Graduated Bob Haircut | Vidal Sassoon | Horizontal And Vertical Graduation |
- Posted on 09 June, 2019
- Bob Hairstyles
- By Anonymous
I think the majority of hairdressers are comfortable with vertical graduation because it is a technique that is well practiced in NVQs and training academy’s.
Horizontal graduation on the other hand is something that isn’t really touched upon in most peoples training and something that I quite often show people and they have never seen horizontal graduation especially in the context of a bob, so in this video we are really going to look at both techniques and how they work to create different effects and where to best utilise them.
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CUTTING TOOLS
Favourite Scissors
Cutting Comb
all around Comb
Sectioning Clips For Long Hair
Sectioning Clips For Short hair
Cutting Collar
Neck Brush
Detangling Brush
HOT TOOLS
Hairdryer
Best Hot Tool For Clients
Straighteners
Tongs
Wand
COLOURING TOOLS
Detangling Brush
Pintail Comb
Tail Comb
Sectioning Clips For Long Hair
Sectioning Clips For Short hair
Tint Brushes Wide
Tint Brushes Narrow
Balayage Brushes
Foil
And this foil https://amzn.to/312uk4j
Balayage Board
Cheaper But Just As Good Balayage Board
Slim Balayage Board
Balayage Board With Teeth
FAVOURITE TONERS
Best To Neutralise Yellow
Best To Neutralise Yellow Orange
Best To Neutralise Orange
My Favourite Brown EVER
What I Mix Them With
And if I want make any of toners a lighter colour I used this
STYLING TOOLS
Paddle Brush
Dressing Out Comb
Defuser
Small Round Brush
Medium Round Brush
Brittle Round Brush
Straightening brush
Sectioning Clips For Long Hair
Sectioning Clips For Short hair
Dressing Out Brush
Detangling Brush
Mannequin Heads I Use Sometimes
DISCLAIMERS:
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Welcome to the life of hair, my name is James Atkinson and in this episode, we're going to look at graduation, not just one type of graduation but two types of graduation, horizontal, graduation and vertical graduation. Horizontal graduation is a technique that not many people use to create. Specially graduated Bob's I've done a horizontal graduated video before but more focusing on short horizontal graduation horizontal graduation tends to build up more weight to give you a slightly heavier shape, whereas vertical graduation creates that flatter lost sleek graduated profile you're going to see in the video How we get on and how it does dramatically change dependent on our finger angle. Vertical graduation is best used on thick hair types, whereas horizontal graduation is better used on fine, lighter hair, textures I'll explain more as the video goes on. If you enjoy this, video, though share it with your friends, subscribe to the channel, hit the thumbs up button. Most of all leave me a comment because I love to chat to you guys in the comments I'm always always always around to speak. To there's a few of you now that I regularly speak to with different bits of advice, and I love it. So thank you for you guys that keep in touch all the time and I'll see you again in another episode of the life of hair horizontal graduation. First, on this left hand, side first section is pulled straight up from the head and we cut a square line. The second section is also a horizontal section hold straight back and we pull this section down onto the first section and we just attach - and the third section pull it down into the previous section and we're cutting a square line under very little tension. The elevation was 45 degrees. Here we have a vertical graduation so that you can see the difference. We'Re cutting at a 45 degree angle into the nape and we're pulling each section straight back from the head shape. This will create / direction and mean that we are getting more weight built up towards the back of the ear. I gained very little tension on the hair back to the horizontal side and we simply followed the technique through. We are sectioned off from the crown area through to the front recession, and then we have taken a one centimetre section and we are pulling everything down onto the previous section that we just cut with little to no tension on the hair. But making sure the hair is elevated to a 45 degree angle from the head shape and we are following the hair around the head. This is to avoid any over direction of graduation in the sides. Should you want that, then you would pull all the hair back, who cut one square line. This is the heavy horizontal graduation aside complete and we're going to move on to the third score. Graduation we're going to take exactly the same sections as we did on the other side, but we're going to use a vertical finger angle and cut the hair at 45 degrees to match what we did underneath again. We'Re pulling the hair straight back from the head shape and we are following the hair around the head with no / direction. This means that we will go from graduation to one length through the sides always make sure the hair is a natural fall. This will give you a more seamless graduated shape and avoid using too much tension. This is the finished look. This is the right hand side using the vertical graduation. You will note it's a slightly flatter shape, not quite as round as the heavy graduation using the horizontal think angle. On the left hand side there, I've cut the right hand side with a different outline just to emphasize the difference in the shapes, and then I've cut. The left hand side the very clean classic vidal sassoon disc outline. Thank you for watching that video. I hope you got something from it: horizontal graduation, a great technique for finer, hair, textures or if you want to create extremely round heavy shapes and that vertical graduation. Well, as you saw from this technique, giving you that beautiful classic Vidal Sassoon s silhouette, I've been James Atkinson. This is the life of hair. I'Ll, see you again very soon for another episode.
Comments
Face Up: Super cool to see each technique next to each other. I find that when I’m doing a vertical graduation through the back I’m always a bit perplexed deciding which line to follow as I go to the side. I see you just change over to horizontal sectioning for the whole side area. Would you put in slight layers afterward on clients that want a layered bob? (Is that a stupid question? Don’t mean to sound so idiotic, I’m just trying to incorporate your cutting styles into what I do). Great vids!!! Loving what your doing!
Daniel D.: Amazing explanation! Do you think you could do a long layer haircut with a side part? I find I always end up doing last minute adjustments to my symmetrical cut so that the layers look even.
John Do: Thank you, James, for showing us your art and experience! Anyone who wants to improve their skill as a hairstylist, there are only three hairdressers you ever need to watch on YouTube are James Atkinson, Sanja Carica Karasman and Maksim Nikitochkin.
Eva Baker: After 20 years in the industry I have just learnt horizontal graduation ♀️!!! Thank you James...I have binged all your videos and signed up on Patreon. I have already used so many of your techniques in the salon - points of light, express balayage, the Firefly cut and now all my ladies are getting horizontal graduation bobs next week ha ha. You’ve inspired, reenergised and revived my craft THANKYOU SO MUCH.
Patrick Knipt: Great work James!!! Love your videos! Does the horizontal graduation give a different result compared to the vertical graduation? In theory both versions should give the same result or not? With horizontal graduation the shape is created by elevation, where as with vertical graduation the cutting line is the dominant factor in creating the shape.
I should be sleeping: We are SO undereducated in THE CLASSICS of hair design in the States. America needs YOU. A FRESH, well spoken, adorable Brit to bring us to the next level. Boho works for yet another season or two but I feel like close fitting precision haircuts ( even worn textured by curls or movement ) are incoming, and I WANT to be READY
Ziv Benigoyev [zivgames]: many times i cut my first section in the nape too short which makes the whole haircut shorter than i imagined . how do you avoid that? thank you for your content :) <3
Ac Haley: Tremendous artist and wonderful teacher, thanks James ❤️
Moazzama Karim: Gra8 explanation for a graduated Bob using both techniques as always you are a superb hairdresser loved it❤️. Thanks James.
Jacqui Byrne: I do look forward to your videos, great to help me remember! Brings it all back to front of my brain!! So thanks.
Heather G: Perfect video and instruction...looking forward to all the future videos requested!
José Rustveld: Amazing haircut It reminds me the dancers that were in Sticky & Sweet Madonna Concert. That was the Vogue act. Thanks James
Leonid Rusinov: Thank Youtube, that i found this channel. Your video really motivate me to up my own skill. I am recently join to Tony and Guy as assistant(but i'm fan of Sassoon), and i hope approach the world class hairdresser in the future(but now my hairdresser skill=my english skill).
Mariana Learn Hair Love Hair: Which graduation (Bob) would you teach first to a beginner?
K Goh: Horizontal graduation is a techinque use in vintage haircuts and im a great fan of vintage haircuts .... thank u for sharing james hugs from singapore
Odalys Ruiz: Beautiful! Thank you ✨
Marsha Cunha: Great cut. Just started watching your videos. When you cut you hold your scissors differently with your thumb can you show how your holding it . Thank you
josenia david: Thank you for the additional knowledge everytime.
Lesley Morley: Just sorting through ball your videos ,can’t say it enuff , brilliant informative stuff love it
Hina Malik: Very useful information about hair thanks a lot ❤
Adrienne Boullianne: finally catching up on your wonderful videos...was busy celebrating my birthday month...
Hayco Lindeboom: Wish i had your channel while in beauty school.. What brand of shears do you prefer for barbering/club cutting?
Lewnidas Orfanos: Really nice video thank you
Katieva Valerio: Thank you!
Jussaina Oliveira: Amazing. Cheers.
JJ Email: Your elevation at the nape is 90 degrees. Your are in fact mixing elevations.
Arpan Khati: Hello sir i want to take a adavnce course from Vidal Sassoon how much is admission fee