How To Cut A Graduated Bob Haircut For Curly Hair, Layers Bob Haircut

Good afternoon, everyone welcome to a harebrained Facebook takeover with Lisa Espinosa global Moroccan oil, artists and New York City Academy facilitator. Today she will be demoing a curly graduated haircut. Yes, I like race, it from Moroccan oil from my living room here in Chicagoland in Chicago or weather, is not so nice that we can be on the patio, so I'm in my living room. So you can hang with me here, but this is the shape that we'll be creating. Today, I wanted to let you see it. It'S kind of an oblong curly bob. She does have on a bit off besides we'll talk about prep and products, but also the color that you're seeing. I know we get a lot of questions. Is our new Moroccan oil color, depositing mask in hibiscus over lightened hair? She was a blonde man to begin with, so I'm going to put it away. You got to see her we're gon na put her over here. So it's going to hang out for a little while and we're gon na get started on her haircut. So I'm just finishing up my sectioning, so ray as I said, is hanging with us today. Ray is also a hairdresser. We actually met through hairdressing, so he'll be hanging with us. If you do have questions, I encourage you to ask them and he'll make sure that we get them answered if they go by pretty fast, we'll make sure when the video gets recorded and on the page I'll go on and get questions in the comments. So one of the things that always happens when we're talking about creating shapes with curly hair. I want you to sort of imagine a world where cruel, curly hair is sculpted out of clay. So one of the things that I find with clay is that it's a very heavy, solid material and also that it weighs down it's very affected by sure, and it also takes on a lot of shape from external forces. I'M just looking at my material here, which is why a lot of people say that curly hair sculpts or it's it sculpts like a bush. So what we're trying to avoid with this particular haircut, to give it a bit more modern, feel, is to give it a bit more airiness and also to let it have a lot more movement and feel a little bit more organic. So I'm going to start from underneath there's actually a three-step program that we're going to be doing today to free up this hair and the three steps are all about tension. So one two three one in this area underneath it's going to be finger tension, I'm going to be using my fingers, light tension, nothing too heavy you'll, see I'll be coming with my fine teeth to get it nice and clean and then going back in with my Wider teeth and creating a little bit more air again between those strands that were working on in this area. I'M gon na be working with my count so utilizing my comb doing code tension again with the wide teeth of my comb and then that will give me a little bit less tension than what I had with the underneath and then through this whole top area. I will be doing freehand, so we doing what we call it Moroccan oil scissors down. I didn't prep my mani um. I shampooed her with our Moroccan oil curl, enhancing shampoo and conditioner to give her a lot of moisture, especially for mannequins when they're they dry out. Pretty quickly, looking at her head shape, we have a good crowd Lisa for you who ever went for whena Daniel Deanna hi Gianna, alright, so I just want to say a little something about graduation and fingers right now. If you guys can see my fingers head shape, is our foundation or a point of reference for everything. So what that means is, when I put my hand on the head shape, you can see I'm just following our head shape there. If I pull straight out, that's pro head shape, so anything that I do will take on the actual shape of her head, and we all know that curl likes to be round. So we have to be a little extreme in our angles. If we really want to get this hair to take on any shape other than around my art, director, Ray's helping me out here, alright so again, going in with the fine teeth just to get it nice and clean. Getting my fingers in there like tension, we coming with my white teeth. Now I'm going to go in put my finger on the head, shape, pull out and then pull my fingers out away from the head, and what that does is it gives me you can see that graduated shape? I am going to point cut this down Stephanie from Ulta, Oh from Ulta. That'S awesome! Then we have Laura from New Jersey, Jersey, stay safe, New Jersey and we have Karen from Michigan. Well Karen, not too far from us okay, so you could see. I created that now what I, what do want to do here, so I created this little bit of shape. Don'T worry about these underneath bits as you work, I'm creating a graduation here. This is going to be the nation for the rest of my haircut now. My sectioning is going to go like this we're going to do what we call the fast pivot, so my vertical figure is vertical graduation here in the center. My next section is going to go off that same pivot and it's going to be a little more diagonal. So I'm going from highest to a little bit lower to a little bit lower end angle, absolutely horizontal! So I'm really traveling from slimmer to heavier and what that's gon na do is slim out that middle back, where the head pushes out and intends to push, give that little push out. Uncurl shapes and then, as I go to long it's going to build up and then put a little foundation under there to kind of hold up my haircut all right, Claudia from Michigan, hello, Oh patty, from New York, New York, Michelle from Australia. Oh that's awesome! Why hope bomb in New York? We have our Academy. I am at our New York City Academy, a facilitator there for Moroccan oil brand new Academy. It'S amazing, so I hope that we are all up and running again soon and we can see all of our people there. Ok! So now you can see I'm finding my guide, I'm gon na tuck my fingers a little bit towards the head shape and just wait cut that off got my salsa going in the background. It'S a nice party. This is what we do at home. We have Terry from Ireland, Oh from Ireland, awesome hello, Terry welcome, Robert from India, Wow Wow, hello world. I know, isn't this amazing, it's so great that we can do this, especially now having to be quote-unquote isolated, that we don't have to really feel isolated at all. We have our community, our hairdressing community, so I do want to thank hair brained for having me on today and allowing me to share and hang out with you guys, because you know this is what we love to do as an educator. I miss. I miss all the energy of the people that were with every day, so thank you. Okay, working our way up, Amanda from Vancouver Deanna from your hometown, Baltimore, Oh Baltimore, yeah, originally from Baltimore, hello, crab, cakes, that's right, Gianna and crab cakes, all right! I'M on my last section pulling back very slightly, but you can see where my guide is so I'm basically almost horizontal at this point, lifting my section, okay, Kari, is asking. Why are you point cutting instead of blood cousin? That'S a great question. Why am i point cutting instead of blood cutting, so one of the things about curl shapes? Why, unless you want that effect, when we cut curl with straight lines, it definitely Ted to have that vary a little bit more rigid outline, and so there's no airiness in there. It doesn't look quite as natural. That'S why people will say my hair scalp sculpts, like a bush, because it definitely does, although I do like the little Edward Scissorhands and going on, but I'm point cutting just to put little areas on those ends to free those ends up a bit and then have Them not sit quite as heavy as we go through this haircut. We started this area is our base and work. This is going to hold everything up, I'm using my fingers in this area, I'm going to do a three-step program to free this hair up and it's three steps to tension. So I'm starting with finger tension. My next section, through here I'll, be using the wide teeth of my comb tension, so that'll be tiny bit less tension than this, and then my top area will be completely free hand. So it's going to create that shape that sits on top of the shape Haley Jones from hello from a small village, Monash, Wales, South Wales, so Patti Muller Molnar would like to know what is the length of your blades? These are five and a half inches and I you can go down to five, which I know we're kind of small for a lot of people in these times, but I do like precision cutting okay, so I was vertical here a little bit more diagonal now I Am slowly getting a bit more diagonal? Let me just turn my mannequin for you, so you can see other way there. We go yeah all right cool. Using my Center guide. You can see I'm getting slightly heavier with each section as I go round. Picking up my god, you can see my guide and here I'm gon na work from how to it. But great question I mean you know: blades are it's funny and I always say this: I'm like you can cut with a piece of broken glass if it works for you and you get the results you want. So whatever length works for you, if you're comfortable, I find that I have smaller fingers and also that I only use so much to them. So it kind of disturbs my eye if I use super long blades, although for dry cutting, I have ones that are a little bit longer, but it's a great question. Okay, always coming off my point, my original point, lifting out Evelyn's from Croatia sends her love. Oh one day I will get to Croatia here. It'S absolutely gorgeous. Tomorrow was just staring yes, one of the girls that I work with in salon, and I do you think it's important to say that I do work in salon, my husband ray, and I we have a salon here in the Chicagoland area. So when I turned to me a little bit yep, I think all right um when I am NOT at the Moroccan oil Academy or traveling about hanging with my hairdresser peeps, all over, I am at salon so Kerry is, I would like. Would you would your razor cut this also, you absolutely could razor cut this. I think, depending on how you're, using the razor some people say, you cannot use razor or they're afraid of using razor on curly hair, but it's all in the way that you use the razor and what part of the blade that you're using. We actually have really good tutorials and Kellyanne fakie who's, also one of our artists, and we worked together at the Moroccan oil Academy. She has tutorials on our webpage and I think she's even done some stuff online. Maybe look here brand as well, but she does a whole fundamentals of razor cutting, which is awesome, so Sally says hello from the Philippines and I'm actually part so so Elvia do you use, has a question: do you use blunt cutting at all anymore she's from El Paso, yes, absolutely you know, I don't think that any technique is wrong. I think that, can I see that side, Lisa yep? I think that what we need to do is think about the result that we want from each shape and the material that we're working with. For example, if someone has really fine hair or if they have or you want a super precision shape unreleased right here, if someone has fine hair, if someone has hair or the finish that you want on the edges - is very crisp, then yeah you're going to use Blunt cutting all right so now I'm just going to take this with my comb and I'm going to cut this in the white teeth of my cut. So I'm pulling my thumb down this little towel is getting in my way, pulling my comb down and actually, if you get that that happens and real people have shoulders, you can also get under it, maybe need a little bit bigger section, a little bit more meat In there I'm going, my section is with the head shape, so I'm very slightly curving, just following that head shape. Now in this, I am going to over direct very slightly back. So now, I'm going to put my thumb in there pull this down. Think about where I want my length and just now this hair underneath we're going to clean up later. So don't worry about that! I'M gon na pick that hair up get it into my comb. You can pat it in if you need to I'm gon na find my guide, you can see I'm over directing lately back, I'm looking at where that puts me. So that puts me about at her jawline, which is good this here. Once I get a little bit of a shape here, this hair is going to come off. Okay, so again dropping the second section. I'M going to take my shears pick up a section, get my come under there tap it in make sure that I can see my guide, which I can now you'll notice that I am pointing towards her face. Why am i doing that? I'M pointing towards her face because that's where I want that hair to go. I want that hair in the back to move towards her face. So you can see now I'm getting this little bit of buildup. You can imagine when that's gone, that's going to give us that pump up that we want. So I did that side. Do the same through this side a little bit more. There you go there, we go so again. We prepped her. We shampooed my Maddy, we'll call her Natalia, we shampooed Natalya with curl enhancing, or can we curl enhancing shampoo and conditioner? One of the things that you can see. My manageability is really good. I'M able to come through hurt easily one of the things that we always have as a foundation for our hairdressing is Moroccan oil treatment. I don't know if you guys all know, but our argon based products are amazing for curly and dry hair all right. So I'm just picking up my guide from the other side. Again, I'm going to pull this back a little back. Let'S see where I am lengthwise. I always recommend a tiny bit longer on this corner. I'M always a tiny bit longer on my left. I feel that as humans we have a natural lean to our bodies and we recognize that we definitely try to work with it. But my recommendation would be check yourself before you wreck yourself, but check yourself before you go into another section, because what will happen if I have a little bit of inconsistency in this section, I'm going to carry that through for the whole rest of the haircut. All right so again, can you see that on camera where's my hand in the way, if you turn your mani a little bit more yeah nope the other way? Okay, there you go, that's good! Thank you. That'S the difference is when you're doing like video everything in digital right as opposed to live when we're live, we can walk around. We can see what's happening again so now, on this side, you can see I'm pointing my shears towards the face, something we don't think about right. Sometimes we just point cut along the same direction, pulling this back lightly, so you can see my build up starting. She was permed, so that's why you can see, as we got shorter, that hair just definitely pops up a little now. This is probably gon na bother your eye. You'Re gon na want to cut that now. I personally would recommend that you wait until it's all done, because once this hair is dry and diffused, and you have your whole outline in you're going to be able to see your shape a whole lot better, but you can see from a profile now that's already Starting to pop up right, can you see that right, yep pop it up yep starting to have a grande shape? Now some of the fun comes in now? What we're going to do is a bit of freehand. I have to get in front of that. So when people do freehand um, let me know on there guys do you do freehand haircutting? Are you comfortable with it? You can do it wet or dry curly hair. Also, I know a lot of people ask whether you should cut curly, hair, wet or dry. There'S a couple of components and it depends again what you're looking for very often, we will cut dry this I'm cutting wet, because I do need to cut it wet to do all of the freehand and have it be looking polished and graduated up. Also, there's a concept called stretch and return that you have to think about when you're doing wet hair cutting with curl. So what that means is the on the type of curl that you have and depending on how it springs back. So I call that stretch and return when you stretch it and then you let go of it. How far back does that hair return and what does it do I like to say that wet hair lies and dry hair tells the truth, and I really think that we should believe in the truth and not the illusion. So we have to know what's going to happen when this hair dries up using a little bit of my protect and prevent spray leave-in conditioning that also has heat protection and UV protection, so Deana Fritz's shrinkage, vector of course, yes right, of course, yeah 50 %. Okay. So now I can see my guide underneath this is my guide from the underneath. This is the hair that I have on top when I am freehand cutting, I'm cutting from the top of my strand, I'm going to take kind of long skinny strands as opposed to wide sections. So are those vertical sections: it's vertical, absolutely vertical sections and not too wide when you know where you want to land you're coming from the top you're putting the hair just very back at that back corner of your blades, not in the middle, because it makes it Hard and we'll get chunkier cuts. You want a very fluid cut when you freehand and you do want to travel a little bit, but not too much because then you'll get skinny skinny. Yet so I'm looking visually, where my guide is, I'm going to start just a little above it. You can see the angle. My shears are almost flat and just walk, walk, walk down that line now, when I'm free hand cutting I'm still using the same fundamental concepts as I would with any other haircut right. So I'm looking at my elevation, I'm looking at where I'm holding that hair. I am going to very slightly over direct these sections back to the previous, just like I would, if I were precision cutting so David's, asking you're still using a lot of tension and that's a great question David. Thank you, I'm using very light tension so just enough to kind of see my guide and then my guide sort of goes away, and you can see I just sort of softly. Let that hair relax a bit. Is that a disconnect er and that's also an awesome question from David hi David? It'S a disconnected in the sense that I've got overlays, but it's not truly, it does blend. So it's a slight disconnect, especially because I went in and did finger angles created my fast pivot in the nape, where I started here created pivots built from vertical to horizontal to push the shape up. I then used comb tension. I came a little over my name so that, when it shot up, it wouldn't be, quite so disconnected looking. It'S gon na be a very soft layer. On top of that, underneath and now I'm actually connecting my scissors down to the section that I did with my coat now, the difference with what I'm doing here is that again it's going to give a very different finish to the ends with curly hair playing. You can see finding my guide and just taking those ends off yeah Jennifer's, saying it's it's disconnected but connected nor this. This is gon na drive you and that's why you're cutting, but in the end, you'll see why we don't want to do this now. I'M gon na now work on the left side drop this down. Yeah, that's true! Now the other thing about curl. The reason that I do like to cut curl like this and again, if someone's watching me in salon or wherever I'm cutting, they might say - oh wow, you know she's just randomly going at that hair. There is no randomness at all in this right. Just gon na refresh her a bit with my protectant for that I like it because it keeps it a little bit wetter. I also mix it into my water bottle for salon, and the other thing is again when curl sits very heavy like this at the edges. It'S because it tends to shrink up, and then it also tends to just kind of solidify on those edges. So when we cut and leave air or space between the strands, what that does is give it an area effect and a more ethereal feeling on those ends. All right, yeah emesis, yes, as you can see, I have quasi curly hair myself, maybe just messy, but so I know that I don't want it to be too perfectly done. It'S like perfectly imperfect and you can see my guy there pulling right. Sally says nice. I, like it yeah well, the fun thing is right now, while we are quarantined, we all have time to train and to play right. So that's something that we want to do for ourselves right now, it's hard to stay motivated all the time. Believe me, I know sometimes I put myself so on and I'm just dancing around the house and not doing here, but you know it's nice to have some thoughtful creative time for sure. So Lisa are you using the white two -- there comb? I am using the white teeth and why is that? Yes, because it gives me a little less tension again. I want to leave this curl someone in its natural form to some degree, so I don't want to overly pull it out. I want to be able to see that jump back, see the return on my stretch and, if I, if it's overly wet, which is another point bringing us to being overly wet if it's sopping and dripping you're gon na see a lot more stretch and you're going To think it's a lot longer than it is pulling this back almost pulling that back to an almost square guy on these corners just to fill that space in a little bit better check myself tiny bit here so Deanna's has less tension, less tension, absolutely okay! So again you can see my build up happening, so the sectioning that I had I had straight across on my nape, so I had my knee where I did my fast pivot. I have almost quadrilateral sections, so they're four-sided sections. So I had a section here that was about perhaps two inches deep on top of my fast pivot nape area, and that was where I did my comb technique pulling down with my cow holding the hair with my cone and cutting point cutting that out. Above that, I also have these quadrilateral sections that I'm working on and I am working side to side because I'm balancing, in other words, I'm doing my right section and then during my left, section. Okay, again now, you're really starting to see how much hair has been coming off. The big thing about this doing the scissors down is the angle of your shears, just traveling, very slightly and then also coming from the top you'll see when we do our detailing on the dry haircut that we're going to be coming from a different angle. On that to kind of air out those curls, but this is starting you're starting to see when that would be dry. How that we left out so Kerry so nice to have so many people, much love from Berlin. I can't pronounce the name. I don't want to mess it up mighty. Sorry, all right Shawna wants to know. What'S your Instagram tag, it's at Moga and Oda Li za and the number two it's actually here behind us, along with the hair brained Instagram and our Moroccan oil, proud Instagram lots of fun stuff on there. So I'm dropping! You can see that the sectioning is coming. A little bit, it's almost very slightly diagonal, not very much at this point, but on what I'm doing is just keeping a little bit of weight right here behind it here because again at this point, this is where we need to to see that. So I'm just raising this up and make sure I'm not going into that area too much so Sondra McCain says that I'm a hairdresser and it's nice to see you share your passion. Oh thank you. Thank you. Thank you Sundra! It'S. We have to support each other right, I mean this is so great. I love that I'm able to go online and see all these artists sharing digitally right now, because of what's happening. How we're all at home. But one thing I have to say about hairdressers were not complacent right, we love what we do depends in the what we do and we share it. So that's the best part of our jobs, all right. So now my sectioning, you can see I'm almost taking a slightly diagonal sectioning because I'm pushing this hair, I'm rolling on the head, shake and pushing this here, just kind of one section back, so my elevation, if you could see when I was I was low when I did my comb technique that, as I moved up, I'm just very slightly shifting my elevation by the time I get to this top I'll be absolutely perpendicular to the floor. So what that does is it gives me a very slow but precise graduation going up. It'S amazing. Sometimes we do these haircuts and it's just amazing how precise that can be, but we are using all the same fundamental concepts of haircutting just because it's freehand doesn't mean that were just you know, going nuts, it's no plan. You'Ve always got to have a plan or a roadmap as I like to call it. So Becky is enjoying your life from the UK. Oh, I can't wait until we can travel again and we have Kathy from Nova Scotia I've gone many times to the Montreal Jazz Fest and I'd like to watch the Maritimers there from boba scotia with their bagpipes. We have mercy from Ireland and Tracy from New York. What do you think guys is this off shaping up well you'll, be able to see the full video as well on the hairbrained page once we're done, I'm just gon na add a little water again, this Sondra's from Fresno Kelly, hey, I love Fresno NorCal, hey! I have to say you know: I'm an accidental hairdresser. I fell into hairdressing by accident and I've done nothing since when I was in college and hairdressers are the best people for sure fire Mary all right. So again you can see I'm pulling a little bit back to the previous section. I can see where my guide is. You can see that my fingers getting a feel for it and just coming across that, so the other thing about it being perfectly imperfect is that when things sometimes are too connected, especially with curl, that's when they become a little less interesting. So that's what's great about having these very soft disc actions. I know someone mentioned that it's disconnected but not disconnected earlier, and that that's really great, because what happens is because the lines are not as hard or as precise. They tend to be softer in the flow and they just kind of sit there all right. So that's great! So that's that part of my BOB. You can see where that would sit up there right so Kathy from Nova Scotia says, keep us in your prayers. They had a match murder yesterday. Yes, definitely so sad to hear that, thank goodness we can spread some positivity and cheer that we have to look for that. Sometimes it's too much to just see all of the sad news, even though have to keep up right, we're going to come out stronger and better, though especially our industry we're a bunch of Tuffy's em. I would like to know what is it the best hair dryer? Ah, we have, we actually have there's a lot of really good hair dryers out there. We have our Moroccan one, which is the one that I'll be using. This is our brand new one. Ionic try stay here pretty quickly. I love it. I'M super particular because I like good - and I like good heat factor, so I can get both of those with this dries quickly and keeps the hair super healthy. That'S one of the things that Moroccan oil that we're always focus on is doing what we need to do, but keeping the hair in great condition as well, because it's our fabric, but that is my favorite and I'm not just saying that. So what he doing there now so we came through my sides. I had an ear to ear radio party, approximately at the high point. Coming through my side. You can see. I left this little bit of my top back panel in. I will come back to that and overlay that once I get this in I'm going to take my first section and I kind of rounded diagonal back, which you can see my way and instead it on my back what I did in this area. I did it with my comb, I'm not going to do it with my comb Here. I am going to use my scissors down technique and again this is critical right here, because you can see the area that I'm working in I'm going to come below and just take a bit of that off and you can see I'm fairly right on point with, Where I want to be, but I had to drop my hand and my shear a little lower than what I thought to accommodate for that spring back so again, I'm going to pull this down coming below my section now. What will this do? For me, this will give me again those edges that are a bit softer, not so hard and a little area for my curl, so Deanna loves, Deanna Fritz loves the mannequin in the background. Ah, another rose pink, that's actually and rose gold mixed from our Moroccan oil. Color depositing mask thank you and she was over a lighter blonde, so you will get to see that in a bit all right. So because I've been around the diagonal back section you can see. I am getting on purpose a little bit of a rise up on my line and that's what I want to see my carry on and come through. I'M coating that, but I'm airing it out so that it doesn't stay too heavy too flat. My second section, I'm just going to blend in I'm, not going to elevate that much I'm going to stay fairly low elevation. So Desiree says that it's like trimming a hedge, it's about overall shape. It is so true. I'Ve been practicing by trimming my hedges out outside at the house too. I think I posted on my story. Last week I have the big hedge trimmers, and I said you know when you miss cutting hair right. It is, and it is about the silhouette. That is absolutely true. That'S what you've got to keep in mind is your silhouette and how do we get there all right, looking good, so I'm gon na drop that now I'm going to connect this in with my a little bit more of my right top there. We go we're gon na start from my friend now I can elevate just a tiny bit more because I've got my base line secure. Looking at that hair, I also - I don't know if I said, but I did use my hydrating styling cream, also as a cutting motion, which I love to cut with the hydrating styling cream in it gives it a little bit. More slick keeps especially with curls a little bit of that formation, so I can see the shape and then also keeps the moisture content you know which is important when you're working with curly hair. So I'm just going to finish off my right side. Don'T worry if you have little pieces all the pieces, don't have to be exactly the same. The whole point of this is that every piece of hair on the head does not have to be exactly the same length and what it looks like can see what it looks like wet and what it will look like dry are two different things when this dries Up these hairs will combine more if you have the random hair. If you're in there that sort of comes out of your shape, you can address that dry. Not a big deal shoot sorry, you stop scrolling oops Meg from Philly. Thank you for joining and saying hello. It means so much like I said, especially when we feel a bit isolated. It'S really nice to just get out in our community and hang out with other hairdressers. Okay, so coming to my left side, so Deana is a great question. What about a client who strains their hair as well as well? That is a really great question. What I would say Diana is that I would make sure that all of your edges on this are precise and work well together, and then your interior can still be a bit looser, no problem. I would maybe, if they straighten the hair as well. Once I got the haircut in, I would blow-dry it straight then. So I could see what it's doing straight and then in your refining or your detailing you'll definitely be able to see what you need to do to make it work for both ways. But yes, that's a really good question yeah here, we'll live where, where it lands exactly what she said, yeah it's true, it's true and again your interior can be a bit more disheveled or shattered and have a little bit more textural movement. As long as her edges and her framing you're all good, then she it's not she's good, not going to it's not going to bother her she's going to love it, and I do have some guests that are like that. Alright, so like we did. On the other side, I have my bit of diagonal back sectioning, I'm going to start blending this side with my length. Now you could make this symmetrical asymmetrical, whatever you like, because I have a diagonal, a slight diagonal back section, there's a little rise up. I mean I am going to work with that. I want to leave a little bit of rising, but I'm gon na come down. I'M not going to put too much tension on this, go a little below my line and take that off and see where I am and you can see. I was about an inch or so below my line, but it popped right up to where my line was so it's also about there's different types of curls. As you all know, some are springier. Some are softer something bounces much so if you are wet cutting curly hair, I would say determine how much spring back you're going to get from that all right, hello, Chava from Vancouver. Ah hello, so Jill says we all need inspiration, we're gon na be busy when we get back soon. That is so true, thanks for sharing that that's right, we got ta enjoy arrow a little bit of downtime now all right. So let's get this last section. Well, I think that's another reason to kind of keep your hands moving too, because it's easy to not do stuff while we're home, but if we keep our hands moving and flexible, even the muscles right, we'll be okay. When we go back, we won't be getting all crampy. All right again, so Deanna wants to know, has some types of and sometimes surprised you cutting, not sure what you means, but have I been surprised with cutting you mean with curl, not sure. Definitely, I've gotten a lot of surprises with hair cutting right, because hair is a natural material. Definitely, you know there are rules and they're things that should be and shouldn't be, but there's always some something or some hair that just doesn't do what you think. It'Ll do and Rihanna Brown says hi Lisa Raye. Thank you for sharing today, hi so great to hear from you Dave from Mexico. Oh cool. We did a live with Moroccan oil, Mexico last Friday. That was so much fun all right, so I'm carrying on now I'm gon na start elevating this a tiny bit more we're getting there. Obviously, I would work a lot faster in salon now, I'm coming through my back, because I've got some hair left in that back. Take this hair down combing, it always natural thought. Diana said earlier, working with the way that the hair lives where it lives how it falls. That'S, what's what it's going to do, especially if she air dries it or if it's curly and she diffuses it. It'S not going anywhere, but we're in this all right lifting a bit more now getting that graduation, you guys have been so great. This has been a lot of fun, you'll, be able to rewatch it again. If you need to. I hope that you can play with this at home and you got some good concepts out of it. Okay, lifting back here, find me my hair. This is my last section here and then we're gon na go to that very top section, so for how's. That looking be good, I think I need to step away right. You need to step away and see the hair think so yeah. I think that's pretty good again. If we take this off right, which we will do alright. So now I can see my silhouette show the silhouette Lisa there. You know - and this is the other thing that I love about having products in the year - is that it also helps it to form a shape while you're working, so I can actually see the shape. That'S getting put into the hair as it starts drying slightly, so this kind of tells me where I want to be on this hermès. I'M actually gon na take that off now, so you can see it oops, her top is slipping alright. So I'm really you can. It almost tells me where to go so I'm just gon na take this off play cut right down on her neck. This word gassed. I probably tell her you're going to feel my shears on your neck, no big deal, so I'm laying them right down on her neck and just taking that right up to that hairline. I'M John, I probably would wait more like in salon. I'D wait until the very end to do this, but I really want you to be able to see that okay, because now you're able to visualize and see that shameful bit better. Is that right right, looking good seeing that better, okay last portion and then we're done so this top you can see, is kind of a soft triangle shape so Meg says, looks terrific Marcy says is beautiful and Sara says: is this technique only for to wear it? Curly hair. Oh that's a great question. Thank you. Oh thank you all for for saying that you're so kind and Marcie was that Marcie right Sara. I was like the nose. This is technique only for curly, hair and absolutely not because you do it on straighter, wavy or any other type of hair. What you're going to get is just a bit more shatter feeling on the interior not as connected, but you'll still get a shape. Absolutely alright. So now what we're going to do is I've got my top section, which is this very soft triangle section. Should we be able to flip this and wear it to either side I'm going to cut it on the bias and what that means is I'm gon na pull everything here? I'Ll have a stationary guide here? Have a stationary back here, pull it all out here. Everything will come to this spot that, on the other side, everything will come to this spot. What cutting on the bias means? It'S actually a sewing term. Let me just pick her up. It'S actually a sewing term, and it very simply means that you're cutting diagonal to your line. So this is my line, I'm cutting diagonal to it this way, and what that does for me is it allows this hair to drape beautifully over the shape. So I'm going to pull everything here, I'm setting up my guy pulling from underneath and I'm very simply going to point cut this down. Going back to my point: cutting soft tension flip that up and I'm going to just very softly and loose - I'm not going to pull really hard on this. Just take that off and that's going to give me my final elevation through that top pulling everything to this point again, you can see basically, I'm quite parallel to the floor, wide teeth of my own soft fingers and soft pull on that going in finding my guide Softly point cutting fairly neutral to get this length off through the top. We might go like two or five minutes over Roman time, they're always having to hook me hook me off the stage. Okay, there we go soft, soft soft with my fingers. You know. Sometimes we want to really kill the hair, like this whole section now back to this corner, it's kind of like when you watch the talk-show host and all those guys write like their kids are running across the set. So is that a moving guide, Lisa or is it all the way, a stationary stationary? Okay on this corner - and I pulled everything diagonally from the front left corner all the way back to that guide and cut it there and now I'm gon na do the same thing on the other side, so I'm gon na do it now on the back left Corner you can see, look at that, that's for my over direction and I'm going to pull everything back across the top of the head to that point, and that would be, and the only thing you would do then after that is we would defuse. I would use our curl defining cream, which is one of my favorite products, because it's not too heavy, not too Airy gives a great kind of aa definition to curl wraps around it and makes it look really supple so pulling across. So Judy would like to know. Is that, like the wedge of the eighties haha great question, you know it has some components of that of the wedge, which, because that naturally rounded sectioning, that I did on the sides. That definitely was a component of the wedge. That was part of the blueprint boat. But it is a little bit more modernized, but that's a great idea. It'S true, but these shapes a little bit. Heavier shapes a little bit more geometry. These are all coming back in and it's really nice to see. I'M with curl it's nice to see curl that had some shape. It is not just long and hanging because they're all afraid to come into the salon right: okay, so showing us since her love and Alyssa yeah Lissa. Are you cutting hair with tension because she wouldn't cut it with tension? Curly hair would tension, no we've been using varying degrees of minimal tension, so you're absolutely correct. So now that I've gotten that I'm able to come around the front and see where I want this to be and just make that fit into my shape, you could also dry it and do it dry, but you can see this is the shape that I've gotten. This is a graduated curly, hair cut softly, disconnected throughout the different sections, and then this was the final. She was softly, diffused without curl defining. If you wanted to, you could put a little bit of our root boost in at the base before you diffuse, just to give a little bit more lift if their hair is super heavy. But this was our final. What do you guys think? I hope that you enjoyed that you'll be able to watch through the video again like I said, I'm so happy, and you know thank you for joining us to be able to do this today. Curl is one of my great passions, because I think that a lot of people that have curly hair, as I said earlier, are really salon shy. So my recommendation is practice with curly hair. It'S just the texture learn how to work with it have fun with it. Educate your guests on how to take care of their hair. They often don't know what products to use, how to use them, how to style and just do great hair and have a lot of fun. So I want to thank hair brained for allowing us to take over their site for the last hour and also to Moroccan oil. Thank you to all of you, I'm Leeza Espinoza. These are our tags. If you want to follow us all on Instagram, hair, brained, Moroccan oil Pro and myself have a great day out there ma ciao