Bob Haircut - How To Cut A Graduated Bob With A Side Bang Similar To Kelly Ripa'S New Haircut

Hey guys, this is Matt BEC from gratitude education and today what I'm going to be doing is a balanced Bob. The balanced part is going to be that the shape around the front in the are the sides in the back are going to be very balanced. So all the layering and everything is going to fall very symmetrical and very polished and then the top we're going to go in and have a little bit of fun with so we're going to start off by taking a centre-back section. Pour that down so we'll break that into two, then we're going to go from the occipital bone down to right behind the ear slight diagonal forward section to start the haircut, so you can see out right now, I'm taking it in my fingers. You could cut this along the neck. If you wanted to you know it's personal preference. Sometimes I do sometimes I don't with this haircut. I like to have just a slight bit of elevation right here, so I'm gon na fingers width from fingers, width section then we're going to pull down. Everything is square in the back, so that'll be kind of our balanced feel so we're going to square it off straight line in the back. So once we get to that corner near the clip that you can see there, that's going to be over directed slightly back to create that corner. Then, when I go in because I held in my fingers, I would have a slight bit of hair kind of a slight bit of graduation to there. I just go in and clean that line up, so any stragglers that I see then I can start building my graduation from there. So everything with this haircut zero degrees. So you will see a slight elevation. Some of you may look at this as a 45 degree because I'm elevating it, but I'm looking at the head, shape, that's something that you know. I preach a lot because the head shape changes, so you really got ta. Look your angles based on the head shape. So with this haircut, it's not 45 degrees because, as your head starts to move away, I need to elevate the hair to keep it nice and light, but still keep it at that zero degree angle. Just moving up the head working with horizontal sections, I like, when I'm creating a bob type haircut to work horizontally, you can work vertically, which we're going to in a minute but to get a strong base and to keep the shape very strong. I like to personally use horizontal sections, some folding more of the shape in my hand and the elevation you know I can keep pretty consistent still holding it horizontally, so you'll see my hands slightly drop on, as I work my way over again this just because the Head shape is changing so as the head shape changes, I want to keep it still at a zero degree. Angle so drop my hand just a little bit another horizontal section, everything, nice and clean, and when you practice haircuts like this, it's really just the most important thing is how you call them hi section and how you get the hair up out of the way. Really because the hair that you're cutting the cutting part is easy, it's really difficult to comb. Well, so just really work on your combing, your sectioning, and how professional you look as a stylist on your doing working through cutting palm to Palm now, you're gon na see me kind of shift, but so we cut palm to palm horizontally all the way up. Until this point now, I'm going to comb the hair down, I'm gon na start working vertically and the reason I'm going to do. That is because, as I'm working on that round of the head, I want to start layering now and vertically. I can work more with my weight control, so I'm going to take out a little extra weight, so I can work vertically and get a more consistent weight. Removal on the circle so now we're going to start layering using the shape of the head. So pretty easy to follow so you'll see when you shift up as the head starts to move they're just more and more elevation. Nice soft fall to the haircut thing I like about this. Is it keeps it nice and balanced but and everything's getting over directed back? So we're keeping a little bit of that square feel we will round it slightly in the corner. But the thing I like about it most as we created that really strong base on this haircut and now we're going to put a nice light kind of rooftop feel to it. So I don't want to have that heavy bob line that you'll see in a lot of air cuts. It'S too much graduation because the head starts to peel away and we don't change our elevation in the haircut. So you'll see here. Changing the elevation move into a layering technique. It cuts it nights so keeping the square so everything's straight back in the haircut. What this is going to do is allow more weight to push behind the ear we're gon na mess up that weight later, but haircutting is really thinking about your next move. It'S almost like playing chess in a way. So where are you holding the hair and where is it going to push the weight? So then later you have that way to work with so right now I just pushed a bunch of weight. You'Ll see a little slight disconnection kind of see that slight disconnection underneath yet right there. So that's something we can mess with later. That'S not going to stay like that, because this is going to be a really solid line on the bottom, but it pushed more weight behind the ear that we can work with. We do the same thing on the opposite side, so section finger way, just cutting a nice square line, I'm using a wire comb. I really like these combs because they have just kind of a tooth in the front of the comb, so it allows that real, clean, easy section in there. So that's why I chose that again. Watch the head shape, keeping the elevation out of zero degree angle and then, as the head starts, to drop down. So at the beginning of this section where the occipital bone is and where that point is in the in the triangle section. That'S definitely a different shape than right behind the ear. So as we get to behind the ear, we're definitely going to drop our elevation down to keep a zero degree angle and to keep the weight. That'S really the important thing I held everything up at the same elevation throughout then the weight would be so much lighter behind the ear, and you don't want that because you actually lose hair behind the ear so being able to maintain that weight as you work through The hair cuts really important. You'Ll see me comb the hair over and over again and know it's important to get consistent, combing and if you think about that, guess that you've had where you had to chase her up to the front. Because you missed that one little piece of hair. And it's just hanging there randomly or they told you about it when they came back in that they had to cut it. You know it's just it's really important to stay professional and really clean through each haircut and the better you comb, the hair, cut the more consistent it's going to be. You know I strive every day to get a more and more perfect haircut, I'll, never get the perfect haircut probably, but you know every day you just work to get better at it. So you, you know, you watch videos like this, because you just take little tips and tricks. So combing to me is the most important part of a haircut yeah. I'M dropping that elevation elevation is different at this point than it was towards the middle of that. Now. We'Re going to move into our vertical sessions so working on the base, keeping a strong shape the beginning of this, and now we're in elevate and remove weight and soften that line. That'S going to happen and build up on this putter here you see I'm kind of shifting things around, probably didn't see the guide there, I'm assuming so just combing and working through you don't find your guide, don't cut and that's you know it's really important to to Make sure that you keep up with the guide and follow through with that we're still working vertical sections everything's coming straight back from where it lives so we're not over directing. I think it's important, especially in the balance when we call this a balance Bob, you know, keeping the shape balanced, so we're not over directing weight and pushing it anywhere, just bring it straight out from where it lives and cutting it nice and square and see I'm Working through with one one scissor blade moving the reason for that is, scissors really developed to only have one blade moving, so it's going to cut the hair the best and, as you'll see we kind of pushed through it quite a few times. It'S not like. I'M just going in one swipe and cutting, because the tip of the scissor is going to cut a more perfect line. So you'll see it quite a few different times throughout this haircut that just that tip of the scissor comes through and works its way up. The hairs the section and cuts it just using the tip a little bit at a time. One thing to focus on right at this point is: you can see, I'm not grabbing a bunch of Hera once and I'm not just grabbing random hair. So if you watch hairdressers around you mean you might see just pulling up about a big wad of hair into a section and cutting it and layering it or whatever. But you got to keep it organized. If you don't keep the hair organized, then you're gon na lose your place and some hair. Just so don't even ever have a place. They just keep cutting and removing wait and go by the eye, which is great. The problem is you're not benefiting the guest on when you do that, because they're not gon na be able to recreate this haircut. This is drea we're cutting this haircut or not. I work with her. She works at the salon, so I saw her come in to the salon. We cut this hair actually yesterday her voiceover in today, but she walked in the salon, say, and the haircut looked great and you know it's not because she's a hairdresser and she can style. It'S because it's cut precise, so it falls the way that it should. So I want to get back to this point right here. You can see I'm cutting with the pointed scissor put that weight that we left on before, where I told you we're pushing extra weight behind the ear. Now we're going to go through and cut that into a straight line and what you can see there is how solid this line gets, and this is a coolest part about this haircut. Is we over direct it, so it pushed extra weight behind the ear, and now we can cut that into a straight line, preserving the weight behind the ear, but still getting that straight line out. So is it pretty cool point right now, just really following? I want to go slightly below her cheekbone for the end result of this haircut, so just kind of following that line. We do a little tap above the ear, seeing this quite a few times. Other hairdressers do that just gives it a little freedom, so the hair. That'S falling over here doesn't get in the way and it doesn't screw up the line in the haircut now we're going to work diagonal back, but still directly straight out from the head so we'll round this shape a little bit kind of open it off of her Face and still layering and the key point here is - I want to start working. This is going to be her heavy side, so she's going to have a really deep parting, which you can see on her left hand side. So we're going to be working from the weighted side, so I want to remove a really nice amount of weight from this side. So that's where I'm starting, so I want to start. This is going to be to me the interior of the haircut, so the inside of the haircut. I want to take all the way out of it. So nice 90-degree elevation on the hair, remove as much weight as possible using that bottom piece. The very bottom base line as my guide and just going through and removing all that excess weight and then that top panel is a bit sectioned away, will fall over top of it and it'll be nice and light not grabbing a lot of hair. Making sure that these nice clean sections - and I follow that guideline - high-elevation keeping 90 degrees, I'm just gon na work back to behind the ear, so not not going all the way back through the head. Just that warm section that I had and then stop. That'S a bit so we've now removed a weight from underneath there now we're going to let the top down and we're going to work over directing. So this can be the first part of the haircut where we're really over directing the hair still going to cut it. In an open kind of shape, so it's going to be pushing the weight off of her face. So you'll see it shifting my elbow up and cutting short too long in the back, so shorter set the fringe and working triangular, basically straight up on the hair. So you'll see my over direction just working, so then it'll be a long point in the back, so we'll keep taking those sections and the partings through and then over directing them over top of the first section. So we created a stationary guide at the beginning and now we're going to over director it into it still cutting using that tip of this desert. It'S the easiest way to work through and cut a straight line, keeping the Coleman consistent. You can see that over direction, so right over top of the part, is where we're headed with with all the weight of the idea of this was we created all the layering in the back. We removed all the weight from the heavy side. So now this is gon na fall over top, so it'll push extra weight over top of those layers that we cut and then we'll push a cool little disconnection into the back of the air cut that she can kind of scrunch up. She likes to wear her hair a little bit wavier and fun, so this will allow you know that disconnection to have a little bit of length towards the back of the haircut almost all the way through. Basically, I'm going to cut this until there's no more hair that will reach over there so that every little bit of the hair is connected together. So it's the last little bit, you see, there's barely any hair left so now now we're going to work our way to the weaker side. So that's a hairdresser. You can't look at both sides as equals, so normally we're going to when we're cutting hair. We think. Okay, so we held it at 90 degrees on one side. Now we have to hold it at 90 degrees on the other. So basically the reason I cut the top and I removed so much weight from it was so that it would lay and look symmetrical. But that doesn't mean that each line is caught symmetrical as long as you explain that to the guests and they understand why. Each little bit of their hair might be a different length. Then you then you'll be alright. It'S just educating the guests on that. So when we work on the weak side, we're going to go through cut the line right below the jawline and then we're going to work our way through again real simple, directing everything straight out from the head. Just removing that tad bit of weight on the haircut. But still working 90 degrees, keeping with our balanced shape theme, there's been a lot of talk of you know. Should we speed these haircuts up? Should we do things I personally like that you can walk through this haircut step-by-step. I feel like this is something that you know you can take to a beauty school and you can learn it that way or you know you can sit in the salon on your time off and really just kind of watch through the haircut and mimic what's happening. So I think I'm liking the the haircuts. Are this length? You can definitely comment with us. Let us know we love feedback on how you feel about the haircuts. But hopefully hopefully you get a lot out of this one with the length that it is and there you go nice little balance sheet, we're going to move into a little bit of dry cutting again using that point of the scissor. This is the key thing and no haircut is done until it's detailed dry. That'S what I think. So. I'M gon na have her kind of toss, her hair back and forth, and look at how the hair falls and then I'm gon na go back in with the point of the scissor and keep working that line until it. It falls perfectly every time she shakes her head. What that's going to do is in turn when she goes to blow dry. Her hair she'll still have a perfect line in her haircut. Those lines are what make haircuts stand out. I know that I'm attracted to those kind of lines when I see anybody's work anywhere. I like seeing some kind of line in it, whether it's choppy or messy throughout the whole haircut. But if there's a nice solid line in there somewhere, it always catches my eye. So now we're going to go through with the teasing technique just to finish it off, but this will do is just add little light layers to it. So you know taking the perfect haircut and then just making it a little bit imperfect and adding that texture. This technique is cool. It'S very simple to do. You work your way in you're, half closing the scissor, so it's actually we're gon na pull it out for and show you slowed down version of it in just a second. So we're going to work our way in half closing the scissor just kind of teasing. You can see right there, it's a half, closed motion so, as you push the scissor in a little half close to it and you're not actually teasing the hair you're not trying to shove the scissor and just shake it back and forth on the hair, you're. Actually, half closing it as you work your way in so just start off um, you know working on, maybe a mannequin with it. You can work on a guest with it. Just you know, try a couple sections see how it's helped, but um. It'S not something that you can drastically mess up they're doing, but once you perfect the technique, it creates a really cool texture to the hair. So that is our balanced Bob. If you guys enjoy it, you you