How To Cut A Layered Bob Haircut Tutorial

Hi hand-raise hi everyone, jorts carpe, see here co-founder of the harebrained community and crafts hairdresser coming to you live from the Wella studio in Calabasas with one of my most important mentors. I say it all the time I wouldn't be where I am today in my career. If it wasn't for this man, mr. Steven moody, one of the best presenters best educators, learned all the tricks of the trade from him over the years, and it's such an honor and a pleasure to have had this platform for him to share his craft with you. It'S called triple crafts and I'm going to talk a lot about that. It'S going to talk about the kind he was working with Victoria, Thurmond Hall, who's working on the color and Stephens going to school. You guys had a lot of incredible things. So without further ado. Mr. Steven moody yeah and thank you, everybody Thank You. Gerard, like you Kelly and thank you everybody at her brain for tuning in on Facebook tonight. I'M super excited to be sharing with you over the next set of hour or so, and we're going to do a really cool transformation. Triple crafts is all about bringing together cut color finish in the form of a transformation, and underneath is my beautiful, beautiful model Alisa from Russia With Love and we're going to show you some looks at how she's looked before we started: coloring a hair, cutting a hair. So before we go any further, I'm going to get right into doing my hair cut. As you can see, I've done a little bit of pre cutting already her hair was down to her elbows when we got started, and I'm kind of going through a kind of medium length through here, but very, very heavily layered and very textured, and I'm going to Be cutting the inside in the layers here quite short and textured and layered, and most important. I'M gon na give her a really really solid fringe, a really heavy bang. So quite a European Parisian, long, inner eyes type of bang. I think he's really cool and on trend at the moment, so without any further ado. I would like to get right into doing this, so I'm starting on top of the head and I'm starting with a section right, the way through from front to back and I'm taking that to the ceiling. Let me just turn around, so you can get that against the white background Kelly and I'm gon na go from slightly shorter into longer through here. So I do keep a little bit of length in the from Steven question. How do you decide the length here for the guideline that you're creating I'm deciding this length this guideline here purely by cutting it letting it go, lightning fall, moving the hair around and taking a look so purely visual. At this point, it's like no things anything else. Yeah, I don't have a guideline at the moment. What I'm really looking to do is a little bit of a cannabis skin, ed sort of 1970s haircut. It'S a little bit long on the edges but shorter, more layered on the interior, so yeah a little bit more sort of shaggy and Chelsea or yeah the really size that mousse thermal art didn't we there you go so again: sort of pulling to the ceiling here And shorter through to longer - and at some point Gerard, I'm gon na do a dead stop here. So what that means is I'm literally gon na have a shorter interior shape, with a longer sort of, as you said, Chelsea length on the outside Steven. Let me welcome. We have a lot of viewers just joining us hi guys welcome to HB live it's a pleasure tonight to have one of my most important mentors in my career, the person who really got me into the world of Education. Mr. Steven moody he's sharing his technique and his kind of whole concept for education called triple crafts and will get to talk about what that means early, but right now he's starting off on his cut I'd love to take your questions, and I have a question through Right away from Nancy Falconer, she's wondering why cut draw instead of wet great question, hi Nancy and thanks for joining us and a great question. Ordinarily, I don't cut dry hair, I cut hair wet and I kind of work it towards dry and then I blow dry. There and then I kind of refine it towards the end, but in this kind of format, where we're working live, Facebook live really. The excitement is very much with cutting hair, so I've taken the luxury of drying, hair first and cutting it dry. I could go in both directions. To be honest, so I'm gon na jump over here and run right into her fringe. So right through the front, I'm taking one section here and just letting that rest on my scissors through here and cutting quite a heavy, bold sort of fringe through there and I'm gon na go fairly wide here, Girard, which I cannot really like. So this is really something very of the moment. This kind of deep, open kind of heavy heavy fringe, yeah what'd, you say yeah. I think it is, and I also think it's it suits a lot of winning, because basically what I'm gon na do here. I thought right through here Girard I'm gon na pop her cheekbones. So I'm gon na really widen this fringe here. So we've got quite a graphic and kind of fringe here that just opens her cheekbone area off, and some of you have seen me do this before on triple crafts or uncut crafts. I'M gon na do a little trick here and, if you guys blink at home, you're gon na miss this. So watch very carefully hear how my scissors sneak underneath the long hair Kathy Zeca is wondering if you're using your comb like a guide. I am Kathy. Well done good observation, so I'm kind of pop my scissors are parallel to the actual that the haircut my scissors yeah for sure and maybe Hartley is wondering about the color good news. We'Ve got Victoria here, she's going to talk about the color she's, even going to demonstrate a little bit of how she applied it. So if you guys are interested in this beautiful color and it is in major transformation that happens here - we're gon na get to see some before pictures the quality of the air and then talk about the process to get it to this level. And it's not a big part of your whole triple craft. The combination of cotton, color and styling Steven well Gerard at the moment, as we know, we're kind of living in an industry - that's very, very color dominated, and I think that's great. I think we're all so dominated in a lens, that's kind of elbows and up or elbows and longer in some instances, and I think, to one degree or other that that length and that concept is kind of them, starting to fade away in favor of a little Bit more crafted hair and, most importantly of all, what we really believe on Weller is: we want to really bring together the craft of coloring hair. The craft is cutting hair and the craft of styling hair all together, so they all kind of speak to each other and one of the main reasons we want to do. That is it's it's on trend and it's a great movement, but I think the other reason Gerard. It makes financial sense because, as we know, you know with a lot of the colors that have been going on recently in the last sort of four or five years and a lot of the haircuts that kind of center, partings and label elbow lens. People are cutting their own hair yeah people are coming to get a trim once every 12 months and very grown out colors that they can go over the colors that paint in their own, their own colors on their own hair, and what we've got to be careful Of I think, there's an industry that we don't really sort of shoot ourselves in the foot so that I think this is a great opportunity to introduce a really amazing amazing, colorist she's, located here at the well a studio in Calabasas. She travels all over the world and delivers amazing color education. Please welcome i'm victoria Thurman wall hi everybody I for me when it comes to working with Steven. We have to work together, big time to make sure that we have the communication piece of combining the three different crafts. So when Steven said that he wanted to do Elise's hair, I said how much were you cutting off for my color and his answer was a lot. So I said: okay, fine, she's, a she's good to roll and so I'll be talking about the hair color. I actually have a video if, afterwards, you want to go check it out, a Vth underscore master colorist on instagram, and I did a strand test on her hair. I used a one to one ratio with blonde or multi blonde powder, and just ten volume for ten minutes and you'll see the video in just a few minutes yourself. We'Re gon na show it, but her hair started becoming bubblegum immediately. So that said Steven this is how much you have to cut, because otherwise I won't be able - and I think that's you know whether you work in a salon and you do your own cuts and colors, or you have the great lecture that I have of working Alongside an amazing colorist, I think it's super super important that we really think about what's the integrity of the hair and what can the hair do and where is the hair gon na look its best and that's really not a color conversation? It'S not a cutting conversation. It'S not a styling conversation, it's really kind of a trifecta of all of them, not viously layer. On top of that who is the person you know? Who is this person that's sitting in the chair? What'S her lifestyle, you know what is it that she's interested? In? Does she spend ten minutes on her hair every day? What does she spend four hours? You know on her hair every day, so I think that this whole conversation is a melding together. If you will of you know lots of different things so Steven it obviously you've moved into the layering here. Could you kind of break down a little bit what's happening technically yeah, what I'm doing layering wise here, I'm cutting triangular layers. So what that means is, as I'm going over ahead, I'm really pushing away from her chin and the angle that I'm cutting through here is kind of rounding over this way, and then it's going into longer towards the front and what that does Gerard. It really something maintains this corner right through here. It'S important that I keep this sort of corner in the front that we're gon na kind of style around a little bit later, so a triangular outline with triangular layers yeah exactly so, my my outline shape is based on a triangular line or triangular bob. It'S short at the back and it is longer at the front and that's mirrored, as you just pointed out, Gerard it's mirrored by these triangular layers. Now here I'm really pushing away from here it's important when I'm cutting these layers that I'm really quite expressive with my over direction, and that maintains this front corner here. If I don't do that, I can cut a lot of the weight and length away and again Stephen, you know: how do you establish the length for the guideline here because, obviously, to lay too many layers and not enough layers can really disrupt the shape like this? So how did you choose that guideline? Well, it started down here Giraud. It started with my existing length, which I've already graduated. I only already elevated that and I'm picking that piece up and bringing it up and over and to be quite honest with you, I'm not sure I'll push this too far into the middle or I'll push it too far away from her chin, and it will be A bit too heavy because I can always go back and pick it up again, but you can put it back on, but I can't haven't figured out yet how to extensions is the only way to do yeah yeah, so lots of our friends are watching ariana merino Wean Woodruff was here: let's see Brandon de Silva Antonio Quin, Terry, hey, how you doing man it's great to have you guys here again, I'm super excited and proud to be here at the well a studio in Calabasas with one of my mentors. Mr. Steven moody was the first person that brought me into the world of Education and encouraged me to become a teacher and, as I always say, it's why I am where I am today. So, a lot that you guys can learn about presentation, skills being an incredible hairdresser and just really being an epitome of of a craft hairdresser. Mr. Steven moody he's joined today by Victoria Thurman hall, this beautiful color and she's got some color tips and Steven. Just let us know when you want Victoria to jump in and we're going to show you guys some of the color placement that was done here on the on Alice élisa élisa. I think now's a great time actually, while I'm finishing off these. Ladies and before I get to the fringe, on the other side, I think now will be a great time. We'Ve got an absolute killer before video and a killer during video will it'll really shock you guys. So please pay attention to this. Don'T don't two nouns! Well! It started off with a conversation from the standpoint I knew we were gon na be having a heavy fringe. I knew we were gon na have longer pieces and I move it back. It was going to be extremely late, so my technique, if you guys follow me on over here, really started with that conversation, so I've got a doll prepared. That is the pre-cut to what Steven and I did. Similarly, I have a PI section here that I knew would be falling into that fringe area. Elise'S hair is very, very fine and when it comes to coloring, the first thing I did was that strand test. I knew I couldn't cut the hair anyway and tell that hair whisk off of it, so coloring hair for Steven to cut like just let me tell you is really hard to make it look beautiful as he cuts it off I'm over here doing oh my gosh, But anyways it's gone now when it comes to the technique. I actually started in the heavy areas, because I knew eventually that this area needed to be soft. I reserved my heavy and more foil work up top. Let me show you what I used so one of my favorite things is a Wyeth spark teasing comb and I used it to actually come in and do my technique through the side, because ELISA has very fine, hair and low density in the front I needed to Have weight so I didn't take all of my color to the very front, so I left her some of the weight and remain and that remained dark. If I taken all of this hair light, it would look too bright and look thin, so I came in and took about to this starting area pinned that back and with my wife's part, teeth and comb. I came in and created a section and they just kind of flecked it up and pushed it in the more I do that the darker the hair. So I left some of the first areas more pushed and, as I went back les pushed and it doesn't disrupt the hair by using the comb. It actually makes it to where it comes back. But then, when I need it to come forward again when I'm done and I'm shampooing it comes out, super super easy. So I'm just gon na show you I did that technique and they came in with foil work and painted these and w's going back through these sections to get it for just joining us. We'Re here with Victoria Penhall she's, showing us the way that she applied the color on Stephens model she pre, colored and they've, been kind of showing the whole essence of triple crafts and working together. So if you have any questions about the formulas or the application, let us know Victoria can jump in and answer them at any time. Yeah Minnie was wondering what the color formula was that you used because Elise's hair was so delicate. I decided to go with color. That'S gon na help me in the long run, so I used our later magma and I used magma stroke, three six, primarily primarily but a little bit of copper and then a little bit of a pinky tone. So that's at the foundation because my inspiration was actually the nail polish that we picked and that is aurora borealis from OPI. What I wanted was kind of a berry feel to her hair, and that's where I started with my foil work and my balayage in a foil, doing it to where I would have the this foundation to be able to put an overlay on to make it more. Very thank you for asking that question and Victoria. Maybe would you mind later? Maybe writing the formulas in or we can take a picture. I know you have them on the screen. We can take a picture and we'll put them in the feed. Actually, you don't have to do a lot of typing again absolutely in this area. Here I did your traditional foils, so this white shape a moon shape that came through. Remember I needed to stay away from the back of the head, because the amount of layering that he was going to do. I did not want to come all the way back to the traditional foils using the magma formulation. Now make sure you guys see and then once that was done, we shampooed went through and did the magma seal, and that was on for five minutes and then I dried the hair and then went through with color fresh, create. Now, if color fresh, create it's a semi permanent hair, color perfect for her texture, and it gives lots and lots of shine which would show up really well for you guys watching the video and will make sure that you have the formula. But I use new to speak, hyper, coral and a little bit of pure violet to get the look that you see today. So even if he's got more cutting so guys, the Victoria was just talking about all this beautiful color that she created. So that was the technique. That was a formula if you're just joining us. Mr. Steven moody is over here doing this transformation on his beautiful model. She had super long hair. It was colored and now Stevens taken care of putting in a beautiful shade. So again, any questions for Conor caller we'd love to hear them. There was a question that Kelly pointed out. I don't remember who that was from Kelly about it was from Annika or Steven when you're layering. How do you? How do you avoid kind of a staggering effect on the front of the hairline when you're layering? So how do you, I guess, keep that corner Solow around the front. I think the answer to that question Gerard, I think it's kind of over directing the hair away from the edges. It'S kind of pulling the layers up and away from the actual length, and then I guess also creating more of a triangular cutting line triangular, not rounding. It through or even swearing Israel. What was? We have a question for Victoria. What was the base of the color before you foiled? What was her yeah? We'Ve got some of this pre pre work here on a PowerPoint beforehand. She had a medium brown, so a level 4 and underneath this had tons and tons of work and all that this area was really broken. And when I look at from the standpoint of aneesa's hair all of this link, although colored and feeling natural, it wasn't actually natural at all. So underneath this, she even blonde super blonde, and that's so super hollowed out hair that you had to really kind of work. On a lot: well, if you want to get look at cuz it, she does a little turn there. So maybe we could get a turn, then we'll see the turn of where you're at right. Now big transformation happening here there you go Wow spaghetti for sure. So what what exactly was the Shran test and my strata test is the same because it's like blood work right. I want to be able to know - and it was a one-to-one ratio using launder multi-plug powder 10 volume for just 10 minutes and that's what happened to her hair good question so the way to resolve that is, make sure you're getting a good haircut. Well, it's funny because Stephen always talks about what is it my best tool and the first thing out of my mouth is a pair of scissors yeah. I need good quality hair to do good, hair color and if I don't have good hair, there's no sense of even starting to do cuts. Absolutely. Thank You. Victoria. Ok! Coming back into the money shot here, you looks like you're working on the second side of the fringe. Yeah walk us through this technique. Lots of people have just joined us, yeah hi everybody. So this is my lovely model ELISA and we can see. There'S the before of ELISA has very different and a little bit fatigued, and what we're doing here is quite a layered shag type of look that has got quite a short interior. I think Gerard used coined the phrase Chelsea kind of haircut so mean that one Steven, I think it's been around for a while I'll, take you for today. I'Ll take you today. Thank you. I think, and I'm cutting a really sort of European heavy sort of fringe through here that many of you seen me do before and if anything, it's quite square in shape, which I like, because it kind of pops her cheekbones when you do that, it's quite commercial. Looking and I think another great reason to do these kinds of fringes, is it drives people back to Salam's and needs maintenance? Doesn'T it so in two three weeks: it's in their eyes, it's bugging her. She comes back to the salon and now we're talking yeah. When we talk about business the more times we can get a claim no over the years, especially the past five years or so the average appointment time has been really stretching out reflecting fashion, which has been distressed and grown out collar. So it's a great point that you bring up there Steven. Even you know, giving someone even a more traditional banging someone with long hair and layers that maybe only comes in twice a year if they have some kind of a bang or fringe. Maybe they'll come in four times a year because they know it needs to be done.