Turning A Graduated Bob Into A Layered Bob Tutorial

I guess we're gon na start off this haircut by taking a right-hand side parting down to mid crown and then a cross mid crown and down the parietal Ridge. What this is gon na do is give me a little bit of an offset kind of a symmetrical rectangle on the top of the head. Then I go straight down Center back and separate. The two sides clip it away, and now I'm gon na work diagonal forward. Partings and start my cutting, so I want to work with the head shape here. The whole point of that is, I'm collapsing the shape so we're creating more of a layered Bob. This is from a previous haircut where we did a complete horizontal graduated Bob. Now we're switching it to a vertical diagonal forward, layered Bob, which is going to take out a lot of the weight in the haircut so depending on how your guest wants to wear their hair. There'S two different options for you. So, just working bringing everything straight back to the previous section, so I'm working my way across the back, just bringing it back slightly about an inch back to the previous parting. To make my cut now, I work vertically, so I shift from diagonal forward to vertical when I get to right behind the ear, and I work that all the way back, bringing everything straight back to a stationary guide at this point, what this is going to do Is push a ton of weight to the front? So that's something that we're gon na address later in the haircut, but just keep that in mind when you're over directing something all the way back to a stationary guide. You'Re gon na have a lot of weight as the end result when the hair falls forward so working diagonal forward. Still this, the big switch here is that my fingers are now pointing down. On the other side, my fingers were pointing up. The reason for that is. It allows me to comb my new hair towards the middle of the head towards the guide you never we talked about this over and over again. You never want to comb the guide to the new hair, because that shifts the guide from where it lives and if you do that, you're making the guide shorter, which is gon na, make one side of your hair cut shorter. So, to keep consistent, you need to comb the hair the same exact way on both sides of the head, so working vertically. Another key thing to look at is how the head shape curves up around the crown. That'S obviously going to give us our graduated point, so we we're layering the hair past the occipital bone to low crown, and then, when we get to the mid crown part, you can see that the elevation of the hair is actually more at a zero degree angle. So that's gon na give us our weight line there, bring in everything straight back, pushing that weight forward, just keeping nice clean sections, I'm using the fine teeth of the comb. That'S helping keep more tension on the hair and that's pretty much it. It'S a pretty simple, structured haircut, and I think this is a very common haircut that you'll see people doing in the salon. The big thing that I want to go over in a little bit is how we can kind of make adjustments to that to make it have a more modern feel so we're gon na go through the back. We'Re gon na work diagonal back through the crown area. What I want to do is take and just blend in the crown to the bottom more around the occipital high occipital bone area, so I'll take my guide from top of the occipital bone just and then just follow it straight up, so keeping that weight line in There but just blending it a bit everything's being over directed back to that one point, so you can see that there's a slight bit of over direction coming away from me, which is going to push that kind of weight around the corner, and it's going to be A little bit longer right behind the ear which I like that feeling so everything's going to come back to that guide is going to be stationary there. So you can see in the bottom left diagram how I kind of angle, the haircut so we're cutting short to long, just keeping a little bit of extra length in there. You comb everything back until you run out of hair and then you're good to go. Alright guys so we're gon na start off on our dry cutting portion of the haircut I'm going through with my vibra straight iron, just polishing out the ends of the haircut. What this is doing is allowing me to see where the weight seems heavy and where we need to go in and just lighten it up a little bit, so I'm gon na take a horizontal section throughout the side. I already noticed that this side is heavy. The sides are going to be heavy because we over directed everything back to a stationary guide. So now I want to go through and diffuse the weight, so I go through horizontal elevate, the hair as high as I possibly can, and just work using a Mizutani puffin dry cutting scissor. I love this scissor. It'S a five and a half inch blade. It goes in nice and deep into the section and just diffuses any weight. That'S build up that I don't want so going through horizontally in the back as well doing the same thing, elevating it nice and high not trying to take or create a line. At this point, just diffusing some of the weights, so what I'll do is I'll? Take that section I'll actually look in there and see where the density seems heaviest and then, if I see a really dense spot, that's where I'll do most of my point cutting. So I'm not going through there evenly and cutting I'm going through there and actually visually looking to see where it's really heavy so right there. You can see that part's heavy, so I'm going to go through and diffuse that a little bit same thing on the top work. That line out a little bit go a little bit deeper, just removing that weight. Creating that texture and a lot of movement and modernizing the haircut so same thing here going through you can see how the ends you can see light through there and then, as it gets a little bit deeper. There'S it's more dense, so you're just going in there and polishing and removing that now we're going to do the same thing, but we're gon na actually cut a line, but a nice broken line, because I want to create a more side angled fringe in the front. Nothing crazy, I'm not trying to create a short bang in the haircut, but just something softly lays across her cheekbone. So working a diagonal forward section over directing it to myself to a stationary guide. But the guide is is really diffused because we're doing some deep point. Cutting they're now going through slide cutting using the same scissor. This is a good look at the Mizutani puffin, just going through gliding through the hair. The reason a dry cutting scissor is so good is because the blade is so thick that it has a ton of power when you go in to cut hair, so it can get through pretty much anything and that's what makes it a great dry cutting scissor. So I'm just going through, you can see how I push the top away and then I slide cut and then I pull the top back around. That'S because I wanted to almost disconnect the underneath. You don't have to go through and slide cut the entire side of the head. What you want to do is go in and just diffuse. The bottom then push the top over and it makes it look nice and soft. Then I'll, go through a little tease. Cutting connect, it all together same thing on the opposite side, just going through slide, cutting just to break up and add that texture into the haircut I'm always going through and working with my hands. When I move it with my hands, it just allows me to see kind of how it's gon na fall and how that texture is gon na move within the haircut. The last thing I'm going to do. I got my Mizutani type Z, dual texture scissor, so both sides have teeth and I just go through and glide into the back portion, just to add again more texture and movement, and then I always blow out the hair to get all those loose hairs out of It and to kind of bring life back into the haircut. That'S how it's, how I see it so we're going through I've got the ergo paddle brush working through it, and then I just finish it with a little bit of hairspray and she is good to go. So I hope you guys like this haircut. If you do, let me know in the comments. Let me know what you want to see next and thanks for watching