How To Cut A Disconnected Bob Haircut Tutorial - Bob Shape Cut, Short Layered Bob Cut

Welcome everybody, my name is drew schaefering and we are here, live in brooklyn in the studio and we are getting ready to uh work on this disconnected bob shape, and what i'm doing right now is i'm about to cut my first guide cut for the sectioning or For the shape itself, so if you're looking at it, you can tell what we've done is we've sectioned off the top of the head and really focusing on the actual round of the head? So if you look at the top section, it follows with the round curvature along the parietal ridge down through the occipital bone, and what we're doing is we're isolating that this is all going to be longer, so we're working with an undercut and we've isolated everything behind The ears with our crux clips, sectioning, that away and we're working on the front part in front of the ears to start, and this first section what i've done is just taken this vertical section straight up, and this is where using a longer comb, so we're working With the crux tools today and if you haven't had the chance to go to hair brain pro and try out the crux tools in the the shop, they have everything there. So we're isolating we're, bringing everything square as if we were cutting a square layer. And what that's doing is it's going to be collapsing everything below the round of the head that we're working on a vertical section? So if we watch what we just cut, we're collapsing this and we're getting all of this below the round of the head to collapse and hug tight. So we just did our first vertical section and we're going to keep working with parallel vertical sections, no over direction. Just working it until we get to the front hairline so again for those of you joining in welcome, my name is drew schaefering and i am an educator hairstylist artist here based in brooklyn and i'm also the creator of crux brand uh. This is a haircut that we're doing like the haircut that we're doing today is something i actually learned a long time ago, uh several years ago, and it still stays relevant with uh, with today's fashion, with shapes with principles on um, really releasing weight and collapsing, where We need it and leaving length where we need it. So the general idea of what we're doing is we're really collapsing everything, and this is going to hang over, and this is going to be great for anybody who, if your client needs that weight reduction or if they really have kind of that bowl shape. We'Ve been seeing a lot of heavy rounded shapes lately, so this is kind of going anti-head shape, we're really eliminating the excess weight and below the round of the head. It'S very different, cutting a square layer up here than above the round, we're isolating and we're eliminating. All weight here above the round to the head we're going to build weight. So what we're going to do connecting two sides and making them balance is sometimes the hardest thing. So here's a little trick we're going to go to our first section. First, we're going to see if this is short enough and we're gon na take these layers. This is short enough. We'Re good we're cutting inside out through here. So what that means is we're cutting the shape and texture first, the perimeter is gon na, be the last thing that we cut good morning: amy uh, shantae, hello, everybody thanks for coming in and tuning in and saying hello uh. I don't have uh a colleague with me today, so i'll be kind of jumping back and forth answering questions. So if you have a question feel free to shout, but we're going lengthwise we're about four inches on this. So what we can do is we can take measure with our comb. Then we're going to come to the opposite side of the head and we're going to use that same measurement at the same elevation to cut a guide for the opposite side. So we're going to do the exact same thing so again, vertical section below the round of the head. The manny looks all cleaned up. Anna maria this manny's been through uh through the works she actually even after a few shampoos, still smells so my comb's vertical, and what i want to make sure is: i'm just bringing and elevating this hair straight up so from a profile or straight on section. We'Re right here i want to make sure i'm not out here we're bringing it straight up, so we're cutting the top of this section, the shortest towards the top of the head and we're just club blunt cutting all that hair, because it's going to fall at such An aggressive rate and it's going to collapse, it's going to be soft. We don't have to worry about texturizing any of that just yet we're going to get into that. So i'm going to keep working vertical parallel sections traveling guide with me. My long comb helps it allows me to control all of the hair as well as use it as a guide or a measurement for my line and knock all that hair off. So again, for those of you who maybe didn't hear - and i apologize there's a little bit of noise next door, i'm in a studio space here in brooklyn and there's a woodworking shop next door. So sometimes they they kick on the vacuums and the machines over there. So if you don't hear something or you need me to repeat it, don't don't hesitate. Give me a shout all right. So if we take a look at where we're at we see these layers are balanced. This is all going to be collapsed and hugging the head shape again we're cutting shape and texture. First, the perimeter is going to be the last thing that we cut so we're now going to jump to the back of the head shape. So we've cut everything in front of the ears by bringing everything and we're cutting a square line. Everything brought straight up cuts and it gets dropped and collapsed straight up collapse. Now we're going to be taking slight diagonal back sections with the round of the head and we're going to be changing our cutting angle square horizontal up here to rounded the reason for that is we want to get rid of a little bit of this extra weight. This is the densest most bulky part of most haircuts right. I want to leave the heaviness down here. We want to cut it, so we're going to cut rounded with the head shape and get rid of a lot of this bulb. So this is what it looks like we're going to tilt her head forward, we're just going to use the guide from the front as the guide for length. So i'm bringing elevating this straight up. You can see my rounded layer is going to start coming here. We cut redistribute cut and redistribute so we're getting rid of much more bulk and you can see as we comb that down it's going to hug the head shape, so we're going to be taking all this off. It'S going to end up about chin length, hello, india, ireland, wow, you guys are from everywhere. What'S that hi beena hope everyone's doing well, happy hump day the week's going downhill from here and if you're just joining and tuning in uh, we are using all crux tools. Today, so we're working with l'oreal professional styling products and we're using the crux tools that uh gerard and the team have over on the the harebrained pro shop, so hair brain dot pro and they're having such great sales all month long, they have um. I believe the combs and the clips starting on the 8th, i don't know exactly what's on sale right now, but they have black friday sales all month, long so make sure to go over and pick up all your stuff that you need over there. Hello from belgium, sri lanka, france, vietnam, you guys are amazing. Thank you so much for tuning in uh. We are continuing this. This line back so we're to this point. So let's get her up right, so everything in front was cut here now, as we get into the back, we're taking slight diagonal pivoting sections slight diagonal backs, bringing it up and we're cutting a rounded shape so that we collapse more of this weight through here. We'Re going to continue working until we cross the center back yeah, hello, romania, belgium, awesome! Thank you all so much for tuning in and checking it out. Uh as i'm working you'll see my handle and my social media information is just behind me. If i'm not blocking it with my big head as well as crux brand, the company that i have a passion project working for and if you would like the head sheet for this. So if you'd like to get the actual detailed head sheet, um trust me you're. Gon na want it because there's a few little tricky parts that are like important with this and this technique, this haircut can be done. So many different ways been something i continually bring out and to give you reference. I learned this probably seven years ago and it still keeps coming back for me. So if you want the head sheet and all the details go over to my instagram drew schaefering and just send me a direct message and just say head sheet and i'll: send you a picture of it. So we're continuing with a traveling guide, just working that nice round layer and we're gon na go one more section over until we we've already crossed center, so we're just going to make sure that we get all this cut now notice. I have her head tilted forward. So it makes my life easier. I don't want to be having to change my body and contort too much hello from greece from bahrain from serbia yeah. Thank you guys thank all of you for joining. So if you, if we take a look at what's going on, we can see the shape starting to come out it's starting to collapse and sit in. So as we flip and go to the opposite side. This is where there's going to be each one of us has our own personal taste and our own preference with how we cut hair. We can continue working on this side or you can stand in front depending on, if your right hand or left handed some days. It depends on our mood and today i'm not sure if i'm what side i'm going to stand on we'll see, but the key is consistency. So if i'm working here, i know that i have to get my arm up above i'm going to tilt her head away. So it makes it easier for me to pull this section up through here. So i'm bringing my guide that's in front up through here and what i'm going to do is i'm going to stand on the opposite side and here's? Why it's much easier for me to cut from my guide my shortest bit right here and work in a rounded lip, rounded fashion, rounded layer that way, if i bring this section up, i can't tell what's going to be around by starting down here, so i'm going To switch, and now what i have to remember is that my last movement has to be a pushing motion away from me, because this is a traveling guide, we're not working with any over direction or distribution to a stationary guide. So here's my guide from before in the front and we're pushing so that it's staying where it's living in this natural fall no over direction with our distribution. Next section long comb controls the hair. The rubberized crux clip keeps it nice and steady. Elevating this hair straight up. Our guide is right in our fingers. Right there, okay, we're back. I think i had an issue with the connection uh hello from norway. I got a brother and family that lives in norway. They'Re in oslo, i love norway. Where are you marianne um palm springs? California, dolores? I envy you right now here in brooklyn, it's uh starting to get today's sunny, but it's starting to get colder for sure. So last section we're just taking an overlapping and if we're doing everything consistent and balanced on both sides, we should end up equal with our lengths. We shouldn't have much crossover now. The good news is that this haircut is going to be texturized and a lot of weight is going to be removed. Still, we still have to do a lot of work down through the bottom, in addition to taking the the perimeter off how to cut a frizzy and curved hair uh nora, i'm not sure exactly what you mean. Frizzy is a little bit challenging with styling um, but the curve, i'm not sure anachi. How are you it's good to see you what's up timmy mer, oh oslo, i love oslo. Marianne, it's perfect all right, so underside of the sectioning is cut and to give us some ideas, you know the. Why is always more important than uh exactly what we're doing. We are collapsing everything below the round of the head here. This is going to be a very sexy, movable bob shape and we want to collapse everything through here. Then this is going to have kind of an overhang. So what we're going to do next is i'm going gon na pick up a little feather razor, so you can use a straight blade. You can use the uh the razor with the handle, really whatever you like, and what i'm doing is i'm just using this as kind of a pencil instead of having the whole guard or the whole handle it's just as just using it. Just like a pencil drawing it off, i'm making sure the hair is wet. Don'T want a razor on super dry hair right now, so i prepped the hair one of my favorite products, guys uh l'oreal, professional cereal expert 10 in one. This is a great leave-in conditioner for hair, especially when we're using the razor, and we really want to have that slip to the hair, all right, hey from south africa stacy. Thank you so much for joining uh love your support, nice. To see you aisha. All of you, thank you all right, so we have these layers that are starting to come in, and this is all going to be collapsed and we're going to start to take this and razor it away about chin length and we're just going to go flat and With a very open stroke just start to melt all of this hair away. Now, if you wanted, we could do this with scissors on dry hair. I don't recommend doing it with a razor on dry hair, but some people - that's their. You know you're fine with that. Just got to make sure that the clients are coming back in for retouches, because we're going to get those little white crispy bulbs. Yes, anna though the 10 in one is great to use before any haircuts. It'S really really one of my favorite products for sure. So just working combing, the hair in its natural fall we're just starting to work the perimeter a little bit more and the great thing about this is i'm using just because i'm using the blade. I can keep my comb and the blade in one hand, and i'm establishing kind of my visual guide for the perimeter and then i'm just pinching and razoring that with a bit more of an open stroke, all right. So let's do the opposite side and then we'll go on the inside and get some more texture going. Uh lynn, thank you for following hello, emily from belgium. I'Ve never been to belgium. I'D love to go there. So again, if you're just joining. Thank you. My name is drew schaefering and we are working on a collapsed, disconnected undercut for a bob shape and what we've done is we've cut everything below the round of the head to this point in front of the ears with a square horizontal cutting length or line, and Everything behind the ears we cut more rounded so that we eliminated and cut away a lot more of the bulk in the back. So it's all bulk elimination right now so moving the head around. We want to make sure that we get this perimeter, nice and soft and just start to eliminate the length and again this isn't bob. We can have this be cut away, because this isn't the bob shape. We still have that overhang. All of that length on top is going to be what's hanging jennifer. Thank you appreciate you all right so now what we're going to do? This has all been cut now we're gon na go through. So if we take a look at all of this, our cutting line was up here now, it's dropping, so we have all of this excess bulking through here, depending on hair textures. You may want to cut more or less, but for today we're going to go through with diagonal sections and i'm just going to go through and really start to eliminate and piece out some of that weight. So using comb by crux brand hair brain pro's website, going with the tip of the razor and just tipping a lot of that extra weight out and the great part about this cut is it's supposed to be flirty and fun? There'S supposed to be a lot of pieciness to it, so it has a lot more of an energy there's a lot more openness, we're able to kind of get in there be a little bit more free with it. You can see that starting starting to come come together, really really nicely uh hello from greece, uh red. Thank you, uh anna. Can you this technique for any texture hair? Yes, this technique can work for any texture hair. The difference is, i would maybe not use a razor in the same fashion and here's the situation if the hair is curly. What we're dealing with with curly hair is, we always are fighting for space right. Curly hair needs room to to expand, so we are collapsing and eliminating weight from the top of this section underneath the round of the head, and if say they have curly hair. We may adjust the lengths a little bit more or less and we may use the razor we may not, but that's a great question and it can very well work on pretty much anything. So you can see i'm going in and we're not cutting all of the hair. That'S in our hands we're just really tipping a lot of the the weight out the excess bulk, so we're working with diagonal back sections as we do it. The reason for that is, it's a it's like a safety net for one no mark or even, if there's a mistake that we make and we cut too much nothing's going to end up leaving a mark in the hair. It'S all going to be soft on a diagonal. Second reason is diagonals hug, the head shape. Anything that's on a bias is like a rounded line, so it's giving us a softer, more curved effect to the haircut i'm going to keep going in through the back and we're just going to go and soften a lot of this and again, you can use a Straight razor, whatever your preference today, i'm using just the blade part and working it similar to the way a pencil would just kind of a little bit more free and for those of you that can hear there's a little noise in the background. So if you need me to repeat anything feel free and then we have a lovely pooch in here sunday. My colleague levi's dog, is in here. So it's not me, whining, there's a there's a pretty little pup in here all right red. Thank you for that yep. I love working with the razer. Yes, the razer's really really great way to get that softness and and everything that we need with that, so just kind of checking for balance. You know we want it to be related, not twins and when we're working with shapes that are more free, like this. It'S good to check in before we move too far forward just check in with it and see where we're at all right on to the top section, never seen anyone use just the blade. I'M sure you know what candace it does. It feels like you're just kind of drawing you know it's just like a little uh little detailer as opposed to the big length of it. I probably did that because i lost the blade part or the handle at one point and was just left with that. All right so as we work into the top, what i'm going to do is i'm going to split the top through the radial section and when you're working with clients, if you're doing this type of technique, what you can do is adjust the top section to be Bigger or smaller, depending on, if you want more hair in the top or more hair in the bottom, so the bigger the section, the more hair there will be there. So keep that in mind. We need the top section to be big enough to have enough hair to overhang, and you can already kind of see where this is going. So we're going to comb all of this hair down in natural fall and we're going to split the back from the front and we're gon na approach the back first. So again, if you would go uh give me a follow on instagram or facebook. I appreciate your support. My information is on the wall behind me, my hairdresser, if you we haven't, had the chance to meet or converse hairdresser based in brooklyn new york. Do a lot of education, a lot of different uh elements in the in the world, and i started a passion project crux brand, which i'm using the tools here today that you can find in hair brains pro shop at hair brain pro, so we're starting in the Back half of the head: that's right! Courtney, love some classic equipment for sure all right, romania, hello, so we're starting the back half of the head and we're going to be elevating taking horizontal sections, bringing it straight up and we're going to take every section it's backwards. On the wall, oh, it is backwards, isn't it i forgot that it does that well, take a screenshot and type it in backwards or something yeah there. You go things happen right, so we're taking each section and we're elevating it to a stationary guide. So section one's coming here, section two up here. So what that's going to do is it's going to leave excess length falling through the base of the perimeter through here. So we're getting more softness and more layers. So, let's start with our first horizontal and we could do the top with a razor as well, if we'd like i'm, just going to use scissors to start so i'm using the lawn comb controlling all of this hair, bringing everything straight up and i'm bringing it into My hands comb control with the hair, making a peace sign for those of you who have maybe seen me work before you know, i'm a big fan of what's called the triple clamp. So what we'll do is we're going to make a peace sign with the fingers or the hand that holds the hair fingers are tucked in i'm going to grab the hair with that peace sign and i'm going to use my ring finger to control it and provide Another layer of tension on the hair, so i'm pushing it towards the radial stationary guide. I take my peace sign, triple clamp it so now i have extra tension through here and i'm going to measure. I want it to the layers to start about the occipital, so there we're right there in a good place so next to get the same effect as a razor. Let me drop her down a little bit for all of you all right so to get the same effect as the razor. What i'm going to do is i'm going to come through open my sheer and slice through the ends of this hair, so we're not getting as clean of a line getting a lot more texture just right from the back. You can see how that produces that when creating new haircuts, do you remember exactly what you've done, especially the client loves it. What'S the same stacy, no, sometimes yes, and most often no, but here's the the fun part in that we can usually find out right um. I think in the salon world, it's really important to have systems and we have systems for how we cut lines. We have systems for how we create things, and so we rely on those systems. So we don't have to necessarily create the same haircut every time, but it's not always about creating a new haircut. Every time a client comes in it's about being able to recognize. Maybe the angle that we held it at or the little differences that we do in between each client that changes the cut. But that being said, it's not always about making. You know a new haircut, remembering the head sheet, all right, so everything was brought behind the head. Everything was brought up cut square. Now it's falling so we can see. All of this length is going to start to fall over and we're going to be taking that off right right through here, so those are the extra lengths of the tail or you can keep the tail. If that's up to you as well here in belgium, we have to close the hairdressing slots for six weeks. I know my heart's going out to everybody. You know i'm fearing that uh in new york we're gon na all right. So my next section now everything is brought back to that radial guide. So everything in front is brought to radial right here that separation from front to back. Then the next section is going to be brought back next section and so forth. So what we're getting is an extreme buildup of length and weight towards the front, so we can use that back bit as a guide using my long comb controlling all of the hair. Let me turn it forward, so you can see and my guide's starting to pop through so i make my peace sign and we're going to go through and cut that. So you should be able to see a lot of texture a bit of texture and through there and we're going to go through and do more, but it's just a tendency to get the ball rolling, get that texture started so that it gives us less work. Some of us tend to cut more straight lines and then go in and texturize it, which that's great too, i'm finding that i need. Every second is important, so minimizing the amount of extra work that we do can sometimes be really helpful. So, bringing this back all the way stationary at the radial and slicing through this, the last little bit. So if you are joining now and you're kind of seeing this starting to come to life, what we are doing is we've collapsed. The underside of this shape, everything below the horseshoe section, was cut to collapse. The weight, so everything in front of the round or in front of the ears in front of the radial was cut vertically vertical sections. Horizontal cut everything behind the radial was cut rounded, to eliminate more hair. You can see everything above was cut to really start to collapse it. So it was a stationary guide at the radial. Everything behind the back half of the head was brought forward. Everything in the front was brought back everything's falling that way. So now this is the point: we're gon na get this dry in detail and finish it now, but just checking making sure there's nothing else that we want to do while it's wet, i'm choosing to do the rest dry because dry doesn't lie. The wet hair is going to clump together and it might look thicker in certain spots for me to get it dry and see the texture build and see the detail of it. That'S gon na be really important, so we're gon na grab our dryer we're going to grab our dyson dryer. I love the daisa, we're going to add a little bit more of l'oreal professionals. 10 in one, it's going to add a little more weight to it. Keep it nice and smooth and soft and as we're drying it i'm going to be using a vent brush a vast vent brush. You can find on hair brain pro and i'm going to pretend like my hands, are handcuffed together. So my brush is going to go. My blow dryer is going to follow. I'M just going to be using the head shape just working with it every direction following instead of keeping the heat in one spot and really just kind of beating the head nice and smooth maximizing the amount of time that that air is on the hair. I never cut lines anymore. It'S so much softer, yeah red, it's a big. It does help. What'S the time you typically spend on a cut. You know i find i'm spending more time on a haircut right now, um between the covered restrictions and the guidelines of extra time. I think it's around an hour or so and that's you know i that our clients want that extra time, they're not getting the same personal touch that they've had all year or they haven't had it all year. So it's just a little bit less rushed and spending a little bit more quality time over quantity, so full air, full heat, i'm just going to let the brush the vent brush, letting that air go through it, everything going to one side of the head and then We'Ll bring it back so this is usually a part in the haircut where i have to stop and breathe and just relax a little bit. They tend to get so rushed with the blow dry, but if we just breathe a little bit and slow our pace, the hair will actually dry faster because we're keeping it on the section of hair a little bit longer. You want to make sure to collapse. All of this underneath in the nape, so for my clients, what i would do is i would encourage them to take note of how i'm drying it, and i would actually encourage them to clip all of this up to dry the underside and that's going to it's Going to make it easier for them to come through and get this nice and sleek then drop the top same thing. Just following the head shape, nice and slow hands are handcuffed together. My favorite part about these type of haircuts is that you start to see the shape show up as it's drying earlier. I said, the term dry doesn't lie and that's really what happens? I'M starting to see it kind of come to life and take in the form of how it's going to be worn day-to-day. So we want to make sure to get these front bits by the face nice and dry, because we want to make sure that we take as much weight out of those as we need to round. Bubbly shapes are the enemy of this type of card. It'S already gon na get the roundness through the elevation of the layers and the lines just get it nice and sleek last little bit will bring it all forward. So all right, so last little finishing touches. We could go through the flat iron and smooth some of these out and really collapse it even more, but i'm liking it to have its natural roundness through the layering pattern and the head shape. So we're just going to take our trusty mason and just collapse through the mid lengths and ends a little bit. So you can see here underneath we want to make sure to get this a little sleeker, because this is going to push the shape out. We'Re just showing our clients how to collapse that a little bit extra now we'll just take larger sections and from the mid lengths to the ends. We don't need to go into the root. Just get that nice and smooth last little bits in the back, and we should be good so again, if you guys, you have any questions on the technique. It'S at this point any questions on the technique to this point, or if you know you really enjoy having the head sheets so that you can understand it more go over to my instagram. It'S written backwards for those of you that can read backwards on the wall. Behind me, that's my mistake: it's drew schaefering d-r-e-w s-c-h-a-e-f-e-r-i-n-g. It should also be in the um, the heading or the description of this video and just send me a message and say: head sheet and i'll: send you an image of it. So you have it all right. So here dry doesn't lie so now we can see the densities and everything that's in place, so we're gon na i'm gon na start in back, i'm gon na tilt the head forward and i'm just gon na grab pinch and talk. So i'm going to just pinch at the base and talk through so that i don't build up any weight. I don't want to cut any heavy lines in this. I want everything to be cut from the inside out, so it stays nice and soft. We could go through if you, if you're a fan of cutting with a razor on dry hair. You could use that. That'S not my uh, that's not my style! So i'm just using my scissors and my keeping my scissors parallel to the hair and just keeping a very soft, delicate, fluid closing motion on it as we work through, even as we point cut going in vertically, as opposed to horizontally, so that we don't leave any Marks we want to be nice and soft all the way around, so we're going to cut everything in the back half, so my thumb blade. My thumb is not actually all the way in it's just very on the outside. Just nice and delicate nice and soft use. Texturizing shears here at this point to start to get a even more diffused line, and now it's really about finding balance with the details so again just taking and pinching, and we don't have to cut every little piece. Sometimes the little extra bits that hang over are the cool factor to the cut and they're hard to plan pulling bringing this back diffuse any weight through there all right. So now, let's go to the sides. So if we think in terms of a traditional bob shape, we would want to bring all of this back and cut it to preserve that length through there. So if you want to fill that space in and have more of a traditional shape, then let's we would be using our over direction back and away to keep that we could come through use our long comb to establish our line. Point cut but again for today i'm not i'm just going to be pinching and cutting. I want this to have a very, very soft, feel very un balanced, but imperfect, so tilting the head away enables us to get on the skin so that we can see where the hair is laying so we're not having to guess pulling it back from the face. When hairs moves before it's cut, it has to move after it's cut, so it's going to fall forward again and even when we point cut or when we're cleaning up these perimeters, we don't want to go horizontally. We want to come in vertically. We don't want to cut any little marks that are going to be out of out of suit. You want to stay consistent with a nice soft feel to it all right, let's bring it to the front, uh glamorous imperfections. Thank you, jason. It'S good to see you here, man thanks for supporting abby, beautiful job. I love every move very well. Thank you! So much abby. Thank you for uh checking it out and for your words, you know we all kind of have our own way of of approaching haircuts, and i think it changes day to day it's not always the same for myself. So we want this to be able to be kind of playful softer. I don't want this to be too heavy in front, so i'm just going to go in the inside and i can take all the length out, but just remove some of that bulk. So one side is removed. This is too much for me, so i'm going in my still blade's parallel to the hair and i'm just closing as i go through just kind of channeling and filtering out some of that weight and we do the same thing on the opposite side. So that way she can wear this at any side. She wants either direction, but we don't want it to be too too up on guard or crazy. We want it to be a little all right. So last bit, let's get some more volume going. Thank you. Anna yeah softness is the uh. The word for this haircut everything's cut at a higher elevation, and it gives this uh the whole feel to be consistent. Even when i'm going through here, i'm going to be cutting some of these shorter use. My comb, my crux comb as a reference for horizontal, but then i'm coming in and i'm staying very vertical, just taking some of that that weight out so it sits nicely in the neck area. You see this still feels a little heavy to me right back here. I want this to have a little more softness, so what we're going to do as we can see the roundness, the perimeter is great in through here we can see, there's a little bit extra weight, so i'm just going to take the same horizontal sections that we Cut it with i'm going to bring it back up to a stationary guide in the crown overdraft it further towards the crown. So my shortest layers are at the crown area right, i'm going to come through and just point cut, maybe a little slicing. And what that's doing is it's giving us this volume here and it's diffusing the weight line in the back of the occipital right there. So same thing here on the side: let's do the same, so it was cut at the radial as a stationary guide. So we're doing the same thing back, bringing it my combs finding. My angle fingers find my guide. Let'S point cut a little bit: you can slice a little bit of that out too. There we go so this this is such a fun haircut to do. It really is versatile, i'm finding that a lot of my clients are wanting to cut their hair off right now for two reasons: number one: a lot of our clients want change, especially change with things that they can control and in the world when you can't control A lot you can change your you can control your hair, so they're wanting to kind of do a little bit more change with that. The second thing is it's about to be scarf season here in new york right, a lot of brook or a lot of scarves, a lot of high turtlenecks a lot of hoods, so a lot of people are wanting to get that hair off their neck. In that midst of change, so kind of cutting things away so that they can layer up is a big big thing. Such a discipline not clipping the bits. Well, you know i'm good at it today, anna maria good at it today, it's good to hear from you. I miss seeing you hope, everything's going well for you just softening just through some point cutting. So the whole idea is that this these ends just kind of melt off into the skin. We don't want uh, we don't want any lines or any harsh visual horizontal references. We just wanted to kind of blend and melt in kind of the way like charcoal drawing, would versus a an ink line, and here we're just taking a little bit of this excess and point. You know here's the thing about point cutting we want to cut on the way out, so something that i wish i learned sooner when i was in school. If you cut on the way in, you can make a harsher line and it's going to show up more. If you cut on the way out, you can actually never cut a line so always cut on the way out and you'll get a softer result all right. Let'S see, i have a mirror over here to my right, so i'm checking for balance with that. What'S up joseph, how you doing brother, i was actually just thinking about you. I was using one of your charcoal lines to use back in the day. Let'S talk about charcoal drawings and razor cuts and all that stuff, so the cut's pretty much done we're really just using uh using the head shape to move it so that, however, they position it day to day, we want it to to work no matter what direction They move their hair or yourself not so sure. I knew exactly what you mean courtney, but i'm with you thanks joseph how's pa treat you man if you're not already uh following joseph uh joseph dimaggio, great educators, very talented stylist go, give him a follow and the show can then click all right. So again, everybody! This is a haircut that i learned at least seven or eight years ago, and it still stays true and relevant to technique with what we're doing on our client's, hair and again, to kind of recap: it a little bit everything below the horseshoe round of the head. We elevated straight up and we cut horizontal and that line falls and collapses really tighter to the head, so we're cutting the internal shape. First, the perimeter is the last thing that we cut. We cut everything in front of the radial as it lays so 90 degrees out, so we elevate it up, cut it collapse. We did that in front behind the radial. We took slight diagonal sections, we curved it so that it hugs the head shape a little bit more did that until we crossed the center, then we repeated on the opposite side, the top of the hair on the top of the round of the head. We started by separating the radial and we took horizontal sections, starting in the crown bringing it straight through. Let me find the frog it started, bringing up into the crown at the radio. So the radio is a stationary guy, nothing's cut. If it's not at the radio bring those up and we cut them. The first layer we wanted to hit at the occipital, so cutting inside out that length starts to drop. We get those dusty bits or those soft ends through the perimeter continue with horizontal sections back to the radial boom boom boom, throwing more and more length to the front. After that. We really just blow dried it. Keeping our hands nice and consistent getting as much air and heat on the hair without burning them, remember, smarter, not harder and then going through and just detailing it hi a thief. I wish i knew how to read that, and i wish i knew how to read that. But i, like the rose thanks red appreciate you so now she's pretty much done, and this is where, if she's my client i'd, be showing her my own little tips. The things that are my unfair advantages right so things that i have done, or i've experienced backstage styling wise, different product choices. This is when not only our own way of styling the hair and doing the haircuts come into play, but our communication with our clients is so important right now, all day today, we've been using the crux brain tools so go over. If you haven't had the chance to use them, i'm the creator of crux brand started, making tools that i found. I couldn't find the long comb is an essential for me. That'S why it's named the essential and the clips are rubberized with a heat, protective, silicone grip. So that we don't do any damage to the hair, nice and streamlined so they're, not bulky and they're, not too uh too big they're all found at hair brain pro. In addition to the the canvas rolls and all the other accessories that we have please, if you would please go, give me a follow on instagram and facebook as well as crux brand, would really love your support continuously. Trying to do stuff bring more for everybody, both the industry and education, and if you would like the head sheet for today, please go give me a um. Send me a dm on instagram and just say head sheet, and i will send you an image of the head sheet, so you have the full diagram of how to do everything. Today, someone was asking: what's the name of this cut, i'm telling you oh. Thank you. A fif i don't even know, then what did you tell her? The name of the cut was, i don't even know. If i knew the name of the cut is a disconnected bob shape, disconnected undercut bob shape again, my name is drew schaefering. Thank you. So much for joining and tuning in uh. Please comment anything below with your questions. I will be following up and checking this regularly hit me in a dm if you like, the head sheet, go support myself and crux brand on instagram and social media and then go to harebrainedpro for all of your tool needs, including the crux brand combs and clips. Thanks guys so much for watching have a great night i'll talk to you soon.