Step By Step Men'S Haircut On Asian Hair - Thesalonguy

Hey guys Steven a slog on here and welcome to the salon guy on demand. Today, I'm going to be doing a demonstration on a live model of a men's haircut and throughout the subscription you're gon na get seeing a variety of men's haircuts, and today I've got Johnny who's. My friend and also client and I'm gon na show you step by step how I'm going to cut his hair, so I'm ready to go. Let'S get started okay, so I've already consulted with Johnny before, and I want you to get a good look at his hair. Now so, as you can see his hair right now, it's probably about I'd, say four to five inches in length and we've been doing a haircut on him where we have a bit of a disconnected look right into here into this side and then tapered up through The nape into this area and Johnny has a serious, serious cat look like right in through here and it likes to grow up this way. So what we've been doing is we've been cutting it to where you know we have some length it, so it lays flat and it doesn't stick up and then we have it blended on the other side right in through this side right in through here. So what we're gon na do is we're going to fade this from I'd, say number two, then a three and a half guard right in through here and probably stop at about a three and three-quarter guard, which is the longest on my clipper blades and then we're Gon na cut the top a little bit shorter, actually than usual, we're gon na cut, probably about I'd, say two inches off the length all right and we're gon na give it kind of a little more of a textured look. You know for weekend. He can wear it back still, but you can also add some texture and Spike it up a little bit. So what we're gon na do is now. I'M cutting this dry all right, I'm cutting his hair dry and I always like to do dry haircuts when I'm using my clippers. Unless their hair is like completely filthy, it needs to get washed, but he washed his hair earlier, so we're in good shape. Here then I'll usually wash it afterwards to get the hair out, but we're gon na start with my Clippers from a number two and then I'll show you guys kind of step-by-step how I go about creating this whole new look for Johnny, alright, so I've got my Clippers ready I'm using the Oster Clippers, and I have my detachable blade right through here, which is a number number to guard, and these are attachable x'. So if you're new to the industry, I suggest getting good Clippers, you get detachable blades they're, not the cheapest, but I think they're the best to go with so we're gon na start with a number two guard. I always tell them to look down a little bit and what we're gon na do is we're going to cut the bottom nape of his hair to where we're gon na start the actual blend. Now I'm using a number two and a number two guard is you know it's not too, too short, it's not too long. It'S like the perfect kind of length mm-hmm. I think for look like this. What I'm doing is I'm creating my area of where I'm going to start blending for the next section, and this is crucial, because this is kind of like the whole base of your haircut. It'S where you start and then, where you leave off so now, I'm gon na come on this side here and I'm gon na use the comb and push the comb or push the hair into the Clipper. This way, because I feel that really helps out a lot, especially if the hair is a little bit longer. It'S like creating a weight line, but it's creating actually more of a guideline. That'S helping you understand where it is you're gon na start off and where the next phase of blending this haircut is so this whole back area is done and then, depending on how his hair grows. Sometimes you have to go across this way. Sometimes you have to go down if the hair grows up. You know, that's always tricky this area through here, so you just want to look at the way the hair grows and then, when you cut it go against the grain. This way like right into here, the hair grows up, so you cut down so now we're gon na work into the sides and again I'm taking the comb and I'm pushing the hair into the Clipper and what that's doing it's giving me a clear vision of war. I need to stop and we're going to pick up from a next guard. Now, I'm going to continue where I left off here and I'm going to use my clippers to match it up now. I always like to keep one hand on the head this way to keep the head still to keep it balanced and if I need to kind of rate, lift the scalp a little for any particular. I can do that, but now what I'm doing is I'm continuing this here, I'm connecting then around the ears. You always want to maybe pull down the ear and I'd like to really take it slow around this area. So now I'm going to bring him back around and I'm going to do the same thing on the other side. So now I'm repeating the same thing on the other side, making sure this is all working seamlessly together that everything is balanced. You don't want to have this really low here and then this really high here you just want to make sure everything is always balanced. So I'm going to continue where I left off and I'm going to now match up the side to the back. Just like, I did always brush the longer hair out of the way, so you don't cut any longer hairs. I like to just brush it out of the way you can spray it. You can clip it, but again, what we're doing is we're creating a solid line. Now, to make sure that we can match up the whole haircut so now, what I'm going to do when I'm done here is I'm going to switch my guard to a three and a half guard and then that's when we're going to work up to the next Area and we're gon na start to fade it from here in through here now. I'Ve got my three and a half guard, and what I'm going to do is now raise the level and the area of where I'm cutting, and this is really crucial also because now, as you can see, I'm combing the hair down into the Clipper, which is going To allow for a nice clean cut, don't forget in this area around the hairline. You really want to go in there, and sometimes you have to go against the way the hair grows to make sure you're cutting it. So now this was the area where he's got a strong cowlick. So what we're gon na do is we're going to keep it we're gon na really careful around this area, and now I'm going to extend the three and a half guard throughout the back and then I'm going to again continue on the other side. Alright. So now I'm just working this into the back to make sure we're all balanced here and then I'm going to extend this three and a half guard just like I did on the other side, all the way in through the side area towards the front hairline. Now I'm going to connect just like I did on the other side and, as you can see, we're following a pattern. That'S the really crucial think that it's whole haircut is making sure we're following a pattern. So the next guard. What I'm going to use will be my 3 and 3/4 guard, which is the longest blade that I have for this clipper and we're gon na go up to right into here, which is going to be the disconnected area. So this is we're working on a really focused area right in through here and we're disconnecting it. What I'm going to do is I'm going to take my comb I'm going to push out of the way the hair, I don't want to cut and I'm going to bring this up this way now, as I'm thinking about this I'm thinking, do I want to really Bring this all the way up, because I do have to leave this longer into here. So maybe what I could do is, if I cut this by hand, we'll leave a little bit of length in through here, so that it matches up, because if I cut it up to here, it means that I have to cut it here in the back, and We have this looking good in through into the back area, so this is something where it's up to your professional opinion, of making sure that you keep everything balanced. So what I'm gon na do is I'm gon na extend this up into here and yes, it'll still be disconnected, but I'm going to keep it a little more balanced, so I'll end up doing this by hand into here to give it a light blend which will Allow him to have a little more styling options and I'll be able to work this in this way and leave some of the length in through here. Alright. So now I'm going to push the hair down into the Clipper blade right through here and, as you can see, I'm maintaining that connection from in through here and it's totally. Ok, if you leave a little bit of length in through this area - and you follow the head shape around this way - that's ok because it does end up being balanced. So it's actually better that we can continue this in somewhat of a downwards motion and blend going. A little bit higher down through here, because here's where the occipital bone is right into here. So now I'm going to repeat this on the other side. So here I'm going to really take caution and get a give myself some room to blend this in by hand. So I'm gon na stop raising the Clippers up where I see the hair wanting to jump up this way, I want to leave a little bit of LinkedIn for there. It'S now, I'm going to connect this on this side. Now, push that hair out of the way and then we're gon na bring this up by hand this way, and you can brush that hair out of the way and give yourself a visual of where you're going to stop and we're going to continue to do it. By hand, that's the thing is you're really mapping this whole haircut out so from here I see okay. I'Ve got from here here to work with as far as cutting by hand, I still have some blending to do. This is looking good into here. I can cut this softly here where it works in and right now we're in really good shape. Now what I like to do is I like to take my brush and I just like to brush all the hair off, because when you're working with this disc, textured hair, it's like needles and it will stick to you and you'll get hair splinters. So you always want to make sure that all the hair is kind of brushed away, and also for your not only your sake but for your clients sake, because they don't want hair on their face. So always always carry one of these to make sure that you're able to get the hair off. So now what we're going to do? I'M going to take a spray bottle like this and I'm just gon na lightly spray it just to get some of the hair out of the way. So I can see the area I'm working with. I don't want to make this too wet because I feel in this area it's easier for me to cut and blend with the hair dry. So I'm going to start here where I left off and as you can see, here's the shorter hair right here and then here's where the longer hair jumps into it. So I'm going to do scissor over comb and I'm going to lightly blend it and I'm using the thumb mostly and I'm lifting and I'm cutting that longer hair to create a nice soft or blend right in through here. Now I'm going to extend this all the way into the back area and again right into here is kind of that that trouble area with the callek, so I'm just gon na lightly blend on the on the top section right above it to kind of softly round It out a little bit to create a nice blend right in through here, then you can go in and do a little bit by hand, but you want to be careful right in this area right in through here now, I'm gon na work right behind it. Now we're we're right in the middle of the back of the head and I'm combing and I'm lifting and I'm combing, and I'm lifting and I'm just making sure that this all works together really nicely again right here. This is where that cowlick likes to take action. So I'm gon na do is gon na. Do a little point, cutting right in through here just to softly blend it. Okay. Now I'm going to work on the entire back part of the head right in through here with the same technique and then we're going to work that into the other side. So you want to constantly be lifting the comb and then combing it back down. Lift the comb, lift the hair and then comb the hair back down and don't be afraid to point cut when it comes to doing scissor over comb or blending in certain areas, point cutting will give a softer edge and a softwear blend, but also it helps you Keep control of certain areas like this one, where the cowlick is so look, we comb it and it lays down nice and smooth, and it's exactly where I wanted to go so any cutting. I do has to be kind of above this area, because now we have this laying down nicely so I'm going to continue around the head shape working towards the other side of the head now, so we'll push this hair out of the way we'll comb, the hair Down and now we're going to again do scissor over comb and pick up where we left off and you can see the longer hairs, will kind of jump out at you when you're raising the comb and that's what you need to cut and that's what needs to Be blended and I don't want to go too high. What we want to do is make sure you have a a good connection between the sides and the back, and I always like to take a step in front of the client to make sure that, especially with this particular hair type, you want to stay in front Of the client so that you can see all different angles and make sure, because if you look at somebody head-on, you'll be able to see what hairs are sticking out this way, if it's not blended, well, you'll be able to tell so. I always like to kind of take a step back and make sure it's all blending really nicely and so far right now, we've got a great connection between all of this and the other side, and now we're going to work into the top all right. So I'm gon na spray Johnny's hair down again a little bit just to keep it a little bit more on the damp side, I'm not looking to soak his hair down completely, I'm just looking to create a little dampness to that, especially for this hair type that The hair doesn't poke me again: it's like needles, this hair type. So what I'm gon na do is I'm going to comb it all straight down and I'm seeing this areas wants to jump up. So I'm gon na leave this hair out of the way and I'm going to pick up above where that is and I'm going to cut I'd say about an inch and a half to two inches off. I pick it up. Let that hair drop down and I'm going to cut that way. I'M going to continue this all the way throughout this side as well. Let that hair drop down and cut above it, and just because what that does is. It leaves the remaining hair and through here longer so that it'll weigh down a little bit now. What I'm going to do is I'm going to connect see, as you can see here, we have the shorter hair that we cut, and now we have to work this all in through here, so we talked about having a shorter length cutting about two inches or so Off this is about two inches off. We need to cut, and now we're going to do is we're going to work from this point on throughout the top into the front. So now we're going to do is we're going to connect and I'm going to take the hair where I last left off, which is right here and I'm going to cut going forward. This way, I'm going to take my next section same thing and I'm going to cut working going that way and what that's allowing me to do. It'S allowed me to go shorter to longer in this area right in through here, because I want to leave a little more length in the front, but now I'm going to comb everything horizontally now and here we have our shape right here. As you can see, here's here's the guide and we're going to cut straight across we're going to take our next section and we're going to cut straight across we're not getting we're gon na work straight down this panel right through the middle and we're not going to The corners yet because I don't want it, I don't want to do the corners yet we're doing right down the middle wherever we could see right in this section, that's we're gon na focus on and I'll show you guys. Obviously, what we're gon na do with the corners, but this gives us a clear path of where we're gon na cut. We can do one more section right here in the front and you can over-direct if you over direct this is over directing it means the hair. Is going to fall longer a lot of times, people will think the hair grows straight up or in fact it grows out this way from the head towards the front. So really, if you're gon na hold it straight out from the head in the front, you're gon na be cutting it like this. Okay, see right in through here, so I'm gon na do is I'm going to comb it more a little more forward this way and I'm going to cut straight across. So it's slight over direction. But now, if I bring this hair back I'll see it's a little bit longer and now I'm going to blend it this way and now this is what's gon na, remove the excess weight and make sure it's all blended. So what I like to do now is I like to just go back throughout the top and whatever here comes in my path and that middle section right into here, I will then cut it. So now we've got this area cut. Now, let's talk about the corners. All right, the corners are just as important, which is right in through this area right in through here. So now, I'm going to take this hair and you can see the longer hair right here and I'm going to cut it now again. This side was completely disconnected and that's fine, but we want to make sure it's gon na be well balanced as well. It can be disconnected. We'Ve got to make sure it's not super heavy right in through here there's the corner, which is the weight right in through here, and that's what you want to take off and when you, when you cut straight down the middle you're gon na, be left with these Longer corners and that's what we're getting rid of is these corners right into here? So now, let's do this side! Okay, we're gon na! Do this side with the corners and get rid of this, and then everything should be falling into place really really soon, all right! So here is the corner area right in through here now remember we were gon na blend this side, all right at the other side, it's completely disconnected, but we're blending this side. So what we're doing is here's where we last left off and we're going to connect it then we'll go back in and do scissor over comb to make sure this side is blended in so we're now working from the top going down into this area and again Here'S a very corner in the front, if you don't cut this, it's going to be very, very heavy and he's not gon na be able to get any volume in through here, and it's not gon na lay right. So I like to comb from underneath lock my hand on top and then connect it now. I will come back to this area and I do need to cut this a little bit shorter, but I want to make sure this is all connected right in through here. So then I'll go through out the top and I'll completely make sure it's rounded out and connected, what's going to keep everything balanced, and I think it's looking pretty good and now I'm going to come in through the front on this side. Now, let's comb this down this way and as you can see, this part is longer right in through here. So I'm going to cut this part right here to make sure this all connects and that's not super heavy and I'm just combing the hair straight down and then I'm going to go back in doing scissor over comb to connect this. But let's go down to the very front: I'm gon na turn Johnny this way a little bit and now I'm going to comb it all down. You'Ll be able to see these longer hairs right through here which need to be cut to make sure everything is all balanced and you can comb it straight down. You can double check if there's any longer hairs or flyaways, you can just cut them right here. Same thing right here, you can point cut for this, and now what I'm going to do is I'm going to blend this in right here by hand and I'm going to lift the comb and work my way up, the head shape and all you're doing is simply Connecting this to the top - and we did most of that work before, but now we're just making it even better, because this is where we left off last time, so I'm doing a little bit of point cutting then I'm raking it back. I'M gon na comb it down, you always want to like cut then comb cut, then comb, and then you can also jump in there and use your hands too. You want to make sure that everything is really working together and now what I'm doing is I'm working up the head shape this way to make sure this all really works in nicely, then you can comb the hair down this way and then start to use your Hands to style it, and I think that this is looking good, it's all coming together. Now we have a little bit more texture into this style. Now we can bring it back. We can add a little more volume right into this area and I think it's coming out really really nice. Now. What I'm going to do is I'm going to go back here. Cuz, I felt an area was heavy and look at this whole piece. This whole piece needs to be caught right here, which we never really addressed, so you bring the hair forward like we talked about before, and then I always say that the hair will kind of jump out at you. The hair will tell you it does really tell you, but it it's kind of obvious when you comb it. So what I'm gon na do now is I'm going to step away. I'M gon na go on this side now and I'm going to comb all this hair down and I'm gon na go back in, and I'm going to point cut like this to make sure that this side isn't extremely heavy and extremely long compared to the other side And that's: what's that's! What'S really crucial about this whole thing is that you have to make sure it's all balanced, because remember, we started with a disconnected side, so we'll brush this over. This all looks really really good. I'M gon na go back in a little bit and do some additional scissor over comb all right, but I really like how this is laying and now what I'm going to do is I'm going to get my thinning shears, I'm going to then just slightly blend in More and soften some of these areas on the sides which creates very soft or blend, so I'm taking my thinning shears right here and I'm just gon na go in right where we did scissor over comb and I'm just gon na lightly cut. This same exact technique says we're over comb, but now we're just using the shears. Let'S do the same thing on the other side, then I'm going to go back in and maybe add a little bit of texture with some point cutting and then we'll clean up the edges. Okay, now I'm going to add some point cutting to this and I'm going to take my shear when is hair completely dry and I'm going to lift the hair like this and I'm going to point cut like so and I'm point cutting probably to the middle of The hair shaft not down close to the scalp and not too far up top here, but just enough to kind of create a little added texture to it, so that he can wear it in a variety of different ways. We want someone more textured. Look if you want something you know to give a little more support and, as you can see here, we're kind of brushing the hair all down forward this way and then we're creating a lot more texture with their hands and that's where this will really help enhance The haircut so now we're going to finish up with this and then we're going to do the edging with our trimmers okay. So we're ready to do the trimming around the edges here around the neck area and what I like to do is you can see where the hair becomes finer into here. You want to kind of follow the natural pattern with a natural hairline, so you always want to be gentle to you. I won't have a gentle touch and we're going to work this all the way down into the nape area, and since I have your attention here throughout the side, it's gon na spin him around a little more this way and we're gon na bring this up. Just a little bit here and we're working with his natural hair pattern. Now I'm pulling the ear away. So you have a clean area right in through here. I'M gon na comb this down again and I'm just lightly arching it a little bit. But I'm following the natural growth pattern, then you stop and you comb it down and then we're gon na pull the ear down like this, and now we're going to come up here on an angle and we're gon na get rid of all this hair right in Through here now we're going to connect that we're gon na round it a little bit this way and then we're gon na come down here now let the ear down, and then I go back in and I'll sometimes go back over it again just enough times that I feel it's clean and it's got a good look right into here and sometimes you have to go back and create a little bit of a higher arch. But again he wears glasses, that's fine and then sometimes you go back in. I do a little bit of free handing like this and now what we're gon na do is what we're done in through here now. Here'S a lot other little trick here. Sometimes, if you want to clean up a little, you know, some of the baby hair is right through here, just to kind of sharpen that up a little bit making sure it's a little neater. You don't want to go too far back or kind of take away. Any of his natural hair - you just want to create a little bit of a cleaner look. You can do that right through here, even the eyebrows a little bit. You can just bring this down here a little bit just to clean it up and you're, really just doing what I call manscaping right now he's doing a little bit of grooming just to make sure it all looks nice and neat, even if you need to trim Any where you see the hair I say get rid of it. If you see it in the ear, if you see it on their face, you know unless they're wearing a beard or something that just get rid of it don't be afraid of it. So now we're going to do the nape area right in through here and again, I'm just gon na follow down the natural hairline. As you can see here, I'm combing down and his hair grows up this way. So I'm going to comb down like this and extend the hair down so that I can make sure I get all those hairs. Then I go over them freehand and I'm going to create a straight line all the way in the nape area, which is creating a hairline right in through here. Sometimes, clients have like moles or something or beauty marks just want to be careful on those. Here again, you can comb the hair down because his hair likes to grow up here. So I'm gon na comb, the hair down and lay the Clipper right over it like this, and that's going to create a nice soft blend right in through here same thing in through here, then you can also go in reverse this way and you can also blend It like that, if needed, we're gon na get into this straight line and then we're going to now the same thing on the other side, where we connect this part, just like we did on the other side, I always like to make sure I'm always have the Comb in my hand, I never let get rid of the comb, because the comb is kind of like your best friend here, because it's gon na help keep you a lot more organized and a lot. You know it's gon na be easier to use as a kind of a guide and keep you more directed and balanced when you're cutting now we're just following around the ear again, you're create you're kind of like contouring and you're following around the natural growth pattern. So here I'm going to hold the hair the ear down this way and I'm going to come around and round this out right through here and that's where we connect it. We'Re going to connect we're going to drop the ear down and come back in again and make sure that everything is nice and neat. This is where the comb comes in, because you comb the hair down any hairs that are longer. You can see them that way and then you can go back in and cut them and I like to do a lot of free handing as well. I like to just pull the ear down and if I see any longer hairs I'll go in and I'll freehand them now. Everyone'S hair grows differently, their hairline their hair patterns on both sides. No two sides are exactly exactly the same and I don't like to create. You know, hair lines again. This is more of a hairstylist approach. I'M going I'm trying to keep his natural hairline in through here I'll, go in a little bit here and just get rid of those some of those baby hairs right in through here, but I'm not really disturbing much of the natural hairline. So it still looks natural right here and then again. If I want to come down a little bit in the eyebrow area, that's fine just to keep it nice and neat, and then what I'm gon na do is I'm going to actually trim his eyebrows and then we should be done with the grooming, all right. So eyebrow trimming is essential all right. It'S a part of keeping well groomed of making yourself look really presentable and it just keeps things looking a lot. You know nice and neat. So if you're, the the stylist, what you want to do is you want to take a look, my first step back and I look at what I'm seeing so I know how much you need to cut so I'll go in it's just like doing scissors over comb And I'll trim them off. Okay, you go into the corner here or lift the hair up and cut. So whatever you see that pops out you get rid of, then you can comb the hair down this way and you get ones underneath when you comb the hair down and you're gon na cut those again, it's just like doing scissor over comb on any part of The head you're going to lift and you cut nice and neat you're, not going super short but you're, just sharpening them up. I'M gon na do the same thing on the other side, all right. So now I'm going to blow-dry. So it is hair just to get all the hair out of the way here want to blow dry the face little get any excess hair off and then what I'm going to do is I'm going to apply a little bit of a styling product. This happens to be a tidal wave, which is one of my hair products. What'S a very nice sea salt volumizing spray, so I'm going to spray that in and then I'm going to blow-dry it and for the blow-dry again. What you want to do is you want to kind of work, this file into place and we're going for some volume into here. So I'm going to lift where I want the volume and I'm using my hands to style this. Alright, your hands are your best tool when it comes to styling hair, I think, especially with men's hair, and then here I'm going to work it down a little bit. This way, to kind of make sure we're laying this cowlick area a little flatter and we're going to work this all down this way using our hands. Okay, now we can bring it back a little bit. We'Ve got some good texture going on and then, if you want to put any sort of finishing product in you can which I'm going to get one and then we'll have the finished result. So I'm going to use my product talc, I'm Johnny, which is a volumizing and aim at styling powder. I'M just going to dab this on because we want to create a textured look, and this is great for more of a finer hair texture for Asian hair or for any hair type, that you're looking to get a little more texture out of, and this is gon Na do the trick so now we've got the product in there now we can start molding it into shape, and I want to go for more of that edgy, a more kind of PC kind of look right through here, and I think we've done the trick here. So you just want to have the client kind of looking at you want to look in the mirror. Have them look this way and then make sure they're good to go here, make sure it's all balanced, make sure it looks great and that you're happy and that they're happy, and I think this came out pretty awesome, and here we have Johnny's finished results. I think he looks awesome. Let'S do another look from the side here. As you can see, it's got a nice taper and I think it came out great. What do you think man, you love it or what haha well guys? Thank you so much for watching this in-depth tutorial and I'll see you guys next time on more videos on the salon guy on demand.