Hair Color Developer: How To Pick The Right One 2021
- Posted on 14 March, 2021
- Fusion Hair Extensions
- By Anonymous
quick and easy guide to help you pick what developer to use for your hair color formula and understand why you're using it! We will go be going through 5, 10, 20, 30, 40 & 50 volume developer and what formulas they are appropriate for. This will be in Milday Chapter 21 for my cosmetology student friends New content every week, subscribe! I'm happy you're here❤️
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Hey y'all welcome back to my bathroom. My name is bernie, i'm a real hairdresser, but today i'm going to take you through everything. You need to know about hair color developers, so you can mix your formula at home. This is what developer typically looks like to keep this really simple. All you need to understand about developer is that it is just used to activate hair, color or lightener. Just this developer alone basically doesn't do anything, so it has to be married with hair, color or lightener for it to work. When you marry these two together, it creates a chemical reaction and starts working and that's how your hair changes color, either darker or lighter developers, come in different forms, there's clear cream and gel. This is what the cream based developer looks like and it's the most commonly used. So if you're unsure, when you're at the supply store just pick, the cream developer developer also comes in different strengths. There'S 0, 5, 10, 20, 30, 40 and there's 50. would not recommend that unless you're going for the bald look, these different numbers basically represent its oxidizing potential. Basically, how strong it is so 10 is going to offer a milder result, while 40 would be a more dramatic result. Now, for my uk friends, i'm glad you're here, but your developer is going to read a little bit differently. So i've put a conversion chart up here, so you can see what yours will look like to clarify this, so this makes better sense. I'Ve got cups of water here, labeled 10, 20, 30 and 40.. That'S going to represent our developer, we're going to take these alka-seltzers and drop one in the 10 2 in the 20 3 in the 30 and 4 tablets in the 40 volume we're going to drop them in at the same time. So you can kind of see the oxidation power of each developer. Basically, how fast it's going to work, you can see the difference in the reaction. The 10 volume cup is very slow and steady, not a whole lot of fizz or reaction going on versus a 40 volume, which is roaring of reaction. The developer is very similar to that 10 volume. Developer is not going to change a lot of chemical reaction or damage your hair as much as a 40 volume. How hair color and lightener works is you have a hair shaft? So let's pretend this is a huge hair shaft, ladies. The color molecules either rest on the outside of this hair shaft, like this think of little like brussels sprouts on a stalk. They sit like this. That'S temporary hair color because it slides off every time you shampoo your hair but permanent, hair color. If this is the hair color molecule - and this is my hair shaft when you mix it with hydrogen peroxide and it causes the chemical reaction and all that sciency stuff, it penetrates inside the cuticle and changes the way the hair shaft looks. So if you had blonde hair and took black hair dye - and it goes inside, it will appear to be black when you use a 40 volume with your formula and it pushes through the hair strand, it's also puffing it up, just like it did with the alka-seltzer. It'S roaring in there. That'S what causes damage breakage, hair falling out if you've ever had blonde hair and had like mashed potato hair or what's it called not mashed potato hair, spaghetti hair if you've ever had spaghetti, hair fry dried lay to the side. Ladies, that is probably why you used too strong the developer for your hair's integrity to break the strengths down further. Let'S start with tin volume, 10 volume is going to give you roughly one level of lift when you're mixing it with bleach or lightener. 10 volume is also used for deposit only hair color. What that means, if i'm going to take a tube of hair color, and i want to go darker - i'm going to be using tin volume, for example. This is one in the darkest hair color black. If i wanted to put this on my hair color, which is roughly a level eight, i would use this color with this developer. We'Re not going to get into how to actually mix the color, because i have a video up here. If you need it, you can watch on the ratios and how to properly do that. So basically, if you're going darker and you have no grays in your hair, you can use 10 volume. 20 volume will give you roughly two levels of lift when you're, using bleach or lightener for hair color or going darker 20 volume is recommended if you have gray hair everybody's different. But for me, if i see any gray hair, i'm using 20 volume on my client because gray hairs are the devil's work. They go like this they're very resistant, angry coarse. So you need that extra chemical boost to penetrate the hair shaft. So the hair color will stay if you were to use tin volume developer on someone who had gray hair. It may look good when you initially shampoo it out, but eventually it will just slippety sloppity slide off and you'll be given a refund. I personally also like to use 20 volume with any kind of red shade it kind of brings out the vibrancy and makes it more vibrant. But this is to your discretion 30 volume, which you don't have, because honestly, i very rarely use that we'll provide you three levels of lift when we're talking about bleaching or lightening the hair for hair color. As far as going darker, it's not really recommended to use 30 volume, but you can use it for what's called high, lift colors or a high lift series, a high lift, color kind of does the same thing as a bleach or lightener would do it comes in A hair, color, tube and i'll say high, lift on it, which means you need to use a 30 or 40 volume it will break through the hair, shaft and lighten your hair. Most hair colors in tubes are just meant to darken your hair, so this is a totally different thing, so it's very similar to bleach in that way, but it lifts the hair color level and it tones it at the same time, whereas bleach will lift it, but Typically doesn't tone it at the same time, so you'll have kind of like an orangey, yellow tint. Sometimes after you bleach your hair or lighten it, but i will say, although high lift color is safer for your hair, it definitely does not work as well as lightener or bleach olgal. Here 40 volume provides four or more levels of lift when you're talking about lightner and again for hair color, it's not recommended unless you're using that same high, lift series and there's some that we didn't talk about, which is zero lift. This is basically nothing just liquid in here, but it provides no level of lift if you're at the salon or at home and didn't have the color you needed. You could dilute it down to make that color. You could also mix parts of 20 with zero to create 15 volume. It lightens fantasy colors like the vibrant, pinks purples blues. It will create pastels in most cases, five volume i don't ever use honestly. I haven't seen that in several years 50 volume. I honestly have never used at the supply store. I go to they lock it in this glass cabinet, because it's used to make other apparatuses that are not good for any of us explosion, type things. Okay, so that's the basics of developer, there's a whole other technical and chemical side to this, but this should be enough information for you to pick out your developer, because the developer strength is one of the most important parts of your hair, color or lighting formula. So you want to try to get that right if you can but again, like i said, if you're unsure, just stick to 20 volume, cream developer you'll be fine. Okay, so that's it thanks again for joining me here in my bathroom, be sure to like subscribe. Unsubscribe dislike, who cares? I post new cheap tricks for you every single week? I will see you next week for something cool. You
Comments
Olive B: Finally a great developer explanation video without nonsense.
Star Williams: When she said she converted it for her UK friends I immediately liked the video. It’s the fact that she recognized that she has an audience outside of her region.
Nikole Vargas: Thank you so much for this! I followed your at home hair cut, and I swear it’s the best cut I’ve gotten in years and I did it myself. Love you and your videos!!
Mighty Mama: Brittnee! Loved this! So clear, quick and straight to the point! I am going to be attempting to dye my daughters hair for the first time and I really do not want to use a box brand so thank you for helping to clarify the meaning of all the developers. I am still a bit confused as to where the bleach comes in and the color but I am going to check out your other videos which I am sure you will clearly explain. Thanks for helping those of us who can not afford 300 hair appointments just to feel pretty. You are doing a great service to us women here! xo
hmm designs: YESSS!! Finally! Your DIY tutorials are amazing - easy to follow, direct and clear and actually work!!!! From us determined hair and beauty DIY'ers thank you thank you for giving us hope!
Bonzai: Straight to the point. Simple and in depth. Thank you!!
Becca Harden: This was thorough clear and concise! Thank you for the wonderful explanation.
Alaina Algood: redheads come here for 5:18 literally I've been terrified to dye my hair bc I want it just right, but I couldn't decide. you're an angel for adding this part in. people talk about grays, but not redheads, it's crazy!
OG: Straight to the point while informative… I love her! Subbing❤️
Silver Bat: You are so smart and informative without confusing a newbie like me too much, thank you!
Andrea Miller: “Would not recommend unless you’re going for the bald look”
elle Conner: Thanks so much for the simple but amazing explanation!
Charlene: Brittnee, You were Fabulous! I Loved the way you took your time, used visual aids, and explained in detail how developers work. Great work, kudos, and blessings to you and your loved ones this holiday! Charlene Wilson, Crescent City, California....................
ronskfc: I used developer 20 with hair color removal to get my hair light in order to dye it green and it worked. Thanks for the advice!
Danielle Guzman: You just described science to us!! I wish you were my chem teacher lol! seriously, making complex subjects easy and relatable is your gift!! well, aside from being a rad hairstylist
LadyK Loves: Thanks so much for this!!! I’ve been using 10 vol. on virgin hair and I’ve gotten 6+ lvls of lift...with baby light foils...so I rarely use over 20vol...but I’m freaking out over a future consult...she has L’Oréal hi lift (red) on top of black bigen, atop preciously lightened hair...definitely gonna do a few test strands, but what’s my best option!?! Please help! Lol! Thanks in advance
Brii 2Lovely: Thank you!! I’m starting color next month and my teacher does not break it down easy for us. I understand it completely
Jenna Paulson: I learnt so much and I sincerely thank you for sharing your tremendous knowledge Xx ♀️
Bianka H: Thank you for this!! very informative and well explained
Ver Rau: thank you for this great explanation!! I really love your videos!! One question: If I want to lift my hair from level 6 to level 7 or 8 , which developer should I use? 20 vol? I would like to use wella Illumina in 7 or 8 ash tone
Mimi: Best explainer EVER. Thank you so much. I’m learning how to color my wigs. It’s been a struggle.
Ana Avalos: Great educational video! You answered all my questions. Gracias!
Destinie Johnson: You did a great job at explaining!
SNL kids: Hi there! Absolutely love your channel. I'm wanting to dye my full head burgundy with a permanent colour, however I previously had bleached and toned highlights. 30 vol worked perfectly for that job, as I have quite dark, thick hair. So I was wondering, should I use 30 or 20 vol with the burgundy? Thanks!!
Bex: Hi from the UK!! GREAT VIDEO can I ask Do you suggest bleaching level 6ish roots twice with a less harsh developer to reach platinum or just go all out with a 30 vol? Which causes less damage? X
Ciara Wetherell: My daughter just got partial foil highlights. We wanted caramel. It came out more light/neutral….cooler than we wanted. The “stylist” used a red kin bleach with a 20 developer on her virgin hair. She put her under a dryer for 30 minutes. When we got to the toner part, she didn’t let me see what she used. What should she have used to make it more of a caramel highlight?
Holly Belle: You are stellar! You would be a great science teacher! Thank you for this, I've been trying to figure out what's going on with my grays,
Lubna Ferdous: Honestly this is the most helpful video so far on YouTube about developers.thanks a ton.
John Sailor Secret in Distress: 20 and up is good for mixing with blonde dye or bleach powder. 10 or 20 is for mixing with vibrant color like blue or green or you can mix with non silicone conditioner or hair mask so the vibrant color don't lighten. Every 1 oz vibrant dye use 2 oz of developer /or 2 oz with 4 oz developer, if it's 1 oz bleach use with 2 oz developer. For black and brown dye use 10 or 20 developer
Linda G: I have watched so many videos on dying, bleaching & even some that honestly sounded like," So, ya say you no longer want hair!" &/or "Don't worry about the bald spots you'll have by following these instructions, you'll be starting a whole new trend." !! You got right to the point & made it all so east to understand. After leaving this comment I am deleting ALL of the hair dressers! I will be binging your video's this weekend! Thanks so much for taking the time to share your knowledge & making these videos. A lot of people have no idea what making a video like this takes. So grateful!! Thank you!!❣️
Tasha_Talks_ Tasha_Talks: You’re amazing! You explained everything perfect
ganchroi: Just found this and I love you - I'm used to watching Brad Mondo and he's full of a lot of parlour tricks and talks a lotta nonsense, this is much easier and your metaphors are fab <3
Rikki Burkhardt: Thank you so much for posting this. You make it so easy to understand. Kudos to you !!!
Marianne Scarfe: You are such a great teacher!!!
Jeannette C Fernandez: Thank you so much finally a great explanation
Madeleine Shaw: This was awesome, thanks, chica. I love your videos, it's like hanging with a cool bestie and learning all the best tips.
Taylor McIntosh: hi, i’m trying to see which volume to use for my hair. my hair is the darkest black and i used dark and lovely to make my hair lighter so i couldn’t put burgundy color on my hair. but it came out blotchy so i wanted to fix it but didn’t want to damage my hair. which volume do you think i should use?? your help would mean a lot
ItsmeBish584: High lift is the devil. A lady at Sally's handed me a box of ion intense shine natural blonde high lift and sent me on my way. I told her I bleached my hair the day prior and could not get the orange out. So she said this will work.. yeah it did but apparently you should NEVER use high lift on recently bleached hair. Had to learn the hard way.. did it get rid of the orange? Yes, it made my hair white but it also came out in clumps and damaged it so much. It looks fried for real! I want to cry. Now I'm researching hair extensions. I will never listen to another person at Sally's.
Nicole Tan: Thanks for your explanation. As a end user, finally know what is a developer meant for. ☕
SANDY S: Omg I absolutely love this video thank you thank you THANK YOU for this detailed break down!!!!
Lina :3: This video really helped me because I am new to dying my hair but I do have a question, I recently bought ion true tones for dark hair in the shade violet and the employee there recommended I use 30 vol developer so I bought it. I never used this dye or done real hair dye I've always used box dye, I just want to know before I did anything wrong if I made a mistake and need to return the 30 vol developer ( I also have pre colored hair that is a red orange ) - if anyone can help me it would be much appreciated :3
GPS Coach Teena Marie: This was PERFECT!!!! Thank you so much!!!
kymberleighnia: Thanks for the info! What developer would you recommend for demi permanent on dark brown hair to help camouflage gray?
Lavinia Rramani: Hi! Great video! Thanks! Still I have a small question please. My hair root is dark brown and I am golden blonde in length. I would like to reach a gray blonde. Can I use a 30 vol developer on the root, to open 3 tones and the same length? or should I use 20 vol in length? I am confused about that. Thanks a lot
ANGIE'S TV: Amazing clear instructions
Brie: Hello! Thank you for the very informative video. I am African American with virgin dark brown (almost black hair) and I would like to achieve a chocolate brown color using Dark and Lovely box dye. Do you recommend sticking with the developer from the box or a separate 30 volume developer?
Paulette: Thank you so much for this video..it explained so much!!
CEE: This is an amazing and easy to understand explanation
MaKalia Z.: Wow!! Thanks for this amazing explanation!
Robin Morgan: Sorry if this is explained in another video, but I just discovered you and have only watched two videos Two questions: 1) Will the developer stop processing after a certain time? Or will it continue to damage your hair? I know I’m going to have to work slow on my own hair, so should I just count on washing out the back before I start on the front? Or will it be fine to sit until I’m done? Also, if it can sit, should I add a stronger developer to my existing mixture to speed up the top to catch up with the bottom sooner? 2) I need to apply some NN to these damn grays for the looking I’m trying to accomplish (a shadow root or balayage). Should I apply that first, rinse, then lighten after I dry it again? And how far down should I go? Just maybe an inch or so from the scalp? Thanks in advance! So grateful for your channel/advice! ❤️
Nikki Nikki: You explained this perfectly! I wish I could speak to you now I need help ♀
dm dm: You are the best teacher ever. I am so happy I 've found your video. I am going to cheack out more. Thank you!
pamela burroughs: This was so informative. Thank you.
bumaddyangel: Thank you for your explanation on gray hairs☺️
Emily Sossoman: I have a great concept of developers with lighters but Didn’t understand developers with depositing color.. thank you now I have a perfect understanding of it.
Mostaq Hussain: Thank you very useful, can I use any volume developer brand? Or does it need to match with the hair dye? For example Pravana chromesilk with Pravana developer
Nydessa Hooper: I have dark brown hair to medium dark brown and I'm bleaching it, I'm still a little confused but I got 99.9% of what you explained. Best explanation ever, I just need to know between 20-30 which one will help me not get to Orange of a color, I do know about Toner to help the brassy parts. I just need more research on developer. Thank you sooo much.
Christa' Allen: Girl you just saved me from going bald! Thank you!
Kennya K: Precise and crispy, love this content
Kwipy Watta: This helped so much, my mom always died and bleached my hair for me. And now I have to do it myself, I personally dont trust anyone with my hair cause I have ALOT its very thick and coarse and anytime ive ever went to a salon...they never know...what to do with it...
Iesha w: Thank you so much for this explanation thank you
Cary Peterson: You’re a great teacher!
Christine Rosemond: Very informative. Thank you for sharing your expertise.
Mackenzie Evans: This is so informative!! What should be used on fine hair to go from natural black to chocolate brown without damage?
Kate Parkes: Thank you for great explanation of different developers to use w color
Michele Paul: Great video!! Finally I get it completely!!
bat Ü: hi, i loved this video! i was wondering, if i have very dark hair that i wanted to dye, say, light purple, what developer would i use if i didnt want to bleach my hair first, or is that not an option and i have to bleach it?
Elvira Rebane: Thank you! It helped me a lot!
Genesis Gomez: This video may have saved me , because the lady at the hair salon gave me a 40 and I have very very delicate hair going right back to get the 10 Instead . Heck no I already lost my hair 2 years ago and had to do a big chop .
hmm designs: I did face framing babylights in foils around my face on my level 6 virgin hair with 20 Volume + Bleach left on 45 min / the ends lifted almost to platinum but the Zone 1 roots are VERY brassy orange...is it safe to go in again over the brassy roots with 20 volume and carefully apply lightner just to the orangey strands or is that considered overlapping? Trying to avoid the spaghetti situation haha!!
It's Me: Giiiiiiiirrrrrrrllllll!!! When I say I'm too thankful for you I mean it. I've never used developer and I want to use it with the hair dye brand Adore. I'm going to watch your video of how to measure developer right now.
7 7: Very helpful thank you!
Renee Espinoza: Subscribed! Happy I found this video love how you explain. Thanks so much dear ❤
Semhar Habib: Thank you for this video. I just want to double check. I’m a black woman with virgin almost black hair and wanna go to like a reddish purple (kind of burgundy) color so would you recommend 20 volume ?
Isamar Morillo: For someone with type 4 curly thick hair looking to dye their hair copper, would 20 developer be best? I’m gonna view your other video now about mixing colors etc thank you for explaining here
orwma: this is exactly what i needed thanks for the video
Peepsqueek: Question: I've seen videos of people with brown hair going copper red with just one step. In the video I'm thinking of she had virgin brown and went copper red with Wella color charm 6rg. She mixed it with 1:1 20 vol developer, but now I'm confused! Can you lighten hair with one step color? How did her hair lighten AND turn red in one step?
Katherine Colson: Amazing content, thank you!!!
Maria Kadas: Hi I just found your channel and I have a question about developers, I have naturally dark brown hair and I just colored it to cover some grays I’m still dark brown with some lighter highlights. I want to add a few purple highlights and got the L’Oréal excellence hicolor violets for dark hair only in the shade H19 true violet. I have only ever used 20 volume this says to use 30 what should I do?
Chloe hill: So for dark hair that’s been dyed a lot .. and wanting to go a caramel colour would I use 20 volume but what toner and developer! The only thing I struggle on
a. Phillips: Thank you! Very informative!
Cathyall L.: Thanks so much for this video. I have a completely black hair, may I know 40 vol developer can lighten how many shade? If the toning is suggested for level 8, do I really need to achieve the same level to do the toning?
Tarasaraus Rex: I have like a blindish , some brown and a little bit of pink from having pink hair before. I’m thinking of using the bleach and toner kit from Sally’s it’s a 40 developer. It would be my first time using toner. I don’t want to completely ruin my hair but I want to go almost platinum blonde and I would like to have one color on my hair. Any suggestions if I’m gonna be doing it wrong or a better way to do. It says the 40 is a activator and there’s also a conditioning toner with the bleach powder. I watched you mixing video but I would love more tips for my hair color.
It's O-Kaye: Hello! I have brown hair and I was thinking of dyeing my hair burgundy red. Is it safe to use a 12% / 40 volume developer when I’m gonna dye my hair by myself?
Karen White: You did such and excellent job on explain\ this
N. Tulin Tacettin: Thank you for the 12= 12n that's what I was looking for. I just couldnt find the box. It's all sold out at the markets!! Sorry for the delayed answer! (Whixh I asked in another video!!
Tina Bailey: Good explanation, thanks!
Sunshine Saxon: This video was so helpful. Can you do one with Loreal Hilights please?
Lily Flores: Omg thank you!! I been looking for a video that will help me understand the difference of developer. Your the best!!
Debra Ann: So glad I found you girl! Great channel
facesofelengos: Great explanation!!
MizLevelup: Very helpful
Yusra Mohammed: Very educational❤️
Camila Ricardo: Hello! thanks so much for this video, if i want to dye my hair a lighter brown (currently is dark brown/black like in my photo) should i use a 30 or 20 vol?
Jo Castillo: My natural hair is super black so I always use 50 volume to lift my roots. Lifts my hair quickly.
Jordan G: In your demonstration, wouldn’t adding one tablet to each cup be a more fair experiment? Did the 40colume fizz move because it had more tablets? Could you explain please I’m so confused
Monica D: Best explanation! Thank you
Carmel-Ann Sullivan: Just checking - when going to darken white/gray roots with dark brown color we should use 20 developer? Great video! Thanks!
iamkayjanee: I have box dyed hair in my locs now ( medium type brown) and I want to use the right developer to get blonde which one would u recommend?
josiewyn: this was so informative thanks for posting