Layered Bob Haircut Tutorial & Bob Hairstyles For Women

We are here in New Orleans doing a razor shag demo, and this is probably the hottest haircut right now and it's really broken through between our broken through the lines of sort of fashion and consumer, and so now we have more and more people wanting this particular Look and so I'm going to show you how I like to create it with the razor but I'll, also kind of go through a little bit of how to use a scissor. If you guys aren't comfortable with a razor at home step, one is going to be the sectioning. So if you notice the sectioning here, I've got one horseshoe section here, and I've got two sort of side sections and then one back section. I'M gon na tackle the top and then I'll tackle the sides, and then I'll do the back, and the reason why I do this is because I want to control the level of disconnection or not. So if I want more disconnection having these isolated helps me push through and not take the back, and it works both ways as well. So if I don't want to have disconnection, it also helps me keep in mind that the back of this section needs to remain long in this particular instance. We'Re going to kind of do something in the middle, so my hope is that we have a little bit of a Joan Jett kind of fun vibe at the end of this cut. Once I finish this, this is pretty much the foundation for my haircut, so this is where all the layers are going to end up at this length. I'M going to over direct everything to that point and I'm going to elevate slightly to get that to meet my guide. So I'm not gon na hold down. I'M actually gon na pick up a little bit and you'll notice that my sections are going to be horizontal. Going across that horseshoe section, it's almost it's almost more of a square shoe, but you get the point just kind of taking the hair away above the parietal, which I like to call the interior of the hair and isolating that first yeah yeah. So for those who've just signed on, I am doing a razor shag and I will be also using the scissors and showing you how to execute with a scissor as well. Just by a show of, if you guys can give me a thumbs up or a wave on Facebook, how many you guys like to use a razor at home some thumbs up, awesome cool. So just so you know this is an unguarded razer im using feather plie blades. This is actually a prototype for a new elevate, hair razor very similar to the feather plie. It is unguarded. I typically cut unguarded. I know that gives a lot of people anxiety, I'll kind of go through in a little bit how I use the razor without a guard and keep myself safe and my client safe, because that's really important when you're using this tool, I mean you can ask any Barber, it's sharp and you have to kind of go through some steps and some learn some habits so that you're not putting yourself in danger and especially your client. So I'm gon na walk through the mechanics. Then I'll show you kind of some of the details right. So step one clean section step: two fine teeth of the comb comb goes right into the hair, and this is like the number one thing I see that is problematic for hairdressers and gives them trouble is how they comb. Everyone thinks that the scissors and the razor like what define the haircut, it's actually the comb if you're thinking about a scissor or even a razor right at this point, when the razor comes in contact or the scissor comes in contact with the hair everything's done and For a scissor, it really only does one thing it just closes right, so how the hair gets to that point of contact is actually the most critical thing, and the reason why I like a nice comb with fine and white teeth is because it gives me optimal Control - and it gives me consistency - you know I'm starting it's 9:00 a.m. here today for some of you guys who are catching this later after the live. It might be midnight. My tension on my hands varies throughout the day, depending on how tired I am, how fit how much caffeine I've had all that kind of varies, and so I don't want to rely on my hands too much to dictate the tension. I want to let the comb do that, because, no matter what as this comb is always the same so having a consistent comb and how I go into the hair is really important right. So this is what I see that's a problem. I think for a lot of people they come in and they push down. There'S this scooping scooping kind of mechanic and when you do that, what ends up happening is you end up pushing hair back down into the previous section, and so you can never get the appropriate elevation, because your comb is always pushing things down. It really exposes itself when you're doing graduation or layers, because you end up with like heavy you DEP or like a heavy weight line in the back, and it can be problematic. So how you comb is really important. Using the whitey and the nice thing about these wires Park, combs that we have on elevate, as you can see, there's like a little bit of a little tooth there and that helps me go through the hair, a little easy of easier for sectioning. Okay, once I have that, I use the white eve just to kind of manipulate the hair around. Let some air get in there and then I'm right back with the fine teeth of the comb and I'm it's confusing it from a when you're looking at it looks like I'm pulling the hair the whole way through. I'M not the comb has all the tension. I'M following with my fingers and then at the end I grab with the scissor here's my guy to be cutting here with the razor actually pull past. My guide, I cut on top of my hands and you can see that guide kind of pop in there. That'S what I'm looking for, so you need to have enough hair where you're cutting something it's not individual hairs. But you have it's sparse enough where you can see what's happening underneath and if you've been paying attention, you might have noticed the type of texture. That'S coming out on my ends right, so when I first started, I was using a more of a closed mechanic, and so the hair looked a little bit more together. Now that I'm moving into the interior, the head you're gon na see my razor move a little bit more vigorously and you're gon na see the texture sort of mirror that, and what you have here in your hands is a mirror image of what you have left On the hair, so when you're doing a razor cut at home - and you want to see what you've left quick way to do, that is just look at. What'S in your hand, before you toss it, and you kind of have idea, I'm gon na keep this up throughout the interior. The haircut I'm gon na try do a shaggy, shaggy layer, but keep in mind. You know we're doing this for Facebook live. So I'm trying to do something a little bit more. I don't want to say avant-garde, but a little bit more fun for everyone. This technique applies, if I'm doing a long layer too, so I could be holding this very low and cutting with very little elevation and a close razor. So I'd be moving my razor more like this, and that would give me a more blunt edge. A thicker look and would not layer it as much for this particular mechanic. It'S the same idea that I just bring it up. I just bring it up and that's gon na increase my elevation and give me more layers more texture and when I finish this next section here, I'm going to actually take a horizontal and show you guys what this looks like going from short to long next section. I'M a right at the apex of the head, you know and on a mannequin. The hair is not as dense as a real person's hair at this point, so keep that in mind your sections might need to be a little bit finer. You know we are trying to practice social distancing, so I have my wife actually on the on the phone now who's handling the camera we've been in isolation together and then I have my friend Stephanie who's. Reading all your messages to me and Mary Catherine who's working on our Instagram live so we're trying to keep six feet and because of that I have a mannequin and not a model, because I think at this point I think it's just. We all have to be kind of careful and we all have to be doing the right things. I think it's important to treat this moment with a lot of caution and I find that the more cautious I am and the more things that I feel like I'm in control of the less stress I have and yeah great question. I'M actually slightly elevating it at this point here. So if you see here, this is essentially the apex of the head. At this point, I maybe we're gon na layer even more, which is just water, with a little bit of the restless refresh in there for fragrance. To be honest, so at this point what I'm gon na do is I'm going to lower her head a little bit and that's gon na increase the elevation so I'll just go ahead since we've got in here. Imma show you what this looks like right now. So we take this on a sort of as a cross-check right you can see. The hair is get going from short to long and then here's this piece that I haven't cut yet so at this point here, because I've lowered it that peak. That angle, which looks like this is gon na kind of flatten out a little bit. I'M gon na flatten it I'm gon na flatten the curve right now. You know I want to take this opportunity as well as I finished this haircut. This is essentially the same technique. I'Ve been using right, I'm using my razor consistently open. It'S important to move the razor before you come in contact with the hair. If I come in contact with the hair and then move the razor, I'm gon na create a little notch a little hole. I don't want to do that so when I kind of think about this almost like trimmers right and so it's just constantly moving and I'm gon na push through the hair. Another way to think about this, if you're curious about my mechanics, you can see how I'm holding the razor right. My thumb goes here on the side and I hold like this. These three fingers are really important for moving my comb around and I want you to notice the difference, because I have this finger. Locked back look how much distance is between the comb and in her head and the razor right when I go grab the comb with this index finger. Look how much closer it is to the client and that's what I was talking about earlier right. I want to keep this thing away, so this finger is locked, so if you guys are sitting home bored, you've got one of these kind of barber. Razors hold hold it with your index. Finger like such and use this these three fingers to manipulate your you're cold. Sorry, your comb and you just kinda wan na spin it around and that works on your dexterity and muscle memory. What you don't want to do is grab your comb like this, and you can just see how much looser it is. This is dangerous right. This is how what keeps me safe and my clients safe. Is this thing so the first thing you're doing when you're practicing the razor is to learn this technique? Next thing, you might think about is how I'm gon na move the razor right. So I like to think about it, like I'm signing my autograph, so here's my name Tatum Neil there's, my autograph. I hope no one can kind of hurt my checks now with that motion. That'S what my name basically looks like right. I want to pretend my name is MW MW. No, I don't know how to pronounce that so just bear with me, but the reason why I say it's in W is because that is how I want to sign my autograph now right up down up down up down up down. Then, when I go into the hair, I get a consistent movement across, and that gives me consistent. Texture cool thing about the razor is there's a lot of variables that you're working with. I treat this as a precision tool, but I'm doing two things at once: I'm putting length in and I'm also putting texture in the same time, because with the scissor you have two blades collapsing right now go this. Is it right here? Don'T demo that right, you guys two blades collapses, the scissor. That line is gon na, be very blunt, whereas this line is gon na, be very diffused so kind of important to think about, and it's interesting because how the razor impacts the hair on the very little microscopic level varies. Based on how I come in contact with the hair, do I come in contact with the hair, more blunt like on the edge right? Do I come in contact with the hair more on the flat of the blade right? So then watch this look, how much texture! I can create by doing that right, so how I press into the hair the angle, the flatness. All that dictates the feel of the hair, and I don't mean esoterically the feel I mean like what it actually feels like. If you were here, and you ran your hands through this hair, you would notice that it feels significantly denser than it does. Then it's still healthy right. This is a brand new razor I'd use neutral in a shampoo and conditioner. Her hair is nice and hydrated. There'S a decent amount of slip on the hair. So when I go through it's not damaging the cuticle, but it's it's it's kind of peeling and minimizing the edge of the hair. It'S like an immediate break-in, so some things that I like to look out for because I think about how that razor goes across the hair is creating balance and symmetry. How I come in contact with the hair right. So if I come in this way and I'm cutting in this angle, then I actually need to mirror that same angle on this side and cut this way, so I'm not cutting across this way. I find a center point. I cut this way, so the razor is pointing this direction. Then I cut this way and the razors point in that direction, and that gives me consistency on the end of the hair shaft, and that will give me consistent in this bed. We make it elevate. Hair makes it it's a prototype it should. We should have it very soon. I'M trying to do all the tools I have here are honor elevate Pro Shop from the blow dryers that comb. So you can see the comb here is a nice graffiti branded comb and it's all in our shop, elevate, hair, calm and we'll be open, we're distributing. So if you guys want to try this any of the combs. These clips, which are amazing. These gold clips are on fire right now. Everyone loves them, go to shop, elevate, hair, calm and I'm literally in process with the manufacturer of these blades we're just kind of going over the placement of the the branding. I should have those in the next couple months. So stay tuned and sign up for an email list if you're, if you're not already so that you can see updates on all our tools. We have these awesome capes. We got a new curly, so lots of fun tools are all curated by me they're. What I think are the best tools and I try to make them super affordable for you, guys, yeah, oh yeah, Ronnie, what's up yay, all my friends, getting it close? What'S up you guys here, staying safe out there duh exactly. I figured all gold everything I'm a 2 Chainz fan. Why not? Can I mention two chains? It'S going to tighten this up. Yeah. Okay. Last few sections are kind of running out of hair here. So I'm not you know. Everything essentially is coming to this guy down. Here which I've been moving up right, so if I were to hell, if I wanted this to be thicker, I would have held this down here. All this hair here essentially would not have met, but I wanted to have more of a shiny feel, so I'm gon na pick it up notice, I'm using the back of the blade here and that's just for a client safety and protection right. So if I'm moving this way, I don't want to use the front of the blade, because then the back of the blade is closer to my clients face. So if I'm going this way, I'm using the back of the blade that means just right to left, I'm going left to right and I'm using the front of the blade again, that's just for client safety. I find that my clients don't usually even notice that I'm using the razor and that's because I'm I'm not like damaging the hair. You know the hair is wet. The razor is brand-new. I change out the blade every single haircut right, so they notice things when it hurts, or it sounds like something right so having a fresh, clean blade having damp hair. That'S consistent is gon na keep your hair from getting damaged, and I like to say this all the time, because there's a lot of stigma around the razor and razors do not razors do not damage hair, hair, dressers, damaged hair, so keep your blades fresh one per Client and keep your keep the hair to him last little section and I'm gon na essentially assess what we have and then go into the sides cool yeah. So we have kind of like it looks to be like a mop top right now, but I'm gon na push this around and you can see these are my. These are the players that we have on top. I think this is this profile is actually nice illustration of the short to long nature of the haircut right short to long right, I'll pick up a vertical, so you can see what that looks like as well right and Boo, so this technique can be done on A vertical you don't have to do it horizontal, but it's so much easier. That'S one of the things I like about razor cutting, it's all for cutting right. So everything goes to your Center, so I don't have to pick up my shoulders a lot. I get way less fatigue and my shoulders and my arms by utilizing these techniques and even in these top areas, I find it's just easier to have your client or mannequin in the situation dip her head down a little bit than it is for me to try To lift up so you'll see me if you and if you watch me, cut hair in the salon, you'll notice. A lot of my movements look a little different because I'm focused on my body position and keep in mind body healthy coz. I want to be in this for the long run, so now that we've got this, I want to connect in the side, so you can see. We'Ve got these side panels here. I'Ve got a lot of hair up here. So the first thing I'm going to do is actually take some of this hair and just clip it away. So it's not getting in the way what I'm trying to do and confusing me yeah. So, let's just talk about hair types and suitability right so on thin, hair, fine hair. Sometimes the razor can be nice because it does it can it can't cause a little bit of a swelling at the cuticle, depending on the texture of the hair, which can make it appear a little fuller and the nice thing about it is too is. I can remove, I can remove some weight without having to over layer their hair, so I can give someone a more blunt look that has a little bit of a beveled silhouette and it gives them actually look a look of fullness at the bottom, so you can Use a razor on on fine hair, I like to think about it pretty simply, and that is what does the razor do. A razor removes weight and creates texture right, so it's weakening the hair. Essentially, if I'm in a situation where I've got my I've got my college girl coming in and she gets her cut once a year after her mom yells letter, probably and she's in she hasn't had a haircut in a year right and she always gets her hair. Colored, so there's there's a bit of damage on the bottom right, so the bottoms of that hair. If someone who hasn't had a haircut in a year, they're gon na be pretty fine and fragile in that particular situation, even though maybe the density at her current at the roots would allow for a razor, the area that I'm cutting, because we can't cut any less Right that area is fine and fragile right, so I want to strengthen that area um with the tool. I don't want to diminish strength there, so I would probably use a scissor in that situation. But if I was going in to shag - and this is all essentially brand-new hair - the ends are super healthy. Then I can create a little bit more space and a bit more movement. So that's when I would go in with the razor as far as curls you can cut curly hair with the razor it's again a function of what is their density? What are the ends? Look like, and what's the overall outcome, I'm trying to achieve right. So if you have someone who's, a very curly like a coily for for ABC a razor might not necessarily be appropriate, because that type of hair has a lot of texture already, and it typically is a little bit more fragile right. It'S a little! It'S a little bit more delicate hair in that level, so, going with the razor may not be appropriate to three yeah. I could probably go with the razor I might just want to be more on edge, so, instead of coming on the hair flat with the razor I'm gon na want to come over the hair on it edge, so the ends of the hair a little bit more Blunt and that's really the only two things, but actually a razor on wavy hair can be quite nice because it can create a little bit more space, a little bit more openness and more texture which I really enjoy. So what I'm doing here is I'm assessing this space here to here now notice, there's a nice hole right here right, so I'm gon na imagine that this is gon na continue through, unlike real people. The mannequins are quite dense here. This little pivot point. What'S nice, it's got a little ear right, so this is actually the thickest part of the whole hair, not normal, on a real person. So again, I'm imagining this line here and I'm gon na start and I'm using the back of the blade to come down, because this is a shag, I'm not gon na I'm gon na cut all this length off. It would be very easy to kind of continue down and move and keep length. Another reason why I like the razor it's very easy to go from short to long in a long layer type situation, but for today we're doing a shag, so we're just gon na go for it not worried about her complaining. So I'm just gon na do what I want to do and try to do something fun for you guys at home next section now, I'm connecting the dots right. So here's my line again thickest part of the hair on the mannequin is right here at this hairline. So I'm gon na take a very shallow section. Mannequin hair really does eat at your scissors and your razors so making sure your sections aren't too thick important, but also in a client. You don't be chewing at the hair. That'S what I like to refer to it. You want to be getting through just nicely so filled in that space here now, I'm just simply connecting the dots use, the tension of my comb to apply tension. I grab at the very end. I slide down. There'S my guide using the back of the razor and it's just connected up boom and you can see now we're starting to get the look of the layer on the face room. Next section. I'Ve kind of passed that thick area around the hairline, where it's punched in and will just kind of look and see. If that's a thick enough section, it's almost a little too thin. I'M just gon na go for it almost a little too thin. If it's too thin you're cutting individuals, individual hairs, you're, not getting enough texture into the hair, you're, not correct you're, not maximizing the effect of the tool. Essentially, let me just check this again, a little bit thicker a little bit thicker again this this kind of illustrates how this varies from client to client. It'S another thing I like about the razor is like every head of hair is different. How each little hair strand responds the razor is different, so you're kind of learning inside each haircut. You know you have a plan, you have an idea, you have a strategy but like all strategies, they kind of fall apart as soon as spoon as soon as you start and the key is to Reese traged eyes and adapt, and on that note, on adaption, I Want to talk about that a little bit, because I feel like right now we're in a time where we need to think about how we are going to adapt as an industry and as as a people as a as a global community. I'M gon na reference. This guy, Charles Darwin, it's me guys - may have heard of him before write the book on evolution. If you will, but you know what he said, and I think this is so important: it's not the strongest or the smartest species that survives. It'S the one. That'S most adaptable to change. I think that's really that's really important to think about like how do we adapt to these times and right now I know, there's a lot of unknowns out there, but we have to be ready to change and I think that everyone tuning in today is making the First right step: you know, if you're at home, how are you making yourself better? How are you gon na take this moment to make yourself a better hairdresser, and you know and elevate, are committed to to creating content for you guys, so we're gon na be doing a lot more of these lives starting next week, I'll be back on here, Tuesday. I'M gon na try to get my friend Renee who's the North American. I want to said Queen Alyssa said North American, Queen a North American director of texture for Veda she's gon na do some some braids and some looks for you guys, also Matthew, Kazarian who's gon na do some stuff we're starting a new elevate Academy. So he's gon na highlight some of our new stuff going on with that, so I'm just committed to creating some fun content, for you guys doing some education and keeping you guys saying this to me reminds me a lot of a hurricane for those for who are Abroad, viewing here in New Orleans, we have to be prepared for hurricanes all the time, and you know I think it's best to be prepared for the worst and hope for the best. But you know as a family as neil corporation we've been dealing with disasters and just stuff like this forever. I was talking to my brother garrison yesterday about this thing and and what i should share with you guys, and he reminded me of this moment during Katrina. So Katrina happened. It was obviously a disaster, but it only happened for the Gulf Coast and at the time we were distributing to North Carolina and Georgia and they were finding they need a product, but Louisiana obviously was in disarray. Well, we have the force at that point. We had the foresight to always get a generator to keep our business up and running, but we didn't have one for our distribution center and we didn't have power for like I don't that, like. I feel like three weeks. Two weeks or something like that and our distribution facility, so we needed a generator and guess what there are none to be had in Louisiana. It'S my brother garrison and I got in his pickup truck and we drove in the middle of the night to Houston Texas and picked up a big generator and put it on the hitch. I'M not a I don't the guys did it on the hitch. I don't know how that stuff works, they put it on the hitch and we drove this thing from used to him back to back to him and back to New Orleans in the middle of the night, so that we could service our clients. And I think that really, in a nutshell, sums up our commitment to you, the hairdresser into our hair community and we've been doing this for a long time. So we're going to continue to make decisions that are on the bed. Interests of you and we're gon na. Do everything in our power to keep you guys functioning and doing what you love, which is hair, so I just wanted to kind of give a little PSA from our family say that we, we love you and we're thinking about you and we're doing everything we can To make this process go as smoothly as possible and to be ready for those who are kind of not working right now, we're gon na be ready to go as soon as we get the okay and the green light. We'Re ready to start right back in business, and I just want to say we're we're here for you so hit us up via hit me up, be a DM. If you guys want to talk about anything, any questions about hair or life or whatever we're available and like I said, I'm redoing a lot more of these lives for you. So you're gon na be able to see some cool techniques and the cool haircuts, and we can stay connected. I kind of love that we're in 2020 and we can be together even though we're keeping our six feet. Okay, so some things were happening. While I was going on my little PSA, one is always trying to check for balance, so I'm using this side of the haircut to check for balance, but a key balance indicator is actually in the fringe. So, by by this fringe being balanced, I can, with confidence, start on this side boom this side boom, and I know that I'm balanced, but I'm also just kind of visually referencing it keeping my this section down relatively low. So I'm not elevating a lot here. I'M trying to cut it the hair where it lives, so I can make sure the line is going to be accurate when I'm done it's gon na be what I think it is. This is also the perimeter of the haircut. This is the foundation, so I don't want to elevate too much and I don't want to be too aggressive with my razoring, I'm not on the flat of the blade, I'm more on the edge last little section here. Moving my raids are getting move. Your razor first cut air before you cut hair, fine teeth of the comb, and you can see here these fingers, I'm bracing my hands or I don't want to be all over the place so sometimes I'll. Do that a client with their shoulder, possibly her face. So I'm this fingers, these two fingers are holding and this finger here is bracing. A little subtle thing that you might notice is my finger position here. This middle finger is behind this one, so I can see my guide if I do the opposite. It'Ll be hard to do. If I do it like this, I'm hiding my guide, there's no quick, little tip pro tip. I don't even notice, I'm doing it, but this middle finger is higher than that, and that allows me to see my guide okay cool. So now that I've got the front done that little hair there that I'm just gon na assess what I've got know what it looks like I'm gon na knock it around a little bit. I want it to have kind of a fun texture. Are you getting comments? Questions yeah. Yes, sure it's not Monday, that's a great question and it really happens in your sectioning. So bye-bye sectioning. Can you come over here by sectioning the front and the separate from the back and having that balance? I know that that is essentially where the front of the haircut is. If I don't want it to be a mullet, then these pieces stay long. If I do want it to be a mullet than these pieces, they go short, and so that's how I sort of do it. Is I isolate the areas of importance in a long layer situation. I might have a section that goes back all the way through this way, and I know this is my length and so I'm always kind of trying to create or save my perimeter in that situation also elevation. I mentioned that even in this situation, where it is a little bit shorter, I'm not up here I'm down here. I want to kind of keep that as low as possible. I actually have a mannequin head, so here we go. Here'S kind of an idea how I like to think about the hair right, so this whole section here this is like my perimeter. So, generally speaking, when I'm doing anything here, this front section here is zero elevation right, because this is where the outline of the haircut heat is here. This is what I call the middle interior right, it's not even on the side. You see it. Here'S my perimeter, this middle interior, then I can bury my elevation. I can move that up a few degrees if I want to create layers and then here the upper interior, that's really where I can have a lot of elevation right. So I can have maximum elevation here in this in this region. A little elevation but less here and then no elevation in this this section here so a lot of times what I'm sectioning you'll see me section you'll see a section coming across on a diagonal just like this. Like this whole, this whole area below my hands and that's where I know, have zero elevation. So, no matter what I'm doing this is staying down and then I just have to navigate well. Do I keep a corner or not? I knew about this side for a reason. Okay, so now I kind of got like a look like. I feel like pretty happy about this. It'S neat, I'm gon na definitely go through and do the fringe again, and I have a finished model here now. I want to I want to tackle the back so I'll. Just take these clips off and release all right, so she's got a lot of hair, so I don't - and this is the fun part about it right. So I can. I can leave this hair and it can be super super long or I can connect it in and make it short. I'M gon na do a little bit of you know. Actually my finished mannequin is short, so I'm going to leave this one really long, so I'm gon na actually try to keep all as much length as possible for you guys, so I won't get full so now at the back up here I have my guide from The haircut before so I'm gon na take a section horizontal section, just like I did before, and that encapsulates make sure I get it right at the apex of the head important to catch the apex of the head, if you're below the crown or where that head Rounds away - and you start your guide - there you'll end up with a heavy shelf, so you want to make sure you catch the apex and again I'm just isolating here that I don't need. I'M not gon na cut this hair. Let me get it out of the way these close to sort of protect me from getting into areas. I don't need to be quarantine in that area. I'M gon na keep making karna jokes has apologized boom. It gets so now it's nice sectioned off way and quarantined. If you will now I'm going to look at the back step, one dampen the hair hair, I don't need to be dripping, but I want it to be consistently damp with my razor come straight down and I'm gon na hold this straight out. So you guys, who are filming check this out, make sure we're good for y'all again my section this hair here, I don't need it clipping it out of my way, I don't out of my cutting range so that I don't catch something I don't need to. Okay and I'm gon na just hold straight out and see who we have here so here's, my guy, you can see it it's up here boom. I actually feel like it's a little long for this look right. So what did I do here? Can you see? Okay, back of the blade and I'm just gon na cut away using a little bit of the flat of the blade to give this maximum texture again in this crown area on a real person, it's typically quite thick, and so I can be more liberal. If you will more aggressive with my razor - and I just peel that away still kind of in the crown area, if you will so not in this kind of danger zone here, so I could still be more aggressive back of the blade just kind of erase it Away, I think about it like erasing now that I'm in here I'm gon na stop I'm gon na kind of progressively over direct towards the interior. Alright, so I want to wrap this around. I want to continue to ever increasing over direction. I believe is the term. I heard my friend Gerard scarpe, see from hairbrained use ever increasing our direction and that'll make sure that I keep my perimeter okay. Now I'm gon na move back over to this section here, yeah doing vertical sections here we can see that over here, I'm looking in there. Can you see that just vertical? So what I've done here right now is I take. I took the area that I already cut. I'M gon na clip that away - and I have essentially my guide here in this middle section right. So here's my guide up here. I take a section just off-center, because my centers already cut pick up the hair and then you can see my guide here. It is right here. Can I see that there? It is Boop right there and I'm just kind of coming towards me and Ronnie for length. You know this is where you can just kind of drop out. If you want to keep length on your truck, let the parameter drop out of your hands. I like the feather plie. I like the blade to come in little blue box. That'S my favorite razor up into this point and we'll be having this would come out really soon. The blades that they use are just really sharp. So when I was sourcing razors, I wanted to make sure that we could use that blade because it's the best now, but it again it's only the best for one haircut and after one haircut, then it's not it's it. It gets done really quickly. So you got to change your blade, oh and look at all that fun texture. So now what do I do? Is I've got this again a mannequin head, so it's not the best hair type right. If I look here down here, this hair here is just kind of like yeah yeah, so I'm just gon na cut that out, I'm actually gon na use the scissor at this point use my holiday cheer love these guys. These guys are amazing and they're uh they're handmade in Japan. It'S not just Japanese steel, it's actually handmade in Japan, so I'm gon na do a point. Cutting technique right. All this was done with razor. So to do blunt would be a disservice to all the work that I just did so just kind of point cut in here. I want to keep it soft and loose not trying to do anything block some point cutting, but there is a line. There is a there is a there's, a strategy here, it's not random. It'S a straight across line. It'S just slightly diffused all right and notice. My point cutting a lot of people. Point cut at the angle like this. I try to get it as perpendicular as possible. So I'm almost cutting like a little individual here is one at a time it's more tedious, but the results are better now. What I want to do is assess it and see how the whole loop we're having a bit of a Cape shortage and all of our salons here having to go through them. So much so. My people at the Pro Shop asked me that make sure that people know that we've got tons of capes if you guys need capes per home after the salon and I'll be showing you. There are white cape which my favorite for long hair cutting in a second. So now, I'm kind of just literally just shaking it out and assessing what we got here. It'S a kind of a fun cool Shack. I'M not gon na do a full blow-dry because I think that's boring. What I'm gon na do is show you what kind of products I'm using again already started with Newt replenish. I am obsessed with this stuff, but I'm gon na use a little bit of this leave-in conditioner. Typically with my shag, clients they're not blow drying their hair. They really want it to be. Just like I rolled out a bed look, so I love this nooks replenish stuff because it gives them a little bit of moisture which helps with smoothness. Next, I'm actually gon na use the volumizing tonic. Now you can use football Ian. You can use thickening tonic, you can use, can fixer, I think about a mousse churan hold moisture hold and that's like where those two meet is the optimal space for each pie right, so she has thicker hair. I might use a heavier products for the moisturizer ahead of your whole job Joe. She has finer hair, I might use a lighter moisturizing product and a lighter, it's very dependent on the person. Volumize atomic is might fun my personal favorite to spin around forever. I just love it, so I'm gon na use this as my folding agent, and you can see all these kind of fun curls come out right. Next thing I want to do is I want to take. I like using my like elevate tail comb and I like to just kind of lightly position, the hair, how I think it should look - and I can use this to kind of separate their hair without getting in there with the teeth. So I like a little child coming the situation and then of course, just just my grabbers classic defuse just for a second I'm not gon na, be on this for two seconds and then I'm gon na go dry style because it's boring. This is really cool for the parlance blow dryers. It is a silencer silencer, no silencer silencer, no silencer, so I hope that my clients are watching you're. My client and I put on the silencer. That means I want to talk to you. There'S no silencer, never mind. I'M just gon na kind of diffuse this. I don't want to disrupt it. If you want and then once you've powered ride, it chop, elevate, hair, calm, but look at Molly works on Karl explode. Ours, and then here is that white cape. I talked to you guys about now. What I'm going to do is I'm gon na do a little bit of thermal styling. So it's one barrel guy, so this thing comes get it. It'S got one digital base and then two barrels. So when I'm traveling, I only have to bring it's like having one blow one curling iron. So it's you. I have two convenience, so you get two two looks depending on the hair type will dictate what kind of tool you should use in this particular situation. I'M gon na use a small bare curling iron and I can't I have two options here. What I'm thinking about it? I can use the thermal protector or I can use air control nine times out of ten, I like to use the air control. I just love the brush ability of it, but in this particular situation, I'm going to use the thermal protector on the ends to make sure they're nice and dissolve sometimes when you do Messier blow out like I just demonstrated the ends can look a little like they Didn'T get enough attention so I'll go in with that and then I'll go in section by section and how to use this. So first thing I'm going to do is section off the crown and start on the top. Sorry start on the side. So take my air control. You can do a couple to couple different ways approaching this. You can use the clamp and do a wrap notice, I'm leaving the ends out checking for temperature just to give it a little bend or there's a little longer, and you feel like it look better for you. You can take the hair and you can just wrap it around the barrel, like so notice that I did two different. I did it opposite right. So what I just did is I created a little space here and that's what gives it that beachy look. So next section I'm going to take here, it's a really important that you guys take the same thickness of section each time. My friend Alan Ruiz taught me that long time ago - and this section I'm actually gon na - do a way. I'M gon na use the clamp in this particular area and I'm going to do is I'm testing for heat, so I want to make sure the heat has come all the way through the hair. So if I can put my hand on there, that means it's not quite hot enough and then I'll just release. Now, if you notice this really, this was a little too tight in my opinion. So what I'll do is I'll just actually go through and pull it and that'll loosen the curl, so you'll see me do that throughout a service or on the mannequin or client, where I'm doing the curl and then I'm pulling it accordingly. All that varies from person to person so, depending on their hair density, you may or may not have to to pull most people. I find that it works on a pole and in this particular situation I found that I, like the smaller barrel. Let'S try the big barrel just to see what it looks like and see if you feel like there's any difference in the way. I continue to go away from the head back and I'm leaving the ends out. Alright, that's gon na give it that sort of beachy. Look just lightly touching I mean we can see. So it's a little bit of a softer curl similar but different, and obviously those are two different things. So now I have to decide what do I like better? Do I like smaller one or the bigger one, I'm gon na actually do some of the bigger on the bottom and then I'll do some small ones I'm talking Evan. Am I losing people in this how's it going yay keep doing this back and it's got these nice little heat resistant plastic things here, so I can grab and stabilize without burning my hand, which is nice, pretty much lost all the feeling in my fingertips. Thank You. Hairdressing, but there's still some there so not burning yourself is always a plus. I get on just touching to feel and make sure that it's hot enough before or at least and then I'll do a little bit of a pull nice and again see how the hair. That'S out and straight how it looks nice, that's kind of look just back section here and then I'm gon na move on to the other side, one last little bit again treating each piece of hair and the same alright. So everyone gets the same amount of hairspray. They didn't say amount of thickness and section consistency with your product application and your sections and how hot you get. The hair is going to create consistency in your style, so I'm not gon na. Let this go until I feel the heat from the bear. I'Ll push. All the way through then I release, and then I give it a little bit of a pull and you can see how it drops it drops it down. Okay, let's continue on the top on this side, I was really actually liking the larger barrel in this area. So I continue on with that same section every time. Oh it's a little too dense. Resection that you know calm we did sort of. We did toward mean away from the face, so this one in the back, I'm gon na do tore it. So changing the direction of the curl every so often is gon na give you a less contrived more that beachy. Look, that's so-and-so right now! So again everything was sort of towards going away from the face this one particular curl, I'm pushing towards feeling the hair. It'S not quite warm enough now that I feel my skin is on fire. I'M gon na pull away there we go and again I'm gon na pull down hold down there, any cooks out there watching somehow you know what I'm talking about guys, I'm feeling it make sure all of his hair is nice and kneaded together, I'm starting to lose The length here this is the top of my jag, so I'm gon na go back to my smaller barrel right after this section, one more time or pass now. This is just very. This is very visual, so there's technique in here and what I'm doing, but I'm deciding based on my I what I like separate that out a little bit cool now, I'm gon na go back to my smaller barrel of these sections, and this is really just all Feeling and what I think should it should look like one of the reasons why I like to diffuse and to leave some natural texture in the hair. It'S because I can play off of those bins. This hair was power, dried and so it's a little straighter than I typically like to work with that's kind of why I like to sort of leave the hair damp spinning this around and one more little section here, I'm losing left, it's very visual. You can like pull the hair, it's ball, it's still hot and adjust what you've done a little bit of curl here, sort of shake out. Let'S see what we got, I'm gon na drag this down a little lower. Actually so I'm thinking about where I want the curl to be and where her eyes are, and so I'm putting the curl on the bend a little bit lower same thing with this section. Where are her eyes? How can I accent those hair spray soup grab that, like this, just to get a little bit of a bit one more piece up here, guys and then we'll we'll wrap it up come back Tuesday. We'Re gon na do some more fun stuff, I'm doing a social media presentation for our Veda art students, Tuesday afternoon and then 3 p.m. Central Time I'll be back there doing something, probably doing a haircut again, a different one or style, and it should be fun. So keep paying attention to at meal checkout elevate, hair as well for updates on classes, elevate, hair Academy, and this is gon na - be gon na make the best of our time together. So if you guys have any suggestions, you want to see a particular type of haircut or a style. Let me know is that what you want to see? I got Alberto a director of hair color for Neil he's planning some cool stuff for you guys and I'm also working with my friend Savannah, who runs elevate, color we're gon na. Do some fun color as well, so a lot of cool stuff. But hey look! I'M here for you, you tell me what you want I'll come in here, I'll, even shave heads in here, whatever you guys want just let us know last section this is a critical section because it's at the top, so what I want to make sure is that This is nice and smooth before I go on with the iron, and sometimes what I'll do if I feel like it's a little fuzzy or coarse again in New Orleans, it's humid think that happen check this out. I actually take the curling iron and I'll press it on top, almost like I'm using a flat iron, see I kind of come across the head like that, and that kind of lays any type of fuzz down. Take a bend right here. Don'T okay! After that, I would use a little bit of air control. I'M just nice, I'm gon na go through actually and texturize a little bit. These are dry cutting shears obsessed with these. I thought: try cutting shears your BS they're, not, and I'm just gon na use the slate pink, come and use the white teeth to brace that and I'm just kind of going in texturizing this a little bit more. I browser a thing maybe and let's try to highlight those, but usually when I'm looking for a fringe, I'm trying to figure out what's gon na work best for the person's features right, so pro tip. If you guys can't decide, take your hand before you start the service start at the nose and then move it up and this hand is essentially like a French. So I can say how does the French look good here? No, where does it start to look good? That'S still too heavy. Oh, it actually looks nice on her a little higher up, and I do that with every single client. It'S not always the same. Quick visual representation put your hand here, move it up and that'll. Let you know what looks good. It'S kind of dusting these little bits off here. Point point point: this is all done technically before now: I'm just kind of like having fun I'm gon na go underneath the hair, it's so thick on this mannequin or do some deep, deep point: cutting yeah. Why are dry cutting shears? What not the yes? Well! No, I Oh, why they're not be yes um! Let me show you this, because here's a regular pair focus on my shirt come close. So if you see this is my precision, shear, nice and straight notice, these see there's like a little bit of a curvature to them and so that allows the hair it pushes through the hair a little nicer. More gentle doesn't pull and you can't quite see it. But there's a little bit of a curvature to the actual edge of the blade too, so it just glides through the hair, easier, there's a little bit of curvature and the way the blades are. I just know how it feels on the hair, so I like to scissor or comb with these guys. They'Re they're, pretty awesome and all of our scissors are like 350, so they're handmade in Japan, but $ 350 full price. Sometimes they run special as you get them for even less than 300, but that's such an affordable price for a shear, some shears go as much as $ 1,000 or $ 2,000 crazy, stuff, 350 handmade in Japan can't get better and that's for both the precision and The try cutting cool so now we got that done. You know now. What I'm gon na do is just kind of shake out. This side run my hands through it and just let it kind of be so there's my beachy beachy style and then, if she was real, you might take some pictures and I might get so bored over the next week or two. I might just start taking pictures of mannequins. It might come to that cool alright. So here we go. I'Ve got my kind of a good representation. You'Ve got your kind of natural diffuse.