101: Hair Color For Your Client'S Skin Tone And Eye Color | Kenra Color

In this video we'll be discussing how to formulate the perfect color to suit your clients, eye color, skin tone and their preference. If you have any questions during this video just comment below, let's get started. Client consultation is one of the most important parts to achieving a perfect color service. This is something we should be doing with new and existing clients to make sure we totally understand their lifestyle, preference and the starting campus that they have. This is also a really great opportunity for us, as colors, to give professional recommendations that our clients might not try. Otherwise, so let's talk about some of the things that you should be discussing, all of our clients coming in have unique characteristics that are very specific to them. So these are things that we should be identifying in the client profile. Some of the characteristics for their canvas include their natural level, their desired level in tone, percentage of gray, texture density and the integrity level of their hair. Additional things we should be considering are those natural features that really stand out for each client, so this includes eye color skin tone, then discussing their complimentary influence, contrasting influence and preferential influence. A pro tip to keep in mind when doing your consultation is to remember that the technique should fit the client rather than the client having to fit the technique. This is truly our opportunity to make our color services really unique to each person that comes into our chair. Skin undertone is defined as the tonality that exists under the surface of your skin. This is a great way to identify the overall tonality of the color we're looking to achieve with each client, and it can usually be identified as warm neutral or cool. This typically doesn't change with each client and stays pretty consistent over their lifetime. My favorite way to identify the undertone of the skin is to take a look at my clients, inner wrist, because this is the most undisrupted area of the skin and think of the veins as kind of your indicator. So the veins to the human eye appear blue and you'll. Think of your skin over that area as a filter. Your tone is typically either gon na have green influence or violet influence. So, if you're, looking at your veins - and you see that the blue has a little bit more of a green hue, you know that your undertone is more of a yellow or warm tonality. If you're seeing a little bit more of a violet hue, this means that you have more pink influence to your undertone, which is typically a cooler tonality if you're not seeing strong influence either way. That might just mean you have a neutral undertone tonality, a pro tip to remember. That'S been really helpful for me when identifying the undertone of a client's skin is to remember that these are just benchmarks, so everything is very specific and relative to your client. If you're thinking of warm undertones, think of that peach, gold or yellow influence, if you're thinking more of a cool undertone remind yourself that those are gon na be pink blue and violet influential tones next, let's talk about the surface tone of your clients skin. This is a little bit different from undertone being that this is what exists on the outermost portion of our skin, so think of this as the level of lightness or depth, efficient ally of our skin has, and also think of the characteristics that make your skin unique. These are also gon na exist on the surface tone. A pro tip to remember about the surface tone of your skin is that this can absolutely change based on what we expose our skin to so. This is why it's so important to evaluate the surface tone of our skin every time our client comes into the salon, especially when the seasons change. Next, let's talk about eye color. This is one of my favorite natural features to discuss and consultation, because this is really powerful to bring out in each client. The best way to bring out someone's eyes is to figure out what its complimentary influences. Typically complimentary. Influence in this instance is going to be the color opposite to it. On the color wheel, we can bring out a client's eyes by either formulating specifically or through our placement. So keep that in mind as you're customizing. Each look to every client now that we know how to identify our clients unique profile, it's time to use that information. So, let's give examples of exactly how we take our client profile to perfect that formulation for every one that comes in the chair in this case, we'll be using the terms complimentary influence to focus on what will complement natural features. Contrasting influence is gon na, be the opposite, so this is gon na be what we'll contrast. What our client naturally has keep in mind that, just because you formulate something that contrasts your clients, natural features that doesn't always mean it's gon na look bad, sometimes the most striking end result exists on someone who has contrasting influence. So let's do a couple examples and showcase all this information, starting with our clients, skin tone and undertone. We want to kind of figure out the overall tonality that we formulate with for each client. I love having my swatch book ready so that I can hold up specific tonal families to my clients, skin tone to figure out exactly what's gon na work best for them pro tip for utilizing skin tone and undertone is remembering that this is a great opportunity for Us to make professional recommendations, so we can show our client what naturally complements them and what naturally contrasts with their features, but then make a recommendation of what we think will look best if your clients overall influence is warm the tonal families that will complement it best. Will also be worn in Kendra color. We have so many amazing shades that support the warm influence. Some of my favorites include our copper series and our copper gold series, our gold series and our gold Brown series. If your clients, skin tone, is more on the cool side, the compliment is gon na also be cool tones. We have a great variety of options to support cool tone out of these as well in camera color. These include our ash series, our double ash series and also our natural ultra assets. A great pro tip about our natural trash's is that they actually do cover gray 100 %. So if you have a client that also needs great coverage, these are a fabulous option to include if your client has more of a neutral influence, a variety of shades will complement them really well. Some of my favorite tonality is in camera. Color that works for neutral skin include our n series and our B series. Additionally, one of my favorite things to do with clients that have neutral skin tone and more flexibility in terms of influence is to flip in our swatch book to the artistic section. Some of my personal favorites include our silver metallics are violet metallic bronze metallics and rose metallics. If you were your client want to formulate contrasting their natural influence, all you have to do is formulate opposite to their influence on the color wheel, one of my favorite pro tips when creating contrasting influence for really striking end results is to play around with level change. So when you're, taking a look at your clients, natural level, some really striking end results are dark features with really light hair or really emphasizing that difference. So keep that in mind as you're playing around with contrast, typically with eye color, our strategy is to formulate its opposite or its complement on the color wheel. So the word complement is a little bit different when we're speaking to eye color. This is when we're speaking to colors opposite to one another on the color wheel. Typically, these neutralize one another in terms of color theory, but when you place them next to one another, they really stand out so to make. I colors really pop and really be accentuated. We want to formulate, with its complement, taking a look at the color wheel as reference. If your client has blue eyes, copper is going to be its complement. If your client has green eyes, red or pink fleshy tones will compliment a protip. To keep in mind is to assess the lightness or darkness of your clients eye color. This is really important to include in formulation, so we can really make them pop if your client has light brown eyes. This typically has some gold influence to it, so usually cool violet bases are gon na, be a great complement for that tonality. If your client has brown or deep brown eyes, typically lighter influences or accents will really help bring out their contrast. If you're choosing to do face framing or accent work to bring out those deep, rich brown eyes, a pro tip is to take a look at the innermost portion of that eye and see if there's any specs, usually that spec has warm or cool influence, and this Can really help you formulate, according to your clients, natural feature hazel eyes, typically have a light brown base with some green influence so based on your clients, skin tone and their personal preference. You could either formulate cool blushy hues to really bring that out, or some violet based tones as well. A pro tip for artistic formulation is that hazel eyes are one of my favorite features to formulate rose, gold or mop tips, for if your client has great eyes. These tend to be complemented by really vibrant shades or dark rich shades. Remember that these are totally just benchmarks and a gray eye feature can be brought out in a lot of different ways. It'S so important to keep in mind that eye color is very unique to each client. So if your clients eye color exists outside of these examples, just do your best to use the color wheel to formulate, with its complement, to really bring it out best any time. I'M using this information and consulting with my client, the best advice I've ever been given is to under promise and over deliver with every client. There are gon na be some limitations that exist. That may or may not stop us from creating that perfect end result. It would be really nice in a perfect world to wave our magic tip brush and give our clients exactly what they want, but some limitations that we need to be aware of include the integrity of their hair, the maintenance that that clients can hold and also what They'Re comfortable with achieving in terms today, I have two beautiful, really diverse clients that we can showcase all this information with my first client example is going from blonde to copper. Her natural or starting level is a 7. Her desired level in tone is an 8 9 PG copper. She doesn't have any gray and her texture density combination is fine texture with high density. She does have a bit of grown out highlights in her color history and the integrity of her hair is in a good state. Her skin undertone is warmer influenced and the surface tone is also warm and she has a really great tan. Her eye color is light. Blue and she does have some freckles that create some really pretty unique characteristics. The formula I used on my client at her base is gon na be 8 c 7 sm mix equal parts with 20 volume and that will be melted into 8 c +, 8 r. Om + 9 BM in our demi-permanent line mixed 1 2 with 9 volume activator a couple additional inspirational directions. I offered my client we're utilizing our bronze metallic and gold brown series to create a little bit more of a natural, but still warm blonde. Also utilizing our rose metallics to create a rose gold or mob and results would be really pretty on her as well. My second client will be transitioning from this. Warm ombre application to a cool, brunette soft face frame finish for natural or starting level, is a five hour desired. Level and tone is a level 5 transitioning into a level 6 and a half with a cool tonality. This client doesn't have any gray. Her texture and density combination is medium texture and high density. Her color history includes some previously lifted. Ends that have a warm tonality. The integrity of her hair is good. Her skin undertone has a cooler influence and the surface tone of her skin is a little bit more neutral. Her eye color is a deep, rich brown, with some specks that have a little bit cooler influence to them, based on her unique profile, natural features and preference. The formula I used on this client was our 5 natural ultra ash at her base mix equal parts with 10 volume, and that was melted into 6n. A mix equal parts with 7 na in our demo Conant line with 9 volume activator. There are a couple additional inspirational directions that I offered this client as well. The first is keeping her a little bit lighter all over and utilizing just our rapa toners to cool her off. My favorite combination for her starting point would be our green blue, Rapid toner mixed equal parts with our VP rocket toner. A great summertime option for a client who has these natural features might be maintaining some of their brightness and doing a heavier face frame. We really want to make sure we're cooling these off to complement her well and one of my favorite demi-permanent tonal families to utilize is our ash. Here, taking a look at our strong before-and-afters, you can see we were able to really strategize our formulation and placement to bring out the best features. Each client has taking a look at my first client example. We took her from this really simple, grown-up blonde highlight to this beautiful, vibrant, peachy, copper with my second client. I was able to take her from a warm brunette that really didn't work well with her skin tone and take her to a cooler brunette that brought out her eyes and really complemented her natural features. A really striking feature in my first client before and after is her eye color. If you take a look at her eyes, they're this beautiful light blue green color, and we really brought that out with our copper, PG palette, simplicity and versatility of kenra color made it. So easy for me to create these perfectly customized and results for my clients as a colorist. It'S so important for us to know how to use and identify this information, so we can really create those unforgettable end results for everyone that comes into our chair. To make sure you don't miss out on any of our educational videos, make sure you click the bell and if you want to learn more about camera, color visit the link in the description below