Pixie Shag Haircut Tutorial - Layered Bob Haircut For Women

Good morning, everyone thanks for joining us Randy from hairbrained. Thank you so much for doing this. This is it's gon na be a pretty interesting day. I'M gon na go right into just kind of starting my shape, we're kind of playing around with two different personalities on the head of hair this morning and when I work on images like this, I kind of take away the bulk or the groundwork of the haircut. Instead of going right into a target finish and I'm miss elevating, if you notice my elbow going up, it's gon na give me that nice curve. I do want to slenderize it around the face and make it smaller and actually show off these amazing cheekbones on our Marla Shea here and that amazing makeup by Luca you're getting a lot of hellos Michael. This is Randy behind the camera. I'M gon na pass on all of your questions. Okay, Michael and where can you tell us where we are? We are in a new location coming in September for the new platinum black, a Michael Haas salon in Westwood. It'S on Broxton, it's probably one of the best streets in the city, because it's the widest street and I'm actually really really excited. This is about as raw as it gets here. It'S such a cool space. I love the space. It'S 3,900 square feet two stories. It'S going to have an Education Center, which I have a feeling. Hairbrained is going to be very excited about and we're gon na be bringing in you know, classes from all different parts of the country and hopefully from the world the art of making will be back. It will be actually a step program which will start from the chair for the for the new ones in the necessary whole class, and we're gon na have a lot of fun here. I can't wait to show it off and be proud of it. I'Ve sold everything that I own, including my two children, we're gon na make it happen. Oh my god start cuts. Looking so cool, can you tell us where we're heading with this haircut yeah? So what we're gon na be doing, as you can see, I've sectioned out the top section here. This is going to be our pixie area. I'M sure you've seen a lot of these little quasi mullets happening around town lately, and it is actually a feeling towards that. What I'm just doing right now is. I want to shallow out the sides of her hair. Clearly having a model with this length really makes a nice makeover. I am gon na go in with a concave as I'm elevating my elbow. It is giving me that that feeling that goes up, I really want to make sure that we are going to show off her face. So I'm I'm gon na be cutting square here and I'm going to stop at the curve of the head in the back. In the back, we're gon na do something completely different. When I think about the methodologies that I use, I began with Sassoon, so I had 14 years of geometrics and then you know all the other companies and all the other creators of new methodologies. That kind of came along. You know we have a little bit of TG and Paul Mitchell and Paris, and you know Trevor Sorby, and we have you have quite a history. I was blown away when we did that in there he's a lot of fun. Isn'T it yeah? Oh my god, you spend time with Andy Warhol yeah. That was that was my first normal moment. Actually it was kind of like the flashlight just turned on, and you flew on the trapeze when you're a kid just family. I flew for six years. I was dropped on my head. A couple times then heading back. I do for a living is be a hairdresser, so I'm elevating and I'm also pushing forward a little bit. I do want to keep some weight in the back. The outcome of the haircut is really kind of a mystery right now. I know the idea that I want to have, and I know how I want to finish it so you're gon na. Let it talk to you a little bit a little bit yeah. You know. I I don't like the term, I know I don't like what that says and like what that mean, I know that all of us understand you know it was kind of like I was talking about me traveling when I was a kid. You know the language of hair is really a non translatable language. We all speak it mm-hmm and I think that you know we travel around the world working with teams and working on fashion shows and designers and whatever once it comes to you know, fashion and design. There'S a there's, a classic basic knowledge that I think most people have that actually study and are really deep into the craft. And we don't have to say anything. You know just the the mental collaboration and then allowing your hands to see where you're going we're getting. So many holos hi guys thanks for joining, I have to be honest. This is my first facebook live. How am i doing rainy? It'S going awesome. So if you guys are interested in studying and learning September will hopefully be the beginning date also, I am building a brand new team here and I will have what we normally do with fashion shows. I'M actually gon na be having a casting call for hairdressers, amazing and it's gon na be done on uh on a day. That'S going to be clearly one of our days off and I am a triple threat hairdressers. So I do haircut color and styling and target food and photography that makes your serious yeah, I'm actually shooting nah-ha in about two or three weeks actually actually says you've been here getting hollows from India from Napa Valley, the Philippines. There were a lot more. I just in India, hello, India, that's cool, isn't it I'm so excited I'm standing beside myself yeah. I love India. I was there a long time ago. Bombay oh wow, yeah, fantastic food and Napa mm-hmm got Buffalo drinking hideaway, Buffalo how's, your weather man. Are you guys in a heat wave or what so once again, they're in a heat wave or a snow storm exactly right? So, as you can see, I am kind of elevating my elevation comes from my elbow. My fingers are the same. The elbow actually moves into the concave element instead of moving my hands this way and getting a lazy wrist. The movement and the control of both sides being identical, is really in the body language that we work with the dance and now we're getting to the round of the head. So I want to make sure that there are you pulling that straight off of the round and then also just a tad forward. Okay, cool. I want to start exposing the face. Our finish is actually what's going to expose this haircut once we get to the top. We are going to go quite short, but it will not be a mullet. I don't like the name. I don't like what it looks like. I always like that. I, like the new, updated version. I think they're beautiful okay. So now we have finished these two side. Sections I'm gon na pull them out of the way steve is steve-o is asking. Why do you elevate the hair to cut this, because I want to slenderize what's happening around the face? You know she has long hair. Clearly I have not addressed the length yet there will be some length on the main part of the hair, but the elevation actually allows me to place a weight where, if I want on the head, does that answer your question? Stevo mmm-hmm little more so i'm darren is asking. If brentwood is your hood, it is Mike wide. Actually, my hoods really kind of like late-night downtown around 3 in the morning and Kerry Kerry is saying she's from Prince George Canada and she's. Just saying hello, Michael, oh hello, Prince George and then good evening from the UK - that's Sarah, oh wow! I used to live in. I used to live in Canada. I lived in Canada when I came from Germany, oh wow, I didn't have a passport. I was under my passport. It was too young, so here just a kind of elaborate. What I'm gon na do is I'm gon na elevate the comb and bring my guide. I'M gon na keep the hair at an angle, but I'm going to elevate here because I want to bring some weight right over the occipital and I'm gon na cut to my second knuckle and I'm gon na drop out the length and as you can see what That does is it gives this beautiful waterfall of hair and it allows me to not touch the weight. But if I push into the occipital you'll see where the volume is going to be cool. Okay yeah, I looked into Edmonton Alberta for two years and then we came down here and your mother is from Berlin, my mother's from Berlin. My father was born in Bologna, Italy, oh wow, and he had when we when my mother remarried and we came to the States. My father decided to open up a standing circus, which means that is there all year, long in Madrid, oh wow, and he had. He had run that circus until he passed away last year, Wow a very, very strong, very creative man. I think I have my hands from him to build everything, so you can see on the profile how nicely that sits, oh yeah, and what we'll do on the detail on the finish, my belief is, you cannot finish a haircut wet, it's impossible. You'Ll never see the lines, you'll never see the shape or the graphics. So for me, I come in right underneath the occipital lift it up elevate identically to the previous guide. You can make this a traveling, a stationary or an over directional guide. In this case. I'M actually doing a stationary guide, because I want to build some weight behind the mastoid process, which is the bone behind here, which i think is very sexy. Go to. The second knuckle perhaps salute this connection, as you can see, and as this comes down and blends in perfectly so vero saying bureaus from Mexico, I'm just saying it's so nice to see you work. Thank you, I'm Ella or yeah is asking when style TN will. This have a feathered look. I am going to do some detail work with some point, cutting mm-hmm and some channel cutting. I think that how we finish a haircut is really our personality and our signature. So yes, there will be some detail, work that will make each haircut each client each stylist have their own personality on that, and I think that's what makes all of us keep our clients. Isn'T it yeah we finish here. Melissa is asking: how did you figure this design out? I have that kind of mind. Okay, you know I went to you even picture it yeah. I went through Shay's haircut, probably about 20 times in the last two weeks. You know how I want to approach it, especially for hair, brained life and its core Facebook live, and I'm thinking to myself, you know what am I gon na. Do that's gon na make sense. What am I gon na? Do it? It'S gon na be creative enough to be creative, and what am I gon na? Do that's actually gon na sell in the chair for the general public, and I always look at that. You know I can go. We can all do red white and do Mohawks, but how is this model going to step out of the box Shay wanted to have something that was new, something that was a bit more dangerous, she's exciting I didn't want to have you know a 12 year old Sitting in my chair and create this peacock, but what I do want to do is I want to show that, no matter how we got wet, we can always finish it in the chair to make financial gain and I think that's what's really important and, as you Can see how this is shaping us, it's actually becoming quite pretty mm-hmm. Okay, I'm not interesting the length. I don't really care about the length on most haircuts until the finish, so I can put my frame around the artwork besides that cutting for length, I think, is a waste of time. You know you have clients coming in, they want to inches off. To inches doesn't mean anything to me, it really. It never has, and I think I think hitches is a man thing and they're always wrong. Carrie, saying you're, rocking hair, Salas love your work. Thank you and Linda says hello from Champaign in or hello, Linda, Champaign and Salem New Hampshire Melissa says it's mind-blowing to see this process Tina says hi from Pei Canada. Thank you. We have somebody who just joined asking Marvin saying: what do you call this kind of a hairstyle? I would say it's a mix of a pixie shag Jacobs, just so disconnected yeah. What'S gon na keep it unique and what's gon na keep it really working on the street is not only the disconnection but also the elevation. That'S gon na keep it wait where I want it or where I don't want it. If you notice the back right now, you can actually see the elevation is actually going into of the you. Are you so because I had the stationary guide now? I can see that my sides are completely disconnected from whatever length was created with that I don't care right now. That'S not that's not my main concern, so I'm gon na just rewetting actual just water, okay, I'm using ie from Wella Professionals. I put in a little bit of the perfecta me, which is a beautiful smoothing cream and also protects color and in your cuticle, and I mix that because I like to have a cutting tool. That'S gon na allow my fingers to slip through the hair instead of stuttering when the hair gets dry or compromised like these ends might be so that really sets me up for success for the haircut you're getting so many Wow's and hellos, and I can't pass them All on apologize for that, don't Donna said shags are your universally great Sharon saying I learn and process your methods better than any other. Thank you for sharing your gift and your skill. Thank you very much and then Mike Daniel Greco is saying. Hey, Michael looking forward to seeing you again at New York Fashion Week is always a pleasure working with you, my friend as well. I can't wait to see you so I'm gon na show you one of the most difficult parts of this haircut. You'Re really gon na have to make sure that the client knows what you're doing. This is the biggest step of all and thank you very much for coming. That'Ll be about $ 12,000. So what I'm gon na do now is I'm gon na come in I'm gon na start working on my front. I do want to give shade and bangs. I have a tendency to call bangs kind of more like a china doll, so unshaded a and a fringe fringe isn't much lighter it's a little area, but when I noticed the size of it for a head is a bit natete. So I want to. I want to play with this in a raw form and leave it a little bit longer, but I also want to take the top short now. I'M also going to incorporate some of the sections that we've already cut in this section, on top, which I will be cutting square and I will be not over directing I'll, actually true I'll have to travel forward until the length suits me. So when I make my decision on how I feel about the haircut, then we'll move forward, so I'm gon na section and obviously part in the center. Let'S take a look at where we did Sharon's passing on a compliment to the model saying that she's so beautiful. Thank you. Are you excited for a new haircut, you're ready she came in and she said you do everyone, okay, who's got. Are you with that right? I'M gon na section off at the crest of the head. Okay, the crest is actually, if you look at your old history class you'll see that through the globe on the teacher's desk was the north pole in the South Pole. So for me, the crest is right at the tip of that section. This is where we make our little idol, Woodstock flowers and whatever else we do and then the hair kind of spans around it that's kind of the direction, but I really want to give her something that's going to draw more attention, so I'm gon na come in. Quite square here, I'm gon na elevate straight up. It'S that good angle for you Randy can. I turn her just a little bit this way, yeah cause I'm gon na pull this straight up. I'M gon na keep my sectioning clean now notice. Here this is actually where my shortest piece is in the back of the head. Okay, this seems to be very happy for me. I feel really good about this length, so I'm actually gon na guide that I'm visually going to guide that I'm not going to drag sections like this for this type of work from one area to another and clearly you know just clean that up. Take it quite tight, I love using shorter blades. It gives me complete finger control and it really makes the blade feel like it's an extension of my fingers bit. Sooo tiny scissors actually takes care of me for this because I'm using a right-handed blade, as many of you can probably see, I am left-handed my first year haircutting it's I was right-handed and then one of my mentors there said you look very awkward. He says why don't you move your scissors to your left hand and all of a sudden I was my gloss. It was amazing, it's crazy, but what the Mitsui Thani is kind enough to do for me in Japan is they give me a right-handed blade and then everything from the axis here back is left-handed, so they literally take off the right-handed the right-handed handle and put in There, a very, very, very nice left-handed handle for me, which is thank you Kyoshi. I always like going over my top sections twice, even though I'm gon na destroy them, but it just keeps a really nice clean element. Next section I am gon na move forward to just about the size of the recession. I want to keep this for the bang area and I don't want to include it here, so it will be another disconnection I usually get to about 90 % finished and then I dry the hair and then the rest of the shape is designed for feeling keeping The hair, nice and controlled very, very nice, clean sections, clean cuts - you know, really have a nice GPS of where you're going, and I really don't start looking at it until I complete my section. So I I don't change my mind too much, which I have a tendency to do drastically. Once again, I want to keep the section wide enough for my fingers as I travel to the center of the head. You'Re gon na notice that the sections gon na be wider than my fingers and there's a trick that I have to include the section and make it much smaller in width and what that is we'll do that right. Now, I'm gon na pull it into shape. I'M gon na take my comb and come from the outside and cross over to the other side. Pick it up and I'm gon na do the same thing from the opposite side, I'm going to come in, reduce the width come in and now notice how much thinner that section is and then I'll remove the weight. That way is. I don't have to do two sections on both sides of the head and I get this beautiful little valley of shortness that cascades over the top part. You know it's funny, we see hair shows, and you know, events around the world and there's so much fantastic talent and artwork. You know, and we come up with every year, there's a new, a new brand and a new a new tool and a new idea. I think if we stick to what we do best as designers, hair designers and just make our process a little easier for ourselves and then share that process, I think our recognition will escalate dramatically has really good hairdressers. It'S no need to reinvent the wheel, just make it run smoother. So here I am on my last section, just getting rid of some of that here. You feeling a little less weight on your head. There yeah I'd like to see it. Okay, so you can eat me tonight you can get away yeah. Also. I want to get into the color a little bit. Obviously well, it is the color of choice for me, it's something that I've I've used for many many many many years. I just started working with well a professional for I think about seven years now as a top artist and I believe whatever color you use in whatever we work with, you know we can pretty much sell anything. But what is most important is the consistency of control professional design and is the company motivated to create new ideas. As time goes along, you know, and once again yeah you have a lot of choices. You really do. Carolyn is asking what's the difference between this technique and flat layers on flat layers. That'S a good question. It'S just as you notice. You know. I am now gon na go back this way doing a few, a little bit more, I'm playing around more with the shape and the disconnection of shapes. When I look at you know the elements of square around triangle, I do work that into my into my designs, but what I'm really doing is, as I'm taking the weight off the hair. My technique might change because I'm exposing less weight on the human skull and with that it helps me design the hair just for her cool um. How many are sorry wondering how you had altered this for blonde hair just because of the nature of blonde hair showing everything mm-hmm? I would take much smaller sections, so much smaller section, much smaller sections. I would probably also color afterwards. I would usually put my hair cut in and then Megan's asking or sorry tramper is asking: what's your natural hair color, I'm brunette, but I've been going with blonde highlights for a very long time: okay, okay, great yeah, she's about a level 5 6 and we decided To go in with a level 7 and 1/8, we did an 8 on top. We did a 7 on the bottom. Clearly, her her highlights were only partial, so they were only on top and I decided to use the creativity of color for that pre lightened hair. Also, looking at the compromise ation of some of the ends, which you know, thank God, we are taking them off yeah christine is just the same that she likes the flexibility of your comb and she also likes to use a light-colored comb and dark hair. I wanted to know the brand this brand actually is YS Park, which is one of my go-to s for everything. I do have this one as well, which is a less expensive button, but it also herzl more YS Park does not burn under heat for your hot tools. This one will melt okay, okay, cool, so I actually use the more flexible one for barbering, which I also have YS parks. But you know I I have the privilege going through the days that I've been doing hair and I can afford the best and that's just the way I work. I don't live paycheck to paycheck anymore, thank God. So I'm gon na go in very, very freehand. Just to feel where I want to go with this shape, if there's you know, there's some compromised hair here on the cuticle hair, don't need it get rid of it, I'm how to believer in having a client or a model or anyone workaround problematic type of hair. You know sometimes you'll see on the hairline here the little bounce of a cowlick. I have been known to take that down to the bone and get rid of it and it actually makes the bangs close up. So if it's not needed, don't use it wow. That'S so nice she's got a great face. Doesn'T she she smiles too much for my taste, so I'm just playing and I'm flirting with the length right now. I'M not you know clearly haircuts like these are not haircuts where we have linear hair all the time. I am very very happy to say that I think that part of our world is gone at least for this part of the decade. You know having a privilege of working from the 70s all the way. All the way into now. I'Ve seen a lot of different trends and I've seen a lot of different. I call them feelings. I don't like trans trendy is a little bit too. I don't know to novice, I suppose that's a territory and so for me, it's kind of you know we're in this business because we love doing here. Well, what do we love about it? Have you ever asked yourself that you know I mean what is it? Oh, I want to make be pretty I like making people happy. That'S great! That'S terrific, but you know when I think about putting designs on it on a human head. The responsibility behind it know your stuff, mm-hm, study, jesse, jane, says beautiful work. Michael. Thank you very much. Jesse and Megan has a question: does the model have natural ways well, the natural way she has does not go any further than this. She does have a bump on top of her head because of the gray factor, which is a different texture. So it does pop up a little bit and, being that her face is very petite. It has a tendency to elongate the head. Even more now what's happening is because I'm taking it short, I want that to pop for the did style design, but also the shortness. In here is going for a bit more width and the most slender her back down again like that mm-hmm, so she could literally, you know wash one day sleep for three days at Burning Man and still look that good yeah. Some of these pieces. You know, and the funny thing is, is yes, I do do geometric haircuts. You know I'm a Sassoon II as I worked for the man for glorious glorious amounts of years. In the days when we didn't dress like pirates, we were all wearing three-piece suits. Now we can, you know pretty much everything goes, but I think we're moving in the right direction. Mm-Hmm hope you guys, like the color cuz, I'm crazy about mm-hmm. Are you getting so many emojis? Oh good. Emojis are always a good sign. I'M too busy to talk to you, but here's this. I think education has taken such a different turn. You know with all this. You know: education was never on a piece of glass, it was always in person. There wasn't always a handshake and I and a thank you and a graciousness and what we do, and I think that you know when you guys actually meet the people that you've emoji have the consideration, the respect and the professionalism, to really appreciate that. They'Ve helped you in your career. I tell you honestly if it wasn't for my mentors, we wouldn't be here today. You know I always I always respond the same with my team. Billy from the salon is here today with us she's at one of our assistants. Doing incredibly, incredibly, actually more scary well hands Billy. She was it's amazing. How fast kids learn now huh, oh yeah, oh my god, it's scary, just expose but cool, is that they don't always get it right when they're learning, which really creates new mart mmm, which is my I love that you know Billy and some of the other assistance At the Salonika, how can I didn't do this like? This is awesome? This is great. We can there's something there that's elaborate on it. You know we have a. We have kind of an education, great ideas right like yeah. Maybe you don't know how to get them out. Yeah yeah. We have an education board in one of our hallways, where anybody can write anything. They want requests. That'S smart doing! Pictures with you know, if they want to do a photo shoot Marin is asking. How do you feel about using a razor on this type of haircut? You know, that's not a bad idea. I actually brought one because I changed my mind a lot. I didn't know whether I was gon na get sue, this haircut or actually use blades. But the only thing to be careful about is when you do get to the ends and if you do promise the lengths make sure that the hair is not as compromised on what we just cut, because a razor will actually shred this. Instead of giving it a little bit of meat on the ends, but that's a really good question and I I would guess, if Shay had a little thicker hair, I would probably be all for that, especially for the texture. This is looking so, oh, my god you're. So cute yeah, all right, perfect me and some water, I'm Jeremy Nixon, is asking when doing a wild fun. Hair cut like this. What advice would you give a hairdresser? That'S scared to step outside the box. You'Re in the perfect place, okay step out of the box, and then what do you do when you're out there take the box with you? You know the whole idea about doing something. Have I done this haircut before? No, I haven't and I'm excited about it, because if I would have done a a commercial hairstyle on shade, she would look like a commercial person mm-hmm and from her personality and the talking that we did. She'S not mmm, and I don't want to put myself in that round, and you know what it also allows me to make mistakes mm-hmm. You know like, for example, this section here in the back of the head. If I have a color, I will take a different hair, color or a different tone and I'll put it in the back of the head for a client with highlights, or maybe low lights or even just a base color. I want to see what I want to do with her color the next time I see her. That'S my little test to see what it looks like they don't even know it's there. Here'S a compliment for you. Miji says it suits the model perfectly. I'M obsessed, I'm so glad, I'm so glad. Thank you for that I'll be here all week. So now we have our softer feeling. What I want to do now is: I want to really open this up just a little bit and how I'm gon na do. That is I'm going to come in. Do my sectioning now watch, I'm gon na come in this would be dead center. Okay now I don't know if that her hair actually parts there. Sometimes we have clients say my hair, always splits back here. Well, that's because we're cutting our shapes with dead center. If I come in and look at natural center, I'm gon na take my fingers below the occipital and push up. That is where natural center is, and if you notice it's just a little bit off and it's always off on the hair, that has the least amount of density, so the more density is going to be on this side. So if I now take my center cutting and actually make this the center, her hair will never split. Thank you very much. So I'm gon na come in and do something very basic. I'M gon na come right above the occipital. I can actually take her head. Take a look where it's coming beautiful so start with beautiful round bone right here and I'm gon na come in just above the occipital and take that hair away from the top of the ear. This is going to now be my weight removal to expose this top part and then we're gon na blow. Her dry do some detail. Nice clean sections once again, sectioning is very important. It'S gon na give you a guideline, but don't disallow your own methodology to come through the world. It'S really important, you got ta, be you, you know just because somebody doesn't like it doesn't mean they got taste, opinions vary, and one thing that's worked for me is somebody gives you an opinion. All you have to do is look at them and give them a half a smile, it's scary as hell, but they go. They go with it, so I'm gon na elevate now completely horizontal, even with her head tipped forward. This is very important and I want to hollow out that area and I don't want to take a lot of hair out, because I want this. I want more of a feeling instead of a nother disconnection, so I'm gon na come in. I'M gon na grab the hair, it's nice and moist, I'm gon na slide my blade and just barely. This is where that question was with the razor. This would be a good place for it, but, as you can see, it's just bringing up a little bit of flavor just to start exposing that if I'm not happy about it, I can't actually go shorter on her and just come in and hollow that little bit Out, if you take too much out yes, of course, her ends are gon na be too weak, but I think for the way that this is working, I'm very very content. With this, you can see how much hair came out on that, but here's also, if this pulls it all then means your scissors are dull, absolutely yeah. I get my blade sharpened about three times or every three months rather, and it really does keep me in check. You know it make that I can literally raise her now here I went into a little bit of a V right, so that would take care of that section by two sections over the mastoid process. I want to be more careful because we're missing half the hairline right, the hairline - doesn't come down this way, we're missing all this hair. So here I want to elevate even higher, and I want to actually pull out to that corner where the square hair cut would be here, and here I'm now going to approach my corner once again, and here I want to be a little more gentle. I want to actually take care of more here than here, so here, I'm just gon na come in. I'M gon na draw that line down just a little bit. That'S gon na give me a little bit of support for that piece that I built on top Jeremy Dixon's asking. If you ever go to Texas to teach, I do if I'm invited okay, so the best thing would be for him to connect with you on your website or absolutely you can go to. You can go Instagram, which is mm/h two A's se don't put in two S's, there's no hacen Haws, and you can also go to Michael MCAS comm, which I'll turn you on to my email, which is the art of making dot ta om, as in Michael at Gmail, I travel all over the world teaching and that would be the best way to get in touch with me. I just want to take a look at what I have on both pieces and make sure there's some uniformity and I will actually take my white teeth and just push up a little bit have an angle just to pop that hair up and I'm pretty. I'M pretty happy with that, so we're gon na leave that alone. We might address it again when it's when it's dry. Now I wanted to take another piece. I don't want to connect it, and here I just want to see where we are. As far as the length I'm gon na come and do just a little bit more of that, I want to pull it right over that corner where the square would be, and once again you can see the ends are actually angled in a V and I'm gon Na come in and just take a little bit of that weight out right here on both sides, always using my white teeth for tangles and my fine teeth for pulling the hair out there. You know, yes, you can channel cut this. You can point cut this. I prefer not to do it when it's wet, because I have less control. We are all control freaks. I think we need to pull in that and I think for right now. I think we're pretty cool such a crazy see how nicely this caps, the back of her head and we're we're gon na, be building this little and hide money in there. If you want to yeah, I think that's kind of cool I haven't blow it out before. I start a thermal image which is from home Wella we're gon na go in with a little bit of this to protect from the heat, especially on those of the fragile ends that are still left, which I have not taken down yet right there. Thank you. It'S actually a vest fresh, another white, a spark miracle. I have actually they always say originals like that. So the drawing of this, if the client actually sees me doing this she's gon na say, is this. What I do I wan na say absolutely the one thing about my work that I like to do is I like to straighten the hair, so I can actually see my connections and disconnections and make sure that whatever line work is supposed to be where it's supposed To be, there was a question earlier about doing this Cup on a blonde. I would definitely make sure that I straighten it Flatiron it and then go back and put texture in, because that's perfect and you know your hands - are your best tool so going in and getting the leap base covered a little bit. I can start seeing what this haircut is going to do for me when it, and I can also start seeing where the volumes gon na be where the definition of the sign is going to be. Where do I really want to bring the attention to and it'll kind of guide me how I'm going to approach the completion and the finish finish now: they're building a haircut is kind of like building a house, that's finished which allows you to go in and inspect, But you can't live in it until it's finished finished about apparently so do you I'm that's the great thing about being in this space. There'S no mirrors for anybody to read laying about it's like that fun, special you've spent an hour and a half whittling away. You pulled out everything that you've ever learned anytime yeah, I kind of like this is very, very happy hair right now, taking off all that thing from that weight, you know bringing in a little more help to the ends. I think you know we do so much. Color work in the salon every day passionately just making money and all that we really have a tendency to do too much of what the client is expecting from a service without really educating her with wide. That service won't work for the future, because you can't change her hair because of the compromised hair. So for me I work extremely seasonally. You know right now, I'm working so the clients that are coming in all of July are going to get something. That'S going to take them through August and as we get into August, the highlights the secondary and to bring it back down taken away from the cage lon. You know we don't think a lot about how women changed their makeup in their clothes and unfortunately, in LA now we don't have whether we have a condition so everybody's always lon, but I like to make my work shine, no matter where they go, and I definitely Want it's extremely important, especially for you folks, out there that are brand new to the industry. Please educate yourself on two or three of your favorite fashion designers, not on this continent and also two or three iconic hairdressers that will help guide you in the way that you see, that is by somebody that scares the hell out. It and research them grab a doll head grab a model and just the only way that you're going to succeed is by getting out of the area where you feel you need somebody's permission to make. You feel that you're, okay to anybody, Joey asked for this haircut work on a round shape or a round face way. It'S a really good question. I actually don't work. I work more with bone structure than I do with roundness and not grounds for triangular or whatever. I think I think our industry is very very strong in that, and I appreciate it and I work with it, but that to me is not always the end-all to end off, so she looks like somebody famous yes, I'm using my GHD younger. It always has music for me. Excellent, have to us. They light up in just a couple of seconds, and it makes my job easier. I don't have to keep burning electricity all the time, so I'm gon na come in and just take care of those ends. A little bit because I want a little more visual control, not necessarily styling control. I actually like the texture of her hair and I would probably suggest she lets it dry, naturally, with a little bit of styling product to control health elements, and I can already see what I want to do as far as the length is concerned and where we Are as far as the feeling of the day, okay, so I'm gon na take more length off and take out a bit more weight here in there extremely wrong. But I like that. Let me see what the hair really wants to do for her, and it also teaches me how I'm going to educate her with what she's gon na need for take-home products to get a similar look in my salon. We actually teach clients how to do their hair. They bring in all their own stuff and we give them a blow-dry appointment and we go ahead and teach them how to do their hair. If we actually don't touch the hair, it's just a it's a guidance. It'S really quite funny. You know we have session kids. They have paper or plastic, so I'm gon na approach the front first. This is gon na give me my guide turn around for you before you move on Jeremy's, just asking how you like the GHD blow dryer high, chair yeah. I do I think GHD was an amazing company, they've kind of taken, the the mystery out of how hot do tools get and how hot do tools need to be. You know I like that, so here, I'm just gon na come in very, very rough. Just to give a little, not a blending, but just an outline of things that still don't work for me and then I'm gon na bounce, my blade with my finger just to get those pieces that we always like seeing in photo shoots. That kind of just you know mmm just come out a little bit kind of like that and I'm gon na do it on her length as well. That'S too long, don't like it and I'm gon na start where my last disconnection is and I'm gon na start bouncing right here. Okay, I like that. I feel better about it. You know the thing about it is: is your your hands will see what your eyes will feel while your brain is actually touching the idea of a new design, and once you have that down, then your hairdresser, you can follow the yellow, brick road. What kind of carillon is asking what kind of tension are you using when you bounce through there, when I bounce the tension that I'm using here this hand is actually pulling the hair towards me so that I don't have to open and close, I believe, sometimes, when We open and close there's hair that gets caught here and it actually starts ripping and if we close it too far, it actually cuts mm-hmm. I want it to glide and by gliding and pulling forward, I'm actually removing the hair that I want to remove a little bit right here and yeah. I mean, of course you know. Is this gon na be finished? No, it's not! There'S gon na be more shortness and more pieces, and more this and more that it has to be. This is one of those haircuts that's hard to know when to when to stop. Oh yeah, oh god I can. I can widdle the way I'll see you next week. You come finish. This whole thing you know, funny thing is, is it's sometimes it's just millimeters. You know that that blonde question once again going back to that. Oh, my god, he got blonde hair and you're doing scissor over comb. You know says her combs, the only technique. You can't look cool doing because it's just so mental you know, but I do like what's happening here, see that feels good. It'S kind of a kind of a Stevie Nicks, Joan Jett kind of a thing for those of you who are less than 12 years old. You won't know who that is, google, it. Okay, now science and I'm literally gon na, come in I'm gon na. Take a section from behind the mastoid, bring it to the temple area. I'M going to take this entire section and I'm gon na come in. I'M gon na leave plenty of space in my fingers. There'S a couple of pieces. We missed, and I'm just gon na, come in and soften that up. I am going in at an angle. I don't believe that point cutting is supposed to take off length only weight in this case, I'm actually putting in a little bit of cutting damage. As I call it, and that feels much better, this was a technique. I learned from the famous Chincha Cove in the 70s, who was a very famous Beverly Hills. Hairdresser kind of a hairdresser to the stars was Hugh Hefner's best friend I worked had the privilege of working with him on his styling designs that were incredibly unorthodox, but I always get excited when somebody just going in there and just doing something that nobody's doing mm-hmm. You know, and it's like okay, like I said in the other, you know we're all things won't take ideas and hmm, you know then become famous, I'm so good in the back. I'M not happy with the way this is now. This is where I'm gon na approach a little bit of the length, but I'm not really gon na make a big statement out of it. So I am gon na go ahead and just cut some of that out very, very free, very organic, very off the wall, but I think what's gon na happen is as we pull this around. You know I'll come in and just touch the ends just to make them look a little bit like they were supposed to be there. I'M gon na take that section there Center the head between the two balance points of the neck, just kind of cross into that. There'S my section you Jeremy says he wants to be like Michael Osman Chrissa. You know what I want to be like Michael house. When I grow up. Let me tell you thanks Jeremy. You know, I think I guess I think what makes it you know. It'S funny. I'Ve worked for a very long time. Actually this this October I'll be doing this for 49 years. Believe that, but to be quite honest, it wasn't until the last 20, where I really found the fact that I'm okay mm-hmm, you know I've got skills I can. I can play with them or not. I can work with them or not. It'S all up to me and you know, don't be afraid of it. You got ta, take those shots, you know, I don't think a mannequin head really works for me as well. I need to have a live model. I need to have a human being with you know, with a life with a life, you know something a scalp that breathes. You know an attitude that I can forget about. This is still too heavy for me. They want to definitely make this Michael right here. This is definitely better for me and then we'll address the sides where these guys are here. I'M going in. I just want to soften it. First, I'm gon na come back in, go very, very deep and I'm just gon na come in on the top. Let me turn this for you Randy uh-huh, more light on it. Did you head down just a slight and I'm just gon na, come in and point into it to remove weight? I like the length I just want to come in and just touch it just and if you like, I think I want to say anything, but they know a couple that everybody's just like a meditative kind of voice. You know a little just a happy just make me laugh blow in everybody, but blow in the wind got ta have fun come on thanks. Everybody for tuning in this is like really exciting. For me to do, and and working with, Randy and harebrained is always been a blessing. I think I think Randy and I met when you were pretty much at the beginning. Here yeah I was the first hair dresser. He meant that didn't spray hairspray from stage onto his camera yeah, so I'm gon na come in on the side. Now, I'm gon na just go very quickly to finish this off. There'S a few pieces. I just wanted to touch and then I'm gon na come in and do a little channel cutting just because I feel like it just come in and slide that through there a little bit clearly there's that disconnection which I happen to like a lot. The cool thing about this haircut or haircuts like this, so I'm going to show you this in a second if you pull her hair back. This is a very, very European thing that people are doing right now in Paris and Milan parts of parts of Japan. You know they can, they have pieces and I think, there's some fun. I'M just gon na keep this very raw haircut. You know if you have geometrics behind this you'll be disappointed, but the pleasure of this haircut and I think the finish anyone. I worked when a long time ago I studied with John Chow Hagen. He had a very, very interesting and a very unique way of cutting hair dry. I learned a lot of dried techniques with John and an amazing person, but he had a he had. A flair is, you know, so hard was amazing. My personality is your hair Jesus. How do I make that mine and he says just cut hair as well as I do okay in here, just gon na come in and just take a little bit of that. You know I don't want it. I don't want to remove my design, but I definitely just want to shatter it up just a little bit more and then we'll style her out I'll, be on time. Randy. Oh good yeah, I'm gon na take you in. I do have a job, you know and I do need my doughnut. He might doughnut my coffee. I remember I was teaching the class in the Midwest. I remember them asking he's like so why don't we order lunch? What would you like bottle of smart water and a doughnut that would be my go-to, so whoever wanted me in Texas I'm cheap, but I'm not cheap, but I can't be bought. Yeah shatter the sounds a little bit more, take off some of that unwanted and then how do I feel about the whole feeling am? I am I feeling comfortable. Am I feeling just about right - and I am like what I did here today - everybody's loving, I'm so glad. I really hope you guys, you know, got something out of this and you can have some fun with this and, yes, you know the funny thing about. It. Is is I look at techniques in cutting today as short, medium along? I don't think that there's any haircut that you are doing where you can't put that on somebody longer or shorter and get a different feeling and really when you think about the dynamics of haircutting. That'S pretty much really all it is. How does that fit on the human being and how good do they feel wearing it, and how good do I feel that they're actually showing it off? You know I look at every head waiting for a frame to hang at the Getty. That'S pretty cool, so Jeremy was loving, your cape, yes, Jeremy, that's his salon! Name yeah! It'S just spelled backwards yeah. So when the clients look in the mirror, they can read my salon name in the right direction during if you sell him one. If I would sell him one yeah Jeremy, we're gon na have to meet yeah Jeremy. Where are you he should come and work at your salon, then yeah? I think he should he would get one for free yeah. Do we know where Jeremy's from yeah, I think he's I think, he's in Texas, another Texas. They have some great hair in Texas. So what I'm gon na do, I think I'm gon na do this. I'M gon na have to do this because I'm gon na feel really good about it. I'M gon na give her a Dior bang, and this is a technique that I worked with many many years ago in Amsterdam and what it does is. It actually allows the hair to part and section this way a little bit. So what I'm gon na do quickly with a little bit of moisture? How am I gon na do this with you there, let's see I'll, show me how you're gon na do it over here over here, okay, okay and what I'm actually gon na do. Is I'm gon na come through the middle and I'm going to do a finger wave right there? Okay and what I'm gon na do? Is I'm gon na just cut into it right here a little bit and I'm gon na cut into the bottom of the finger wave very strongly right about there? So what happens now is the hair will actually start giving itself a little bit more of a feeling. I'Ll take that one away I'll do another finger wave, there's my wave and I'll come in at an angle here from the cheekbone, but on the other side I come in from the opposite eye to go along with that wave. Okay, now what'll happen is when that hair dries. She can actually fold it and, as you can see, it really makes a very nice soft feeling that would be called the Dior bang. So you can see how that hair already wants to go into that. So we'll do that a little bit more on this side, one more time bring in a finger wave for those of you who don't do finger waves practice practice practice bring that down bring this one in a little bit stronger there. We go like that here. I'M gon na open this up, I'm just gon na go ahead and just channel into it. I think this is where it's going to be where people are gon na say. Excuse me, aren't you famous mm-hmm, she's gon na call me close your eyes. Just very gently is the Bob Ross routine away from. I would have nightmares. I swear kind of nice right, mm-hmm I like it, you may stay. I'M gon na have to definitely from the other side. Yeah sure that's gon na kill me. That'S all I'm gon na come in shrinker wave. This way, bring it back cut into it and, of course, cut into it just kind of play with them. I'Ve worked Connie suggested that you grow Bob Ross for uh. Oh, you know what I have a wig at home. I went. I went as Bob Ross, one Halloween, I did. You know what I loved about him and that besides the fact that it he was so positive, but I loved his house simple. He made things. He tell you about easy. It was in the sound your how easy it was yeah not to have tjs about right yeah, I painted a fence with the brush he uses, and here I was spending all this money. You know now, I'm using actually those brushes for hair painting so uh. What comes around goes yeah interesting, but yeah. He was uh as a trip and you know what the weird thing was as kooky as I am. I changed my mind.