How To Color Natural Textured Hair

Doo-Doo-Doo hello to all the hair besties in the land, I'm here with Nikki, obviously, obviously, obviously curly black girl, magic, Hey yeah, so the day wouldn't give her. Some brown beige we're gon na use, the BB Brown beige series and our new lavender powder, Lightner called Magnum. Eight, are you ready to get started? Are you gon na burn me? No, let's do a little spin here take a look at her vataj, her back she's hot and we're ready to go. Let'S go. Go, go going, go! Okay! Let'S do it gon I'll be ready. I think something alright guys, I'm gon na be using Magnum a take a look at that powder. It smells great. I love it. My favorite mixture is 1 to 2 ratio and if I really wanted to spread quick I'll, do one two three now keep in mind guys when you mix more developer into your Lightner, it will weaken the power of lift, so one to one will always be more Stronger but I do like the 1 to 2 ratio because I am using foils, I'm gon na get that incubation. So it's gon na lift me up higher because of the heat conduction with the foils, so we're gon na have about 40 grams and I'm gon na use 20 around the face frame and I'm gon na bump it up to 30 volume in the back. The hair is a little bit more resistant and around the face, so that's why I prefer mixing it with 20 volume around the face or 10 volume. Okay. So now we're gon na go in powder Lightner, so I mix it with the whisk versus the brush because you want to break down the powder after I mix it thoroughly. I'M gon na go in with olaplex less this more with all the Plex in just like that. That'S gon na protect the hair. Take a look at that consistency right, let's get started, introducing our guys! Hang my Danny artis Nora, hi, guys who's a good friend of mine, she's gon na, be here today to help assist and be my partner in crime. Alright. So what I like to do is when I take a look at Nicky's hair here, you can see that she has a little bit of Rouge and she has a little bit of area where she had colored it brown in the past. So this looks like a level six, and this is her natural color. What you don't ever want to do is highlight these little shorter, curly or pieces, because you're gon na make it look like broken hairs and you're gon na emphasize these little short pieces. I do a diagonal parting parallel to a section, so curly hair has a different life of its own and there's something that you have to be very careful about when foiling, because you don't want to just do your usual pick up every little piece that you see. Instead of starting my weaving out here and trying to make like four stitch marks, I'd like to go right on the scalp, so it looks a little bit more natural right and I pull it out. Okay - and you take notice that I don't take these short pieces right, I'm only pulling the length. I don't like to fold the foil going in. I like to take the flap going out, because I can always go back and anchor right. So you'll see me a tug on this section, really nice and tight here, so I get close to the scalp as possible. Okay, so I'm going in with our Magnum eight, because this is finer hair around her hairline. It'S gon na really accelerate, really really fast, even with just a 20 volume so I'll stroke. The Magnum eight through and you'll see me leave some of the ends out lightly because we don't want to overlap those pieces. Okay, I usually do about three back-to-back sections and take a look. I am folding it very gently right. You will see that I don't do a crease here and I don't do a crease on top. You want to leave a light bubble and I always leave the foils out, because if I fold it in what's gon na happen is the swelling could go up and travel up versus traveling out. This will give expansion room for the lightener. Usually I do three back to back. Sometimes I'll do four to pick on them how much hair the model has. Okay, I usually don't go in horizontally because it will look more stripy and blocky, so go in diagonally once sure to I hug her face a lot better speaking about curly hair normally got to tell the world about this story of having natural curly hair. Well, I mean growing up as a kid. I got made fun of a lot for having you know: wild untamable hair as they called it, but I think, as I got older, I started to embrace the natural curls and learning what works for my hair, and I mean I used to even lay my head Down on an ironing board like for clothes to straighten my hair, that was like just when the Flatiron started coming out. Oh back, then they didn't have flat irons. Yet so you have to iron. It did I do age myself, maybe a little bit. It'S the truth, though they made fun of me. They called me Medusa mm-hmm, but honestly after I got, I grew up and started to embrace my curls, like I love wearing my hair curly, like it's part of its my density. It is my identity. I think the biggest challenge that I faced growing up was when I was young I caught lice Eli know what I know I got lice. I know what a kid had. Okay. Well, this is a good story. It is a good story, but I wouldn't hold still because I was too young and my mom chopped all my hair off and then it grew in, and I had this humongous like fro. So everyone would call me fro girl - and I was the only girl with like short curly hair, and I was so self-conscious about it. I have two older sisters right. I would lay my hair flat on a freaking iron and have them iron it out, so that I would have like straight like, even though I look like Harry Potter, at least they wouldn't like call me pro girl at school. So basically, you were kind of told that you're not pretty if you had it was just bigger had more volume, it was just. It was different. It made me feel self-conscious. I felt my own self and my own self esteem like went down because I was quote/unquote different and you know what everybody wants: curly, texture, more more more volume and more body now in that funny account it kinda just goes full circle right last year I went To Korea, I got perm in my hair because I wanted more texture because I felt like I was so basic and so straight and I was like everyone perm this back, I'm gon na bring perm back. Remember that and I'm determined, because I love curly hair, and I think that we shall all embrace the differences, because I do I like them all like straight wavy curly. But what I don't like. It'S like the stereotypes and the how we face the challenge is having textured hair so guys. I did four back-to-back foils a weave going parallel to the natural section of her hair. So now I'm going to the opposite side of Nikki's hair. So when I pull this section out, you can see where all the short pieces are remember avoid them. So we're gon na weave, right behind and you'll take notes. I'M not weaving right close to the face, you're still framing the face, but you're not getting that stripe. That'S coming right out from her face, because I don't want that harsh line right, highlighting and lightening your hair when this naturally curly brings out the texture, because if you have a lot of curls and then your hair is dark, sometimes it just looks like one dark Blob but when it's lighter it, the revolution of the curls, I think, show more and it reflects the light, and I think that's why I like my hair, lighter. So it's not like you're coloring, your hair, because you're not and you don't love yourself and not proud of your ethnicity, your coloring, your hair, because you want to enhance your look and you want to be part of fashion. You want to have a life, you know and I don't think we should be judged for that. I wear colored contacts all the time. Sometimes it's green blue. Sometimes it's you know Hello, Kitty contacts, you know, but it doesn't mean. I don't love myself. I do it for fun, you know, and I feel like that's very important so going here. You'Ll see me, do the same thing. The reason why I don't do slices versus weave is slicing. It makes it look like a stripe and it's such a harsh line, the weaving ensures that it's blended and I take really fine sections. I want the lightener to be able to penetrate all the way through to the other side of the hair that I'm taking. I mean keep in mind, sometimes the hair around the face, always they always lift lighter no matter what so this day say. Sometimes I do mix ten volume instead of 20, while my biggest fear was styling curly hair, because I didn't know how the style curly hair, but I start learning and I became so confident and curly hair. I became obsessed with it instead of running away from our fears. We should run to it and embrace it and and make that fear our biggest strength. You have to conquer it so that you can be good at it. I mean we're talking curly hair, I'm not asking you to jump in a tank of sharks right like if I'm asking you to jump in a tank of sharks, then then you'd be like okay, that's questionable! I don't know if I want to do that after I do all of the weaving right through here. You'Ll see me go in with a base color, so I am gon na base her with my journey shades. So this is my last piece right here: okay and then we're gon na go to the top of her head. I just got done foiling the face frame around Nikki's hairline. So take a look here. You get to see. I always go into a v-shape: go ahead and bend your head down. This is what I mean when I say: v-shape, okay versus doing a horizontal section. I feel that that gives it a tighter hug and if she toss it so laughs, if she toss it to the right, there's gon na be a pop first, it's just doing a horizontal where you're only gon na get the pop. If you're doing in the middle - and it looks a little bit blocky, so I'm gon na turn her this way, I'm gon na show you what I do. What I like to do is I skip about an inch okay, so this is about an inch thick section here. Okay, so the reason why I want to skip this section is because I want to make sure that I give dimension, because if I do everything back-to-back she's gon na not be a brunette anymore, she's gon na be completely blonde. So what I do is, I just take the whole block, so you get to skip the whole slicing step. Okay, so it goes by quicker, you're actually stitching right from her scalp, so you get to skip that whole step and that ensures that your weave looks thin natural and not so checkerboard II, so you'll see me stroke from the mids and then I'll work. My way up still going vertically the brush and I'm gon na repeat this until I meet the back part of her crown area and then that way, the highlighted pieces can veil over the dark here and create dimension as it separates you guys, I'm so excited we're. Launching seven and i6a a this is your favorite color right favorite. This is your color waiting for this one you've been waiting for a shade like this 6a is my favorite. I actually love using on me, so we're gon na use a full tube of seven and I which stands for natural ice. So this will replace your n-series because the ice and it gives it that cool reflection, so you're lifting covering gray and neutralizing. At the same time, or you can just lift and control with a natural look to it, because most natural hair usually doesn't have a super warm tone to it. So this is what's going to give it that realistic approach right, so we're gon na squeeze it out. The whole tube I'm gon na do half a tube of six, a a just to mute. It out. I feel a little mutinous at the root. I always just makes the color look that much more believable and I'm going to choose to do 20 volume. So when you take a look at Nikki's hair here, that's her natural hair, I'm gon na hit it with 20 volume on the scalp and I'm gon na blur it away through here and you. If you look at her mid stuff here, it's a slightly brassy. If you will, I just wanted to kind of transition and blend a little bit more and look a little bit more muted. Okay, so here we go 20 volume squirt are in. I feel it's very important to mix the dedicated developer with the color because it harmonizes and works synergistically together to ensure you get the proper lip and color deposition, often times when you're mixing it with a different developer, because there's maybe too much buffers in the developer. It can hinder the color deposit on the hair or accelerate it depending on the developer or brand you're using. I literally made a bunch of swatches using the same color and when I use different developers, it literally all came out different colors like like. I honestly didn't believe that developer made a big difference until I prove it to you, you did, and I prove it to you. I really thought they were. I couldn't believe it was all the same color but different developers like such a light bulb went off in my head, so you can't guarantee results if you using different about guys just do it just trust me. You know I'm kind of curious about I'm curious about the hair about her face. It'S only been about, I say: 15 minutes - hmm, oh, my goodness, girl! That'S only 20, only 20 minutes, 21 20 volume and 20 minutes no heat, no heat, just just her natural heat. Well, she's pretty hot: she is smokin hot y'all. Yes, you can't help it all right. Let me put my hand condoms on and let's get started. So this is 7 and I, with 6 a.m. so we're gon na dissect her and spread her apart. We'Re gon na place the base color right. Oh you like that yeah and we are gon na make sure we fully retouch that area. I tend to love going in vertically, because when I do a vertical retouch I get to move across the head faster. I feel I don't have to lift the hair up, so I get to just flap the hair over like this, and I get a larger section and not worry about like. Oh, I'm gon na move everything over okay see put your hands down, see that I fold it over. I don't even need a Norah's de novo for fun. You'Re gon na stand here, because you are important and I need you beside me for a lot of reasons, because you know what they call it. When you need your dog with you all the time, you're you're a therapy fret, I need companion, okay, you're, a therapy assistant. How about we all just need a friend to make us feel good yeah. We all need a friend and that's why you're here so I'm gon na put this throughout Nikki's whole head and we will be back Nora. I'M so excited look at that color. How do you feel I love it? It'S like the perfect balance of warm and cool 7 BB. It'S what we're gon na put throughout the sides here to blur away to stripe edge and we're gon na go in with a 9 BB, and I may have some of the tips out with nine BB with clear just so. It kind of gives a transitional effect. Okay, look a latte, yeah Nikki. This is how much oh girl. This is gon na look good on you, you guys a house like that under light. Oh excuse me guys got a little excited there. Let'S do two full tubes cuz. She has a lot of hair. Let me squeeze this one: okay, I'm gon na mix it one to two ratio. Now, y'all now's, my turn, you guys we have an option of mixing it, one to two or one to one ratio. I personally like one to two, because you get more shine in this acidic. Okay, so mix it one to two with six volume, all right, perfect, we're gon na whisk her up. This is a great time to also use olaplex too, because we are using an acidic demise, so right now rebound the hair simultaneously. So it's almost like treating her hair while we're glossing our hair, so you're. Getting that topcoat feel sealing the cuticle and reblogging the internal structure to the hair right. So you guys are seeing me apply the color to dry hair. I feel like it's important to glaze them dry because you get full color depositions, so it doesn't look Hollow and also you get more longevity out of it. Think about it. When the hair is wet, you are diluting it with water, so not gon na get the full color saturation there's water in there. So if dry hair is gon na suck up the pigment now, will her hair go darker? Yes, because you have these little highlights that we put in, but I feel that when we glaze that we blurred them in together, each level of color her base and her highlight will take the color in differently and I think that's what's gon na make. It look very dimensional and also putting the level 9 into the 9 and clear that's gon na give it that separation she's gon na get that rich chocolate feel to enhance her curl. As long as it's lighter you get to see that revolution in the curl bring me in my hand, condoms. Where are all my god, we didn't, we don't have them. Okay. Now she has to go to the back and get me my hand, condoms cuz. I do need protection what I should do it wrong yeah we are gon na apply the 7 BB at her vataj. This will blend away the striping or the stitch marks from the foil highlights. There'S gon na be some areas here. That you'll see me drag the 7 BB down like right here. I feel like this one has a little bit of warmth that remained from her old color, so you'll see me ribbon through 7bv. So, even though I'm creating a shower route, I'm gon na blur that shower route down and create a low white. I love that fact that my curls will pop more you like things popping that I love so we're just gon na apply this here and then we'll come back and show I'll show you how I ribbon down to low White's feel so right. So wrong and true. I need to know if you feel it too yeah, maybe I'm wrong. Won'T you tell me if I'm coming on too strong, okay, all right, so we're gon na do 9bb we're gon na squeeze it in all right, where's, my six-volume Nora, Oh ask and you shall receive yes, okay, let's put it in 1 to 2 ratio. This is the 9bb, you guys can't know. What'S gon na whisk her up and I'm gon na get that olap. It'S really ok on the poor end. There we go. I should guys know I didn't bring the highlights all the way down. This is her old highlight, so I'm gon na go back in to my old formula, which is the 7 BB. I'M gon na drag that 7 BB down to where it meets that highlight right. So that way we get that transition. So now we're gon na go back into the nine BB, I'm going to use the back of my palm here. So I don't cross-contaminate and then we're gon na put the 9 BB down through the ends. Now is she gon na go dark or yes, but anytime? We'Re putting more rich pigment in it will always appear deeper. I like to keep things nice and clean. Ok, so I'm gon na let my next section down and from this point I'm gon na - do the nine BB I'm gon na mesh, the seven and a nine together right from her vataj there and drag it down, and this is where the ends look slightly. Blonder right, so I'm gon na leap, those ends out so you'll see me, drag the seven down below I'll, put the seven higher in the next section to let the 9 go up higher, so we're creating multiple dimension with curly hair. Sometimes you guys see where the curl lives. What is that hair lives, and sometimes that sounds kind of weird, but you have to drop it. Okay, I see where it stays. So this is where I'm gon na go in and pull her out and then drag that seven BB down a little bit further through there. Just for that specific area that way the hair has separations. So when the curls drop on top of each other, you see movements. Sometimes we get stuck in a way where we just want to do seven, eight and ten, just ombré straight down, but you're still creating like seven eight ten. It gets kind of boring. So we still want to create vertical dimension versus just a plain, horizontal dimension, so by dragging some up and down low and high you're having horizontal and vertical dimensions. So when they collide together, your Kring different movements right and I'm working with they're, not nothing natural. But the brown that was lifted under here I'm gon na work with it. I feel it's very important to know that we can lay or color on top of each other think about when you get your nails done. We layer like a base coat and a top coat. I like to think of hair color the same way. I think it's important that when we layered a color instead of looking at it as an additional step, look at it as you're, creating a work of art by layering, the colors, exactly okay. So when you go into the 9b okay - and this is important - that I'm gon na bring someone to clear up higher, so I'm gon na leave some of that out right through there and we'll be right back alright guys. So this is the remaining of my 9 BB in my bowl. So whatever is left in my bowl from me, coloring her hair, I'm gon na, add the crystal clear in it. You don't want to waste what's already in the bowl and mix another. One. Just add the clear into this, and this will go a long ways: 6 volume, and then you have a level 10 BB, so we took that 9 and shift it to a 10. So that way, when I put this around these lighter pieces, we won't completely take away her diamond seond. Let'S not forget we got to treat that hair all right. So now I'm adding the clear formula within 9b v. Okay, you'll see me start from the front and I'll hold this section and I'll drag every piece in okay. You'Ll see me: do this see I'll drag all these piece in and put that mesh sheet down right below it? We decide to air dry, her hair, so we let her air dry so that we can see her natural crawl cuz. I feel like this is really important for you guys to see. I want women and any girl with curly hair to really appreciate their curly hair, because people think that the grass is greener on the other side, but it's really not it's greener, where you water it. Oh, I believe that every curly-haired girl feels like their hair needs to be maybe flatter less frizz. But frizz is what makes your hair curly love. It don't touch it cuz. You know that people that sit behind me in class. I do not appreciate your bouncing. My curls, I don't, I know it's beautiful, but not boy, bye, bye if you sit behind Nicki in class, so we gon na let Nicky process for 25 minutes and we'll be right back mocha, chocolates, Tata's, there's your class. We both got socks. I love your hair. How do you love my hair? I haven't been a brunette or like a darker blonde in such a long time, it's kind of nice to semi be almost natural like this could be. I could fool someone be like. Yes, is mine out your hair. I know Nora has something to say: don't you I'm excited? We finally have some more curly hair to show off the color there curly hair girls. We have it here. It'S like the perfect balance. It has like a little bit of warmth, but a lot of cool. So it's wearable, especially for today with everyone, ended man of cool tones, so you get to have that chocolate, latte tone but geared towards the cooler size. So you can stay cool but look hot any last words on how you feel about your hair. Besides, you love that I did tit. Oh, like I look natural and it's not blonde and I feel like a lot of curly. How are we talking early a lot of curly here? It'S like to go lighter, but I love this color of my hair. It'S not too dark, so all my curls, don't just vanish right, still have that individuality to them yeah, it's like they still pop. So you guys leave your comments below. I want to know what you guys think it's all about. You know a lot of times. I feel like hair besties have been used to me kind of doing rainbow green orange neon different tones. This is a new take. I want to show you guys natural tones, so you guys can recreate it in a salon and get colors that you probably wear. More often the nanny right, so let me know what you guys think thumbs up subscribe and I'm gon na leave links below for you to follow me on instagram Facebook and you can stalk the girls to love you much