The Modern Shag Haircut | How To Cut Hair To Move Away From The Face
Discover how to layer hair on top of the head using a diamond section to create a sense of movement back and away from the face.
This is an excellent layering technique for the modern shag haircut as the top detaches from the underneath, allowing you to maintain weight and length over the ear.
Tools used for this technique:
Sam Villa Signature Series 7" Dry Cutting Shear https://www.samvilla.com/products/shea... .
Sam Villa Signature Series InvisiBlend Shear https://www.samvilla.com/products/shea...
Sam Villa Signature Series Long Cutting Comb https://www.samvilla.com/products/comb...
Sam Villa Dry Sectioning Clips https://www.samvilla.com/products/acce...
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For more diamond layering techniques check this out https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hrqo6y... .
Thanks for watching and be sure to leave any questions or comments in the box below!
Hi, my friends, Sam B, here I want to talk to you about something, that's very interesting in terms of cutting the top, but really getting detachment from the top in terms of what's going on underneath you're gon na start to see a lot of shags. A lot of degree of assurance on top we're going to make this diamond pattern, move back and away from the face, so it tilts back away from the face. The movement is back and away from the face. What I love about diamonds is the fact that there's two large corners here by simply elevating and over directing away from this position and moving their forward, we're going to be able to maintain weight and length right over the ear. I'M gon na start on the right side, so you can see the diamond center part dividing the diamond in half we're gon na start on the right side, simply take the section and stay in control. We'Re going to go with a section. Look on the top view. Diagonal forward, look at the comb from the top view so diagonal forward. If I placed a marble on this line that marble would simply roll forward towards the face, that's what we mean by diagonal forward, so we'll take our first section now: watch I'm gon na! Do this, I need to control that the clip stays in that section, I'm going to extend for another clip and clip from a top view. You can see that clipping. Just the back part of that diamond gives me control. We let go of that. It'S going to intermix with the link that we're leaving down below we're going to take the top section. This is where we're going to begin we're going to move and over-direct. I'M gon na give you a side profile view of this. So you can see this so when you look at this watch, I'm taking the section diagonal forward. Look at my degree of elevation, it's diagonal and then look at my finger angle. That'S diagonal! So we're creating more degree of shortness underneath extending more length to the top. By moving this in over directing it forward, it's going to fall naturally back in a way so the degree of shortness and where you want to cut that, I would sense that you would base that on the personality. Okay, now, once I cut section it's going to collapse, what I want you to do is take another dry, cutting clip and place this underneath. So what that's going to do is that's going to allow you to go back and pick up this section. If you want to cut some more of that, we're going to do that completely underneath the diamond all the way around. Remember the reason we suction is for control, we're going to come in with our seven-inch dry, cutting shear establishing the angle once we're here. I want a nice soft edge to that, so we're going to come in diagonally with this year and we're just going to chunk that out, keeping it really nice and soft okay and now let that drop over that clip. Now we go back to our next diagonal forward, section diagonal forward, dropping that over the clip and maintaining control with the back section. Here'S the section that's going to be cut here is the guide and we once again move to a stationary guide. Take a look at the guide there: it is there a nice soft edge control that working diagonally in bring that section right back over your clip to maintain control. Our last section last section we're taking to a stationary guide, simply take what we've cut. That is our guide working with the fine teeth of the comb and a dark comb. So we have the contrast, we're able to see the extension of the line that we're cutting we're going to elevate forward notice, how the clone and my fingers work together super glue them together, move forward to that guide when you're at that guide come through diagonal with Your seven-inch dry cutters and release once again over that once it goes down and now we're going to pick up our invisablend, the invisablend is a great cheer for a very light color natural level of color. It'S great for that, because a lot of times in blonde hair, we can see those cutting lines. This is your go-to tool for that problem problem. So it's an over polished edge. Don'T panic! It'S over polished, it's very dull. The sharpest point of the invisible ends are the teeth so that, when we close, the hair is actually being pushed so we're getting a scalp effect within each tooth. That'S why it's great to get really adrià softness, so I'm going to come back through see why I use that clip picking up just exactly the hair that I cut and all I'm gon na do is just punch inside and slide out, so we're gon na punch In that watch, slowly as I close watch how this hair is going to move just slightly as you close this year, we'll push it, you could slight to see it move now. I'M gon na come back through and I slide out now. That'S good ensure ensure that we get a very soft diffused edge within that line that we cut. So basically, you don't see a hard line, but what's so nice about this maintaining length and coming through and getting a sense of movement of that hair, simply moving back and away from the face so getting an extension of length at the point of the diamond in The back: let's go to the opposite side now: Sam. Would you suggest that we do this on natural curly hair? I think it depends upon the type of curl that you're working with. If you have natural movement in the hair, I would recommend that your diamond section is more of a zigzag section. That'S going to ensure you're getting more diffused of the diamond blending in with your lengths opposite side now. Remember we're going to go diagonal forward so that first section is diagonal forward. Look at the top view of the comb taking that slice. So we go diagonal forward, maintain that and give that your clip. It catches that first section and then we're going to come through and we're going to isolate that back, left half of that diamond now we're going to come through and then remember before you cut isolate that with a clip. I'M gon na take one more clip. All the way to the back and isolate that is there a guide. Yes, the guide is coming from that opposite side of the diamond. There is our guide now, let's take a look at this from an offset side. Okay, so now we're gon na come through working with the fine teeth of the comb and, following that guy to that same angle, coming through or their seven-inch dry and now knotch out the length. So you get a more of a diffused edge. Remember you're! Dropping that over that clip coming back through diagonal forward, this is our second section dropping over the clip maintain control with the back of the diamond, coming through picking up our guide and combing to a stationary guide, you can see let that allow the comb to lead. You to that guide once we're there. We come through and notch into that, our last section, discipline and control, even though we are detaching the top from the underneath dissident discipline and control is very, very critical. Our last section come through pinch above the clip coming back through fine teeth for added tension. Allow the comb and the hand to work together sliding to the position that is being cut now, we're there at that point, come through and again notch into that. Once we've achieved that now, it's time to come back in and pick up our invisablend once again a tool that creates a very soft edge, great tool for wider color, a natural light level, color blondes, the invisablend is your solution to diffuse any layers that you might See coming back through and I'm just going to punch out what it is that we cut taking away what we didn't cut or let's keep it in, come through. Let'S slide through turning my hand back over and just sliding through with our diffuser with our invisablend. Once we're there, let's take the clips out and then, once again we should end up with a very diffused layer that you cannot see from the top of what I'm getting is a sense of movement. Moving back and away from the face on both sides and maintaining the degree of length once again, we thank you for watching Sam via we're all about you behind
Comments
LiveLaughLove: This is the EXACT cut I have been trying to get, but every stylist keeps pulling my hair straight back at a slight angle and I end up with short layers. Your technique and explanation is prefect!
Sarah McKeen: You are so clear and precise in your instructions. I love your enthusiasm. Love your tools. Thank you, Sam! Great Technique.
Breanna Rainbow: These Video's are very inspiring and I love learning new techniques, as an early educator I am in love with the way you describe and conduct each video! my one question for the cuts you are doing with short layers on long hair, how would you recommend connecting the layers into the perimeter? or would you keep the layers disconnected?
Tamara Weber: Sam, I'm not a hairstylist and this video popped up and I watched it. I'm so impressed with your teaching and explaining in layman's terms. Hairstylist you are so lucky you have Sam and YouTube. Sam you ROCK!!!
40bdg: Love this technique! This seems like it would work great for fine, thinner hair. You'd get some layering without making the ends too thin! Thanks!
Heidy Mui: Love how clear his instructions are! Thank you Sam!
KS Huffman: I always get great results in amazing hairstyles when I use your techniques thank you so much Sam
megalopolis2015: This channel just showed up on my feed today. I'm not sure why, but I am very glad of it. I have been cutting my own hair since I was fourteen. I don't do a lot of fancy things with my own hair, but it is nice to know this stuff for subtle shaping, especially when I am helping someone else. It's really cool to see how other types of shears can be used, as well.
buttaflylena48: Mr Villa, I have been inspired and encouraged to try your tips in these videos you so generously share within our industry. You are easy to understand and I'm grateful for the love you have to share, as you are so successful yet a humble man and master hair craftsman. I have the shears you first launched way back. I use Kokoro and Hikari shears, the latter were stolen :( I had an accident that damaged my right hand causing me to lose the use of right hand to cut. Good news is after physical therapy and hard work? I'm ready now to do what I love and do best, CUT hair. My thanks to you and your team family for sharing your knowledge and love for our beloved industry. I'm so thrilled to get behind the chair and let my creativity flow. And when I start building my clientale again. My first shear purchase will be of your shears. I've obviously never used swill shears, so I will buy your's, new changes need the right tools. My humblest thanks for your mastery & sharing yourself to my craft. Much appreciation, so glad I can learn from and with you. Helen.
K W: Hi Sam, question for you - how would you go about cutting someone's hair that is very fine and very thin on the top and have to wear the hair to the side to hide the thinning? Thanks!
Lois Stern: I know this is an old video but I just found it! I love Sam cutting hair and what he achieves. I’ve tried quite a few salons over the years to get blended layers the way he does and the hairdressers have not been able to. My hair always wound up choppy. It’s long now and I’d like to keep the length (with a trim of about 1 - 2 inches) and have my hair layers top to bottom like Sam does, with my whisky bangs. Can anyone recommend a salon in New York City that they know will understand this type of layering? Thank you in advance to anyone that responds. Peace!
Alice Morales-Urteaga: Very nice structured video...Enjoyed the detailed instruction! ✂️♀️
Claudia Friskie: Thank you for being so detailed in explaining. Great video.
Julia Walsh: It's always a pleasure to learn from the master. Easy to understand for a diy-er like me.
Catherine Leafe: Great teacher! Love his techniques!
Sandra Matthews: Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. As a professional hair designer I always enjoy your video's. :}
dandy d: Your video is so awesome and full of knowledge I wish we saw the back of the hair after it finished.Thank you please keep sending these priceless techniques.
Aliden Flores: Amazing ❤. Thank you for the great tips!
Blue Rose: Instructions on point! Such a good teacher!
Miss Daisy: Absolutely stunning video, thanks for sharing!!
Maria Magyari-Mate: Sam thank you so much for the video. You are an inspiration and an amazing educator. The best educator EVER. Nice to see new videos again. Thank you thank you!
Aussie Mum2014: Awesome! Why is it that you can never find someone to cut your hair as good as he can??
fernanda sulla: Hello Sam, I've learned a lot watching your class today.Thank you.
Shari A.: Very beautiful. Great Technique! Thank you for sharing.
genique130: i dont do hair,not even my own but sam villa makes me believe that i can. he is very clear and through with his directions. outcomes are always beautiful. hes the man
CarmelAnn DeRosa: I love this!!! Thank you for sharing this Sam!
Shana Karlsen: hi, I am not a stylist, but I do love your videos, even asked my hairdresser to watch the video on cutting a fringe!! I have had many hairdressers try to cut my bangs where they can be worn in sidesweep as well as straight, but they never come out right. I like to wear my hair in a long shag with face framing layers rather than away from my face. Any advice I can pass along to my stylist? I have highlighted blonde hair. My next appointment will be in a month. I would love it if you could get back to me by then. Thanks again for all the education
Jessica Korzeniewski: you explain things so well:)
JB40: Finally someone with the knowledge to teach the correct cutting techniques using a guide.
Brookdale Great Falls: I would really love for you to do tutorials with all hair types! Curly coarse anything . I go to a school who represents you and all they tell us is what not to do with curly hair not what's good to do... little frustrating because I have natural curly hair.
Lilia Collins: Fascinating teacher phenomenal explanation!
Mary Tresame: Very nice! In my day they were called thinning shears when I did hair professionally.
JIA LINN: This is great! The thing is when your hair is not straight its different--it sticks out!
Trina RayLee: Damn, how does a girl become a volunteer for one of his haircuts? I'd even pay to be a volunteer, to get him to cut my hair.
Rajaa Toubeh: Thank you sam. You are great master I really learned a lot from you.
All About Brianna: I’m in cosmetology and watching your videos make me happy bc I get to learn more from you as well
Joyce Durand: Wish I could have you do my hair Sam. It's fine, flat but I have a lot. Nobody gets it, to take smaller sections or angle like you do.
Jade12568: WHat a great teacher. Not everyone can teach and this man is amazingly good.
nfak is love: hey sam....so helping and inspiring i just love ur videos... i wanna ask how to cut own layers from back side i have long hairs and dont even wanna loose my length as well wanna keep that just cant trust anyone with this wanna do it by myself with ur help
Jeepergirl: thanks for sharing your knowledge with all of us !
alletha reiss: seriously the best educator...thank you sam!
Stella Bella: Wow!! Priceless information..
twominutetips: Great Sam - would love to see some of your wizardry on gray hair. As you know we are a growing Tsunami and very, very, very little time or effort is afforded to this demographic except to perm, cut old style and blue rinse
Cindy Smith: love it !!!! very nice job!!!
Brenda: You are truly amazing, an artist. Thank you
Gina Dore: Great tutorial!! Sir, you are GREAT..
klumbucket: You are an amazing teacher.
T S: You are amazing! I love your videos.
gonnagofar: This man is a wizard!!!
Theresa G.: I'm tired of going to a salon so I'm trying to learn how to cut my own hair. I really want to try this! Does anyone else cut their own hair and have good results? Or would you not recommend it?
Mz Clementine: I haven't been to a salon since I was 27! The hairdresser butchered my hair. I want this man to cut my hair!!!!!
Yandira Torres: Sam, I have thin hair on the top which makes my hair look flat. What kind of hair cut would you recommend to add volume?
Re Gee: I watch him, & then cut my own hair using his techniques. Saves me a LOT of money.
dandy d: Sam please can you make a video for cutting the whole hair in diamond sections in all the hair with the same diamond technique.
C lee: Awesome, thank you!
deejo 2: I'm not a hair stylist but I watch these videos more than a lot of them do. At least more than any of the people who have cut my hair in the last 8 yrs. I don't think any of them have continued any kind of training since they graduated beauty school & we all know you only learn the bare basics there. It NEVER seems to matter how much I explain what I want. They nod & pretend to understand & proceed to cut it the way they want which I believe is probably the ONLY way they know how. I swear they do the same cut for me, my husband & our son - just different lengths. And I'm not talking about one of those quick, walk-in salons. I go to a REAL salon & pay a lot more than what those quickie places charge. But I've come to the conclusion that I might as well go there & pay much less because I'm certainly not getting my $ worth. Maybe if you're over 50 they think it shouldn't matter to you anymore. Yes, I'm truly frustrated. I see guys like this who truly know what they're doing & the info is definitely available. I think a lot of them just don't care to know more. I'd want to be known for being damn good at it but I guess most people are just in a rut so every day is just like the last. Maybe you have to live in NY or LA to get a good haircut. Oh well.
Prisca Nemger: This guy's a genius!
Debra B: I asked my hair stylist to do this diamond on my wavy hair. She did and it looked great. The only problem is that she usually forgets to do it. I remind her, but sometimes too late. I may try to cut it myself...
Spread Your Wings: I enjoy all your videos and must tell you that you are so nice and easy to follow. Thank you for the great videos however, I know this question will be off topic but can you tell me what hair color is on the mannequin head you're using, I really like it?
Spread Your Wings: I enjoy all your videos and must tell you that you are so nice and easy to follow. Thank you for the great videos however, I know this question will be off topic but can you tell me what hair color is on the mannequin head you're using, I really like it?
Adewunmi Okunubi: thanks for sharing, your videos as really help me so far
Alicia Calonico: Hello Sam Do you think I can do this technique myself on my own hair?
Sallyjo Woods: Thank u for giving us such great education.after 40 years iam still learning.yes thanks again
Jo: Hi Sam, just found your videos, totally amazing, wondering if you could help with this request please, I do not like going to the hairdresser, just not happy with whole experience ....... I’m in UK ...........so I try to cut my own hair, which being one length was not too difficult, as I have long grey hair With fringe and I would like to get some layer and movement in it and frame my face, could you possibly do a video of how I could do this myself at home, I have seen lots on YouTube, but would be more confident if you were my tutor, big ask I know, but keeping fingers X you can help, big ask I know! ............ Best wishes to you......... Jo
Willow Johnson: Fabulous cut!
Michael Williams: whats best haircut for natural curly ( mostly wavy) hair,medium lenth,needing bangs to cover forehead & very thin areas on each side above temples? PLEASE HELP. had pretty much same style for 25 yrs. #i miss the 80s. SO GLAD TO HAVE FOUND SAM!
Michele Kurlan: your invisaline shears would be great on gray hair for sure. i can see every nuance,esp any mistakes on my own hair,which,regretfully,i screwed up. gonna be a weird growout. Usually i am correcting a professional cut..guess its time to get back in the chair. lol
Debbie Bouzane: wish I knew a hairdresser that could cut my hair that way
Findme Atglen: I wish I could find a hair dresser as good as Sam..... : (
gym princess: Love this!
Olivia Dupagan: Thank you for your vedio I'm ofw (Working house helper ) here in Singapore but I always have passion cutting hair
PedanticSkeptic: mine was a disaster I told my hair dresser to do this and I was left with a very bad haircut that I still suffer with
Monica Bracho: Eres lo MAXIMO!!!!!
Sandra Nodine: I love this shag cut. going to show this video to my hair dresser. my hair is veryyyy thick would this work for me?
PATTY LUNA: I just subscribed to your amazing blog you are the best!!
KUMAR JAY: Thanks Sam I love your every video
Cheryl'sCorner: wish I could have seen the finished product. I want to get a shagy cut. I wore one in the 70's, and there was only one fellow in my area that cut it correctly. I was young then and could afford his prices on a regular basis. Others that cut, to maintain it...still didn't do a good job. I would like to take a picture or video to my now hairdresser for an example. Could you direct me to something of yours that is good enough for her to follow. I now have just below the shoulder length in the back and chin length in the front. I am NOT wanting much length taken, just want the softened look that you described. I do hope you read this comment, and can help me out. I am a desperate 60yrs old woman, and need professional help with this. Thanks, Cheryl
cl ward: wish I could find someone in Tampa Florida, who knows how to cut hair like this.
Teresa Yantone: Whoa, just discovered Sam and I am so excited!!!
JaneDoe: Sam I have very fine hair a little below my shoulders and I have so much trouble holding a style like curls and volume. its not heavy enough to weigh down any style. no one has been able to give me a haircut that works for my hair I need ur help please. thank you.
Andrews2490: I wish he showed the hair cut from beginning to end.
Angela Mohs: Worth flying to Vegas for a hair cut!
Shivani Singh: can u suggest the hair cut for the different shapes of face
Monica Sanson: Fantastic!!
Marsha Moore-Torres: Hello, and how is everyone today. My question to you Sam is:; how do I cut the top of my hair for a shag to go back, like
Jsmum: What is the difference with the modern shag and the 70's shag?
Mama T's world: Very nice!
Patricia Sanchez: I have long thick hair ... do you have a video doing the shag but keeping length, length is very important..
Luarah rodrigues: ❤
ChattyKathy: I wish you were closer to me --- I have the hair from hell . What is this style called so I can ask for it the next time I get my hair cut ? MY hair is thick - white & has a mind of it's own. It's always falling in my face. PS -- thank you for your videos !
Fanny's LoA: Now the questions is: How on earth do I do this to myself? I'm allergic to the chemicals in a salon
Marcy Miller: One brilliant man.
Gibbers King: My only disappointment with this and all the tutorials is that the hair is pretty much straight and dried straight. Yes, I know. That's the style that has been and continues to be so prevalent. I live in a HUMID climate, plus I just don't want to put product after product in my hair and use the blow dryer and then the iron and then the spray and then the...! I like (love!) my waves and curls and long to have a fantastic shag haircut, created with these modern techniques, for wavy or curly hair. Or hair that has those unwelcome thin areas above each eyebrow, and so forth. Show some challenging conditions and how to build in fullness or how to dry to bring out the wave and lift without having to touch a curling iron except for a couple touches for perfection. Enough with the "Aniston" look and all the Hollywood ladies with their blow dried, flat ironed, sprayed and glued-down hair. Show something different, for goodness' sake.
Carmen Dawn Allan: Fabulous. Txs for, Sharing your Talent . ♡
Natalia LoPresto: Love you Sam. But you already know that. We all love you!
Agata1885: Hi Sam Do you also style or do you train only? I would love you to style my hair:) can I book an appointment ? thanks Agata
Zita Schuessler: Ya well this is awesome, but how do you find a stylist that can do this???
Patti Melt: Did I hear that right? Longer on top due to diagonal forward finger angle? I’m wondering if he also means finger angle is parallel to the parting.
Denisse Espinoza: Oh sweet baby Jesús, this video was so pleasant to watch and I don't even know how I ended up here
Nikhil Kumar: realy amazing thank you sir f