My Eco Styler Gel Contains Triethanolamine, A Possible Carcinogen- Should I Be Worried?

Triethanolamine, or TEA, is an ingredient commonly found in many ethnic hair care products such as hair gels, serums, creams, and leave-in conditioners.

It is mostly found in hair gels and creams because its thick and sticky consistency strengthens the hold of the product as well as thickens an otherwise watery substance. Using triethanolamine as an ingredient can help neutralize the pH in a cosmetic formula that is too acidic and helps liquid and oil ingredients blend together-making it a popular choice by chemists.

Triethanolamine has somewhat of a bad rap because it has been speculated that it can cause the formation of nitrosamines, or carcinogenic compounds. It is also said to be extremely toxic in concentration and that cosmetic grade triethanolamine should not exceed 5%.

However, the facts about TEA are often misunderstood and many do not read about the compound in depth- causing confusion and fear of buying products with TEA as an ingredient.

Though there are many interesting (and even scary!) facts about TEA, there are a few things you should know before you consider using or abandoning the products forever. Below are a few misconceptions and facts about TEA that may change your mind.

Recognizing and safely using TEA

Triethanolamine (Tris(2-hydroxyethyl)amine) is a chemical compound that is both an amine and triol, meaning it is a molecule with two alcohol groups. It is a viscid, colorless, ammonia-smelling liquid that is water soluble. Created by the reaction of ammonia and ethylene oxide, TEA has a considerable amount of alcohol-causing concern for those who worry about products drying out their hair.

Personally, I have no problem with a small amount of alcohol in my hair products because I find that the drying and flaking problem can be solved by mixing a light oil into my hair gel or cream. However, if you are prone to frizz and hair thinning, I would stay away from products that have TEA as an ingredient if it is not mixed with oils* or natural additives.

The FDA has stated that triethanolamine is safe for cosmetic use; however, it should not be used for a long period of time and needs to be rinsed off your skin and out of your hair daily. It also should not be used in concentrations above 5%, but this should not be a concern because almost all of cosmetic grade TEA is below 5%.

Because triethanolamine is a skin irritant, you need to thoroughly rinse any products containing it from your face and scalp within 24 hours of using it.

Is triethanolamine a carcinogen?

It is believed that TEA should not be used with nitrosating agents to avoid the formation of nitrosamines-cancer-causing compounds. However, a study by Regulatory Toxicology and Pharmacology found that only 0.68% of TEA formed into nitrosodiethanolamine when mixed with sodium nitrite.

In other words, there is an extremely small chance that Triethanolamine could cause cancer by itself or be turned into a carcinogen. For further reassurance, the American Cancer Society does not recognize TEA as a known-or probable-carcinogen.

The idea that even the smallest amount of nitrosodiethanolamine was formed can be a little off-putting, but this only occurs when it is heated or consumed (and even then it is still heated by body heat).

What is triethanolamine used for in hair care products?

• It is used as a pH adjustment in hair creams, lotions, and other products
• It serves as an emulsifier and surfactant (solubilizes oils* and other ingredients that are not completely soluble in water)
• It neutralizes fatty acids
• It helps wet products dry faster (because of the ethanol)
• It is a very effective gelling agent because of its consistency
• It is also used to thicken formulas

Note: Popular products like EcoStyler Styling Gel and Fruit of the Earth Aloe Vera Gel* have triethanolamine as an ingredient.

Should I buy products with TEA or not?

Simply put, the most that triethanolamine will do is make your hair dry and brittle because of the alcohol in the compound. However, you should note that mixing oils* and non-alcohol creams into your products that have TEA as a listed ingredient can prevent drying of the hair.

There aren’t any major health problems caused by TEA, but it is a skin and eye irritant so you must rinse it off your face immediately and avoid leaving it on your hair for too long.

Do not worry about triethanolamine being a carcinogen because it is very low risk. However, keep in mind that you should avoid products that mix TEA with nitrosating agents- this is purely a preventive measure.

In the end, your choice to use products with TEA as a part of their formula is up to you. Personally, I would not worry about it but if you feel that you need to avoid this ingredient, be sure to check future buys-as well as your frequently used products- for triethanolamine so you can avoid them in the future.