A-Line Bob Haircut On Curly Hair - On The Road Education - Paul Mitchell The School Jersey Shore

Hey guys, this is Matt Beck from free salon, education.com we're here at palma to the school jersey shore in brick, new jersey, we're gon na head inside and we're gon na work with the students on filming a haircut color style, the whole entire package. I hope you guys enjoy this video and yeah. Let'S go have some fun. We got a good salable. She returned I'm feeling alright guys, so this is Matt Beck from free salon, education and I'm very excited for this video. We went to Jersey Shore, obviously, and we filmed this is going to be a full through step-by-step haircut. We'Re gon na do a graduated, basically an a-line Bob on curly hair and the thing I like about this. We wanted to go to the school because we wanted to find people that were willing and open and also you know that wanted to learn as well and wanted to learn filming and all of that, so we got some students involved, so I'm gon na walk. You guys, through the haircut what we did, we're gon na go through the style, breakdown, the color breakdown and how they did that as well. So, starting off here in the back, we we started by cutting our guideline and what you notice is I'm not holding the hair in my hand, because I don't want to create a lot of tension. She'S got curly hair, it's gon na live curly anyways. So why would I pull it down on my hands? That'S not how it's naturally gon na live, so I comb it down. I even give it a little bit of movement with my hand to let it spring up and become almost in its natural state, and then I cut my baseline now. I cut that at 0 degree angle, which, basically, if you look at the curve of the head, is going to create almost a 45 degree angle anyways, because of the way that the occipital bone curves and moves so we're working diagonal forward. Sectioning, I cut that baseline. First now I'm gon na move in with elevation, so we got a few different camera angles here. So hopefully you guys can get a really good look at what we're doing. But what I want to show here is how that head shape is, is angled, so I'm gon na pull out what I cut at a zero degree angle right here to show you that it's really at a 45 degree, if you hold it out, so you can See that that angle, that it creates, even though I cut it right at the neck - it's still a 45 degree angle. So I don't need to elevate any of that. If I do that, I'm gon na create a weird tail in the back of the head that I don't want so now, as I work through the elevation, I'm gon na work on a higher elevation because the head starts to curve away. So you can see that angle that I'm working at and right here, I'm basically telling them that if, if I were to hold that hair 45 degree angle the entire time or what we consider a 45 degree angle, it would basically turn into a zero degree angle. As the head curves away so now we're gon na work still keeping it at a little bit higher elevation because with curly hair you don't need that much graduation, you don't need a really strong angle. That'S gon na build up a lot of weight. It'S gon na happen anyways and it's gon na shoot up because of the springiness of curly hair anyways. So my elevation is is probably at about a 45 degree angle. At this point, looking at it, it would be really high if it was 90 degrees. So we're about a mid midpoint there so holding it out, 45-degree angle and just cutting palm to Palm combing, all of that new hair. So all the new hair is going towards the center of the head towards my guideline and that's really. The key you'll also notice that I'm using a wife's Park 3-3 to comb, which is a really wide toothed comb and the reason for that she's got curly hair. Why would I want to use a tight tension? Comb on curly hair, a lot of classes that I've taught at the hairdresser's have their favorite comb, and you can't just have one comb for everything you need. You need a comb that fits the situation and the three three two comb I like on curly hair. So we're still working palm to Palm following that guideline. Now we were traveling slightly and now everything is over directed straight back, because really what I want to do is once I hit that corner of the head. I want to push that weight forward, which is gon na, create our a line feel it's gon na push more that weight forward, so you can see how it drops down a bit in there. I'M just checking the way the hair Falls, I think with curly hair. It'S a lot about the feel and what we're trying to do is we want to expand that shape, so I'm just kind of tossing it around and then we'll go through them clean up a little bit of neck hair. Sometimes that's a nervous habit. You mean it doesn't need to happen yet I'm gon na do it at the end again, but you know we just we all have our habits, so these are things that when you start editing a video you notice about yourself, but so still working at 90 degrees. I let a little bit more hair down working vertically at this point, still straight back, but not straight out so still again at that 45-degree angle, straight out would be straight up from the crown and we're working about midway down so vertically, using the previous section. As my guide traveling guides, still I'm not over directing it all the way back, maybe we'll get an angle in there, so you can see that, but we're not I'm not over directing it to the very center back, because if I did that I'd push way too Much weight to the side of the head and I don't want to do that so over direct straight back watch the consistency - and this is what I look for when I watch myself cutting here - is I'm looking for the consistency of my elevation so right here, I'm Working around the round of the head, I don't want to elevate it. The top section is going to be elevated straight out. So I look at consistency with that. Then I drop in my elevation as I worked the round of the head, because the angle of the head changes, so I don't want to create too much weight dropping down towards her ear. Now we're gon na go through and cross-check, basically working diagonal back sections just make sure that you shift that finger angle, so it's horizontal with the neckline in the back of the nape of the neck and just dusting the ends. I'M looking for inconsistency in my elevation. The key to this cross-checking is just to make sure that I'm taking small sections, because if you take large sections what's gon na happen, is you're gon na pull it too far from where it was originally in the cot you're gon na change, the shape of the Haircut so just make sure you take small sections and it comes straight out from the head. Just like you cut it in the other direction, because cross-checking is really just checking both angles. To make sure that you have consistency and there we go. So when you can see the thing about curly hair, that's so great. A lot of people like to cut a ton of texture in curly hair, which is fine at the end. You can add some texture and lighten it up, but when you create structure and curly hair, it's one of the coolest things because you can actually it's my favorite thing to cut is curly hair because you see the shape actually happened, you see it expand out and That'S awesome: you can't see that on fine thin low. What'S a density, oh there we go it hit me. It'S been a long day, but low density hair. You can't see that shape happen, so curly hair is just so cool in the way that it expands. So you want to create a precise haircut, because then you can actually see that shape forming now. The difference here is my fingers are pointing down the reason they're pointing down is I want to stay consistent with my combing. We'Ve talked about this in past hair cuts that I've done, if you haven't seen them, make sure you're subscribing to our channel on YouTube, because we have a lot of hair cuts, we're producing 4 to 5 videos a week with free education. So but you just want to stay consistent with the combing, make sure that you comb, that hair towards your guide line, you're, never combing your guide line towards the new hair you're still working vertical, and the toughest part about this section here is that my elbow is: Is in the air, so if my elbows in the air, it's gon na want to fall down, and so it's really hard to stay consistent this way, so you just want to make sure you're focused on that the entire time I mean we're not always going to Be super comfortable cutting hair, but you want to try to have your hand s and your arm and your body position as comfortable as possible. So you can see my elevation dropped at the beginning because of the head shape and then, as I work my way up the head, then my elevation gets a little bit higher. The thing I loved about being at Paul Mitchell, school jersey shore, was that first off they have students that are just loved learning and they were totally willing to be there. They were loving what we were doing, so it was really cool to experience it with them and get them involved. We they did the color for us, they helped with the styling they helped. We showed them how we set up everything when we film and it was just really fun. It was a cool experience to be with them and doing that. So you know this is the place that we would go to find new hires and new talent for the industry, so make sure that you get involved in getting in the school. This is something we didn't obviously get paid to go in there, but we wanted to go in there and share what we're doing and it inspires the students and we get to meet them and, and you get to find out who's gon na work great in your Salon so it's a really cool thing to do and do it in your area and get involved with the students to find what makes you guys different as a salon and go in there and and share it. So there you go and then we're gon na go through we're gon na cross check again this is the GoPro angle you can see when we do the wider shot. You can see if there's a camera on my chest, and sometimes we wear it on our head. We'Re trying in all different ways, so just you can see this is a good shot of how we're cross-checking, really small sections. Try not to pull all of that old hair with me. So I take this small section and over-direct it back and keeping that elevation high, because if you looked at that vertically, I would be elevating that whole section up. So I don't want to hold it down at the bottom and that's when I was explaining to them now. I wouldn't want to hold that all down, because it would change the whole inside haircut. That'S not how I cut it so just make sure, as you work through there and you're cross-checking that you're keeping that elevation high and right off of the head. That way in the last section making sure I'm just straight back straight off the head. I don't want to. I don't want to cut off that corner. I want to create that and push that weight forward and that's what really makes this haircut stand out. So shout out, curly hair, I mean you, we we just filmed a straight. Her version of this type of haircut a little more asymmetrical, feel to it, but with this one you know you want you want that build up of curl around her face and to drop just below her cheekbone and that's what's really gon na bring this whole thing Out you don't want to just have a big round shape on her head, you want it to drop and move, and in and showcase you know the features. So what I'm gon na do is again. I did not comb this down straight. I comb it down and then I let the curl kind of expand up and then I cut the line. We can always go in and clean that up later, but I want to just leave it there and I also did not elevate it because there's no reason to elevator right now. I want to go through the top part there that we're gon na work on next. The very top section that's where we can create the lightness and and all that, but she doesn't have a really thick density of hair. So I want that curl to expand. Now you can see me shaking it out letting that curl activate and then, as soon as the curl activates, then I'm gon na go in and cut the line. I like this better than just holding it up over directing it back and pushing the weight forward, because I can determine what I want that line to look like, instead of holding it back and hoping that it falls the way I want it to just clean it Up a little bit more, this would be a good chance to look in your mirror and see if both sides are balanced. The way that you would like them to be, and then just get your hands in it I mean curly hair, is so fun to just watch it expand and build and become what you want it to be. So now we're gon na let down the top and the top is just really we just built the shape. We'Ve created everything so now. What I want to do is I'm gon na separate the front in the back, so you can see that right at the high point that apex right there and I'm gon na work, and I want to keep expanding that round, shape in the back and I'm gon Na do something a little bit different with the front and collapse, the top a little bit more in the front, because I don't want a lot of weight being shoved over so we'll twist up the top I'm gon na completely separate it, and just you know, keep Everything clean organized as you're working through don't get too antsy to want to jump into everything at once, because there are two separate things as you look at the curve of the head and how it works. It'S different. The back is different than the front you're gon na hold it differently, it's working differently, so eventually they will connect but they're a different part of the head and they're gon na the hair is gon na lay in a different spot. So so we separate the front in the back and now I'm gon na work in basically PI shape sections, but I'm gon na over direct them to that back, left corner. So you'll see this. What I wanted to do is expand the Heaviside. So if she's gon na part on the left hand side, I wanted to over direct everything to the left hand, side and just push that wait, because I also, I think, with with curly hair. Sometimes we cut too many layers and, on the top, it'll look a little flatter because of all the layering and then around the side it gets. It starts to sort of expand and we collapse it a little bit too much on the top. So here, you're gon na see me combing with the round of the head, but over directing it all the way over just to build up that weight on the heavy side, it's gon na give it a little bit of an asymmetric feel, but not really, because, though, The left side is light airy, so it's going to expand on its own and then the heavy side sometimes Falls a little flat because it's so heavy. So you want to add a little bit more layering to the left side and then the bulk to the right side still working vertically through there and over directing it stationary guide. And this would be the last section just grabbing it over over directing all that hair to that stationary guide, pushing all that weight to the right side. There we go and now we're gon na work on the front. The cool thing about this experience was teaching a class at the same time, so we're filming this and we had the three camera angles going, but there were students there, so we were teaching as well, which was really fun. So now I'm going to take a section out of the corner, so this is where she parts her hair. So I want to take a section from above the part and I'm going to take a little bit of a section from below the part and that's gon na start. My guideline for the front of the head also the thing with our model Jessica here: who's also a student at the school. The one thing about her was that her head was a little bit flatter on top, so what we wanted to do it. I wanted to create a little bit more bulk in the middle like around the apex area, just to give it a little more roundness and that's the thing with our guests. They all have. We all have different shaped heads. I have a really flat head in the back, so I was just talking to the guys before I want to create a little more bulk in the back of my head. You know, so you want to create an illusion of something. That'S not there. That'S what a great haircut is so when we look at here, I want to build up that weight right in the center, so my over direction is short around the forehead area and it builds to a peak right around the apex, so the weight that I built Up in the back section, I cut short too long in the back and now I'm cutting short so long in the front to create that peak right where the top of my knuckles aren't there, and then everything is again being over directed to right. Over top of the parting, so we're creating a side, angled kind of fringe, with curly hair and also removing a lot of bulk and placing it on the apex. So everything that we're doing has a purpose, and that's really what you want to make sure you're focused on when you're cutting hair is putting weight where you need it and removing it where you don't need. It sounds simple, but as long as you understand head shape - and that was it clicked for me - you know a few years ago - cutting hair was just I understood how to create a shape or like a triangle or square shape on the head. But what I didn't understand and what clicked with me finally, was to put it with the head shape as well. So you know combining all that stuff together and doing everything with a purpose and there we go. So what we're gon na do now is we're gon na break down some of the other stuff to styling, and then I'm gon na come back in and finish up with the dry cut. So let's let Barrett go through the styling and then we'll come back. Alright guys we are moving on to the finishing now. This is a Barrett Sultana from free salon. Education.Com, and this is our friend Taylor and she came through and she helped me do a lot of the finishing. So I'm just gon na have her go through and say what products we've used and how we achieved we're gon na start in the back. So if you could walk us through and tell me what we did in the back sure well, first, we started with Paul Mitchell twirl around. We rubbed it through the entire head and we went with the curl pattern. So we kind of told our fingers in there kind of just like worked it through every curl individually and then, when we went in with the diffuser we started, did you want to start in the back? Can you tell her back because she was I'm pretty saturated, so we wanted to get this dry first, okay and now the haircut that Matt went through because we went we. I wanted to start in the back just to build that weight, because Matt went through and talked about a lot of the structure that we did with the haircut. So I think that that helps with building the volume in the hair and building the structure of the curl back. So then we went through and we had her tilt. I'M just gon na have her show you a little bit that we tilted her side to side and then I'm gon na have Taylor. Tell you why we actually did that with her. So when we tilt her side to side it kind of helps, bring up that natural volume that she gets with the curl okay and then, when we went side to side. The last thing we really had her do is flip forward. You really don't have to flip. For it, I'm not going to give you whiplash, but you have this the client or guests flip forward, and if they have a little bit longer here, you can also have them stand. We just had her sit in the chair, flip her head forward, and that gave her volume up here and that's why just not touching the curl too much as we're diffusing it kind of just gripping it at the root to get all that volume up. There is what we really did and then going through with a working spray, really helped to build all the weight in the structure of the curl, so that Matt could go in and do some finishing with some dry cutting. And then we finished it with a nice finishing spray, and that is our style for today, thanks guys, all right so cool, so that's the way that we styled it. Now that we have it finished - and you know you don't want to touch a lot of those curls like Barrett was saying so now. I can really get my hands in it. We'Ve already got it style, irons and everything, and the one thing that I don't think was passed along, and that was that she did go through with a small wand, iron and just to find the curls. So I think that's important to say, because this isn't just a diffused look, you know more effort goes into it than that. I think that was one thing at hair shows is that you know so much effort goes into making that hair look flawless and then we come out and we're, like you know it's just this one product did all this and it's not that's not the case. So you know there was a wand involved that was diffusing sprays. All different stuff goes into this look so we're just going through doing a tease cutting technique, I'm using my blacksmith fit puff in dry cutting scissor. So it's a real smooth, scissor and the dry hair. I just going through and just lightening up the top layer of curls, so nothing too fancy I just like to create a little area, nasaw hairiness of that so we're through the top of the hair and and yeah just give it some movement in there. I remember when I was in beauty school. I was told that you know I saw this really sleek beautiful, look from on a DVD and my teacher was like you know they go through with a flat iron. They use all these serums and all this stuff and I'm like well, people can do that at home. We can teach people to do this stuff. So you know this is a look, that's very easy to recreate and - and I think, if we show people to diffuse and then use a really quick, I don't think that that's too much to ask for our guests, oh, but it gives it such a definition on All the curls I'm going through cleaning up the neck hair. I just lift up some of the curls and go through just flatten my scissor along the neckline. This is something you know, work on it, but if you have your steady blade, that's not moving, and you just work that along the neck, and then you close it with the blade that you have in motion. It works really. Well, you don't have to use a clipper like I don't I like to leave it a little natural she's supposed to have some that care there so just go through through scissor and clean it up a bit. So now we're gon na jump in just finish it with a firm, finishing spray, expand the curl out. It looks great. The color looks awesome, so Brian hair is gon na go through now and he's gon na break down the color technique that they did it to school. So here we go hey guys, Brian hair, from free salon, education.com with my good friend Jess, and she was the creative genius behind this really cool color technique on our lovely model here. So I'm here to let her explain that to you guys so hi Jess great job. So why don't you walk us through a little bit of what you did? We did a block coloring technique on her from the apex forward. We did a cool red and then we did a cool red on the occipital down as well the same color, yes and then around the band of the hair. We did a red red, neutral, red and then right here on the sides. We did a black coloring with a red orange, so you have a cool neutral and a warm red all in the one head. Yes, that's awesome, I mean it looks great. You can definitely see the dimension throughout. Why did you choose to do one of each um just to give it some movement and some dimension, and just to give it different colors have some fun with it? Well, I think you did a great job. It definitely translates. Well into this great angled haircut and it explodes great choice with the block color because it really helps to show up on the curl. So I think, did a fantastic job and don't be surprised if I steal this from you. Thank you. Hi, I'm drea Bowlin with free salon, education, calm and I'm here with Alanna to break down her makeup technique that she used today on our lovely model hi. So I really wanted to play out her warmth in her hair car that she got and really featured that in her makeup application. I'Ve really incorporated the copper red tones and kind of a coral cheek color, and the contouring highlight really brings out her facial features and really plays up the whole hairstyle and brings it all together. Well, you did a great job. The model looks stunning and back to you, I wonder, what's in store, I'm sure and make sure that you guys subscribe to us on YouTube right below so hit the subscribe button. We have lots of videos for hairstylists coming up and make sure you check out. Drake city for this awesome song, we'll see you guys on the next video thanks.