Coloring Gray Hair | How To Make Gray Color Last Longer

Today, you guys are in for a little treat a question that you guys always ask in regards to my mature clients, who are always dealing with salt and pepper or great coverage, and you always want to know how to get your grade to last longer. So today my client here is: she has a little bit of gray around the hairline um we did. She was actually my how to define your curls client. This is a long time ago. You guys so she's back, but we're going to be covering her grade today. Um - and i wanted to kind of just give you guys some pro tips on how to care for your hair when you're, covering gray, some pro tips on covering gray um and then we'll talk a little bit about product out at the same time. So what i'm gon na do first, is i'm actually gon na be doing a demi permanent color on her. I do not know where my batteries are for this, but i'm going to get some color mixed up deli. Prominent colors is the next color from semi-permanent and then from semi from semi-permanent you get to permanent. So, really, and truly you guys color is not all created equal, especially when you're dealing with grain, not all hair colors can cover gray, not all hair colors um are suitable for gray. What i say - and it also just kind of depends on the client themselves, their lifestyle, what they do with their hair, what they don't do with their hair, so i'm going to grab some batteries, so i can weigh my color because i need to can't function like That, without weighing my phone, i don't know how people do color without weighing their color. So you guys know how i am when it comes on to professional colors um. The colors that i'm using today is a demi permanent demo. Permanent works very well for natural hair gray coverage, but you also, like i said, have to keep in mind what color line you are using when you are doing your demi-permanent gray colors. So today, i'm using um pravana, which is a professional line. It'S not necessarily one that you can get in stores, but a alternative in a semi-permanent line would be clairol beautiful. What is it called beautiful collection? So they have a great coverage collection, um, it's an advanced gray, it's a little bit more expensive, but it's great for gray coverage. You guys, like very, very good. I will also say it doesn't last as long as a demi-permanent color, but at the same time, if you're trying to stay safe, you don't have the way to get to a professional right now, then you can definitely utilize that you'll just have to do the color. A little more often semi-permanent colors can be applied as often as you like and semi-permanent colors are also those that can be applied to natural or relaxed hair. So i'm getting my color mixed up here. So i'll tell you a little bit with pravana so pravana for optimal grade coverage. They recommend using 10 volume, 10 volume or zero, lift. You can use either or um, and that's just some pro stuff because you guys are elite pros right. So i always tell you guys that i'm going to teach you guys things that pros won't necessarily teach you. So in this case, i'm going to be using the pravana line today, and it is a demi-permanent colors typically require a part, a and a part b mixed together for them to work same as permanent colors. How you differentiate, demi and permanent demi permanent is typically a 0 to 10 volume, depending on the company. Permanent colors can be 10, 20, 30, 40 or 50 volume, and in some countries they make 60 volume as well. I don't recommend anything past a 10 volume if you're trying to cover gray, it's not required 10 volume is literally going to slightly open the cuticle and deposit that color now, just because you color gray hair. That does not mean that the color won't fade. That does not mean that the color is permanent, and that does not mean that you can't get rid or you can't regrow your gray, hair back. Okay gray hair grows as a natural color. It is not a color. You can get rid of okay, all right. So what we're going to do is we're going to start with our shampoo for my client, so i'm going to bring you guys down here now she is natural, so i don't know she's natural um. We are going to do her shampoo first, she does. You have oil on your hair too. You have a product on here, so she has some product build up on her hair. I can feel it. It feels oily so because i'm going to be doing a silk press today, i am going to dry shampoo, her first and you guys know there is a product called dry shampoo and then there's a shampoo that you're putting on the hair when it's dry. That is what i'm going to be doing, i'm going to be putting the elite clarify on her hair when it's dry. Now, if you guys notice, i'm using a lot of shampoo, yes, because the hair is dry and the hair is not going to get saturated with the shampoo because there's no water to carry it. So really. My goal is just to help extract a lot of those oils. Okay, that is the goal. The good thing about the elite clarifies it doesn't strip the hair of all its natural oils, but what i'm doing is i'm helping to strip some of that oil? That is on the hair that feels like product buildup. The reason why i'm doing that now is because, if i go to silk press her - and i still i go ahead and just add that water to her hair, we know that oil and water doesn't mix and that oil is going to sit on her hair and It is going to be very heavy at process, um so press time. So this is what i call a dry, shampoo, okay. So now that that's on i'm gon na go ahead and wet the hair down. Now the water was cool right yeah. I wet her hair down with a little bit of cool water, cool water, solidifies oils, hot water melts oils. So the reason why i put the cool water on there instead of hot water, just to help lather up the clarifying shampoo, is because i want the oils to solidify, so they will rinse right out on this shampoo okay, so i only use a little bit of Water, that is a pro tip for you guys when you dry shampoo, your hair with elite clarify just put a little bit of cold water, so you can lather the hair up after the fact and then you're going to rinse it all out now with warm water. So this is going to start it's kind of like you can do it as a pre-treatment. This is not like our soothing balance dry itchy treatment. This is just to cleanse the hair of any excess oil. Okay. So all i'm doing is rinsing her hair, we're in friendships. Now, if you guys can't tell she's, also fine in texture, okay, she has fine textured hair. So i am going to actually be using the empress collection on her today because she has that fine texture here and i want to strengthen her hair and prepare her for this hair color. Now, if you had low porosity hair, that was medium of course texture. Then you can still use your moist repairs. That'S not going to change okay, so we're going to take some of the empress collection. That'S this one! This is amina, which is a strengthening shampoo, a sulfate free, strengthening shampoo with horsetail butter good morning. Those of you who are just joining if you're new to elite hair care - please don't forget to thumbs up as you come in close your chat and go hit that thumbs up button. For me that tells youtube how we're doing so. I'M going to use our scalp agitator. This helps to stimulate that blood flow. It also helps to detangle the hair. It'S very soothing too. It feels good on the sky. It takes away every itch, but at the same time it's stimulating that blood flow. So now, if you're going to do any form of deep conditioning, i recommend doing your deep conditioning treatment before you. Do your color okay, so you want to get all of the washing out of the way. If you're going to do a deep conditioner, you want to do that before you do your color reason being is hair color does not like to be added to any additional processes like deep conditioning or shampooing. There'S a difference between trying to get the excess color off and there's a difference between doing a full on wash in her case. If you are going to do any form of deep conditioning, you want to do that before you do your hair color! So what i'm going to do is i'm actually going to add some of the neffer tidy hair potion to my color mixture, so my color is already mixed and has begun oxidizing. So i'm going to take some of my nephew tidy and drop some of that in there. This is just going to help to keep the hair strengthened all at the same time as the color. You guys know i'm big on cocktails. Okay, so my color is fully ready. It has begun oxidizing so now we're going to put it directly on her hair. While it is wet what i recommend, whenever you are going to do, hair color, you want to make sure that you towel dry, your hair. First, you do not do any form of demi, color or semi color to stopping wet hair. Some semi permanent color companies tell you to dry the hair as much possible even with a blow dryer before you apply that color, because it works like a magnet and it one attracts the other. So negative, ion or negative attracts positive. That kind of thing. So a lot of these companies will also tell you to put your color on dry hair. I like to do my wash process first, because i know great coverage can be very stubborn and if i wash the hair after the fact, i'm going to diminish the life of that color all right. My little sit up for me and i'm going to have you sit in my chair? Okay, yes, all right, so we're gon na go over to my styling station and we are going to apply her color just making sure i wash out my bowl here all right. I got my gloves, so you definitely want to make sure you're wearing gloves very important, especially with hair color. It stains you guys, hair color stains all right, so i'm going to move the camera around just a little bit, so you guys can join us over here. All right, so my client's hair is towel dry. You see that the hair is not dripping with water. Whenever you are applying gray or coverage for gray hair, you want to also make sure that you apply it to the stubborn areas first. So i'm going to put it right here where she has that focal point of silver streaks right here in the front. So i wanted to start processing there and i wanted to be there the longest. That is how great coverage is successful, applying it to the area where you have the most stubborn gray. First, if you guys notice i'm using a brush to apply my color and i'm not just squeezing the color on her head when you're dealing with gray, you want to be as precise as possible because it is so easy to miss. Hair you'll think that you have color all over your head and you really have none in the area that you needed when you part your hair, all you see is gray hair, so i always like to put it around the perimeter first. The reason why i do the perimeter first is because that is the part that the eye sees first, like your eye, does not see anything other than your edges. You don't even know that you have an entire head of gray in the back of your head. All you care about is the fact that it's in the front - and you can see it so you know that the world can see it and then once i do that area, i part the hair down the middle and apply it to the stubborn part, which is Right in the crown okay, so i'm actually going to put this color all over her hair, but i'm starting with the roots first, because that is the most stubborn. That is where you definitely need the coverage. That is where the color diminishes first, and if you guys notice, i'm laying my color on thick, i'm putting it on thick. Okay, you want to make sure that the hair lays down. So when you're coloring hair, especially gray hair you're, going to treat it like. If you were trying to kill a spider spiders are not the easiest insect to kill. Who can tell me why a spider is not the easiest insect to kill, especially if you are using um, repellents or sprays. Tell me why: why do you think a spider is one of the more complicated insects to kill without squishing it all right. I'M gon na give the viewers a second and give everybody a second to tell me why are spiders the most complicated, and this goes with hair color, so you're gon na understand. Why i'm asking this question in just a moment. Nobody i'll give you five more seconds. It'S real simple, you're, just overthinking it. Why are spiders the most complicated insect to kill with product? It has no nose. No that's not it. They have thick skin. No, that's not it. They don't breathe. Nope, that's not! It. Spiders are the most complicated insect to kill with product because their actual body doesn't touch the ground. Their legs touch the ground, so a spider's body is up here. That'S like our two feet. Our body is up here. They have legs, so their legs are the only thing that touches and they're, not absorbing anything. Their body is up here. Everything to absorb is up there, so i want you to think about gray hair. When gray hair sticks off of the head, when gray hair sticks off of the head, so it sits off of the head and it's not touching hair color that gray hair is not going to absorb any color because it's sticking off of the head. It'S sitting up. This is why i say you want to over saturate your gray, because the goal is to make it so heavy with product that it has no choice but to lay into the actual color. If the color is not touching the follicle, the follicle is not going to get covered. That is why i use the spider, because the spider does the same thing. His body does not touch the ground. The only way to really do that is to make sure that their body gets into the product. Did i just trick everybody did i just give everybody some some national, geographic, okay, okay, national geographic news. This is why, when you're, trying to catch spiders at home, they use sticky traps that are very thick because once the spider walks in it, their legs get caught and they have to lay down because they're trying to get their legs out. Yes, okay, all right! I just gave you all some free national geographic news. I just told you the whole free 99 of how to get rid of the spider. That'S in your house, okay, yeah sure you guys welcome. Can i can i get some purple and blue hearts. For that analogy? Can i give some purple and blue hearts please purple and blue hearts? So if you guys notice, as i'm applying her color you'll, see me still go back over the areas that i've already covered with the brush, even though i know that i've already covered those areas, i'm not adding more color, i'm just making sure that i'm doing my Due diligence for that gray, hair to lay in that color, thank you guys all right. So now we're going to go to the back here so with great coverage, you guys you want to make sure that you saturate well! This is another reason why you see me doing her roots first and not the ends. The ends will easily color because they have been colored before the roots are brand new and extremely stubborn, so they are going to be the ones that need the most tlc. The most work and the most time to process so you guys know that we are formulating a violet based shampoo to help tone out those negative yellows and all those unwanted colors in your gray hair. So i'm super excited about that part too. Thank you guys for the hearts. Thank you. Thank you. Thank you. If you guys notice, i'm using, like, i said, a bowling brush, i'm not using a bottle because the bottle is not going to get that color all over the hair and i'm not going to be able to control where it is. And you can't see where you're placing it with the bottle because you're just pushing it through the hair all right, so my little phone here is about to die, so y'all hold on a second plug this out, plug it in over here hold on you guys. I don't want my girl to to die here, so you guys hold on. I don't know how i'm gon na get this over here. Let me make sure it's charging. It is all right good, so we're back in business. I got ta get one of those super long course. I don't know 20 foot charger cord all right, so we have applied to her roots now we're gon na go through and how i like to apply gray to my client's ends. I like to comb it through. So i take a wide tooth comb. I use this one. Actually, this one isn't super wide, but it's wide enough and i'm just going to go through her ends first and work. My way up now you can use a wider mama, hey baby. Do me a favor? Oh watch your head. You see that black comb in the bowl give me that black comb for me it's inside the bowl, no, no in the sink anything it's a comb in there. It'S a black comb like a wide tooth comb right behind the sink. No, no! Where you were on the tower yeah, you see a black white tooth that one yeah thank you mama all right, so i'm gon na go through and just comb through her hair gently. If your hair is not detangled. This is not the easiest thing to do so. You can just comb through the roots, but how i like to distribute color is to comb through the hair, while i'm combing through the hair, because i'm also making sure that i'm getting that color on all the strands as well. And then i'm pulling it through to her ends. That is how much color is already on her hair. So that's another reason why i say you don't have to start with the ends. First guys start with the roots and work your way out and then whatever doesn't have any color. You can go back and add some more color to it, so it's kind of serving two purposes at once, all right. So now what i'm gon na do now remember. This is a demi color. You do not color it cover this with um color codes. You can cover her hair with plastic, meaning a processing cap. You do not do that. Okay, then, my permanent colors do not need a processing cap, they are open air processing and they do not go under the dryer either. This is open air processing alexa set timer for 30 minutes now, depending on the company that you're using great coverage changes in time. So not every company processes for the same amount of time, so you want to follow the manufacture specifications whenever you are dealing with the processing time for color took back for me now. I want you guys to see what i'm doing you see, how i'm taking all this excess color that i have left and i am smudging it into her hairline. My reason for that is so that her hair will not pop out or off the head. I want it to be so heavy that the hair has no place to expand. So that's why i'm taking that excess color that i have left over, applying it everywhere. Okay and then we're going to take this and we're just going to pin her hair up here. Now, i'm going to show you guys, one more pro tip, so i'm going to take my gloves off, and this is a pro tip for those of you that are covering your gray. All you need to do is if you don't have any saran wrap and i don't feel like searching for mine right now. That'S what i'm going to use this and show you guys a trick anyway. You'Re gon na take a processing cap. Remember these are super cheap. You guys super duper, cheap, take a processing, cap cut the elastic okay and then you're gon na open the cap up open it up. Okay, and what you're gon na do? Is you take the processing cap and smudge it around her hairline? So all you're doing is opening the cap and using color that's already on her head and smudging it around or pushing it into the color on her head now. This is because the hairline is usually the most stubborn. So what this is going to do is this is going to force that hair to stay down while the color is processing. So all of her hair is touching the hair color. But if you notice, i didn't cover everything i just wanted to cover those resistant places which is typically the front of the head and then use that as a barrier, so that her hair cannot lift up off of her head. I got ta stop using the term popping off because it's a negative connotation okay, so i'm just pushing it in and that's a pro tip that is going to make sure that your hairline stays smudged into the hair color. That is the easiest way to make sure that your gray coverage is on point. If you guys notice, i just set the timer for 30 minutes, because this is going to process for 30 minutes. I'Ve already taken about 10 minutes to apply it so technically it started started processing about 10 minutes ago. So it's really going to be processing on her for 40 minutes. I hope you guys got some really good deets from this video. You guys know. I love to give my pro tip videos. Let me just sit right there for me. Okay, i love to give my pro tip videos, because i want you guys to learn how to apply your colors when to apply your colors. That kind of thing um and then of course, like i said whatever color line you use, you want to make sure that that color line you use their manufacturer specifications, don't try to make up your own stuff. Okay, when it comes on the chemical processing, i'm very funny try to stick to that, especially color. Color is not created equal based on company each one has its own makeup and its own rules. So, just because i'm processing her today for 30 minutes, another line might say 55. Another line might say 15. Another line might say 10.. So you follow what that line says and another reason why i don't recommend you guys doing professional color at home, because you wouldn't even know where to find the instructions but technically a professional product. The instructions is inside the box, so you have to tear the box open and it's printed on the inside of the box, but that's just another pro tip for you guys, but, like i said, i hope you guys enjoyed today's video, a more infomercial type of video. If you're new to my channel, don't forget to hit that subscribe button, and also don't forget to comment down below any techniques that you might want to share with others sharing is caring. You guys it doesn't hurt to share it's not going to take anything from anyone else. Um. I asked about the lavender shampoo. If i said that correct it's, not we don't call it lavender shampoo. We call it purple toning shampoo, it's purple purple tones out yellow. So if you look at the color wheel, we have our primary colors. We have red, we have yellow. We have blue right, whatever color is directly across from that color on the color wheel is the canceling color so directly, across from yellow on the color wheel? Is purple purple will cancel yellow directly across from red on the color wheel is green, they can cancel each other directly across from blue on the color wheel is orange. They can cancel each other, so that is how we understand color correction, when we are dealing with hair color but, like i said you guys enjoy your friday, i will see everybody later i'll try to get back on when i'm done with my client processing. So you guys can see the finished result, but don't forget to subscribe thumbs up and for all of the products go to elitehaircareusa.com peace out.