Clipper Over Comb Technique | Haircut Tutorial For Beginner Stylists

I'M going to section right above that parietal ridge area, so this little curve of the head right here, that's the parietal ridge. So i comb that hair back and then i'm going to draw a line straight back, just like that nice horizontal line, then what i'm going to do is i'm going to comb this hair up and over right at that crown area and i'm going to draw another Horizontal line across mid crown now we've got a corner and i'm going to comb this hair now forward, because that's how i'm going to part it and when i stand in front of him, i can really see kind of with my thumb where i want that end. Point to be so, i can see this end point here. I hold that with my thumb and then when i want to balance it, i can hold my thumb right there and then, when i turn him around and i decide where i want to comb this hair forward to. I know at about what point i want to hit that'll get us close. It'S not like. It works perfectly every single time, but it gets you close so that when you comb this all up, you're not completely unbalanced. On the top of the head twist, the top up and i'll throw a couple clips in just to hold it in place. Next move is to work horizontally with our wide comb, i'm going to scoop up the hair and remove that bolt. You have to understand when you're cutting clipper over comb you're, basically creating small little graduated areas as you work up the head. What we're going to do is we're going to take this up kind of tight to the top of the head. Now i do want to blend in the back, so i don't want to go too tight. All the way around. I like a slight little gradual, build up right there, so we bring that hair back because i want to work quickly. I don't really care. If i get everything in this, especially when i'm trying to just get the bulk out of the hair, so i'll lift it up and i'll just start getting the hair shorter, as i work up horizontally now, this isn't the the final length guys. So what i like to do is just go through it quickly with a couple processes and start working my way down almost like chiseling. So then i get a little bit closer all right, so i'm going to work my way back, scooping out like this and then working diagonal back on the head shape as we move into the back of the head. Is this crown area? I do not want to shave this all the way up to this mid crown. You see that happen, then this starts to cascade over. It doesn't look right to me. It looks a little bit undone. So a little triangle. I point the tip of that triangle to the occipital bone, just like that diagonal back line and i'll twist it up. So now i go in with my clipper guards. I go in one and a half guard here and i'm gon na fully open that up to make it the longest point. So you can see when we adjust this back and forth, see how that makes it shorter, and this makes it longer. We want to go the longest guard and i'm just going to work in here right along the edges, so i'll just flip. My wrist out work around the ears get the side burns a little bit. Take the back length out so now. Obviously this i'm going to cut into it a little bit soften it up so now what i'm going to do is i'm going to take a diagonal back parting, just like this hold it in my hand like this and i'm going to take the tri-razor. I can see this length underneath and that's about what i want to match up with and i'll just glide right through and cut it. Nice and short diagonal back bring this over to that section. Over top of the previous slide and glide that through we've got that weight, it starts to go diagonal back now. We'Re going to do the same thing on the opposite side: we're right here and now i'm going to slide and glide the tri-razor through you can bring all that hair over and then go with your 25 texture just to remove a little bulk and hit it right. There it takes out 25 percent that lightens up the back if you've got somebody with thick hair. If somebody with thin hair, don't do this nice little buildup of weight in the back? What i'm going to do now is i'm going to take my sections just like this. Take a section bring it back, cut it right across here in the back comb. The hair over bring this hair over to me and i'm just going to take the 100 cutting side and just work my way across the top that'll start to build up the weight in the back, but it's nice and soft because we're doing it with a razor. Now, if you wanted to do a scissors, you could do that as well and i'll show you guys. Maybe the difference there. Just like this back to me and i'll point cut across the top that'll give you a similar result all right right here. You can see. It'S still got quite a bit of volume, quite a bit of length. Some people really like that. I have a couple clients that, like to keep it nice and long in the front like that. I'M gon na blow this dry and then give it a little bit of style and then we're gon na cut into it. With a little point. Cutting i'm gon na show you guys a couple tricks with the tri-razor and then you know we'll go from there. So a couple tips here i like to take the brush - add some uh tension and kind of hold this hair up, and what that'll do is allow me to hit it with the blow dryer just like this and allow that heat to make the hair stand. I haven't put any product in the hair yet and then once i get the style kind of looking in the direction i want it to be, then that's when i'll. You know kind of stop the blow dry, but you can see it's got tons of volume. Already. Nice little flow to it, but it does feel a little bit heavy in certain areas, which is what i like to see. So i can go in and kind of take care of that. So now, how do you take a shape that looks like this to have kind of more of a shape to it than just being like this? You got somebody with thicker, hair or curly hair. This is actually a really fun technique for that as well. I take the hair just like this horizontal section comb, the rest forward. Velcro clip just place. It holds everything out of the way. If you want to hold it even more, you just slide it in now. I can take this hair and go mid. Shaft 25 texture. So, just like this pop it in and i'll just remove a good amount of weight. You also do that with a texturizing scissor. I just really love the versatility and using a razor in my haircuts, so that pops through gives some texture into the haircut and also removing some of that weight again i'll. Do it one more time, because i don't want to do it too close to the front. I like to keep the front all sort of one length see how it starts to now. It'S like a little bit fuller and then just gets a little sleeker towards the back. What'S another thing that happens with this haircut, this front can kind of fall down so depending on which way they want to wear it, and you could always cut into it a little bit they're going to wear it off to this side. Sometimes i'll just come into this corner here and i'll, take this hair and i'll just soften it. I can use 25 texture, so i don't cut everything and just kind of soften through it, so that that starts to lay a little bit nicer and it doesn't flop down as much because we cut everything with a razor. It doesn't perfectly blend right here, so you could either do scissor over comb, which is what i'm gon na do or you could do clipper over comb even don't be afraid to go in a little bit of point cutting. So now we can finish it off. A little bit of barber's classic very light hold and i'll start in the back working the hair through and then slowly start working. My way to the front, because you want to get the bulk of that product off of your hands before you hit the front of the head, you