Back To Basics - Simple Steps To The Perfect Wash Day Routine
When you first return to natural hair you will soon realize that pretty much you’re starting all over with your hair care. You will now have to take the time to research natural hair care and become familiar with yours. One topic you will consistently come across is having a hair routine.
A hair routine is the steps you do in order to keep your hair happy and healthy. It includes wash day, moisturizing, detangling, trimming, and styling.
If you are confused about what a typical hair routine looks like here is an example of one:
Pre-pooing
Shampooing
Conditioner (co-wash optional)
Deep conditioning*
Moisturizing (L.O.C)
These are steps every natural needs in order to have healthy natural hair. Missing one step might hinder one’s journey.
I know some are wondering where is the detangling step? Everyone does this in so many different ways it something that is inevitable.
By default, you’re going to detangle whether it’s with tools or fingers. It’s not a step that anyone misses. However, the 5 steps mentioned above are steps that sometimes can get missed or neglected especially for new naturals.
As you can see #2 and #3 on my list can be interchangeable. If you are going to co-wash you don’t have to shampoo and vice versa.
However, you can go without co-washing natural hair, you can’t go without shampooing your hair. Shampooing cleans your scalp and in order to have a healthy scalp, you need to shampoo.
Co-washing with conditioner does not contain the detergents that truly cleanses the scalp unless you are using a cleansing conditioner that is designed to cleanse your scalp and hair. Regular shampooing followed by a conditioner or deep conditioner* will give your natural hair more moisture and shine.
After sectioning your hair:
Pre poo
The act of applying a penetrating oil (not a conditioner, but oil) prior to shampooing. Helps to control the expanding and contracting (hygral fatigue) of the cuticle.
A great pre-poo helps to add shine, elasticity, slip and reduces tangles. It’s a step I never miss and I encourage you not to either.
I do this step whether I am shampooing or co-washing. Rinse your hair with warm water. Do not use hot water as is drying to the hair and scalp as it is to the skin.
Put a small amount of the cleanser of your choice in the palm of your hand. Distribute it well to your scalp in each section. You want to focus on the scalp when it comes to cleaning your natural hair.
That’s where majority of the buildup is found. Be sure not to use your nails to scratch your scalp, and wash your hair in a downward motion using praying hands. Especially for us kinkier texture naturals, it causes fewer tangles.
Now rinse. Make sure when rinsing each section you rinse thoroughly. Do not place conditioner over the shampoo and then rinse that is reversing when you just did.
You already pre-pooed so you can comfortably rinse the shampoo without your hair feeling stripped. Be sure to allow the shampoo to rinse downward and use your finger to work it through and out. Lift the hair a bit from the scalp if you have long and thick hair. Rinsing is a crucial step to remove all residue, particularly from shampoos that contain a motherload of synthetic chemicals.
Condition or deep condition
For us with kinkier textures or with dryness we definitely want to deep condition now. Do not apply commercial conditioners directly on your scalp unless they specifically instruct you to do so.
You’ll want to use these products on the hair where they’re needed. Depending on the length of your hair, work a small amount into your hands and apply from tips upward.
You want to coat your hair, not your scalp (unless instructed otherwise). Work it through your hair by stroking it downwards (praying hands method). After allowing it to sit the allotted time you use this step to detangle or do it under your shower while rinsing it out. Rinse thoroughly!
When done allow your hair to dry in the sections you already have set. Use a turbie or t-shirt and allow it to naturally dry.
When hair is damp (80% dry) and no longer dripping wet go ahead and moisturize via the L.O.C (liquid, oil, cream) method. You can do this step in whatever order your hair like. Most likely you will change the order of oil then cream vs cream then oil.
Since the liquid is already there (your damp hair from washing it), moisturizing allows your hair to sit for a little longer.
After you have “loc’ed” and your hair is still a bit damp (90% dry) you can style. Apply your styling product, using a little not a lot, and complete your style of choice.
Watch my live demonstration here:
If you are consistent with a good hair regimen you will see success on your hair journey. Treat natural hair as gently as possible, remember that hair is a fiber.
Just as you provide the kindest treatment to your finest clothes, so you should take this same tactic with your natural hair. Your hair routine doesn’t have to be a high-maintenance one, but it must be one that reap benefits your natural hair.
See the other articles in the back to basics series here >>
