Pixie Bob Haircut Step By Step | Layered Bob Cut | Textured Bob Haircut

So so connect so hello, i'm lisa espinoza, moroccan oil, educator, artist and academy facilitator, and this is the hair brain takeover. So thank you for being here with us today, but i have a question for you: have you ever wished? You could mash up a couple of your favorite haircuts pop that into the chat box with a thumbs up. If you have and we'll talk about a lot of this today, we're going to walk through it, two of my favorite haircuts, which are the pixie and a short graduated bob. So i've got a finished one here. For you to see this, one is definitely a little bit slimmer than the one we'll be doing later. I wanted you to see a couple of versions. I see a lot of thumbs up. Thank you very much, a couple of versions um in what we'll do today. So you can see all of the possibilities with it. Why did i choose these two haircuts? I love the strength and the foundation of the underneath structural bob. This is a rounded natural, rounded graduation on this, underneath that gives me the strength and the structure right. Sometimes people want these pixie shapes and let's say they have a long face or it doesn't suit them to have it really tight on the edges. Sometimes i want to see a little bit more fullness there, but still have the um. You know still have the the strength and the the texture and the movement of the pixie on the top. So that's exactly what we're going to be doing today. Just so you know uh, i would love for you to give me tons of questions as we're going through and i'll go on afterwards. I always love to go on afterwards and see all your questions and comments, and i promise that i'll answer every single one of them for you. So this is i've pre-done part of my haircut right, so you can see that this side is in. Like i said this, one is a little bit more graduated just a little bit heavier than the one i showed you. My sectioning is kind of a teardrop sectioning through the top you can see. I came in a little bit, leaving a little bit of that front. Hairline or what would might be the fringe area in there coming back to a point just at the kind of mid to bottom of the crown, depending on the head, shape and sectioned that whole top portion out now you don't necessarily need to do the four quadrants, But you definitely should do this central vertical parting because we're working off a center, even though this look is designed to be able to move either way, they'll be able to part it any way that they want. Is that cool all right? So, let's go in on the other side, just going to wet her down a little bit put her up. Some spraying is really important. Keeping that hair, especially with precise and graduated shapes, you really want to make sure you keep that hair evenly saturated one of the things that i've been doing. We have a brand new hero product at moroccan oil and that's our all-in-one leave-in conditioner, which is a great cutting lotion, also a really good detangler for that hair. That'S hard to work through when you're cutting, as well as providing hydration, which is important. Keeping the hair moister longer and then also protecting all right, so i'm going to start with somewhat of a horizontal section. If you do get these this radius here from ear to ear, it helps you to know where to take your horizontal to so horizontal slice here. At the front, and then what i'm going to do is come from here. This is essentially i like to call this your anchor point just back of the ear. This coincides with your high point on the top of the head, and what that tells you is where your back sides end and your front sides begin so in this particular haircut. This is a really important thing to know now behind my high point, i'm going to now start following the head shape going into a more rounded sectioning, get this out of my way and carry that through to the back all right. So just so you know, as you can see, i've sectioned one on my first cut here. I sectioned three quarters, so i did not stop my cutting at the middle of the back of the head. I went a little bit over to the other side when i come from this side, i'm going to cross over that, and also go a little bit to the other side. Has anyone ever had when they do a rounded shape where they get kind of a disproportionate or imbalance in the center back? If you have throw me a thumbs up in there, and this will really help you, because it'll help cross over that middle weight in the back of the head and give you a very soft flow through that, naturally grounded naturally rounded graduation. That'S hard to say all right here we go so i'm going to get my first cut in. Let me just look at where i am on the other side, so i'm just about top of the lip line, slight angle, exposing the ear very slightly. So let me mimic that here on my first cut, you know how they say. The first cut is the deepest well, it's certainly the most important in hair cutting. Would you agree all right so again getting my fingers as close to her head as i can we're? Okay with a little graduation, but we don't want a ton. I want to see where her ear is there right and then i want to see where my fingers are pointing is going to carry that line right, so slight angle just go and take that up grab. Another shear there we go all right, so let's have a peek all right. That'S looking good on that angle. Now i need to move around and we're going to back the camera up just slightly, so i want to show you normally. I would move my body like the hands of a clock you're going to see my back, so i apologize, but i would be standing right in front of my section when i put that in then i'm going to have to move very slightly to the left and Stand right in front of that section when i'm cutting, then when i cut this section, i have to be standing right in front because this is a rounded shape. We'Re really going to follow this head shape so that we get that beautiful, rounded graduation. Now at this point i came up on my angle: i'm going to now go down towards the back and the nape, so there we go, i'm going to put it in. I'M combing that hair from underneath up to meet that line, and here is where we're going to decide what our angle is and how heavy our graduation is. You can tell by the by the angle of my fingers that i'm not too high. If i were like that, it would be a lot slimmer, so this is kind of medium cut that in combing up as i go from the underneath, don't worry about like that, underneath here carrying that down again, i'm facing my section it's funny when we see this In a graduated shape, some hairdressers are like, oh my gosh. How do you do that? Like that's so foreign to me? I don't know if it is to you, but essentially this is a lot of what we do in really short, maybe men's, hair cutting or shorter hair cutting right, it's just putting it in a different way. So now you can see i'm going to cross over this from the other side gives me a bit of a guide right, so i know i need to be hitting this area if you can see it with my comb when i'm coming from this side and that'll Make sure that i'm balanced so there we are. I have a guide from the left and i have a guide from the right and i'm just going to cross over now. I did already clean that up a little bit. If that bothers you, you can just very lightly do this, but don't do too much until you see your final shape. So there you go so you can see how that's moving in right. Okay, let's take our next section and what we're going to do is slightly increase our graduation as we go. Do you think this is something that'll be useful to you behind the chair or in salon pop that in the chat box? I hope that it is taking those nice clean sections, one of the things that i've noticed uh. Sometimes, if i'm in a hurry, i don't get my comb all the way down to the scalp and that's when i don't get really clean suction, so make sure your comb is always hitting the scalp and even combing is super important, make sure you're combing from that Scalp down because then you won't get any what i like to call jiggities all right. So again, one finger graduation getting that in now again pulling this hair. The head shape shifts here, i'm here when i get behind the ear the head shape is facing me. I'M going to face my head shape how high and how low i hold that hair elevation will speak to the amount of heaviness graduation as well as my finger angle. Right so again, you can see my guide from the underneath. If you ever can't see you can kind of pop that up and have a look at where you're at, but if you we all know, if you really can't see it, what do we do tell me in that chat box what we do and create a new Guide is not the answer right all right, so you can see. I increased my graduation slowly i'll increase it a tiny bit more on this round. So this is all about your sections and your body really um. I equate it to the hands of a clock. We'Re gon na tick tick tick around this haircut as we're cutting kind of like the hands of a clock, move around the face, so make sure your body's always moving with this. So it's a little dance that we do looks really pretty and salon too. Clients are like what are they doing all right? You can see little bit more elevation. If you look at it a little bit from that side, you can see my fingers are a little bit higher combing from the top and the bottom to make sure all that hair is combined thanks for um hanging with us today on this monday on hairbrained hair Brained is an amazing educational forum for hairdressers, and i love that it's hairdresser supporting hairdressers, so i'm always honored to be a part of whatever hair brain is doing. So. Thank you all right here we go pulling. You can see. I still have a little bit lower. Graduation, you know, if you're below the head shape. So if my head shape is here, here's my head shape. So as long as i'm below the head shape, i'm graduating. The degree of graduation depends on us right and that's why thoughtful hairdressing as we go through is really good. You can see my shape coming out right. Do you see that start to see that little bit of buildup even wet how's it looking all right? Here we go again there we are coming across now, we'll run out of hair a lot faster on this front side than we will through that back and because we have this teardrop section you'll see that we'll have to do something special once we get most of This in all right, so now we've got this hair that comes forward. We have to make sure we kind of comb that back a little bit into that hairline. It doesn't have to be completely square there, but we also don't want a sharp round up. So if we cut it here, we might get a bit more of a round up, so i'm just very softly softly softly combing that back in and then you'll also see that i'm elevating just very lightly more angling. My fingers, i can perfectly see my guide and then once i get to this point again, shifting to the back of the head and again perfectly see my guide there, combing from the underneath, as well as the top and traveling my body. So for those of you that are just joining, we are doing a mashup of a pixie and a short, rounded graduated bob. So on my underneath right now, i'm putting in the grad bob on the underneath and then through the top, we're going to add a lot more texture and movement throughout all right. Almost last section, let's comb that well again taking my square section there. Now you can see again, i started from a very low elevation where i was pretty much on skin, and now my elevation has very slowly rounded up. Have you ever had that situation, where you get kind of a jump in your graduation? I know that's happened to me in the past and what that comes from is jumping too quickly too high from where you were all right. Thanks for all the comments, guys and all the interaction like, i said, i'm gon na go on afterwards and see what everyone has said all right. This is my last section you can see so i'm coming through here, i'm going to release some of this other side. What i love about this haircut, i mean no matter how you use it. I mean you can use this anywhere from this short bob again, it's a concept we use in shorter haircuts. We also use you can build a very heavy graduated bob up into this as well. So now you can see where we're coming here, but look at that graduation even just wet. You can see the buildup and the roundness and how it's really hugging, that head shape. What do you think right? Don'T worry about this right now, this underneath yeah, i know sometimes it's funny, because sometimes it bugs us and we want to take care of that and do something with it right away. But if you wait until your whole shape is pretty much done, then you can really tailor it to finish to fit the whole silhouette instead of just dealing with the back all right. So i'm going to drop my top now again. If we were doing this whole haircut together, i have pre-did half of it right if we were doing this whole haircut. What i would do is, i would do one side like i did on the underneath. The other side, like i did on the underneath another question that i get sometimes is: how do you cross check that, because you're coming in this way, you're coming in this way right and working? So, naturally, if we work on the opposite right, we're going to come on the opposite and take more diagonal forward. Sections pulling out always remember when you're cross-checking to pull out to your same exact elevation and finger angle. And that way you won't take anything off that you don't want to, but that's how you're going to cross check this is pulling sectioning diagonal forward and pulling to the same elevation that you cut it at and you'll be able to see if you're on point, i Saw a question someone asked: could they get a diagram, so just i will what i'll do is i will later on uh, maybe later today or tomorrow at latest? I will draw up a diagram for you and i'll pop it into the comment section or as a photo um on hair brains, facebook page great question. Thank you very much all right. So let's say we've got our whole underneath done we're at you know. This is all done, we've cross checked it. It'S all good. The shape is looking. You know how we want to see it right. Then i would drop both sides, which, let's do that this side is pre-cut, of course, but i'll show you i would cut both. I would drop both sides on the top and, as you can see, i have my central vertical parting from the nose all the way down to my disconnection all right, so i would start with one side work all the way through, as i did here and now. I'M going to start on this side work all the way through, so what i'm doing is taking diagonal forward now sectioning in my disconnect and just like, we rotated our graduation on the underneath we're going to rotate our elevation through this top all right. So i'm going to pick this hair up pick up some of my underneath. Let me take a bit smaller section drop a little lower again. If you can't find your guide, take a smaller section right all right! Here we go so now. You can see my guide on the underneath and i'm going to cut this from shorter to longer, creating a v so essentially, i'm longer in the center of this section and very slightly angling like this towards my underneath and i'll carry on with that again. So now i'm going to pick up my graduation a little bit or my elevation. I should say a little bit higher cut that you can choose to be on the edges. You can see this is my underneath. Can you see that there's my underneath, which is a little shorter than what i'm cutting i'm not going to completely connect it, but i'll be close and, as you know, when that dries up, it'll have a very slight disconnected feeling which will give it more movement? Okay, again rolling my elevation, let me put my head down a bit now. I can take my fingers and push them up. That'S going to soften the edges of my cut finding. My guide picked up a tiny piece from the other side, which also gives me a guide to shoot for and then look at where i connect on that underneath. Okay, let's continue on just moving towards the front. This is what's going to give me on the top that pixie feeling right because traditionally on a bob, we may not be this high in our elevation on the top and we were able to connect to that underneath structural bob shape and now we're going to roll. This forward in elevation to get a lot more, a lot more movement all right carrying on you can see my diagonal forward sections. I love that you guys are like talking about diagrams and you know the best hairdressers. Never stop! Learning right. I love that. So we know we get the best of the best on here on hair brain one day, moroccan oil academy will be open again. I can't wait in new york city when we can all travel and hang out in academies together and have a great time right. Meanwhile, we are launching on moroccanoil professionals.com a subscription education service, so you can get a lot more tutorials and education there as well. So if you don't, if you haven't been on there, then go on there and check it out, so you can see again rolling my elevation up moving towards the front to me. This is just a little bit different way of putting that top in. What do you think give me a thumbs up if you're liking this for those of you that are just joining? We'Ve done a rounded graduation bob shape on the underneath, we're doing a mashup today and i'm doing higher elevations and textures through the top to give it more of a pixie feel all right. I can see my other side there. That'S also a really good point. Pick up a little bit of your other side when cutting through this side and that'll just help you to know if you're balanced and on point and last section pretty much, i'm gon na lift that pretty high there's. I lied. It'S gon na be two because i wan na see my guide really well through that there we are lift up here, pick up a little bit of my other side. Take that off and now absolutely our last section. So now, whether i were in salon or wherever i were, you know, i would then dry this completely. This whole shape get all of the shape in here. Get it all dry. You can see. We'Ve got that underneath structural shape from the from the um from the bob, and now we have our top, which has got a lot of texture and movement and some more layering or movement through that top to a longer front and by the magic by the magic Of hair brained here's my finished graduated bob pixie, my pixie bob that i did earlier. So this is just dried with the denver brush. You know using great products. I already had my all-in-one conditioner. In there i used another hero product which just came out from moroccan oil, which is our volumizing mist. We always use our treatment oil. In this case, i used light because i wanted to leave a little bit more movement and um viscosity is a little bit lighter. So dried it out with a denman brush, so basically just flat wrapped all through this bottom dried her with a denman, moved it around that minimum of product, and now i'm going to go in dry and finish my hair cut off. I like to say i do work in salon as well. My husband and i, who is uh also my lighting guy fellow hairdresser, support um, sometimes cameraman right. We'Ve all got these support people in our lives, uh. You know when we're in salon together, i like to say that a lot of the magic happens dry right, because that's where we're refining or detailing or giving all that beautiful, texture and movement, so you can see, got my beautiful, underneath structural shape right got my top! Now i'm going to do what i like to call a braided belt effect dry and the reason i do this dry is because now i want to go and dry and point cut the shape and give it even more movement than it already has. So i'm going to start with a diagonal section again kind of following the hairline here. So when we came from the back to the front, we cut diagonal forward. Now, when i cut from the front to the back, i'm sort of going diagonal back. Aren'T i so i'm going to cross over on myself and create the shape that has the most movement possible now what you want to decide, uh, let's see what you want to decide is how long you want this front bit right. I'Ve got this kind of point here and where do you want to see it on the face again, this is going to be designed, even though we cut it center to move to either side, which is brilliant, so we can see. Where do we want this to sit, i'm going to take this side, bring it forward. You turn my mani, let's see if you can see all right, so i'm going to bring this forward. I want to maintain this short to long on this front, but i just want it a little bit shorter, a little bit softer. So i'm going to angle my fingers making sure i'm still longest in that middle point and shorter, and i'm going to point cut that now where you angle, your shears can be important too in point cutting right now, i'm angling towards the back to neutralize this movement. I'M going to on my next section angle towards the front so taking the other side from center pulling out, you can see. That'S going to be my longest point right. There pull this again. My fingers are angled shorter towards the back to longer making sure i keep my middle the longest, and this will be angled forward here and there you go. You can see. I created a bit shorter there right, okay and doing this sort of braided belt technique. I'M going to take another v there, but this time i'm going to cross over a bit into the other side, roll that all forward lift my elevation get my fingers under it, look at where i'm at and just get that all right again going on the other Side, what do you think of this? This is kind of a way to go in. I put that length in through the top, and now i'm just refining it and giving it a bit more movement. You can see how she's coming out right, giving us a bit more movement there, let's roll this forward and again you could leave that as long or as short as you want, depending on you, you could take this pretty short. If you want, you can see pulling forward really not reaching a lot now. So essentially, i'm just point cutting at this point because it really doesn't reach all right get in here all right. There we go all right so now, we've got our foundational shape in what are we going to do with this? Now you want to go in and give it some more movement, some more texture. We can do things like slide cutting where we're insured, inserting our shears from the top into the hair um. Actually, it sort of diagonally through the side. What you don't want to do is have your shear parallel to the head horizontal to the head. You want to have it somewhat diagonal to that head shape if you go in and texturize from the top. What'S going to happen, is you're going to put kind of divots into your graduation right, so, basically, we've gotten this foreigner shape. Now we just need to give it those special touches and move along and movement moving along with the movement. What are you guys thinking so far right? You can do that all over. Remember that the angle that you put your shear in and go you're telling that hair where to go. So if you wanted to move to the side or towards her face, that's what you want to do is angle it where you want to tell that hair to go. We know that concept of short push is long right and that's what's going to come into play again doing that something that i like to do. I call it levitation if you want a little bit more height or movement, especially in this crown area. Right i go in, i lift the hair, lift the hair, and you really only want to do this above the parietal ridge and in the crown and above you, don't necessarily need to do this lower. Just going to lift this hair. Take my shears i'm never going to close them fully, i'm just going to kind of massage this hair off in a bricklay matter. Brick lay pattern. Oh my gosh. Some of these word combinations are killing me. This girl has quite a bit of hair quite heavy. So i can do a good bit of this. The other thing that i can do even through that front, is kind of take out. If you want to take a little bit more out from those ends, you can go in and just release some weight off. Those ends as well just remember that you don't want to completely take away what you've put in so we've put this we've put the strength of this bob shape on the underneath to hold it up, so where you really want to do a lot of your work And texture is through this top area right. So just hang that out this, what you can see on the underneath here was just scissored overcome lightly. You can go in also when you're all done with your shape. I would point cut that out unless you really want it super tight, sometimes i'll point over comb as well to keep that nice and soft there. If you're wanting a softer, look raise this up or tighten this up in the nape so that you can see what that is, so really it's now just about playing adding your own artistic vision. Logic will take us from point a to point b, but your imagination will take you everywhere else. So let me see i'm just going to go in release a little more weight. How are you guys liking this pretty easy once you get all the motions down really fun, it's a great haircut in salon, i'm going to finish her off a bit saw a question. What scissors do i use? I have hanzo hatturis and i also have hikaris, which is mostly what i use all right. So now i'm going to use a bit of our dry texture spray, and i would show this guest in salon how to use this product, i'm any texture, sprays or if they want a lot of movement. I feel, like the clients, tend to put everything on top of their hair. Just on the service. Do you guys agree with that? But what we really want them to do is put it in the hair so that they have a lot more movement, and it goes in the haircut to really show off all those details that you've built in right get some on the other side, because i didn't Want her to be imbalanced so again, i'm lisa espinoza, i'm a guest artist academy facilitator with moroccan oil. You can see a lot of tutorials on our page as well. We even have a very new educational subscription plan on moroccanoil professionals.com and i'm loving always being here with hairbrained and appreciate hair brained, so much for all that they do for us in the community right, especially right now. I think we need all that support wherever we can get it. So this is my pixie bob, the strength underneath of the bob. We did a rounded natural graduation. I do promise i'll get you up a diagram um in the comments section of this video as it lives on the harebrained page. So come back if you loved it share it, get your friends to watch it, but come back i'll, get that on there. I'Ll. Also answer any questions: you have disconnected teardrop, rounded natural graduation on the underneath. Then, through that top we dropped that top. We did diagonal forward sections working through that top slightly connecting to our underneath bob shape and slowly rolling our elevation a little higher a little higher as we went to create more movement now wet. What that created for us was a nice movement and then the front was longer and came to a long point here. We then applied our styling product. We used our moroccan oil volumizing mist, you can use a denman or a flat brush, whatever you prefer to use with this got it all. Nice and dry got the movement going. The haircut was sitting nicely and then we came to the very front created a v. This way dry lifted it and just gave ourselves a little bit shorter movement through that front, with a braided belt technique, taking the hair to the sides and cutting and that to that side and cutting coming through once we did that doing our slide, cutting doing a Bit of levitation coming from the underneath and slicing some of that hair off in in a in a bricklay pattern to give us some holes on the underneath and hold that up and then also doing a bit of just freeing up some of those ends so that We also get all that movement, so i'm lisa espinoza. I hope that you enjoyed this haircut um with moroccan oil and that also you'll join us on our moroccan oil um instagram page, which is at moroccan oil. Pro mine, if you'd like to hang out with me, is moda lisa. It'S david, a l-i-z-a and the number two right on instagram mona lisa too, at instagram, and also on moroccanoil professionals.com on the web and hope to see you soon at the academy or wherever we may be, as hairdressers gather together. Love you all thanks.