Undercut Technique To Collapse The Shape Of Your Bob Haircuts: Cutting Difficult Hairlines

Hi everyone, Andrew Carruthers, here for Sam via one of the most challenging things as a hairdresser, is dealing with hair lines and one of the first steps we always take. As we look at our clients hair is, we need to go through and look at those hair lines find out where all those little twists and turns and cow licks. Are I hate that word? So what we found here is on Lauren. We found she's got a crazy hair line and we actually are going to start taking this. This hair cut shorter and shorter on a very long bob like this, it's probably not going to affect your outcome too dramatically, but as the hair goes shorter and shorter. Now those hair lines are going to be a much stronger player, so what I want to show you guys is what we found is a lot of times. We can get rid of this kind of stuff. Now, let's say I was doing kind of a bob shape on her. What this hair lines going to do is it's going to create unnecessary body coming out from the inside of the haircut? What I could do here is, if I did want to leave a bob shape. I just part off that hair. That creates all of my problem. Now I want you to get the permission from your guests before you do this, because if you go in and you just kind of slam, this hair off and she's not ready for it. It could be a panic in the chair moment because she might not be sure what you're doing back there so talk to her about her hairline and what kind of challenges it's creating in the haircut and then get an agreement with your guest. Is it okay? If I take this step to make your haircut better as soon as they agree, you're clear to go - and I promise you're they're going to thank you for it later, so what I would do is, I would take a reversible blending scissor and what's important about this. Is that, whichever the the way these teeth go as we cut is going to push the hair in a certain direction? So let's say I wanted this to kick out and up. I would make sure that those teeth were pushing out and up, but that's not what we want. Of course we want this to push down and into the nape. So what I'll make sure I do is that I have these teeth pointing down and into the nape as I do this. So I'm going to take - and I'm literally going to just start to remove that hair right down there at the nape, and you can see them being really aggressive about this guy's and some of you might be cringing at home because that's a lot of hair just Disappearing there don't fear the short hair, because when she starts to blow-dry this - and she doesn't have those challenges with the hair kicking up and pushing the bob outward she's going to. Thank you for this now again, I'm using that reversible blending scissors so that I have softness through this. If I came in with a regular scissor and just kind of cut that in it's not going to look as soft and lived-in as if I remove this with that blending scissor, so I'm just basically almost whittling the hair away with the scissor rather than coming in And just creating a hard line: now, I'm not going to take it all the way down to the scalp, because they're from a 5 foot distance that still looks completely and totally soft, and it just looks blended now, here's the thing is, we have to remember. We have to remind our guests of this too, that most of our friends and family - they don't see us from here. If they do, you got a creepy friend and family group now. The thing that's really important here is that, if we're going to talk to our clients that way, let them know hey from five feet. This is going to look so natural and easygoing. Just don't have your friends get that close to you, so what happens is then, when we drop down more of a bob shape over top of that, it's going to allow this to sit in cleaner and closer to the neckline. Now, that's if we're doing a bob shape. What happens if I want to go shorter, which I do that first step will remain the same, and then I have a couple options as I start to cut this hair away. What I could do is I could leave this long enough that this actually sits over top of that now. The nice thing is: what happens right now in fashion? Is women are okay, with going closer and shorter than almost ever before, and what's really cool? Is this androgynous feel that we're seeing on the runways we're able to translate that into our work behind the chair, and especially when it's interior like this? Because we can really take a lot of this hair away and it can still stay soft because there's things falling over top of it but what's great is people are less scared to be aggressive about going shorter. So what I'd like to do is I'd like to show you real, quick, how that happens, I'm again using the reversible blending shear and the reason I'm doing. That is because I want softness here now again. I want to make sure the teeth of the blending. Scissor are going in towards the nape I'm going to use a blending shear over comb technique and I'm just going to take that hair away. Now, what I'm going to do is it's okay, that I didn't remove all of the hair. You can see all the hairs not gone there yet and I just did maybe five or six cuts and I'm gon na let it drop now the reason I'm going to do. That is because, when I go in a second time, I'm going to adjust my comb position just slightly to give myself another little dimension in the texture. It'S not going to be a flat line because I mean, if you go in and you just start going at one solid line with the blending scissor, you can still create a pretty solid line, but I want this to stay soft so going in and just working. The hair away with a couple different swipes, rather than going at it in one solid panel and again, what that's doing for me is it's giving me softness now, I'm doing the squats here for you guys, because I want you to be able to see over my Shoulder if I wanted to do this in the salon would definitely be much more squared and much more natural body position, but that doesn't necessarily work for you guys at home. So I'm going to go ahead and keep doing my squats here. So you can see over my shoulder now, I'm doing this on dry hair. What if I wanted to take this away a little quicker and do it in a wet haircut? Absolutely fine! The only difference is that, as you do, a wet cut you're, not necessarily getting the same visual impact you're not going to see the hairline develop in the same way that you would, if you did this dry with it dry, I can see exactly what's happening with Every single cut that I take personally, we prefer to go in it with dry hair. So that's what we're going to encourage you to do is do the dry hair on people that don't have a strong of necklines. Maybe I would go in and go ahead and just knock this out. While I was wet now again just using that blending scissor to soften and Whittle that hair away, I'm going to come in one more time it from this corner just to blend that detachment and then this is going to create a really nice base for us to Actually drop this next section over top of and work with it without the interference of that gnarly hairline. She has so again, if you just need the hairline gone, just section, that away use that reversible blending scissor to just pull that texture away from the head and remove that crazy cowlick. This is exactly the tool you need to blend those down and make them disappear and have it just appear flawless and natural guys. Thank you so much for watching today, I'm Andrew Carruthers for Sambia