Short Shaggy Bob Haircuts Tutorial For Women | Layered Cut With Razor

How to: Shaggy bob haircut tutorial with Razor for women

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Laser i'm gon na be giving georgia here. George is my model and i'm gon na be giving georgia a like, really short kind of shaggy punk cut, but before we get into the actual creation of the cut itself, i'm doing what's called setting in the hairline. So, as you can see, georgia has a lot of hair like baby hairs at the nape, and what i'm doing is, if you see right here is i just want it to like blend in really nicely, and what that's going to do is it's going to allow The hair that falls down over it to have like better movement - and it's also going to prolong the life of this hair haircut. So she can rock it for months and months, because usually it's around this area when it starts to grow in that people start to feel like they want to get a haircut again. I want georgia to feel like she could go for months and months and just let this haircut evolve and turn into different things as it continues to grow. I'M using what's called the flat of the blade. So when you're cutting with the razor, you want to be cutting with the the edge, which is the sharpest part, but when you're doing refining work like this, you want to work with the flat, and this is gon na help me to blend everything together better and Make it just look more tailored to fit her? It'S such a beautiful little thing that makes such a difference in a haircut like if your hair cut lengths or getting anywhere close to the hairline or above the shoulder this. You know it just makes that haircut number one last so much longer, but you know what i always think about is how pretty it is too. It'S like the lining of a beautiful coat. Like not, everybody knows it's there for the people that get to see the lining and they can say: oh wow, that's so beautiful. You know, because it's just so soft and pretty isn't it. It is so pretty and george has got a great hairline too. So i'm really excited this is actually my favorite part of the haircut yeah. I know exactly what you mean it is. I love that analogy of the lining, because it really is like this special detail that only a few people can get to see, but when you notice it, it just adds a different level of i guess elegance to the cut. How do you analyze a hairline? You said she had a great hairline and i just find i work with so many hairdressers and they're unsure about you know what makes a hairline cooperative what makes a hairline challenging. Well, i i like a challenging hairline, so that's part of what makes it great, but in addition to that, it's just like how the hair wants to just hug the shape of the neck and how it like how it all comes together. To this beautiful point like this, and you can just blend it and the fact that she's got like places where it's less more sparse and then more dense when it all comes together and is blended, it just looks so beautiful um. But i also really love a challenging hairline too. I want to try and get all hairlines to look beautiful and a challenging. One is great because it gets me thinking it gets me like i get into like problem solving mode. You know what i mean so something that i'm thinking about here is i'm looking at the way that the hair grows. So we've got this hair that grows flat down this way, but then you can see this hair is coming in this direction and in order for me to set it in, i have to do a little bit of graduation. So i'm going to just like extend it opposite, the way that it wants to grow and i'm going to cut it with the back of the razor touching the neck and then i'm just slowly gliding the blade over and what that's going to do is it's getting The hair to go from short to long, which enables it to like lay down nicer on the on the nape like that and then any of the stragglers. I just come back in and i i just get them off. Have you ever? You know just kind of gone through the whole head like this. Like you know, say someone wants either a man or a woman who or anyone who wears their hair quite short yeah. Do you think he could go through a whole haircut and just kind of cut free form like this? Absolutely this is how i love to do pixie cuts, because pixie cuts are so delicate and but they're they're very complex as well and in order to make a pixie cut, really look cute on the person, that's wearing it um. I i really tailor make the cut all over the head so that the hair just hugs the head nicely all over and it's a great way when you're going shorter to kind of help to control growth directions, yeah, sometimes just a perfect little clean square haircut. Every growth direction is going to jump all over the place. Definitely we're like working individually piece by piece like this. You can lay it all into the head exactly so, as you can see, i like to take my time and really tailor it. This section falls down this way, but if i look at where the hair is growing out of the head, it's got that curve, so it actually wants to hug the nape. So what i'm going to do is i'm going to encourage it to hug the nape by going down into the direction that the root wants to travel, to encourage it to lay down to the net the neckline better. It'S amazing how much thought just goes into this. I think sometimes people like even the way that you sectioned it. You spent a few. It'S not like just you took a perfect clean little section like you looked at the hairline and you decided what needed to come off and what didn't exactly and - and the other thing too is you want to really listen to where the hair wants to go and Then respond to it, it's kind of like i like to think of cutting hair as like i'm compromising with the hair. I want it to do one thing it wants to do another. How can we work together to make that yeah, rather than beating it into submission, which i think sometimes is you know what a lot of people think they have to do when they cut hair like yeah, i've got to control it instead of working with it. I definitely have been in that mindset a lot and especially when i was a younger hairstylist i felt like i had to be the one that was in charge, but then the hair. I would find myself hiding with the hair to get it to look good. Okay, so we've done that kind of subsection like uh, you know set in the hairline. Now, let's get a look at georgia, we've only seen her hairline hi georgia. How are you are you ready for christian's magic yeah? It'S a big change for you today. Can christian can give us an overview now of what's going to happen with the rest of the hair yeah? So what i'm going to do is i'm i'm. First of all, assessing george's texture. She'S got a really nice healthy, medium texture, um, it's just recently, colored in the swan by our stylist named dana and um this uh. This is a beautiful single process. What i'm going to do is i'm going to take it to mid neck. So it's going to start out as a bob, but then what i'm going to do is i'm going to work with her natural growth patterns and take a lot of weight and and length out the interior. I mean give her like a really fun very punk rock shag style, um so exciting. To see this, i'm excited too here's another thing that i'm really excited about talking about like being excited about necklines, i'm also really excited about growth patterns. What i've got here or not what i've got well, what i've got to work with with what george has got? Is this really awesome? Whirl the hair is pushing in different ways, and you can see here. It really wants to lay flat, and here she's got a little kick so what i want to do is give her a style. It'S going to balance out this side with this side and that's going to require me paying attention to where the hair wants to travel. Naturally, so the first thing i do before i even get started with the cut is i go into the world and i start combing the hair out from where the road pattern starts, so this hair all wants to go this way. This hair wants to go pretty much. Let'S get this over. This stuff wants to go down this way, so i'm gon na i'm making my plan based off of what her hair wants to do, and this is also how i'm gon na do my sectioning. My sectioning is going to be based on where all this wants to go: she's open to a bang that just hits about eyebrow level and then a lot of short pieces around the face. So understanding that i have to then determine. What'S her bang section and what's going to be the stuff that sits around her face and what's going to be the layering, so i'm looking again at her growth patterns and if you can see, there's a split happening right there. What that's telling me is that this hair wants to be the face. Framing you can even see once it comes down how it hugs the face. This stuff wants to be the layers, so i'm going to start sectioning out the stuff uh, i'm not going to do it necessarily uh. I'M trying to explain my thought process, i'm going i'm paying attention to where things want to go, um so kind of organic, rather than worrying about complete symmetry more like just lit, so each side might be a little different because the hair grows and lays a little Differently at how much more hair she has on this side than she does on this side. Um, i want to balance it out. The first thing i've got to do is create the perimeter, so i'm going to do that and then i'm going to move into the interior, i'm just going to work around the head, i'm going to start on the front, because this is where the biggest change is Going to take place, the length is a big change too, but i would say the stuff around the face and what's going on here is going to be an even bigger change than the length from the bottom. So we'll do that first and then i'll take the bottom up, probably last i'm going to use some tonic to dampen her hair. I don't want to get it super soaking wet, because i want to pay attention to her growth patterns and if i wet her hair down too much, i'm not going to be able to see where it wants to go and how it's moving and living so tonic Is kind of a legendary cutting lotion? I actually i was just requesting that i get some because i haven't had any uh, but it you know, especially for working with the blade like, because it gave you the opportunity to really evaluate the hair naturally and then to wet it down with something. That'S like lighter than water, but also kind of lubricates a bit more than water, so the blade can really glide through yeah. It'S like a tea tree oil base. If i remember correctly, it smells wonderful, smells clean, smells super clean and i'm i'm working it in with my hands. I don't want all the the wetness of this product to be sitting on the surface. Then it's just gon na it's not really gon na. Do its thing, the beauty of this product is when it gets absorbed into the hair and it can be a cutting tool, but it can also be a styling product at the same time. So we have our first good question coming in here from amy amy's wondering if the hair is really long, would you scissor cut first then do the razor, or do you prefer to raise her from the start great question? You know it really depends on what my desired outcome is and if somebody is doing like, let's say they're donating here, what i might do is braid it and cut it off with scissors. But if we're doing a cut that doesn't enable us to do that, um, then i'll, just i'll just jump right into the razor talk a little bit about razor cutting. I still you know, i know a lot in our community, even though it's gotten way more popular and there's so much more great education than there ever was um. Still. A lot of people are maybe skeptical or afraid um. As someone who is very experienced with the razor, why why do you enjoy working with it? What benefits do you find from it, and you know what what uh? What can you tell us about it yeah? I love it because, as you'll see in this haircut, i can really trust my eye and i can really go with my feeling in the moment um. Instead of having to work in smaller sections, the razor takes off a lot more hair, a lot faster than the scissor does, which is one of the scary things yeah. If you're not prepared - and you don't have good understanding of what you're doing, then you end up in trouble and i think that's maybe why so many people are afraid to use it yeah i can, and i can understand i was so terrified to use the razor When i first started learning um and it took me a while - i'm not going to say it was an immediate thing - it has a big learning curve, but that's part of the fun of it um is, i feel like what it's done for me as a hair. Stylist is it's: it's opened me up to understanding that i i actually can trust my instincts way more than i was when i was just cutting with the shear. It just frees me up and i feel like because of the fact that you're able to create so much texture and movement in the hair with the razor i get, i get a lot more. Playful results um. So, as i'm going like, what i'm doing is i'm just looking again at the hair where her density changes it's thicker here than it is here, and the hair just kind of wants to split off right there. So i'm just kind of working with what it's telling me it wants to do, and then this is going to be bang and face framing. Let'S get a close look at how you hold the razor, because i think a lot of people aren't even sure of how to do that. I know they are because i've been spending years teaching people yes, so you want to start with the razor closed and then you open it up by holding the back of the razor and the handle you open it up all the way you anchor it with your Thumb middle finger and index finger and then once you've got that secure, you kind of move it up toward the the top. I guess like the base of your fingers and then it's like you're holding it like a pencil and what i'm thinking about when i'm cutting with the razor is i'm cutting with the edge. So the the sharpest part here i don't want to be cutting with the side of the blade if i'm cutting the side of the blade, i'm shaving the hair off, and that is when you get into trouble so shaving the hair off is when you can damage The cuticle and cause all kinds of other problems by tilting the blade and cutting through the hair. This way you're getting a taper on the ends of the hair, which creates movement but you're, also getting a clean cut as well. So it's a tapered clean cut, which is just such a it's such a modern thing, and sometimes we have to work extra hard with the scissor to get that effect where the razor just does it so naturally, so i'm working with her head shape and i'm working At holding the hair come around the head, and now i've got the the texture. The combing is really important. So i've got this perfect amount of tension. It should be really tight and i should be able to see all the hair traveling in unison and no crisp crossing over anything and i'm going to just stretch down. I give it a little bit of a push, and that's going to tell me where that bend is is telling me. I can't have my stroke go higher than that. Otherwise i'll get a lot of kick. So i'm just going to start my momentum and then just go right through this section, so you can see it's kind of zigzaggy and that zigzag is like weight, removal and length removal happening at the same time and it's creating this really soft texture that just sits Right at the side of the right off the face looks great already. Thank you yeah. I love that you mentioned combing and tension because i think right away. People think oh razor cutting it's free form. It'S messy just pick up hair, but it's actually exactly the opposite. Right, the blade cuts so softly that everything else has to be really in control. Yes, absolutely just getting it a little bit more damp here. You don't want to cut on dry hair so much because you want the blade to be able to glide over the hair, and sometimes if hair is dry, it's going to snag too much. Her hairline is very fine and delicate. So i'm going to be more gentle with my stroke here. So is it a little bit of a shorter stroke, shorter stroke, which is creating more strength and then here where the hair is more dense and strong kind of opening it up a bit yeah and i'm going to come from behind a little bit to push it. So that that allows the hair to just kind of like give that nice little curl to hug the the jaw and then i'm just going to. I want to remove a little bit of weight in there. So i'm taking this triangle that sits right above the ear. I'M going to come straight out and i'm just going to go a little shorter with it and what that does is it opens up all this length around the ear and she can have these cute little um pieces around the ear where she could have it kind Of sit over the ear and it's not going to get too heavy, it's very deliberate. That'S what i love about great razor cutting it's just like. I want this to do this, so i'm going to cut this way. I'M going to cut this way and it's going to do it, there's not like 15 moves that you make to make it happen. It'S just like one to the left, one to the right. Just do it with perfection. Thank you, yeah, and that's also the thing about about razor cuts that i love is like. They look really effortless and not over thought. You know it just looks super like like almost like. I want it to look almost like. She just did this on her own home. I don't want to look too hairstyley. You know what i mean. I want it to have a punk edge and punk has that diy aesthetic. So i'm using a bit of the previous section that i cut on the other side. So there's my guide, but i'm going to drop my guide and then this is how i'm going to follow, but also she's got less density here than she does here. So my stroke is going to be bigger so that i can balance out the weight and on this side, are you working more from the heel, correct, i'm working from the heel. So when i'm cutting from um from center to right, i'm using the tip when i'm cutting from center to left, i'm using the heel and the heel usually takes a lot of practice because people, it just doesn't feel as natural. No yeah. That'S where great training comes in, i know many of you have attended the bumble and bumble university, um and or had bumble. Educators come into your salons to kind of share this with you and, as i said in the opening, i think such a great impression on our industry that we're really seeing right now more than ever um. You know, i think, with the visual aspect of instagram and people kind of carving out a look uh, this bohemian kind of french kind of textured look, whether it be a bob or a pixie or a shag or a mullet, and i think a lot of that. Really, if you look back into these beautiful archives, that bumble has you you'll get so so much great inspiration for what people are doing right now, so it's kind of creating that little bit of space like a little triangle above the ear there. It'S one of my favorite little tricks yeah. I separated out this section because on this side, her hair is way more dense than it is on this side and a part of it is there's this piece that wants to sit over. So i need to make sure that this is balanced with this, and i need to get rid of some of this weight in here. So i'm just going to come in and just chip it out. It'S kind of one of those interesting things that to get visual symmetry, sometimes you have to cut the two sides differently, rather than cutting them exactly the same to be symmetrical visually. Honestly, that's another reason why i fell in love. It forced me to be way more present. Actually, would you mind just taking this off your ear really quickly? Thank you. I want to make sure that it is um with the razor. I thank you. That'S great um. The razor forces me to stay super present with what i'm doing and what's going on with their hair all over the head um. So it gets you out of autopilot mode, which i definitely felt like. I was stuck in for a little while there at the beginning of my career. I just felt like huh, i'm just doing the same thing every day. This really got me out of that headspace. So if there are some young hairdressers watching or anyone in school, first of all give yourself a shout out. Let us know that you're watching, but do you think that they should um? You know in those first couple months first year really be focusing on razor cutting, or should they kind of learn the fundamentals with the scissor? You know, i think it's good to do both because, especially when you're, just starting out you're way more open and way more like eager to just take all the information in, and i think that you can. Actually, you really can learn the scissor and the razor at the same time, and still, you know, benefit from that, a certain tool that um prefer, and you also will learn how well they complement one another as well. Now we did have a question earlier again again from amy about hair textures. Will you razor every type of hair texture, there's some that you'd stay away from is the razor okay for very fine hair yeah? It'S, i would say it's great for pretty much any hair texture. I wouldn't use it on say like on like four b or c hair, because that hair is already like it needs strength, and so a scissor is going to be better for it, but um for most other hair types. It'S good another hair type that i would avoid using the razor on is um hair. That'S been compromised by chemical procedures, um! Anything! That'S like that looks like it's damaged or needs more strength. You know when we went through the kind of uh brazilian japanese straightening um trend. That was the texture that i always hated to razer because of like you couldn't get your tension right because it would stretch and it would pop in weird ways: yeah. It'S um people that want to have like a straightening process are typically not going to be razor candidates, because the razor does create more texture, um and if there are people who have invested money and trying to make their hair more like strange, yeah, um they're, not Going to want that texture, that's kind of going to fight it yeah exactly so now, i'm just going with again i'm paying attention to the way her hair grows. Let me have you tilt all the way over, so now what i'm going to do is create. This is the length, so she was like mid-neck. So here we are at mid-neck and i have her tilted because i want to cut the hair closer to where it's going to live and again i'm doing a nice big stroke and i'm cutting from front to back. So it swings forward instead of back and then i'm going to bring this next section down yeah. I i knew this question was going to come up about. Where did you find your wooden? Handle david is wondering david. Unfortunately, those haven't been made in a very long time um. So it's probably been at least 10 years since they've been made by feather. Currently there's just the black option, from feather plie but uh. You know: we've had different at hair brain pro. We'Ve had some different wooden ones over the years and hopefully we'll get some again soon, but this is this: was the bumble and bumble uh edition that was made up 10 to 15 years ago. You can even see that yeah and unfortunately the uh it was made by feather plie was a collaboration, but they don't make it anymore and i've even talked to the company to try to make them and they won't make them. So you know, maybe you can find some. I bet there are some people out there who bought it and aren't you have or haven't used it in a long time, people sell our stuff on ebay on ebay, yeah like stuff that we made a long time ago, and people are really wanting it. So people will sell them on ebay so now, moving to the second side and again as this is establishing the length it is but notice how much shorter my stroke is on this side, and it's began again because of the fact that her hair here is less Dense than it is on the other side - and i just want to make sure that i'm i'm being respectful of what every part of the head needs, i don't you don't have to do the same thing all over. You do whatever is necessary in the moment in the area where you're working, so i want to just make sure that you're getting a nice balanced length. I don't have a mirror, so i need to step in front of her for a second and just see. What'S going on looking cute all right, so i'm gon na actually i'm gon na start playing with well what i'm gon na do now is i'm gon na move around to the back, and you can see already right here this hair, the way it's splitting this hair Wants to drop and this hair wants to come straight back when i'm holding it in this almost like i'm going to create a ponytail. So this is telling me this is where i can take my first section. So i'm going to put the comb right in there. Keeping it flat on its side to follow head shape, and it's going to give me a nice clean section as i work around perfectly horizontally, and this is all going to get put up - i'm just going to clip it. We don't usually use clips at fumble because it's it takes us out of being present with the hair, but time is of the essence right now, so i'm just gon na put it up. If you weren't gon na use the clip, would you just use some product and try to really kind of groom it into the direction you wanted it to go? Correct yeah, so she's got a lot of density um in the occipital nape area. You can even see a lot of hair gathers in the center, so i'm going to create a triangle right here, and this is going to be i'm going to take this. This is going to be weight taking out that becomes like the i'm doing, a terrible job of describing this no you're doing great job uh. It'S gon na i'm gon na be removing weight and length at the same time. So it's kind of like a triangle section or i think uh. Sometimes it's called like an arrowhead right, just kind of like pointed at the top wider at the bottom correct. And if you look in profile it's less dense at the top. It'S really meatier there in the middle and then it's really sparse at the bottom. So this is going to be where i remove a lot of the weight and then this stuff and this stuff is going to be the the length. So i'm going to hold it straight out from the head. You can see that band of weight right there so now just kind of going with the tip of the blade. Now that weight is gone and i'm going to take that out and now i can create my base length, we have to tilt your head all the way down there. We go so that that section in the middle does that kind of create some direction or some some space and openness, space and openness, and also yeah. It'S gon na allow see if you can see now the hair has a lot more movement and lift it wants to just like move, and all this stuff here is going to fall over it. So people will never know that. I took all that weight out and then this is kind of like all the bulk, that's in the crown. Yes, so i'm gon na re-dampen it just a little bit and start adding more product to help me see the cut a little better, see the style. So again, using tonic as your kind of cutting lotions keep the hair damp and controllable, correct and then i'm going to use. This is an old-school addition of thickening spray um. We don't make this anymore, but the product is called thickening spray. So you don't make that package, but you still make thickening spray. Oh my gosh. We will never get rid of thickening spray. It is like. I asked i requested some of that as well. I need some tonic, some thickening spray. There are times i will go on. Uh, you know, go to shows at fashion week and see other teams backstage and teams. You know they may be with another product brand. They all have thickening spray yeah, it's a staple in styling here, yeah such a staple and what the thickening spray is doing. For me, while i'm cutting, is it's helping me it's going to help me to hold the sections and help me to see a little bit better texture and i want to add a little bit of grooming cream, another classic another classic, and i'm going to start with That much grooming cream, you want to activate it on your hands first, so it becomes nice and pasty, and then you can just start working it through what grooming shirt cream does is it gives it kind of like a more lived-in moisturized finish? So it's not like a super polished finish. It'S more like, i think, like 90s cool girl grunge. So what in your role as an education manager, education, director, what what types of things are you doing, and especially you know, we're still kind of coming out of our pandemic? Education isn't, as as it always has been at the house of bumble, meaning you don't have classes coming in and out every weekend. So what have you guys been doing? You know we've been good, we're like we're doing a lot of stuff uh in terms of the development of our online education. So that's all coming at the start of 2022, so lots of core online courses and we're going to have a whole online education platform for all levels and uh people that are new to bumble. People have been with bumble forever and we're going to have the new evolution of our on of our dbu family, humble university. Okay, so now you can see i've combed everything out to match. You know where her hair wants to travel based on how it's growing out of the head and what i'm going to do now is i'm going to start blending the perimeter that i've cut with the stuff? That'S on the interior and again because it's where we have the biggest change, i'm going to start in the front now the nature of more shag. Styles is you're creating more of a square shape, so my layers are going to be really square and i want the sides to be square, so it's nice and slim, but then has a lot of lift and movement at the top. So i'm going to use the sections that i cut around the perimeter as my guide for moving length on the interior. Now this is something that even people who work a lot with the razor often have challenges with elevating the hair and razoring. I mean lots of times they're cutting at low elevations and they feel comfortable. So if we can really kind of break down how how you go about this and control it sure well, part of the control is from the products that i put in. The products are really tools just as much as anything else like the razor this comb, the scissor and, as you can see, the this product is helping me hold my the hair, where i want it, but still allow it to. You know, be combable and i'm. This is all the stuff that i've already cut and i'm going to drop the guide out, and then this is weight, so i'm going to cut that weight out. So, as you were looking through, that just seemed like a dense spot, i saw like yeah like a band of wheat, and i mean you'll, see you'll, see that again, there's plenty in there, so i'm going to come around now to this side. There'S this section that wants to stay together here, so i'm just going to go whoop and follow that and then elevate it and now this is so you're taking a guide from what you had just cut underneath correct and cutting square off of that correct. I'M going to come around to the other side. Now how you doing georgia, i'm good you feeling good yeah. I'Ve never had a razor haircut before so it feels different than like scissors way different yeah, it's kind of like getting a little head, massage right, yeah! It'S like plucking strings, keep your head up for me. Thank you. So this section comes all the way from this side and travels all the way over and that's just the way her hair wants to grow. It'S not up to me to decide it's i'm responding to what the hair wants to do. So this is the stuff that's gon na. That was the length on the side, so each this is a different guideline that you had in the fringe, because you're using the hair, that's falling like over the ear, correct yeah see how much more weight there is on this side. Yeah much thicker. This section looks so i'm going to remove weight and length at the same time where my fingers are is the length no weight needs to be taken out there over here, and then you kind of curve a little bit at the end to get to cut the Length, it's almost like a j motion, correct yeah, that's when it's all really kind of ticking you're, getting the weight and the length at the same time yeah it saves you so much time and again it's like it helps keep the haircut looking organic and not too Over thought, okay, now we're going to move around to the back and same idea here: you'll use the underneath, or will you use the hair from the front i'm going to use the hair from underneath? Let me come around here, so i get a good angle. Get the comb out of the way and that blade is kind of really with the grain of the hair, correct yeah, so it's not dragging at all. No that's a problem. I see very often when people try this. The blade is it's kind of angled too much, and it's dragging where you're really with that grain. The other thing, too, is the tension of the hair and the motion of the blade. There has to be a really great rhythm. Here i mean because if, if you don't have that it's hard to be consistent, yes, there are probably some people i'm noticing. There are some pieces that i missed, but that's part of the fun you can come back and get those later now i notice you're always kind of cutting from uh the inside of your palm out, rather than trying to come backwards. Sometimes i've seen people try to come backwards and it makes me a little nervous yeah. No, no! No, so i always work from the center out yeah. You also just have more momentum that way, the way that your hand moves or when you try to kind of come backward, the other way. It feels and looks awkward yeah i mean yeah. It doesn't really work the same way. So if you're just joining us we're here in new york city, we've got a little fun little studio that we rented just for our time with chris john, you can see. We have this beautiful piano here as it added kind of fun, uh fun edition. We'Ve got our beautiful model georgia's having a big change. This is chris john von bremen, who is the education manager with with bumble and bumble what a great great role with an ed industry. Powerhouse for education and uh he's been sharing some great razor cutting tips. If you're just joining us now, all this will be saved and you'll be able to watch it at any time here on our facebook page. So you can go back through and along with well over 600 other videos that we've done over the years here, with great with great artists and educators, but today a pleasure to be working with uh with chris john from bumble and bumble. I am so happy to be here today so glad that we could be doing this together. Gerard, absolutely, okay, so i i removed a lot from the interior, but apparently i still need more, so i'm just gon na i have to go, there's a step that i must have missed, or i thought that i didn't need to do this step, but it's okay. So i'm just gon na remove more length and weight so now the overhanging hair you're using the previous length as a reference. I am so this is kind of falling over what you did in the nape and then you're, taking off the excess length and just kind of thinking, basically kind of square, with the line yeah, keeping it square remembering that this this style is about having some squareness. So i want to keep everything square. I don't want to round anything out too much and how long have you been working with bumble tell us a little bit about your history. With the brand, i've been with bumble for 11 years, i've been doing hair for 20 years, but i started taking classes at bumble as a student in 2004 at the house of bumble university in the meatpacking district of manhattan um, and for those of you that have Never been there, it's really something you know uh, hopefully opening up back up in the new year after we've gotten through uh everything that's happening and if you've never had a chance to visit at the very least, if you're in new york, just put it on your Tour, you can check out the salon. You can check out the university space again. I don't know that that's possible right now, but hopefully in the new year things will be opened back up. I was way too conservative with this weight and length removal. So that's why i had that situation so now we're getting what i wanted now we're going to get more of a fun shag, so just basically going through now and taking some of those layers a bit shorter yeah. I don't know i was i was being. I was being unusually squeamish, can't put it back, you can always take more. That'S a good point. That'S a good point. I think it's good for people to see that that even someone you know with a mastery that you have you know you might do something once and then reevaluate it and do some more. I think that's the beauty of our craft. It is it's part of the fun it's like. It'S always got to be a learning process and if you're not learning with every haircut, then then maybe it's time that you look at things from a different angle. So i'm just looking at where her hair is accumulating. Weight and then we're going in and removing it this guy, okay, so i'm going to start drying it just so. I can see the texture i'm just using a little bit of heat and gentle airflow. I want to start creating texture in her hair, so i'm moving it around the root. I want to see how much volume i can get from these layers. This is really an art to hand drawing, i think you know. Sometimes people automatically just go right for a round brush all the time, where very often, a great modern haircut like this, just the dryer in your hands. You can get so many um wonderful effects. Oh yeah look at the volume that i'm getting from just from gently bending it with my hands and because of the product i'm getting this nice curve. That'S holding tons of lift so really just working the route at this point to try to get it to to lift up yeah a lot of movement, i'm thinking like debbie, harry and blondie. Like you know, in the in the beginning, i was talking a lot about how i think bumble helped to open people's minds to the importance of the eye, and you just you've mentioned a lot of references. So you know how important is it to study? These looks like to think oh, what did what was blondie like what did debbie harry's hair? Look like 35, 40 years ago to me, it's one of the most important things about being a good hairdresser is knowing your references and knowing like where ideas came from and how they evolved and why they involved and like what part of our you know. Where did this come from, and where did that come from that? First, you know and who you know if they did it first where'd they get. That idea from everything is everything is cyclical and the more that you are able to know the history of hair, the more you're able to see where it's going and it helps keep you ahead of the curve, but also on top of that it helps you stay Inspired yeah, one of the amazing things at the house of bumble is the library that you have with all the books that are related to hairdressing and beauty. Yeah i've got a huge library of resources, i'm just uh. I might have overdone it at the root there. So i'm just gon na wet it down just a little bit at the bang area. It'S looking great. I love this movement through the sides in the back and now just kind of reshaping the front yeah, let's get a little 360.. We can see all the beauty in those layers, the movement that the razor created and now reshaping it's got kind of a mod look to it as well. It does yeah now with that front volume taken down, and that's the other thing too is when we're working, especially at bungalow work. We want to play with versatility. We want to make sure this everyone's able to really enjoy working with their hair in different ways. What uh you know, i get asked all the time about training programs like in salon. If someone wanted to come and work as an apprentice at bumble. How does that work these days? Well, we're actually hiring right now. If people want to come to bumble, we are taking applications for people to join our assistant program and in order to work at bumble, you have to go through the assistant program, it's about a year and a half two years, and you learn all the fundamentals and Um but then we also do offer in salon education through our bonus team and then, of course, we will also be like i mentioned, we'll be opening our so lots of ways to get education through bumble i mean you could be someone who decides to work with The company, by working in the salon as an apprentice, training with the goal of becoming a busy stylist or colorist in either one of the two salons here in new york. You can also, if you're a salon owner who works with bumble. Has these incredible products in your salon? Then that's the bumble live program. That'S where your educators visit the actual salons and has that been up and running, or is that uh on a pause with the pandemic? But we are going to be relaunching that in 2022., so i'm just now. I want to replicate the aesthetic of the razor by doing some deep point cutting with the shears. What what grabbed your eye there, that you felt needed to change a little thick to me, um and uh. It wasn't laying quite right - and so i'm seeing there's still there's still just more on the interior there that i think needs to come out and now it's like sitting a little bit more, i'm literally adding more layering there yeah just to give it more movement. But it's dry now, so you can't, i can't cut it with the razor. Otherwise it might not it's not going to feel good. That'S for sure it kind of tends. You know especially an unguarded blade. It'S so sharp. It pulls the hair when it's dry. That'S why you know cutting with a little bit of tonic, makes it glide so much more right. You can create razor effects with the shear. Just based on how you point cut and the deeper that you point cut the more movement you get see how it's sitting more slim now, oh yeah, this is a fun little bonus. You guys are getting to see a little bit of scissor cutting in this as well yeah. We love that and she carries a lot of weight in the crown. So that's why i section this out before i drop it. I just want to make sure that everything is balanced all over sorry. You can see that fun little piece that you cut in front of the ear there and then the layering that's kind of around it working off that baseline and then again one one more look at the crown. So look at how dense that is. So i want to get rid of some of this weight, so i'm getting tension and again because i have the product in there. It'S helping me to hold that section with tension, so you can go nice and deep into it sounds of new york city. In the background here on sixth avenue, that's a very normal occurrence for us here anytime. I try and do a live video from home. I always like, ah dang it there's so many sirens. In the background. I think people enjoy it. You know yeah we're in new york city right down, sixth avenue you're gon na hear some sirens so coming in and layering a little bit more dry and working with the blow dryer again yeah, not overdoing it just to get a little bit of lift and texture And i'm going to use one of my favorite products. What do we have here, this one's new to me, liquid, wax and finishing spray? Oh, that is that fairly new or it's part of the extension of the sumo line we used to have a product called city. Swept and it was a kind of like a cult favorite and then it got discontinued and people lost their minds, so we brought it back, it's been reincarnated and it's now part of the sumo family and what it does. It just gives me a little bit more ability to create separation and give a little bit more of a grungy downtown, aesthetic, i'm getting a little like susie sue vibes. Now too yeah yeah, i haven't seen any recent pictures of her. I think she's kind of gone into uh. You know, i don't want to say hiding. I don't know, what's it what's that's another word for that: she's retired, gracefully, yes, she's she's made her millions, yeah she's good it. Maybe it has a little to do with the eyes the eye makeup and it's got that cool. I love the way the fringe is bending like that. You know people sometimes work so hard with styling. For that to happen where it seems like it just does it automatically with a great razor cut the reason yeah, the razor really enables the hair to bend it. However, you want it to bend, especially if you've got like straighter textures that you want to see more movement happen. That'S when you'd want to pull out the razor. It'S that tapering that allows the ends to be flexible, correct, a beautiful detail right in front of the ear it just makes it uh very purposeful when it's tucked a little. Does it all as well yeah just for a little extra lift and finish looking great georgia, you look fantastic. What a great makeover i can't wait to see it. Yeah yeah bangs, definitely make a huge difference for you opens your face. You can see that beautiful eyes. Nice to see ears too cute, i think we're done. Does anybody have any other questions?

Beatrice Farris: May be hard for her to work with her hair .

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