Best Strand And Keratin Tip Installation Placement - 2 Guys Chat

What'S up profitable stylist, we going over all things, keratin bonds and k tips. What is the best placement for keratin bonded, hair extensions, k-tip bond extensions, all different types of hair extensions. Last week, like a robot, i sound like a robot all kinds of okay, i'm so excited i'm trying to control my excitement. So i don't just start going on and on and on you know: okay, there's no cussing on the channel, so i want to just because it all the time i know so patterns. Oh my god. I love patterns. You know i wanted to tell a story. Oh, are you done the intro, i'm gon na tell your story, you got a story, you're so excited, so we were on stage for many years. In the beginning, it was a hair extension extension company called socap. We distributed socap which turned into she hair, but in the very beginning it was so new, so many with people would hairdressers would come to the stage and they wanted their red green blue strand. Some of you guys, watching this probably were some of those stylists doing that, and - and it got to the point where the vendor we had a big 20 by 20 booth in the middle, the vendor, lady, that can't, then i think you were mostly doing color on Stage and i was doing extensions and then then you kind of moved on over to the extension world, but in the middle of the booth, the owners of the of the vendor. Whatever i don't know what the words are, they would sell the hair behind a little glass case or whatever a hairdresser or somebody would come up and say i want blue hair, i want green hair and they would sell them the hair. They would literally stand in a line beside our booth, and i don't know, i think they were buying them for five or ten dollars a strand and they would come up and we would just put them in and that ended up being our models. Our demo and one girl walks up and she's got a handful of hair and it's not a lot of hair, and i said it was more than 10 or 20 strands, though, and so i said what do you want to do with that? She said. I want extensions and i said well what do we have here? I looked at it and back then we sold them in 25 per pack and she had two packs, and i said you want longer hair with only 50 strands and that's when it started all kind of coming to me. I had years of experience. I had put lots of heads of extensions in, but i oh, it was always on my terms. How much hair did, i think, a person needed and then all of a sudden i'm challenged with pretty girl. Don'T wan na don't want to make her cry 50 strands. She'S going to the party tonight, she wants to look good. This is all in the kind of florida pseudo consultation conversation. That'S all the money i had uh. I really thought that's what they said in the booth. You could do you could make it look good with this and i was kind of torn like. Oh, my god. No you, you can't get ex. You can't look good with 50 strands, and so i started having this conversation. I started thinking patterns. So that's when i was first challenged with where's the most important place to put the least amount of strands you have and that's where a lot of our marketing came from, i started thinking of. What'S the most, you can do with the least you can buy. What, if somebody comes to you with this this like this, this is their cap of money. Should we should we not, and so a lot of times you say no, but in a situation like this, the hair's already bought it's right in front of you. What'S the best we can do with it, and i explained to her i said she had some pretty fine thin hair. So i thought you know we can do something, but it's not what i recommend for a full head and she said well, i can get more hair later. Have someone hairdressers do back at home in a week or two? I can save up some money, but for now, what can you do with this and that's when that's when this pattern came to me and i was like okay, so this is what i'm thinking you're going to the party tonight right 50 strands. I'Ve been doing this so long that i know that if we do a top row like where the part is, if we put your top row in all the way around, i'm a little dramatic with the curves here right, but it from the crown derrick crown crowned The crowned she wasn't crowned just the crown stay away from the crown area and then come back up and get as close to the part as we can here on the top. That is 30 strands on the top of the average size head and then the bottom row is 40. Usually so i'm thinking - oh that's, 70 strands and she's only got 50. i'll have to uh i'll, have to kind of cut back a little on them. Maybe put a little space between them to get it to work, because i know this is 70. and those are the two most important rows, the lower row, and maybe you could go a little lower if the hair's a little thicker. If it's finer, you've got to stay away from there a little bit and do that whole bottom row, and so i said you know what. If we had a few more to pop in along the front, i can't even draw a line or along that front. Hairline then you put it in a ponytail and all that thick hair in the middle will be kind of hidden in the center. But if you let it down you're gon na look stupid. No, if you let it down, it's not gon na blend. But if you put in a ponytail and we cut it, you could look good for the party night and you'll. Look like you have more hair, and so that was she was so happy. I saw her at the party later she was like. Oh, my god, everybody loves my hair, i said, keep it in a ponytail, and so that was my first experience with like being challenged on where you put the hair, because we used to just start right here and just go up the head. Slowly until we got to here, hoping we'd have a little hair left over. What do you have to say before i go to my next house? Well, i'm just thinking back on it. Those are the days where girls used to wear their hair straight when they went out. They weren't doing all the beachy waves that they're doing nowadays. So there was no hiding it. You could see every discrepancy that there was so the only way to get around. It was like you're saying to do a ponytail or to do some kind of a bun half up half down type thing that that was the options you know. So it's the point that you bring up you're right and that's why so many people's extensions look so much better these days because they're all curled, you can't hear and hide so many mistakes, you're right back, then that's a good point. That'S a good point. I had to be better at doing an extension to be no, you had to be good because everybody wanted flat straight smooth hair. I think cher was the first one. Sharon madonna came out on those stages with that party down the middle slick straight and we're like wow, that's different, and then everybody wanted to be them. And then it wasn't different anymore yeah, because with highlighting your your weaves from the foils had to be pinpoint precision, because if you had any bleed marks any discrepancies, any lines of demarcations yeah when you go and and flat iron that hair, that's true. Even on color and highlights right yeah, you got to get everything perfect, at least on the very top section of hair. I remember my first extension when i was starting to alternate two different colors that were not matched up to the base color and if, if you spread them too far apart, it looks so goofy because it just looked like a random strip of color. You know coming down the side of their head, so you had to get the spacing like consistently perfect in between every other bond and you had to make sure the colors weren't so intensely contrasting. So so it had some kind of a flow to it. So it kind of made sense otherwise yeah those straight hair man made us way better. I'Ve got so many patterns back here. I think my with my uh i like to kind of have systems in my head, so i'm going to jump around from a from a few different techniques, but what i mostly want to say is that whether you're doing k-tips keratin tips eye tips, uh god help Me out here, uh natural beaded rose, waterfall beaded rose any kind of weft any kind of weave hand tied extensions. What else am i missing anything? No, that yeah you pretty much covered it. All all of those patterns still matters, you know, and so i actually did a little pattern class from my salon tuesday morning at uh 9 00 a.m. If you guys want to come i'll, spend about an hour with my stylist and we usually just go over basic haircutting styling today, this tuesday i had them just sit down and look at something, and i actually took oh, i got rid of that head did i. I i showed them. I think we did it last week, huh with the too high to too low yes yeah yeah. We spoke about that last week. My own son couldn't understand why, on this side of the head, there was such a. I said what do y'all call this. He said a shelf, a one on a set, a shelf. One of them said disconnection. I was like yes, that's the professional term, i'm looking for disconnected and my own staff could not understand why they said. Well, you got to go a little higher, but a little higher doesn't bring it much further. You had to go a lot higher, so you could bring the left into like here. Yes, oh i heard when i'm looking that way and talking y'all can't hear me good. So i apologize for that. Oh you got to speak towards the mic: better, okay yeah, so this hair here is what falls over the eyes this hair in the front. So you've got to bring the hair up high enough to get past the recession and then it'll. You can get it far enough forward or just use a little extra hair. So what you're? Actually, let's create a baseline for what you're talking about here at the no matter? What type of pattern you're going to use? No matter what kind of extension approach you're going to take with the technique, the you could do anything you want as long as you have enough hair around the hairline to cover it up. That'S the general rule of placement patterns. It i don't care if you want to be at the sideburn, you want to be on the hairline. You want to be at the nape or behind the ear you got to leave enough hair around the perimeter. You got to leave enough hair out from the the natural swirl from the part you got to have enough hair to cover up the bonds, otherwise your bonds are going to show through right, and so that was one of the important parts so the baseline, i was Going to talk about is, i think, i'm going to show the start or the beginning or the least amount of hair. You can do first in a few different techniques here and then i'm gon na move into where i go for a full head. So what i found is that the higher row strands, whether you're putting a weft in high you put individual strands up high, that top row to me is has always been the most important row i didn't realize in the beginning, like i said, we'd start down here. Just start running extensions going up, even if it was wefts or whatever, but sometimes we would get about up to the it was lunchtime because it took so long to do then we'd come back and start working on one of the sides and sometimes run out of Hair before we got to the other side, and that's when it was like a oh, my god, what am i thinking and so then you sort of had to learn how to spread out evenly. So this was another problem. Solver here was using the first little bit of hair. I have, and then thinking is the bottom row or the top row most important. Well, the top is well for one thing, this little bit of hair, that's on top. I don't know if y'all can tell, but that is supposed to be hair yeah. That'S my artistic rendition of human 100, human hair that is remy, human remy, sharpie and so silky smooth right. This is a brazilian hair and so from the part to here uh. It'S brazilian supposed to be the best hair on the planet right now, if you ask some of the yeah it's trending yeah, i mean i don't. I don't know what brazilian brazilians are giving up their hair, but that's the rumor so anyway, the the client's hair from the part to here is hanging over the top of that extension. So, if my hand is the extension, the only hair that's hanging over it is that little bit and that's where it blends with the extensions, and so that's the only color blend that matters. So the top row for color blend the top row for think about this ears when you're putting extensions in in the back, you've only got the width of the hairline here before you can start to get high enough like about this level before you can start to Get hair on the sides of the face, so the client is, is only seeing the sides in the mirror. They don't even care, what's going on back here for a little while care later, if somebody makes fun of them. But by doing the top row you blend better with less hair over the top. You'Ve got the color blend just right, because you might be trying to do blind brown. If you have strands if you're doing a weft, you got one darker. One lighter put the one up top that blends with the hair the best, and then this is the other thing you're getting past this point and you're getting hair on the side of the head. So look all the way up to here this strand here. Do you see where it falls almost over the eye, whereas, if i'm lower like over here i'm way back here and that's when you put hair not far enough forward and you've got the client's hair, the shelf or the demarcation or the whatever the um disconnection? And so that that doesn't that's not as prominent when you go up high because you're able to go further forward and give that about that. Yep go ahead, a lot of stylists because they want to come close to the hairline and the the side of the head. Isn'T that wide on most people they they just kind of loop it all together into one full section. So my question is: how important is it like? In my opinion, i think it's super important, but i want to throw the question to you. I always take from the top of the head to the top of the ear, and i split the front half of the head and the back half of the head. Yes, they get connected together, but i treat them separately. What do you say to that? You know i've seen a lot of stylists. Do that treat them separately. I have it. I feel like this kind of pulls it all together, but boy i was gon na. Do all right, so i'm not following my plan as a normal hairdresser squirrel. What'S up squirrel, so this is going to kind of answer your question. The black line again is still the top line and the bottom line. This is individual strands. This is a pattern i drew for she hair, and this is where i treat the back separate from the from the uh the side separate from the back, and you can kind of see it in my pattern now. I can see that because, because i did a top row and a bottom row, it fills in where there might have been some missing hair. If i i've seen too many hairdressers treat the side and the back separately and yes, they draw a line here. But then they start away from the line here and they start away from the line here and they end up leaving some gap in the middle. That doesn't blend really well. So by having the top row and the bottom row, i purposely left the gap so that i could kind of cover that when people ask that question in class - and here the gap is almost filled, these strands are really close to these. But there's still a little gap here, but it gets filled with those couple of bonds and two or three in this area. So by doing a top row and a bottom row, it ties everything together i was i was saying not to leave a gap. I was saying to figure out like this hair falls forward. This hair falls backwards like where, where the hair lives like, where, where i know you're not falling, i know you're not saying leave a gap on purpose, but i've seen it. I see what you're saying yeah a gap ends up getting created, because then they only focus on placing here and they only focus on placing there and they don't think about staying away from that part, they made to separate point two and they stay away from that Part and then it ends up being a bigger gap. Well, here i find that that top row all the way around ends up solving a lot of problems. The blend problem, the color problem, the hair far enough forward, so that it's over the eye. All of those challenges are covered and then uh. It also gets enough hair spread out evenly on the head. That now i can think. Okay, how much hair do i have left and i can spread it evenly on the head most of the time. In my opinion, the next most important thing are the sides over the back. So i finished the sides. First, i make the client's face face and brain happy before i make the the back of the head happy that way, especially when i'm doing a long service like this, i want them happy as soon as possible in the service, and that starts by doing the top Row they're already flipping their hands through the hair, which i don't love but they're, loving it and i'm loving that they're loving it and then i duct tape their arms down to the armrests of the chair. So i can finish my circus and, and then at that point this is an easy technique for me to teach it. I just call it a one, two, three pattern: after the top row and bottom row, look i put five strands in on the the part side, the short side, one in here two in here, because it's a little higher on this side, because the parts on the Other side, okay and three in the back so on the average size head. I literally have done this pattern. Hundreds of times works out every time. Now, when i put the one there. Let me talk about this. I said average size head a smaller head. I'M gon na go one less on all the red orange rows on a bigger head. I'M gon na go uh, one more, which would make this two one more on each of these rows and of course i would order a little less hair or a little more hair depending. But i do the top row bottom row on almost everybody. No matter what average size head is a one two three smaller head, you would could imagine these would be closer together. I don't need this hair in the middle, so it'd be a zero and then just a one and then maybe just two in the back and then on the think of something so we're talking about the rows, because we know what we're talking about. We know how many rows we need to put in to fill in that density, to match it up, but i think that's what gets missing a lot? Everybody focuses on how much hair they need and how many rows they need. How do you know? How do you, how can you tell how much hair is enough, hair to equal the length and the blend and everything to match with the hair that you're installing the the extension, the hair extensions into the person's natural hair next week next week? Okay, i got i got, i got math for that and i i know okay yeah, so i'm kind of covering this on the placement patterns this week then yeah yeah yeah, because i was thinking i got that answer, but that's another 20 minutes, and so i'm kind Of saying it here, because in my head i have and i'll cover it really quickly here for those that get it, but we could cover in more detail next week, because here this is a hundred and fifty strands of a stranded technique. But this is a keratin bond. This is a k-tip bond when you're heating it up and putting it in you can you can flatten it out, make it a little flatter and it'll end up exactly that wide, because i've done i've done the measuring with a little tape measure and i've counted the Bonds on this head and it's right at 150 strands, but then at the same time, if i'm putting like eye tips or my beaded strands, the uh, the full head, they're they're closer together, you see so i drew them, and so i wrote on here 150 strands. I got 75 single plus and 75 double because, with our beaded strands you can uh, i color coded it too. So with our beta strand, you can use a little thicker one, which we call a double density and then a single plus, which is about 60 percent. The density, so i started, measuring and trying to figure out if i were going to put about 150 strands on the head, like i do with the others. Where would i put them when i started measuring and putting them in about as close together as they actually go on a full head and circling around i started noticing oh wow they're closer together, there's more strands, there's a what is there 60 strands on that top Row instead of 30., so double the amount. So i think uh it gets difficult when you start asking how much and density and all but roughly you've got to have in your head. A baseline, like most heads, take this much hair and then, if i noticed, a girl has thicker hair, bigger head short hair. Those are the three categories that make you need more hair. Then you need more and more and more, and so with a smaller head. Finer thinner, hair and long fine, thin hair. You don't need as much hair, so it's less less less and you have to decide where your categories are, for less less less, with chi hair go ahead to me: you're describing full head for length and volume and fullness. That'S why you're keeping all those bonds so close together like that, so mostly right, mostly, i am doing full heads hey. I do have to admit this was part of my class tuesday because of the luxury of traveling, the country teaching classes. I'Ve got to learn the cultural differences of the country, we're in louisiana. We, like more, i mean we're we're right next door to texas and you know everybody kind of jokes everybody everything bigger in texas. We like a lot of hair, the the higher the hair. You know the more the hair to higher hair closer to god and we are in the bible belt. We are in the bible belt, trying to get closer to god through our hair. Now i did notice that when i travel the country, it's crazy, more northern uh, east and west less hair, a little more hair to the west. A little less hair to the east and people will say that roughly 90 to 110 strands. They do a full head and i'm always shocked. We got a girl in montana that puts one weft in and almost all her full heads. We put at least two most of the time, and sometimes three i'll show you in a minute, so we called 150 strands an average full head uh. Other parts of the country call 100 to 110, a full head, that's a big difference in amount of hair yeah. So i'm definitely showing patterns that are more southern, more full heads, more full thick heads and a lot of the celebrities are doing this. I know you put a little less hair, you can save money, and so that can sometimes be the case. Also - and we'll do that also, i don't think it's so much about the money more so than it is the mentality of the maintenance you don't. The head doesn't feel as heavy. You can go wash and go a little quicker, even though you're not supposed to like in chicago. For example, 150 pieces is considered a lot of hair yeah. So it's it's, but but it's my baseline, because if i'm going with a thicker, fuller hair because they have a bigger head and need more hair, i'm gon na i'm going to go to 180 to 200. 200 pieces right yeah. And so what i did with this lady with our beaded strands. I just noticed that uh, because i'm putting so many more in, i don't need a row in the middle as often, but i do end up putting two rows in the middle over here and all i'm doing all the single plus density on the side, the head And doing double in the back to thicken it up so two rows of single plus and then i run they're 25 strands per pack. So i started counting just to kind of see where i would darken and do the thin ones compared to the thicker ones and then just one row in the middle here. So this is kind of a hodgepodge of zero uh two and then just one in the middle. It works. But it's basically the same thing focus on the top and the bottom row then fill it in the middle. Where needed that's kind of what. So then, for the baseline pattern for the front of the head, it's really important. It really is important to put at least two rows, one low and one high. That'S a good point yeah. I think so i think so about 10 10 to 20 pieces for the front generally fills in the the whole front of the head, and then it's not as important to put a row this way, but maybe four or five kind of coming down in this way Options yeah: what is that yeah for the face framing blending around the front yeah? So i got some other patterns uh here also, you know tape. Ins have been so popular for so long and even with our beaded weft, you can cut it and put it in in small sections like a tape in so i drew this to kind of cover, tape, ends or cut up wefts into pieces and again what you Just said, here's the two row thing two rows all the way around, but the parts kind of deep on this side. So i wanted to show people like what do you do with all that section up here, maybe put a little bit more hair just up there up by itself, but for the most part i got two rows in maybe a little too close to the ear. Here. You know that can all be adjusted, but here i wanted to mostly impress upon people that i don't like to put tape. Ins at any kind of an angle for the most part gravity pulls on them evenly like this, and when you tilt a tape in at an angle, some people say it pulls more in the bottom part of the angle. I think it pulls more at the top, especially when they're brushing they're hitting that top part first, even if they're brushing backwards. I can hit that top first and there's just more stress on a piece. That'S angled. Most people want to do the angle this way because they say they're pulling the hair back yeah, that top edge just keeps getting knocked on knocked on and comes loose faster and comes out, and then that's what also causes it to twist onto itself and that causes A hell of a lot of tangling right, no cursing, that's a bad bad day. I don't like doing that at all. To me, i found through bad experiences that uh short pieces tape, weft what tape in extensions or even weft extensions uh, any kind of track type extension. I just found that if you go parallel to the ground, it's it's best sure they're going to look down. Look back but, for the most part, they're looking straight forward, the head shaking is all in this area. It'S all the hair will still style pretty good. Yes, there's limitations with bigger chunks of hair, there's limitations with the wefts there's a lot more freedom with uh with strands and everything you saw me do there were strands right next to each other, because i love walls of hair, but you can space them out. You can take a piece of tape and fold instead of sandwiching. Two, like the common practice, is to take one tape and take a second tape and sandwich them together. You ever take one piece of tape and fold it over on itself, just just one single tape: yeah, it makes it a little bit smaller, but you can customize and you can get a little bit easier angles, especially if you're worried about the hair falling in a Particular direction or being able to move in a particular direction. True, and then you know just a little pro tip and a a personal thing. I never did like folding it, because when you, when you fold it the the part where it folds is a little thicker than where it's not. It'S always wanted to fold it over and cut it and make two small pieces and stick them together, like that sure. So it didn't have that bend around on the one end. It'S a lot faster just to fold it around, but i took the extra time and cut it and then put one underneath put the one on top. Did it just like a regular tape in, but just a mini or micro, because most of the reusable adhesives i always fold it because then you can unfold it. It'S one solid piece: it's just easier to put the reusable adhesive over and it's not cutting it is. Is gon na make it more flat? I agree sure so it's just preference you're right and then, if we move into wefts we would move into weft extensions. Now our left are 12 inches long. This is these mannequin heads are a little on the small side. So i put 11 inches here. Just so people would know, probably could have put another half inch here and a half inch there, but i first just drew it on there, where i thought i'd put it if i was doing her hair and then i measured it, and i was like you know What it's 11 inches, i would have had to cut an inch off, or you know what you know, what makes that come away from the hairline a little bit. There is dipping this down in the back. So when you take an extension, that's straight around like this and you come, you know you come back with the back, that that front gets pulled back a little bit, and so it's one way that you can jet up here and get hair to blend with that Face because this is kind of far back and over the ear same thing over here, but i am doing a middle part here, so i'm showing a little bit more of a symmetrical pattern. If she has a middle part well, then you might get away with putting one left just kind of centered on the head lower than i like here, but this works on a lot of finer, thinner, haired people. It doesn't matter how much hair they have here, because even with their full head of hair - and you look at their ponytail, it's just like 10 strings, barely touching their shoulder, it's fine, thin or uh chemically thinned hair. It might be chemically textured and really thin on the ends, whether it's damage or real life or the or or they just never had good, hair or a person sick, and they lost some hair or or some coveted hair loss whatever it is, they lost some hair And it's really thin on the ends. This wife could sometimes has to go that far down from the hair line or the part, so you don't see it because they need as much of their possible hair to kind of cover it, but it still can be. 10. 14. 18. 22. Inches long. I wouldn't recommend that long on finer, thinner, hair, because their scalp probably can't take the weight and that's another thing. You kind of learn over time. So 14, you know 10, 14. 18 inch. Hair will add a lot of hair to somebody who just needs thickness and doesn't need extra length. So then i go into before i go into two and three west. You want to say anything about why you mentioned something about symmetry. Now you know when you're, showing the rows and they're all going evenly across the head, because it's a mannequin head right, so we're just trying to show the concept of this is the general area of where you want to be with your top row. This is the general area of where you want to be with your bottom row. When you get to the the swirl, the cowlick, on the and and in the crown there i see the thing. What i see the most, especially in classes, is a lot of stylish struggle with symmetry they're they're, so they're so dead, set on getting it nice and even perfect. All the way around that they don't realize when you get to the crown, especially and when you get to the swirl, you need you need to come down, you need to kind of dip down and around or you need to come on a v-shape. Sometimes it or almost it looks like a check mark you know like if if the natural swirl or the colic is off center, not everybody's going to have it perfect and not not everybody's the same. Some people have two sometimes three different colleagues on the end. In their crown, so good point yeah, that's a good point and you have to find that so it's important not to force the style. I always. This is a something that a lot of stylists don't do, even in my own salon, as we've moved to more beaded extensions, sometimes those beads they'll grab on to dirty hair, better than clean hair. So my styles have learned that and thought you know what i don't need to do: a cleansing or prep treatment before extensions. They do fine, if i take them out, put them right back in, but a few finer real slick hairs with maybe even a little bit more of an oily scalp, the beads may slide. Even keratin won't stick really well. So i like to i, like i like systems i like to go through a process. I am going to clean everybody's hair. So if i took extensions out, there is no way i'm going to work on dirty hair, just who i am i'm going to cleanse their hair and that helps solve a lot of the problems that you're just now talking about too, because um client comes in. I'M not going to just do their hair because they styled and they might have force styled it where i don't know where their hair splits in the back, and so they put a round brush in it and totally got rid of their their cowlick. I'D love to do a whole session on colic like what is the real word, what does it mean where's it come from, and is it really a cow licking something or is it spelled differently anyway? No i'll make a note. So so what i do is when i prep hair, it's cleaned, really well dawn, dishwashing detergent! That'S what i'm going to strip the hair with we've talked about it before they use it on the animals after animal spills, it's safe to use many times on the hair, but yeah. Not it's not recommended to go home and shampoo, your hair, all the time with it before clarifying uh put it in and rinse it two or three times get it squeaky, clean and then brush the hair, just kind of put it on the left right or center. Wherever they do straight down comb it brush, it start drying. What i like to do is put them under a hood dryer and just go over there and just kind of move the hair a little bit and let that hood dry work for me. While i prep my station and my hair, let i always love that people call the hood dryer, some really successful, stylists call it their assistant, because that hood dryer can be an assistant, a non-paid. Well, you pay for it once, but a non-paid assistant. It saves you time, saves your your arm, your wrist, all that well blowing, but it also reveals the colics, the swirls, the crown the tornadoes, the hurricanes, whatever they are on your head, and so as as you dry, it you'll see it like pop open here or Here, like you said, sometimes there's three of them: there's one sometimes two and rarely three, but they might split open and one's going to split further down in another, and if that hair splits open right here, then i take a silver tail comb and i'm like look At this, oh, i can see the comb right there through the split, so i go under the split until i don't see the silver comb and when i don't see it, i thought you know what this bright silver tail comb, which i know this is a pen Guys, if i can't see this bright silver tail comb underneath that dried hair, then you won't see the extensions which are the same color. So i pick up the hair there and that's the highest point i'm going to put extensions here, but over here it might be a little higher. So yeah, like you, said a v. I might be going all the way down to that spot here and then back up and around over here. So i kind of do that little test all around this crown area and try to find my highest point. I can put extensions in three different points here and then tie them into same thing with this part, put the silver tail comb in there and see what how close can i get and still hide extensions. So that's why that crown generally becomes about 30 or 40 pieces of hair, because you got to get all the way around it and you got to come all the way across that too right right, you no shortcut! You got to go the long way around. You'Ll be coming around, i'm not going to sing today go on. We went from one left to two: here's, the mo the most common, and do you see this is where we dipped it a little bit and i love side parts because that's mostly what we have, and so i did i did draw like here's the nose. You know so i did draw the side part here and you were right. You say hairdressers. I went a little deeper there on purpose, but people struggle with uh. They struggle with uh side parts because hairdressers think of it as just normal, symmetrical because we're so used to seeing it, but it's it's not symmetrical. Um a side part is an asymmetrical style and because of that, you've got to go with look here's my top row on this side. Here'S my top row on that side, but look at that. You are way off yeah. So my top row is, i am going more symmetrical and not exactly from the part you see way over here, i'm going about an even distance from the part. So i have the same amount of hair here and the same amount of hair here hanging over that weft. Now i'm going to show you another head in a minute with three wefts and i wouldn't have to do this. But if i'm gon na do two - and i want them to go all the way around - i'm going much higher, so here's the back and i tried to get away from this as much as possible by dropping. That is what pulled this back. You know - and so maybe here, because the parts on this side - maybe i want this - will have to come a little further here. So it falls over the eye better and then i would sacrifice on this side by that coming back a little bit and then maybe this one would come forward, but you know there's a lot of little alterations. You can do with the blue line. That'S my second left, oh and i um i did one single and one double. I should have drew them in the right. Colors generally, i would do a uh, a single plus density up high, a finer thinner, one up top to kind of blend in and put the thicker one here to build my thickness and my length down here, because it's going to be it's going to follow that Much longer when we get down here, so i kind of just split the difference between here and the bottom. With with where that center one is, and then the same thing here, because it's a little lower than splitting the difference. It'S always better for pulling hair up. But i could have probably went a little higher there, so that's two wefts for us now. Obviously, if the hair was parted in the middle, it would just be. It would be two like this. You know just put put down a little higher put a second one in maybe drop the back a little bit and have them at this at this at this angle, but we could fit two in and they could be symmetrical if we have a center part. What were you going to say when you're doing that with the bonds? That'S when we split them when we cut the bonds in half and and what we refer to as microbonds, you know half bonds, so you can go that allows you to be able to go higher up. You'Re, that's about the equivalent of 20 pieces up up! On top, would you say where, if, if, if you're going that high up, like you, did with that weft, if you do the same thing with the bonds and you split them in half, did that become about 20 micro bonds? I see what you're saying so. I'M always yep, i'm always doing about five when i'm doing sides little rows of five or six and so uh. If i'm, if i want to tell you what's going on here, 5 10, 15 they're whole bonds and then 5 10, 15, 20.. So, just depending on how close to the part you're right somewhere between 15 and 20., and then, if i were to uh, cut them in half to make them finer, it's going to be going to be double that it's going to be double that and then so. Then, okay, so then that that's the crown that's the swirl, now the occipital bone, you know when you're placing keratin bonds or k-tips or the even the beaded strands. You know flat beaded strand extensions, any type of hair extensions when you get to the crown. There is a big difference between placing hair extensions above excuse me, i'm saying the crown the occipital bone, placing hair extensions above the occipital bone and below the occipital bone. So talk to that a little bit, what's the big difference between what what happens when you're, placing it above versus below, i like, i like what you're saying there and these heads don't represent that as well and everybody's head's a little bit different, but just like we Talked about just like we talked about here last week: uh geometry is what comes into play. This is going to be a three weft head by the way and we'll get into that in a minute. Some of you guys can look ahead and kind of see. What'S going on here, but when geometry comes into play the heads round, so there's so much going on, but when we're talking about how far forward we're putting hair the this hair line, it's usually not even that straight up and down a real person. It starts a little further back and it's kind of it's a diagonal this way and that's why the higher you go the further. You can come this way closer to the nose to get hair up here same thing on the back of the head. What you're talking about? Usually this is a little more pronounced back here and, if you think about it, when you're doing a a track, a weft you're cabling for sewing wafts in with the little cornrow, braid or you're doing uh. Oh man, any kind of uh hand tied extensions if you're putting your beads your tied, your notch, your braids on the part of the head, it sticks out the furthest. Well then, what are you doing? You'Re just making it stick out even further. So then, when this hair hangs over it, it kind of wants to hang through it. It wants to lay on it really hard and reveal where the extensions are. So that's a good thing to think about try to stay away from the part of the head. That sticks out the most and some people's are a little more pronounced, so you're better if you're a little above it or a little below it, because this part of the head will jet that hair out over your extensions that are in just below, let's say, you're. Just sticking out right here: well then, this would be just below it and this this shelf, a hair, will fall over and you can build your ridge out with putting extensions in and not be seen and similar. Above it, you can kind of build it out and it'll just hang and blend in with the part of the hair, that's natural that is already protruding further out, so that that's that's a very advanced thing. To figure out most people don't figure that out for a long time and - and it doesn't actually show much as much on the side the head. So you can be coming through this area here and then have to worry about getting under it or being just above. It does that cover what you were kind of talking about, also and then when, when you're putting the bonds when you're putting bonds in what's um. What is that about 20 pieces like like when you're, when you're at about the mid middle part of the head right behind the ear and you're right above the occipital? Oh yeah, so could be 30, maybe depending on the size of somebody's head? Well, when you've been doing this too long too long, it's it's uh. 7. 9. 13. 15.. One, two, three, four, five, six, seven eight is nine on this head. I have found that after i put my bottom row in and i'm going to put a little row in down here, it's funny because it's a small head but she's got a wide hairline, which is usually not the case, but most of the time uh. It'S a good point. What you just said is this hairline: it gets it's skinny down here and it gets it gets wider as it goes up as it because because of this round head this ball, this oddly shaped ball, because it's not a perfectly round ball either. You'Ve got flat parts of the ball. You got round parts uh, so on the back of the head, if you're down low, it's about five to seven or eight depending on the size of the head about seven strands down low and somewhere in the middle, is roughly 12 to 15 strands, and it does Start to get more, if you go up high and on a thicker, haired client, you would want to go higher and have more hair to blend with that top row of of layering into their hair. If you're trying to make it look good without having to curl it, so that i think that answers a lot of questions at the same time, but the thing i wanted to go into here is the three wefts very often uh, with hand-tied wefts. You can't cut them, so i know what people are doing to get little short ones like this is they're folding them in half or you know, most of you guys are stacking them four, five, six deep anyway. So if you just take one skinny one and fold it in half two or three times, you'll have your three or four thickness, and then you can put it in as a short weft down here. So i would say similar now we did do a side. Part similar to everything else, we did we're going to put two wefts in my wefts. My uh beaded strands are: are uh 12 inches long, so i measured now put two in all the way around like this two wefts all the way around and then what's common for me is to take a third weft and cut it up now. My third weft - i did some measuring, i cut the i put it as the blue line, put two rows down low, four and three inches and it all adds up to 11 inches. So i could have put one more inch somewhere. So here is the top, because the side that the parts on is over what over the left eye - and so i have more hair jetting over the right eye and this this weft. I did a little more. Let'S see if i put my hands where the orange line is see, the the weft is a little more symmetrical. It'S a little higher on this side. But if i wasn't going to put a third weft, i would have did like that 2f system and brought this up a little further and farther forward. But knowing this client had really thick hair, i needed to put a lot of hair in. I need a third weft, maybe even three double densities. If i'm really trying to build some fullness, then i can put this blue one is all one weft. You know. I cut it up to put a three inch here, a four inch there and then another four inches up here and i probably could have let it go a half inch back this way in this way and got that whole because right now i want to be Honest and tell people what i measured, it was 11 inches, but i purchased and sold a 12 inch weft. So why not try to use the whole 12 inches, so i probably could have put a little more up there or add a little tiny bit to each one of those think of something too the two blue lines on the back of the head. There that's below the occipital, so that's all going to create a lot of length, especially when you're putting in the keratin bonds. That'S where all the length is going to start being established for that weight line if you're trying to create, if you're, trying to extend past their natural past or natural length of their hair right yeah, it is. But it's also it's also a challenge because it's going to add length only in the center only in that center. That'S why that black line that you got the main line that you got! That'S really: what's going to give you that's, what's going to start establishing you, so if you go back so if you keep that one and then go back to your bond mannequin, real quick and then this also because it follows kind of the hairline going up like That follows going up. It gives you a more natural look down here if you're, trying to take advantage of the majority grab that other mannequin real, quick, which one which one the bond one the one with all the squares with all the bonds in it, they they're like look at that. It'S it's they're, they're, very closely, trying to resemble each other with the pattern yeah, so you're trying to mimic the same thing and that's really really cool, because that's what's important for establishing a weight line when you're trying to add length, you know that's the main thing For everybody, that's trying to add length what happens when you start spacing too far apart when you start spacing the bonds too far, apart from each other and they're, not side by side. Well. Well, then, your picture ends up on those walmart videos, the people of walmart. That'S what happens the the more you space bonds apart, the better side by side, the more like a highlighted effect it's going to create at the bottom, and it's going to look like spaghetti string. Oh, so listen there's, there's a time and place for it, because i believe that there's a lot of placement patterns, gender, you know, there's a different word for it and i forget um one for like how your patterns and then placement two different things. You know we're showing mostly placement, even though we're calling them patterns the uh. The the patterns can be bonds right next to each other, but then that next row can be right under it. Basically, don't leave any stone unturned and completely do it or you can put rows in have space between them or you can put space between the bonds and have like a like a checker board. Imagine you're just doing where the black black squares are, but then, underneath that you fill in the gaps, kind of bricklay and a lot of people do that because they think the bonds are going to get tangled or tied together. If you put them too close together. Well, the hairs right next to each other in wefts and hand-tied extensions weft extensions. So i don't think that that's as big a problem as people think, unless you're using low quality, uh non-remy hair, that's gon na tangle anyway, but the time and place to use it is when you're not adding length. When somebody has hair this long and you're just thickening the hair and you're going to stay here, it doesn't matter where you put it, there's not going to be a separation. Here'S the problem. This is where my hair ends and then, when i put extensions in if i have the bonds right next to each other well, it looks really good coming out from underneath. But if i come out from underneath and i put space between them, it looks like this, and so this is my hair, and this is the extensions what's going to fill in the gap. The brick light is what they say, but it's still even when you put them in and they bricklay they never really blend. Well, i would rather put my rows further apart and have solid rows. That'S why wefts look look so good! Oh god, i just hit my computer. So that's why wefts look so good down at the bottom they're a little bulky on the head, if not done right, but they look good at the bottom and tape ends also because they're big wide sections of hair that blend better. That'S why i always like putting my individual strands, no matter what technique i'm doing right next to each other, unless we're doing highlights low lights, i like to say red light: green light um, but also just thickening. If you're thickening, a bricklay, brick lay pattern that right clay pattern, wow just didn't sound right, they get stumped, they get stumped on a word, so yeah bricklay pattern: you can space them out. It doesn't protrude past the ends of the hair. So it can go anyway. Where and that's when, where that that's, when you can take like one one pack of strands - and this is uh, this is one pack of beaded strands and so there's 25 in a pack so stay with the math guys.