How To Cut A Modern Wedge Haircut Tutorial

And i'm gon na work just off the edge of the eyebrow, so kind of the height of the eyebrow. Here all right guys. What'S up welcome to today's video today, i'm gon na share with you guys how to cut a wedge haircut. This is going to be super fun and i'm going to try to make the technique as simple as possible, because this isn't a complicated haircut. The sectioning is super important, so we're going to go over the sectioning step by step. Also, some of the tools that i use i'm going to use the tri-razor today in some parts of this haircut, i'm going to use scissors in other parts of this haircut as well. So we're going to really mix up the tool choice because that'll give us different. Textures within the cut, so i hope you guys are as excited as i am. Let'S get started with the cut here. We go the sectioning i'm going to go straight back on the head shape. Now, if your client wears a left hand, side, parting, right hand, side, parting or center parting doesn't really matter at the beginning of this cut at the end, when we go to cut the top, then we really kind of need to know for now, i'm going to Start this cut on a left-hand side parting for a wedge haircut. I like it with a little bit of a side parting, so we're going to start off comb everything straight back and i'm going to work just off the edge of the eyebrow so kind of the height of the eyebrow here, and i'm going to take my line Straight back so i go through here now: i've got it sectioned at the parting straight down, uh. On the left hand, side, parietal ridge sits about here. So i go just a little bit above prydal ridge and that's where i take that parting. Now, when we move to the sides of the head, i want to separate front and back when we talk about front and back, we look at the hair density and how it plays a role in the cut, so you've got density. That goes all the way down here in the hairline hairline flows down. This becomes a thicker point in our head because we have more hair to work with, as we work towards the front the hairline goes up and then we have less hair to work with as we work into the side. So what we want to do is we want to separate those two points with a straight down vertical line that goes right in to that hairline, so that should match up. Then i take the rest of this hair. I comb it forward and i'm going to clip it away now. We'Re gon na do the same thing. On the opposite side, it's just getting everything flowing and moving in the direction i'm gon na be taking the partings later on in the cut anyways and now the most important part is how you section the back. So we've got the front and the back sectioned out now, i'm going to draw a line straight down center back we're going to go straight down center back and draw a line. So my parting is here - and this is where a lot of people like continue it over and then drop it down, because i've separated front and back all this hair is basically going to want to fall to the sides. All this hair is going to want to fall to the back for the most part, so i can just go straight down center back with my parting all right. So why is the back so important? Because this a wedge is a very stacked up haircut. So what i don't want to do is stack too high, so it's really just playing off of this occipital bone area. So when i look at where do i want to section - and where do i want to cut this wedge to? Because i'm going to look at this as a vertical line, that's going to move just like this straight up the head, so where the stack is going to happen, see where the head peels away right there. That'S where the hair is going to start to stack and then the rest of this disconnection is going to kind of fall over it and build a little bit extra weight in length. So i don't want to go too low because i don't want to have it too bulky in the back and i don't want to go too high to lose that kind of disconnect which is what's going to make this kind of have a modern feel. Here we go so we're going to start by working straight down center back. So what i want to do is i want to draw this vertical line like this comb, the hair over and i'm going to start working at the top and work my way down. The reason i want to start working at the top is because i want to pick my length at this point. This is going to be my basis, for the whole haircut is right here. So what length do i want that to be so i'll? Take another vertical parting and i'll comb the right side out of the way. Now i've got this little bit right here, so now bring this hair out and i decide what do i want that length to look like you want it to be? Pretty short, some people go through here and even cut with a clipper. For me, it's a little more machine made with the line. I like to start this line here and then continue cutting that line. Now, i'm not following the head shape. I'M following the line that i want to create so right in here, so here's the biggest question at this point: what is the over direction? So my over direction is just to the previous, not even all the way over, so bringing that previous section. Halfway to the new i want to travel across the back of the head, i'm not trying to build up too much length in the corners at this point. So i don't want there to be too much over direction now. This is where that over direction will happen a little bit more because the round of the head is starting to peel away and that's where, for me, this cut's going to be a little more personalized. Rather than using a clipper, if i use the clipper, i could go straight up like this and cut through it, which would be fine, but we tend to round a little bit more with a clipper. So then you lose the length over here and i want to have a little bit of that extra length. Let'S move on to the other side of the head, so now here's the biggest change. So when we cut the left-hand side of the head, our fingers are pointing. So let's say we take our parting, we're cutting towards the left-hand side. Our thumb is moving in the direction that we're going when i go to cut the right-hand side of the head. I flip my hand and now my fingers are pointing down, but my thumb is pointing in the direction that i'm going so anytime you're going to be pushing your new hair towards the guideline right. So i'm taking the new section and the new parting pulling it to the guideline. My thumb needs to be pointed in the direction i'm going. If you're going to change that up that changes, the rule a little bit, the rule is you're pulling new hair to the guide. You want the thumb going in the direction you're moving, so i was going this way now, i'm going this way and cutting from top. So now i'm cutting from bottom to top. That'S why i started on the left hand side, because i wanted to cut from top to bottom to start it out, because i wanted to determine this length first, so now i'll spray a little h2o. So here i take a vertical line again, just like i did on the opposite side, comb this hair over, get it out of the way. Now i'm going to comb up into the hair, my fingers are pointing down. This is why it's important to have a strong guideline. I can see it through the hair there, so i work my way up and cut through. This is the hardest part right here, because what you're going to want to do with your hands is shift to become more comfortable you're going to want to twist and bend your fingers, and you can't because the more you twist and bend it changes the lengths of The hair, now what i'll do is just do a little checking. So when i look at this hair should see a slight kind of beveled, rounded edge to the hair i'll just continue. I want to check this corner here. You see that this came back a little bit further, that's that over direction that i was talking about as the head starts to round around that creates that little bit of extra length in the haircut so guys, that's how you create that underneath so now we are Going to cut the crown area or the back of the head, the top back of the head, you can see where that splits. That'S that split splitting it in half front to back, i'm going to be taking a vertical section straight down center back to start this and we're going to continue pretty much the same exact shape that we created on the underneath we're just going to have extra length In the haircut, so i've got this vertical section here, it's about a half inch wide. I don't want to go more than that, because i don't want to create too much over direction so now i want to continue this line. So if i continue this line straight up, what's going to happen, it's going to fall and be a little bit collapsed, but it will have some graduation in the top part of the section. What i mean by that is you got to look at why, when weight builds up when weight builds up it's below 90 degrees, 90 degrees is straight out from the head, so you look at how 90 degrees kind of shifts and plays out. So this is 90 degrees here. 90. 90. 90. 90. 90. right. So if at this point - and i cut the hair here - i'll build up weight, if i'm at this point here and i cut the hair here - i'll build up weight now, if i'm at this point - and i cut the hair here - i'm not building up weight. So you've got to decide what i think about it is i remove weight, remove weight and then, where do i want to start to add it to create this shape? Sometimes i'll? Take my client just like this in the mirror and she's got her head i'll, make sure it's straight on with the mirror and i'll look at this shape that i want to build up, and i think about with the comb where i want to place that weight That will look the best on her head shape. So when i look at this here and i look at her chin or her jaw line, i think about okay. Well, if this shape, if it's flattened here, it doesn't look right with her jawline. If it has a little bevel and a little weight build up, it looks great with her jawline starts to extend the head, shape out just a little bit and makes it more symmetrical. If they don't have a strong chin right, then i don't want to build too much weight back here, because it's going to look like she's getting, you know, blown with a fan backwards right if she's got a strong jawline and her chin shoots out a little bit. I don't mind balancing out and building it out, just a little bit. What i'm doing here is. I want to start building that weight now. What does that mean? How do i do that? So as i go here, if i drop my angle like this, i build up more weight. So now you can kind of see how that weight is going to build up and how it's going to get a little bit heavier. If i go more straight up parallel to the wall, the weight's not going to build up till up here, i want to build a little extra weight out in this haircut. So i'm going to come here out to my hand and now i'm going to start building up that weight line, and now i'm bringing this new section halfway over to that previous section, i got my line from underneath that i can see so now because of the Head shape, we start to get a movement horizontally within the weight. So take a look at this here. Everything came back straight back to me. I didn't cut it differently from an angle standpoint. Everything came straight back but because the head shape curves around over direction, changes you're working on a round. So if i pull this here, it's obviously only going this from this point to this point. But if i take this hair, it started to work its way around. The round of the head: now it's coming back to this point here, so it's going to sit longer all right. So back previously, back to the previous section, just a little bit of over direction back to the right, all right, you'll see a lot of different ways of cutting this on the internet. One of the ways that i've seen is that they just follow this line and cut it, and it becomes very heavy for me, i'm going to use the tri-razor and i'm going to take diagonal forward partings and i'm going to slide through it just glide through it. It'Ll, remove it'll, create softer lines, it'll do everything i want it to do all at the same time. So what i'm going to do is actually i'm going to work the weak side first, which is our part side, why? I call it the weak side because it's got less hair okay. So what i'm going to do is i'm going to draw a diagonal line and that line is going to follow the jawline. So what i want to do is i want to bring this hair back and then you've got your line that you created, so you could. If you need to take a guide, you can see that guide through it right now. I let that guide fall out, because i don't really care. I just need that little starting point and then i take my hundred percent cutting and i just softly work through it at about one inch pattern drawing this kind of forward line. So here we go again follow the jawline and look at the jaw here and that's what my parting's going to be now. This is where the beauty of the tri-razor comes in as we hold the hair here now. What am i going to do? I'M going to take this 25 texture and i'm going to go about mid-shaft to ends and i'm going to cut through it once that takes out 25 of the hair, then i go through with the 100 and i follow that guide. What that's doing is it's softening? This edge even more lets the hair kind of flow back, see how that's already becoming a cool. Looking haircut again same thing, and this gets a little bit weaker. So i don't need to do the 25 texture because you can see right here. The hairline goes up and over this is the weakest part of the hair right here in this triangle corner. So what i'm gon na do is i'm just going to play with that over direct everything back to me and swipe through with the 100 cutting all right. So again follow the jaw. Do a couple sections until we start to get to this round, then i'll start working that 25 texture now we're on the round. So we've crossed that parietal ridge area. So the hair is getting heavier and heavier as we go so and now i'm going to blow dry start the style. This is going to be asymmetrical at this point because obviously i'm over directing this all the way over. So it's coming from this point, so it's going to fall longer than this side, which i didn't over direct barely at all. So what i'll do is once i get the haircut blown dry smoothed out, then i'll start to go in and balance both sides and see where i'm at with my texture and everything. But for the most part we are we're getting close. You can see that kind of wedged up effect uh, but we're gon na get it blown dry. I'M gon na use paul mitchell sculpting foam for this style, so i go through here same thing with my iron work, so i've got the iron set at about 360. Actually, i'm going to turn that up 380. and i'm thinking like just adding a little curve to it. You