Step By Step Women'S Haircut: How To Cut Short Hair With A Fade

Her hair is really going to absorb this product, so i just want to - and it's dense too so it's quite thick, so i'm going to make sure that we really get it all throughout from roots to ends and then i'm going to grab some of the control Freak and just work that way that product all the way through as well work and layer that control freak right on top of the copper right split in cream and get it from roots to ends all throughout trying to balance out that porosity. Especially since it's been pre-lightened just kind of work that through so right now, what i'm doing is analyzing the pre-existing haircut, and so what i want to do is kind of narrow. This section out a little bit and balance it out a little bit. So i'm going to work with what's pre-existing there, but i'm just going to clean this up, just really paying attention to that growth pattern and bringing this up a little bit just slightly to incorporate that into the underneath and then we're just going to do the same. On the opposite side, and what i usually like to do is blow dry, the underneath and usually when we're doing clipper cuts. Normally, what you'll see is a lot of you know. Barbers or just hairdressers will immediately start working on dry hair and clipping this out of the way when it's dry, obviously working on. You know clean hair, but i usually regardless um. If the hair is like super short or even on a male, this is just a preference. I i like to just wash the hair wash the hair anyways, because usually the client either has been wearing a hat or either slept on it or has styled it. A certain way - and it has products, so i like to start on a very, very clean palette, which allows me to work on a natural fall. How the hair just naturally grows out the head shape. So i'm going to dry this, and this is also like no product so usually with products. Sometimes the hair is either bunched up and then you get more of a stronger cut or blunt cut or heavy line, and when it's clean, the hair is kind of separated. The distribution is a little bit more, like separated, out and and again from natural fall, how it truly falls from the head shape. So i just prefer it that way. Yes, it's it's quicker if you probably start with somebody's hair when it's dry, but this is just going to give me its purest form of natural fall all the way throughout and just seeing what her hair does. So we're just going to grab the dryer here and just kind of start that and then again i'm just balancing this out. This was just a little bit lower from the left side. So i'm just going to balance that out and incorporate this bit into the fade and then just kind of that's pretty much going to be my section from the top. It'S pretty much a horseshoe that narrows out and comes down to above the occipital and kind of works, a little bit more from high recession from corner to corner, just lifting this up set natural fall and just building a very like classic block graduation right. On top of her existing weight line, just to remove this excess length and then we're going to start the graduation pretty low as far as where the tightest begins from like lower recession and then from below the occipital. That'S where we're going to place the the the no guard, which is pretty much zero it out all the way through the preference you can start in the back. I'M going to start on the side here, just letting the clippers flat on the skin and using some soft stroke, strokes, elevating it out. This allows us to blend that line a lot easier instead of leaving a line of demarcation, so you're just bringing it out slightly out of 45. It'S very subtle, very quick and what's cool. Is that definitely utilizing your comb, this we're at low recession and so we're bringing this out at a diagonal bat bringing it down low to below the occipital. So inside of that, if we're wanting to reach below the occipital from this point to this point, then the fading process is going to be very small over the ear it's going to get about like an inch wide right behind the ear and then wider. As you go down the hairline okay, so it's very subtle, so you definitely got to visualize, where you're at on the head shape as you're, creating your your design, if you notice we're using the whole blade. This is just a quick removal of weight and then slightly elevating it out very subtle, strokes, we're not scooping in and then scooping out again. If you go in perpendicular you're going to leave a line of demarcation, i like to kind of just lay it flat on the skin and work with the head shape. If you notice my hand, position is important as well. I'M using utilizing my index finger and my ring finger all the way down to my pinky just to cradle the clippers. My thumb is placed in the center of the actual clippers like right here in the middle and not too high, not too low and just kind of cradling, this up and down for control and then sometimes to use the opposite hand for more stability as well again. Staying right below the low recession and then coming down at an angle, we notice that the actual blade of the clippers is flat and because, in this area, at this point of the head shape, it starts to kind of round in. So your clippers are already 45. You see you don't really have to do such a dramatic movement, because at this point of the head shape when you're working at low recession, it starts rounding in. So it naturally built that graduation for you, because the head is coming out at a 45 degree angle. Already, but if you're working your clippers in in this manner, then yes you're, going to leave a line of demarcation and so right now we're completely closed inside of our lever inside of the andes masters you have, like you, know five notches and so we're gon na Go all the way down to the third notch, and that's gon na give us a little bit of a guard and that's where we're gon na start the blending in process and slightly elevate that out. You see where this is a very dark shaded area, we're going to remove a little bit of that weight and we're going to do that slow, build up of of graduation. This is where you want to manipulate your your clippers and use, maybe just the edges of the clippers here in these small areas and not use the whole blade since i'm working more of a diagonal back, i'm angling, my clippers in that manner here on this area, I'M gon na watch out for her eyebrow there, so i'm just gon na use the edges of my clippers just to really get that little corner around the ear. Since sometimes you know just your body position right now. My elbow is kind of down into my ribs. A little bit so i'm just using the corner of the blade in this area coming the the hair down just so. I could kind of make sure that i'm grabbing everything that i need so just really paying attention. As far as when you use the whole blade. When you're able to do that and then on, you know areas where the angle is kind of awkward, just using the very edge of the blade see paying attention to those really dark areas and grabbing that that extra hair. Okay. So now we're going to open the the blade all the way down to the bottom, so you see as far as like my stroke as i'm fading up, it's a little bit more aggressive. I'M you know moving up the head a little bit higher, paying attention to the weight as well that it's consistent as i'm working around the head shape right now, i'm just kind of pivoting off the top back of the ear, the highest point, just kind of pivoting Around and then just coming in the front and then working my way back, so we're still pretty much full open levers completely all the way down. Just taking that little extra weight here before i put a guard on the clippers and then just a deciding factor, whether i'm you know horizontal or angled or going in the opposite direction. It just varies from what you see inside of just the blending the line, but especially more so from how her hair just naturally grows. Sometimes i'm heading in this direction working my way towards the front, but sometimes it doesn't catch the hair because of the growth pattern and so i'll just switch my angle just so i could catch the hair. So that's pretty much. You know the deciding factor inside of just switching that around and then, of course, around the ear, i'm just kind of pivoting around the ear area, because it's a small area right there. So i don't want to just jump completely high and then raise that graduation too. High before you know, i need to so now that we've had, you know just the whole transition from you know the completely closed to completely open we're gon na go through it and close this up and put a zero guard and then we're gon na. Do zero guard kind of halfway and then completely open and, depending on you know how short this length is if it still catches a little bit again, the head rounds out out, i'm gon na go straight up so that way, you'll have a little bit of a Graduation on top, so i'm not going to completely disconnect it and it'd be completely just bald, so definitely want to build that graduation. All the way up and leave a little bit of length through the top to work with. So now we have the zero guard and then completely closed all the way through i'm just gon na work about half an inch up, and i love this guard - it's a 1 16 and we call it the magic eraser between the skin and and the hair. Pretty much so it helps to really blend that line nicely most clippers inside of the plaque packaging. Don'T have it so you definitely want to purchase the 1 16 zero guard. It'S that nice transition from no hair to hair, and if you want to use your comb as a guard as well just it allows you to kind of just stop that buildup of graduation, where you need it to. As you continue to work up the head shape and then also being mindful of your clients, head position is going to make your work a lot easier as well. So i'm just going to work it a little bit higher right here around the recession. So that comes down at an angle, not quite so horizontal. I want it to come higher and then lower. I could bring this in a little tighter, that's just going to create a nice balance of the graduation on both sides, making sure that the the weight kind of sits the same on each side. So, just being mindful of that, so we're going to continue with the zero guard and with the lever halfway open and continue to remove that weight in between making sure we're laying the clippers flat and just slowly elevating out very subtle. Keeping in mind we're coming out slightly at a subtle 45, so just pushing that head down. It'S going to stretch the hair to really jump out and pop out of the head shape, especially in those areas that tend to bunch up. So we're switching to the one guard and the lever is completely closed and then, with this, i'm definitely gon na use the calm to kind of as an addition. As far as a safety precaution that way, i'm not going to go too far up the head shape as well as it allows the distribution to be clean, as i'm working my clippers all the way through as the hair starting to air dry. I'M going to place my velcro strips there so that any baby hair that might want to you know jump down into the fading portion. It'S going to just hold all those little short bits out of the way and now we're just going to open it all the way through and just take a little bit more of that length off through the top. So it's just adjusting that weight just slightly her length is pretty much at a good length where we need it to be, so i see a little bit of weight right there, so i'm going to bring it down halfway through and get that little bit. That'S just hanging out so as you're also visually building the shape just kind of paying attention to that as you're working the shape through you could always kind of switch back and forth between the levers see a little bit of weight through there. So i'm just going to go back and switch that halfway through. I want to get grab a little bit more of that corner a little weight right there going back a little bit halfway through. So i'm going between like opening the the clippers and opening the lever. All the way through and then going back and closing it halfway. So at this point, you're just also visually working through the shape inside of just blending, where you see some really dark shadow shadows as well. But sometimes you see a little bit of that weight there, because the head's kind of coming in and there's some different areas and where the bone structure just kind of pops out and it makes it look lighter and then darker. So don't you know worry too much about that. That'S just the head shape. Some things that you can do inside of that is just using the very edges of your clippers and see if it catches it a little bit but you're, just using the very tips of it to see. If you could kind of grab a little bit of that hair just to buffer some of those areas out, this is just detailing. That'S all we're doing right here is just detailing, and so i'm just kind of buffering it and just using the very edges of the clippers in a circular motion see this area where it kind of dips and then the bone kind of protrudes out. So i'm just going to use the edge and just buffer that out and see if i could work a little bit of that line out. That'S just extra detailing see a little bit of it right there. I don't want to remove it completely using the opposite end. Just buffer some of those areas out right here as well, see it a little bit right there, just using the edge. You could use it as circular motion and just buffer that out or you could even go up and down and texture a little bit of that weight out just to lighten that area out just two little subtle techniques that can really make the biggest difference inside of Blending from zero to your length, so what we're going to do now is grab our andes, trimmers and we're just going to go through and just clean up the hairline just so it could be super clean and crisp, and so just going through it and just really Rapidly just kind of fading that out, so it's almost like, there's no line there and then just detailing around the ear. Sometimes there's like peach fuzz, so i just want to grab that and make sure that we catch all of it. Especially here you want to stretch the scr the skin out and then just fade this out and just in a rapid manner, just fade that into the haircut and then this technique. You definitely want to work in a rapid motion and make sure you're not going in there perpendicular it's like flat, make sure the blade is flat because then you'll create a line of demarcation, even though it's zero, you could still do that. It'S gon na elevate out really quickly, so i don't create any lines at all and it gives it a nice smooth, almost bald. You know effect to it, so we're just going to go in and just work a classic scissor over comb just to really get that little bit of a corner and then we're going to go in and just deep parallel point cut into that weight just to soften That line up see it's a little heavy right there, so we're just going to go in and soften that line up and your shears are going to work that the best, because the blade's hitting that follicle just one time versus the clippers. It hits the hair follicle. Like at a high speed, so it's catching that cuticle multiple times making it super blunt. That'S why a lot of clipper cuts grow out versus the blade is just catching it once and a lot of times it's out of 45 angles, so the grow out's a lot softer. So i like to definitely always do a combination of the two. So you definitely want to master your scissor overcome technique because you're definitely going to need it. If you really want to get like the best end result, it definitely gives it a softer effect and more so, especially when you are working on a female. That'S very important. You want to have that strong edge to it, but mixed in with a little bit of that softness, especially right here around the recession, where her hair is like so baby soft. Sometimes it's hard for a clipper to kind of get and catch all that hair. So you're you're definitely your comb and utilizing scissors. What comb is going to help out with that? All right we're going to begin with the top i'm going to start with the profile parting, so starting from the back we're going to analyze where her perimeter sits. We'Re going to definitely bring the back a little bit shorter and then she definitely liked her length in the front and we're going to work towards that so right, this area. This is where we want to shift the weight. It sits very heavy. So i'm going to clean it up and just bring it about an inch just so it sits right underneath the occipital and then work that line all the way through a low elevation and she has a strong cowlick there. So that's not even going to reach so we're just going to clean up this little bit right here, right, be starting behind the ear and connecting that through and starting to angle. That line down so we're going to move on to the opposite side, really paying attention to her natural growth pattern and still working at a very low elevation. Just placing your shears right on your ring finger as your point cutting. So you could really get a nice texture on the ends. A nice lived and feel so we're just going to bring all this back we're going to set in a radio parting, and she has a lot of like wicked growth patterns. So it's going to be fun. So we're just going to work a offset profile guide, utilizing the perimeter as a guide to link. So this is going to allow us to release some of that weight on the crown area, slice that out working off the round, i'm just going to pivot that and bring everything back to the guide. Now the reason i chose the guide to be on the left side is she likes to flip her hair more towards the left, and so that's going to allow that that length to be longer on that right side and a little bit more texture on the left Side and obviously we're going to reduce a little bit more of that weight on that left side so that when she does flip it in this direction, it's not as heavy. So it's not much. I wouldn't pivot, i'm just going to go ahead and take that whole section and bring it over to the profile over direct that towards me, and since this is just a slight bit that i'm cutting i'm just going to go ahead and point cut that out usually Slicing works when i'm taking a little bit more of a length off, so we're going to take that offset guide all the way through as well, and we're just going to connect and work that short to long line. Subtle right here, we're just dusting that length off. So you're going to separate that guide, we're just going to continue with verticals and then bring that to the stationary guide. I just so happened that i got my nails done to match her her hair, all right, so that barely reached, so we're just going to comb that straight down and then continue on the opposite side. Go ahead and place that profile parting back in there. And since this is the side that doesn't have much hair, i'm just going to pull it all the way up to the stationary guide and just dust off whatever reaches her hair's super dense super dense. It'S an awesome problem to have so, as you can see, as i'm combing through i'm using the white side of my comb on someone with medium to finer density, then you just use just the regular side go back and utilize the razor to reduce a lot of This weight and we're going to take small sections because again her hair is super thick. If you take anything bigger than that, you're just going to cause another weight line, so you're just going to use the very tips of your razor and just go in mid shaft out and re release some of that weight. So i'm just going to work pivoting from the opposite side and then work horizontally as i'm working towards the front and the other reason i'm taking really small sections again when the hair is wet, tend to take a lot more weight out than what you would when It'S dry, so you definitely want to be mindful of that and not take it lightly because it comes right off just like butter and just being patient with this process and working cleanly is very important, because you could easily cause daycare to feel thicker. So, just working cleanly making sure that you're taking the right amount again anything larger than this is just going to create another weight line inside of the shape and again we're just going to since she pushes this way we're going to work vertically. Everything from in front of the ear from the apex forward, i'm just going to remove the weight in the same manner. This is not and not necessary because of like the the way the hair is going to push. Yes, i mean she pushes more towards the left, but also what's comfortable. For me, inside of my height somebody was taller, they could easily continue working horizontally, but also adjusting where it's also comfortable for you all right, so we're just gon na go ahead and start drying. The haircut and then, if i need to, i could always go back and with the shears texturize and release weightify if it's necessary. So now that we have dried her hair just used a very flat wrap technique and working with the paddle brush. So we could get it really flat. Her hair is so dense and it has a little bit of a weight pattern, so she's going to have like that natural volume anyways, so i'm not trying to really blow it out and having to go back and fight it later. So now, what we're going to do is just really soften some of these lines. Up we're going to bring this out at the round, we're just going to go in there and deep parallel point cut and release a little bit more weight right there. It'S already pretty thin, so we're just going to skip that just really paying attention to the areas that are heavy, that the razor didn't get. So it's heavy here not going to texturize there, maybe a little bit there. It'S very important as well that we're grabbing very small sections so that we don't cause her hair to feel thicker and then we're just going to grab it closer to the root. So i can really go in a little bit deeper and then this is also going to allow us to really make it seamless not trying to create another weight line in the haircut, so the smaller the section, the better on like really thick hair when you're texturizing. This way, you don't lose the integrity of the external line when you're texturizing as well here we're just going to grab it at a very low elevation and just soften that perimeter. We'Re going to work. This work in the same manner horizontally apparel point, cut [ Applause ]. Here i'm going to do as like a c curvature right on the edge of that. So you can do combos as well, and then you could even like carve like a short to long line, because this this section is pretty translucent already so um pin attention on when you need to switch that technique out just to allow for more separation in the Haircut, that's pretty translucent, so i'm just going to go in there and do like a short too long same here, usually the front area around the hairline. It'S still pretty dense on her, but it's the most. It'S a finer area on most people. So not every single section needs to be texturized. I just want to look through it and then here we're just going to bring it back down and we're just going to do. Some sea curvatures carve some deep separations in there. If i'm already seeing that depth and separation - and this is without finishing product - then you're good you're golden and that's what you want to do - this is some surface cutting that i'm doing that's the effect that you want your your haircuts to technically get to this point. We don't want to utilize the products to kind of hide. You know heavy spots. We want to utilize our products to enhance the shape you see right there. I see a little bit of a like heavy spot right there, so i'm just going to carve a little bit of a short too long in there alright. So i'm done i'm just going to go in and utilize some wax and really style out her shape. I'M going to start from the back and then work my way to the front, so we're done with havela's hair. Obviously doing this really cool disconnected haircut fade from zero and build up to a graduation point and then really work more of a short to long line. Inside of the layering a little bit more of an offset so that she's able to kind of switch her hair around, but especially when she's switching it to the left side, she's going to have less build up of weight on this left side. So it's going to feel a little bit more lighter because her hair is so dense. So thanks you