How To: Pastel Vivids Hair Dye With Pulp Riot And Pravana - Peekaboo Hair Dye - Full Tutorial

All right, so everyone who doesn't know me, I'm Becks, I work with, are tell on Fraser Street and I'll be teaching you guys some vivid colors today and if you have any questions, just shoot away, no problem. This is my model, Britt she's, also a hairdresser, and, as you can see, she we decolorized her hair yesterday already to prepare it, and so you guys don't have to sit here for her. She only wants the back done, so I only decolorized the back a little bit more. It was already bleached. I didn't do anything else. I didn't tone it. I just II colorized it and yeah. This is basically it what we're gon na work with today and what I'm gon na be doing. I want to talk a little bit about it. I'M gon na talk about things problems I ran to in the past when you learn the hard way right and then you have to redo everything, and I hope that it just helps you guys to avoid that in the future and then I'm gon na be putting On some visits today with pop riot and pavana and yeah, we will color brand a few colors in there I'll show you the best ways to color blend it properly. So you don't have weird lines in there and it's just really nice and smooth and yeah. Now we will see the end result after that, and I also wan na want you guys to tell me if you ever had any problems or like anything where you weren't sure how to go about it. Just ask away like: let's just have a conversation about it. It doesn't have to be just me talking. We can all talk about it, okay, so, let's start off, I painted a color wheel on there. Fortunately, I didn't have colored pens, so I just wrote the colors in there or show you guys, because it's really important when you do vivid or in general hair colors, but especially for the lids. Knowing the circle is super important like if you don't know the circle. You'Re gon na be screwed really, so you start off with the consultation. You have your client and, of course, you're gon na talk about what does the client want like? What'S the desired color? And it's really really important that you know the history of the hair? What did she have done before, even if she has dark hair? Maybe she got a bleached job before so their hair is always super porous. You need to know the entire history right depending on length. If it's super long, you want to know what happened even two or three years ago to the hair, then also, what does the client want? What color is it even possible? Be really honest about it. If you have a client that wants gray or silver or any pastel colors, especially blue tones, let your client know it might take a few sessions, because it happened so often that you want to do it and it just doesn't work out right away because the hair, It has too much pigment in there or whatever. The hair has to be a level 9 or higher for pastels, blues and grays for sure, and also, if you do gray, make sure there is no yellow left in the hair, zero yellow, because a lot of Gray's are blue based and when you put it on Yellow hair, it's gon na turn, all green grows muddy and it's just doesn't look very nice same with blue tones. Also, like you have blue hair, when your client wants blue hair, let them know it will eventually turn green when it fades blue tones always turn green. Your client has to be okay with that. If a client thinks my blue is just gon na turn into really light blue, probably not gon na happen. It'S gon na turn green at some point, or they have to keep up with it constantly. But I also like to do if you do graze. Some Gray's, like the Pravana, gray or silver, is very purple based which is nice, the pop riot one, unfortunately, who are not, unfortunately, but it's very blue based. So if you want to cut that blue out a little bit to avoid any green hands from the yellow hair, put a little of orange in there just to cut the blue sounds weird, and you know be careful, though, like it just drop by drop. Don'T just like you know, I'm gon na do that. Please has anyone ever done a gray or blue and it kind of turned out weird yeah. I think we all have been different yeah, it's hard, sometimes to write. You bleach it and you and you look and it's oh yeah, looks great you wash it out and you're drying out. Oh well so really be honest, especially when it comes to pricing too right, because if you need to do it in a couple sessions, you have to accordingly tell them what the price is going to be, because you should charge for two sessions and not just one Like always make sure you charge properly for your services really important. My model Britt wants a mix of some yellow tones orange pings a little bit of purple, so it's gon na be very sunset, very natural, yes, well, she's, a hairdresser. You know it's a little bit stiff at work, so you can't go too crazy, even if they are already super blonde. I just had a girl in the other day, she's six years old. Of course, I'm not gon na bleach, her forehead and I didn't - and I let them know I'm at look if I put it on on natural hair without decolorizing at first, it's not gon na be as vibrant. It'S more like it's almost like just a tent. On top of the natural hair, so it's really not not really a vivid, it's more like a touch of color and the same applies to gray hair. If the person's naturally gray, I have a client, she is a hundred percent gray, almost white, and I did that mistake before I just like out sweet she's, always so light. I can just paint it right on right and I have washed it off. I'M like. Where did the color go? It'S just straight down the drain like basically, and so it took me a little while so I'm like okay, never mind you have to decolorize it the hair kind of works like a pinecone, so you know when the Pancras all closed. It'S nice, but you want to open it up a little bit so that the pigments just kind of get in there a little bit better and also I wrote notes. So I don't forget anything, oh yeah. So when you have the color it's kind of like painting with a pencil on sheet of paper, so imagine your hair is a sheet of paper and you have a pencil if you paint blue pencil on a yellow sheet of paper, it's gon na be green. So I always remember that when you paint hair make sure whatever your paper, your hair is that you accordingly mix the color with that. So if you have the hairs a little bit yellow still and you whatever color, you want to do add a little bit of lavender or purple to it, just to kind of cut that yellow out. Also oh yeah Brett is actually a perfect example. Britt used to be orange, like bright orange, you could see her from Broadway all right, yeah and then she comes to me and says: hey you know what Becks. I think I want to be green. I'M like, oh, that's, really awesome because she's freaking orange and now I have to turn her green, like how on earth am I gon na do that because it was pretty clear and it's that bright orange you put decolorizer on there bleach or whatever it's just gon Na make it more neon, I'm sure you guys had that before you try to bleach out the direct dye and it just makes it even brighter right. So I also don't want to wreck her hair. Obviously so I tried to work with what we have so I looked at my color wheel, okay, we're here right now, you kind of want to go there. What am I gon na? Do she's orange, so the opposite. Color is blue to cut the orange out, but I do want to be green, so I put on a turquoise which is blue and green, so the blue, just the the orange and what was left was green, so I didn't even have to bleach her or anything. I just put straight-up turquoise all over her head and she was green and that's why I you know I'm saying like the color is really important, because sometimes you don't even have to like to colorize the whole head. If she already has another color on there, you can work with it. One time I had what was it neon green? I tried okay, I'm gon na get rid of my neon green, which is kind of in this area, and it's kind of hard to write like how do you? I don't know you can't just put just red on there, because it's neon green, it's kind of yellowy too, so I figured out okay, it's in between the purple and the red, where I'm trying to get so. I put on pink, pink, eliminates neon green and vice versa. Obviously I don't know, have you guys ever had a color away? You just put something else on to create the desired color. No, nothing, okay, well great yeah! So just saying sometimes you know when, when you claim whatever your kind one side, look what the client has look at the color wheel and try to cut it out and, as I said sometimes if you want to be here she's here, you go in between those Two because there's illuminates the color and the green is left right, which would also be the same if you have orange and you want to be purple - add blue to your purple to create orange, so it to eliminate the orange and what's left, is the purple yeah. So I'm gon na start mixing up some colors and it's really fun when you get to mix them. That'S the fun part about it, because the decolorizing is always that's kind of the work part I find. And then, when you get to mix the rivets, then when it gets really fun and what I like to do personally, I like to Frankenstein my colors - I don't just like yeah. She wants pink, I'm just gon na use, Cupid from fuck riot and just dump it right in the ball, and that's it because I like to customize every color so that every client feels special and not everybody looks the same right. They everybody should have their own little formula, and I think it just makes you a better stylist when your client knows that you actually put effort into this and you just don't - dump one color in a bowl so depending on what you want, of course, as you Can see she's pretty light, the transition is a little bit darker in here, so you want to make sure I wouldn't want to put a pastel on this part because not gon na turn on it's too dark right. So I'll make sure I do a true vivid, color, the darker, the better and then the ends are pretty light, so I could work with some pastels there. I'M going to use her ends for the yellow, don't put yellow on this, not a good idea on this yeah. Definitely yeah, yellows, pastels, grace blue tones make sure the hair is super super light. I got lemon for the yellow, but it's pretty light just so make it last a little bit longer and because we like the comic-book, yellow kind of time like Emma's jacket here, I also brought Pravana yellow because that yellow is way darker. It has a little bit of an orange to minute as well, and I just find it makes it last longer. I just mix them together, don't be shy to mix direct dyes. I just go ahead and just you know mix some stuff up, so we got the cupid here, which is pretty pink, as you can see coming out of the bottle. No, I use either Pravana and pop riot for just yeah direct eyes, but I also use gold. Well, illumine yeah! I don't know if you guys have a rope with it. It'S awesome if your client really wants the color to last as long as possible, but that's a whole different story like if you use the lumen like. I definitely recommend to take a class in it because there's so much, it goes with it and it doesn't work with chemicals. It works with magnetism and it's just such a different color line. Amazing, if you want something that lasts forever for sure or not forever, but for a long time, but you've got to really make sure you know what you're doing and also yeah, if you have a client that likes to switch it up. All the time like I do, for example, I do my hair all the friggin time or today I wan na - be this color. I wouldn't use the lumen for that. I would definitely use pop right off of Anna or whatever brand you want to work with really yeah. I mean I like to you know my clients, even when they want. I have a client she wants love and her. She has super white hair. It'S like decolorize to the max. She wants to be lavender and I tell her to I look. We can put the lavender on. She wants like the lightest lavender ever, which is fine, but I'm gon na be honest to her Mike look you're gon na wash your hair twice and it's gon na be gone of course nicely enough. It'S gon na be a nice white again because it makes sure it doesn't get brassy, but it's not gon na last. Very long. If you make a little bit darker a little bit more pigment, it's going to last so much longer and the whole fading process is a part of her too right. Your client should embrace the fading process, so I'd like to go a little bit darker in general. Just to make it last way longer also when you decolorize your hair, make sure you wash it. I usually wash it twice after bleach process to really make sure there is nothing left in the hair and put conditioner on it. Close the pinecone. Just really quick, though you know you don't have to put don't put a full treatment on there, just a quick one, so you can brush through it properly and that the bleach process is really done, because otherwise it's still gon na process a little bit and your Direct dyes might not go on the hair properly. Yes, that's a really good point. Absolutely yeah. If somebody wants like a super light, blue or even a lavender toning is a really great idea for sure still shampoo it twice after the decolorizing and then tone it yeah. If the hair is too yellow for sure just because if you put like lavender on it or you know it's still, the lavender, it's gon na be enough to cut the yellow out and it's not gon na be lavender. So you have to do that twice. So yeah a quick toner for sure it's a good idea for her. As I said, I didn't need it because you're gon na go pretty bright today. So that's okay, so I have to keep it in here right now. I'M gon na add a little bit of this guy. It'S so closed. It goes my preparation. It'S really hard to open these things. I know right who doesn't yeah, I'm going to add a little bit of velvet in there. Yes, I do yeah. Well, I'm sure the color lines will tell you enough to do that. I do, though, I like to Frankenstein everything - and I just you know if you work with different color lines in general, and you have so many and sometimes you ran out of that color and there's also colors, that I prefer in one color line and then there's A color I prefer from the other color line, and I mix them together speaking on your target dies. Now, though, I'm not like mixing L'Oreal with gold well and okay, yeah, but dark dyes. I mix them together because they all work the same way right so might as well. So I put a little bit of velvet into my cupids. You can see it just creates a little bit of a richer darker, pink just gives a little bit of that deep touch to it, especially for the brassy parts in here that are not as light. I just find it goes on way nicer. What color should we do? Next, some yellow yeah everybody likes yellow. I'M really glad glad that became a thing. So, as you can see, when it comes out, it's pretty bright and, as I said earlier, I like to mix just a regular room. Yeah give yourself some wiggle room. If you do this for sure, that's what happens when you let an immigrant eh, okay, I'm gon na show you guys can't see that so my color, so I just add a little bit of it, and I really like these little things here. Little whisks, that's the word, as you can see, it's still super yellow. It'S just you know. Can you see that properly yeah? It just gives it a tiny bit more depth. It just has. I find a little bit more pigment to it. So it's just gon na last little bit longer and it takes better on the hair. It doesn't look so hollow. My ends are straight up just the lemon, but as you can see it's it's pretty light. I wanted just a tiny bit more of that cartoony yellow. So that's why I added the Pravana to it all right. That'S gon na get really messy here. What else should we do? Let'S put some lava in there? Have you guys ever worked with the neons they're super fun? I love them. They are they're just so bright. She used to have super blonde hair and she just had her little sideburns. One was lava, the other one was: what's the the candy neon pink yeah, it looks so cool it just has a little bit of ha. No, it's kind of I gave like neon lights on yourself or something really cool. This was also closed. Fresh, I mean, can see it comes out. It looks pretty orange. That'S such a fun color, that's straight-up, the lava, it's a really cool color, but same thing. I find the neons sometimes are a little bit hollow. So same thing, I'm going to add a little bit of just orange, just to give it a little bit more pigment a little bit more depth. Sometimes I do colors were mixed. I don't know seven different things together. You want to write that down like wait, wait, wait and write down how much you put on from each color because trying to do that again. Next time your client comes in. It'S probably not gon na work out. Very well. Isn'T it so beautiful? Okay, as you can see, it's so super orange yeah. We all see the result later, and you probably want to make sure you mix enough, especially when you have that all these mixed colors make sure you're having nothing after it to take it, which also brings me to the fact table riots. Work with porosity make sure you really get enough color on there. If you don't, if you try to save your color and just like you know a little bit here and there, it's not gon na, really soak it out because they're pretty you know, they're they're, pretty not stiff but thick. So it doesn't really like a toner gets kind of everywhere. The hairs wet, but your hair is going to be dry right, always apply to dry hair, so really make sure you get enough in there. So so you really cover every hair shaft. So what else do we do we're gon na? Do some velvet as well create some purple here? The velvet is quite purple already, as you can see, but I feel like it's not purple enough. I want to add a little bit light for dark blue to it. Just to make it a bit darker a little bit of growth, just give it a little bit more depth as well. You already know how girls, and sometimes you just you know you just mix it together, and maybe you have to like add a little bit more here in there just kind of see how it goes. Sometimes, when I'm not sure how it's gon na turn out on the hair, take a little test trend somewhere here and just test it on paint it on. You can usually already tell if that's going to be enough to cover whatever her hair's like or not, and if it's going to be the desired color as well for pastels, by the way guys, if you put on a pastel and you mix it together, I have The blush here, pastel, pink, beautiful, color, it's it literally looks like bubblegum and if you're not sure, if that's enough pigment paint on a test run first and see how it turns out same thing with that dome. I'M gon na add a little of this. Just to give it a little bit more pigment because pastels have only very little amount of pigment so make sure there is enough pigment to cover whatever you work with when you run out of pastels, 1/3, pink 2/3 conditioner in general, I to the one third color. 2/3 conditioner to make pastels and it's hard to tell sometimes I always recommend doing a test run for that, because sometimes you look in the bowl and it's the perfect color. You paint it on the hair and there's not enough pigment, you wash it out. It'S still blond so make sure you do a little test trend and make sure it looks a little bit darker in the bowl. Then you want the hair to be. Did you guys ever do any pastels and you'll wash it out, and you know like? Oh well hope you brought some time today because we'll do that again: yeah that definitely happens so yeah. Here'S my little tray on all the rest on Sierra yeah. So what I'm gon na be doing, huh or looks delicious is our cooking class yeah. So you know just looking at it already. You can tell these are the darkest colors. So I will concentrate with these closer to the mid-shaft here and then have the lighter pastelly colors, which looks the really vibrant in the bowl, but they are gon na turn out. Quite light, especially after you dry it, the hair, those are going to go more on the ends, because these are really blond already. When you do pastels, I personally like to make the route a little bit darker, because you see my hair is really short. So there was no way I could drop a root in there, because my hair is just rude, but, as you can see, when you really pull it apart, you see how it looks kind of hollow. Almost you know, people sweat, especially you after you did a full head of bleach. The skin is so dry, it kind of starts. Sweating starts shooting out oil, so it doesn't take super properly on the route I find, sometimes especially with lighter colors, and that's why I prefer to do a darker route, a little bit of a shadow root or whatever, or even if you still have the same pastel And mix - let's say: pastel pink, I mix some Cupit or a little bit of velvet in there and just put that on the root it just makes it a little bit gives a little more depth and looks better, especially because when you wash your hair everybody does This all the time so find on the route. It washes out faster, sometimes, and it just looks so much better when you have a darker route. Now, of course, before you start applying, make sure your client has the safety cape on. So you don't wreck, it's important guys. Have you ever wrecked your clients shirt? I sure have I've been doing here for 12 years and trust me, it's very uncomfortable when you wreck their clothes, they don't make it they're like well. I was wearing this awesome white turtleneck today and now it's not white anymore. Why did you wear gentlemen sure I agree. What is wrong with that yeah same with the sink guys, if you do Vivid's make sure that sink is clean. The next person sits down and has a colored shirt after and that's even worse it wasn't. Even your fault say: you've got no one to blame, but your coworker yeah. I like to put definitely two towels in there. Just in case you never know and also please. I know that sounds stupid, but please wear gloves when you do color, I'm not gon na drop any names. I wasn't looking at you. Yes, but do you know what I'm talking about anything we work with? Oh, I work with so many people that put on color or bleach and they don't wear gloves or wash it out. Well, the thing is also: you have chemicals on your hands all day and you already wash your hands a lot. So you know you set yourself up for failure, because you might get what I call eczema. I guess it's an exam, oh and then you have to stop working. I have a co-worker. He can't do any hair colors anymore. It'S done. He will never be able to do a color again, even when he wears gloves yeah his hands are totally sensitive. Now I'm gon na get rid of these guys. Real, quick, thank you, I'm just gon na say. Please behave while I'm going don't burn down this place. The thing I work at the other location shift a little safety. You walk through first, what to do in an emergency. Also, please, if you do hundreds of colors doesn't matter, I have them in separate bowls and you separate brushes. It'S gon na get really messy. If you use the one brush for colors, I've seen everything yeah. So, let's start fun part in general I like to when I color blend whatsoever, I like to start in the nape and then just let it drop. You put them on really thick and you just drop it, and it's usually fine, especially when you do a color blend, because you kind of want the colors to all mix in with each other. Does that make sense? However, if you have a client that wants colors like no, I want some green and then I want some pink in there - maybe put them in foils just to make sure they don't slip on to each other, because it's gon na create a really weird looking mud. Yeah yeah, I was gon na, say vomit, but uh it's just not very pretty. Just don't do you guys do a lot of color once you get into it. I guess, but I kind of like weird took off in hairdressing. I mean like ten years ago. Everybody want to just highlights and lowlights, and that was pretend perms hey you're, like wow. This is really fun, so glad I'm a hairdresser. So, as you can see, it's relatively short down here so in that matter I won't even bother color blending because that's just gon na look splotchy, so I'm just gon na paint it directly on and I'm gon na start with the darker colors. What should we call this raspberry, mainly mmm, no getting fancy how I like it. I also like to always tell my clients what I'm doing, educate your clients. It makes them feel, like you really know your stuff, I'm pretty sure all my clients know about the pinecone, because I always tell them your hair is a pinecone. You go decolorize it. It opens up your pinecone, it's true, but they really get into. You would be surprised once you're once you start talking about what you're doing with your clients your clients actually really get into the whole coloring process. In there they go home and they tell their friends. They meet up with their friend for coffee, netic man. My hairdresser today told me all these cool things and it's weird of the sudden they're not complaining about their husbands anymore now, they're talking, hair, colors and that's great because that's good business for you. You want their friends to know too right. I'M just gon na drop that right here. Thanks girl, ok, next part, I'm gon na do this guy. Should we call that purple exotic, very exotic and don't be shy to put it a little bit higher than you decolorized. The hair, because it's not gon na, go on here anyway. It'S her hair's too dark. It'S not gon na take and it's better having a little bit higher than leaving a gap somewhere in there. As you can see, I keep going back in there and just really mushing it in it's like a little blanket and you want to make sure the hair is warm. No, I don't use a comb because when you use a comb to comb it through, you take color off the hair, so I usually avoid that. Just really you know. Sometimes I go back in pull it apart. Like oh yeah see we forgot a little friend right. There and I'll just paint it back on yeah. I get really messy with that, the Messier the better but keep it to the client. Don'T thanks! Yeah! That'S right! I was thinking about that. The other day too I mean - maybe I should bring. I could drop thing. It'S like Dex is working watch out, don't trip yeah, I can get pretty messy. You can usually tell who in the salon uses the most divots, because there is color splatters everywhere around yeah yeah she's, a Spiller. That'S true! Hey! So am i yeah? It was always fun working with her too, though, and she she loves doing livets as well, and it's nice too. You know, when I mean, has nothing to do with its class, but when you see you, somebody is doing rivets and it's a way bigger process than they thought it was, and you have nothing to do, go and help them. There'S nothing nicer than having a co-worker step up for you and help you yeah. We did that a lot. I know I mostly work by myself like no. I can't cry up for help ever but yeah, it's really nice. When somebody comes up and said, hey, do you need some help or let me clean this already for you or whatever. So now we're getting a little bit longer and here already, but as you can see, the ends are still pretty dark because she didn't have any any bleach down here before yesterday. So there's only beach ones. So I'm gon na continue with darker colors, but I really feel like how a blending at this point, so I'm just gon na color, blend the purple into a raspberry jam when you color blend, I always put on the darker color first on the route and then I mean these are both pretty dark, so it doesn't really matter that much make sure you really have it underneath as well, there's nothing worse than washing it out afterwards and there's a blind spot in there. It'S just so frustrating if you have a really light color in the ends. I will show you that later again with the yellow - and you don't want to get your brush dirty, you don't want to get that color on this brush right. So I start down here. First and then work my way up slowly and then go back with our exotic color it. You know you will be surprised because it doesn't hurt the purple so much when there's a little bit of pink on this. It'S just it won't show up. No, I'm really just the more you just kind of sided down with your fingers, smush it in and clean your hands in between colors I like to yeah, I usually trace I put on a tray or just on the shoulder of my client depends on how high You climb this, she doesn't mind, she loves it. Okay, so this end is already a little bit lighter. I can't even put the lava on there and then you always see okay, purple and lava. It'S like you know that transition is not gon na. Be too nice like purple and orange is kind of yeah, so I would rather do this guy again. Our raspberry paint it on the route again get really in there. Wipe your hands in the tool and then I'll put on the lava is that cool, color right now and now go back with my raspberry to blend it down a little bit more. You see, I always leave a little bit of a gap here and go back into it with the darker color and then slide it down. So you have a really nice transition afterwards, when you do multiple colors. I personally like to make sure I don't take the chunks too small, like the slices, because if you have really fine slices and you do a bunch of colors once it's dry - it's just kind of all floats into each other. But you can't really tell the colors apart anymore, so make sure it's not too thin either. So you have a really nice blending. You can tell all the colors, because otherwise it's just like one big mix of everything or just like to mingle II. You know, I think I want to do the same one on this side, so when she puts it up, it's just it looks nicer. If it's a little bit more evened out, you guys all see sure can you see always make sure you painted on everything? What'S your most horrifying story you ever had with hair colors doesn't matter. Why are in general, now the truth comes out. I think we all have a long. Have you ever had anyone cry in your chair thanks for bringing that up. That is another part back to consultation. That'S why you ask your kind, would have they gotten done if somebody had box died, you might want to take a test ran first, I had a girl and she lied about it. I asked her. She had naturally very dark hair, so I didn't know I asked her I'm like look. Is there any box die in this? No I'm like okay cool put on the bleach. I always make sure you check after a few minutes, just to see what's going on on your cleanse net. You know don't just go in the back and disappear on Instagram for half an hour because yeah I checked back after a few minutes and the hair was a. It was a chemical fire. I couldn't even touch her hair, it was. It was so hot. I would take dripping down and I had to take her to the sink immediately lucky enough. She didn't have to take the hair back home in a bag, but she didn't, but she might have had if I didn't check after a few minutes and she's all terrified yeah priceless happening. I'M like well to be honest is happening because he lied to me. You didn't tell me, hey, you could have just told me: hey, there's box die in there because a lot of box dyes have minerals in it and it just doesn't go so well with bleach yeah, yeah mmhmm yeah is literally a chemical fire on your hair and A lot of clients don't know that they don't want to tell you because they think. Oh, maybe if I tell her, she won't do my hair, but as I cook, this is actually to save your buck. So yeah consultations super important. I always be honest with your clients and explain as much as you can to them so that they really know what's going on. Yes, yeah. Well, that's good! I guess I don't know what to tell you. That'S yeah! You don't want to do like a permanent. I can feel the bleach process after that yeah, no fair enough. That'S just fair! All right! So now ya see the hairs get all the longer for me, so I can like actually really get in there and color blend some stuff. I want to do the same as I did on this one. Just so you know it's not too wishy-washy all over the place and what do an entire line, just like of this color blend now mix it up. You know like have like one full line. Just one color blend and then the next one you switch it up again and do multiples or whatever I always find the less structure you have in it, the better which just looks cooler so because I want to use the pastel pink here. I want to start with that, so I don't get any purple in the ends and just go a little bit higher than you're, anticipating or leaving it afterwards, because that will mix with the purple. I like that, we called it purple it's hard to remember, but I think I got it down, though, at like really get it in there. Just imagine it's like some really old dry shriveled skin and you want to get that lotion on there. Just hydrator just like Willy okay, all right anyway, so let's move on to the purple, hmm and then you uh yeah, you put the purple on afterwards and then you kind of go down a little bit further. So in this part here the process up hang in the purple mix together and just create a really nice in-between shade. I really like working with direct dyes, because the color blending is so easy and smooth if you really work the color in with your fingers and keep pulling it down. If you also, if you do color bands, make sure you book yourself enough time it it really. Sometimes you think oh yeah, I'm just going to put you know some Pavano or some pop right on their wheel. Click doesn't take long half an hour. It'S probably going to take more than half now if you have a full head and wipe their hands in between super important. So also, let's talk about home care. When you apply Vivid's, you can do the best job in the world. If your client goes home and uses a deep cleansing shampoo after especially in your color blend - and they just do this at home in the shower - that's a no-go - you don't want, like educate your clients, how to properly take care of it, and I know not a Lot of people like it, but you have to tell them wash it cold. Cold water is super important. It makes that color lasts so much longer. I have clients that go home, have a hot shower and the colors gone within a week. I have a client, her name is Jabbar Abba and watch Jane and she gets Papa Riots done and I do her hair every three months and when she comes into the salon it is still super vibrant. My favorite go-to is the cut yeah. Well, no shampoo would be the best. I know it's really hard for some clients, but definitely use a color, safe shampoo and try to not shampoo it. Every time condition. Just rinse and condition is the best if we use a shampoo really minimal and try to just keep it to the scalp. Don'T wash everything together because especially color blends one color is gon na bleed into the other. We have purple on here. I'M gon na have yellow on here in a bit and when that purple hits the yellow it's gon na get super muddy because they're on the opposite spectrum of the color wheel - and it just doesn't look very nice yeah, always make sure they use a professional color. Shampoo and conditioner, but yeah. I personally think if you want the Ritz, you shouldn't be that person that's going to hot yoga everyday and it has to wash your hair every day. It'S probably not the best color to do for your client, you can't it's a whole lifestyle that goes with the right. You want a nice hair or you want did it here. You shouldn't be going into the public swimming pool, keep your hair out of it. That'S awesome well sounds like not. A lot of people are drowning there, so she probably doesn't have to go into the pool that often, I hope yeah. It'S really important, because a lot of clients I mean what is so logical for us is not your clients. Don'T know they don't know anything about hair, they think they can just go on with their normal life, and everything is fine, like your mighty hairdressers. Gon na put this color on and that's it forever. Of course, it's not gon na fade. You can have a white pillow, no yeah. You really want to educate your clients on that, and that's what I mean like the more you talk to your clients about it. You don't have to have a full checklist. Okay, I have to talk about this point at this point. The more you talk about it. It just comes naturally and yeah. You will notice, oh I'm actually at you, King. My kind is pretty well on this. Just keep talking exactly they don't they really don't know, and you want to make sure that they do know by the time they leave your chair, how to properly take care of a color like that, I'm so excited for this is gon na be fun and they Always look so delicious. Has anyone ever tried eating them? I haven't you probably shouldn't either. Well, it's the same thing, my warning. Sometimes you read them. You know like okay, why would you put like crush on coffee is hot, like yeah, I hope so that's what I bought it, but there's a reason for it now some people's. Well, that's the thing right. Somebody did somebody used it on their eyelashes and it's the same with your hair. Somebody got Vivid's and went to hot yoga and then jumped into the pool right after yeah. I guess pretty great things and then they come back two days later and it's your time right and how do you go about that? I mean that's kind of what everybody has to make up for their own. I guarantee my colors, of course, if something happened, I'm going to take care of my client. I just feel like that's that's what I'm here for, but I also educate my client 100 %, and I tell them you have to do these steps. Otherwise, I can't guarantee the color, so if you go home and you wash it right away with like some cheap shampoo, I'm not gon na guarantee that color is kated on this. This is your home care. The home care is part of the whole process. We really make sure you talk about that. Don'T just I know. Sometimes we are no rash. You know you're, like three clients behind you haven't eaten all day. You get grumpy and you just want that client. You didn't even take her after photo. You just try to you, know, get the next one in, but really take that, even if it, if you do it, while you applet, don't talk about other stuff educate your crime. Are you so you don't need the time afterwards to do it, because there's lots of time while you apply to talk about stuff like that, so I think we are ready to put on some ghetto everybody's favorite. You should get fancy with this and call it yellow too huh. Okay, when I do yellow or pastels in the ends, I always put that on first, just so make sure it stays as clean as possible. Make sure your glove is clean too super important. Why not same thing? I don't really want to put purple in it, because it's when it washes out it's not going to look that nice, so I'm gon na use our raspberry tone instead, and when that you know because you color blender, you always have to sing. If you color blender, what are these two colors gon na create because that's what's going to be in the middle part of it? So if you have this pinky going into a yellow, it's just gon na be a peach color in the middle part, and that looks actually really nice. I had a client once she wanted purple and yellow everywhere, like mixed in with each other you're better off. If you use elumen for those cases, because the illumined isn't bleeped but same thing, if you wash that hair cold, it's not going to bleed as much it makes, the temperature of the water is extremely important. I can't tell my clients often enough. I know you don't like it, but please use cold water. It makes a huge difference in the last thing of your color. Let'S do some lava. This color is gon na. Look really nice later. Hmm, let's keep on going with this guy. You guys have any other questions, something or problems you ran into where you learned something new from it. That depends on what I'm doing for something like that. I don't really care too much, because I'm just getting the color on the hair. I do the rest of my fingers. If I have a root blend, I like to use a soft brush for the root blend, because I find if the brush is softer on the root it feathers out a bit nicer. Then a stiff brush kind of is too hard and creates a line and also when you paint it on to the root. I don't just do this. I angle my brush and feather it down, so you put it on first and then you go in vertical and just pull it down a little bit just to create a little bit more of a line yeah. I personally work with Google, so I use the gold. Well, oxy cure for my bleach processes. I mean. Obviously it depends on what brand you work with. What do you feel comfortable with make sure you don't fry it right? I don't. You can only do so much to hair and that's what I mean to is the whole consultation. But you really honest with your client you're, better off, saying, hey, you know what I would like to get you there, but it might take a couple sessions just to be safe. If you still do it in one session, even better, but at least your clients not gon na, be disappointed, because if your client expects to walk out with that desired color that day and it doesn't happen, there's going to be a disappointment. Even if that person is super understanding of it, there is still you know, there's a disappointment and there kind of switches the whole the whole atmosphere about it. The whole energy around the whole - it's just not gon na, be as awesome, but if you're realistic and you especially when the person is dark and they want to go vivid color, let's say Diana wants to go bright, pink, I'm probably gon na tell her hey. You know what I would love to do that, but just letting you know you might have to be a caramel in between for a few weeks. Let your hair, you know, digest the first session a little bit make sure you treat your hair at home, but get a good. You know, sell her. A really good hair treatment send her home with that. So she can take proper care of her hair in between and then come back in four weeks and then do it again. I personally like to give the hair some rest like about a month. Some people do it in two days. I'M sure you guys also have that happen before that a client comes in and shows you a guy tank photo and you're like great that's cool, so I'm gon na do that and not saying you can't do it. Of course you can do it, but they think they come in four to three hours and walk out. Looking like one of Gretchen's models yeah, this is his work, takes at least two days full days, one model and that's as color services, gon na cost two grand. Let you climb that no it's like, of course, I can do that. Do you have two full days bring a toothbrush and two and bring you know it's gon na cost. It costs money like, of course, if you do someone's hair for eight hours a day and it's two days, that's not gon na be cheap and he has assistants assistants. Funny enough. You bring that up, because when I was in my master colorist class, we talked about pricing as well, and the opinions on that are very different. My teacher said it's better to have a set price for several things I personally charge by the hour. I do that because, in my opinion, if somebody has really fine hair, it's gon na be so much hassle. I use less product if somebody has a lot because they're like what, if you have to use so much product, you should charge for that. Yes, of course, but I already take longer anyway, so that's the cost. The cost of my product is already in the hourly rate. Yeah I mean everybody has a different opinion on that. Really I mean I can't tell you how to charge your clients. The only thing I like to tell people is charge accordingly and charge what you're worth and don't feel bad, and I trust me I have been there so many times you do something and you're shy about it. All of the sudden right, like mmm whoo, that's gon na be a $ 500 nervous, hmm and you feel bad for some reason. You shouldn't feel bad because you worked really hard for this. You pay for your education too. You pay for your either your chair. If you have chair and/or Commission, but you know, there's costs for you too, and you also have bills to pay, and I think everybody should always charge what they're worth don't be shy about it. It'S not just doing a job. This is passion. This is art yeah. I think it will be really fun once we're done. Oh yeah could use one of those same thing, pricing and trust me. It took me years and years and years to learn it. If you have a proper consultation and you let you Klein know, this is how long I think it's gon na take be realistic, don't promise things you can keep be really realistic and let them know what they're looking at so they there is no big surprises at The end I had people come in, you witnessed it, I'm pretty sure you two were there too comes in. I want like this full-color thing going on, which would take at least three four hours, which is like. I have 90 bucks. Well, that's great well see here's! The thing too, though, don't be rude, they don't know right like just being look and I actually take the time because obviously this person has no idea. I take the time to explain to them. Why that's not going to happen. I don't just say: oh sorry, that's not happening. Bye have a great day. I actually sit down with them. Take the two minutes and explain: look, this is what you hunt, and this is the process it will have to take for it and I'm sorry you're more likely. Looking at this amount of price, it just makes them understand a little bit better and more likely if she ever decides most likely she's gon na walk out and not come back, but if they do, I decide to get it done properly. They will come back to you because you took the two minutes to explain it right and especially vivid a lot of clients. Don'T know that your hair has to be decolorized before and that that is also an entire process that adds up on the bill as well. But also timewise don't come in wanting a full bleach out and then visit and say: oh yeah. I have to be at work in an hour and a half fYI I've seen a lot of thing, yeah right, yeah! Well, you see if she just really wants one foil whatever, but if it's a full head yeah, you kind of putting me on a spot here right now. I don't know what to do. I did my Master's last year in February, actually yeah it was about a year. You know, go well yeah. My my rep talked me into it. I wanted to do for a long time, but here's the thing too. I mean obviously education cost money and I was hesitant because it was mine was $ 900. I'M like oh, I don't really have the money I'm gon na do it later and then my rep set me down and he's like look Bex. You will never actually just have that left over. Let'S be honest, you really don't it's never like boom. I have 900 facts. Oh I'm going to do. I think I'll do my masters. Color is no, but you know what it's so important to educate yourself and you learn so much every time you take a class every time you learn some new, you improve as a stylist, and you will make that money back with your clients and your clients. La tell your clients, hey, you know what I took this amazing class, and this is what I learned. I would like to try that out on you get your clients excited about it too, and your client really appreciates hearing that you take care of your education. They want to hear about it. I talk so much about hair with my clients that half of them could probably be a stylist themselves by now. Maybe not, but I think it's really important to talk about the whole process and talk about how how you educate yourself, because the more you do that they also know okay, she charges this much. But I know why I at this point I like to say both because yes, I got trained in Germany and did my apprenticeship there etc, and I did a few competitions back then. But ever since I moved to Canada, I feel, like my educational point, got so much better, because what I learned back then, is enough to be a stylist, but it's not enough to be good at something. You know what I mean like. I took so many classes in Canada, it's ridiculous. I remember first ones I took. I wasn't even sure if I'm going to understand what they say, because I didn't really speak English and I moved here. I was like, but whatever you just go, anyways and I don't know I feel like when you're a hairdresser, there's almost no language barrier, you just do it and yeah. I know I was even thinking, maybe one day, doing a little class where everybody brings a model in as well, so it's just more fun for everyone. I think that would be really nice. Hmm. I was here as a kid a lot. Okay! Oh no! We'Re talking about me well, I moved as I was here as a kid visiting, and I just really liked it. I thought Canada is really cool. I came to the airport and I saw all the art that is there and I was like. Oh, this is cool. I got out of the airport drove to downtown. You know I can't remember which bridge exactly it was pretty. I can be birches, I'm like entering downtown as a ten-year-old coming from a small city in Germany and like wow high-rise buildings, it's called hexed. Ah, it's a very small city right in the middle of Germany, actually and kind of in the middle of nowhere, yeah beautiful nice. Where is that never heard of it? Okay, yeah see, I never really went even in that direction. Yeah, I'm! Okay! On that. I also find hairdressing here in Canada is a totally different story, because in Germany I was a hairdresser and people thought oh you're, just a hairdresser, I'm like excuse me, that's the best job in the world and then I moved to Canada and everybody said how cool Your stylist like yeah right because it's so fun like look at what I get to do all day. This is amazing, so it's three years. Yes, I would love to bring that to Canada actually because you work in a salon and you go to school at the same time. For a second I don't know, I think it was a photo some more yellow, so you really want to make sure you really really get it in there, especially when you start in the lower part. It'S almost in the ends already so feather this all out. So you can see okay, there's got to meets more color, really important like make sure you really get it everywhere that little those two seconds that you spend now like pulling it apart, I'm really getting it everywhere, can save you an entire process afterwards again, because, even If it's just a little spot that you can paint on real quick afterwards, it says the process. So now you put in another half an hour on top of everything right pink with purple.