Short Feathered Layers Haircut Tutorial - Thesalonguy

What'S going on YouTube Stephen, a salon guy here and today, I'm doing a step by step tutorial of short feathered layers. So let's get this mannequin prepped and let's get started alright, so we're just about ready to start, and this hair is a little bit naughty. So I sprayed my 25 spray in so for all of you, wonderful consumers out there 25 spray is an amazing spray for getting rid of tangles and knots. It'S great, for you, know, kids, who have hair down to their waist and it gets super naughty and it's a great cutting lotion. Also, if you're professional you spray it on, and the hair stays really conditioned, and nice and moist throughout the entire haircut, and that's why I love working with 25 spray kind of right from the start. So you can, you know, follow along through this whole tutorial. This is gon na, be a very step-by-step kind of in-depth tutorial, and what I really want to do is just break this down, and this haircut is, I wouldn't say it's, you know super or complicated, but it's also not very easy, and if you understand just some Simple concepts, then, I think we'll be in good shape. Now, if you're a you know again a cosmetology student or a stylist watching this, hopefully you'll understand the concepts. But if you're a consumer watching us or a client through the strong chance - or you may want this haircut and you know don't be afraid to - I guess - maybe bring this in show some photos. Maybe take some notes as well, and I know for a fact. I have a few clients myself. That would probably want this haircut as well, so let's get started so. The first thing I like to do is establish the base. Okay, the base really is the core length, and that's really how long you know we're gon na keep the haircut, but the base also travels around to through here. I consider this the base alright they're very, very important without a solid foundation. Just like a house, you cannot really have a good haircut, so how important is is the structure I want to be able to make sure I learned this a long time ago that the client could leave just if you cut the base of the haircut. That'S it. You know so if something happened and they had to walk out the set the foundation of the hair coat would be so strong that it would still look like a foot haircut, okay. So what I like to do is I like to really get that out of the way first, so I'm going to probably cut this to about right here and we're kind of entering into you know kind of layered Bob territory to be honest with you or you Know lob so to speak, a longer Bob, but really this could be done on any length hair, but keep in mind too sure you go with the layers which we are going relatively short. It has to be well-balanced. Alright, you know you don't want this to end up looking like a mullet or anything, because if the layers are really really really short and the hair is really long on the bottom, you know. Could it work? Yes, certain aspects of this haircut: it could work, but at the same time you know it may be very, very and why it may not blend alright. So you want to make sure you're keeping everything kind of well balanced, that you know if you cut the layers to a certain point, you're gon na be okay. Alright, so we've done the back as you can see, and I just really held it flat flat down and no elevation and now we're going to work into the sides and then going into the most important part, which is the front rain through here. So, depending on the client, depending on this, their current situation of their hair really depends on this area in through here. So remember, we're gon na be creating short feathered layers, which to me means we're gon na be probably going and right in this area right here. So what we have to do is you have to visualize now, if you cut an angle like this all the way into here, alright, you may cut off a lot of hair and it may end up looking like a whole big hole right through here. Alright and there won't be any hair for the client, so what you need to do is need to really visualize this, and I always like to stand on the side, and I will start either from the bottom working my way up, because I can position my fingers Or you can start right here in the front and work your way down? Okay, it like this right. So since we have a good camera angle right here, let's start right here now. The only risk with doing this is that we have a tendency to maybe cut to flat like this, which means we're kind of screwed. That'S why a lot of the times I will end up going this way. So, let's, let's do this to be safe all right. Let'S do this to be safe, even I have to be safe, sometimes alright! So right here, I'm angling, my fingers right there, and this is really the the real key part of this haircut. Your fingers right here see this my fingers. This will kind of really dictate the angle of attack all right. The angle of of the haircut and all you're doing simply is just moving your finger position. That'S it that will allow you to create a very steep angle. So, as you can see, we're working upwards now and we're taking the fear out of oh my gosh, I just cut this huge angle way too short, and I have no room alright and look at that. So now we can position our fingers upwards. This way, and just like that, we can connect it now watch this. Alright, I want you to look at this and see what I've done right in through here, see that we've created a nice feathered layer and it's written a relatively short side. So what we're gon na do now is go back in because now we say okay now I see what we're working with and if we want to take it down a little bit shorter. We can so I'm gon na bring all this hair forward this way, because once you bring the hair forward, it can then travel back alright and that's the key with with with feathering and that's the key with creating layers like this is, if you bring it forward, It'S got to go back that far all right and that's looking much better. I want to just kind of sharpen that line up just a little bit and I'm happy with how that looks as you can see, and then we haven't even layer it yet so again, that's where the foundation comes in really really handy. If you have a good foundation, she could the client could actually leave and still being good-looking in good shape. Alright, so now we're connecting the back right through here gon na comb, it straight down and - and people probably say like - can a guy wear this haircut yeah? I mean a guy can wear this hair. So don't think that this is just for women. Alright, anyone could wear this haircut. It just depends on the kind of look you want. So yes, if you're a dude - and you want to wear this feathered haircut, then go for it all right. So now, if you notice we're cutting palm the palm, which is basically palm the palm this way, and now I'm cutting upwards again my finger position now, I'm gon na turn it more. This way my fingers pointed down more so the more your fingers have pointed down. The better angle, an area of approach or angle approach: you have okay, now we're gon na work, this in I'm standing directly in front of where I'm cutting and what we're gon na do now is we're going to marry the front together now. Let me just show you this right here, so you can see all right, I'm working my way up the head and now we're coming to this part right through here, and what we could do is take a peek now that we're not going to cut that side, But this is just look at that, so I stole a piece from this side and now, let's comb this all down and let's see if we're even-steven or uneven Steven today, all right it's hard to tell let me see you have to stand in front of here. So don't be afraid to stand in front of your client and we're slightly not a lot honestly, not a whole lot a little bit longer here, but really not that bad. If you can get this in one shot thing, I'm good for you, but I always joke around because and if you're professional hairstylist watching this, please. Let me know in the comments: if, like you, have a good side and a bad side like if you're, if you're completely even on the first shot, then god bless you, but let me know if it's very common for you to like not be even alright. Alright, there we go now we're perfect Lee balanced and through here great alright, so we have the solid base now. What does this mean? This means that - and I spent a lot of time doing this - this means that the client could literally walk out if she wanted to with a great haircut now, let's see how this is: let's see what this is looking like here, I just want to show you Guys the kind of flow this has alright, so you bring us back remember. I said it has to go forward to go back. So, let's bring this back like this and now what's gon na happen is if she were to blow-dry this she's gon na have very nice feathers, feathered layers going back and they're gon na start. Everyone wants to know all were they starting up here so here it goes right here, it's starting right in this area. Okay, so, yes, they are short. They are Stewart right about here and it's all gon na flow back, it's gon na be a little bit. I don't say heavy, but it's not gon na, have a beautiful flow to look, but can you get away with it? Yes, all right! So now it's time to start the actual layering process, and this is where you know this is the most crucial part of the haircut okay, because now we're really connecting everything. So we have this in the front right. Let'S just show you a nice little visual here we have this piece right here in the very very front, all right. This is the front layer. Then we have the top of the head, which is this alright, as you can see, it's a big difference and then we've got this. Look at this all the way in the back. So really we have three different lengths going on right in through here. What we need to achieve is we need to create a flowing connected shape throughout the entire thing, and how do we go about doing that? Well, let's give it a shot. So my first section I'm going to take is gon na, be right in the top of the head right here, the top back of the head and I'm going to comb this straight up and I'm gon na take a few things into consideration. How short do you really want to go with this? So knowing that the front is this short right into here? That means that I don't want to cut this. That short, I always like to have a little bit of length, especially with a more modern shape. I like to have a little more length in the front, so let's go about right here: okay and we're gon na cut this straight across just like this, and let's extend it right over here. This piece is literally going to be this: the entire haircut all right. It'S going to all flow into this one piece: that's why this first section you take is crucial all right now, the next part, what we're gon na do is going to go right down the middle in the back and we're going to take a horizontal section and We'Re gon na comb this straight up, so you guys can see. This is what it looks like all right, horizontal section right here and we're gon na comb. This straight up like this and I'm gon na turn the mannequin head this way. So you guys can see and I'd like to use the fine teeth of the comb and we're combing it straight up and there's our guide underneath and we're cutting straight across all right and then we'll take probably one more section. We don't want to go too low. You don't want to go below the occipital bone doing this, because the hair will be end up being way too thin throughout the bottom, and we need to maintain some of that weight so straight up and the reason that we're doing this simply is because it gives A perfect look at that it gives a perfect layer, alright, so we're gon na move that now to the other side, we're gon na just brush that away or knots the other side we're gon na brush it out of the way. So here's our second section on this side, so we're literally gon na mirror we're gon na mirror what we just did on the other side, so we're gon na comb it straight up. There'S the guide, we're keeping our body position. Our elbows level like this and we're gon na take one more section right, underneath just on top of the X Box, up little bone, which is the bone right here and again straight up, and this is going to keep everything very, very well balanced. And now what I like to do is I like to just bring everything up right in the middle, just a double check to make sure that we are even all right. So now, let's raise the mannequin head there we go. So we have a nice layered shape from here to about right here, but now we got our loose hair. Look at how long this is alright. We can't leave that this long. So what I like to do now is we're going to comb the hair straight out from the head like this and now we're going to simply cut it straight out from the head and we're going to match up to keep the consistent shape now, a few things. If you want to really really keep the length in the bottom, then you would kind of extend out the length the length okay. But since I'm not looking for like a super long, you know bottom I'd. You know I want to make sure this hat does have a lot of layers back here, so it's not so heavy again. I don't want to look really like a mullet, so I am gon na take off a good amount of kind of the weight in through the middle here. So as we get to this corner right in through here, I've learned this a long time ago that you want to maintain the weight as you get in through here and the reason I say that and look you see, I'm combing it straight back, not to the Middle but straight back right behind the ear like this, because maintaining that weight will prevent a hole but it'll also allow you to go in and remove that weight when you absolutely need to at the right time all right when you're in through this area. If you remove the weight too soon, there's gon na be no weight left to work in, and that - and I learned that a long time ago - and it's been a lifesaver all right. That'S why you comb everything back within the parameters of the ear? Okay, very, very important, all right so now the other side we're gon na comb, it straight back and yes for all, you number number crunchers a number of geeks, it's 90 degrees, all right, which is basically to me. I don't get caught up with the degrees. It'S straight out from the from the darn head all right, it's straight out from the head! That'S all you got to remember straight out from how the hair grows. Okay, great now, we're gon na. Do this corner right here again, we're not going into the sides! We'Re literally just staying behind the ear right right at the division point which separates the front from the back all right. So now we have to go to the very very bottom: don't forget all this hair down in through here. Okay, we still look at that. Well, all that hair needs to be cut, because what are we doing we're connecting and we are removing the weight. So it's not so heavy. We have to have a continuous shape going all the way through the bottom right. If you need to you can tilt the head down a little bit, so we're going all the way to the bottom, all right! We'Re combing us out of the way. So you have a clear, clear vision and comb it straight out and look at all that weight. So, what's that at the very bottom, that's the length and what is on top of it? Well that's weight! So what we're doing is we're connecting that's how you're going to get a beautiful flowing layer after each section. What I do is I comb. The other section out of the way, look at all that hair. If I weren't and and trust me, I said I have clients that come in all the time, and especially if they're new and I see all that weight at the bottom right and you need to cut it, you need to cut it, or else it's gon na. Be just super heavy now, depending on the hair type, depending on the texture. You know it all really depends, but look how far I'm going you're literally right down to the hairline, but I'm respecting the length, I'm not cutting that I'm cutting everything right. On top of that length, which again is going to create a beautiful layer, so I know I'm talking a lot everyone and I hope that this is I'm not. You know, rambling on and on, but you know, and also I'm doing this live I'm not doing voiceovers. I'M not filming this, and going back in, I think to me a true educator is somebody who can do this live all right, who can literally walk through this and who could teach it while doing it and that's the way I was taught many years ago, when I was an educator. I'Ve always done it that way, I am I've, never been a voice-over guy like I've done him randomly, but I think live is the way to go all right. As you can see, I'm talking to you right now, no lip syncing, nothing! All right, so, let's, let's do this nice little trick right through here - is we're going to kind of cross check this and we're gon na now. Reverse it and we're gon na comb, the hair out we're going to cut palm the palm this way, because what this will do, it'll give us a different perspective, and that's what's really important about this is perspective to see how the hair is flowing from all different Angles, a good haircut. You got to be able to comb it and move it from all different angles, and this this really folks, is what's going to guarantee that the haircut grows out really well, alright, and I'm surprised you know, I shocked myself, sometimes to be honest with you, because this Is looking pretty darn good, so we're gon na comb this all straight out and again, I'm moving with the head shape and I'm moving my body this way and what we're doing is we're going all the way down to the bottom. I'M not cutting the length but we're, as you can see, we're going all the way down through here and what that's doing again. It'S really guaranteeing our consistency and that and that everything is blended. Okay, so we're know there's a little bit of length under there. We need to match up alright, and if you see it, if you stuff something seems off, my motto is when in doubt cut it out problem. Is you might end up looking like me, so be careful all right, so we're now almost on when we've now entered into a different territory on the other side and again we're doing the same thing, combing all the way down to the very very bottom. This way, we're really we're really a maximizing the efforts, my goal and, if you're a hairstylist watching this or even a student, my goal is - and your goal should be for this haircut to look and last as long as it possibly can. I have haircuts that last five months, six months, sometimes even longer, I literally have clients I get their hair cut twice a year from me because I mean yet look granite. They'Ll come in with a longer, but I can do a haircut and since six months the haircut will grow out. Looking good, and you know what I don't care about. The money. I'D rather know that I that client of mine can walk anywhere and someone can say to them. Well, your hair looks fabulous and you know how would you last time we had a haircut, and I could say oh five six months ago and and someone can say it looks that good yes, it does all right now. Here is where, let's see we're going to connect all right, the whole back is done all right. The whole back is done, and what we need to do is connect this into this. So I'm not gon na take a piece straight up and cut. What we're going to do is cut vertically towards the face to really connect this part, because if I took this straight up and cut it what's going to happen, is we're going to end up creating a whole other guide and a new layer. We don't want to do that, let that all that hair fall out. This is where we're moving ahead. We'Re not going not going back folks we're not going back into the past or we're working and we're moving ahead. All right, so all I do is do that right in that area right in through here right in through here. Well guess what now the past is behind us and it's time to move ahead, so we can now cut horizontally. So let's take a section right across on the top and we're gon na work. Our way I like to call it a mohawk section: we're gon na go right down the middle, all right right down the middle and we're cutting straight across all right. Next section same thing: right down the middle and we're not cutting the corners, we're not cutting the sides, yet we're literally just focused on one area, all right straight up from the head and straight across and then lastly, right in the front, we're gon na bring us All up from the head and there's hardly gon na be anything to cut, and there we go now we're gon na come we're gon na come back and we're gon na work on that in a few minutes all right. What we're gon na do now is work into the corners, so we have the top the corners and asides all right. Let'S brush this across all right: there we go so now we're removing that weight into the corner, and this is where you really see the true feather the feathered layer. Look coming in all right right in through here, because this is the corners really are where the flow starts to happen right. That'S where the flow really really. You can see it and I've literally, if you have, if you've noticed I've stood in the same spot on this whole, damn haircut, to be honest with you, but what I'm doing is I'm actually just I'm really just working with the head shape. To be honest with you, you know, and I have good body position, good hand, position and everything is working out nicely, so there's the corners and now the sides. This is the true sides. This is the true sides right here, so see that here in the bottom. Let'S bring this over a little bit, see that hair on the bottom. That'S the length we're not touching that, but again the same concept with the back, we're cutting everything on top of it. So, let's bring it out and there we go we're getting rid of all this weight which is gon na. If there's, if there's too much weight, the hair is not going to feather it's not gon na lay or properly, okay really really crucial. But you want to be careful that you don't cut the length off, because if you do that, that's when you know whole star and that's when things aren't to start to really fall apart. Okay, good now same thing on this side. What I'm gon na do I'm going to stand right here and I'm going to cross-check this and we're going to make sure it's balanced and blended, just like we did in the back and by holding it out this way. What we're doing is we're really seeing the whole haircut from a different angle right, a different approach to me this is essential right. It'S really really essential to create a good haircut right and and and I'm telling you that's why you know I charge a bit more for my haircuts and I probably couldn't even charge more to be honest with you, but you know, III, put all this work into My even like men's haircuts and women's haircuts, I put all that work in okay. There we go so now, I'm starting to see the feather coming in and I got ta do this. For the other side, I forgot there's a holder side to do. I like to quit, while I'm ahead so usually a lot of times. I don't even do the other side. I just tell the clients, I'm done, they can leave okay, they go. I don't you have another side to. Do. I go. I'M sorry like I can't guarantee. It'S gon na look as good as the other side, and I just so I'm known as like the one side cutter nah kidding, kidding kidding if anybody likes my horrible humor, please let me know in the comments below I'd, appreciate it and and trust me if you're, A client of mine, you'll know this is my humor. You know this is I'm always cracking his bad jokes, all right. So now, look if you notice I'm standing in the same spot. I thought I was before the same spot and that's that's really, I'm not! I'M not I'm not really mentioning that, but that's like really really important is that you could stand in the same exact position and literally create the whole haircut. It'S all about body position. Okay, all about pie positions, all right! So again, we're just finishing up here on the corners making sure this is all blended in and now it's time to work on the side. So here again you got to get down a little bit, bring this straight out and look at all that here. All right! Look at that. Look at all that hair, so we're gon na cut that again make sure that you're thorough with your cutting all right make sure that you're, combing and you're not missing any parts of the haircut. Because, if you are, you know you, may it may be something important that you need to cut and you may miss the whole thing. Alright, so nice section right to the side again we're leaving the bottom piece, which is the length and all we're doing, is cutting the weight right on top of it, and I like to go back up a little bit again. I know it's not like I'm cutting the same thing twice, but what I'm doing is I'm just making sure it's all kind of blended together, because a few, sometimes you cut that that bottom layer, it changes the shape a little bit and something else kind of pops Out at you and you go, oh, you know what I need to cut that piece. I didn't I'd even cut that you know, or this needs to be a little shorter, alright, so we're just finishing up here again making sure it's all balanced. So here's what I'll do on this side is. I will go in and I'll comb the hair on an angle now going downwards, whereas before we were cutting, I'm sorry cutting up before we were cutting down and we're just gon na pull this out from the head. Like this, and we're just gon na check this all the way down in through the bottom right in through here again, what is this for perspective? It'S for a different perspective. It'S for checking for balance. It'S you know if the client wears her hair in a variety of different ways. You know all that stuff. You got to make sure that, no matter what you do and you see these little little hairs, I'm finding right in through here you have to cut those you've, got to make sure that everything is connected in every single possible way in every single possible way. Because, what's that going to do it's going to insure a great haircut and it's gon na ensure that it's gon na grow out really really good? Alright. So last but not least, what we need to do is, let's just bring us down a little bit. This is the part where I like to really look forward to this, because this this is gon na, tell you how the hair is flowing together, especially throughout the top. So this is really again another mohawk section right in through here and we're gon na comb. This up alright pay close attention, so the hair right, not everyone's hair, grows straight up like this, people's hair doesn't grow straight up. It grows out out from the head. So what I'm gon na do is we're gon na comb. This and there's a little bit right. There and let's work this back and we're just simply making sure that all of this is connected and all perfectly blended right to the back perfect. Let'S go into the next section right into here. We'Re gon na go just as far as the corners. We don't want to go too far because we're going to start removing stuff that we don't want to remove, but what this is doing. It'S really really checking for balance and removing any unwanted weight. All right, so we're done there. It is the same thing on this side here: combing it straight up and really what you're doing is bringing the two sides together right, you're, bringing the two sides together and what that really does is ensure balance all right. So I literally have just done an entire haircut non-stop for you guys all right, let's bring this mannequin head up, as you can see all right. This is a really the first time, I'm looking at this too. To be honest with you all right. So, let's see what we got here, let's bring us down into here, so I'm gon na blow dry this and we're gon na keep this right down the middle and I like to cut wet into dry, okay wet into dry, simply because I, as the hair, is Drying alike, I really like to see the shape that it creates. I really like to see how that how it looks all right and look you can already see now again. This is, I want to say, it's outdated, but it's a feathered. Layered haircut, I mean some people really like this all right, but this really comes down to technique and understanding hair all right. So let's blow-dry this. What I'm going to do? I'M gon na mostly use my hands to be honest with you. I'M gon na use a lot of raking motion like this. I'M going to kind of speed up through the blow-dry a lot of raking motion and again I want the haircut to do most of the work, alright guys. So I know this probably looks kind of crazy right now but, like I said, if the hair goes forward, it's got to go back. So what we're gon na do is we're going to brush us all back and again a lot of times. I did use my hands on this blow-dry, but, as you can see just moving forward, I want you to see what the shape looks like alright, moving off forward. Look at all these layers into here. Alright, this is all layer. This whole thing: now: here's where the feathered part comes back, I'm gon na use a brush like this, so it really enhances the feathers the way it's layered, all right, we're combing it straight back straight back and look at this. Look at that. Alright talk about talk about how gorgeous flow. It goes right back into place. Here'S the layers - and we have all this flowing in right down to the very, very bottom, look at that: no hairspray, no, nothing! Let'S do the other side where we all this way. Here all right again, let's call me back comb, it all back work it all in right into place all the way down to the very bottom and again we think we did it look at that. Look how gorgeous that is all right. Look how gorgeous that is now this may again, this may be a bit outdated to some people, but really it's the technique. It'S the tilt, the whole technique of the haircut all right now. Look: here's what we have going forward like this, so you guys can see now, let's, let's judge this a little bit. Let'S get some kind of movement in through here and it's kind of modernized it a little bit just by running our fingers to it and adding some volume and just movement and and look what we got. We got a nice shape in through here really nice shape. Look at that see just by moving my hands a little bit. Look at all that texture and a volume we have so there we have it folks, a short layered feathered. Layered haircut, alright YouTube! Well, they call me the one take king. Alright, I did that a whole haircut in one take the only the only thing I had to do is a step away to get my blow dryer. But again, I think this came out phenomenal. All right really really phenomenal and I'm sure I'm gon na get lots of people on YouTube. Who saying I'll fly from anywhere in the world for this haircut and trust me? I get those emails on a regular basis, but I hope you guys really enjoyed this and really have a good understanding, and I hope this helped some of you from either learning how to do it or understanding why your hair may not be doing it or understanding. Why your hairstylist isn't doing it, you know, and all sorts of problems and stuff like that. So if you enjoy this haircut, let me know in the comments below thank you guys so much for watching, don't forget to Like comment and subscribe and I'll see you next time for more videos with ass long guy