3 Ways To Cut A One Length Bob

Hey everyone Andrew Carruthers, here education, director for Sambia today, I want to talk to you about three important things. When cutting a one length, haircut, there's three options: when cutting the one length to either use our fingers to hold the section to use the comb to hold the section or possibly even brace, the hair against the skin to cut the section. All three are beneficial and you're going to really find that people are very polarized on which one they support at Sambia. We think there's a purpose for everything and we want to make sure that you have all the tools that you need to make the best decision. So, let's talk about the first option: first option is to be cutting in our fingers now when we're talking about a one length, what we want to try and do is cut hair at the lowest elevation possible at natural fall. So what happens when I put my fingers in? Am I at natural fall? No, I'm not! So when we put our fingers in the compromise that we take with a one length is, we add a touch of elevation to the hair. Now, in a certain situation like when I'm doing more of a texturized perimeter, that's not going to be a big deal because I'm going to be going in and maybe doing like a point cut technique. So when I'm cutting in the fingers a lot of times, I'm looking for actual softness to mirror with the elevation that I'm increasing in the finger. So, whenever we're cutting in fingers were also adding an element of tension to the hair and what tension does is it brings the hair out of its natural state so again between the elevation and the tension? If we're coming in and doing more of a point cut technique, when I release that tension, you can see that the hair pops up and goes back to its natural position, so the tension is also adding an element of softness to it. Now the downside is is when the hair goes back to natural position after you've cut. You may have some things that show up on the perimeter because of the shape of the natural hair line that you have to come back in and refine. That'S really easy to do, though, because you already have a nice established and what you can do is just come through and now just refine any of those hairs that are popping out from underneath your perimeter. So high tension a little bit of elevation from holding in fingers, it's going to give you a softer line. Another option is to come in and hold it in comb. Now, when cutting in comb, you can see, I have a lot less tension, I'm cutting in the wide teeth of the comb and, what's nice, is I'm using Sambia long, cutting comb here in an ivory color and you can see. I have a nice contrast to the dark hair, so this gives me a killer visual line to work from when I work this way and let's say I'm coming in and doing a little bit stronger, more blunt technique when I'm cutting, I allow the hair to retain More strength so again when we use the wide teeth of the comb to brace the hair, we have the least amount of elevation possible and we have very, very low tension. So we're going to create a very crisp, very solid line to our one length very different from using our fingers. The final option. I find very beneficial when I'm cutting very short bobs and that is actually taking the hair and pressing it in and down against the nape. Now I rarely do it with this large of a section, primarily I'm mainly doing it just with the first section along the hairline by taking and bracing with that finger. What I do is I create almost a slight undercut action to the line, so you get a very, very solid line, but what happens is because that outside hair is kind of being elevated, the opposite direction when it comes back into natural fall? What you have is a natural undercut to it, so it leaves a very clean crisp line, especially around really short hair lines that have a rabbet growth patterns and in fact, what I'll do a lot of times is. Even if I do the rest of the haircut in my fingers or even in comb, the final step in refinement is taking the hair pressing it against the nape again and seeing if anything, pops out around that bottom and I'll just remove that little bit of excess To create a really nice clean surface to my Bob's, so maximum tension with a little bit of elevation comes from cutting in fingers. No tension, no elevation comes from wide teeth of the comb and then to really help control erratic perimeters and create that just touch of undercut element. We'Re going to take the finger and brace against the skin practice. Those three different techniques on your next bob and see that the difference between each result that you see and if you have someone tell you there's only one way to do it. Go to the next class because I guarantee, if you're open, minded and you see all the different options, and you know how to utilize them you're going to be a better and stronger hairdresser. Thanks for watching guys, I'm Andrew Carruthers education, director for San Beda, you