Long Hair | Curtain Bang Tutorial | Layers | Face Framing | How To

Hey everyone welcome to my channel i'm summer today. I am going to be doing a haircut on my lovely mannequin here it's going to be similar to my shorter layer tutorial. However, with the hair being much longer, it's going to have a little bit different. Look to it and i will also be doing more of almost a curtain - bang heavy face frame in the front. So let's get started. Okay, so now that i've got her sprayed down and ready to cut, i like to go ahead and separate my front sections from the back, basically from your ear forward, just to clip it up out of the way, so everything stays nice and organized uh. I'M not cutting her perimeter, i'm just gon na slowly be doing her layers and face framing. So we can really focus on that in this video and then one thing i wan na first start out with with your client. What you would do in your consultation with them is figure out where they want to see that shortest layer she's got quite a bit of length. So when my clients say they want to see some movement and layers, i kind of talk to them about what their everyday routine is and whatnot, but i usually typically don't like to do on longer. Hair such as this a layer really past, like the top of the shoulder here. It still gives enough bend to the hair and then, after you get it styled, you can always go back and cut a little bit more on that top layer. If your client wants to see a little higher, but usually the shoulder is where i kind of like to make my guide within reason, if we're leaving a lot of length on the hair, so you'll still get plenty of movement and i'm going to do it yeah. Just right at the top here, so how i go about doing my sectioning for the layers. I'Ve got all this hair here in the back. So what i basically do is just come down right in the middle like right outside the center of the head. I would say - and i'm gon na push this hair forward and then i'm gon na take my part. Take my other section right along the outside of that on the other side and then push that hair forward. If you're comfortable, you can just leave it resting on their shoulders, you can also clip it out of the way. If you want, i just push it forward resting on their shoulders and then to take our first guide, i like to kind of go back and forth with both the fine teeth of my comb and the wide just so we're getting nice even tension everywhere. So i'm going to pull that straight out that bottom perimeter has fallen now and then we're just simply going to cut, and then i like to flip my comb. So this fine teeth here is pulling a little bit more tension here. Bring that up find your guide. I see my shortest piece here: cut. Moving up the head go up with it. I see my guide cut. Come all the way up, so i first start out doing it like sort of a little bit more than a long layer, that's traditional and then what i'll do i'll? Let that fall and see where this top layer is falling, so she's still a little past the shoulders. So what i like to do, i just bring it all the way back up. This is what i do with my shorter layer, haircuts too typically, and i'm just going to angle my hands ever so slightly so you're getting a little bit more curve and you're cutting into that short layer, but you're not losing the weight here and thickness. That'S falling a lot better, okay! So now that we've done like my first little layer here, you can recheck again where your top layer is so you can either keep adding it see it's a little bit longer than where i'm trying to be some people will cut the top piece. First, that's not how it was taught, i'm just more comfortable doing this way, but if you do like to go ahead and make your guide first with, where you want to see that short pieces, you can simply just bring it down, you can simply just bring it Down right here, take your scissors kind of line it up where you want it to go and then angle down with it, so that creates a little bit of a guide there. So now that we've done that, i'm going to bring my hair back up. I see this piece here and i'm just gon na rotate my hand out and cut in this middle and then you're just going to kind of go back down to blend in and then we're going to take our next section. And then you can either keep this piece here or you can separate it down a little bit more. I just kind of work my way over as i go so again. I, like the finer tooth down here to give a little bit more tension. Pull out, see my guide here cut. You can angle your hands a little bit as you get up closer into that top layer, because you want to add a little bit shorter pieces here, but you're not trying to cut all of that weight at the bottom. That'S my personal preference! So as you kind of get basically in the middle area of the head right above the occipital bone, you want to start angling your hands and take our next section, just gliding down with our comb and then now, because this is so thick, i am going to Cut this in half and push that hair forward, okay and then we're gon na continue moving along this side of the head. Taking our next section and again, you want to keep your sections within reason, small enough that you can easily seed your guide. What happens if you're doing too big of sections you aren't visibly able to see as well, and you end up either over cutting or not cutting enough, and it just makes it for more work when you're done when you're cross-checking see i'm twisting my hands ever so Slightly now that i'm in that middle to top section, okay, so now that we have our first side done, we're just going to repeat all those same steps on the other side again coming back sort of to this middle section. And then, if you need to respray your client's hair as it dries, i like to make sure the hair has a decent amount of dampness to it. You don't want it soaking wet, but i feel like it just makes for the cut to stay cleaner. So i'm going to come back just off of the center here of the head: push this hair forward and then i'm going to just add to that middle section. With now this hair, that's on the right side of the head and again you can put this hair forward. If need be, so this haircut is a great haircut for a client who has very long hair. Maybe they want to take some of the weight out of their hair, so they get a little bit more body on volume. They want to see a lot of movement and texture um if somebody is really low maintenance with their hair like they don't want to have to fuss with it a lot or let's say they have like stick straight hair and they never blow dry it. You might not want to do quite as many layers. My long layer tutorial would probably be a good one for you to watch. If you have a client who is really low, maintenance doesn't want to have to do much to their hair, but they want to see some layers still, that is an ideal cut, but when you're doing a little bit more layering, i always feel like any client who Says that they don't like to blow dry their hair, i don't like to put a ton of layers in their hair, just because i feel like, if you're not going to take the time to style it. It doesn't look right again coming out seeing that guide and again we're twisting a little now that we're in that occipital bone to the top part. So now that we have her back layers cut, what i like to do is go in and do a little bit of cross checking with it wet okay. So to do my first cross checking i like to come along just right in the top layer area. I'M just gon na go through with my comb and then i just comb everything up and then see here. It'S a little shorter. That'S longer, i'm just going to make that meet and we're going to let that fall back down sizzling, just exactly where i want it to, and then i just kind of go through i'm not quite as precise with my cross-checking as far as the sections go, i Should say just because you already have the bolt cut, but then i like to just kind of go through really quickly bring it up to that top layer and just check and we'll nip at any hairs. That might be sticking out that look like they're falling out of line or placement do that along this whole back section before moving on to her sides. Now again, you can wait to do all your cross checking until the very end. If you want. This is just how i do it. I don't do it like this every single time um, but for beginning, i feel like you, can never cross check too much. So if you feel like this would work for you go ahead and try it. It'S not gon na. Do you any harm in your haircut by double checking everything clients appreciate stylists, who really value their work and make sure they're doing a good job, see all that there snip it okay. So now we have our back layers are in there, you'll see them more when they're dry we're going to go ahead and blend in our sides. Now so what i like to do, if you again need to respray your sections, go right ahead and then i'm just going to bring this all down again, i'm not cutting her perimeter, so i'm not really matching that up, okay, so to blend in her side layers. I am going to be doing quite a severe face, framing and sort of curtain bang. So i'm not really worried about cutting too many layers right now, because that's going to be created with the face framing, but i do still like to just kind of pull the sides everything going back to just sort of start a layer. So this is what i do in my long layer tutorial with the sides. I bring everything up and back and i let the hair literally fall and then i just go up with it and then again, i'm just going to take the next section. I like to pull with my tension that finer side of the comb bring it up and back twisting and just cut up at an angle. Now one might say, like this part, isn't even kind of needed because we're just gon na go in and face frame anyways, but it's just how i've always done it. You don't have to do it if you don't want to do it because, like you are going to be cutting all those face framing layers, but i feel like it gets out some of the hair anyways. So it's just what i do and then we're gon na repeat the same on the other side. Okay, so now we're gon na move on to the fun part, the face framing and slight curtain bang. So anytime i do face framing. I do this in my other videos, i like to then re-section off from the ear in the ear area and i'm gon na just clip all this hair back and out of the way okay. So before you're gon na do your face framing with your client, like i said, i'm gon na be doing somewhat of a curtain bank, so it's going to be fairly short. Obviously, if your client doesn't want a curtain, bang don't do a curtain, bang or if they want to be able to pull their hair back still. You would want to start the face framing at a much lower point that they can still get that back, whether it be like in a top bun or a low pony, really kind of figure that out in your consultation. But this is gon na, be much more of a heavier face frame. What i'm doing today? Okay, so for her curtain, bang, i'm gon na kind of be making. It fall right in line with her lip area here, because the length is still long. I don't want to go really any shorter than that personally and curtain bangs are meant to be kind of away from the face and a little longer looking. So what i like to do, then. I have my two little guides here and i'm gon na take this middle like right in the middle of these two. If that makes sense, and then i'm just gon na twist them together, so it kind of creates the guide a little bit better for both sides. So i like to twist them decently well and loosen up on them just a little bit. I'M gon na just come in right, essentially at the bottom of her lip, and then that creates a good guide for me. So the reason why i took my guides here for the curtain - bang - i placed them where they're just coming right to the outer corner of the eye, so she's going to have a nice swoop that she'll be easily able to flip out with the styling. So what i'm going to do is grab this piece here and i'm just gon na come in angle. My scissors and we're gon na just go straight down with it, and i'm going to do the same on this side come in and angle straight down, and what i'll do is i'll come back in and lightly just blend in this little bit a little bit better To here and cut anything that needs to be cut extra to make that angle flow. Okay, another thing you can do is just come in and pull it straight down as well, and you can see a little bit better. Okay, so now that we have that i'm gon na spray down a little bit more, this hair is drying so fast, and then i'm gon na take my next section to keep this angle going. So i'm just gon na bring a little bit out at a time. So, while her curtain bang here is a little bit on the shorter side, i am going to bring this more so kind of down and straight down rather than out okay. So now we're just going to blend this in i've taken my next section here, i'm going to pull it down, get my angle with my hands going see this guide here angle, my scissors and just sliver straight down with it i'm going to be pulling in our Last section bring it all the way down and then i'm going to pull the hair from the back, i'm going to bring it forward to make sure it's flowing with the front so just bring it straight down. I can see here where my last little cut is okay and now we're going to repeat the same on the side and then i'll show you guys how i do my cross checking for my front pieces. Okay. So now that we have completed the face framing on this one side, we're gon na just follow it up by finishing it out, on the other, doing the same steps just taking little sections at a time, so we're gon na come in again taking a little section At a time, so we're gon na come down at an angle. I see my guide forming here, so i'm gon na angle, my hands as well and just come down with it going all the way down. Adding in our next section, come down. Try to see where your shorter pieces are in here and then meet up and glide down bringing in our next section you're gon na come down. It is hard to see sometimes where the framing is happening, but just try your best to find it. This way, i like the smaller sectioning and then we're going to bring out the hair here from the back and just pull it forward and match up a little bit there. If you're somebody who is a little bit more comfortable and you want to go in in just one swoop with the hair, you literally would do it kind of similar you're, just not taking as many sections and you're just going to come up. So i see my pieces here and you're just gon na get your scissors in there find your guide and just sliver all the way down. It'S really just all about your comfortability level, like what you feel like is best for you, there's nothing wrong with taking sections. There'S also nothing wrong with doing it in one big swoop, if you're comfortable, with doing it. Okay, so now that we have the bulk of the face framing done, what i like to do to cross check all my face framing, especially when it's heavier like this. What i'll do is i kind of just start from her ear area so go back to that ear. Sectioning, i'm just going to kind of take a section within that section and then we're going to bring all the hair towards the face. Curving and then cut curving and cut, and then we're going to take our next piece. Moving towards the front of the face. Going forward with it angling, your hands, cut angling forward cut, and then i also like to take it get your same section that you started with we're gon na go i like to do it with the fine tooth of my comb. We'Re gon na go up and over slide it all the way and just cut any little hairs that are lightly sticking out here. Next piece pull all the way up, get it nice and tight and all the way over cut, and then we're going to do the same cross. Checking on the other side take our first section come forward and twist ever so, slightly cut pulling forward while twisting and then we're going to once again bring the hair up and over to do. Our last final cross check go up and over so now what you would do i like to stand in front of my client and i'll check their face framing, but we're gon na get her dry and then do any point cutting or blending. We might need to do. I am big on dry cutting if you've watched any of my videos. I love point cutting texturizing if your client's a fan of it all that good stuff. Okay. So now that i have her styled and blown out, i'm loving the bangs um. What i'm gon na do is just go in and cross check point cut blend anything that needs blending in. I think i am gon na lightly texturize, the bang area. I feel like it's just a little too thick looking um and just blend everything in dry cutting is so important. I'M really really big on dry cutting. I say that in all my cutting tutorials, but so i'm just going to go through and show you guys how i check for all of that and blend in anything that needs it okay. So what i'll do is i'll just again cut, i'm not even going to separate the back from the front, but you can see back here. Her hair is dark, so it's a little harder to see, but she's got some good movement and layers. I just feel like this: top region is a little heavy and i want to just lightly bring that up a little bit more. I'M just going to come in and it's really more so this top region and i'm just going to point cut into that and even out these little layers from the front that are coming into the back. And i like to just kind of deep point cut into it now, if your client likes a much more textured, look, you can use your thinning shears, it kind of just all depends on the hair type and what your client likes and doesn't like all that hair. That'S coming kind of from my back face framing that's why i'm not like super super concerned at first, not that i want it to not line up, but because you're cross-checking, that's important. Why you should cross check is to just blend everything in then. I always still remember to kind of angle my hands with the cross checking just because we are kind of doing a slightly shorter layer for the lengths and again i'm at this very front piece. I'M just going to kind of bring this up towards me and curve. It then we're going to come through and do the other side. It'S actually laid really nicely. Sometimes i feel like mannequin hair doesn't always want to cooperate, or even sometimes people's hair, but this laid really well and just twisting a little bit now that we're at that front area we're going to kind of go forward more and then what i'm going to do Is come across her top sort of right around her ear like as, if i'm parting again, but we're not sectioning it off, and i'm just going to bring this up one more time with that wall there. It is i'm going to bring this back up one more time, i'm going to do that along this whole top hairline. So right here in this middle, i want to just barely bring that up a little bit more, i'm not loving where it's laying okay. So one way to check the back to make sure it really flows. You can easily see how the layers are, but what i like to do is just stand behind them and i'll sort of just pull everything back into the center. Make sure your client's looking like straight ahead, but you can see this well, it's laying really nice. I'M loving the movement. I would love to have this haircut on my own here. I just don't have enough hair okay. So now i'm gon na double check her face framing and, like i said earlier, i am gon na lightly texturize these curtain bangs here, because i feel like they're, just a little bulky for my liking. Again. If your client doesn't want you to texturize stuff, you simply don't have to it's all personal preference, but i'm going to show you guys so that way, those of you who do you know how i do it so to do that, i am going to use my Thinning shears, so i'm literally just going to take these corner pieces and just very lightly at the ends. Do it they just looked a little blunty. I am loving the way that this is looking okay, so to check your face framing, we did do a lot of cross cutting before drying, so that helps a lot, but you'd either want to stand directly in front of your client or behind them. Looking into the mirror to double check all the points, it's very easy to get frustrated when doing a face. Framing it's easy to like beat ourselves up on it. So if you don't get it perfect, your first cut - or i mean even sometimes now - i don't don't - beat yourself up - it's tedious work and just make sure to not be too hard on yourself as long as you're doing a good finish. That'S all that matters. So i'm just gon na check her a little bit one more time so stand in front of your client and just kind of bring the pieces down, and i mean she's actually looking pretty good, i'm happy with it. I love curtain bang and face framing, but if you want to just double check, obviously, if you're seeing pieces that are totally like, let's say this piece should be as short as this, you can easily blend that in you can do the same type of cross checking. We did when it was wet by bringing it forward and angling it up and cutting anywhere that you see that needs cutting, and then you would just continue to cross check. This is really one of my favorite kind of haircuts to do and to see styled. I did blow dry this very similar to how i did my short layer, i'll plug the video in the description below um. If you guys want to check that out, but i think we're actually good, i didn't even really have to do any full-blown texturizing. If your client likes a lot of like extra texture, go ahead and use your thinning shears to really kind of piece this out more, but if they like it just soft to blend in then just do some nice deep point cutting, but i'm really happy with how It turned out alright, so this is our final look. We'Ve got a lot of movement throughout the hair, with the layers looking great all the way, through with our shortest layer being right around that shoulder area along the face. We'Ve got some fun face framing with a little bit of a curtain. Bang. I love it. If your client wants more or less layers or less face, framing just adjust, how much you are cutting or not cutting nice sections are key to keeping your guide again. This is a great cut for anyone who is looking for more movement and a little extra fullness to their hair. I hope you guys enjoyed the video go ahead and leave a comment below please like share and subscribe. Give me a follow on instagram and i will see you guys next time.