Chic Short Bob Haircut Tutorial + Bonus Block Color Technique

All right so we're gon na base the entire haircut off of the very center of the crown. So I'm gon na take each of my partings diagonal across the parietal Ridge. Down to that recession. Point of the head: we're creating a nice triangle shape on the top based on that triangle shape. Then I'm gon na draw two more diagonal forward, partings down to behind the ear on each side to section off those triangles, so we're gon na work. This whole entire haircut off of triangular shapes now, I'm gon na take a parting straight down center, back dividing the back into two sections and comb. Each of those panels off to the side we're gon na be using our Mizutani blacksmith fit six and a half inch scissor. This is one of the very first Mizutani scissors I ever had and I really love the way that it cuts. It'S got. A nice solid feel to it in a very comfortable handle all right. So now we get those sections clipped away. We took diagonal forward sections along the occipital bone and I really wanted to line that diagonal section or diagonally up with the how I want the outer perimeter of the haircut to fall now more consider over comb. Key things on this is to make sure that you keep that steady blade along the ridge of the comb. This is my three three nine comb from Wayas Park, I'm just working that I like using the loose teeth when doing scissor over comb and working a lot of bulk out of the hair, so we're just going through there, the wider the teeth it allows the comb To really slide through the hair, then, when you go in, you want to work around the nape, you want to work in tighter places using the tighter teeth works, but this is just a good way to get that bulk out of there. So you'll see me go through and I just quickly cut the hair, not worrying too much about the precision part of it. Then I go through and I really start detailing it once I get the length where I want it now we're going to go through with our blow-dryer real, quick and just blow-dry this with the comb tension. So it allows the hair to lay the way that it should to make sure that our cut is exactly the way we wanted it to be. So I'm going through just detailing the outer edges and we're gon na start to build our graduation here. So everything's, coming straight back towards me: I'm cutting a even square back in the back of the head, so parallel with my shoulders as I'm cutting. So what gon na be happening is towards the inside of my finger. I'M actually building up quite a bit of weight because of the over direction and because we're rounding that corner and over directing it back at the same time. So we're building up a little bit of weight which is cool because it kind of aids. In the shape of the haircut at the very end which you'll see when we blow it dry, also, what it does is because we're doing the over direction. It'S pushing the angle towards the face already so because we're directing it back, it pushes weight to the front and length to the front. So it really starts that outer perimeter line that we were talking about at the beginning. So now I'm gon na work that diagonal forward parting all the way through we're gon na start continuing into the side of the head. At this point and building in the outer perimeter line that we want to kind of follow above the jawbone but diagonal towards right about the the corner of the mouth. Key points on this part of the haircut is to make sure that you keep that elevation low. The higher you go with the elevation, the more broken the outer perimeter is gon na be of the haircut, so you won't get that solid line. That you're, looking for the other thing, is you'll, see that I separated the front in the back right here, and that was because naturally, the hair wanted to fall from the crown wanted to fall a little bit more backwards. So you have to be careful when, whenever you're taking your sections down, you want to see how the hair is gon na fall. Naturally, don't try to pull it too far from where it's gon na fall, naturally, otherwise you won't get those nice perimeter lines either. So, just working through that's the end result of that side. We'Re gon na do the exact same thing on the right side. Working through taking my guide from my previously caught side. You can see that I sectioned away a little bit of the eye section away. The top of the left side just so I could grab a little piece of that to start my guideline now, working diagonal forward through about half inch sections not trying to take too much in my hand. I want to see a clean guide. I don't want to pull too much hair down, even though I am cutting a stationary guide in the back so working through. You can see that angle and how it starts to unfold. I think this is a really good view of that now, so the over direction plays a key role in pushing that weight and length forward to behind the ear, and that gives us a good point to continue on when we get to the side of the head. So keeping that over direction back working through the back of the head, so you can see how it kind of flows. It starts a little bit shorter in the center and that weight grows towards behind the ear. That has everything to do with the over direction that we just did so now, I'm watching my finger angle, my fingers are basically pointing at the corner of the mouth. That'S where I want that line to go, and I want this to be nice and solid. So again, not lifting it not trying to elevate it too much because that'll break up the line, it will add too much layering to the side of the head and that's not what we're going for. So we got that finished up. I did another blow-dry with the comb, just like I did on the back part. I really want to see this haircut shape happening as I'm doing it. So I'll do the blow-dry after I finish each section so we're going through the top. I find the point where the head starts to curve forward, because what we're gon na do is we're gon na cut that entire section, I'm leaving out nice and short a short bang kind of choppy fringe and in the top we're gon na cut short to long. So shortest point in the back longest point towards the bang area, because I want those long layered pieces to fall over the shorter bang and that's what's gon na give it. That kind of modern feel that you're seeing now alright, so we're gon na go through and we're gon na blow dry, the bangs to prep them for the the cut so we're gon na go through using a comb. So we get as much tension as possible and now you can see the motion I'm gon na make with the scissor I'm gon na use that steady blade along the skin working at about a 45 degree angle, to create as much choppiness to the bangs as possible And this is really all just by looking at it with your eye. It'S, however, you want this to look, but you want to go nice and short with the bangs, because then that top layer that we cut earlier will fall over it and that's what really completes the look. So one thing I'm going to do here is I separate the temple area just so that I don't go too far. This is more of a safety thing for me just to make sure that, as I'm cutting into the fringe, I'm only working on the specific area that I want to so continuing through chopping them up as much as I want to. This is again all personal preference. So just decide how much you want to cut and the great thing is: I'm sure we all have a mannequin that has a lot of bangs on it. So we can go through and you guys can practice it, because these bangs are really short. So it's a pretty easy technique to find something to work on all right. So now we're gon na start off our color technique. Big difference between when I do haircutting and when I do hair color is the color sectioning is gon na, be a little bit looser. A little more free so as I go through, I'm taking a large horseshoe section around underneath the parietal Ridge underneath the low crown and just working the depth, and so the color I chose for the bottom is a level five ash dem. I color my goal with that was to add depth to the haircut so now I'm gon na go through I'm gon na section out the bang area and just start painting that level five again all the way through it. I wanted to keep that depth in the fringe, because what I wanted you to see is in the end result. I want you to see that separation from the longer layers on top and the darker kind of choppier fringe on the bottom, so just adding that depth to the underneath. So now we're going through. You could call this balayage. You can call whatever you want. I'M painting brightness to the ends I'm using Sun lights and 40 volume. So it's a balayage Lightner and just going through brightening up the ends, leaving a little bit of depth in the middle and then once that process is I'm gon na go through and overlay it with a different color. So I'm not really so worried about the application of this because I just want it to brighten it up. Obviously I don't want any bleed marks or hot spots or anything like that, so you want to keep that saturation on there, but really the goal of this is to overlay it with another tone afterward. Now I let that process for 35 minutes all right now, so we're gon na blow it dry. You can see the depth underneath from that smoky level-5 and then the pre lightened top the pre lightened top is pretty much a red-orange. So what i'm gon na do is go through with a joy, koh, peacock, green color and that's gon na almost neutralize it a little bit. You'Ll still have some of the green tone left over, but I really was going for more of a grungy feel because we had that really choppy PC short bang. So we let that sit for 20 minutes now we're gon na blow. It drive for the final time and hair like this is definitely a little extra effort. So a lot of people try to do things in 1:1 process, but it's much better to go through and do everything the right way. So you can see that kind of smokiness, but also the green tone to it. I personally like it, you could have went with something like a pink or whatever you wanted throughout the color. You could have left the lightener on a little bit longer. You could have worked on a human and maybe gotten a little bit more lift, but I really kind of dig that smokiness to it so now I've got it ironed out, use my viber straight iron and I'm gon na go through with a shorter scissor. I'M using my 5.7 inch DB 20 scissor to work the edges of the haircut so going through. Like I say in pretty much, every video, the edges of the haircut are not perfect lines when you cut them wet, you cut them, wet to get the structure in there and the weight control, and then you go through dry and you perfect the line. So I'm just going through using that tip of the scissor I'll go back and forth probably 20 times. I won't show you every single one of those times and just go through and perfect that line until it's exactly the way I want it now same thing with the fringe. I'Ve got a blown dry again, so I'm gon na go through with my scissor and chop. It up creating almost like a teeth, look into it going very deep and then you can see that top layer falling over it. It'S just got such a cool look. So now I'm going to go through do some point cutting on the top layer, especially on that heavier point, because we cut short too long. So the crown is the shortest point. What you can see there, then it gets longer towards the front. So just elevating it! Nice and high point cutting the very tip of that section just to lighten it up now, we're gon na go through with a little tease, cutting half open half closed. You can find more videos on that technique on just hit the search bar and our youtube channel, and you can find it. What I'm doing is grabbing the entire section, cutting that in half, so that I'm not cutting the layers around her face shorter. Just the layers on top, then I go through one final. Little flat wrap with the blow-dried just gets all those loose hairs out and I grabbed the Brocato carve, which we all know is my favorite product for adding piscina sand. Texture and I go through and add to the ends of the haircut pinching around the fringe, just to add a little more separation and then letting that top layer fall over. It'S just such a cool look. I hope you guys can use it. Let me know in the comments below what you think thanks guys: