Extend Event May 2 - Holli Cadman |Tape-In Placement For High Ponytail Up-Styling

Hey check it out hi. My name is holly cadman and i'm here with paul mitchell to do a dimensional blonde installation for you. So today our goal is to keep her nice and cool and ashy with creating some slight dimension throughout, but also an application. That'S going to be easy for up styling and doing high ponytails, because we all know that. That'S what we're wanting to do these days so, first to start, you want to make sure that you're using appropriate, clean sections throughout your entire application. I'M going to start by sectioning off just the front of the head from the back of the head to keep myself nice and clean and organized now. This is a luxury service, so you want to make sure that, throughout the service that you are maintaining um guests face being clear of hair okay. So i'm going to just use my flon pro clip here, i'm going to clip this in front, but again keeping her face clear so that she's able to work or do what she needs to do throughout the service. I'M just going to repeat it on the opposing side: okay and again just pulling it forward and using my font pro clip and clipping this up out of the way here now, depending on what is happening on your guest's natural hair. If she's got some pretty serious growth patterns happening out here feel free to section this off and isolate all of those growth patterns to keep it nice and clean for you for her she's got pretty even growth throughout, so i'm just going to start by sectioning off My nape area, because we are going to be focusing on up styling and bringing up a high pony. You want to make sure to leave it off of your hairline, roughly an inch to help conceal those tabs for you. I'M going to drop down an inch, making sure that i have nice clean sections. It'S worth taking an extra minute to clean up your sectioning so that you have ease and guest care at home now to double check to make sure i've left enough hair down. I'M going to gather this hair, i'm going to lay my tail comb right on my part and i'm going to lift this hair up and make sure that i'm concealing that comb itself. That'Ll tell me that i have enough hair to conceal any sort of up styling that will be happening with this extension application. So for our model here, because she is so light - we're going to go in with color 60 and color 18, but i am going to texturize color 18, so it doesn't overpower the blonde. I'M going to start with my deluxe at the bottom. So, with our deluxe tape tabs, you can see that they come up onto the tab itself, so it looks like the hair is growing out of the head. Okay, so i'm going to start with those and then put a color 18 on top, because i want her to be blonde when she pulls this up. We want to make sure the lightest brightest blonde is on the bottom of our sandwich. If you're worried about she's got some flyaways, i'm going to tilt your head down for me perfect, i can come in control those flyaways and use a tighter clip to help keep my section nice and clean and neat i'm going to make sure i'm staying off of The side hairline as well doing the same technique with the tail comb to ensure that i have coverage of that tape. Tab when i go ahead and pull it up for my up style, i'm going to take a nice skinny section here clean this up really fast. Here we go: okay, i'm going to open up my section place, my color number 60 on the bottom here place. It underneath make sure i'm exposing my part line roll down, and it should adhere now because she is really blonde, and i want to ensure that i'm not overpowering her with the darker low light that we're putting in of the color number 18. I am going to take a moment to texturize this so to texturize this to help keep her nice and cool and ashy you're going to hold the tape tab itself, you're going to go in with your texturizing scissors and lay the scissors right underneath the tape tab, Ensuring that not cutting the tape tab and just run your scissors through like a comb. This will soften it and make it look more like a baby light and not overpower that blonde. Remove the backing line, it up clear your sides to ensure that you have no hair over directed into that tape. Tab that'll cause tension on your sandwich, go ahead and seal that down and comb it into place. I'M then going to do my next section again using our deluxe on here. I'M going to place my next sandwich, making sure that i'm nice and close with my next tape tab. So you can see that i'm leaving just a hair in between dropping down to expose that part line roll down. I'M going to do the same thing with this 18 come in texturize use the scissors as a comb to comb through and place it. On top with my flat tail comb, clear my sides and seal because of being so far up off of the nape hairline, i'm able to squeeze in one more sandwich here so again, taking my part right from my last section so again, taking my section from where I ended on my last sandwich rolling up again, placing it really close, texturizing my color number 18., placing this on top bring my sides and comb down. You'Re then, going to drop down your next row we're going to take just about a half an inch based on her density, keeping it nice and clean. You can make sure that you're taking an appropriate amount of hair as well, because when you comb down your section should disappear into the extensions if you're seeing a hard line through here. That tells you you have too much hair in between or we need to go in and soften their natural hair, because maybe they have a more of a blunt cut. So you can see here how her natural hair is disappearing into the extension. So that tells you that you have the appropriate amount of hair in between. So i'm just going to clean up my section now in the nape area to make sure that you're building in density without leaving any holes or gaps, we are going to snake or zigzag up the nape area. So in the first row i worked right to left. So in this next row, i'm going to work left to right in order to ensure that i'm filling in any gaps that may happen. I can also see my tape tab underneath here, so i'm going to make sure that i'm slightly brick laying each one of them. So that it builds in even density through that bottom hairline, i'm going to do the same two colors with 60 and 18.. However, this time i'm going to place 60 on top and i'm going to go in with both standards. Since i'm in the interior of my hair, now i'm not worried about any of the tape tabs being exposed. So i'm going to start with my color number 18.. I will soften this. One then take my section making sure that i'm staying about a quarter of an inch to a half an inch off of that hairline, so that we can do our up styles, placing my color number 18 in dropping down to expose the part line roll down. I will then come in with a standard 60 and place that right on top clear my sides to make sure i have nothing over directed into that sandwich, seal the sandwich and comb down. So you can see how she has starting to build in that dimension, but is still looking overly bright. Okay again, i will start by texturizing. My color number 18. skimming my section wider than what i need so that it all lays down flat into my sandwich and then again a standard number 60 on top, which is that lightest brightest blonde clear my sides now, when applying your extensions, one of the most Important things is that you have your nice clean neat rows for your guests at home. They will need this neatness of your section, so they're able to come in and shampoo easily to help maintain scalp care, as well as you run, into fly-aways, make sure to control them. Also making sure that when you're putting your sandwich together that you're taking extra care and lining up your tape tabs so when i go to place this top one on top of my sandwich, my color number 60 here i want to make sure that my tapes are Totally lined up so i'm taking a second to make sure that my corner matches my corner matches that'll, make sure that there's no adhesive hanging out anywhere that could grab hair. That'S not supposed to be with that extension that can create create some matting and tension and discomfort for your guest as well. Okay, so again grab my 18. and this will be the last one in this row. So you can see here that it'll be a little bit more off of the hairline on this side than on the opposite side. I'M not overly concerned about that because i am doing that zigzag or that snake sectioning in the back here so i'll catch. Some of this in the next row to help keep density nice and even without putting one too close to the hairline where then it could be exposed. Okay, so i'm going to drop down my last section in my nape area here again about a half an inch. I'M making sure that as i'm combing down that that's all blending together clean up my section in this row because i did right to left then left to right - i'm going to work right to left again and that will catch that corner. Where we left a little bit of a gap at that hairline, i'm going to do the same color placement that i did on my second row with the 18 underneath and the 60 on top i'm going to control. She has some kind of finer hair right here. So i'm going to lift this up and use my tighter clip to help control that section skimming right from the hairline okay. So again, i'm just going to make sure that i'm leaving it about a quarter of an inch to a half an inch off of that hairline using a wider section than what i need so that when i place my extension here and i roll down it's going To lay flat on top of that at natural hair fall, this is also going to allow your extensions to grow out really smoothly by keeping them horizontal and that natural hair fall. They will tend to flip and move a little bit less clear. My sides and comb down okay and then again texturizing, so you can see with just having three rows in or two and a half really right now how much density is already being built, so you don't have to stack the rose in super heavy down here to Build in that density to mirror what's happening on her natural hair, this will also help you speed up your application time in the salon. So you could do more extensions. In a day there we go, i'm just continuing to move this tighter clip throughout my application to help hold all of those flyaways in place. Okay and texturizing, you want to be mindful when you are choosing to texturize something. So it's not quite so bold that you really only want to do it once once you go in and start texturizing more than that you're going to lose too much density in the extension and that hair color then will be lost. So, by only doing it once you're still able to see that dimension come out, but it just is softer more like a baby light versus a slice. If you were foiling okay and we'll probably be able to fit two more in this row now in this particular spot, this may be a choice, so i could fit one more here. It'S going to be pretty close to the hairline, so i could go in and still do my color number 18 on the bottom, but maybe switch to doing a deluxe right here. Although these are all standard, this is getting closer to her hairline. So adding a deluxe here will help with that concealing. So that's what i'm going to do! I'M going to move my clip over control, this section i'm going to texturize my color number 18 here now by making sure i do this deluxe right here. It'S going to ensure that when i do my up styling later that it's going to help conceal that as well all right - and that is your nape to move on above the ears. We are going to take down a horseshoe shaped section from front hairline to front hairline. The order in which we apply is going to shift slightly, but all of the same rules for keeping your straight sections still apply. So i'm going to start by sectioning off my front section here. I want to ensure that i'm keeping enough room over the ear that she could wear glasses or sunglasses, also tuck her hair behind her ear or wear it up in a high pony. So, by doing that, i'm going to use two finger widths above the ear again taking a horizontal section, just making sure that i'm two finger widths because of her density. I'M going to come just a smidge higher, so you can see i'm just about a half an inch higher than two finger widths, but i can still see through my section and clearly see her ear. So i'm going to leave a little bit extra hair. There gain control over this and i'm going to take time to zulu knot this now, since i'm up above where i'm working, then i'm going to come to the opposing side and i'm going to mirror that same sectioning a little bit above and then from here. I'M just going to connect those two front sections across the back, completing that horseshoe so most likely when you're working in this horseshoe horseshoe shaped section. This will be your last row across the back, so you want to make sure that you have an idea of what you want. Your end result to be back here. I want her to appear, lighter and brighter all over. So, although i'm going to be adding dimension in the front, i will use just my 60s in the back you're going to start on one of your front sides and we are going to ping pong back and forth to ensure even color and even density. So she's got quite a few flyaways here, so i'm just going to control those so same as i did in the snape area. I'M going to use my deluxe 60 on the bottom. Here i'm going to grab one of those i'm going to stay off of her front hairline because we are going to be doing an up style. So you can see here how fine her front hairline is, so i'm going to leave out about two finger widths right here, because that will pull back and conceal any extension that is happening behind that. So this will start kind of at a weak point on the hairline, so we're right over that mastoid process area here. Adding a deluxe here as well will have help add a little bit of density to that spot. That can often leave a hole. Okay, then again texturizing my 18, placing it on top combing down. Then i will do the same on this side. Grab my tighter clip help control fly aways. We want to make sure that we are staying an even amount off of that front hairline on both sides. So that we're creating a same look from side to side, so ping pong in here is great, because you can use your mirror and your salon as a tool as well to help ensure that you're staying the same distance and you're. Creating the same density and same color placement from side to side as you go perfect now that i am working back over part of the head that i've already worked extensions into i'm going to switch my color placement and i am going to do just 60s through Here to keep her light and bright on the top, if you're working in your section, you notice that slightly off take a minute to make adjustments. That'S totally fine! You would rather make an adjustment than have your section get off track: okay, perfect and because i'm not worried about any hair growth patterns happening back here, i'm going to switch to all standard 60. pulling up, removing the backing, making sure they're, nice and close. We are still right behind that mastoid process, so we want to build in any density right in here that we can to help conceal that weak point on the hairline. I'M going to bounce back to the other side. Take my next section and you will continue ping-ponging until you reach center back perfect now something to keep in mind here is: if you have someone that is a avid extension wearer, meaning they wear them. Often you could work higher up on the head. If this is a first time extension client, you want to make sure to leave them enough space of their natural hair above your last row that they can easily conceal them for ease of styling, as they wear extensions. More and more often, you can continue to add more and more density, which is a fun way to switch up a look okay. Now, for at home maintenance, you want to make sure that they're using sulfate free shampoos, the recommended shampoo, is going to be the aopa moisturizing lather, shampoo and keratin cream rinse. Also heat protectant is a great option for their extensions. It'S going to help, keep them soft and keep the damage down. Neural. Protect is a great option. It'S going to help with reduce of heat transfer, so it helps keep them in really good condition. Okay, now, as we come around the round of the head, you can start to see kind of how much space you have left. So i think i can fit three across here if you want to pause and measure and make sure you're more than welcome to. So if i imagine one two, three hers fits nice and smoothly if, for some reason, it's a kind of awkward size spacing - and maybe you can fit two with a little bit of extra space in between that'll help, keep your density. Even that's fine. Maybe you still need all three for density, but not quite as much space. So you'll leave a little bit of gap in the center. Then you can either drop down your next section and place it just above or come in just underneath and place it here. Instead of squeezing it in and having them overlap side by side, you don't want them to rub next to each other, because it can start to break down the seal on the side. So you want to make sure, there's a little bit of a gap, but depending on spacing, you can either go a little bit above or a little bit of below if you need it for your density and your overall end result for hers. As long as we stay with the same placement, we're going to be able to get all three sandwiches in here nice and comfortably, there's that one for a standard application where you're not having to squeeze in extra rows or maybe soften every section. As you go, your application should only take you about 45 minutes to an hour, so this shouldn't be a super long drawn out process. You want to make sure that, before you start your application that you are still shampooing twice with your shampoo too, your clarifying shampoo to help remove any dirt and debris oil off of the scalp, no conditioner and then you'll blow dry and smooth with no product. This will make sure that the sandwich itself is adhering to the hair and not to any buildup. That is happening perfect and then our last sandwich will sit center back do and that is your full first horseshoe shaped section. We are going to finish out the left side on this side. We want to make sure that we're still filling in that gap behind the ear at the mastoid process. So, typically, in this second row here, we still will do two to three sandwiches, depending on head shape for her head shape because we're leaving it off the front. Hairline two should be plenty we're still going to be using both colors, both the 18 and the 60. Again, with 60 on top because we're up off of that bottom hairline, so i'm going to grab my darker low-light texturize, come in making sure i'm leaving enough of this front hairline so that i'm able to conceal when we do our up style, i'm going to leave She'S a little bit finer right here in this temple area. So i'm going to leave a full inch here and color number 60 on top and comb down and then i'll repeat that one more time make sure i'm taking a wider section than my extension and then again color number 60 on top and comb down. So then, from here i'm going to drop down this section and see how my end result looks so far so brushing her natural hair in with the extensions seeing if she feels hollow anywhere. She feels pretty full. So that could be my last row. If i wanted to make her look even brighter, you could go in with the third row here, but for her density and dimension. I think she looks pretty good, and that is your application. This is your completed install, so you can see that we have even amount of dimension and coverage throughout the entire head, shape and added length and density. Once you've completed your application, we're going to start our blending shape. The blending shape is just about creating a finished end. Result that blends from her natural hair into her extensions you're, going to start by sectioning out your front two panels. Just like we did to start our application and we're going to start our blend on the front. Hairline extensions look best in a soft, rounded shape across the back, so we want to start that shape in the front here we're going to comb all of the hair forward to preserve even more length. You can over direct all the way across the face if needed. Come away from your guest, if you shake the hair a little bit, all of this natural hair will come out and it will leave just the extension hair left over that you can blend in and we're going to come in with a soft slide, cutting just to Start some facial framing to blend in with what she has less is always more when cutting extensions so start with a little bit, you can always go in and add more so, i'm liking how this is blending, i'm going to pick this up and just add a Little bit more right through the ends to help start to create some of that softness, and you can see how now that's blending really nicely with her natural hair and spin her to the other side and mirror that same thing on the opposing side. Gathering all the extensions together shaking the hair so that that natural hair falls away and come in and start your blend. Cutting extensions is all very visual, come in and point cut to soften this corner a little bit and then you can come to the back. So once you're happy with the symmetry in the front, now we're just going to connect that in the back. So i'm going to brush all this straight down and you'll start to see that roundness happen on both sides and you're just going to connect that in the best way to start is coming from outside to center. With your slide, cutting because you're going to start to create that shape where you cross over in the center, so you end up with a soft bevel versus a point. Once we move to the back, we are going to see where that shape starts. To begin here and we're just going to connect this across center back, you want to come in and come from outside to center and outside to center. So it's going to create a soft kind of bevel in the middle versus a point, so we're going to start with our slide, cutting here, just gently moving our scissors coming across and crossing over center combing down catching any hair that you may have missed and then We'Re going to start on the opposite side so again, coming in here and coming across center. You can come in and soften the bottom, with some point cutting catching any of those little hairs. You may have missed checking for balance as you go, then, if you feel like you need to blend any of the natural hair into the body of the extensions here, you can do a little bit of layering. The extensions do come pre-layered, so it minimizes the amount that you'll have to do that, but you never want to cut low that lower than your last row here. So i'm going to find my last row pick it up. I'M going to spin you just a little bit over direct okay, here's her natural hair, so i can come in and slide cut just a little bit through here, i'm liking that it was only a little heavy right in the center. So again, i'm just combing through seeing. If i see any weight lines, i can soften her natural hair just a little bit if needed as well, come in and point cut the natural maintaining as much length as humanly possible, but that'll just soften it. So it blends right in and that is your blend and shape when thermal styling, your extensions, you want to ensure that you're using appropriate heat and heat protectant products for our model. Today, i'm going to go in with only 300 degrees on my curling iron, since she does have a finer texture and not we only used about five packs of extensions on her, so her density is not extreme here. The easiest way to get them to blend is to take soft, organic sections, meaning not perfectly straight lines, so you can come in and just section with your hand and bring that forward. If you need control over your section, you can gently clip this back today. I'M going to go in with the paw mitchell neuro protect to reduce that heat transfer onto those extensions i'm going to spray, mostly the mid length and ends keeping that oil, alcohol and ethanol off those tape tabs to ensure a good blend on them. You want to make sure that your first bend happens where the hair needs to blend together. So i'm going to start by heating my section i can see here's her natural hair, so i'm going to slide down and make my first bend where that natural hair and the extension meets, then i can continue curling up we're going to leave some of the ends Out here, to create a soft beachy wave for our end result and then drop down and then again here grabbing her front hairline. With this, i'm going to leave a little out for some softness around the front, hairline heating, my section: here's where that natural hair is this time, so i'm going to grab this make my first bend and continue curling and then drop that down alright so again spraying. My heat protectant, i have exposed tape tabs here, so i'm just going to place my hand over to protect them from the spray heat my section and blend in that natural hair to complete the style. You'Ll continue curling in the same direction to center back and then we'll start on the opposing side and curl again away from the face to center back to create a seamless wave throughout her end result. Here is our finished. Look with soft beach wave so for at home maintenance for your guests. You want to take time to coach them through the process before you send them home. This is going to be a new lifestyle change for them. So it's important that they understand that, because we took those nice clean rows that they're able to go in with their hands and clean their scalp between those rows very smoothly and very easily like this. They want to make sure that they're using the sulfate free shampoo that we recommend, so we have our aopui wild ginger moisturizing lather shampoo. This is going to give great moisture to both her natural hair and the extensions to keep them soft and flexible. We also have our aopui keratin cream rinse. This is a great lightweight conditioner, with a low ph, that's going to help smooth down the cuticle on this remy hair to help keep it soft and shiny. Now, with thermal styling, just like we did you're going to want a heat, protectant neural protect is awesome. It has the memory as well as it's going to reduce that heat transfer onto the hair right, as well as with proper shampooing and maintenance. You want to make sure they understand they need to brush their hair two to three times a day with the flop pro brush and train them to comb from the ends up to the base versus from the base to the ends, then they're ready to go for Their eight to ten weeks of wear before they come in for their reinstallation. Here is our final look with a soft textured beachy wave. You can see that we finished it out here with both our iron and our neural protect. So i'm going to spin her around for you guys, so you can see the back and the finish perfect. So you can see here that she's got that soft beachy wave by taking those organic sections a little bit larger, leaving those ends out are going to create that softness and undone style throughout the ends. You can see how healthy and shiny it is with using those products with that neural, protect and prepping the hair with those moisturizing lather shampoo and keratin cream rinse. Here we are with our up style look today, so we have taken our tape, tab extension and pulled it into a high pony and covered the elastic, with a little piece of hair for doing high ponies or up styles with tape and extensions. The key is to make sure that your application is on point, so we talked a lot during the application about leaving it off of her front hairline, making sure that there was enough hair here to cover the tape tab. She still looked full and beautiful with the hair down, but you can see with leaving that a little extra space how much it conceals those tape tabs from side to side with using that brush. That has the two layer of bristles. You can see that you can smooth that hair over the tape tab. So none of that tape tab is exposed here that came from me, flipping the hair up first and then really taking time to brush and clean up any flyaways that happen so that you have a nice clean hairline with no extension showing, and you can see that It'S the same on the opposite side as well, so again here controlling your section and covering that extension. So she has one right about here, but you can see that it's nice and concealed, including the one that's right here, real close to her front hairline as well. The key is to start at the top when pulling the hair into a high pony and gathering from the mastoid to the apex and really gathering that triangle and gaining control over that front area. Also using a brush that has different layers and bristles are going to help as well, because it helps to smooth out not only the outside but underneath as well once you've gained control over the top. Have your guests tilt their head forward just slightly flipping the hair forward over the head, and then you can start to gain control over the sides. You can see here again gaining control without exposing tape tabs using that double layer of bristles on the brush and then gaining control over the opposing side, as well, so making sure that you're pulling it up nice and tight. Once you have all of your hair and you're happy with kind of the coverage of the extensions just take a moment to do one or two last brushes spraying some spray as well, to help lock in what you've done before putting your elastic around the extensions. I'M a huge fan of covering that elastic so by wrapping a little piece of hair around we've secured it with one blonde bobby, pin and added a little barrette for a little pop of flair and there's your up style. Hey