Cutting Techniques For Hair Extensions

Hey i'm bernard with onstage hair extensions. We'Re going to talk about the cut! Listen! You can make a haircut as complicated as you want. You can watch tons of youtube videos with all these weird cutting techniques. I like to kind of break it down, keep it simple to start with, and then you can advance from there if you like, but i'm just going to be using a pair of scissors and a pair of thinning, shears sure a razor does a great job on Cutting and blending hair extensions, but most people are taught or at least know how to use scissors or shears whatever you want to call them and thinning shears or thinning scissors, and i'm gon na go through five simple steps: five simple areas: sometimes you don't need the Last two steps in this haircut, but i'm gon na go over each one. I won't be doing them in detail because most of her hair is already cut, but i just want to show you what we do. First thing we do is step. One part the hair in the center and the back so look. We parted her hair straight up. The center she's got wefts and strands in. So it's not going to look like a perfectly straight clean part, but i did run my finger right up the back separated it brought it to the front. So here in the front, what happens is if the hair from the center in the back travels the furthest? It'Ll be the longest right in the middle, so when i pull the hair into the back, it's going to already have this natural arc to make it look really natural. Also, the client is always saying, cut my hair here and they can't point to the back of their head or the back of their back, so they usually do something in the front up here. So they look here. They look in the mirror. They try to figure it out and then, when they're, when you're getting ready to cut it, you just want to make sure their chin is here because they're tempted to look down at it and it changes all of the angle of the hair. And so when i go to cut, i just want to make sure she's straight forward. I get in this area and right before i go to cut, i block the mirror on accident and she can't see herself anymore, so she tries to look down so right before i cut a check right here to make sure she's here and then i come in Here and i cut this length as straight across as i can, with a little bit of a point cut, you can kind of cheat this pull it all together and in one section cut this one length like this. Now, when i say cut one length, i just mean some kind of point: cutting jagged cutting razor it thinning shears. You don't want a real sharp line, but you want a general idea of the length that they pointed out and then, when you pull it around to the back watch, what happens? I'M going to pull it to the back turn it around and you can kind of see that it's going to be a little bit longer in the center and a little shorter through here, because it will naturally give that little natural arc. Because these pieces travel to shorter distance in the front, so they get cut just a little bit more. The further distance preserves a little bit of length, so the next thing we're going to do is blend the sides. I'M going to call it step two and we're going to take a technique that is interesting. We'Re going to um we're going to cut hair deep, deep in the scissor right here when you move this scissor a little bit here wide open about a half inch movement. Here is about a 1 8 inch movement here when you close the scissor and get closer to the end, you're the same distance from the axis of the scissor here. So a little bitty movement here is a big movement here. So the point i'm making is that if you open the scissor wide, which looks real, aggressive and dangerous, it is not because a big movement is a tiny movement here. So what i'll do is i'll start to blend these sides and i think you'll be able to see better if i do this side first, what i'm going to do is just grab some hair here and she might already have some shorter hairs and i want to Start to blend some more now i have learned if i open wide - and i come in like this yeah - that's what happens that face gets a little scared, so i do tend to start here open wide behind those eyeballs and come in like this. So she doesn't see it and then i start to cut little bitty hairs like this and i'm going to do a couple of different angles. So you guys can possibly see big and wide, and i cut just a few hairs at a time to start to blend. This side, all of the way down, i can follow a few different senses. I am not just going by what it looks like i can feel one or two or three hairs getting cut. I can feel that crunch. I can kind of hear it and i can see it so i'm kind of using everything at the same time when i'm doing this i'm going in and i'm sure you can't hear it, but she can hear it and we can feel it and we can see It and i'm wondering if there's an angle that would make this easier to see. Let me try another angle here, just so you guys can kind of see what's going on here now that was done with scissors. You can also play it. A little safe use. Just two or three teeth: deep in the texturizing shear and just kind of kind of come down that whole side just using two or three teeth, or just the tip of your tool and cut some hairs. This is a little safer. You don't have to be as skilled to do this or you can do like me, and you can do a little bit of both i'll do a little texturizing on each side, as i'm going down here on the sides just to kind of add to the blending And that gives me a good blend around the front, so i've got one step. One was the length step two is to blend around there and then step. Three is the same technique. I did around the front, but it's over the top. So now it's going to be over the top of this hair blending. I think it's actually going to be better if i turn it around the other way. So if i go over the top of her hair - and this would be a whole bunch of different sections - let me switch tools here. I like to start in the center, where the hair's, the thickest on the sides it's going to start to be a little thinner because of the client's ears and less hair on the back of the head. There'S just a lot more hair going on. So, let's play it safe and start where the hair is the thickest in the center. In the back, and if i stick my fingers in here and grab a section of hair, i can feel on top of her head till i get down to where that top extension is and grab the client's hair. And you can see where it's supposed to blend and then i can see the extensions have no layers underneath that. So if i start right, there lay the scissors down like this and that same technique cutting just a few hairs. I'M just cutting a few over the top like this. To give it some layers takes out so little hair and what i'll do is not even need a comb most of the time when i do that, so i'll just move over a little bit and take another section, and i already know the spot that i need To start doing it, but with this good color blend, i almost need to check a few times just to kind of double check, i'm in the right place and start to layer over the top like this right on down to the end, i'm not going to bore You with doing every single section, all the way around we'll finish her haircut after the shoot, but i'm going to show you the next two steps, because that was step two one two and three and we're gon na go into four and five next. So, as i start to blend this top, it starts to really look nice and the reason for that is. You know how somebody's hair might frizz a little bit with the humidity. Well, if you don't have all those ends, kind of add all the different levels, it won't frizz the same she's always got new hairs growing in so you've got lengths ending in all different places. So when her hair frizzes up from any humidity, not that we want frizz, but when it does, we want it to frizz equally down here or at least blend equally, when those little ends pop out. So those were the first three steps. Now. What we're gon na do is move into step four and five four, you kind of gave you a little bit of a clue of where it is i'll. Give you a little clue it's where her hair meets the extensions. If i still see a little bit of a line here, i've layered from there down - maybe it's her hair - that is too thick now, if you did the step one in putting extensions in and you thinned out all her ends, this step is usually not as necessary, But it's a good place to check what i do is i take and adjust three or four sections around here i'll, take her hair above the extensions, and you see there's the top of the extensions right there. Her top row of extensions there's no blend problems. Now because i took the problem away. The problem is here: that's where that hair falls on top and possibly doesn't blend. So what i do is, i pick it up and the problem is either going to be at one end of the section or the other. Sometimes i'll, lay it down and see. Is it the top section or is it the bottom and in this case it's a little bit more at the bottom? So what i'll do is i'll pick this up and it's the bottom that needs texturizing on those ends more than the top, so sure i might texturize that top too, but maybe there so i'm doing two things, i'm point cutting with thinning shears or texturizing shears or Whatever you want to call them, so some people would be cutting across to me. That'S still even a line, it's just a dotted line, so i say to take two techniques: take a point cut and a thin and sheer, and so you're doubling up on your texture technique and mostly focusing at the bottom. So what that does it starts to soften her hair, where it blends in and i'll take another section here, and we could work around this whole top if we needed to by just taking a little bit of the old and a little of the new, and you Can kind of see where it's a little thicker here, that's the ends that we're going to soften and then go through all of this, and we can do as much or as little as we need to, and then that makes this so wispy that it just doesn't Show a line in there when it blends. I would take that all the way around on both sides again to keep this video shorter. I'M going to go into my fifth step and i'm going to pick up a different tool. Nope, i'm going to use the same tool and i'm going to take these ends when we cut the length. I think this is going to be better. I'M going to take this length and i want to get a section that cuts through all the way through from the top to the bottom. It doesn't matter how thick it is, but i want to see every row of extensions strands wefts whatever it is. I want this very wide section to be collapsed down into a section that fits into my fingers. So what i'll do is i'll push this section down to fit into my fingers like this and as i comb it out, i'm looking at these very very ends. Where is the bluntness that's down here it's hard to see because this hair falls over it. So what i learned a long time ago is that, as i pull this section out, if i use gravity on my side turn it sideways, then i can see all of the ends and it's usually the very bottom section that needs to be thinned a little bit More because all these top sections that i can cut a little bit more, they kind of got cut when we're cutting the length when we were layering over the top. All these other techniques we're starting to soften them, and if i look down at the bottom here and i decide wow that looks a little thick, i'm just going to chop chop chop with thinning shears. I end up thinning sections that don't need to be thinned and the thick sections at the same time, so instead i was pulling it up like this one time and i noticed that thick section at the bottom as i'm combing it like this, i pull it out. I start to get about right here and i see at the bottom, like you guys, like there's the thick section, but as soon as my comb got through it covered it up, and i was like, oh man. How am i gon na get that and then it just? I don't know if i accidentally did it, but as i turned it like this, i could see wow okay. This is all blending pretty good, sometimes i'll go in there and fix it a little or i'll say. Oh, i could thin that a little bit, but here's where the really big problem is that bottom section is peeking through and making. It look really really thick on the ends and that's the only section that needs to get thinned. So then, i don't end up with too thin of hair down at the bottom. I just end up with something that looks a little more natural and so i'll. Do that two or three times at the bottom and that'll make our ends, look natural. We got it here, so five, simple steps cut the length in the front two frame, her face, three that same face framing technique, take it around the whole top and then four is her ends and five is the extension ends. Go through those techniques before you pre-judge. What it looks like and then go back and look at it and most of the time it'll look great, give it a try. You