How To Cut & Style A Very Short Pixie Haircut For Women | Perfect Cutting Techniques

Short convex Slayer on her that when I get around the hairline, I'm sort of starting to make things a bit more short to long. We want to keep all the edges of this pretty soft and then have it hug the head everywhere else: Kylie bussing. She is the one who did the color and the inspiration for the haircut that she showed me was actually like a buzz cut, but we didn't want to take it all the way down. So I wanted to hug the head like a buzz cut and put hug the head, but then have those soft edges so really just kind of pivoting. Through the top made my first guide right down the center working out. This she's got a very serious cowlick. Her whole head is basically a cowlick yeah. Look, it looks like all the edges of the hairline are quite jumpy, so that makes sense that you want to keep them a little longer and softer. I guess it's either that or scissor over comb. I debated doing scissor over comb and doing it dry, but I felt like the top was going to be really hard to control it pushes forward and was going to be hard to pick up. So I'm doing as much as I can in my fingers and then we'll probably dry. It kind of flat, wrap it and and do some overcome stuff to refine. So I'm trying to use my wide teeth to keep the tension. You know as light as possible yeah. I was just going to ask you about that. It looks like Aaron's. Hair was obviously pre-lightened and toned. It'S like a beautiful lavender color. I don't know if you know the formulas, I do um. This is a very complicated formula here. It'S 10 V. It'S done being a little bit of clear, actually from uh Goldwell colorants and I think the initial formula we use had a couple drops of cool violet, pure pigments in it, and then we actually just came back and did her base one more time. Our ends they've been processed a couple times, so they're grabbing a little bit more, so we did two passes on the base and one pass uh through the ants. So if you're just joining us we're here with Jacob Khan, we are in Amsterdam, uh and we're here for the cow Salon, Global Experience, which is a two-day event where here at prep, you can see, there's a lot of fabulous things going on and we'll be bringing You tons of content over the next few days, but since Jacob was prepping, we thought hey. Let'S get the man cutting some hair alive. Let us know where you're watching from uh. You know this is obviously a little bit of an early start for our friends in North America because we are on European time uh. But let us know where you're watching from. If you have any questions, I'm going to jump on here and look for your questions and your shout outs so we're just still pivoting through I've worked out one panel through the top I'm coming back to the center and pivoting to the other side. You know I've always sort of had issues with balance. It'S always been hard for me. It can come very naturally being able to make things balance on both sides. So if I end up doing an entire side, I end up with one side long one side short. So I usually like to work a bit of a panel come back and do the other side and work kind of back and forth. Usually I end up a little bit more balanced that way work it over my fingers, because I want a rounded shape generally. If I'm working Palm to Palm like this I'll, get something a little bit more square a little flatter, but I want this to hug the head. So if I'm working over my fingers, it's easier to just accent that round shape of her head that way. Yeah! It'S such a great little uh tip there. If you can, you can see how the fingers actually Bend when you're over the fingers and they're so much flatter when they're inside. So, as you work from the center out, are you trying to build any weight towards the rounds of the head? Is there any over Direction, I'm using a traveling guide, so I'm over directing just to my previous section here, really just trying to match the shape of the head. So, even if I'm like picking things up, I'm trying to make sure that my last comb, like let's say I pick up this way, I'm trying to comb towards my guide before I cut so I'm naturally pulling everything just to the previous to the center there. So we'll get a little bit longer a little bit more weight in the corner, so tell us a little bit about what you're going to have uh what you're going to be doing at the event this weekend at the Cow Salon, Global Experience, what's uh, what's your Role well, I'm on the education stage, doing an artist session with Kylie bussing where I'm cutting and she's presenting some color and there's. You know a huge kind of on-stage presentation, but there's also a show floor where you have a lot of different things going on. You have different brands with different booths. You have different media sort of booths as well, where you're going to have live streams, you're going to have interviews and all sorts of stuff happening, and then you have a center stage there, where you have different artists from all over all over the world, presenting different Cuts and colors, so I have two different sessions tomorrow, one at 11 30 and I believe, one at 2 30.. So if you're watching the live stream or if you're going to be here in person, you can come check us out at either one of those times. Yeah, if you go to uh Council on division on Instagram, you can learn all about the YouTube live stream. So, even if you're, not here in Amsterdam, you'll be able to watch on YouTube and I'm proud to say there's one other part to the event. It'S a competition, oh yeah, so it's a global competition with hairdressers from all over the world. Who'Ve gone through their local National process to come here and present. Their looks to be judged to be the uh, basically the winner of the year. Who then goes on to work on all sorts of projects with Goldwell and I'm honored to be one of the judges this year? So My Dance card is full I'll, be hanging out with all these Educators and then running over to do some judging yeah, I got. I got second place in this competition twice, so I decided to stop entering. I was like I'm done first or nothing for me, but now I'm happy to be here presenting you know. This is probably the shortest look that I'm going to present this weekend. I'M working on some curly hair tomorrow that I'm really excited to show and we're really one of the things that I've been working into our classes, as we tour around, is how to cut wavy and curly hair in a way that you can wear it wavy and You can wear it straight, so I'll be showing how to work Softly on dry hair, so you're working with the texture of the wave. But then it's very versatile. It can go curly or straight. I think that's a great concept and I I I follow you. Obviously, as hundreds of thousands of people do and I I think that came from people constantly asking you can, can you wear it straight straight. Tell us a little bit about that. Absolutely yeah people uh! You know have the nerve to question my methods, especially some 12 year olds, on Tick, Tock or something we're doing that, but I I really wanted to lean into it really because of that, that's a that's a great Point. People are constantly asking. Can I wear this straight? Can I wear it curly and I see a lot of people cutting curly hair with silhouette cutting techniques, which I think is great. I love that I love like geometric shapes kind of curly hair, but then, if you're the kind of person that goes back and forth curly and straight, it doesn't really like lend to that ability very much so uh Ben White uh, my co-worker, who I travel around With and teach with, we worked out our own way of um sort of working in soft carved lines. Working with small C shapes. Every little cut is a little mini c-shaped cut so that, even if we're building very particular round shapes when it blows out rather than having that sort of tetrisy Edge on it, it's always going to have a soft Edge. So we finished uh through the top here. We'Re gon na cross check, so we worked vertically or you know what a profile section. I never know what to say about this section. What would you call that Gerard? Is this vertical or is this vertical because well it's one of those uh. What came first, the chicken or the egg? Yes, yes, it really depends on your perspective, if you're standing on the side, it's vertical, if you're standing on the back, it's horizontal, so my perspective for my cross check right now is going to be horizontal. We were vertical and we're coming back horizontal now I can agree with that and I think you know little things like that are what keeps our craft so interesting for those of us who've been doing it for years. It'S there's! No new uh arguments. There yeah I've heard that same argument for 32 years and it you know at a certain point. It can get mature enough that you just kind of go well I'll, call it whatever you want as long as you can understand it I'll call it whatever you want. I can be whatever you want me to be baby, so yeah. This is looking pretty good A little bit of cleanup here. If I was to see anything that looked really off, maybe that it was a real bit longer, rather than a simple little check. I'D go back and kind of the original way. I don't want to change the shape that I put in so, but we're looking pretty good. So, let's introduce our viewers all over the world to our model. This is Aaron Aaron, correct yeah. This is Aaron Aaron. Are you from here in Amsterdam or I live in Manchester in the UK? Ah, okay, so you're here just for the show yeah fantastic, yeah yeah. Have you done this type of event before yeah? This is my fifth one, with Goldwell or with different companies. So then, you tell all the other girls what what to expect and how it's going to go. There'S one lunches: the Mother, Dan mother hen, yeah yeah, I got ta get old, say when lunches we've got to be ready for lunch. Yeah. We don't want anybody, we don't want anyone, fainting right, yeah, I'm sure you've seen that before it all starts with the model. So for you Jacob, when you met Aaron um, how did you read her hair analyze, her hair? It was obviously already short, but a lot goes into understanding. You know how you're going to execute yeah. I mean the first thing that I noticed when I saw her in person lucky enough to see her in a picture beforehand. We can kind of decide and plan what we want to do before we actually got um here to Amsterdam. When I saw her in person, I could really see that as their hair dried, I'm assuming it was an air dry. At the time all the corners pushed back. Everything lifted up every little bit lifted up, so I actually consulted with uh Sona Brado over there. If you guys know who she is oh well, we'll be live with Sana tomorrow for her International fans. Yeah Sana is absolutely amazing. So I I talked with her a little bit to decide about how I wanted to approach it. Did I want to cut it wet or did I want to cut things dry and if I was um cutting things dry in the beginning, I've I thought. Maybe I would do that, but working dry. I was afraid that I wasn't going to be able to control the hair on the top very much because it was really hard to pick up. It pushes forward really really dramatically so having the hair wet. Just helps me control after the hair also kind of swells, and so sometimes when it's dry, it's hard to get it in the comb exactly it was. It was difficult to pick up difficult to control with my fingers when it was dry, so I ended up deciding to do it wet. For that reason. So now I've worked through the top. I'Ve got my guide section here through the top, so I've pivoted through I'm starting now in the corner and just working diagonally forward, and I see the movement of her hair. It really wants to to move forward like that, besides this last little section here. So I'm just trying to work with how the natural movement of her hair is still just following the shape of the head, as we go think about this being a bit of a layer and on the side I always feel like my it's a little easier body Position to work this way than it is for me to work like this still over my fingers, so I'm switching to Palm to Palm now working slightly diagonally forward. Checking my guide there at the top, where I've got that short bit and then just connecting still thinking about it being layered. I want this to get a little longer towards the front hairline, so we're keeping that kind of fringy and soft feeling there in the front. Hairline, so are you angling longer to the hairline or is your cutting line kind of just square and letting it just build length as the head curves away? I'M basically Square not wanting to angle my fingers out too much because I don't want to get you know too heavy through here. I just want to have that natural kind of softness that um you know, working with the head shape, will give you so tell us a little bit about um, what's happening in your salon now I know that uh you're, also a salon manager, Jessica and our floor Manager Kristen, they handle basically everything for me when I'm not there. It took me a long time to get comfortable delegating out the rolls I was very you know, micromanagy afraid of being away afraid of letting someone else do things. So I was, you know: burning the candle at both ends: I'd be traveling, taking clients Tuesday through Tuesday through Saturday for a long time. Then I would fly out Saturday night class on Sunday and Monday and then we'd come back and have uh clients again on Tuesday. So now I've, let myself come out of the salon a little bit taking clients Wednesday through Friday, and I have my team there kind of holding down the board we've also added in a rental model as well. So we have commission people and we have renters. We just opened a brand new space. We went from 2500 square feet to 4 500 square feet in the same building. We just moved upstairs. There was like a software company that was upstairs above us that had this incredible gorgeous space in a historic building in my town, and it was just such a waste of the stunning space so as soon as they moved out, I knew that's what I wanted to Do I wanted to get in there and take that space over a big thing's happening for you and, as I always say, you know, Salon ownership is the most difficult job in this industry, all right, it's so hard. It feels like vacation to you right now. Oh, for sure I mean this is these: are the moments that I really love? Of course I love the mentorship in the salon. I love working with clients still, but when I'm just getting to kind of casually work on models and do creative work, it's definitely and just talk about hair with a bunch of other hair, nerds yeah for sure. So I'm doing the same thing on the other side. Now I've got my guide here from the corner: that's where I stopped doing those pivoting sections to the top. I'M just going to take these diagonal forward. Sections now shout out to Maddie Krupa who's, agreeing with you that cutting this type of hair needs to be cut, wet first, then checked and dry refined, which is sounds like that's your game plan. Absolutely. I definitely know I'm gon na have a bit of dry refinement. Not only is your hair very fine, which is going to show every little line in her hair as I cut, but it's very blonde too. So any little like Miss of the guide or too much over direction is you're going to see that weight. So I definitely plan on going over it again on dry hair with scissor over comb, maybe even dusting over it with a texturizing scissor. I saw you do something like this at um a club Intrigue on someone that actually works in my salon. Now it was was a model of yours named Chelsea back in the day, I was drunk that night. You were, aren't you always, though? Yes - and it was very similar color and that you know was - was a long time ago. One of my reasons I started going over these Cuts with the pictures because they're not the below smoke Gerard, just because you said that's something that you always do on these. These cuts on dry hair, so I'm very honored that uh International social media sensation, uh, is giving me a shout out here, very, very honored, but yeah in all honesty, Jacob is uh. This is what I love. You know. Jacob'S got a solid background and I'd love to talk about that a little bit because it involves Wayne Lee yeah. I don't know if you heard about Wayne he's had some health issues uh when uh Jacob was a young hairdresser, he trained uh I'll. Let you tell the story yeah. I love this story uh, so Wayne Lee was an educator but Elsa soon and he was opening up an Academy with Lucy Dowdy in Atlanta randomly they were taking clients at a place called 18 in Beverly Hills. I guess together and they were opening an advanced Academy called the Mastery. I was lucky enough to get the job being the assistant cutting educator there and I trained under him for about a year and a half while they were doing that and it was such an incredible experience. I mean I've been doing air for probably six years or something at the time and basically got busted down to an assistant, and I mean that's what I really felt like. I was able to refine my skills. Cutting was because I had Wayne. Be super honest with me about how my haircuts were, he would say, um come on Jacob wait. What is this? What are you doing to me next time? Make this haircut look good things like that? That is that's a great. It'S, not a bad, terrible white impression. There well shout out to Wayne. I hope that he's doing better, I know uh, you know again for those of you that know him from the LA Sassoon days. Uh, you know he's one of the unsung heroes because he didn't have the loudest voice, but he was a super, talented guy, a great educator shout out to Wayne Lee hope, you're feeling better out there. I was always you're moving into the back. Let'S hear about that and then we'll get back to our so I started my sections here on the side and worked diagonally forward. Now, I'm coming to the back. Switching working diagonally back really just trying to work with the shape of the head and work with the natural movement of the hair, following the shape of the head. Until I get down to the nape there and leaving that nape out, because we want to have that kind of um soft fringy, like mullety feeling still just working Palm to Palm as I go so I've noticed you worked very precisely, but it's uh. It'S not overly precise. It feels like you're really working to get this shape in without kind of overly stressing and trying to clip the hair, and you know oh yeah, 500 times like I've, always believed that the basic shape you know it's a rough shape. You don't want to make mistakes, but if I find sometimes people spend too much time on the basic shape and then they run out of gas for the really important parts yeah. I think that's a great point. I really I like to be pretty minimalist. While I'm cutting, I don't work with a lot of Clips. I don't work with a whole lot of pre-sectioning whenever I'm able to do that um so you're right, I'm just sort of like letting the the head be the clip I'm pushing the sections out of the way - and I know that I'm going to have to do Some refinement later so I'm getting that basic shape in and anticipating that I'm gon na have to go back and and refine lines and soften things. There'S this kind of routine that I think well-trained hairdressers, especially those who have a Sassoon background with short hair and you're. Going to do it right now like when you take this section, and then you put your thumb in there and then you put your comb in there like just break this down, because I know a lot of people struggle with being clean on short, hair, organizing and Organizing off the growth so walk us through the whole process here well for each section. Basically, what I'm doing I'm going to take see that thumb a simple section and that in that controller, section literally I'm combing the hair, leaving my thumb to kind of control that and then combing things out of the way. Then I'm just combing right into my previous section to pick it up, rather than trying to sub out what I've already cut. I'M just going to pick up what will naturally get picked up as my guide one little check and then I'm working through. I don't want to waste too much time. You know you see a lot of this happening with people, and maybe that can be part of somebody's process. Maybe it helps them, be more accurate or helps them think. But for me I just didn't: try not to waste too much time, I'm just trying to get that shape in you know, yeah. We used to call it the economy of motion so like getting the result that you need with the right movements and it's like comb thumb, comb, fingers, yeah yeah. I like that the economy of motion have you trademarked that, oh of course, of course, okay, that's mine! Now it's an nft. If you want to know, oh, it is, and you want to invest in it. It'S my new nft like I've got uh. I'Ve got an ape and I've got the economy of motion. That'S my portfolio now, all right. So I've worked across one side of the back, I'm going to come to the other side now and work through and we're going to re-wet this down a teeny bit. How do you know it's time to re-wet? Well, I just see that things are starting to naturally dry and it's a little bit more difficult for me to control that section as it's getting drying out of the comb yeah. And I want to make sure that I have even tension. This whole haircut and if I'm working on a bit of it, while it's half dry and a bit of it while it's wet, then I might end up with a side. That'S jumpier a side, that's a little bit more controlled because whenever it's a little drier, I've got to use more tension and whenever I'm pulling on the hair that that much it starts to Spring out and jump back. That'S actually a big thing that Wayne taught me. I learned that working on really, like short, pixie cuts on Asian texture, like Japanese texture, where it wants to jump out a lot. He I would cut one side of a haircut. It was super jumpy. You taught me about tension, cut the other side and it laid down really nicely - and that was this big light bulb moment for me really so just taking those diagonal back sections we're going to follow the shape of the head working off our guide that we have From up here, pivoting through, you can really see like what kind of motion we're getting and look look at. This looks really quite beautiful on the camera. Oh well, thank you. It reminds me of my our good friend Tom did a lot of collections on short hair. It was all about combing, uh beautiful stuff. Did you do that? One, okay, we're going to be seeing tones yeah? Oh amazing! That'S what that's incredible see out see how good my eye is. Yeah. I could see her cowlick. It'S a historical colleague that we're working on right now we'll see if I can work on it as good as Tom, so yeah working on my guys here. You can see my shorter bits working right on my fingers and, as I come down here, it starts to get difficult for me to bend my wrist this way so - and I know this is sort of um - maybe some people aren't into it. Maybe they are, but I like to work with a flat position, sometimes where I'll work with my fingers like this. Oh man, you turned your hand around yeah. There'S. Definitely some argument about this another one of those old, long-standing things in hairdressing. You know: is it horizontal as a vertical? Oh, can I turn my wrist this way? Hey assistant, yeah yeah. If you can get in there and cut the line it you know it doesn't matter to me. If you want to hang from the ceiling upside down. You know yeah I'll say you can chew it off for all I care, as long as it looks good when it's done, and you know I used to be very idealistic about a razor even like I didn't want to use a razor and then I started using Um, a plie razor, I think my first class was was from you and Nick. Actually, so apparently, you've learned a lot from it. That'S true, I'm not trying to just like it just happens to be true, I'm not sure I'm not trying to give you too much credit, but um, but yeah, and then I was idealistic in another way about the razor. I didn't want to use a feather with a guard and then I watched a uh Sebastian collection on hair brain. Yes, I watched Shake how about that and I was like okay. There is a whole art to using this tool. That'S it's different from using the play. Plie, so I started working with that tool now too, and I'm just trying to be as versatile as possible, and you know if that was something I could go back and tell myself when I was a young hairdresser, not that I'm not that old now but um, But it would be to not stress so much about the ideals there isn't one way to do these things, there's a there's, a bunch of different ways, and this is just a way to do it and so the path that you're talking about, I sometimes find to Be the best best fan right, so I would say to you I'm glad that you started off a little bit: idealist, okay, but then Captain open, because you have to focus on something to get good at it first and if you try to be so open-minded you're. All over the place so like, but then once you get good at it to realize that it's not right or wrong, it's just a way, and there are a lot a lot more ways you know. So I think you went down the right path and I think you know, at least with my experience it's assuming people like Wayne Lee. I think they understood that it's like this is. This is black. This is why, once you get that down, then you go into the world of Bride yeah. I'D love to hear that I'm clapping, I'm happy. I did the right thing unbeknownst to me that it was working out the right way. I I it's funny because my my little brother is actually my Apprentice right now, like my I've, had a bunch of different assistants and apprentices. My brother, he was a public school teacher and now he's decided that he wants to do hair uh. So I told him you know, there's a million ways to do things, but for a while I want you to try and do it just like me just work it out my way. Look what I'm doing and then eventually you can. You can find your own way to do it yeah I mean, because you know it's a craft and there has to be a baseline. I think in a crowd and for some people not all it does become an arm. Those are the people who, I think, Embrace a lot of different things for some people, it stays a craft forever and they do things a certain way forever and that's just the beauty of our of our industry yeah. It'S such a versatile thing. Anybody you know you can find your own way. You find the way that makes you happy to do it. You know like Ben, and I we create all of our curriculums. Together, we travel and teach together. We'Ve had a lot of the same doing, hair next to each other every day, like all the time, so I always thought that was kind of a cool thing that even if you're exposed to exactly the same content and education, you can end up doing things a Little bit differently than each other, so, in addition to owning a salon, doing all this amazing stuff on social media doing hair shows with gold. Well, you've also got a podcast. I do. Let'S talk a little bit about the podcast okay, the podcast uh is called. You know I got in a lot of trouble all right. Our goal with the podcast at first was really to talk about all the things that you're not supposed to talk about in the salon, and I think I managed to do that yes fairly well, yeah. I might have burned a few Bridges we try to do. I don't think that you did, if I think you know you're talking about. I mentioned it to them later and they're totally. They were like. No, no, we love him. So it's totally fine um, I'm just taking off some of these calyx underneath just to get back to the haircut for a moment. But I have this thought about calyx and when in doubt, and you just cut them out and if there's just a little bit of hair underneath here, I'm gon na lift up this fringy stuff that we want to keep. And then I'm just clippering. This off. I'Ve got this um awesome new BaByliss, black and gold killing it. So I mean the idea there is that if you get underneath, then you have enough length to cover it. You can kind of minimize the strength of the hairline yeah. I can help this lay down a bit, and I also sometimes like that it takes some of the weight out from underneath and makes the hairline a little more translucent. It makes it a little bit softer, even though, when I dry it, I'm still going to go back, possibly with a feather and kind of like detail that hairline out a bit. That'S another thing that I I never did before was use a razor on dry hair, and now I I'll totally use a razor on dry hair um. Let'S do one other thing that you shouldn't do with the razor, Maybe foreign, oh yeah, yeah. This is um. Of course, we're the only ones who have ever designed a razor like this right. No, this is our like. Basically, it's the plie shape. We tweaked it a teeny bit. I, like everything to be rose gold, so we got a little hint of rose, gold handle and a white or rose gold sheath with a right handle and then what I'm gon na do with it to clean up around the ears here to show. I think it's cool to show this. I learned this from Ben. You can actually put this blade on your skin with no guard. If you have the right amount of control - and we can just like you know - take that a little bit sure if that is, you know Lee clapson. No, I don't who's that I got ta check them out. He'S a brilliant razor cutter. Who'S really made his own method of Razor cutting he's English, but he's based in Philadelphia. Oh okay, it had areas an end of the salon, he's been: oh I've, I've uh I've heard of it actually yeah. You should see him razor cut for even another perspective yeah. I I first was real nervous about this anyway. Well, I don't even know what the legality of it is in the U.S. You know, oh, it says highly illegal. Yes, it's called the authorities. I have a hard time with them. I'M like teaching class like showing. Oh, you guys can use this in every single class they're like well. I I don't think we can we're not allowed to use it, because I don't have a barber license and from my understanding - and I could be totally wrong about this - feel free to correct me - is that the language usually with state board is that you can't use It on the skin, but you can use it on the hair and that's sort of how I'm getting away with the idea of using it is that we're never actually touching this other people's skin with it. Besides our own here's another one of those ongoing things that you do this for 30 years, you'll hear it. You know what I always say: call your state board and see what they tell you, yeah yeah and absolutely no one has ever called their state board to ask them. So we're gon na use a little bit of flat Marvel and this a lot of time. I'Ll use this for more coarse texture, but because her hair has been lightened so much and it's very jumpy. It'S just going to give me some control to help this hair lay down. So I want to give a shout out to our Atlanta friend Hannah Ruth Evans, who love how she's been watching and joining in and sending a lot of support. Maddie corpora still us a lot of support, a lot of great comments from Finland: oh wow, yep Hannah's. One of the best I love the Atlanta hair scene - really it's like. I don't know if it's like this everywhere, but so many different salons are connected, and so many hairdressers are kind of cool with each other and collaborative you might might so. I worked in Atlanta and I always say the two best hair cities in America or Atlanta and Minneapolis, and it usually starts from one or two people Atlanta for me was a lucky with Scott Cole. It'S not cold for sure. My first cutting teacher ever Scott Cole. Actually, he came and opened a salon after there was. There was just assumes that it didn't um it didn't last and he stayed and opened his own Salon in both van and DJ, and I worked right next to that. Sassoon in the Lenox Mall at a salon called dos yeah uh. Well, there you go now. Also the shores yeah candy Shaw's Uncle Don. I was uh. That was the first one I ever worked in was I worked for Don, so you can trace this whole culture. In Atlanta back to Scott Cole, also the shaw family yeah, I'm sure there's others as well as you got uh yeah, yeah yeah. I always want to say it that way. I don't know it's just sort of natural. He wants to come out like that, all right. So we're gon na blow dry, her hair, I'm not even gon na use a brush most likely right now, I'm just gon na use my fingers and try to just let this cowlick do its thing and then we'll come back and do some refinement. It'S something that I've always, as I said I mentioned any any brand. I'Ve ever worked with, I'm like if you think that popular in Atlanta, you're gon na have a hard time with hairdressers in the United States, because it's like the test lab and it's some of the most passionate hairdressers and I can go on and on you know. I think van council is the best salon owner in the world. Hopefully you learn from ban. I mean in your business of all of these like big and corporate style salons, where they have. You know Van's got hundreds of hairdressers, so many different locations he's going to he's one of the only ones to like really stick around. I mean so many people that had like 10 salons now have one salon and Van's still growing. I actually got to connect with him in person. You know, we've been on the edges of each other's world for so long, but recently we did a charity on the podcast. Oh, I would love to yeah. We have to talk with you because you know, as as you know, if you are a guest on the podcast, expect us to do a deep dive into your life so that we can bring up some things that you haven't thought about in a very long time. Dan'S, not shy, definitely know he's, not shy with those those tight, spandex biker pants. You can see. You know, even though her hair is very jumpy in color, it's just stunning, oh yeah, that's uh. Wherever she is Kylie. This is this is who did the color? My um partner in crime here today, because I do color and cut I do everything I do both, but I I really prefer to cut so I love when I can work with the strong colors, so Kylie bussing, uh color is gorgeous. People are just saying how beautiful it is. Um tell us a little bit about it and uh, where, where are you from what city I'm from Boston and essentially we're going to create a really cool okay, so this is just the base. Oh, this is just the base yeah, but wait there's more there's more, so I just needed a nice clean base. So we just went in with some uh and we told her when a bit of gear into Mb from Colorado, six percent too. Yes, people are so quick to jump in with with high volumes and everything so you're, a big proponent of like work, low and slow she's looking after level, eight right so she's the Unicorn. So it was the perfect base and that's how we got that nice. Clean canvas, fantastic, fantastic and then give us a little bit of an idea of what you're gon na do on stage with your gradient yeah. So I wanted to go with something a little bit more rebellious, but still wearable a little bit of like a punk influence. So we're gon na create a gradient with three different shades, we'll be mixing up. Some illuminous lay um. I still haven't really decided what color family I want to go with, but it's going to be really fun really inspiring and just like, I said a little bit. Rebellious, it's gon na, be it's gon na, be a 6n yeah and guys this is all going to be broadcast on YouTube. So you want to First, you can do, is go to Cal Salon, division on Instagram cow, Kao, Salon, division or Goldwell or KMS get all the information about the times and in your locality and then you'll be able to watch on YouTube and see all these great Artists work their magic all right. Thank you, Kylie! Thank you all right, so it looks like you've jumped into some refining now yeah, I'm just kind of dusting over the whole thing with um. My 14 tooth. I really let's talk about. Let'S talk about the the teeth Choice yeah, so I like a 14 tooth, it's kind of scary right, because there's all this big negative space on the scissor and a lot of people will shy away from it. For that reason, but it's really nice because it really doesn't take out all that much it's kind of like a slow, mellow, texturizing scissor. I got ta work over it a few more times, but I like that, because you know I'd rather have to come back more than close a few times and go. I wish I I wish I hadn't taken out so much so when I first left Sassoon and I first ever picked up any texturizing scissors. I had a friend named David bang and he's the way he explained it to me. It'S like uh. Think of uh like a person's teeth. If someone has a lot of teeth bite into steak, they just rip right through it, but if they have a lot of spaces and gaps they're going to take a less less stake out so every time I see the scissors I think about staying if they got Ta chew they got to chew a little too long. This is steak. You got to chew it up a lot more. This is a rare steak right here or or if there are vegetarian, vegan friends, mushroom yeah. This is a portobello burger, so, like you can see where I let things get a bit longer around the edge right there. So when I do this, I don't want to pick it up right away there and cut all that off. I'M actually going to lift that up a teeny bit more and start a bit behind that, so that I'm leaving more of that length around the front but still letting it soften out a teeny bit from this. And I love to see that after we've worked through. Even just cutting blunt lines, we haven't done any texturizer or anything here through the top, and we get this like kind of really kind of cool soft feeling. You don't have to do much if you're, you know thinking about your Technique from the very beginning. Right now, there's so much very soft uh wild cutting, that's very popular on social media, and you know I also do it. I do a lot of it myself because of the things that are popular. The shapes that are popular right now and texturizing is really fun, but I always find that things hold up a little better if I have a stronger technique to start and then go back and break it down. So if you're just joining us we're here in Amsterdam, we literally just Thrive not too long ago, but we rushed here to spend some time with Jacob Khan and his model Aaron he's preparing for some education they'll be doing over the next few days. It will also be a competition here. Um and it'll all be live streamed on on YouTube. Um, so you'll be able to find that information at the Council on division or the Goldwell Instagram or the KMS Instagram. I wanted to ask you, who are you excited to learn from to see to engage with this weekend? I mean besides me because it brings hairdressers together from all over the world, so there's so many great Goldwell and cow artists that I always love to watch. Really. A big one again is sauna. You know you, I think you probably feel the same way. You'Ve taken a lot of classes, you've seen a lot of people do hair and you don't always leave a classroom. Like oh, I learned something new. I saw something that I haven't seen before, and I think that sauna is one of the people that when I watch her, I usually leave that lesson. Feeling like I got something new. I feel like a better hairdresser every time I I see her work so, no doubt we're huge fans of sauna come over here right now, quick, quick one here she is she's. I was just gon na take a video. It'S going to be live, live with us tomorrow, so for those of you that are friends of Sana brano she'll, be with us tomorrow. Doing a haircut same thing. Welcome to Amsterdam, you having fun already! I am having a wonderful time and if anybody watched my stories yesterday, I was all over the city and just had a great time. It'S beautiful did you go into any coffee shops, but I had coffee ah come on she's uh she's on mushrooms right now, all right well we'll have tomorrow we're shooting, for, I think, 1 p.m. Eu time right is that correct 1 p.m. Here so I don't know what time that is anywhere else in the world. Unless I think about it, the better yeah see you tomorrow see you tomorrow, yeah, you have to make sure you get up early if you're in the U.S to see sauna tomorrow. I'Ll be sure to take my dose early so that I'm ready yeah, so you're she's going to be peeking by one o'clock. So I had a little bit more to take off at the bottom. So I switched away from my texturizers back to a five and a half inch, which is kind of my go-to size. I have been playing around a little bit with bigger scissors, but if I am just like automatic, when I'm grabbing a scissor, I just reach for a five and a half right away. I think it's just because I started off with a smaller scissor, so it just feels more natural to me, but I have played with a seven a little bit now. Sometimes it feels uh unnecessary, but I do think it can be fun. Some deep Point cutting yeah. It'S another one of those things that again there's a lot of uh. I I want to say, myths about, like people say measure the sides of your hand from your palm to your fingers. Oh my goodness, it's just a little personal choice. I'Ve seen people with very small hands like big scissors people with big hands like small scissors. It'S all personal choice. I do find that when I, when I get really comfortable with one thing, I do try to use something else to make myself aware of my hands. Yeah, I think it's also fun just to not get too stagnant. You know when I I that happens to me with um the shapes and stuff that I'm doing as well, if I start to feel a little bored, a little stagnant. Normally. What I end up doing is, I Go Back to Basics and I do very simple shapes, and then I try something new as soon as it starts to feel a little bit, um too boring or if I feel like I've done the same thing too many times. I definitely switch it up, especially with um with my clients, if I feel like you know lately, I feel like I've just done a a curtain, a curtain bang on 95 of clients that come in, so I've just start pushing them in a different direction right away. I'M like well guess we're going to leave it longer, we're not going to do a curtain, bang anymore and I've always. I think, that's hilarious too, that it's that things are now named after household items and animals instead of like the people who made them famous. Originally it's another one of those things where you know people say: oh, this is the butterfly cut and then 500 people say we used to call it this yeah yeah. You know the old joke, it's the only hairdressing joke. I know how many hairdressers does it take to change light, bulb how many 199 to do it, and one to say I've done that already. I thought it was the other way around. I might have got the mix. Okay come on one to do it 99. To tell you you're doing it wrong! Yeah there you go you're the comedian, I'll leave I'll leave the jokes to you all right. So we're gon na do a little deep Point. Cutting through this hairline now just to break things up and start to define the shape. So we're gon na I'm just looking for where it like right here. It feels pretty soft already here feels a little bit heavy. I'M gon na go in and we're gon na really go in pretty deep and break that up move a little bit come here to the center. I'M notice I'm holding her head at the top. You know not really for any other reason. Besides, I want to make sure that she doesn't move anytime, I'm putting my steel to skin there. I usually put my other hand on their head to keep them still to keep them safe and to make sure that my lines are going to be consistent and clean. But I want this to be kind of soft and undone. I think it could also be cool to kind of cut this out in kind of a graphic way, but for her we want all the strength and everything through the interior and all the edges to be really soft is working in a vertical point. Cut kind of a parallel point cut to the hair. We could come in at a 45 degree angle, but that's going to make things a little chunkier, a little Bolder which chunky, I think, has been a bit of a bad word in hairdressing. But it is definitely coming back. I noticed chunky, textures, uh, sort of Bolder block, colors chunky layers - things like that coming back in. We just need to find a new word for it, so our clients get comfortable with it, but I definitely see it getting more popular again so uh. Would you say that your approach here was to go kind of parallel with the hair growth? So you just kind of created separation, but not chunkiness. Exactly I'm working like a deep parallel point cut following the same movement of the hair as I go to diffuse the line, but not change the line. How about you know people have a challenge with this people? Can have a challenge with this because they bury their hand in the scissor like we're there yeah when I'm holding my scissor. It never goes in past this knuckle on this finger and then, if I'm, you know doing so overcome by the time I've opened the scissor. My thumb is actually out of the of the hole at the time it comes out and then, when I'm working, those flat positions, I'm basically taking my pinky pulling the scissor flat like that, and then I bend my thumb at a right angle and just rest. It on top of the blade - and that allows me to kind of get this 360 degree angle, which I always say you want to be able to do more with your tools so that you can have less of them because they're very expensive. You know and a lot of tools that are coming out. You don't really need them and you don't want to end up being a crutch. You know I I've had one thing I haven't really played with all that much is a swivel um. I recently tried I'm considering it and people kept correcting me and saying you're, not using it properly you're, not using a problem. For God's sake, I did a few videos like I. I wanted to launch one for hair brains, so I got a company to send me a bunch of them and I tried them and I was enjoying it, but people kept telling me you're not using it right, you're, not using it right. Oh my gosh. What what could be the way that you're using it wrong? Is it cutting the hair, I'd probably lock the swivel? I think that the whole he just doesn't use the swivel. No, no, some of you. The idea was that you really need to keep your elbow down and you know obviously moving my elbow because I've been you're just used to doing this for 32 years cutting hair, but it was like no keep your elbow down, keep your elbow down, and I just And I I put them away and cried and never did it again. I heard a little cowlick here in the top because it does get a little jumpy. I'M deciding just to take it down even a little bit more and you know just doing that overcome not doing it in my fingers. Just for whatever does jump up. I don't want to jump up too high and we could have it sort of you know be part of the style, especially if we style it with a little texture, a little movement, and now I'm just going across the top, in the same way that I uh Cross checked originally and just chipping into it a teeny bit. It doesn't really need a whole lot. I feel like it is blending pretty well, but because her hair is so straight and so blonde. I want to make sure that, no matter what she does with it, it's always going to kind of blend out and not have any weird blunt uh sharp lines in it. So we always see a lot of questions about uh like jumpy crowns, especially with men's cutting and stuff, and I remember one thing that I learned pretty early on um was either keep it long enough that it lays down or cut it short enough that it doesn't Matter, it's everything in between that's the problem. That'S true, I think that's true, and I also think that the tension is a big part of it and the sectioning like whenever I see that someone's got a serious World pattern. You know I I decided to kind of pivot off of her actual pattern. When I did my initial uh shape, I usually feel like that helps it lay down. If I kind of pick it up and force it out of its natural position and cut it. It'S going to jump out and and stand up in a way, crazier way, look up a little bit for me and close your eyes. Getting to the front, you know, simple little tip, I think is great, is to tell your clients to close their eyes when you're working around the front. I know it seems a little first thought like of course, oh yeah close your eyes, but oftentimes. We don't and we have clients, uh get hair all in their eyes, and you end up with a Yelp review of like a one star review that says your haircut looked great, but it got hair in my eyes, I'm not talking from experience. It is about the experience and the service right I mean we can never forget that yeah. Absolutely. I I think that um, that's something that we're really trying to upgrade all the time is the experience in the salon and for our clients. That'S one reason that we decided to get the bigger space we've actually uh. We have a full bar in the salon now for clients that want that and, as my haircuts have gotten more expensive, I'm trying to you know really make a meal out of them. Every time that I do it, I want even the simplest service, like a haircut to be a full-on experience. You know, and I think a lot of time it can get left to the Wayside these days. Color is so popular extensions are so popular people will just cut the bottom and curl it and that's the haircut, but I really want it to be an experience for every client that comes in so any tips. Now I we haven't spoken about it much, but you've done phenomenally well on social media, um and but kind of done it your own way, meaning I you know you didn't just follow like what people were doing hair wise to get popular. You kind of were like this is the way I believe, and this is what I do um so any advice. Anyone wants to follow that path. Yeah, I think you know. Besides, all the regular social media advice, like all you got ta do videos, you got to make reels and all of that stuff there's like some generic advice. That I think is great and it's it's authenticity. It'S like a very influencer type of a word authenticity, but people don't just fake it don't just say like we want this to be authentic, but really, I think, a big part of why we got popular is that everything that you see online? The way that I'm talking and behaving is exactly the way that I talk and behave in real life, and we started doing that early. We started adding in the voiceover adding in the video early so that we're not only just showing here that we did but showing ourselves and showing our personality so whatever it is. That makes you happy that makes you tick. That makes you excited about hair.