Understanding Hair Color●Levels●Underlying Pigments●Neutralizing●Tint-Backs/Fillers

Hey everybody: today's video is about understanding, hair color, I'm going to be going over the underlying pigments of each hair level and also the neutralizing color, which is also toning and also going to be teaching you guys my version of how I do tip backs now. I have my Paul Mitchell, the color swatch book here, just to make it a little bit easier, I'm going to grab the natural brown swatch here and it goes over all the natural levels of hair. So these top two dopes do not mind those this one is just a toner on this one is a high lift, so kind of just ignored those. So then we have level 10 all the way down to level 1, so level 10 is considered the latest natural blonde and then 9 very light natural blonde 8 light natural blonde. Sometimes it is considered medium blonde low, depending on the color line. 7 is just natural blonde or it can be considered medium or dark. Blonde 6 dark natural blonde and 6 actually appears Brown to most people, but that is considered a dark blonde or a really really light. Brown number 5 is light. Natural Brown number 4 is just natural brown, which is also like a medium to dark brown. Number 3 is dark. Natural Brown number 2 is darkest natural brown, or this can be considered the brown this black because it does appear basically black and then number one is just straight black or can be considered jet black with a blueish undertone. So now that I explained what shade each of these levels is, I'm going to tell you guys what the underlying pigments of each are. This one is the palest yellow, which some people even have to leave their bleach like the pale yellow color. I'M has a it. Yellow undertone 8 has a gold undertones. What'S between like a yellow and an orange, and all of these can basically just be toned with a toner and then the rest you have to use color 7 has an orange undertone. 6. Has a red orange 5. Has an orange undertone 4 has a red violet undertone 3 has a violet undertone 2. Has a blue violet undertone, so it's more blue than violet and then one has a blue undertone. That is why jet blacks usually have that blue undertone when you use it to color your hair. So now that I went over what the undertones are, I'm going to tell you how to neutralize those or like the colors that do neutralize them 10 and 9. You can use a violet tone or violet based color to neutralize the yellow. Since 8 has a gold undertone, you can use a blue violet, but usually what I do is if it's an orange II gold color, I will use a curl or a violet toner and then mix it with an ash. So did you look at half-and-half? Typically, like I said 7 on down, you can't really use a toner. You can try, but the toners. I use don't really work past that point 7. You can use a blue based hair color and that will neutralize the orange and a 7 and 4 6 and a 5. You can use a blue and green base because those are opposite on the color wheels for these two and for a 4 all the way to a 2. You can use green because green is the opposite of those red tones and then there really isn't a neutralizing color for black, because I could be a little wrong on this. But I think black is almost made up of every single color. So, there's not really a neutralizing color for this tone I kind of went over what you can use to neutralize, which is toning hair. So that is what you can do, depending on the level that you are, and I know sometimes, if you don't have a book or a swatch like this, it is sort of hard to determine what level that you are at, but most the time you can go Into Sally's - and they will have something like this - maybe not all like on the same - a little swatch book, but they will have them in the aisle where, like the colors, I think they have them like on the Shelf right there. So you can kind of determine or even have a Sally's rep sort of help. You determine what level you are at. That is the only place. I know that would probably have swatch books other than going to a salon and finding out what level you are at. I wouldn't say that really eyeball it unless you are licensed professional and have been doing it for a while. Even I have trouble eyeballing sometimes, but for the most part I can kind of guess what each level is and then, like I said from ten I'm down to eight, you can use typically a toner, or at least the Paul Mitchell toners work on that. But anything from a seven on down, you will have to use just a typical hair color to sort of neutralize that and when using a hair color to neutralize, I would not use a permanent. I would use a demi-permanent which is a deposit only in the Paul Mitchell line, what I like to do, since we just have to switch out the developers. I will use a five volume because Paul Mitchell developers are a little different than the standard developers. I have a sheet here and you're, probably not gon na, be able to see it, but the permanent. You can use 20 30 or 40 volume and it's typically on dry hair. Then they have high lifts, which you use 40 or double 40, which is pretty typical for high lifts, or sometimes you can use 30 and then five volume is for demonym and you use this on damp hair, which you also use five volume with their toners 10 Foam is semi-permanent and you can use that on damp hair. Also, I've also used on dry have not had a problem, and then the toners, like, I said, use five volume with that, because it is a deposit. Only color is not going to lift your hair. I think I kind of went over the toners and what to use. I also have a toning video in like a toning, shampoo and conditioner video. I'M gon na have a link down below. If you guys want to check out that a little bit more, I go a little bit more in depth with toners, but now I do want to go over. How I do my tint backs say that you are, or you have somebody coming in. That has a lot of a level 10, which is the lightest blonde or, I want to say bleach mom, but it is the lightest blonde you can get. Naturally, this is like the natural tones a lot of why's. They also have like 11s and 12s, but, like I said Paul Mitchell, the 10 is the lightest. You can go so say you are basically an all-over level 10 and you want to go. Let'S say to a 6 which is like, I said, considered a dark line, but that appears to be a light brown to most people. So you are jumping 1, 2, 3 4 levels, so there's 3 levels in between anywhere jumping down for full levels from where you want to be are from where you are currently at sorry. The first thing obviously have to determine what you are, but, like I said, for this example, we are just going to say a level 10 blond all over just to make it a little bit easier and that, once you have determined what you are and where you Want to be, you do have to use a filler and I'm not next play what a filler is, but the main reason you want to do. That is because, if you were just to dump a 6n on your hair, it's probably going to turn out really dark. Like a few level structure than you want to be - and it's also going to be really muddy, looking, it's probably going to have no shine to it's going to look dull and almost have a gray or a green cast, because your hair is missing. Some of these pigments, like the orange pigments, that your hair needs to have to be this color because you are so light, you only have the pale yellow undertone in your hair. So, like I said, a level 6 has a red orange undertone. So what you need to do is pick a demi-permanent color in between those or two levels lighter than the color that you want to be in the end. So I'm going to jump up to levels which is an 8 n and, like I said, the 8 n has a gold undertone. So what you're going to want to do is make sure that you put a gold undertone in your hair, because you're trying to fill in the gaps of what your hair is missing. I hope that makes sense that I know this can be kind of confusing, but a 10 has gold undertone. So you want to make sure that you have that in your hair before you even come close to putting this 6 on your hair and the Paul Mitchell. Color line does have a yellow gold, hair color line or range whatever you want to call it and, like I said you, anyone who is an 8. So what I would do is use the 8g and it's the light golden blonde and that is going to put in gold back into the hair. So I would use this color right here and that's going to put that gold back into the hair, and what you want to do is leave that on for about 15 to 20 minutes, depending on the color that you are using Paul Mitchell's demi-permanent colors use a Five volume and they process for 20 minutes and you can get your hair damp, but since you're going to be putting a color over top, I'm not quite sure it would make a huge difference. But, like I said, all color lines are going to be completely different. So you might even be using a 10 volume demi-permanent hair color, depending on the line you are using, so make sure that you do look for that. You probably will not be using a fat volume Paul Mitchell, color lines. Developers are a little different like I said so. What I would do is put this on for about 15-20 minutes, maybe not the full 20 and then what you want to do is you can either watch the hair rinse it and towel dry it or you can blow-dry it or you can literally just wipe off All the extra color at this point and then you can go ahead and take your 6n or if you want your result to be even warmer, you can actually like mix in a reddish-brown color. Let'S just say six end. The punchline is a little bit warm they're. Naturals are so, then you could just put the six end right on top of that, and let that process or probably the 20 minutes or you can even leave it a little longer. You just make sure that you watch it. I would say only leave it on for the recommended time so Paul Mitchell, 20 minutes with the five volume. So that is how I would do that. Then you would just shampoo condition after and you would be left with a really pretty six, and that is not muddy at all, because you did fill it with that 8 gold color, like I said, going any darker. You don't have to go to shades above where your end result is going to be so. Let'S say that you were wanting to be at a four well, you have to go up to a level six and the level six is a red orange. So I'm going to look here and potential actually does have a bright orange is considered the RO, so I would actually put in the six ro, which is right here, and I hope you can see how red orange that is. It does not have a brown undertone at all, so, like I said, just really depends on where you're starting and where you want to be just make sure that you determine both of those before you do anything with your hair and always always always use a filler. When you are going darker, even if you were let's say to be a level 10, I wanted to add eight and lowlights. If you were just to put a 10, it's going to turn out really ashy, which a lot of people do not mind. I don't necessarily mind a little bit of a Sheerness to my hair, but I also don't want it to look muddy or gray, and that kind of leaves me with never use ash when you are doing tip backs. If you have like hair, your hair re is missing all of those red orange gold pigments, it's already missing all of those, so you have to be really careful, or else you can end up with some pretty muddy hair and it's probably going to fade pretty fast. Also, if you're not going to be using a filler even with using a filler, it's kind of fade a little bit. But if you do not use a filler at all like I said it can either turn really really dark and muddy, and it will also fade quite a bit. I don't think it would ever really turn a pretty color and even after a few washes, if it doesn't look as bad as it typically did, you still are going to be doing it wrong. Technically - and I don't I hate to kind of say, like people are doing it wrong, but you definitely do want to use a filler because it will work to your benefit. Trust me. It is not something that you want to just throw on your hair, and I know when I was not a licensed cosmetologist even before going to cosmetology school. I would just go look at a box at the drugstore and say: oh I want that color. It typically. Never works that way. It always ends up a different color than what you're expecting. So I just actually do a color correction. Yesterday on a girl. She was probably a level 8 naturally, and we had used bleach with a low volume just to kind of lift, somewhat color, to get her to a light blond and then whatever was left out, I put 10 and on it. So she was a literally a 10 with maybe like 11 or 12 bleach highlights so very very light, and she said she wanted to be like a light brown or like a dark blonde. Just looked at the box and thought that that was a pretty color. So she looked on the back and it always says like if you are this color, it will end up this color and honestly, that's probably going to be a very rare occasion when that happens because, like I said she didn't, have a filler in her hair. So she put that color on first and I think she said she used like the cheapest one at the drugstore, which I used to do too. So I can't really say a whole lot about that, but she put it on her hair and she didn't like the color. It turned out pretty patchy and it wasn't a very nice color. So she went and got another brand box color and put it on her hair because it was, it was a little bit darker than what she had been and, like I said she was a very, very light blonde. So, technically that first back she used was considered the filler. I guess you could say, and then she put the second box on and it grabbed her hair. So quick and it ended up almost black, and I couldn't do her hair like three or four days after so I had faded a little bit just from her washing it so much trying to get some of that out and she also used like a Sally's Malibu Treatment and she had used Dawn dish, soap and it was so packed in there didn't really do a whole lot, so just her washing her hair so often was starting to fade it. So I'm from like a black to a dark brown with medium brown pieces kind of intertwined in so it took me four hours to correct. I had to do a bleach wash or a bleach bath soap cap, whatever you want to call it. It'S mixing bleach developer and I used 20 volumes since it was so dark. We were trying to get her back to a pretty light blonde and you want to mix it with shampoo. So I did that for about 15 minutes and it lifted it to a light brown. It even had some dark line pieces in it, and then I had to go through and use a. I mixed. A natural and a pearl natural Paul Mitchell has a pearl natural, which is like a smoky natural undertone, which is the natural that I have in my hair. It'S not warm at all, so I did that on her roots. I did some blonde highlights and on the bottom I use 30 volume on the top I used 40, and I would not recommend doing that on yourself. It literally only took about 20 minutes and then we've rinsed it off, and I also want to say that her whole head was literally foiled. I had to do three blonde to a low-light and I just used the same low-light color I used on her roots. I mixed a nine N and an 8 P n, which is the pearl natural. So I did that on a roots and then I mixed in whatever was left out for the low-light color and, like I said after I was done, processing 20 minutes and then I used what Paul Mitchell has it takes the record flash? It was the blue violet. I see toner something like that and it's not the ultra toller's, like I typically use when I put that on her roots first and then blended it down to the end the last minute and it turned out to be a really nice result. Now that is pretty untypical say your haircolor does go dark and you just want to be blonde again. You have hep on underneath, but it still you have to be very careful removing that dark that you put on top of it and, like I said, if it goes too dark, I would try everything first before using bleach like I said she used on dish. Soap a few times and then she also used like a Malibu treatment from Sally's, not the Malibu brand, but it's basically the same thing. So that's what she used and that kind of removed some of the color. And that's why I did not want to go in. First, just like going straight with the blonde highlighting like using bleach with the 30 or 40 volume, because I knew it would take longer and it would be on the hair longer, and I did not want that at all. So I did the bleach wash and that lifted some of the extra build-up color and it actually turned out to not be a really bad color at all. I lifted it to about a level 7 with, like a level 8 piece is kind of going through, so that is this an example of what can happen when you do not really use a filler and you're, not quite sure what you're doing so. I did want to throw that in there. I am NOT like scolding anybody who does this, because I have done it myself plenty of times before I even went to cosmetology school, but this is why I wanted to sort of explain a scenario of what can happen when you don't really know what you're doing With your hair and blonde hair, usually, if somebody has blonde hair naturally or has been gone for a long time, dark hair is going to be a shock to them regardless, and I would suggest low lights if anything first like. That would be the first step that I would suggest, and that is kind of what I told her is suggesting Lola first, if she would ever want to go any darker than she is now. I would try to talk somebody out of being super blonde and going really dark unless they are one of those people that it always changes their hair. It has been like black and like bleached blonde, and everything like that. So if you have any questions, please feel free to leave them down below in the comment section, because I know some of this can be really confusing. I tried to cover as much as I could so I hope this helped and, like I said, ask any questions that you have and don't forget to subscribe for more videos and if you have any requests, please feel free to ask and I will be happy to Do those, I hope you guys have an awesome day and I hope to see in the next video bye guys