Cosmetology Ch 15- Shampooing/Scalp Care Part 1 (Scalp Treatments, Brushes, Myths)

All right, so we learned about the principles of hair design and now we're going to be getting into actual hair services, so we're gon na be covering in this lecture chapter 15, which is scalp care, shampooing and conditioning. This is going to be one of the shortest chapters. That'S in this section, section 3. So the reason why we talk about shampooing, scalp care and conditioning is because a lot of us are actually not doing this the correct way. I know a lot of students. They think that, oh, why do I have to cover shampooing? I already know how to shampoo my hair and my response back is well. Do you like? Can you explain to me the movements or the no procedures, and some things I think we always forget, is that it almost seems like we know how to shampoo. We don't know how to shampoo the scientific way. One of the services that you will do for your State Board is called the scientific. What is it they call the scientific amp who are the scientific brushing, which also stems from one of red kins old-school sayings treat your hair scientifically. So that's where that came out of so you also want to know if shampooing, because there's different types of shampoos out there, this chapter is going to incorporate a lot of the chemistry that we talked about and what we've learned about, how chemicals work, the basics. We also want to know how to sneeze sorry about that. So we have to know chemistry, but we also want to know people skills, because the shampoo is going to be a big part of how you're gon na sell your services. The book gives you the example of walking in the salon. Taking the time just to you know, experience what you're, seeing so close your eyes. Think about what the song looks like what you hear, what you smell all that the shampoo is gon na, be the first hands-on service that you're gon na get done so after the consultation you're gon na get your his shin hair shampooed. A lot of clients is gon na gauge a shampoo and that's gon na they're gon na gauge of shampoo and that's gon na form their framework of how good the service was. The shampoo can simply make it can make or break a service. It can make a great service and excellent service. It can make a boring service a good one. The shampoo is where they're gon na relax it's where they got their hair manipulated their scalp manipulated. So you want to use the shampoo as an opportunity to relax a client. They claim that shampoo can be as wet as feel as good as a full body massage because of the pressure how you manipulate the scalp. They also say that if the clients are happy with the shampoo experience, they are far more likely to be happy with the entire service, and I can confirm that is true. You'Ll have clients that are very picky they'll. Tell you how they want their hair shampooed. Some clients will tell you. I want cold water. I want hot water as high as you can get it so on and so forth. The book also gives you a side note on an FYI box about how you don't want to talk during the shampoo service, because that's gon na take away from the relaxing experience of it. A lot of us as hairdressers are talkers, and you know if you had a teacher like mine, they might say less talking more working. That'S kind of your cue that when you're with a client you want to be talking while they're getting the hair shampooed unless you're talking back to you, it's like the whole, don't speak until spoken to thing. You also want to let them know what, during the shampoo or like. How is this feel, do you want harder manipulations? Sometimes the client will tell you, oh no, that's too cold. You also want to take the water and test it on your wrist or the back of your hand, because that will tell you how hot it is. Typically, in the back of your hand, if the water is too cold or too hot it'll be way too cold or too hot for the client, so always try to do like a lukewarm water and ask the client how's the water, temperature and they'll say: oh it's Too, you know can't make a little hotter. They might tell you when you're rubbing it like rub harder. You also want to know that this shampoo and the scalp manipulations, especially with scalp treatments. There may be some contraindications, so contraindicated, that's gon na be under test. That means avoiding a procedure or condition that may produce Unruh undesirable side effects for a scout, and in this case this is a scalp massage so for a scalp, massage certain types of illnesses like high blood pressure, which is also called hypertension, diabetes, heart issues, things like That you have to be careful with massage, because if a client has a klutz, a bleeding issue and you over stimulate the scalp, it may cause bleeding under the skin or bruising if they have other notice orders that can cause potentially death and a very serious. You know situation typically during a shampoo you're, not gon na get too much of that. I did have one client that was missing part of her skull because she had like brain cancer, and you got to be careful when you're, manipulating it. She had a soft spot. So you don't to like press it. Usually the client will tell you that, so the book starts off with scalp care and massage, so the two basic requirements for a healthy scalp are cleanliness and stimulation. That will be on your test for the chapter with the massage that you're given for a body massage you'll do similar movements for a scalp massage. So the book will tell you that similar manipulations are given with all scalp treatments, scalp massage also using shampoo there's. Some overlap, scalp treatments should be given with a continuous, even motion that will stimulate the scalp and help to relax a client do not massage or manipulate a client scalp if abrasions are present, because if there's blood that can put you at risk for a blood-borne illness Or even worse, if a client has scabs on their scalp, which is pretty gross and you're overly stimulating, you break those scabs that can cause a lot of pain or if the client doesn't notice that when you go to like perform a chemical service, if you're colouring The heroin damp hair color is very alkaline, pH you're gon na put that in an open wound, it's gon na sting and put them at risk of an allergic reaction, so it says scalp treatments and massage may be performed either. One before shampoo, if scalp condition is apparent or during the shampoo once conditioner, has it been applied to the hair for relaxation. I'M gon na argue this and say that we're doing a scalp treatment like a deep conditioner. The typical procedure is shampoo. The hair treat the hair after you towel blah and then can rinse the you know. Deep treatment out, put a conditioner over it to seal the cuticle that seals a treatment and they give you all kinds of procedures and the difference between your relaxation and a treatment. Massage are the products who use in a treatment massage you're, using a product. That'S gon na treat some kind of condition, so there's special scalp treatments for dandruff through scalp treatments for hair loss that had a special ingredients in it. You want to follow the manufacturers directions with the product. You'Re using some treatments require the hair to be dry, others that require it to be wet. Some may require you, shampoo, the hair and then dry it. This all depends on the treatment you're performing and what products are using, so you want to make sure is. This is another good point when you're studying hair services, you want to know the muscles and location of the blood vessels and nerve points, because you're able to stimulate the scalp appropriately can make the client that much more happier and I've even known people. When you start working in the salon, some states or not some days require, but some states you can't booth rent. So you have to be an assistant for a while when you're insistent. Typically, they have you as a shampooer, which is probably the most stressful thing to do in the salon. For a few years, that's gon na be how you're gon na you know make a lot of tips. Typically, I mean one person that when they would go in the salon and want to go to her specifically, she was able to hit all the nerves, all the muscles and she really gave them a good experience. So normal hair and scalp treatments, the purpose of a general, how scout treatment is to maintain the scalp and hair in a clean, healthy condition. You want to recommend specific scalp treatments after examinations, because certain scalp treatments may be used for moisture. Others may be used to get rid of UM excess oil. You don't want to give someone with a dry scalp, something that's gon na further strip their hair and make the condition worse. So you want to do the hair, scalp analysis and recommended treatment accordingly. If the client does request a treatment at that time, it should be given either before after the shampoo, depending on treatments given. So, for example, um read the manufacturer's directions again. Typically, clients have an idea also of what they want. So if a client comes in - and they say do have something you can get rid of my oil on my scalp, my scalp is itchy, that's gon na be where you want to go or they'll say. Oh, I have dandruff. I want something to get rid of that. You have anything you can give me or a treatment that will guide your service, so the normal hair and scalp treatment is pretty general. They give you the procedure on the back dry, hair and scalp treatment. This should be used when there is a deficiency of natural oil on the scalp and hair. You want to select the proper ingredients, typically for a dry, hair and scalp. You want to be using moisturizing and emollient greedy ins. A Moline is something that's gon na help condition the hair, it's usually an oil-based of some sort, but there's all kinds of products out there all kinds of ingredients you want to avoid the use of strong soaps containing a mineral or sulphonated oil-based greasy preparations or lotions. With high alcohol alcohol content, because this will make the hair a lot worse, if you have dry hair and use a lot of alcohol, what that will do is that's gon na irritate the scalp and actually cause a body to produce more oil as weird as that Sounds likewise using things with a lot of mineral oil that can also clog pores, and I can cause some additional issues during a dry, hair and scalp treatment. A kelp steamer which resembles a hooded dryer is used. Scalp steamers are really big back in the day. They are making a comeback, and you typically use them not just for add and of treatments, but you'll do them for special scalp psoriasis treatments. You use them for accelerating hair color and chemicals. It'S a really cool product to use. So it's it's like the whole idea of something that was there in the past making a comeback. So I think it's pretty cool how they're modernizing this oily hair and scalp treatments. Excessive oiliness is called us by overactive sebaceous glands you're gon na manipulate the hair similar to that of popping a pimple which sounds kind of gross, but that's how it works. You'Re gon na like go in push the hair in like that and that's gon na squeeze. The oil it's hiding those sebaceous glands out of the hair. What this will do is this is going to help get rid of the excess oil - that's hiding in there, but it's also gon na help the glands normalize themselves. If that makes sense, I know it's kind of like weird. The last treatment that they commonly have is the anti dandruff treatment. As we learned dandruff is the overgrowth of the fungus called malassezia. What you would do for a dandruff treatment is used as specialty anti dandruff. Shampoo conditioner and a topical treatment. This is going to contain anti dandruff ingredients such as zinc and all that stuff. What they'll do is the more. If you use this with a moisturizing ingredient, the moisturizer is going to help to unlock some of those dandruff flakes and help them peel off. Because of the ability of fungus to resist treatments, additional salon, treatments and the frequent use of anti dandruff home care should be recommended. This is going to be a selling point for the client you're able to you're gon na be able to retail your specialty salon products because every you know specialty salon product has some kind of anti dandruff treatment. Anti dandruff will use a special tea service, so you'll have something to cure the dandruff, but something to also moisturize the scalp might be dry and irritated. I know that one of the professional treatments out there is called snow blower treatment. It'S really cool, it's really good. If someone has thick dandruff you'll put it on there and you'll use a comb to kind of scrape this the dandruff off on the scallop. It'S actually very satisfying to watch. If you don't have a weak stomach so just to review you're gon na have normal hair and scalp treatments, dry, hair and scalp treatments, oily hair and scalp treatments and anti dandruff treatments. The treatment, the main difference between all of those products used something for a normal hair and scalp treatment is gon na, be something just to you know, maintain the health of the hair you're keeping they're in that healthy condition for oily hair and scalp you're gon na. Do more intense, massage use a product to help eat up some of the oil? Some things you might do for an oily hair and scalp treatment may be to pre brush the hair, stimulate that scalp get some of that oil off there and then, when you shampoo, it you're gon na shampoo it away. Scalp steamers can also help with oily hair and scalp cuz you're gon na cause that um the sebaceous glands get the oil out, so that will help to help this scalp breathe. Next, we're gon na cover a hair brushing so brushing is very important if you're not using any kind of ailment service that might contraindicate that so a hair brushing can stimulate the scalp. It brings blood up to the surface. It nourishes the hair follicles. It can help get excess product out because, when you're brushing you're gon na comb, everything through the hair. So when you shampoo, there's a higher chance of getting everything off your hair that you want to get off so with the UM hair brushing. This also will help you to analyze the scalp properly see if there's any abrasions, if you're brushing in the client says, oh, how something hurts you're able to then peel back the hair and see oh, they had like a bump. We can't go through with taste service. What until it heals things like that are very important, there's two exceptions to brushing you don't want to brush or irritate the scalp before you give a chemical service. So, for example, if you brush the hair before a chemical relaxer, relaxer is a very strong product and you have some microbe regions on there. You'Re gon na put that very caustic chemical in the scalp and they're gon na scream. You also don't want to brush if the scalp is irritated if they have scalp psoriasis or some kind of issue, that's going to be a huge problem, because that can make the service B feel very uncomfortable, brushing massaging or shampooing the scalp before service is not recommended For single process and double this hair color highlighting most chemical relaxers, you want to follow the directions. Some temporary and semi-permanent colors depends on the directions again. If shampooing is recommended to shampoo gently to avoid scalp irritation, one of the most highly recommended hair brushes are those made from natural bristles natural bristles. Have many tiny, overlapping layers or skills which clean and add luster to the hair hair brush is what nylon bristles are shiny and smooth and are more suitable for hair styling? So what that means is that nylon bristles are used for blowouts. One of the best natural sources for natural bristles is the boar brush. This can become a problem if your client is vegan, so you want to make sure if your salon is tire is natural salon. You have an alternative to that, something you can use in place of that, so the boar bristles, they add shine to the hair. So it's great to pre prep, the hair, if your, when you're brushing it through absorbing the oil. One of the issues that Barbra bore brushes is that the brushes might be wooden and technically, even though we use them in the salon. We'Re not supposed to state. The State Board does not recommend them, because you can't clean wood woods porous and it can suck up water, so you can't thoroughly sanitize them. I also want to challenge the point about brushing the hair before a chemical service like color, so one of the things that I've learned - and this is something that you'll learn with continuing education - you can apply color when wet, so you actually can shampoo the hair when It'S damp if you've seen that in studio luma they do that in the episode with the the two episodes. One of them is their great coverage. The other one was the DEM my color one. Some hair colors actually recommend you color the hair on clean, damp hair. So you always want to read the instructions. Also, I recommend doing a mineral removing treatment like Malibu sea before any kind of chemical service, because you're getting the hair clean. Now, in the case of a hair laxer, that would be something you'd have the client do a home? Have them or do it in the salon? Have a client come back in a few days that helps you build money as a professional, but also helps the client. Keep coming back to you because they know that oh, this person's for real I've never had a perm, that's good or relaxed for this good little things like that are important and we're going to talk about hard water in the next section of this. I just wan na give you guys a taste of that. The other important point is to understand the products you're using. So you want to understand the shampoo. The shampoo will give you a chance to analyze a client's, hair and scalp you're gon na feel for certain things. If the client has a heavy build up with this Cotulla or pityriasis tu Toad's, you will feel it being very thick. It almost feels like there have a helmet on their hair and it might have a musty odor. You want to check for conditions such as dried, dehydrated, hair, thinning of the hair, excessive hair left in the sink after shampooing, because that might mean may have some kind of issue going on a dry, tight scalp and oily scalp abnormal flaking of the scalp open wounds Or scalp irritations, scalp disorders and diseases - and this is the grossest thing they've written in here - take our lice-infested, typically you'll, see headlights before you go to the shampoo bowl, but also um. I don't know many clients. It would have a tick infestation unless you're sleeping in a barn, but I guess had to put it to put it. They also recommend using good posture, and I can definitely attest to this. If you do not shampoo right, one of the best shampoos is the stand behind shampoo. So if I'm standing here the shampoos in front of me, I have full range of the client, so I can massage their head. The other shampoo bowls run like this. That can wear my back out and that will wear your body out. So you always want to make sure you're doing good posture freestanding shampoo, bowls allow for a healthier body alignment and they always recommend that for salons it's not always possible. Like my school, you had shampoos over to the side, so it became very tough to fully rinse and shampoo the hair. If salons use assistance, the book recommends, if you're an assistant, I'm telling the head stylist, something might be up and just giving them a heads up on something. There'S an infectious disease. You don't want to treat it in the salon. You just want her further than a physician. As always, the primary purpose of a shampoo is to cleanse the hair prior to a service. This is also a time when you need to educate your client about the importance of home care using high quality products. If the client says, oh, I like to smell that, what did you use? You can explain it to them. Why are you using what you're using and then do a soft sell to recommend that later on to the book also not mentions in their key point? That'S maybe on your test and it's to be effective, a shampoo must remove all dirt oils, cosmetics and skin debris, without adversely affecting either the hair scalp. The scalp and hair need to be cleansed regularly to combat the accumulation of oil and perspiration that mix with natural scales in dirt to create a breeding gown for scalp the disease producing bacteria. So if you never wash your hair about what happens, your hair it matte up, it would almost be like almost be like dreadlocks, not quite like that, because there's a method doing dreadlocks dreadlocks can actually be very clean. If you do them correctly, so your scalp, a doormat up, you get a lot of hair loss because there be a layer of dirt and grime and you might get a scalp infection. That was the issue with the whole trend of the rapid weaves, where people were doing the stocking cap weaves. So the key point in that to know that shampoo, if you do not use shampoo correctly shampoo, can damage your hair. I'Ve had people say well, I don't want to you know color, my hair as it will damage my hair. Although ask is denn my permanent damaging and I'll say yes, but anything is damaging. Shampoo is damaging too high of a heat tools. Damaging pH determines that. So if you use a very harsh harsh abrasive shampoo that can actually make your scalp condition worse and it can destroy your hair at the same time so to whammies for the price of one. You also get the biggest question that a lot of clients ask, and this is where it gets into like a myth. How often do you have to wash your hair, and I don't have an answer for that? My own answer is often as you need it. This is something that's very personal for myself. I get about three to four days without washing my hair, someone else that maybe um too infrequent they might have a too much entirely scalp or they'll have to wash it every other day. I will tell you as professional that washing your hair multiple times in one day is not a good thing that will dry your hair out, that will your tater scalp that will ruin your best color. That will ruin a perm if you have one typically, every other day is fine for most people. So what I'm gon na do is I'm gon na stop. Here, I'm going to come back and we start up again, I'm going to talk about what happens and you over wash your hair and then we're gon na segue into selecting the proper shampoo. How shampoo works in the chemistry of water