Short Graduated Bob Haircut Step By Step | Layered Bob Haircut

And I want to talk about design and consistency, you know being consistent and your methodology is going to be really important, especially when you are approaching any sort of new haircut that you're going to do on a client behind the chair when we are working. I want to focus on a few things number one exactly what I'm, what I'm doing and working in a place where I can see what I'm doing I've seen many many times when we are working and you are either too high and you're bending over too low Or you're too low looking up high and you can't really see your work, but I really want to focus on is being able to see your work to working in very neat. Not only will it make your haircuts look better in the long run, but it'll actually speed up your time, because you don't have to go back and guess where you, where the start finishes and number three practicing consistency. I think that is one of the key things that we can work on as Haircutters behind the chair is being consistent. How many of you have had a client come in and say you know that haircut thing he gave me two times ago. That was perfect. Can you do that again? Well, you're, like what did I do so as long as you kind of work on the foundations, you won't ever get into that that problem of inconsistency, so we're gon na start on our graduation here and we're gon na get going so based on what I said, The constants we're gon na work on having constant moisture in the hair, we're gon na work on constant working with our tools, which is our comb in our shears today, and we're going to talk about constant finishing as well. So we're going to start with sectioning sectioning for diagonal haircuts is very, very important. Now I'm going to go through this and I'm going to section the hair for you, I'm gon na turn this you can see all right so working nice and neat. Now we created a center part for you guys and now we're gon na go in and get our haircut ready now. Working nice and neat is key, so I'm going to take even sections and I'm gon na get this hair out of the way. Now one key feature of working nice and neat - you guys is perception behind the chair. Not only is it being perceived from your client that you know what you're doing, because you're working nice and neat, it also gives that perception of everybody else around you. Okay, so we're gon na remove this hair, we're gon na get it out of the way. Okay, I'm gon na work on the other side, we're gon na get rid of it, rid of that hair all right. There we go now that we have our subsection. I went from occipital bone down and what we're gon na do is then create a parting to start our haircut now, how we're gon na do this we're gon na take another center section. Okay, get that hair out of the way again, another center section get that hair out of the way. Now what I want to do is start one inch above the hairline and I'm going to section to the corner of the hairline okay. So I'm going one inch up to the corner and let that hair down I'm going to remove get this hair out of the way. Okay on the other side, if that hair is in your way, let's just tuck that away we'll get back to that real soon. All right, so here's our first section of hair now this is going to be the most important cut that we do in this entire haircut, because this is our guide for the entire thing, and the great thing about this is working Rep working with the repetition we Have our diagonal section right here, which is very nice and clear for you guys to see one inch above the hairline down to the corner and we are going to take that hair and we are going to start our haircut now a lot of times what we Would do is take our comb place it into the hair and start a guide for the haircut. Well, we're actually going to be creating our shape and then placing our perimeter line at the very end. So what we're gon na do is we're gon na start. This off and I want you to really look at it, where my sectioning is okay, so I have my diagonal line right here. That is going to be my that is going to be my section for the initial cut, and it also will be my guide for the rest of the haircut. So starting here. We'Re gon na pick up this hair and I'm gon na pick the hair up exactly at the angle of which my section is section power. So I'm going to pick that hair up, I'm gon na place my fingers and I really want to look at tension because we're talking about consistencies right, we're talking about consistency with our tension notice that I'm only using the wide teeth of the comb, keeping consistency with The moisture content is consistent, the sectioning is going to be consistent and my diagonal line is going to stay consistent all throughout the haircut. So now that I have my section in place, I'm going to pick that hair up I'm gon na hold it. I'M gon na bring the hair down now. This is where you get to choose where you want to start building that line and that weight of our diagonal graduation, I'm gon na bring this down about two inches and I'm gon na. Take this, I'm at the exact angle of my section, I'm gon na comb that down now immediately when you start taking that section, you're gon na see that graduation in place, okay and so right off the bat. Our first cut is the guide for the rest of the haircut now. What I'm gon na do is take my next section, one inch above down to the corner of the hair line, I'm going to bring that hair down. Now my hair is starting to get a little bit drying out. What do we do for that? Take our water bottle, give it a nice mist. I don't want the hair to be dripping. Wet. I'M gon na move around on the hair down. I'M gon na scoop that hair up at the same angle that I did in the previous section bring that hair down. I have my previously cut section here. That'S my guide. Looking underneath there's my guide cut the hair and let the hair down calm the hair down to start building that shape. So you can see it doing this, and fluffing is not going to do anything for us. What we want to do is have concise combing. To start showing us that graduation and you can start seeing it right there, okay next section, I'm going to go back and forth on this mannequin head to show you this technique, because it is important to have consistency. So I'm going to do a section on one side and then work to the next side. Get that hair out of your way, I'm gon na take a one-inch section following the same sectioning that I initially did now. People ask all the time: do they always have to be one-inch sections? Absolutely not you can take whatever hair is allowed, depending on thickness density. This is mannequin hair. So we can take our standard one-inch sections. Now next section I'm going to split it off right in the middle, just like we did it underneath I'm gon na place. My comb at the same angle that I did previously I'm gon na place. My fingers into the hair I'm gon na, have then find my guide underneath found. My guide take that hair away. Okay, following my god again instantly seeing that graduation line right there now since we're placing our graduation in first, we are going to be able to start building in that weight line here. Once we get to the occipital bone, we are no longer going to be bringing any higher than that, but at the end we're going to be placing our line at the very end. So that way we won't have any sort of inconsistency when we place that line. Now I don't know about you guys. This also helps us with never taking off too much hair okay. So when you initially place your line for a haircut and that line is too short, where you can't get that hair back. So this helps us bring in the weight line, create the shape internally then place the line at the end, all right again, we're going to bring it down, find our guide underneath. Take that hair away a lot of people ask about cross checking. How do you check that really easy guys so you're gon na take a horizontal section, pull it out to you if it is straight which mine is you're in good luck? If you start checking hair and you're cutting off lengths like this, you might have lost your place. Okay, now that we have a nice solid shape right there, we're gon na keep building that up. I'M gon na get this no higher than occipital bone and then we're gon na follow this all the way through on both sides going back and forth. So we can stay consistent, so we don't lose ourselves within the haircut. Let'S get after it all right, Margo Therese! What'S up girl how you doing today, Shannon? How are you mark Dolman how you doing buddy haha, hey guys, glad you could make it it's a beautiful day in Minneapolis Janelle? How are you doing hon Daisy from Belgium? How are you I have some amazing artists here and a bunch of lots of educators? I love that as well. Okay, again guys, we take our one-inch section. We have our diagonal angle, making sure we have constant moisture within the hair section, this right down the middle and we're going left to right, hat hugs to you, Shannon all right any questions out there without other than just saying: hey, nothing, yet cool! Well, kick back and relax, giving you some hair cutting skills here. So, as we were working up the head, our our sections are getting wider and wider. So what we're gon na have to do is split them and work into two different pieces here. So I'm gon na split that off again I'm taking hair from underneath okay at the same angle of as my section, so I'm placing my comb at the same angle as that section that I that I made I'm not going at a horizontal, I'm keeping everything constant At a diagonal, my sectioning, my Clos, mean everything is at a diagonal, find my guide. Take that hair off now put that down and see that graduation build. You know the great thing about this haircut and this technique is the fact that you can use whatever tool you want to use. You can use a razor, you can do you can chip away at it? Okay, you can cut everything blunt like I'm doing right now and as you can see, we're cutting that graduation in and I think it's really important to talk to you guys about graduation and cutting graduation as a technique and not a haircut. I'M not teaching you guys. A haircut even though, at the end we will have a finished product. What I'm teaching you is to properly use gred diagonal graduation in with what we do behind the chair, to make it easier for you guys and make sense. There'S my guide under me: okay, making sure my finger placement is exactly where it needs to be. There'S my guide: bring the hair down and cut you notice, I'm not cut cut, cut, cut, cutting it's making one clean cut being sure about what I'm cutting and then moving on all right. Taking my section finding my guide underneath there. It is what, if you don't want as steep of a graduation. Well, that's the thing this is not going to turn out into you know, get your manager haircut, Jon and Kate, Plus eight. What this is going to turn into you is a short bob. So if you don't want that high of graduation lower your lower your fingers more now, this haircut could be done technically, vertically, okay or horizontally. If you're going to take very small sections and pull everything out, you could cut this vertically, diagonally or horizontally. So to answer your question: if you don't want it that stacked up, do not you can lower your fingers and just have lower elevation. That'S it okay, again taking a one-inch section. The nice thing about this is showing you guys. The building weight aspect of this haircut is the trick and the technique. What we're going to be doing at the end of this is showing you how to minimize minimize the weight, because, although we're seeing some very strong structure, haircuts right now, we might be able to soften this up or we'll be able to soften it up the way You see fit okay again, I'm going to take this section of hair fine. My guide now look at my fingers. They'Re at the same angle as that section, I want you to notice the tension that I'm putting on that hair as well. You don't see any bubbles. You don't see any loose loose hairs: okay, it's it's very constant and my guide and it's very neat. Okay, take that hair away. Seeing that graduation happening, Shannon says if this was any cleaner, she'd call you a sturgeon. Oh Shannon. I miss you, Shannon she's, the most positive woman on social media. I swear all right so building that graduation. In remember, this is not the all haircut. This is a technique. You guys what we're going to be doing is placing a line at the very end to create the haircut so hi asks. Do you always keep the head upright while doing a graduation? You know I do for this part of the haircut. For that's a really good question: hi. Thank you. What I would do at the very end, I may put her chin down just to clean up the neckline, but I like to cut there how the hair Liz and nobody, I know walks around with their chin down. So cutting the hair up right and how it lives helps me dictate where and what I'm doing easier and better okay again taking my diagonal sections. This is where things we get past the round of the head, and so we're going to start getting to towards the front of the hair. So guadalupe asks you have sharp scissors. What brand are you using okay? So the thing about shears is use. What works well, for you, keep them maintained. I have a few. These particular ones are my Hanzo shears. I also like my arc shears, which are really really great as well. I hope that answers your question. These are seven inch shears that I'm using. I also use them in six and a half and six is okay. You can see there start on this side. I'M gon na build that shape. Go ahead. Liz said I love this cut, I'm and I have to get a mannequin and do it. You know. I really hope you duel is because the one thing that it'll help you is keeping consistent motions that you're going through without that throughout the haircut. What we're doing is it's a practice of technique, not learning a specific haircut. I think graduation is one of those great things that if you take a bag back to the Sassoon days, it never goes out of style. You see graduation in every haircut that you see on social where most haircuts, you see on social there's some aspect of graduation. Now I just noticed that this hair up front is getting a little dry. Okay, again, consistency it! Let sweat that down as I'm pulling on that hair, the elasticity stays the same. Now when we start moving into the front. What I want you guys to notice is I'm pulling everything back to a visual straight off the head at that corner of the hairline. So even this hair way up here gets brought back to a visual right there at the hairline again, okay, so another question, so Brenda says you have special dry cutting shears, or can they be used for wet Andrea this years that you're using you know, I completely Respect the idea of having wet to dry shears. For me, I like to use a shear that is multifaceted, that I can use, wet and or dry and so for me know, Jessica said that you taught her this haircut in Fargo and she loves it. Oh Jessica, how are you mark Dolan was wondering who's, lovely voices asking the questions. Okay, so and Tim Lanza said it's the voice of a tiny angel. I just added the word technique. Oh so everybody, this is Courtney Warford, my absolutely better half partner and crime partner. In life, she is helping facilitate this class. Couldn'T do it without her again following exactly what we did on both sides, creating that graduation getting this pair out of the way repeat on the other side, adding some moisture, because again, we want to keep our sectioning constant. Our moisture constant and if we let this get dry, what will happen will have inconsistency within the haircut any more questions. Do you find it easier to cut left to right or right to left, depending on whether you're, left-handed or right-handed? Does that matter? You know, I think, that's a really great question and thank you for asking. If you noticed, I started this haircut on my left side and then I went to my right and then I started again on the left going to my right. But then I started on the right going back to my left and so for me to mix it up that way. It'S just a way to keep myself honest, because we all have a strong side right, a side that we're more comfortable with when you start mixing up that side, it makes you think more exactly how you're holding that hair within the section, and so for me, that's Kind of my little my little two cents and how I keep myself consistent within the section, so thank you for asking okay taking my section down Diana asks: does it matter where your client parts their hair? You know it does and what I would say is cut off that part line. Just like a long, layering Erica, gia says, Michael the way you section your coma Seoul price, precise. He loves it. Thanks girl miss you hope, California's treating you well, alright. You know it's one of those things about being consistent within your work, and I think that it's very, very important for us to practice our craft and you know haircutting, is such a craft and it started in a place that, like for this building graduation as a Haircut well, this to me is more of a technique because I can use what I'm doing here in so many different ways: okay, again taking a section pulling it down, I'm not going any higher than that occipital bone, because if I do what's gon na happen, you're Gon na have a haircut and that's gon na definitely need to go, see and talk to the manager number one, and that's not really what I'm looking for. So finding my guide very nice and neat right there. You can see it right through that hair. I'M gon na go in and I'm gon na take one cut, calling that hair down, I'm not fluffing it up. You guys, I'm not trying to see what kind of hot mess I can make out of this. I'M just trying to create a very, very nice neat clean shape that I can then go into and customize per my client bringing everything back to that corner see the guy at underneath right there again, I can fit a lot of hair in my hands. If you can't take this in sections, okay, pulling that down nice and neat, as you can see very clean graduation right there we're building that wait. So then we can go in and place our finished lines. So this isn't going to look like a huge stacked haircut at the end, because when I place my line, I end up going in right about there. Okay, okay, we're gon na switch around who does Genevieve Genevieve miss you too girl. I got people from Austin, Texas, Costa Rica, Costa Rica. What'S up Austin greetings from Minneapolis, it's still cold here, but we're getting through just like everybody else, okay, so going to the other side, what's the brand of your spray bottle? What'S the brand of my spray bottle? Can be, is it started buddy, Sam Dena? Here we go works well. I know that there's other brands that do the exact same thing, but these misters, I think, is a one way to distribute moisture into the hair better than traditional old-school here: hairspray bottles or water bottles. That'S that's very like a pump hairspray hello from Tammy, Zimmermann German and Bulgaria Chris from Indiana all right, you guys so finding my guide underneath bringing the hair back to that corner there. There'S our guide! Take that hair away again comb that hair down, keep it nice and neat yeah. The great thing about this is when we're working this technique again we're not working the haircut right. So this is a way to put into a shape, and the nice thing is is, at the very end, we're gon na place our perimeter. That way, you can be really consistent because, like I said mentioned earlier, you know it's happened to all of us at least once where you initially place your line and you're like we're just going to do a little undercut that wasn't supposed to be that short and So, for us, placing the line at the end is a great way to keep it consistent and also too you know if you're, a big dry care cutter, you can place your graduation blow-dry the hair and then place your line. There are no rules, far no rules. So James asks some people like to use texturizing thinning shears to blend their graduation. What are your thoughts for sure? You know, I think it's you can use whatever you need to use to get the job done. I personally James and not a big thinning, shear user or texturizing shear user. For me it's I do use them, but I'm not not big on texturizing shears to soften lines. The nice thing about diagonally is that, instead of doing a horizontal graduation to build weight and or vertical graduation over directing everything back to a corner and cutting on a diagonal is creating softness. So when I'm done doing the graduation portion of this - and I go in - and I cut my line - it's actually gon na have some softness, so it takes away some of the work that I need to do at the tail end of this haircut to customize it And soften it up, who are some of the stylists that inspire your precise cutting skills? You know one of my one of my favorites is Oscar bond. Former Lanza creative director Sassoon worked out size to him in London. He'S also a Hanzo educator right now, but he's a very precise precision, hair cutter and I feel like once you understand and know the rules you can break them and so by working our craft in creating precision, graduation precision, layering precision, blunt lines like that's when you Can then expand and get super creative and be all funky with your haircuts? If you choose to do so that answer the question, anybody else questions no again, I'm gon na go to this side. I'M gon na bring everything back to what my corner. Here we go. This is the easy part guys because there's not as much hair left - and I have a very strong guideline so take that cut everything down to my guide, which is the corner of that hair line, which is right here. That'S where I want to bring the hair to so Liz asks. Do you prefer a razor like a straight razor one with no guard to a thinning shear? I will use a razor with a guard when I'm working behind the chair simply because it's safer, you know, I hope that answers that question Genovese says one of the best cutting classes ever was you and Oscar bond changed my haircut game for life? See old school love that again last last piece here there we go now again we're gon na we're gon na ask ourselves: there's our graduation cross-checking. How do we do that? I'M going to pick up a section of hair in the back, I'm gon na bring it out. That is straight great. If you're picking up and having you cut pieces like this, you've really lost herself within the haircut. But what did we do to not get lost? Within the haircut? We took diagonal sections on both sides. We brought the hair to our stationary guide, which was no higher than occipital bone. We scooped the hair in the exact same way that we did section in it. So I had the same diagonal line. Our fingers were parallel with that we cut our hair, cut the hair once and finished all the way through now that we got to both sides and take a little cross-check we're good, because we brought everything back to its its place now. What do we do if it's off a little bit? Well, that's okay, because what you're going to be doing is placing that perimeter at the end. What I really want to focus on is if this is where it needs to be which it is so now what you've been waiting for. We'Re gon na place our line. Okay, I'm gon na comb. Everything down with intention, look at where the hairline is. We got up a bit of working room here, but I want to keep it pretty short, so I'm gon na take it just below where the hairline is I'm going to place. My comb, I'm gon na, go straight and take that airway all right. Can you do the same cut with thin and fine texture? Absolutely the thing about it is: you are gon na take much larger sections, which will then the haircut go a lot faster. Okay, what you see is, I am placing the hair within the comb right, bringing that down following the head shape, but then we have all this hair in here. Do you simply take your shears underneath it give it a little tap, get it nice and neat, and even we're gon na go in. Take that hair away? Okay again turn the hair turn the head, and this is where we're placing our line you guys. So we have all this hair and we have an option if they don't have a lot of hair. You can maybe do it in one section for me. I might want to split this up. All right. Follow our guide. Take our shears put it, give it a little tap. Take that heroin. What'S your favorite haircutting technique, favorite haircutting technique. That'S it that's a good one. I don't know if I have one, but I feel like if there is a genre of haircutting that I really enjoy doing. I would say that it is precision, haircuts and or anything that I can incorporate anything that I can incorporate, making a shape from something completely different. You know I'm doing doing. A trim is great, pays the bills, but when you can have a project and it's to do a major transformation, I think that's when that makes it a lot of fun. For me, I'm I previously cut section right there: okay, it's starting to look a lot better right. We have our graduation there, our nice clean line, rounding the head, seeing our previously cut hair. Now this is one thing that I think is really important. Is that when we are working around the face, you want to stretch that hairline and what that means little moisture. What that means is we're following the hairline okay. So that way, when we place our line, it doesn't jump up okay. So if you call them this straight down and if I was to cut this once it dried, it would end up up here. Okay, that's what we're gon na do is stretch the hairline mark. Dolan at last, you know when was the last time you brought sexy back, Oh dull, and it never went away, but so that's just what we have. We have our graduation put in place all the way around. We have our very clean line. I'M going to do the other side and then I'm going to show you the finished results, because I have a finished head waiting for you. It looks really nice again, keep things nice and clean okay place. Our calm follow our guide. Now we're wrapping up time. Here. You guys I'd love to answer any more questions that you guys have about graduation and or embarrassing. Questions like mark Dolan asked me stretching that very long. Gennadiy says Michael Dahl, you weren't truly one of the most well rounded stylists. I know what can't you do. Oh a lot of fans Margot says she loves seeing the shape secret behind the chair every day and can't wait until we can get back in the salon. You know I can't wait either Margot, and you know the great thing is I work with and next to some amazing artists in the industry. Margot and Marc are two of them. Captain Weston big ups to her and everybody else. You know, so it really really works. Well, for me to be inspired by the people around me, and I think that that's that's the trick is being inspired by the people around you all right. Looking all right, you guys so now that we got through the haircut placed our lines. She'S wet she's got a really nice strong shape and everything that what everything was cut and blunt right, I didn't use any texturizing techniques yet, but there you can see it has a nice rounded shape a nice clean line. Here, it's consistent. How does that look for you guys, yeah, so, based on what we learned? Thank you is taking a step back and looking at what we're doing in a systematic way. Okay, we're creating graduation, whether it is stat, graduation or very soft. Graduation like this is this is going to be a short version of a long haircut, which will have the ability to grow out and be a very beautiful long bob over time, and so this is a great way to keep it fresh. Keep it new and different. Thank You Liz, and this is the exact same haircut that I just did and zero texturising. So when you ask you know how about texturizing, you know if you're doing it in a way where you're creating softness within the haircut itself. It has a very, very strong shape without the texturizing, which can definitely work if you want to personalize it and make it textured. You can do that as well. So for today my question and my hope for you guys, is to practice your craft. You know going into a haircut going to a technique and do something that you wouldn't normally do diagonal. Graduation is one of those things that is a great tool to have in your back pocket for when you need it and so from us at evolution. Thank you. So much it's been a blast. If you have questions kind of hit me up on Facebook, Instagram on the lawns up page as well and I'll answer all of your questions. But I hope you guys have a great day. Let'S all get through this florentine together and we'll see you soon. He said you