm. Thank you guys so much for watching this video I'll, see you guys on the next one thanks.