How To Cut A Short Textured Pixie Haircut

Um uh, oh uh, 20 minutes 20 minutes. Everything so will be your last car 20 minutes, everything's, successful everything so so uh. So so do so! So yes, what's up guys? How are you good to see everybody in the chat? I see all of your uh. Your comments, uh everybody's, having a good time already. Thank you guys so much for allowing me a little bit of time to prep uh huge countdown today. This is we're actually breaking records on the uh, the amount of countdown that happened, but guess what we got a ton of things going on today. We'Re gon na cut a short textured haircut, which i'm super excited to share with you, guys we're going to go precision and then we're going to go into texturizing techniques. At the end, we're going to be using my new tool, the tri-razor, if you haven't, picked one of these up they're available for pre-order on shopfse.com. Also, i want to announce that we are live on minerva, beauty's, facebook as well. That'S the wrong thing. Always, let's see where, where are we at minerva, minerva, where minerva at minerva logo it's somewhere on here? Let me see, ah maybe i'll do this. One anyways we're live on minerva, beauty's facebook, and this is not the podcast, so we'll have to do something different, but we can share right here if you guys get a chance, please hit that share button. That'S what this show is all about trying to get as many people into the room as possible. Also, i can see all of your uh chat, your questions, all of that. So, if you have a question type q put it in uh the put in your question. After you type q, and then i can see it in the chat very easily, if you're new to this show type new in the chat, if you're an og you've been watching, this show for now, 70 classes, we've been we've done, 70 classes since march live right. Here on the internet, so um, you know if you've been with me that whole time type og in the chat, love seeing that uh also again we're live on minerva, beauty's facebook, but we're not just live on their facebook. They support free salon, education, they're, the biggest supporters they've, always supported everything that i've done, uh, even my salon. So if you're looking to upgrade your salon, furniture go to minervabeauty.com on the interwebs and you can go shop for all the deals that they have going on. Right now so go to minervabeauty.com biggest thing you can do for me today. This is a free class. All you have to do is just share it. So any of the platforms that you see whatever platform you're on just hit that share button and it would be much appreciated. Oh gee yeah, oh gee, baby yeah, oh gee, look at all these people. We got uh alexa, golin, jello, gela good. We got heather who's new good to see you heather um, robert's new good, to see him wendy awesome. Look at all these people. You guys are awesome and i saw more people from the philippines today on this live stream so far than i've ever seen. So welcome to everybody in the philippines we must be blown up there, which is great all right, cool, so uh. Let me get into let's pump. No, let's do this all right, so uh, real quick. I want to do just a quick rundown again today we're going to be cutting a textured pixie haircut. I want to go short hair and i also want to really focus on creating um precision throughout the back and the sides and then the top we're going to go precision as well. But then i want to show you guys how to kind of texturize that and create tons of movement. I'M also my goal with this one today is to not do so much of a a long fringe. That'S a lot of times what i do in my go-to when i'm cutting a pixie cut today i want to go more of a kind of square top to it, so i think it's going to be pretty cool and fun for you guys to see. Uh we've got connie from the philippines too. This is awesome, welcome connie um all right cool. So let me move these questions down here and i think we are good to go all right cool. So again, if you guys have questions type q put in your question. You'Ll see it right here, uh pop it up so type q. Put in your question that way when i see the chat because the chat's flying through it's on, i see every platform whatever you guys are on, so it goes quick and sometimes i can miss your questions. So if you want a question answered, make sure that you uh hit that q before you ask it um. Where are you located? I want you to cut my hair marie. I want to let you know that um, because i get a lot of phone calls at the salon. I do not take new clients at this moment, we're putting in a feature on our website to where you can submit to be a model for a video. But i have my existing clients like and i'm keeping them, but i'm not taking on any new clients, because i'm doing this all the time i can't be out there doing hair and doing this at the same time so uh. So i do not take clients, but i i'm out there teaching everybody that i can the way that i cut hair and if they want to learn it and you want to go to them, go to stylistlocator.com, because those are the stylists that you're seeing in the Chat right now, and if you want your hair cut by somebody that at least has an inspiration from everything that we're doing here at free salon. Education, you can check that out and if they have a blue check mark by their name, then definitely go to them. Because they're people that meet with me every monday and we cut hair together over zoom, that's part of our virtual cutting club. If you want to be a part of that um anybody out there i'd love for you to sign up it's an awesome thing. We meet every single monday over zoom, it's a tight group of people. I get to know you, i watch you cut hair, you watch me cut hair, we do it together and make those adjustments and all that. So if you want to be a part of the cutting club uh, all you have to do is download our app or go to freesalon education.com. You can sign up there all right what technique, how to cut curly hair layer, all right guys i'll i'll go through some of your questions. Uh love, love, seeing all of them. What color line do you use uh? It depends in our salon. We use paul mitchell. I use joyco quite often um, so it just depends. Let'S see all right, so let me get started on the haircut and then you guys can uh ask questions about that and then i'll answer any of your other questions at the very end, um rebecca. That'S such a good question um. So as i'm getting over to the mannequin, i'm gon na answer this not much of a talker. How can i overcome that so rebecca here's, something i want to tell you and i'm guessing you're a hairdresser and that's why you're asking this question, because it's important in our job to uh have good communication with our clients and one thing i would tell you: i'm Not a great talker either it. It may seem different on the internet because i come on here, i'm a little more animated and all of that. But the reality is in a room, i'm not that talkative. So um one of the things that helped me when i first started out doing hair was just to build up like five great questions that seem to get the conversation going so just decide what ones fit you. I don't want to tell you exactly the ones, but you know then i would go through those and it would start conversation and then it would allow them to talk more. I think, if you're not a great talker being a great listener, maybe you're uh your strong suit, so maybe just start a conversation, listen and react. Instead of trying to push the conversation, some stylists are really good at just talking a lot pushing the conversation where they want it to go. For me, i, like i, like working and listening uh and doing all that, so i think i think you can always customize that all right here we go ready guys. So i want to break down the sectioning real, quick i'll, show you on the mannequin. Actually, i'm going to show you on the head sheets first, so uh. We have this little fun thing going on here, so let me break it down. So let's start the way that we section everything out. So when you look at this um, it might look a little bit confusing at first, but i think, as you guys work through it you'll start to understand this a little bit better. The partings are what we normally do. So we have. We go right across. We split the head in half from everything that wants to be in the back and then everything that wants to live in the front so right behind the ear where the hairline moves. Let me zoom in a little bit oop wrong way. Let'S go to this one. First, so right here where the hairline comes down, that's where you want to section: you want to section a u-shape all the way around the head back to the other hair line that splits all the density. That'S back here, so you can see when you're looking at a head of hair, how much density lives in this part. So this is less hair than this is and because this is less hair, you want to think about the cut differently when you're working on this portion of the head than you do on the back in the back, we're going to be following the hairline following the Round of the head, cutting a layered shape into a graduated shape, so it kind of starts out being more layered because we're going to come straight out from the head once we start moving up the head shape, then we'll start to bring these sections down to meet. To start building up weight, the biggest thing for me, not everybody. Has this perfectly shaped head in the back. Some people have a flat head in the back kind of like me, so when you're building a shape, the thing that's going to make the head look much more natural like if you. If i took away this part of her head, she wouldn't look proportioned very much. Her chin comes out and then the back of her head. If it's flat, it's going to look a little bit different. So what we want to do is we want to pop the weight just a little bit and we want to decide where we want that weight to stack up now. How do you decide how, when to start stacking the weight, how much weight you want right? So what i like to do is just think of this as a 45 degree line that comes straight up from the chin and then my weight would start right about here now you can always set it a little bit different if you want to. But for me i like to just think of this think of everything as lines right, so you've got your line coming straight down for your parting. Uh you've got a line coming straight across and then this is going to meet right in the middle here. Build up your weight start kind of picking that up now you also have to look at density of hair. So if she's got fine hair you're going to approach when you start dropping these sections down differently than if she has thick hair, if she has thick hair, you don't want to start dropping down too early, because the buildup of weight is going to happen really quick. So that's what we need to determine as well. The mannequin i have today has a medium to high density. Typically, i'm working with a lower density today, a little bit thicker hair, so um i'll kind of talk about that. As i work through it, then so we section those in in half, then we work the parietal ridge across so that is kind of that ridge. That happens right here from the top to bottom, so we separate front and back top and bottom, then uh, that's pretty much the sectioning, so you end up with a square shape on top. Let'S go over here. You end up with this uh square shape on top. Here uh, when we separate the fringe - and then you separate this is the front and back so now we're going to be working across here, bringing everything traveling guide, working across the top of the head to create kind of a squared off top. So, that's basically it so to start this cut. We look up here. This is how we're going to start and we're going to start right behind the right ear and we're going to work, diagonal back partings and just cutting with the head shape through uh and not in just bringing it to the previous traveling guide. We want to work layering all the way up and then again decide based on the density where we want to start building that weight everything's going to come out from the head shape, not out here out from the head shape. That'S just showing you that you're bringing it out and then we're going to work our way up. So hopefully that makes sense. Let me see here so now. When you look at the the doll head, you can see how we've mapped out this section. So now it goes from the two-dimensional. So now you can see it in three dimensions: we've got our square shape on the top. We'Ve got our front and back separated here down to the hairline, we're creating a triangular shape in the back, because this is where these two sections start to crisscross. When we cut our round shape - and this is where i'm assuming i'll start to drop my section and then again in the side, we've got that squared away as well all right any questions. You have just type q and then put in your question: how does uh? How do i cross check myself better? I'M a recent graduate so alex great question and here's the thing guys some people get frustrated. I answer a lot of questions in this. There'S no reason for me not to because this is um all about. Let me go here. This is about me teaching a class for you guys so to be able to answer your questions is kind of the benefit of this. I'M also recording this entire class and i'll cut it up into a 10 to 12 minute youtube tutorial on just the haircut um. So if you like those better you're, welcome to watch those later it'll come out in a week or two, but for now i love answering the questions being interactive. I will pause. I will answer questions. It'S not the. It doesn't like boost the numbers on the internet, but that's not what i'm about today today, i'm about trying to answer all of you guys as much as i can so alex. Let'S pull this up again. How do i cross-check myself better? I'M a recent graduate and i worry about the consistency of my cut without my instructors rechecking it now. It'S all me. What steps do you take with cross-checking? Any cut such a good question and the easiest way to remember how to cross check is to do it. The opposite, exact, opposite way that you cut the hair. So here are a few cross checking tips so right here and let's see so right here. If i cut this, which i'm going to working diagonal back partings all the way up the head, then how would i cross check it? If i'm working diagonal back, then i would cross check it diagonal forward. If i cut this entire back of the head vertically, then all the way across, then how would i check it? I would check it horizontally. That'S the that's the biggest thing. Now! That'S only thinking about this plane, though. So when i talk about cutting hair, i think about it in the crosshairs right, so you've got your horizontal line and you've got your vertical line. Your horizontal line is working, pushing weight back and forth horizontally. Your vertical line is pushing weight up and down so or or leaving weight or taking away weight. However, you want to say it so when you look at cross-checking you not only like i'm not going to take this diagonal back, let's say, cut it and then to go diagonal forward. I need to make sure that not only am i checking it with the horizontal section in mind, let's do this vertical it'll be easier to explain, so i bring it here. I take this section vertically right and i cut it and i work my way all the way across the head now to check it. I'M going to go horizontal right when i go horizontal. If i bring it down here to check it, that's not where i held it to cut it. I held it up here because i held this section like this right, so this top part of the section was out here. So the key to a successful cross check is to make sure that not only are you taking this horizontal because you cut vertical but you're holding it at the elevation at which you cut it. So i hope that that makes sense uh. That should make sense, but that's kind of what it's all about all right. Let'S get into this cut, so i'm going to start in the back, because i really i know what i want to do. The front that front length is going to be easy to to do. I want to determine exactly what i want this back portion to look like and i'm going to keep even saturation on the hair at all times all right. So i comb the hair back and we're going to start by working a slight diagonal back line and i'll pull it forward. So you can see so just like that. Let me turn it. You can see right there. Now i'm gon na hold this out from the head just like this, and i'm going to cut straight down this line, keeping everything straight out from the head. The line that i want to create is straight up parallel to the wall, which is going to pull a little bit extra length right here in the bottom because it starts to go in. But i want to create a nice straight line through all right. Trying to see where you guys can be able to see the best. I think if i go over here - okay, yep, that's it all right! So i bring the hair out now, instead of just combing the hair. Down into my hand like this. If i comb the hair down, what am i doing, i'm pushing it lower if i push it lower, it already is going to have more length than i wanted and it's going to be heavier than i want it. So what i'll do is i'll comb, the hair from both sides, but my last comb is going to be scooping underneath and pulling it up over top of itself. So right here, i'm going to come through and i'm going to cut. So i take another comb straight out from the head and i cut and i'm going to work my way all the way down this section, bringing everything straight out and cutting this line now. Remember, i'm not going to tuck into the head now, i'm still bringing everything straight out. So what's going to happen, is i'm going to end up with a little extra length here at the bottom? That'S, okay! I'M going to play around with that at the in the dry cut. So that's our first line now, i'm going to take another here come that out of the way bring it back and now i'm going to scoop my guideline, because i still want to make sure that this hair is above the section there we go. So i'm going to continue working now the head is starting to move away on this section as well. So, what's going to happen, this is going to be a little bit longer you're, going to have a little bit more weight build up right here, but this is all in the crown and you want that weight build up. So you don't have to worry about that. Don'T round that section up unless you know why you're doing it, so you can see kind of a seamless layer effect throughout. So i'm staying consistent with the width of all my partings, my sections working through i'll comb down but again combing down can't be my last lift this up a bit. So i comb down, but then my last comb is up to make sure that i'm right above my section, what do you recommend cutting layer or straight for curly, thin hair? So still that's a that's a tough question, um. What i would love for you guys to do is so i don't know if i fully understand the question, but one thing i want to say is that my goal with this is to kind of answer. Questions like i want to make sure that you're you're learning more than trying to get one specific thing, because i can't answer a specific question because i don't see the hair in front of me. So it has to be a little more detailed of the the exact situation and i want to make sure that i'm answering you know, questions that are going to help somebody with their job and not necessarily just trying to figure out like an individual hair issue, because We want to we're we're here. We want to better everybody, so, let's uh, so if you can be any of you guys if you could be really specific with the situation, if you're going to talk about one specific hair type uh and then maybe i can get a better answer for you just Because i want to make sure i i know exactly what you're talking about all right still straight out of the head, go. Remember i'm combing into the section, but then i start working the section up on top of where it lives see that guide. Now, if you guys remember on the head sheet that i showed you at the beginning, how these sections start to crisscross each other, so you can see on this triangle we're working diagonal back partings we're going to work through. Then we get to the tip of this. We'Ve now crossed over into the other side. So then, then, i will switch and work diagonal back this way and it'll crisscross into this side. So that's kind of what you want to see and that helps for the cross-checking question earlier kind of allows you to cross check the back while cutting the haircut so alex i'm using a ys park. 339 comb um. This is the mizutani special edition orange comb. So i'm going to start dropping my elevation a little bit so, instead of bringing it up above just one below what that'll do is start building just a little extra weight here in the crown which i want. I can also see that guide through really well, but then, once i start dropping down i'll no longer be over or over directing it down i'll go back into uh right over top of the parting, so we'll shift and then go in because i want the weight Build up here, i don't want weight, build up in the middle uh, so it's a 339 comb ys park. I like this comb because it's small it's easy to work with in tight spots and this edition of the comb you can get on our website shop fse. I think it's sold out right now, but uh it'll be back in stock real soon. But it's a really. You know it's a nice comb. It'S one of my favorites here we go still working scooping the hair through the biggest thing is to not get greedy with any of your sections, because the more hair you take the more over direction you create and then the more weight you're going to end up With in places, you didn't want so here top section again, just dropping it to that previous there and then, as i go down the curve of the head, i get back over top of my parting there we go all right so now we're going to start criss-crossing Into the opposite side, so my diagonal forward line continues still cutting parallel to the wall. Turn this still over top of the party. Now i'm going to go one more section through i'm going to clip this up and away just to make sure i get a nice clean feel because this hair wants to fall down comb that up there we go so i'll, hold it nice and tight slide. The clip up in and it holds it away now - i come out with the hair - make sure you're over top of your section, because this you'll have a tendency to want to over direct back, because naturally you just want to pull back to yourself. So just be aware of that, a lot of hair cutting has most to do with just being aware of the two things that are going on: the elevation vertically and the over direction horizontally. Where you're pulling the section all right. So that's the first side and because we're traveling through this is the hardest part of hair cutting moving. Once we get into the side and we're over directing back and pushing a little bit of length to the front, it becomes a lot easier because you don't have to think as much you just pull back. So this is probably, i guess you could say the most difficult part of the cut all right now we're going to work back, which won't take too long, melissa, you're, welcome, patty, says i'm blocking the camera. With my shoulder paddy, aren't you the one that told me? I was blocking it yesterday too you're like the shoulder police. I appreciate it uh, that's great all right. It'S probably the exact same place. I blocked it yesterday too, in the class. So didn't learn my lesson all right here we go so we're going to work diagonal back same way following the hairline and then sliding my clip up underneath so tanya you'll see now body position is a little bit different. So let me switch to my uh other camera here, see if i can show you guys body position a little bit so here when we look at body positioning on the on this side. I was here working like this right now. My body position is going to shift so now i'm going to shift this way as i work down this side and i'm going to work with my elbow up in the air. If that makes sense - and through so i'll, be like this working all the way through it, and just this is where it becomes a little bit more difficult for me, because my elbow wants to drop down. So you just got to be careful on that aspect of it all right. Oh a different patty, then sorry, patty, it's just a popular uh, patty thing to say then um. You mostly use your thumb to clip the hair notice when you cut down with your shears that you use your thumb to clip there. I like to cut it. Is that important so um? Yes, so just moving! Your thumb, i think, is what we're talking about here. Um, so when i go to cut a line in the hair, i hold the hair here, i'm going to scoop underneath make sure we're above the section when i come in here. I'Ve got my steady blade, which you can see will move across. My fingers like this, and then i have my thumb, blade that will go through and cut that's just to allow me to have more of a precise feel to it, so it takes little by little out of the section. So i go in and cut like that. If i go in and i try to chomp at it, you can still get a line, but it's just not going to work as clean. So i recommend that when you're not doing anything when you have down time to work on just moving that one one blade so we'll go through and we'll cut, remember we're working parallel as much parallel to the wall as we can do not come into the section. So i'm over directing it over top of itself, but that doesn't mean that i'm now going to cut and tilt my finger in you can, if you're, trying to round off we're creating a straight line and i'm letting the head shape, dictate the weight. I want the head shape not so much to put weight down here. That'S fine, but i want the head shape to work through the top see. If you can see, i want the head shape. As i cut my line up and the head shape starts to move away, that means that this hair gets longer and longer and longer, as i work up just by cutting a line. So then i'm allowing the head to naturally build up the weight around it. Based on its own shape, if that makes sense, i say if that makes sense a lot, and you guys don't ever answer me, but i say it ah crap forgot the cue. Are you actually resting the steady blade on your finger? Yes megan? I am so i'll. Show you again so i'll work here there you go. Apparently, if you write the word crap before your question, i see that one too, that works just as good all right clip up now. I'M gon na scoop because i've only gone one section: i'm gon na go underneath. I love it. You'Re answering me now, love it guys cool um. So here we go scoop underneath pull that section toward over top of where it lives set it up. A lot now watch the steady blade. Let me zoom and get real close here. Comb up you'll see the guide diffuse a little bit because you're moving the guide from where it lives. So i go a little bit past that and now the blade rests on my finger and i work up here work up. Hopefully, that was a good visual all right and at the bottom of this section, we're actually running into now, where we cut oh gosh, swallowed a frog or something where we've crossed over into this corner. So we already cut this much of this hair. So as i go through, i'm just connecting it to this point, you can go through and cross check it on your way through, but you've already cut it. Here we go on the hair up nice and tight and away clip it awesome andrea. I love it. You can actually see it forming around the head. Yes, awesome, i'm glad that you're, seeing that that is so. These are the new thoughts in my mind. So, as i get um just more, i process more about hair cutting in the way that it works to be the most flattering. I think about a lot of these things and i think about just letting the head shape kind of do it. For me, with a little bit of help so like if i needed to, if it was super thick hair, then i would take my line from being like this back out. Actually, this might be kind of cool. Let'S do it up here. Let'S try something! So it's a good all right, we'll do the back of the head one so instead of like this is to kind of showcase that line right. Let me take this line away and let's say she had really thick hair. Well, then, what i so right now our line kind of works like this and we're going straight up almost parallel to the wall, so that's kind of what we were saying so everything's being brought out towards the the head or out from the head. But at this line, so no matter what all this hair is coming to this line being cut right. So what happens? Is the head shape right here in the corner starts to go in from the occipital bone down? It goes in a little bit. So if we're cutting a straight line, this hair is getting longer, then it gets shorter because the head starts to come out. Then, as we get up here and we start to round the crown area, this hair starts to get longer and longer so by cutting one line, we're actually creating length where the head starts to move um. Now, if this is, if let's say she has the hair she has now, this is the line that we cut kind of like medium density. Now, if she had high density, then this line would be more parallel, so it would be from here - and it would go up more like this, because then the weight would start a little bit later in the head and it wouldn't build up so much now. If she has finer hair, you might want to start stacking it just a little bit earlier. So maybe your line changes there, so it really is based it's. This is a whole line that i think about, but i'm i'm only thinking about that line. Um. It just makes it easy. So when you go to cut you just have to follow one line, it's a virtual line in the air. You just follow that line you're, not thinking about the head, once you've determined what you want. That line to be so, let's go back into it. There we go donna. Thank you so much nano nano. Thank you! So much love your name. I told everyone. Pixie is very short, undercut and use the length of my finger. Well, so so here's the thing with a pixie cut, i'm calling this a pixie two. I just think i just call it short hair, a pixie and honestly it's just to get you guys to watch on the internet. I don't really know what a pixie an official pixie is. Everybody has a different opinion. If you, google, pixie you're, going to get a million different things, so i think google's always right and google's confused. So i don't know because our clients are going to google pixi and they're going to see this haircut they're going to see. You know probably a lot of them that i've done on the internet, which are weird ones with with longer tops shorter, bottoms, you're, going to see celebrities wearing different uh style pixies. So i think traditionally it was a very short haircut now it's kind of altered into a lot of different things, but your client could say pixie and they don't mean super short. They might mean just a nice short haircut, so you got to be careful on that. I wish we had these videos when we was when we were in beauty school. So do i that's that's why this all started all right, so i'm going to scoop up the hair again working this line. That'S not over top elevate, a little bit more. I'M gon na lower the head. The beauty of uh of cutting hair is to remember that you can move the head up and down that's a fun fact. Chair goes up and down tripods, and then you don't over stretch yourself, because the more you start stretching to do something the more inconsistent you're going to be so take a second readjust and then go back into it right. Almost there guys hope, you're enjoying it. If you are, let's see, let's see your favorite emoji in the uh chat room here? How long should a pit via pixie at the back tops insides christos? This is uh. That'S kind of the questions that i'm talking about. There'S no one answer for that. Pixi can be a lot of things um in my opinion, pixie is short: hair uh, it's a form of pixie, so we'll call this a textured pixie, because we're going to cut a ton of texture into it um, you know if we didn't cut a ton of Texture into it, we had a more of a disconnection on top too, like we call it disconnected pixie like there's all different ways to go about talking and describing a haircut elbow cough. That'S a funny emoji. Is that an emoji? That'S best. That'S got to be a covet emoji. What about sneezing in a mask that should be an emoji just to describe what you just did: that's the worst, it's probably a gif or a gif shepard thanks so much justin cowboy hat. I like that one all right! So now i'm going to start dropping this elevation a little bit still cutting the same line just starting to drop, so you can see i'm not over top of that focus is going so i'm not over top of this section like this would be over top. I'M just down slightly comb the hair in scoop it now i'm over top there. So now i comb down, bring it to where it was previously cut and then here scooping bringing it up above the section - and this is like when you take a look at it. This is how you start to see the head shape, starting to make things happen so, and you can see how the weight gets a little bit heavier right here and then goes away and starts to become more seamless in the back. So it's a heavy weight line and then goes into layering just utilizing the head. A lot of us would try to take this hair, pull it into it, because we're uh our next client's here we're in a rush take your time. That would be too much over direction so, instead of taking every section bringing it to the previous you're, bringing that one past two sections so now you just get that extra bit of weight and it's just not what you did in the cut. So it's not consistent. Scoop up just connect these two points over top of the section and then the last bit is going to be here working that line that we talked about in the head sheet. So just so you guys don't think i'm a liar! Let'S look at this right. What did we talk about? We talked about the head shape, doing the work we talked about creating this line right, so here we cut a line that goes just with the head kind of like this straight up and down now, as you bring that straight up and down. So it's more like here straight up and down as we do that this hair - that's right here in the middle of this comb, is the shortest hair. The hair that's down here in the nape, is longer because it's stretching and the head is curving in. So you get longer hair down here now, as you work up the head here, the head shape starts to curve away. So then you start to get longer hair towards the top plus we played into it a little bit and dropped just to the previous. Instead of bringing it up over top of the section, so that gave us a little more weight so now you can see the shape that we're starting to create this thing's driving me nuts, oh lord, there we go so you can see the shape that we're starting To create right here throughout the back just realizing, i forgot to turn a light on, but i'm not going to do that now i'll screw everything up the back light. Okay, so we've got the back done, except for that triangle, which i'm going to work into that. I'M actually having thoughts about it. I don't know if i want to build up more weight. Yes, you know what i'm going to do, i'm going to work horizontally across that um. So when i look here, i've got a round line. This round line comes from the two sides where they start to connect, but this is a round shape because we followed the round of the head. We didn't leave any corners in this uh. Hopefully right could have, but not on purpose, so we work the round now. I take out this triangle and i'm going to start and i'm just going to build up a nice little graduation here. So i'm going to go right here to the round comb, this down comb the rest of this up cut that later, because i want to remove some weight from that top, so this is going to travel as well her head forward. This makes me more comfortable, which makes me more consistent. Does weight equal length sort of uh really it does, but hair can also be different. Weight as well like a hair strand can be a little thicker than a different one, so i would say: length equals weight. Uh in a way, but then there's other factors, so here we go comb this hair down and now i'm going to comb. I need more than that. So here we go vertical line in the back. Here we go i'm going to comb this out. I can see the weight line that we've started and i'm just going to cut continuing that line that we uh we've been working on i'll, take another vertical parting and i'm just working my way across the back traveling the guide so i'll pull the guide over top Of the section i can see it through, i'm going to cut straight up just like that following that line, so i scoop up the new hair and then comb the guide towards me cut to infinity. You couldn't see any of that all right same thing vertical now. I'M pushing so there we go so now: we've created a horizontal line across the back very square, almost as we worked, and now i'm going to continue up into this top section connecting it all all right. Let me go to the top. What scissors are you using? It'S a great question um. So these are. This is my scissor made by mizutani um. I did a partnership with them. We sell it on our website. I think they might be sold out, but here we go so you can see uh. It'S got my logo on it. I designed the the handle, so i like the short tang, which was kind of the number one thing i wanted in it. I also wanted a pointy tip on the scissor. This is a five inch scissor. I, like it a lot shorter, it's got a flat screw flat black screw and then right here it's got a nice groove for your thumb. So when you're working in and cutting some of you guys were commenting that i don't put my entire thumb in the scissor. I use that groove to then uh cut, so it just makes things easier because, as soon as you put your thumb into the scissor uh, you have to move your wrist a lot. So i always cut with my thumb about half in the scissor as i work. So you can get all of that stuff everything that i'm using in these videos. You can pick up on our online store, which is shop, fse, free salon, education, shop, fse, all right. So now i'm going to continue the same thing so vertical section down what this is going to do is i'm cutting a line into the back here and when i do that, it's going to push a little bit of weight to the front. Awesome katie sounds good. All right so we're going to come here, i'm going to work that line up over top of where it lives. Looking for the guide there, it is and letting the head shape still do its thing here. So still, building that line the weight is getting longer. The hair is getting longer and longer as we work through it, i'm going to make a different decision here, because i want the top. I want this top square to be shorter. I don't want so much length here, so i'm actually going to go in and just take do a little more elevating through this top crown area. So like this scoop it up i'm going to work across the top of my fingers, so straight up in the air and uh the person that was commenting about men's hair. This top portion will actually be a pretty good uh thing to pay attention to because we're gon na work through we're gon na build some texture. All of these techniques work well when cutting men's hair cut that in half and i'm just taking really small sections, because the larger your section is the uh the more over direction and if you're, trying to get a nice, precise, top or precise line in the haircut. You can't over direct it too much bring this there. We go, i'm going to go to the side view. Just so you guys can see my elevation so here bringing it up. Oh jeez, oh thanks! Carly, this straight up, i'm cutting past. My second knuckle, but i have control of that section. I don't feel like i'm losing tension, so i'm okay with it. There are certain cases where i would not want to, but it's okay in that that moment. Okay, so you can see how this hair starts to get shorter up towards the front. This is actually going to kind of work. Its way towards the front. We'Ve still got our build up of weight in the back, which creates this kind of rounded shape, and then we get a little bit smaller and then we get a little bit bigger around the nape area, so starting to be a fun haircut. Now i'm going to work into the sides, the sides are easy: they're, quick, because we're going to over direct into this kind of side section. So remember that line that we created that we talked about that's going to be our guideline for this side. So right here and then what we cut on the sides here will turn into a little bit of a guideline on the top as well comb. This out actually turn her. You guys will be able to see better so just here, so i comb vertical section here now: i'm not going to bring everything all the way back to the back. You could, if you wanted, to push even more length to the front, so don't feel like you can't for this cut. I want to go just back to the previous each time to get a little extra length and that's all we're working for so here i'm going to go back to this previous section. So, instead of pulling the guide over top of the section, i want to grow a little bit of extra length, so i'm going to pull the section back to the guide so right here take this section. I come back to the guidelines so notice that i'm scooping the hair because that's where i want to pull it to so, just like that and i come in and i cut still working that line right here up and down so now pull the guide. Of course. There'S a little so pull the guide away. Now this new section is going to come back to that guide, so think about it. The first section we pull back to the guide, then that guide gets released to that new section gets released. It'S a little bit longer than this guideline, and now we pull this new section back to this guide, and now this new section is a little bit longer than this guy, and it just continues through to where we get a subtly longer line towards the front of The head here comb this hair into the guide there we go so just continue that same motion through still working vertical. Oh look at that shoulder. Where'S patty was probably yelling at me in the chat, but i couldn't see the chat there. We go so look at that line. You can see that interior weight starting to move forward now because of the over direction exciting stuff. I know you guys are excited, i'm excited about it. My favorite part of haircuts is a transformation agreed short haircut today. Yes, yes, we are all right so again, over directing back over top of the guide, get my shoulder out of the way now you'll know if you're working over top of the guy. We talk about this in our virtual cutting club. You know when your guide is where it should be, because it becomes more of a subtle, a more of a harsh line, a stronger line um if your guide is being pulled. So let's say this: is our guide here watch this. So if i pull this guide away, zoom extreme close-up. So if i pull this guide away from where it lives, look at the line and how soft it is. If i take that same line - and i move it to where i actually cut it - where the guide should be start to see right, there see how solid the line starts to get it's a much thicker feeling than when you look at it here, which is really Soft and broken so if you want to know where you're trying to over direct that hair too and your goal is to cut it above, the guideline then go to where that line is solid. And then you will know that you're cutting the hair exactly where it should be. Okay. So now, when you take a look at what we did, you can see just by subtly pulling back to the previous. You get this extra bit of weight throughout the sides. All right same thing getting into crunch time here you guys been with me for a while. I know we got a client in 28 minutes. We can do this all right. So here we go same thing. We'Re gon na. Do this salon speed here, it's just slightly back over the guide, this one slightly back over the new guide. Last but not least, all right! So now we are going to work this top then we'll blow it dry, we're going to add some texture to it and you'll have your finished result. So this top part of the section, this shorter hair that we cut that's going to be the guide for the top. Let'S take a look, so i'm going to go straight down the center. Well, not a little bit off center, but my my section is going to be straight down center, so here and then this will make it straight down center. So i'll part it off it's a little thick all right. So what i'm going to do is i'm going to elevate this straight up in the air. My guide is right back here in the back and i'm going to work my line straight across the head. I'M going to work this straight until i get to where the fringe or the front of the head starts to curve down. Then i'm just going to re-comb boy re-comb and remove this weight and draw another line. I'Ll show you guys that from a side view in one second, let me take this next parting here, go here and then side view all right, so now we're traveling across the top. So what do we do when we travel i'm going to move the guide to the over to the new section, so the guides from the middle? So i comb the hair up, push the guide over top of the new section and that's where i start to cut. I'M working my way over, and this is where i was talking about, so i go straight across until we get to that fringe, and then i dip and change my angle to shift down towards the forehead another small section. This is a fun little trick. Wise man once taught me just get rid of some of that excess. So then you're not holding so much hair in your hand, so i want to make sure i'm over top, and that section is coming straight out from the head. A little bit more, you shift how's my knee in case anyone's wondering what that explosion was just my knee. So as i'm starting around the corner here, i want to stick with my guide, not trying to connect it to the opposite side, i'm again letting the head shape kind of dictate, but also i took my section to the parietal ridge, so there shouldn't be much curvature Happening or weight build up, there is a little bit, but shouldn't be much because of where our sectioning was now. If we section too low you're going to see quite a bit of extra buildup, so you just got to be careful tiniest bit. That'S that so one more side, and then we get on to the texturizing part. This will be the same thing. Body position stays the same. All i'm going to be doing different is now um pushing uh the hair. Well, no pulling it sorry pulling the hair because the guide is now coming this way towards my body, so grab a new section. I cut this, i'm now pulling all right see. I do have knee explosions. Awesome, that's hilarious, so not to get too repetitive, but the the key thing on this top portion, and it's really the stuff that, for me, is kind of fun to uh to work through, because it just makes your mind need to stay so like focused um is Bringing it straight over top of where you're pulling like, where you're pulling the section from it's, got to go above right over top of that, but also your body kind of wants you to follow the head shape too, but not following the head. Shape is kind of what we're doing so just trying to keep as consistent as possible. While you work that head shape, because i think you'll you'll see the difference in the outcome. When you see how consistent we stay throughout it, shape's cool you can see, it's got kind of a shaggy, look to it that roundness in the back builds up a really nice look and then having it go. A little bit longer into the front creates some pretty cool movement as well. Okay last, this is my last one you're still with me, host post, something i was like uh post, but i don't know post something host, i'm here, i'm with you, i'm with you here to the end, all right so now take a look here. Where are we at cool cool cool, so i'm gon na go through and now from earlier a little cross-checking question. I'M just gon na go through and dust the top shouldn't be much it's not, but you just got to make sure you bring it straight out from where it lives, no matter how you're holding it there cool fun cut so far, almost there. So now we're going to blow it dry, get it nice and smooth and then give it some texture, some style and we'll be good to go so two products - uh neuro prime, so i'm gon na use a little bit of that here, a couple pumps and then We'Re gon na do neural, lift right here so add a little bit of volume, plump it up a little bit, use the primer heat protectant and also to uh. Just give me a tiny, tiny bit of hold in there um for the style, so we'll work that product into the hair, especially on short hair. I don't want something that has too much hold, especially right away. I want to create a nice soft style, but you got ta have something because you don't want to just blow dry straight hair and damage it. Anything like that. So a little bit of hold then work the product through i'll brush it in and now we're going to smooth the hair out so i'll flat wrap around the head i'll go one way really. I just want the hair to fall on the head shape. The way that it naturally wants to all right good to see all of you with me till the end, which is gon na, be soon because i have a client in nine minutes. Hopefully i'll finish. So i want to work the air flow over the hair, but i'm not trying to like shake up the hair too much. I want the head shape to to create the haircut shape. I think somebody just asked if this haircut would be good curly. It would be great, a great curly haircut got a nice round feel to it, but it's heavy in the corners, so it'll pop some of that curl out so yeah i would like, if not so, i'm working the top back and forth so so look. This is what's cool, i love this, so you can see that kind of triangular shape or that forward push of the weight that we did on the side, but then also this heaviness that falls over. It is from that top being pulled straight up. It slightly disconnects it, so you can see how that kind of those pieces come over. That'S what really makes the shape of this cut, so so so so so!