Satin Weave || Regular Warp And Weft Satin (Sateen) || Originstudio

Introduction:

Satin is the third basic weave of the woven fabrics. In basic construction, the satin weave is similar to the twill weave but generally uses from five to as many as twelve harnesses, producing a five to twelve-shaft construction. It differs in appearance from the twill weave because the diagonal of the satin weave is not visible; it is purposely interrupted in order to contribute to the flat, smooth, lustrous surface desired. There is no visible design on the face of the fabric because the yarns that are to be thrown to the surface are greater in number and finer in count than the yarns that form the reverse of the fabric.

Satin weaves produce a smooth, even and glossy fabric surface. This is due to the interlacing points being covered up by the floats of the neighbouring threads. The smoothness of the fabric surface can be improved by:

High thread density

Smooth yarn with low twist

Filament yarn from man-made fibre.

Each end and each pick makes one, and only one intersection and the intersections are distributed in an orderly manner. Uniformly separated from each other, and nowhere adjacent. Satin is more loose structure fabric, when compare with plain and twill fabrics. Satin is widely used for the foundation of jacquard design.

Classification of satin weave:

One distinguishes between warp and weft satins depending on whether the fabric face shows the warp or the weft. Weft satins are also called sateens. With the most common simple warp satin, each warp end is lowered only on one pick in the repeat while, with the weft satin, it is only raised on one pick. The smallest regular satin weave is the 5 — end satin which can be

represented either by 1/4( 2 )or by 4/1(3) where the figure in the bracket shows the size of the step.

So the warp satin is denoted by the formula number A/1(B), where 'A' indicates the number of

warp floats and 'B' indicates the step value of satin weave. Similarly the weft satin is denoted

by 1/A(B) the formula number where 'A' indicates the number of weft floats and 'B' indicates the step value of satin weave. It is important to note that when the face side of a fabric composed by the warp satin weave then the reverse side of this fabric should be composed by the weft satin weave.

Both warp and weft satins are divided into two groups, such as

Regular warp satin and irregular warp satin Regular weft satin and irregular weft satin.

There is a step value or move number for regular warp or weft satin weave but there is no step value for the irregular warp or weft satin weave. In general 4 — end and 6 — end satin weaves are irregular, because they have no step value. Other 5 — end to 16 — end satins are regular, because they have step values.

Move number or Step value selection for Satin weave:

With the satin weave, the distance between consecutive interlacing points is always the same and is referred to as the step or step values or move numbers of the satin. The weaves are developed with the help of this move or count number. To establish this number certain rules have to be considered. The number must be larger than one and must not be one less than the number of threads in the repeat, as this would create a twill. The number must not be a factor. The move number can be applied by counting warp-ways or weft-ways.

The value of the step indicates by how many picks the interlacing point on the next warp end to the right moves upward. One obtains the value of the step by dividing the repeat number (i.e. the number of ends or picks in the weave repeat) into pairs of numbers. Of the two numbers of a pair, either both or none can be used as a step value. Usable steps must meet the following conditions:

Neither number must be unity.

None of the numbers must be a factor of either the other number or of the repeat number.

The two numbers must not have a common factor.

For example, in case of 8 — end satin, 1 and (8 — 1) or 7 does not accepted as step value. Consider any two numbers but the sum of this two numbers should be equal to 8 and 8 is not divided by this selected number i.e. there is no common factors of 8. So 3 or 5 can be choosing as a step value.

Construction Principle of Satin Weave:

Weft satin (sateen weave):

In this construction, the weft yarn lies on the surface of the fabric as it passes regularly over and under the warp yarns. For instance, a weft yarn may pass over four warp yarns and under one. The floats are consequently made up of the weft yarns, and the luster appears in the weft direction. There are two types of weft satin, such as regular and irregular sateen weaves.