One Length Bob Haircut Tutorial

So today, we're gon na cut a one-length bob really excited to share with you guys this technique, a lot of you guys were asking for it. We'Re gon na go through all the different technical things that create a really nice one, like Bob choice of tools. Today, what we're going to be using is a YS Park is the widest Park. Three 3:9 comb really like this one for precision cutting and then I'm using the same scissors yesterday. This is the scissor that Mizutani made for me. There'S a few left on free song. Education, calm, if you want one, don't know if it'll ever be there again, what I really want to focus on first is this: the sectioning sectioning is very simple. I started off right where the parting is, on the left hand, side. We took that section all the way down and then once I got to the crown area, that's where I shift this line to a slight diagonal and then go right down the center back and then after I create that line in the center back. I go from the occipital bone across to just behind a little bit below the ear and a slight diagonal forward line. Alright, so again you want to make sure you have even saturation when you're trying to create a precise line. You don't want some of the hair to to be dry, some of it to be wet dry, hair shrinks a little bit so make sure that when you're doing the part that you want to be precise, that you have even saturation throughout so with body positioning, I Want to have the head nice and high almost like chest level with me. The way that I do this in the salon is a lot of times. The chair doesn't quite go this high I'll sit, so I can get my eyes kind of level with the haircut. The biggest mistake that we make as hair cutters is a lot of times, we'll kind of tilt ourselves to cut a line to get our head kind of down. And when you do that, you tilt your eyes and when you tilt your eyes it's hard to cut a straight line anytime, you're cutting feet should be pretty much square with your shoulders. Bend your legs into it, keep your back straight! So you're not hunched over like this cutting, then you keep your eyes flat your eyes, parallel with your scissor, and then you cut your line. That'S going to give you a straighter line across I'm going to use the wide teeth of the comb as little tension as possible. Hold the in the comb. Just like this, I'm gon na go about a half an inch from the hairline. For me, the longer you go, the harder it is that you're gon na get that stack or that kind of it's gon na get too bulky. You could cut on one length as long as you wanted, but for me like, when you're in the grocery store - and you see that person that has that really blunt haircut and it just looks weirdly stacked in the back and really thick. A lot of that comes from length, choice and density, so about an inch or half an inch from the hairline and I'm gon na come through here everything parallel and start my line now, I'm not gon na go too extreme with the first bit of the cut. I just want to start to get my guide in there. Then I'm gon na come through my eyes are level, I'm not even combing at this point and I'm gon na continue that line across just using the tip of the scissor to cut through the reason I use the tip of the scissor and not all of the Scissor is because, once the hair ends up in this area of the blade it starts to push the weight. So if I came in here and I just kind of started hacking at the hair, it would push that and then I would get a weird line. So I go in just with the tip and work my way across I'm shifting my body because of the fact that I'm trying to show you guys in the salon. I would not be walking around like this, so I combed the hair down. I keep my eyes square and I go through and I cut and continue that line. If I wanted to follow the head shape around then I would just continue this line through. I want to bring this hair back just a slight bit a little bit of over direction, so what I'll do is I'll slide my scissor up under and my comb and I'll pull it back towards me and then follow through with my cutting that way. What that will do is just push a little bit of weight into this corner area, so I'll do the same thing. On the opposite side. I'Ve got this little bit left here. So I'll pick it up slide my comb up underneath tap it down into the comb and then I'm gon na go back hand across just like that. So now I want to look at my line. If this tie line doesn't work, then you don't want to move forward, because the whole entire haircut will be off at that point, so you can step back. Take a look at it make sure that those lengths are good anytime. I lift this and pull it back. That over Direction gives a little bit of elevation. So then, when you drop it down, you'll see some of those little hairs. That kind of stick out. I just take a slight bit of that off, not a lot of it, and I want to keep that line. I want to keep that length, but I just clean it up a little bit all right. I'M gon na work at about a half inch at a time straight across on the head, so nice clean parting comb it down, get this hair over and then I slide. My clip up underneath the hair just like that and that helps hold it up and tight out of the way. The other thing I'm not doing is I'm not tilting the head too much forward. It'S just a slight tilt forward. Really, I'm that's just because we're working on a one length, so I want to make sure that I'm constantly looking at it from the way that she's gon na be wearing and really what I'm looking for is. I want this hair to rest up against the other hair comb this down just like that, and then I go through and cut the first bit and then on the edge in the corner. I slide my comb up underneath and I cut across just like that. Now I like to go both sides and work through because I'm cutting this all square in the back. I don't mind kind of working my way back and forth, making sure that it looks nice and balanced the whole way through all right last bit slide that comb underneath again just using that tip. Now, if I was going to create a graduated Bob, I would do pretty much exactly what I just did and then at this point, when I get over the occipital bone, I would start to slightly elevate the hair, bringing it up to this part. A lot of people start their graduation right away, which is fine, but for me I like to have a little bit of extra density down at the bottom, because the head shape curves in and then as the head shape, starts to curve away. That'S when I start to elevate it because, right now you can see, I really have a nice light kind of shape to it because of the head shape. So you got to take into consideration what the head shape is doing and how that affects your haircut. All right so comb tension coming through cutting and then underneath lift, and this will be a little repetitive as I work through it, but then we're gon na blow it dry and I'll. Do some dry cutting detail work, so you guys can see that as well. So now we're coming around to where it's gon na tie into the temple area. So I take another parting and this one comes all the way around the head. Then I'm going to figure out where the kind of the corner is in the head shape. That'S what I'm gon na over-direct back to me a slight bit, so I look at where that corner is. I bring that back to me just a little bit. There cut my line, I let that fall. That kind of preserves that corner - and this is where you want the head to be definitely nice and straight. So I comb this down, and now I'm gon na take my line just like this around to the front again just using the tip of the scissor and we're gon na create a flat line today. But you could angle this line. If you wanted to, it just depends on what you're looking for I'm also gon na continue on this entire side, and I'm just following this guideline now so straight across there and then cutting a nice blunt line right now. There is no tension, barely at all in this haircut, I'm just lightly combing it down. Looking at where my guide is and going through and cutting when I blow it dry, that's when I'm going to you know, do a little bit more detail work. All of that, but you can see how nice and blunt that line is really that's, because there was no tension. If I had a ton of tension on this, if I pull this down and you see with tension, see how kind of jagged that line is that's where, if I would have cut it, it would have popped up and then the line would have been jagged how She wears it how it wants to fall. Naturally, now here's what's going on in the back, I'm now working on the heavy side of the haircut. This is where all of the density is. You definitely want to make sure that the head is straight as you're moving. It around make sure your guest doesn't turn her head. So now, once I get the cut there, I cut straight across and now I'm going to cut in keeping a little bit of that corner, not a lot but a little bit following that guide and now here's the other thing now that I've cut this this side And I also have my reference on the other side. Now I'm gon na look at it and make sure that they're balanced, just pray to the gods. It'S now I'll continue through comb, the hair in the direction. I want to part it and work my way around. The head, alright, so again, tilts it just slightly keeping what I'm working on flat in front of me, my eyes level little tension and working through all right. Now, I'm gon na comb, all the hair into its natural fall. So I comb it into its natural fall. Want to make sure I can see my guide through, and it's really important within the crown area, to make sure that all that hair is falling, naturally how it wants to fall right, so not forcing it over to the side, making sure that you work that cowlick And wherever the hair is going to fall on its own is where you comb it down to, and then I go through here and I work my line across so now. We'Ve got our blunt line, so what I'm gon na do is I'm gon na do a flat wrap I'm going to. This is actually a new product from joy cow blonde life, even though this isn't super blonde brilliant tone, violet, smoothing foam. So the cool thing about this, give it to your blondes and it's a purple foam to tone their hair while they blow it dry. I want to put that through the hair. I can put it through the hair with my hands, but then the last little bit that I'm gon na do is brush it through. So we get the product on everything see where the parting is here. I don't want to work this parting in anytime. I'M trying to work something into its natural fall. What I do is I wrap it around the head and I work that part back and forth. I don't want a part in there because I want to create even volume throughout the entire top of the head. So I can push the hair wherever I want it to go at the end, so I'm gon na start my flat wrap around working it up and over for the person that doesn't want the hair in the face. This is a good just kind of up and over just like this, and then you can work it back around the other way and then back around the opposite. The brush that I'm using is the Paul Mitchell 4:13, and this has a really light tension to it. So it allows their still to be a good amount of volume in the hair and it detangles really nice as well for this particular air cut. I don't want to maybe that too flat to the head, so I'll leap through it, so I kind of blow-dry it over and then I grab a little section of the hair and lift it and blow dry through comb over lift it blow-dry through notice. The airflow is going over top of the hair cuticle. That'S gon na lay it down, make it nice and shiny, keep away the frizz if you're constantly working up the hair, it's just gon na open up that cuticle and make the hair frizzy. So it's key to make sure that you're just constantly wrapping it air flow going down notice. My blow-dryer doesn't even move my brush does all of the work same thing flat, wrap up and over and what you're doing is you're initially you're, taking the hair, giving it a little bit of volume, but using the head as a roller and giving it a little Slight Bend so watch as I blow-dry this over and it starts to dry and when I comb it down, it lays a nice little bend and nice and soft through it. You also saw the long pieces on the side. That'S because this haircut is cut to have a side parting, and this is where a lot of people make big mistakes, because when they bring the hair over here - and they see this long piece - it actually lives on this side. They take it and they cut it. You never want to go through and just chop things that you see because they they usually have a purpose. Another little tip with blow-drying is when you think it's dry go a little bit longer, because you go from being like damp to dry and damp to kind of frizzy and then to smooth, and that's where you want to sit. You want to sit on the smooth category and you don't want to do as much work with a flatiron right, because damage is gon na come from using a flatiron too much all right. So now we're just gon na iron, it real quick. Do I have a favorite brand of Flatiron? Yes Paul Mitchell, this Paul Mitchell, neuro iron heats up super fast within seconds and not like one minute seconds like 10 seconds. So my recap of the foam that I used violet foam for toning blonde hair. It has kind of a texture II feel to the hair, so my recommendation with this product - what I like to do is just kind of give you guys my honest opinion on it. I think it'd be great for blonde hair feels very conditioning. I think. That'S probably why it has that kind of feeling to it. I would be lighter with the product. I put a lot into this Bob for my clients that do have blonde hair. I think that it's probably really beneficial and if I read this uses hair with hydrating, whatever name that is oils well instantly, banishing brass for a brilliantly blonde finish, taking out the brassy tones conditioning a hair with oils. That oils is what I'm feeling in the hair. I like to gather my own opinions on products before I. They tell me what its gon na be. I'M definitely known to accidentally put shampoo in the hair, because I didn't read the description and try to style with it. One time I put a youtube video up and I used the product, it was a foaming shampoo and I was like this doesn't feel right and then I put it out on YouTube and somebody goes. I use that for shampooing. What are you guys thinking so far? You could see the line looks pretty good, but I just want to go through and fine-tune it. So what I will do is I'll tilt the head down slightly comb it with I even wider tooth comb. So this is a. Why is Park 3-3 to comb? This one has super wide teeth. It'S got wide teeth, so I'm not pulling any tension really at all. It'S just really controlling the hair. At this point, so I comb that down so then I get it I level. Now again, I would, in the salon, use a stool cutting stool. I would sit and then I would be eye level now. I'M gon na go through with just the tip of the scissor and create whatever the line is that I desire right. So you can get fancy with your line or you can just go through and clean up what you created in the wet cut I'll go flat with the blade after I do a little bit with the tip, so the tip I'll take off the length, like the Actual like parts that are sticking out a little bit further and then, when I get the length where I want it, then just to clean and create a really nice sharp line, then I go through with the blade, a little flatter another cool trick. I learned this from my pal Josh DiMarco is to take a little hair spray and comb that into the hair. This is a nice firm hold hairspray. This is joy. Co joy mist firm, so super strong hold, but I just put that in the hair get the hair exactly kind of where I want it and then go through and cut your line. They actually keeps the hair a little in place, and just so you guys know little trick of the trade is that all these people have post all these really sharp haircuts with these sharp lines takes a lot of time to detail those lines. It'S not like. Oh, I just did it all in the dry cut or the wet cuts. I'M so amazing. At this, it's not how it works. You really got a fine-tuned it to get it exactly where you want. You guys get the gist. I could do this for hours. So, thank you guys so much for watching this, because have any questions make sure you post them in the comments below I'd love to hear your questions, comments. What you think about this video anything you want to learn upcoming, make sure you subscribe to our You Tube channel, but here is the cut. So I hope you like you