Short Disconnected Pixie Haircut And Hair Color Tutorial

What'S up guys super excited about today's video today, what we're gon na be focusing on is cutting short hair and our fingers, so we're gon na be doing a pixie cut. It'S gon na have a disconnected top we're also gon na color it nice platinum blonde, as well so kind of a bonus add-on at the end of the video. So what I'm doing right now is finding my sections, because you want to make sure that you don't have the section too wide on the top. You want to make sure that's gon na fall right. So what I do is I look for the parietal Ridge. I go a little bit below it, so it's it's a little heavier and then I follow that back to the high point. Where the mid crown area I go across the top and then I'm gon na create a second section right in the crown area. It'S gon na be diagonal back for the first line coming off the parietal Ridge and then I go down to just above the occipital bone. I go straight across from there and then I go back up. So I'm basically creating almost like a triangle or a piece of pizza with the tip of it bit off right. So I want. I don't want to have a complete triangle, because I'm gon na use that, as I like, having that horizontal line in there to separate it, but we're gon na be going on the sides. First, we're gon na be cutting that diagonal back on both sides. So you can see there. This is my brand new scissor, it's not out till fall 2018. I'M really excited to be launching it. We have two different sizes, but this has got everything I love in a scissor. If you see the thumb, it has a nice thumb. Groove to it it's got a nice small tang, so it's super comfortable in your hand. It'S also not a removable Tang, which I like. I did a flat screw with. It'S also matte black. It'S got my logo on it and it was manufactured in Japan by Mizutani. So super excited to partner with them on this, because I honestly wouldn't want to have a scissor made anywhere else other than Mizutani, so super excited for that that will be coming out. A lot of you guys want to know how much it is. It'S gon na be living right around between 550 and 599 dollars, we're in production right now, so we will know soon what that price is going, be and a little bit closer to the date of when it comes out, but we're thinking September October. Alright. So, as I start the haircut, I start working diagonal back, so you saw me comb the hair towards the face, and I cut my line directly on the face, gives me a nice hard line. It gives me also a nice visual point to start it and then, as I go through, and I'm obviously speeding this up quite a bit, because everything is very repetitive. But I work with my hands my fingers parallel to the parting, and I work all the way through diagonal back and just cut my section now. The reason I like to put it in my hands as opposed to cutting scissor over comb. There are time and place for scissor over comb, but when you're working on somebody's head shape, Mary's got a little bit more of a rounded head shape. So what I wanted to do is create some nice weight lines, so I like to do that. Every single section I take in my hand. I focus on what my elevation is because the lower the elevation, the more shape I'm gon na, build out the higher the elevation, the more I'm gon na collapse the shape. So I wanted to make sure that I'm creating the right shape for her head shape and making the haircut look the best that I can so I go through. It takes a little more effort, but honestly, I think that this is what separates good haircuts from great haircuts, to make sure that you're really focused on what you want. The outcome of your shape to be so notice. As I go through here, her head shape starts to peel away and when I say peel away, it just means it's getting further away from my hand and as it gets further away from my hand, if I don't change my elevation, then the weight gets starts to Build up more so everything I'm cutting right now is pretty much straight out from the head, but once I get up to that parietal Ridge area, I'm not following the round of the head, I'm over directing everything towards myself, which starts to build up a little bit Of weight I like having that little bit of weight in there, I think it builds a nice shape to the head, but you want to make sure you don't drop it too low and create too much weight within the haircut hope. That makes sense for you guys if it doesn't for some reason. Let me know in the comments below and I'll try to explain it better, but as I work down the head shape as well, and I start to work towards the occipital bone now I keep my finger. My elevation pretty much straight out from the head keeping it collapsed, but this last line that you're seeing right here, that's where I start to drop the elevation. So you see a little bit of buildup of weight. It'S not a lot! I'M not dropping it too far, but I do start to build it up just a bit and I'll start to build it up even more right here in this kind of high occipital bone low crown area, because I want to build out that shape on her head. Mary has a little bit more of a flat occipital bone area, so some of our clients have that and the way that you can kind of counteract that is start to build a little extra weight into the back. So that's just dropping that elevation a bit to kind of give the appearance of a nice head, shape nice occipital bone area. So, as I follow through, what I like to do is continue that diagonal back parting, all the way over to the other right hand, side, corner nape area and then I'll go back through and I'll crisscross it. And what that does, is it's almost like cross-checking it and cutting it at the same time, so it connects the two sides in the back together and I'll. Show you guys more of that in a second, so we're doing the same thing to create the guideline on this side as well. So I go through. I comb the hair towards her face and then I go through and I cut. I noticed right there. I didn't cut it as short, so I go a little bit shorter on that second round, but the reason I I like to cut it first and then take a look at it and then go back through and cut it some more risky. You can't add the hair back on once you cut it off, so you want to make sure you have the right length. So then I use that as my guideline and I do the same exact thing I did on the opposite side cutting palm to Palm keeping that elevation pretty much straight out from the head, almost elevating that guideline just a little bit. So I don't start to build up weight when I don't want to, and I just go through and cut the scissor that I'm using obviously is the scissor that I showed you at the beginning. It'S the scissor that I've been creating and working on with Mizutani. But the thing I like about the scissor, it's a 5 inch scissor, which isn't something I was normally used to working with. But I wanted to start working with a smaller scissor because of the fact that when you're cutting precise hair cuts, you don't want to push the hair and no longer the blade on your scissor. The more push it's going to give to the hair, no matter what there's definitely sharper blade you can get to help with that, but for the most part, the shorter, the blade, the more precise you're gon na get with the cut, because there's no reason to cut Six inches of hair at the same time, so we're making a five inch scissor, which is the one I'm using and also a five and a half inch for those of you that want something a little bit longer. Also, if you want to do scissor over comb work, you can do it a little bit better with a five and a half inch, so we're making both, but I'm really loving, using this 5 inch scissor for the purpose of precision cutting notice, I'm not doing a Lot of clipping at all, really in this section I did pre prep her hair with a little bit of gel, and the reason I use the gel is because it helps give a little bit of hold to the hair as you go through. It helps keep it clean people, call it a cutting lotion, but it's really just a styling product. I like to use a styling product for cutting lotion because of the fact that when you use a styling product, you're consistently combing it through the hair the entire time. So then, when you go back to blow-dry the hair you've already combed that styling product on every bit of the hair as you went so I just that's a nice little quick tip for you guys. So you see how clean that looks. This is one of my favorite things that cause a nice round shape following the head shape, it's one of the most difficult things to cut because you're constantly moving your body. So it's hard to stay consistent, but this is where you're, seeing where I start to criss cross it in the back. So I went one way with it when I cut the left side and now when I'm cutting the right side, I'm coming back over it. So we create almost like an X feeling in the back of the head, which I'm trying to show you now now we're gon na go in. Do some scissor over comb just to do cross-checking. So, on the left side, I went diagonal back, so I'm gon na go diagonal forward and just cross-check it. I'Ve now switched to the five and a half inch blade, and I just follow it up and just clean up any imperfections in the haircut gives it a nice smooth feeling to the haircut. You can see that bottom blade, so I keep one blade, nice and steady and I keep it right on the bone of the comb. So as the hair comes into the comb, it holds it nice for me and then I just cut it off I'll go through. Do a little detail work around the ear. I would definitely challenge you guys to use your scissor more especially around the ear and doing this detail work, but if you really want to you could use a trimmer as well. I just think there's a little bit more of an organic feel when you use a scissor for this stuff, I'm just cleaning up the neckline. I wanted to keep everything very natural around her hairline as well. There'S no reason for me: it's not my style to create nice hard lines in the hairline. I wanted something nice and soft, plus we're gon na be blonde in our hair. So it's already gon na have some kind of built in texture and movement to it. So I didn't want to make it too sharp looking in there it's just again, not my style, using that steady blade to go around the ear. That'S a nice quick tip for you guys if you just pull the ear down and you use the steady blade along the ear, you can cut that nice line around it same thing just working up the hair. I went diagonal back on the right side. So now I'm going diagonal forward up to cross check it. So you can see this build-up that I already started and I talked about Mary - doesn't have a real, strong occipital bone. Well now we're really gon na build it in with our sectioning here. So I'm gon na go vertical with everything. The reason I'm choosing vertical is because it allows me to work more with my elevation, so I can really focus on what I want where I want that hair to sit where I want it to be heavy so notice. My angle, I come straight off of the head shape and I build up weight right away, so the top tip part of my fingers is almost at 0 degrees, if you think about it more. Actually, let's call it 45. Now that I'm looking at 45 degrees, which is gon na, be a nice buildup of weight sitting right at that low crown a high occipital bone area which gives me that nice build up, so you can see how it disconnects on the sides. That'S something fun that we're adding into the haircut. Obviously, if you wanted to connect the back, I would cut this more diagonal back. Keep that crisscross going like we did on the site on the sides in the bottom, but we're gon na. Do this disconnected and it's gon na be connected really more in the center, we're cutting it more of a square feel on the back, so everything's coming straight out from the head which over directs this part right here that you're looking at it over direct it over Directs it back, but then it pushes a little extra weight towards the front. So now we're gon na cut the top, and this is super disconnected right now we're gon na go through slight diagonal forward. We could call it depending on what way she's gon na wear her hair. I'M gon na go in point cutting her hair, because I want to create a lot of texture but notice. It'S on a slight diagonal and the reason I'm doing this because I'm over directing everything back towards me in the back left hand side of the head. The back left-hand corner of that section, because I'm gon na push the weight towards the front right hand corner of the haircut. So if that makes sense anywhere, you pull the hair, it's going to push back the opposite direction, so I want to pull it towards the back left-hand corner, so it pushes the most weight towards the front right-hand corner if that makes sense so pulling it back doing A lot of point cutting in there and then what I'm gon na do is I'm gon na blow dry, her hair and then after I finish it, we're gon na do even more cutting. So don't don't be too freaked out about how disconnected it is right. Now we're gon na do some more techniques to take it a little bit shorter. So I'm using the Paul Mitchell neuro the new neuro blow-dryer, I'm also using the Ergo diamond head paddle brush it's a tiny paddle brush. It'S one of my favorite brushes that I've ever used because I love a paddle brush more than anybody. I think, but a tiny paddle brush is even more perfect because I love it when I'm doing short hair like this, then I go in with the Paul Mitchell. Neuro iron and then polish it off again with another pass of the blow dryer. Now I like to switch up my tools create different textures, so we're gon na go in with the Donald Scott twist razor to create a more shattered appearance of this top portion of the haircut. So I bring vertical sections down almost like, if you guys think about balayage taking those little pieces and then going through with my Donald Scott twist, which is available on free salon. Education com go on there go into the hair and carve kind of a triangular feel. Just to break up that side section now we're gon na go through and cut the fringe area, so I'm gon na carve it right from the very front left hand corner and I'm gon na over direct it towards me and then what that's gon na do is Again, push more weight over to the front right-hand corner of her head, so we're creating that texture, creating kind of a side, bang and then pushing that length off to the side. I love the shape of this haircut. Using the twist is so cool because it's almost like drawing with a pencil just being able to go in there and take the hair that you want off of there and then I go through and do some more point cutting create more texture on the top. Now that I've got the hair blown dry, so you can see this is already a cool haircut. Just imagine when we get done with it and we do the blonde hair color on it as well. So I'm gon na give you guys a quick preview of the blonde hair color. So it's gon na be a one-minute quick video. I used a joy Co Lightner to do it. I'M gon na give you guys the full video of it as well coming up, but I just want to give you guys a preview there's not much to really talk about, except for the fact that I used this joy, Cove aerolite Lightner. I mix that with 20 volume put it right on the scalp. I did that process twice and then I overlay it with a toner to get my end result. So here's the video hi guys, then I go in with an A 9 light ash blonde from joy. Co, it's their vero, capac, color and eye tone it, and I put that right on her wet hair, and here is the end result. Hope you guys liked the video, if you liked the cut, hope you like the color. Let me know thanks for watching