Coral Sunset Hair Color Tutorial

Hello, hello, hair bestie: how are you doing so today we're going to talk about coral, pastel, soft, pink colors? It'S one of my favorite color combination to do. I want to do like almost like a sunset type of color, so with pastel colors, we always got ta. Put it on level 10.. I know i know a lot of people. I know you're thinking like why does it always have to be on level 10? Not every color has to be on level 10.. If you're doing dark. Color rich colors, like you know, like a deep rose, color, deep red color, a fiery orange or yellow color. It could be on darker hair, but because we're doing soft pastel color it needs to have a clear canvas. So clear canvas would be a level 10., and so this is a mannequin head and that's why her hair is already pre-lightened for us. Now, on your clients, hair or your hair, you could pre-lighten using big nine cream lightener, which lists up to nine levels, or you can use magnum eight, which is our powder lightener that can lift up to eight levels. You can mix them together to create a hybrid. The guy tang identity, colors and lighteners are amazing. You can check it out on mydandycolor.com by the way when lifting dark hair like myself, i'm a natural level. Three, you can see here as we go up and want to go blonde right, you're going to get natural underlying pigments. Here, it's going to turn red orange yellow before it gets to a level 10.. This is the hardest step to do is the lightning process, and that's why using big nine is very important, because it's going to get you up to nine levels of lift which will help you achieve a level 10 result, and this is where you get that clear Canvas to start with, so, if you we have certain situations where we can't tell if the hair is level 10 or 9 always use this swatch page, which you can get in the swatch book. Okay, so the swatch book looks like this and you order online and this swatch chart comes with it. The swatch page insert it's very helpful. What i find is that if i ever get confused, i just put the page next to the hair, and you can see this is a level 10 because had it been a level 9, it would look a lot more. Yellow, yellow will always interfere with pastel colors. So think about lavender, you know it's violet tone, so a violet will cancel, yellow so you're not going to get a true lavender color. That'S why it has to be put on level 10 right. So we are going to mix the pastel colors here. Well, we're not going to mix we're going to apply the pastel color today and there's an option of charcoal arctic blue, pink diamond lavender, lust mint of steel and cosmic coral. So these are the darker pigments. These are in the super power shades. Now, if you want any of these shades to be deeper, you could go to the corresponding darker shades and inject any of the darker pigments into the pastel pigment to intensify the tones and enrichen and deepen the color. So they won't be as soft. If you only lift it to a level nine right, so, for example, you can always do add green aurora to men of steel. If you want to darken the mint of steel, you could always add the ocean rain into the arctic blue to darken it. You could always add pink possession into the pink diamond if necessary or violet sorcery into the lavender lust okay. So i'm going to start off with using charcoal charcoal it's one of my favorite colors for shadow rooting, and i know a lot of folks always ask me: why does he always do a shadow root? Well because i don't want to put pink right on the scalp. It'S going to look like a hot root: it's going to look like a wig. The whole thing about doing these fun, colors and making them look. Natural is making them look real and believable and real people have a rooted shadow at the scalp. So that's why i always do charcoal and i know a lot of times. We always think charcoal is black, because every time i use it and i do a video on instagram or youtube or anything, everyone always thinks it's black upside guys. It'S not black. I promise you okay, so i'm going to squeeze that out and i know in the bowl it can appear like it's black, so i want to show you up close here. So when you take a look at charcoal on the bowl, it can appear black, but it's not - and you can see here by me just touching the the color and then just kind of massaging it on my hands here. Look at that. You see how it's very like grayish, it's charcoalized, had it been black, my hands would have been stained, so charcoal is not black. I wish i can you guys, can see it in person, so you get to see that it's not black, see that it's charcoal. It'S very soft. Every time i post charcoal on my instagram, i was like why he bleach her hair to a level 10 and put black on it. You guys it's charcoal period all right, so the next shade into this ombre that i'm going to be doing is lavender less because her hair is a level 10 already. I don't need to inject any darker pigments into it. I'M just going to use lavender less by itself, so you get to see the pure soft iridescence of this lavender. Okay, squeeze it right on in just like that: okay and then the next color i'm gon na do is pink diamond. I love the pink diamond color because it's like a baby pink, it's very, very soft, delicate and beautiful. But if you want to add more pigment to it, you can always inject pink possession in it to make it deeper. So when you squeeze out pink diamond, you can see, the color is very soft. I do want a little bit more pigment in there, so i am going to squeeze out a little bit of pink possession and let me squeeze out one more tube, because this mannequin does have some hair so just to make sure so i don't have to remix. Okay, all right, so the next color i'm gon na squeeze in is pink possession pink possession is the deeper pink of pink diamond. So i will show you the swatch here again, so you can see pink possession here, how much pigment that has and how little pigment the pastel pink diamond has. So i'm going to squeeze out this pastel first, which is a pink diamond and just a little bit of that pink possession color will give it a little bit more pigment. So it looks more deep. I want the paint to pop just a little bit more because i feel like sometimes it can get lost right. So here we go, i'm going to squeeze that right on out just a little bit pink possessions going in just like so, and we are going to mix it so that way, that pink diamond has a little bit more pigment and look a little bit more intensified. Okay and the next color i'm going to use is cosmic coral. Cosmic coral is very, very beautiful. It'S actually one of my top favorite shades because it looks very, very vibrant, but yet delicate and soft. At the same time like when i squeeze that cosmic coral in you can see how soft but vibrant the color is going to be, i feel, like a lot of us, can get intimidated when we think about warm tones, but not with the cosmic coral. It'S very very like wearable after you lift the hair to level 10. The hair is always going to be compromised. So with the pausing color, especially the direct dye super power color. I always want to make sure it's extra conditioning now the direct dyes already has argan seed oil. Everything that you need to repair the hair soften the hair add shine, but i want to rebuild the bun, so i'm going to add plenty of olaplex in now. During this time i add more olopex than i normally would, because with olaplex it has a ph of 3.5 right, so you're closing the cuticle to the hair, adding more shine re-adjusting the ph because you're dropping the ph down at this point, because when hair is freshly Bleached or bleach at all, the ph is a lot higher, so you want to kind of balance out that ph. So that's why i use more olaplex than i normally would now, when i am applying olaplex to bleach or permanent color or demi-permanent color. I use less because you don't want the ph to interfere with the lift and tonal deposit, but with direct dyes. That'S not the case right, because the recti sit in a a conditioning base. So that's why the ph will not interfere with the dye deposit. So now, i'm also going to add the guidance collagen powder. This is my favorite. If you have not tried a gaiten collagen powder, you need to this. Is everything i'm going to do a full scoop for this, because the full scoop ensures maximum repair? Okay, you get that maximum boost, so collagen is known for anti-aging, as we all know um, especially in the skin care world. In the supplement world, it helps with the elasticity of our skin and our hair and and also you know, strengthen the or you know the connective tissues in our joints and everything. So that's why it's very very important to have collagen in the hair, especially after lightening and bleaching. So this is really cool. Make sure you try it. You can pick it up at cosmoprof all right. So, let's take a look at the olaplex, so you can see here the charcoal i have olaplex and the collagen boosting powder in there, the guy 10 collagen boosting powder. What i love about adding olaplex in also when i add a little bit more. I love that it softens up the consistency, furthermore, also and also ensuring that we stay right on that low ph now the color is already at a low ph because it's direct dye, but look at that fluid consistency. I get and also the collagen powder in there. As well ensures that it doesn't get too liquidy, it balance out the consistency right. This is a necessary step that i love to take just because you know why not repair the hair, while you're depositing it only makes sense and your clients love how soft their hair feels. So what i love is we create a shadow root here with the charcoal going into the next shade, which is the lavender go into the third shade. I call this the mid shade, which is the pink right. This is the pink diamond mixed with a little bit of pink possession to give it a little bit more pigment and then the highlight color, the cosmic coral right. This is going to ensure that we have brightness and movement that travels through the hair. Now, when dealing with lighter brighter colors, sometimes less is more you're going to see it pop because it's going to stand out more anything with warmth in it will always pop anything. That'S cool will always absorb right, so light reflects dark. You know, absorbs all right. Let'S get started so this is the front of the mannequin or your client's face. This is very crucial when doing the sectioning, so you can see her natural part line. You know she came out of the box, so she's a little bit like squashed in, but you can see her part line is right through here, so we're gon na see that she's gon na park pretty close to the center. So i want to have a money piece, so when doing your ombres, i always make sure the money piece really really pops, but you see how her hair kind of falls forward so because her hair falls forward, your money piece is going to be hidden. So this is where i always make sure to kind of lay the hair down to see how it falls. But i don't want that big old stripe that you always see with money pieces, so we're going to do a triangle. We'Re going to section this in just like that: we're going to do a triangle, so the triangle from this point of a widow's peak, we're going to kind of go down, and you can see this triangle point and then you you take this point and you go Right back to create a diamond shape right. This is very important here. This helps us create our ombre and knowing, where we're gon na drag, which color down. So everything from this point we're gon na get a lot of coral everything from the top we're going to get more lavender falling down. So the coral can pop. So that's why pre-sectioning is kind of important it helps you determine how the hair falls. Now you see the back of her head, there's that diamond point, and now we're going to go right back to the next uh to the parietal, going right up. Okay, just like so, and i'm going to clip all of this out of the way and then went turn her right back again. So now she's right back to the front, as you can see now we're going to reconnect that diamond point into her widow's peak where her part line is so you see this from this point, you're going to go right in see that make sure you create that Sharp point that way, your money piece will really really pop. So remember the hair will fall and then the money piece popped through all right. So we're going to clip this up and let's get started. Look you want to analyze your client's hair length where you want to place the color, so you can see here. This is her length right. So, knowing that this is going to be the underneath section, i'm going to place charcoal right at the routage, because it's going to create what we call a shadow root right then the next color is lavender. We need to place the cool color next to the charcoal, because cool makes more sense as it on breaks down. Warm color looks best when it's on the ends, because it reflects more it creates, like you know, it makes your eyes travel, so you want your eyes to naturally travel and move towards the ends. I know some of us want the scalp to be brighter, but what happens is you're going to draw the attention towards the the roots or the scalp? And that's fine there's like really eyelash. You know when you want that hot root. Look that's a trend, and that looks cool too, and it gives you that edge. But when you want to look more fluid and flowy and naturally how the hair will grow out, i find that the warm tones look best on the ends. So we're going to do charcoal, lavender, pink and cosmic coral alright. So this is the part that everyone always gets. Scared of. You can see that i'm painting that charcoal right on that scalp on that blonde hair and everyone's like. Why is he taking her hair black and you could clearly see it's not black? It'S just charcoal, because it's in contrast to the blonde, it's gon na look black right anytime. You put some pigment into blonde hair. It'S always gon na look dark, even though it's not and i feel like the camera, never captures it right like how we see with our own eyes, and we always get scared when we just look at the cosmetic part of the dye, and we are thinking. Oh, my god, this is too dark, but always remember always kind of go like this, wipe it and when you wipe it down, you realize, oh, that is kind of soft. The color is not as scary as you would think. So that's why charcoal is the perfect color to create the shower root? It creates a muted scalp, so our focus won't be on the scalp right. So i'm outlining to define the section and i'm going to go all the way around right. It just makes life so much more easier when you get to outline the section, because you get to control the hair when you already place it on the scalp. So now that we have already applied the charcoal down on the routage, i'm just going to divide the nape area in half, so i can work up one section at a time. So now it's very important to make sure you take fine sections. So i'm going to stretch the hair off to the side, so i don't have to use clips so that way i could kinda. This is okay. This is why it's important to put the charcoal down first, because the color at the base helps you move and manipulate the hair without using clips right. I could just move the hair off to the side and it's going to sit where i want to so it exposed this area, so i get to apply color through this area. So now what i'm going to do is i'm going to use that charcoal and swipe it down right, i'm not applying any more color just wipe to create that merge. Just like that, and now i'm gon na apply the lavender. Okay use your palm. That'S your platform to paint, and you want to pack on the color very, very nice and thick right here. So that way you get to move that color down the strands of the hair right just like so a swipe swipe, swipe, never rope! You always want a flat panel flat. Paneling looks like this. You lay the hair in a panel like so you want to drag it pretty low here, because in the nape area i really want to make sure i get a lot of cool tones because the cool tones will help frame the face in the nape area and Mimic what nature would look like if you were to do brown hair with highlights that's what i'm doing with the rainbow colors is i'm mimicking. You know what you want to do is almost imagine turning the picture black and white, and what the highlights will look like and that's why it's very important, knowing that cool tones will always absorb more that's. Why i'm dragging down the cool tones to make it look like about to turn it black and white, that this is the brown color and then the coral will look like the blonde color? That'S how it always registers so well, when i do these ombres and color melts right, just like so swipe, and you can see everything is in the panel. So that way, i get to trace back where i place these panels and reapply the next formula. You want to go ahead and finish the lavender throughout all of it, so you can work faster and don't cross contaminate and allow the color to soak in. By doing so, you allow the dyes to soak right into the hair, so it doesn't cross transfer just like so because a lot of times i find that a lot of us try to do the ombre right away. The first section we try to drag the coral and the pink and too many things at once and that's when you get bleeding issues and you get you end up taking way too much time. This goes by so much more quick, quick quicker and the color will look a lot better. I'M gon na do this till i get all the way around the head. Okay, so you can see how far i drag that lavender down you can see. I drag it. Pretty far leaving out the ends here, the last about five to six inches of ends, wipe your gloves down, because you don't want to contaminate because the next color will be the pink. So now i'm going to open the hair back up going right back to the ends here and i'm going in with that pastel pink diamond. So i am applying this right through where i see the blonde just like so, and i'm going to tap it before. I go in and do the melt right because this allows for me or for us to really see the pink pop on its own, because when you start melting it down swiping it you're going to cross contaminate right away, not giving it time to sink in. So this is very, very crucial that you do this now. This does take an extra step, but what i find is that the end result will have more vibrancy and more purity within each tone. Now this is something i've been doing. You don't have to do this if you want to melt right away, you can, if that's the intention and the color result you want. I want the pink to really pop on its own. So that's why it's important that i place the pink where i see the blonde first just like so i find that this works best because right when the color or the dye sink into the hair you're going to get that pure vibrancy, so it won't cross contaminate. I know some of us would be like. Oh well, there's certain color lines that don't bleed. That'S not the point. The reason why there's more bleedage within color with certain brands is because there's more pigment when you have less pigment and you have more dyes sitting inside the conditioning base, you're not going to get bleedage. That'S why, with the cool thing about having the ability to swipe the color back and forth and have a little movement, is because there is more dye load, meaning the color lasts longer. Okay, so you see there i'm tipping out everything, but the ends here. The ends is where the corals is, where i'm going to apply the coral. Now it's pastel, so you're not going to get much bleeding or bleeding at all, but this is just that necessary step i like to take to ensure you get vibrancy all the way see just like that, and then what i'm going to do is go back over Where i started open the hair right back up like this - and this is when i am gon na - apply the pink right over that lavender and swipe, and this is gon na - create another tone. You'Re gon na create what i call a lilac tone because we're doing color on color now right - and this is where you can get that transition - see that you allow that part to be a cooler lavender and now adding that pink end right through here. On top of that, lavender you can get another in between tone, so you create another color within itself without cross contaminating without mixing another batch of color. Pretty pretty clever. If you ask me all right, when you're introducing pink into lavender, you get lilac because lilac has more of a pinker tone. Landers more of an a bluer tone see that pack on that color right on top to get that merge and look at that transition. Go it's so beautiful right! This is one of my favorite methods to create a color mount, an ombre that blends seamlessly see it's color and color. You can see how it's just flowing through okay and make sure to leave the ends out because we're going to apply the coral next, so you see the ends the tips. The coral is going to pop on these tips. So you can see how i left the tips out now. It doesn't look like much hair there, but you'll be surprised how this will pop with the coral right on the ends. Just that little bit of tip out will really pop, and you can see it ready right when that coral touch. Look, how beautiful that coral is. If you have not tried a coral, you are missing out, because the coral is one of our top selling shades and everyone loves it because it brings so much movement to the hair, and you can see here without this coral. You would not get this pop and you can see it's not orange. I think a lot of people when we think of coral, we think of orange, but look at that. It'S not orange. It'S almost like a salmon e type of color, so it has like a fleshy reflection of pink that makes it so beautiful. That'S the cool thing about the coral is that it has that brightness softness at the same time, without looking orange, because sometimes um i've tried. So many corals in the past and it can look orange and it's just like. Oh, i didn't want that. I want it to look soft just like this. You can see here how that just gon na blend seamlessly. You always need to have a little bit of a soft warmth that you're getting in these colors because it allows the ombre to move so take a look at that tip out coral. Look what that does to that final result here. So if we have not placed this coral in, we would not get this beautiful sunset. Look this soft pastel sunset. So it is a top-selling shade and it's beautiful and if you haven't tried, you got ta, try it out and look at the movement it create right. So and i'm going to do the same thing on this side, you can see right here. Look at that. Barely you're like oh, that doesn't have much blonde, and i think that we always try to put too much um into the hair. Sometimes less is more right, and this is the case right here. You can see how just a little bit of coral on those tips is gon na really really pop in the end result see that look at that difference. It makes, and i feel like we're, always trying to be like. Oh, we don't want warmth because we stereotype everything to be orange, but you can see how just adding coral will create that much more pop and i my situation is never let your clients tell you what they want. Sometimes they can tell you, but sometimes they don't know what they want. So always give suggestions, tell them what you know the color can look like. If you add coral in so it creates movement, and you can see here. This is going to be the final result. When we're done, you can see the ombre so now i'm going to move into the front, so we're going to hit both sides just like that to each section and just apply that lavender gently on the hair, we're not going to saturate. Yet just i just need to get the product on there so that way we get to move it along quicker and not spend so much time trying to saturate and just kind of move it away from her face just like so, and we are not trying to Spread the lavender down to the ends, we're just tapping right at that second zone outside of the root edge like that, and this is going to ensure that we get that blend because sometimes when we try to color melt at in these little crucial areas, we start Dragging the lavender down too low and then the shadow will go down too far. So you'll see me kind of overlap the lavender over the charcoal, because they blend very very well together as you can see, but you don't want to drag it down too far, because then you're going to lose that money piece right just like so and make sure We wipe her skin, not that it will stain her skin because it's pastel anyway, but we still want to keep our work environment, nice and clean. So we look professional right, okay, just like so okay, so right back here. Okay, let's go blend that down right back here with the color. That'S on that hair, just kind of bring it down further, just like that drag that down, because that's right behind that face frame. You want this lavender to hug that face. Okay, i'm not going to apply any more, i'm just going to drag and massage okay when it's massaged right to left. Okay, just like that see just the amount of product that's on, there is good enough. Okay, this is the key here all right. I want the hairline. These mannequins are a little bit more harder to deal with. Okay, so now we're going to get that pink possession place it right on the blonde area down here near the tips, but leave those tips out and now we're going to overlap that pink diamond over the lavender. And this is what's going to give it that more vibrancy, see that and then without contaminating the pink ends. We'Re moving on to the next section. Okay, just like that pack on that pink diamond, make sure you massage left and right because you got to get that product into the hair. Okay, before you start moving it up, because you don't want that cross contamination leave enough ends out, because you need that cosmic coral to go in okay and most of us would probably question like. Why have i not colored the top yet? Well, you could, but the reason why i left that top out is because i want to show you guys in the back how i drag the lavender down lower and the top part i'm actually going to bring the cosmic core up higher in some areas right. So this is a very important area here: okay, i'm going to slope down with that pink diamond, okay and just kind of leave it out start soaking in i'm going to apply that cosmic coral right on that face frame immediately overlapping that section, because you want the Coral to overlap the pink a little bit so it'll pop right along that face frame, but it'll still blend and then kind of side swipe it down. Just like that, and that's what it's going to ensure that you get that blend. Okay, i'm just going to lay this little cotton down that way. We don't stain the face right so now we get to tip out the rest of it with the cosmic coral. So you can see how the ends are left out. There'S not that much, but it's still going to pop make sure you apply on the ends. First before you start melting it upwards. Okay, because the coral goes with the pink very, very well use your hand as a platform and blend it through and start swiping, and look at how the color starts to merge together and blend right down seamlessly her head. You can see how the hair the coral is melted down. You can see the face frame popping more and then, as i move to the back. You'Ll see a graduation of the color going up and down you'll, see pink kind of going up higher lavender going down lower, and that's why i left the top out so now we're on this side. The only thing i need to do now is add cosmic coral to the ends and kind of melt it through as quick as i can. One of the things that i find is that a lot of us can get burnt out really easily as hairstylists right, especially during you know the quarantine times, because it's a struggle because you're, like oh, my god, people don't think we're essential it's hard to make money. Everybody wants us to do their hair for free. We feel like we're, taking advantage of no one takes it seriously everywhere we go people's like. Oh, what do you think you should you know i should do with my hair? Oh, can you do it for free? We feel like we're not ever taken seriously as hair stylist, and you know, especially with the rise of like social media and everyone's an influencer. Then i feel, like a lot of us, are getting into hair for not the right reasons. Everyone'S wanting to be an influencer or an educator, but what i feel is really important is to be educated first before you educate, always know that we need to learn, i i'm always constantly learning. I don't always think i know everything, no matter where you're at in your life. Sometimes i feel, like you know as humans, we could get an ego very quickly. You know all it takes is, like you know, maybe an instagram following or or maybe we have a book clientele and also, we think we're the best hair stylist. But no, we have to like remember we're still able to learn more, whether it's men's haircuts, braiding, updo styling and i think always keep an open mind to know that there's room to expand and room to learn. And i think that when we think we know everything we stop, you know being passionate. I think that we have to put our ego aside and realize that hey we're all still learning in life and remember where we came from, i think that's the most important thing. I know for me a lot of times like oh my gosh, i get so tired. I i overwork myself and i realize, oh, my god, am i losing my passion. You never want to lose that fire from within. Remember why you do hair to begin with. We do it because it's fun and when you remember that you'll never get tired of hair, because i have moments where i go: oh my god, i'm so tired. But then i go. Oh my god, but every time i touch someone's hair. It brings me right back to life. It gives me so much purpose, and i know it does the same for you. So always remember that. Sometimes you need to take a step back and get creative in multiple outlets, and then you really remember why you love doing hair. When you step back in okay, you can see how i move the curl up higher and the cool thing is that you can lay color over color and that's the thing you separate you isolate, and then you lay the color on top of the other color, because It still has room to absorb more dyes right and then this is when you can melt blend, and you can see what's happening here, see that i melt and blend, and it's going to look very beautiful now, if you want the ends to stay vibrant because sometimes The charcoal shallow root, if you let marinate inside the water and the ends are very porous, porous ends will grab and it mutes out the color. So if you want the ants to stay poppin, you can put the ends inside of a foil to ensure that none of the shallow color merge into it. If it's sitting in the water marinating inside the bowl, let her sit for 20 minutes to marinate and process and we'll be like all right guys. We'Re done with the hair coloring. So take a look at that charcoal routage that you see at the top. It really meets that scalp and it creates that iridescent transition into the lavender lust now keep in mind. The lavender lust has to combat a lot of yellow that naturally occurs in blonde hair. So that's why you get a little bit of that. Almost metallic finish to that lavender loss and if you want to deepen it, you can add purple raven to add more depth to the tone. But i love how soft and pastel this looks, increase that opal-like reflection and go into that pink diamond and transition into that cosmic coral. I truly believe that the cosmic coral really ties everything in together, because anything with a little bit of warmth will expand and anything. That'S cool will compress and that's why you're, seeing that face frame with that warmth, really just hugs her face. Take notice that your eyes naturally just gravitate towards that cosmic coral because of that little touch of warmth. So it's very important to always put a little bit of warmth into the hair, so it reflects more. You can go to mydandycolor.com to place your order for any of the shades that i use today, or your cosmoprof store or armstrong mccall store as well, so anyway thumbs up subscribe. I hope you like this video and download my music love. You bye us in the ocean, rising you