Short Layered Bob Haircut & Hairstyles For Women | Great Haircut Tips & Techniques

Hey everyone: george garpacy here craft hairdresser, co-founder of the hair brain community, continuing a series that i started last week: kind of about being inspired by 90s haircutting techniques. I keep hearing that the 90s is super trendy and i'm like well, hey, that's perfect, because that's my error, that's where i was trained and the background that i you know, really started my career in last week. I went through kind of working from the inside out, as you know, one of the 90s inspired techniques. That really, i think, was important for me now. I want to start to work on a combination haircut, where we're going to start to use disconnection we're going to start to use what we use, what we call freehand cutting pointing and slicing and we're also going to use a combination of wet cutting and dry cutting. You can see this beautiful color here done by my friend, lupe voss. I can't tell you much about it other than she used the new color space product, so the color is fantastic here and it was deeper in the nape here. So i'm going to put in, as you can see, just a panel of graduation and the graduation is going to be kind of rounded through and head hugging. So let's start off here. The reason why i chose to work wet down here is working close to the head and working short with graduation, especially on very straight hair. Like this, you can get a little pokey um and then you know with graduation. You need a little bit more control. At least i know i do um, so you can see at first i cut off a little bit of the extra length at the bottom um. That just makes it a little easier for me. I still gave myself a little bit of room to play around, but i took off some of the excess length now i'm going to come in with diagonal forward sections using the guide line from the first side and using point cutting going in. You know going in one direction and the other direction here is something we really kind of. I can remember you know in the early 90s, when we just kind of started, to make this little change from cutting everything super clean and connecting everything to starting to play around with working with not only disconnection but what we call free hand cutting which just meant That the lines you know weren't cut, clean or club cut or blonde, so super section, uh super simple diagonal forward sections over directed just onto the previous um. I like to stand off to the side to do this, so that i can kind of look through the hair um. You know i think body position, there's always more than one body position to execute something, but you know for me being a larger person in general. I find that when i graduate like this, if i can stand off to the side, look through the hair, i get better results. Just over directing back to the previous i'm not trying to build too much weight behind the ear the weight is going to come from the top there's going to be a disconnected overhang. That covers this graduation, perhaps not completely, but it will cover the graduation. You know the point for this undercut is to really kind of number one bring out a beautiful head shape in this kind of bob shape and number two um give it some some drama, and some some movement and some peek-a-boo, especially with this color down here. So you'll see that, as this develops just want to take a minute and say hello to everyone out there, our audience today, yvonne duda is saying hello as well as zoe uh matilda welcome everybody thanks for tuning in and hanging out, hi friends great to have you Here and you know just making sure that i'm keeping the bottom in tighter and building the length on the top, and that's really what graduation is all about. You know i can check that every once in a while with my comb to make sure that that bottom isn't buckling out, and i can see it visually that the bottom is shorter than the top. But i always kind of do like a cone test. Where i come through and i, as i comb out, i make sure the bottom drops out before the top. I know that sounds simple, but i i can't tell you how many times i've been working on graduation or teaching someone graduation where they actually end up with the bottom a little bit longer. It has a lot to do with finger position and just awareness, but you really need to focus on getting that bottom and tight and again sometimes just using the comb so that you can see what's happening. I want to say hello to david kingston uh as well as joey cupcake. Welcome everybody great to have you guys here, joey cupcake. I like that name. That'S great sounds like fun. You got to be a fun person if your name is cupcake. Definitely all right. So you can see, i didn't build up a ton of weight, i'm going to come in now and i'm going to look at the outline. I had left extra length here from the beginning, knowing that i would then kind of personalize it and obviously on a real hairline you want to have even you know that ability to play with it, because once you graduate it, you can never predict exactly what it's Going to do unless you've cut that hair many times so here just kind of rounding off the whole edge, then using some scissor over comb and some more deep, parallel point cutting so again the whole purpose was you know. For for me. I had to learn in the very early 90s, you know very, very clean cutting and you know sometimes it worked well and sometimes it didn't. You know it was very much especially for me with haircuts like graduation. You know, i would always feel like it was too heavy um or i would get weight lines, and you know when we started to be able to work into the hair a little bit more. It was just really what clicked for me and that you know from that point. The love of texture really developed for me and i'm not saying that you can't do beautiful work without you know using point cutting it's just it's a personal thing. I just like it. I enjoy doing it um and i just find it makes my haircuts kind of sing for me a bit more. So it's very rare that i do anything that doesn't have some texture work to it. Zoe is wondering if you would leave this step for the leave. This tip for the refining step um you could, but you know, since i'm working kind of dry, and i have hair that's going to cover this i'd rather kind of get this where it needs to go now. It'S a personal thing as well, because the hair is going to fall over it um, and i really want to kind of see what it's going to do, because it's quite visual a lot of what i'm going to do in the next stage. And i think, if there's anything, that's a little too distracting for me um, it will be harder for me to dial it in so really just checking through looking for this slight kind of, i always just think of it like a half moon shape, you can see It through the comb there and then really detailing it. You know having larger hands learning to work over comb to refine. Graduation made a big difference for me because it's kind of hard to get these big meat paws in close to the head. I'Ve done. Okay, you know, and i've learned how to do it, but i've also learned how to use overcome technique to refine all right. I will i'll put some heat on this real quickly, because the rest of it's going to be dry cut. So just a few seconds of new colors on the best brushes available at hair brain pro um, so we've got some fun colors for 2021, this kind of greenish color we've got some blue and red, so hair brain dot pro best brush. I think it's the most important brush in your arsenal. I think there are a lot of great brushes, but this is the one that i couldn't live without it's a real hair cutters brush, so here just wrap drying getting some of this heavy moisture out of this graduation, really showing off that beautiful color from lupe bloss. So, while we're waiting for this to dry, what's the overall look you're going for this is going to be a bob surprise. Surprise! Oh, you know very 90s inspired kind of bob uh with disconnections and movement. It'S it's got a lot going on. There'S going to be graduation, it's going to be flat, layering concave layering, but it all comes together to make a very simple lean and modern kind of shape, and you know even since, even though it's a 90s inspired thing, um, it's timmy, always looked very current. All right now working into this next panel - and you can see i did because the hair is dry up here. I didn't do a lot of subsection or pre-sectioning, because i think that um it'll get all crimped up and and it'll be just really challenging to work with letting that hair fall. I'Ve come from the crown to the top of the ear just trying to gently push. This out of the way using the crux clips, these have this little rubber band on it. I find these more gentle for dry cutting, which is definitely a good thing. Now this panel is going to not connect to the first panel at all. This is definitely something we started playing around with a lot in the 90s, so judging the head shape coming from the lower crown area into the back of the ear trying to gently clip that out of the way you know very often when i work with dry Cutting i tend to keep the flat iron handy um, just because, even though it's gentle clip it can disturb the roots a little bit. So i see i've got a little bit of pop in the corners i'm going to turn the iron on um and i'll. Let it heat up for a second while we establish this guideline. Okay, so you know the first thing i can do i mean i know i don't want this longer than the graduation and just to make it easier to deal with i'm going to come down here and just take off the excess length. You know as long as i'm not exposing the graduation in any way right now. This isn't going to be the ultimate length here, but it's just especially when working freehand, it's going to be so much more comfortable to not have too much excess length to work with. So we just kind of pre-cut that off now we want to establish where this center guideline is going to be. This is going to really determine a lot for the rest of the haircut, so i'm going to bring this guy out here. I can see where my graduation is there now. I don't want to connect that i want to disconnect it now. We can play around with this, so let's just play around i'm going to come out and leave it a little like on the longer side just enough that it would kind of hit the perimeter of the graduation. I think ultimately i'll take it shorter than that, but i'm just going to start here - and i think if i turn around you'll, get a better angle. But let me just do this first cut here: awesome loopy just popped on um lupe. We were just talking about your color all right, so it's looking a little bit solid on the on the uh. The color line we'll be able to deal with that in a minute and again this is it's longer than i want it to be considerably, but i just wanted to show you it can go in different, different ways. I'M going to take this down a little bit more and i learned a lot from that first section i can see where lupe has this beautiful color at the top uh, i'm probably going to need to go in deeper in that area to really melt it or Maybe use some slicing all right, taking a little more length off. I said i would turn around you'd get a better a better example of what needs to happen here. Ultimately, i usually end up. You know the way i like this shape. I usually end up about an inch and a half or two inches longer than the graduation, but i just wanted to show you that you can kind of play around with it and get different effects, so i always tend to find that going a little deeper right. Above it, and in this case, i'll go in a little deeper right, where this beautiful kind of smoky gray is just to release the the weight line of the color yeah start to. You can use some slicing as well to release that color and against some working dry and visually i'm doing a lot of it all at the same time. Okay, next section vertical - and you know what now i want to start building a corner behind the ear um. So that i can have a connection to the side, so i'm going to over direct everything back, not all the way to the center, but to a flat or square wall and that'll give me enough without it being too heavy. And again, as i said, i know i need to take a little bit more off in the top so going in deep with what we tend to call deep parallel point cutting another very 90s kind of development, starting to see that shape again. The graduation now because of the disconnection i'm sorry because of the over direction, the disconnection gets greater and greater through the back of the ear which we want that to happen so that we get an overhang that actually starts to create a ball line into the sides Or an outline, so in this case i've ended up about an inch and a half of disconnection going in a little deeper at the top and at the bottom for parallel. Point cutting we're kind of keeping the meat in the middle having a little product handy as you're working dry, especially on here. It'S been kind of flat ironed. Just a little bit of a cream. There put some moisture back in uh lori baker is um, saying hello from kansas and she's a 90s stylist and she is loving it great. I'M sorry kel. What are you asking? Uh nope nope, nothing everything's, all good, all right so continuing to over direct back straight and square and point cut square line going in a bit deeper at the top. With parallel point cutting you know on the ends, i'm doing more of a diagonal point. Cutting that takes the length away you know like, as i said in the 90s, we really experimented and i think kind of began to create the foundation of modern hair cutting or what we see now is hair cutting, and you know a lot of it had to Do with freehand and point cutting and really just discovering all the different different things you can do so here is where the disconnection is going to be the most from the top to the bottom. I continue. This is diagonal point cutting it's usually pretty shallow. In this case, because i'm really just trying to get the shape in so it's kind of a square shape - that's been pointed into, so it's not completely blunt and go back the opposite way. If i want to get a little more separation in there and then going in more tea to the finger than the top and the bottom awesome simon best is saying hello and uh and hello to everybody who's tuning in and hanging out with us this afternoon. Great another great day, well, great names are coming out. I wish my last name was best a little more cream here again because it's so visual you want to see what's happening as you're working awesome again last section over directed back cut square. You know something we also played around with was cutting in the comb like this. I remember doing this a bit in the 90s. Obviously, it's lower tension and can be kind of fun, and sometimes i just mix it in there. So you can see, there's a lot of extra covers here and that's going to give me something to play around with behind the ears bringing this up and over, and you can see it's quite square i'll turn around. So you can kind of see so did a pretty good job controlling it now coming in again, deeper parallel point cutting deeper a little kind of kick there from the iron, but you know i'm just going to kind of work with it. I'Ll use some cream. Let'S get some moisture in there and even like let it start to revert a little bit all right now we're going to move over to the opposite side, i'm going to lower the mannequin a tiny little bit, because now i'm gon na work with my fingertips downside. I tend to kind of flip from side to side some people don't - and you don't have to, but it's just something - that's kind of ingrained in me there's my guide. Obviously soft guides are harder to follow than than really clean guides. So you really want to make sure you're on come back a little bit deeper at the top and at the bottom. The bottom is where it just kind of will help a cup to the head and the top just to kind of help that color melt a little bit more coming back again, i can see my line here i'll turn around this way. Maybe you guys, can you see from the guideline? Let'S see the guideline right there again, sometimes we used to kind of have fun just using the comb trying to keep that square. Ben brown is popping in and saying hello he's loving the color hey great thanks to our friend lupe yeah. We were. We finally got to see our dear friend lupe for the first time in 13 months now that we're all vaccinated and we and we ransacked all of her color mannequins a whole bunch of mannequins, which is pretty awesome to have some mannequins that have great color on Them it also makes for a great lesson for the audience when, when the color is a challenge, how how we get around it totally yeah. But in this case i don't think the color is a challenge. It'S just you know you have to customize. If the hair has been colored and you're doing creative cut, you just have to use pointing and slicing and kind of um, or you know i could have also cut the top rounder. If i wanted to stay technical, but then i think i would lose the essence of the shape that i'm going for, because to me it's very important to keep this area flat so that you're still getting that build up of weight from the graduation. If i started to round this through, you would lose that stacked effect, and i didn't want to lose that at all. So you know i think technical hair cutting. Obviously i love it's the foundation of everything. I do it's the foundation of what you're seeing here, but sometimes you want to do something technically that you know you could say. Oh, i could definitely why not just round that top through technically and then the color would disappear, but you would also lose the shape. So sometimes you make some sacrifices to get an effect that you want, but it can get pretty philosophical about it all so again, working over the comb, which i do a lot to go in deeper, get more separation almost using the whole length of my blade. This is my hb pro dry um. I i like it for a lot of things. I mean. Obviously i am dry cutting in this case um, but i use it for a lot of things and you know it what it does. Is it just kind of pushes the hair right off the bat it cuts less of a sharp line, which is what i'm going for here. If i want a sharp line, i'll use my uh, a g which is our most kind of precise cutting scissor. All these tools are available, harebrained pro i'll, give you guys a little uh sneak peek it's hairdresser, appreciation day on april 25th, here in the us, so we're going to have 20 discounts um at the hairbrained pro store. So, if you're interested in getting some new tools, this weekend's going to be good for you all right, so you can see there's a disconnection there, i'm keeping that for the moment. How did this happen this disconnection here? Because this is square and the underneath is more triangular or rounded with the head, so this is square deliberately, and this is rounded that gives me hair to work with, as i work into my blend on the side, so that's very, very deliberate, and you know it's Extra hair that i can work on as i start to work into the side, all right, one more panel for the back, i'm going to go up a little bit higher now from the apex to the round to the head. I'M sorry to the to the back of the ear and we're going to start to introduce another cutting technique here again. For me, a very 90s thing, channeling or slicing, it's been quite a few different terms. You can see it's just kind of this valve of hair and again based on the color, i'm going to start to now work about a one inch wide section here. I don't want this to be too thin. I want to pay attention to that natural separation at the crown, though, and i've got about a one inch section - i'm going to hold it quite low uh, because if i start to lift it, it's um it's going to take less of the weight out and i'm Going to start so, here's like my weight area on my weight line, even though it's not a line but start about an inch above that opening and closing, and go about an inch past and slowly slowly, taper this in again, these scissors are really great for this. It'S really what they originally designed for: uh, true dry cutting scissors. This was considered like a dry cutting technique, sliding slicing, tapering and working that in now letting that separate turn the scissor on the side so that you're a little bit more gentle and work a little bit further. Okay, again, as i do this, i'm going to over direct these sections back each time to build that weight behind the ear for the transition to the side. So if this this is the mirror, her nose is at the front she's straight forward. This was brought straight back. It wasn't lifted too too much, although i am going to lift a little bit more. As i work my way out, the more you lift the more gentle the weight removal. So in the center i was very low. That was my most aggressive lifting just a tiny bit more that'll help you protect. What'S at the bottom of this section, i want to say hello to travis smith, he's tuning in and saying hello is liking. Your hair cut your eyes, your 90s haircut nice good to have you here, buddy coming straight back again lifting higher, so you might ask: why am i lifting higher i'll turn this way as i lift higher the hair separates more when i'm lower it's more condensed and You'Ll cut through more when i lift higher, i can protect some of the hair on the outside and be a bit more gentle now, you'll notice. I also use a pinching technique. I find people sometimes struggle. They try to hold it traditionally and do this cal step back, so you can you're kind of holding it traditionally and doing this, which it's totally possible just never felt right to me. So what i did is i just started to just pinch. I really i like a lot of times pinching when i'm razor, cutting or working free form, i feel like. I have really good control and the body position. Alignment for me is so much better again. This is, you know a small part. It'S just this one little panel on the top we've got a lot of construction going on beneath it, and then we've just got this kind of free form at the top again last bit now this one just because how close it is to the outline i'm gon Na first kind of just technically cut some of it off i'll, explain that in a second i want to see that's probably still too much, but i want to make sure i've got that when i'm free, free handing, i don't take too much away again. I'Ve got plenty to work with in that area and i want to work on the top of the hair a bit and just kind of quite gentle, always you know just trying to keep extra weight right here right now. That'S basically that won't always stay there, but at this stage in the hair cut it well all right now repeating on the opposite side. Awesome vic is loving. It um she's, saying that she's learning so much from watching you, oh good. I'M glad you know guys if you have any questions you know. Obviously i can just kind of ramble on i love hair. Cutting i've been doing it for over 30 years now spend a lot of that time. Teaching um, but questions make it even for me just more interesting. You know i'd rather kind of see what you guys are thinking and see. If i can answer your questions, your thoughts on 90s hair as well and uh brian waldron is saying hello, hey brian buddy, hope you're doing well. You know i feel, like you know, i've been obviously through 20. 19. 19. 20 through 2020 um. You know i connected with a lot of you guys again, because we were doing lots and lots of education, and i feel like we're kind of coming out of it here, at least in the us, and definitely in california, we're at some of the lowest uh. You know infection rates or whatever that we've had in a very long time, so feeling positive and feeling like we're going to get back to real world. I'M wondering you know how many of you guys are ready for hands-on classes for shows. Quite a few of the big shows have started to schedule. Their dates and they've asked her brain. You know if we want to be involved, so you know i'm wondering what people are thinking. So let us know, are you ready to go to shows you're ready to take hands-on classes at shows and go to main stages and do all that fun stuff all right here, another form of slicing working, just kind of from the inside out many different names. I i like the name kind of controlled slicing, because you're really controlling the direction here and again opening it up, try not to lose any of that length there. I want something behind the ears to work with, but again working with the color and just working to create texture and again that's what these scissors are incredible. For i mean you can kind of really point cut with any scissor, let's be honest, but this really makes all the difference. The way that the blade pushes the hair brian is mentioning that he's opening up in downtown orlando, both a salon and a music venue. He says to bring hp down, yes correct, often it's more northern, so he must have re-uh re-situated himself. Relocated sounds like it all right. So now, we've got this whole front still got this disconnection here. One of the things i love to do to make this kind of relate is take a section from the from the parting and curve it around all the way into the back. This way, kind of in one fell swoop. I can get a nice cut. A nice visual and connect and connective between the back and the front again, you can see a few like little little bumps from the clipping. It'S always going to happen when you work with dry hair and clip it sometimes i'll, just put a little product in sometimes i'll run the iron back over. It really just kind of depends, but as long as it's not like creating a crazy weird like cowlick or something i mean as long as you're, not cutting super short, which is why i did the graduation more wet all right. So now. Looking at this, i really want to just kind of visualize where i want this to go, so i can start to deal with some of this overhang a little bit at a time so sculpting that, in into where i want the length to eventually set, you can See that's sitting over the graduation in this area, all right so now i want to continue that and make sure the head's in a fairly natural position here i'll work with the wider side of the comb. So i'm very natural, with my tension, release some of the tension here and continue that slight angle forward, not extremely steep. I mean obviously that's up to you and your eye and what your guest is looking for. For me, i've never been a huge fan of extremely a-line shapes, it's just what i what i find complimentary or not complimentary, but that's me it's up to you and, more than anything, it's up to your client what they like. So if someone really loves something extremely a-line i'll, probably be happy to do it for them, and with this very front, because i'm kind of working off of almost a center parting, i want to make sure that this hair is brought all the way over towards the Side of the cheekbone so that i don't round off the front, so i actually hold it in my hand and direct it over and blend it in cut it kind of where it's going to be worn, i'll, put a little bit of elevation and rotation on this. As well for what reason softening it lightening it again, i you know i wanted to get the balance in. So i was, i kept my point, cutting pretty shallow at first and now i can see where it's heavy and where it needs a little bit more lightness and refinement. So we can start to see that coming through it'll probably get a little lighter as we work. I'M going to take one more section for an outline start to see what's happening with this color as it drops over. Why did you choose to go a little bit deeper in the hairline uh? I wanted. You know enough of an outline. Typically, you want like at least two to three fingers above the ear before you start to do anything inside or it could get a little weak on the edge here. I might even go further than this. You know it's um. I was going to do some some layering above this point. I could also maybe do some free hands, i'm just going to kind of look at it and decide which way i want to go. I definitely don't want this to be. You know you could continue to work all the way through and just blend your whole outline in this way. If, for some reason, you wanted that front really kind of heavier much heavier than the back, i mean you know what i might as well just do it and then play with it from there like. If i drop what's left down, i could easily just continue to work. This in definitely is going to flow better with a little elevation, but just being constantly. You know until i feel like it's exactly where it needs to be. I'M always going to be careful right behind the ear where i want to get that bulb line. Basically, you could continue if you wanted to have that more one length feeling in the front you could just like boom, i'm going to definitely take more out and probably put some some layering through the through the sides, but this is going to come off anyway. So this will just make it easier. For me, boo is loving the color we do too lupe did an awesome job. Yes, lupe vlos, our dear friend first time seen. This is someone that we would see on the weekly for probably the last 15 years and then kovit just kind of shook up and up everybody's life right. So we didn't see each other for 13 months in person. We we we kept our face time up pretty pretty well yeah, so even before i layer it, i just want to make sure that my outline - because you know i don't want to have to go back and do too much extra work um. I have been kind of refining getting the shape in as i go, so i want to make sure the outline is loose enough. This is definitely a 90s thing where you can kind of get the hair flip it bend it over so that you can, especially if you're doing parallel point cutting. You can then follow the fan of it. It'S a great way to just loosen that up all this stuff on the top grab. It fan it out that doesn't look like it needs too much. Maybe a few of those longer pieces can come off just kind of going over the whole edge. You know, i think you know again back to the original idea here with what's happening for me personally, and i think for a lot of my companions and haircutting. What we discovered in the 90s was to break rules and that you know we first learned how to really follow all those rules which i to this day, i still really believe in. I would never want to see anyone even in their first. You know a couple of years of cutting hair just doing stuff like this um. I know it seems sexy and fun, but i you know if i could, i would say you know just think of this as aspirational and really focus on doing things. You know as clean and as balanced as you can as fundamental as you can it's you know it's like building a structure, a building the deeper the foundation is the taller you can build. You know if you want to build a hundred stories. The foundation goes down like 10 stories into the ground. You know you don't build a 100 story building and just have like no basement. You know it doesn't just start right there on the ground level. So again you can see one example of what this would look like a little bit weightier now. I just want to change it up a little bit and i want to just layer through here a little not completely, though i want to take a little pie section. Both for the color same thing, i'll keep this little pie section. Here'S supporting here's half of a pie we'll get that out of the way and then we'll think of this, like as an undercut for the side, i'm going to bring this hair up i'll start at the front. Since that's such a crucial point to make sure i don't lose that and i'm going to bring this hair right up towards the ceiling and i'm going to start to kind of break off this corner, this is going to make a real big difference on this side. I mean again, you may have liked it heavier and your guests might like it that way as well, but i always try to get things to be a little bit more form-fitting. And so that's what's happening here and then i'm just keeping that little band on the top that i can work with freehand and you see i even like what it's doing with the color there, because again it's exposing the dark base and it's also getting that hair To have more of like a nice bevel to it, so you don't just have like a that excess length coming over now, as i get into the back i'm going to over direct the hair forward, so it will soften the corner again, a little bit. Take a little again, this is directed forward towards about the middle of the ear and again we're just breaking off the corner. Michael kelly from scotland is saying, he's still cutting his his friend's hair. Like this awesome yeah i mean again, i don't. I don't think this kind of cutting ever went away. I just feel like it. We really kind of started doing it a lot in the 90s. It'S evolved, it's devolved, it's become simpler, it's become more complicated, it really depends on the person. Let'S be completely honest here, um, but yeah i mean you know just when you're doing these lives all the time. Sometimes you think well, what's a theme that could keep me interested and rather than like so last week they said. Oh, let's you know, keep seeing all this stuff about 90s haircuts and 90s style. Well, let's really examine at least let me examine, and hopefully other people will be interested in what i'm examining um what the 90s meant to me. What were the things that i took away from it all right? What i did there was casual, but so important line layers in between means there's a corner. Okay, i'd say it's probably one of the things that, for me makes my haircuts go from good to great. Is to know the result of um combining techniques and to know where there are corners that perhaps aren't adding anything to my haircut. You know if there's a corner somewhere, do i need it deliberately. Does it add to the shape, or does it take away from the shape? Does it take away from the style, ability and flexibility of the shape working, the line a little bit more now and just really sculpting through? I think i've taken this where it needs to be for the moment. Remember that little pie section, i want to drop that guy down, and you know i like that being a bit more one length than the rest of the shape again, a very 90s thing yeah, but maybe i'll just again use a little bit of that slicing. Okay. Let'S face it and the 90s were great for hair cutters just kidding. They were great for me, so just slicing a little bit off the top of that, but keeping that piece disconnected all right. If you missed it now, you can see it on the opposite side. Slightly smaller area, but the same idea: lola's loving the haircut, the stylus classic nice to see a different technique. Awesome lola thanks for tuning in and hanging out with us. You know thanks for mentioning, i will say for me: um. I'Ve done my fair share of weird hair in my career. At the end it was like you know. Why would anybody wear that and you say well, it's all you have to understand and i just as i've gotten kind of older, i want to say more mature. I don't really like or enjoy weird hair. I like to do simple things, but in perhaps a way that stimulates me stimulates the client. So you know yes, it's the 10 000 bulb i've cut this year, but there's a reason. You know i mean there's a reason. Hopefully, i've cut every single one, a little bit differently, so again, first working that line through from the back, giving myself plenty of extra crawl space. You know just kind of sneaking up on it a little over direction, a little over direction. Very, very slight angle. You know to me the most perfect a-lines are at the the line of the jaw anything steeper than the line of the jaw. Just from my eye, it's not right or wrong. It'S just establishing what what works for your eye, um. You know we kind of called the balance using the fingers here and continuing through that curve section. It'S just the the benefit here is it allows me to go right from the parting all the way through and in one section kind of get the flow of my line in, and you know just to keep it i'll do exactly what i did on the other Side i'll take probably about three curved sections work. My outline in with elevation and freehand then do a little undercutting of that kind of layering. So here i was elevating a little bit more. You know. Elevation will create graduation. Graduation will create softness in this case so that the line isn't as blunt or heavy and again just being sure with that front piece to cut it in front of the ear behind the apple of the cheekbone. You know if i cut it out here when that hair dries the front of it. I mean it is dry, but when that hair is styled, the front of it can look rounded off, like you'll lose that if i cut it here, if you have a little too much well that's less of a problem because you know you can kind of whittle It down going a little deeper. You know. You'Ve got different types of precision that happen when you work this way. You know you go. You'Ve got your shape. Obviously your shape's much more shattered, but the amount, the depth, the angle of the scissor, the amount that you go into the hair. It'S a whole nother kind of form of precision that you know some people appreciate and some people don't. But i mean it's easy to remove more weight on one side less on the other, to create a different direction with your scissor or razor. So it's a different form of precision. You know here where we're still kind of geometric - i mean you know there are some forms of cutting that i do that. I don't feel have any geometry to them at all, but for me personally, every type of cutting i do has precision to it. Even when i try not to you know, sometimes i've had like a wig or something that i've had to cut, and you want to make it look very diy or you know just like something, and i just i can't get away from it. It'S so ingrained in me, okay, last piece for the outline here again. I know a lot of this is going to get um changed, but if you did want to just kind of stay with a heavier shape in the front and didn't want to do any of the undercutting or freehand you could you get a you know, a nice Shape through the back and then you get weight in the front, something kind of like that might be a little more refining to get it just right. But you kind of have like that, vibe to it where what i'm going to do is just take another half of a pie on this side of the parting. So that's what i mean. That'S our parting. I just kind of took a pie out works beautifully with the collar. It'S one of you know. I'Ve worked so many we've never obviously discussed this at all. Lupe did this, for i don't know something completely different um, but i think we've worked together so much that we think about head shape the same and that really affects placement. You know yes, if you tune in if you find your scroll back and find her video from yesterday, she talks a lot about. It might be good for you guys yeah yesterday, lupe did a facebook live right here, full of tips. I think the best colorists in the world and also the best friend in the world um and she did an incredible job yesterday and she's every thursday for the next few weeks, we'll be here on hp, live and then hopefully i'll get the mannequins and i'll be Able to cut them all right so, as i did on the other side now starting at the front, because i want to make sure i keep that corner coming up, taking off the internal weight here and starting to lighten, as i get towards the back everything past. The middle of the ear will just get over directed to the front and get taken off, so it won't change the back too much, but it will break the corner, see like just this little bit here now. I definitely think i was a little more light-handed in my texturizing on this side than it was on the first. So i don't want to start boring you guys and being here too long, but i'm going to go through one more time here and make sure that i've got a good consistency and then all that's left, i think, is uh to do a little slicing on that Top piece and we'll have his hair cut down down and dusted, as we used to say i'll, probably add a little bit of slicing in right. Now i didn't really check for balance. I don't have a mirror here, so i've just been kind of hoping using the facial structure, all right, pretty good. My second side has a little bit extra length at the bottom, which is good because i haven't finished the outline yet so that feels pretty good again. This is what we're looking for. This is the first side and then i'll be able to refine both sides of the outline together. So what's left to do here, i drop down that last bit gon na work. In with some slicing. I think this side needs a little bit more just the way that the hair falls. The way the color falls on the one side. I just really kind of did the very front, but this it also has to do with the parting not to get too much into fundamental theory. But you know the light side of the parting um. When you have internal shape will tend to look heavier because the hair has less of a distance to travel. Our girl rayna is uh tuning in and saying hello made in color. I thought you might like this one rayna yep kicking some kind of uh fun. Freehand technique here very inspired by you know, i think, what we really kind of started to play around with in the 90s at least. I know when i started to play around with the 90s quite a bit and i think a lot of my fall hairdressers who've been around. That long will remember right. So, like lifting up, i can see the consistency here from side to side and again slicing controlled, slicing, opening closing without closing all the way kind of pushing through the extra bits. Not much leia is loving. It seems like the rest of the audience is too all right, i'm sure someone's hating it, because that's not yet not somebody that hates something not yet right. No angry faces yet gerard, no too bad. All right! I'M gon na put a little bit more of this cream in and then you know the thing when you cut like this is you know, there's no ending point where it's like. Okay, i made my final connection. You know you kind of have to keep looking at the hair and deciding do i need to go with more. Did i go in enough to you know what exactly is the point? So this is a a cream, it's actually quite quite a heavy cream um. It'S made mostly for silk presses, but i kind of like it because i like that, like dirty look for this, it was also something that was very 90s. You know we had this kind of talk about lived in hair. It was when we first started to like not shampoo, hair at all and tell people, oh, you know, don't use shampoo, don't wash your hair for a month. It was kind of a thing believe it or not, but product has gotten a lot better since then. So you know if you have curly hair or textured hair, colored hair, you can shampoo your hair and not lose it, but i digress so looking for that balance, i like that little bit of haziness through the back here, you can see the deep bass working into This angle, on the side, so john, would you consider this a bob? I would you know it's kind of a graduated bob. You know because it's you see the stack um. I would and i don't want you know. I don't know what else you could possibly call it. I'M sure someone could tell me something all right. Little finals here, you can kind of do a little checking bring that back. You know the one limitation of the hair being a little iron before you start cutting. I mean you could send her back and get it rinsed down or whatever, but you're a little bit limited with the the finishing texture. So you see, i just put those clips there just to help me check any like little final pieces. I mean, if you do this and cut off a lot of hair, probably something's, not quite right, but that's just helping me check that angle. David is coming through with a name for us. Okay, a deconstructed graduated bob with an undercut; okay. That'S it! That'S the winner! Also known as a bob yeah, you know, i think it all depends on the person. I mean some of us like to um, really kind of build on the vocabulary and i have to say i did at certain points in my career, but i don't know if i've just gotten old and jaded. I don't like too many terms, but i i think it really does help and for some people it makes the biggest difference in the world. But for me i just you know all right. I think i got it. You know i'll probably leave these clips in you know, maybe i could put a little heat on and just also try to. I mean i always like this little kick here. You know, so i could try to sculpt this hair a little bit. It'S probably not going to do much because it's flat iron, so straight truth is it was also when lupe gave it to me. It had like a curling iron set in it and i was like well. I don't want to cut it with a curling iron set. So i had a curling iron set that i then flat ironed out, so it's probably not going to do much, but there you have it another 90s inspired technique from a guy that learned how to cut hair in the 90s. I hope you guys enjoyed that and i'll be coming back to you again next week with some more haircutting peace out.