10 Things To Consider Before You "Protective Style" | Black Girl Curls

Our hair is the only accessory that's front and center in everything we do. As an accessory, it's our prerogative to dress it up or down as much as we desire. We are not necessarily advocates of natural hair, as much as we are advocates of you deciding how you want to show up in the world whether it's rocking locs, a relaxer, wigs/weaves, etc. We also want you to keep healthy hair care habits at the top of mind when choosing how you want to show up.

During this discussion Black Girl Curls sits down Carlisa to unpack some common misconceptions about "protective styles."

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Carlisa

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Website: https://www.themissinglink-salon.com

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Foreign, so welcome to the black girl curl, almost 10 questions with the pro or 10 comment questions for the pro today. We are here with Carlisa, who is also known as protected by Lisa in the social space Lisa. Would you like? I can't release it sometimes because we work together, she's one of the mentees from one of my mentees and she's, also an Alum of kind of kinky, so her Lisa introduce yourself hi. My name is Carlisa. I'M a stylist here in Chicago Illinois, natural hair, protective styles, but I started off as a protective stylist. So that's me okay, so you started out as a protective stylist and what were you mainly doing so I was mainly doing in braids um faux Locs, goddess locks. Twists from time to time, but definitely closer to the lock side and like right inside okay and just a quick question just for those wondering uh, what made you transition over into uh well away from braids we're not really away or doing what? What changed? What changed! So um as I was braiding, I was getting a lot of hair that just wasn't cared for, and I was just like. So, what's up with the hair, how can we improve this and you know what would you do if you had the tools to be able to take care of it and a lot of people were like well, I would take better care of it. So I was like okay, let me shift my business model and start to educate folks on how to care for their hair before we do the protective style, so that way, at least when they're doing them they're not coming out worse, because that was happening a lot And that was pretty much the reason why I decided to do it. Okay, so I think that's awesome them to know, because I don't think a lot of people are aware of the impact that protective style and that's what we call Hair of a black girl curls. It'S in their quotes and the impact that it actually has on hair, but we're gon na get right into some common questions that come tend to come up with protective styling. So we're going to start with. How do you know when your hair is ready for a protective style? I think this is a great question from what we just talked about, such as braids twists, faux, Locs and Etc, like how do you know when the hair is ready, so one having an established routine? That is already situated where you're, giving your hair moisture on a regular basis is super important, because protective styling well, like you said, protect the styling is a somewhat dehydrating style. It'S just helpful to make sure your hair is at the highest point of hydration before you go in and take it away from it for an extended time. So establishing a routine is first and if you are somewhat like, I don't have a consistent routine yet that it might not be ideal for you to jump into that and when we say consistent routine we're seeing that there's cleansing, there's candy! Let me rewind cleansing with shampoo. I know a lot of people think that we like we emphasize this a lot, but there are a lot of folks out there who are not necessarily using shampoo as a method of cleansing, but the only way we stylists only recognize shampoo cleanse it with shampoo. That'S the only thing we recognize. I want to clarify that conditioning and styling, and this needs to be done regularly regularly, meaning every seven to ten days 14. If life gets crazy and we do understand that life does get crazy or you have some some circumstances in your life that prevent you from doing your hair, we get it, we totally get it, but if you're not doing that regularly according to Carlisa here, who is A expert I want to be clear: she is an export expert on protective styling. You will not be able or you should not. She doesn't recommend that you go into those Styles. So next question: when experiencing an itchy scalp, while in protective cells, what should you do? Okay, so I get this lesson a lot and the number one thing to do is to not grab oil, don't grab oil or additional products, but to wash your hair um. There are a lot of different reasons why your scalp could itch as a result of a protective style. It could be an allergy to the hair. It could be an allergy to some of the products that were used or it could just be. Your hair just really needs a cleanse because you have so much product packed for a pop after getting that install or just after applying so many things so washing, it is definitely going to be helpful with alleviating anything, that's causing discomfort to your scalp. So that way, it's not itching and bothering you no more and if it does itch just I'm sorry, I hate to say it, take it down. Take it down, sometimes take it down. Um I had braids last summer and I shampooed them conditioned them a week after I got them installed and they were still itchy and I was like yes, I can. I can't do this anymore and I just went out. I know you know you guys, spend x amount of dollars on getting these Styles done, but even with that being said, if it causes you discomfort and I'm I'm gon na put this as a blanket statement. Anything if a product causes you discomfort. If a braid causes you discomfort, if a installation of any store causes you any discomfort, that is a signal to take it down. Take it down just get rid of it. Just take it down. We got to start having these conversations, but again I'm glad that you pointed out all of those things I could be causing the itch. Okay next question: should we wash our hair while in a protective style? If so, how often should we do so? So definitely you should be still cleansing your scalp and your hair just expose. While you have your protective style and um. Typically, I suggest to my clients every seven to ten days, but it just depends on how active they are in the environment. They'Re in um. We'Re headed into May and in some areas it might be really hot, so you might sweat a little bit more in your scalp and especially if you're somebody who's working out, and things like that. You might want to play us on that seven day, timeline and comparison to 10 days. So just you know when your scalp is uncomfortable and you know when it's starting to get itchy. So just paying attention to that is also helpful and itchy does not mean at oil. No, no, we're not saying that to to be malicious. We are not laughing because we are because we know a lot we're laughing because, like this, these are common questions that have come up in the salon, and you know we have a lot of mindset, work to do in terms of how we care for um and Take care of or sorry care for and maintain our hair that, without a doubt, very important. Okay. So let's go on to the next question: what are healthy, hair tips? One should follow with their hair in a protective Style. All right! That'S a good question too. So we mentioned something already about cleansing it on a regular basis. That is key number one: two, not packing in a ton of products. All you have in that in style. That is a big thing. I see a lot of folks put in braids sprays, um gels, oils all of that stuff and attempts to refresh a style, and sometimes when you go in to take that down, that product is still present, even if you've been trying your best to wash it out. Sometimes it's still there, and so that can make it more difficult to take that style down. So we want to get away from that and then also not keeping it in for too long. That is a big part of why you have it in there. So if you've had your hair in that style - and it's been about six weeks, it is time to go ahead and take it out. Um, yes, just go ahead: it's been six weeks, you know um it's time and after you've taken that out, giving your hair a chance to innocent to breathe and be without that style for a bit. It'S also going to be helpful, so you can actually care for your real hair instead of just putting it back into the next violence. Innocence dehydrating it even more so slow, because you said a bit I feel like I like to give. I'M exhibit a time span of what a bit means, because everybody's a bit is different um, and I would say I mean I know you're the professional on this end right, but I would say because it takes if your hair is in good condition. It takes about two to three shampoos for it to bounce back in good condition. Yeah yeah, I would say you need to spend at least minimum four to eight weeks before you go back in to get that hair time to re-establish hydration again. Yes, yes, definitely, I like to say I learned from a dermatologist um, typically for as long as you have to style it. So initially I would say give yourself about two to four weeks. But after hearing that I'm like you know what that does make sense, giving your scalp especially a longer period of time to just get back on as normal, routine and not having stuff. On top of it irritating it and whatnot so giving yourself time like, I should just mention about that four-ish to six or even longer weeks that you've had in that style. So if you have had something in - and it's been like - maybe three to four weeks, then you can do three to four weeks of a break. I think that's great advice, I'm trying to be pretty sound when it comes to information and, most importantly, I think for us both it's always about the overall goal like what is your goal, because this is just a hairstyle and this hairstyle gon na be over. But what are we what's the goal of the hair moving forward like what are we trying to do so? I think keeping that at the Forefront of every decision you make about your hair if your goal is for your hair to be because I know these are these: are the goals that y'all have online? You know for your hair to be waist length. I don't know why y'all want that much hair, it's not my business! So um, it's a lot of work, a lot of work: okay, um! It'S it's already bad enough that people are taking excessively long to actually do their hair right. Yes, but if your goal is to have waist length hair, then there are certain things that you need to do and honestly they don't involve protective styling. I know y'all clutch, your curls we'll talk about it later. How long would you recommend Carlisa that protective styles should be kept in? I think we touched on this a little bit again, so it depends on the style that you have all Styles have different timelines like maybe you have beaten braids. Those are probably not going to last you six weeks, um. Maybe you have not list braids. Those might give you six weeks so, depending on what style you have that might change how long you keep something in um, but generally I always suggest, don't go any longer than six to eight weeks and eight is just the cushion for six and that's it. Maybe it's taking you a little bit longer to take your hair down than what you planned for so you might be going a little bit over six weeks, but you're not intentionally trying to drag it out that long. So just give me awesome Grace I wouldn't suggest I mean you didn't y'all didn't ask me, but I would suggest when you get your braids to timeline like wear six weeks and wears eight weeks and then choose make a date with your hair for the takedown yeah, Because when you come out of this style, you're definitely going to need to do some treatments um to your hair. It'S not just like going and shampoo, but that's another day. Another discussion for another time, because it's taking down the brakes is all another story. Yes, one more thing, I want to ask you about, because I think this kind of uh relates to this question Carlisa. What do you think about this current trend of people um? I guess refreshing, like nine of their braids. What do you think about this? Are you talking about like crocheting, refreshing I've seen that too? Yes, that yeah? So when I speak about refreshing, I usually speak about it like those braids are being removed, that maybe it's the first two rows or maybe it's the perimeter of your phrase and maybe you're taking that down washing that hair and then reinstalling the braids that I find To be okay, but also you're not going to keep that style in for another six weeks. That'S something that just helps so your edges aren't being pulled on and things like that um, but not a way. They like prolong the style for a very long time. Maybe like two more weeks, um the crochet method. I really really was so nervous when I saw it because, oh my gosh, how are you gon na get this knot out when you take this braid down, because you have interlocked your hair pretty much, and now you have a knot that will continue to have more Debris more buildup and things in there and now that's going to be even harder for you to detangle when you're taking it down. So I'm just not a fan. If you are looking for a way to refresh um, I would suggest that taking the braids down getting them redone, whether that's your perimeter or something along those lines, but definitely not crocheting stuff and making it harder to take it down. Okay, thank you for that, because I have seen so many horror stories about people taking down. Well that ain't my horror but they're. It sounds horrible to me because you didn't go into the style with the intention of losing hair, like people are cutting too much hair off um. The hair is just in such a condition from the the amount of time that the style has fit in, and So speaking of Roblox too real quick. Those are not like long long term Styles like they should be of all they're, the most fragile of all the styling out there. If I'm not mistaken the the faux Locs specifically yes, yes, they are the heaviest. They have the most weight to them. Um and a lot of people assume to be great vacation Styles, but really, I wouldn't suggest, jumping off a boat into an ocean or anybody of water with a head full of faux Locs. That is a ton of hair. It'S gon na be really heavy it'll. Take a long time to drive. No, so I feel like they're one of those like. I really wanted to do something special and different type of styles, just because it's a lot of things that come along with it. You know, okay, that sounds not comfortable and it does not sound fun for vacation. I can release the windows. A protective style become harmful for your hair. It becomes harmful when your hair isn't taken care of to begin with. So if we are putting in the protective styles as a way to get healthier, hair or as a way to get away from doing our hair for a while till it gets to the lens, we wanted to be in we're neglecting our hair. Up. Until that point, and so what I've seen behind the chair is, I've had some folks come in sometimes and maybe they've had Midlands hair or a taper cut and they're like I want to keep it in braids. Until I get to shoulder length - and let's say maybe that's for a year, your hair has been dehydrated for a year, it might not hold a style. Well, you might need a major haircut, so it can become harmful. In that way, I think we have to change our mindset around thinking that they're a way to shortcut to healthy hair or away the bypass the care you have to give your hair, because it really isn't it's just literally a different way like. Oh, I'm decided to do a twist out this week instead of a wash and go it's just a different style. It'S not a way to you, know kind of cut the line to get ahead um if anything and when you're doing that it tends to cost issues down the line. I have to say, like I totally agree with you um and also. I think we need to touch on the fact that people think that putting their hair in protect Styles is a way to give themselves a break yeah. Apparently it is a okay. I want you guys to take a deep breath before I say this, but there is a level ethnic collect attached to wearing protective styles um, and it be because of one our idea behind them would like put them in it's like set it and forget it. This is not the air fryer friends, that's not the air fryer up in here. Oh no, it's not the air fryer! You know you can pop something to air fryer and go on with your life yeah. No! No! If you got goals, ain't no popping in and going with your life, like that's, not how any of this works, and I'm I'm actually thinking of an experience I have with braids in college. I got some individual braids. God bless the ladies ladies, who did my individual braids that took 13 hours to do and never do that again yeah, but I had a relaxer at the time and I wore them for the entire summer, because I was away at school. I stayed for summer school. I wore those braids for two, I think maybe two and a half months, because that's that was the you know. So that was the narrative you could put them in. You should wear them for two months yeah. Maybe my hair came out of those braids. I have the kind of hair that literally has a really good curl like memory for styling. Like you curled my hair, when I was relaxed, you could curl it and My Curls. I would wrap my hair up every night and my curls will last like four or five days before they would fall, and so I came out of those braids. Maybe the curls was gone like an hour after I had done my hair. It took my hair six months to bounce back for those braids and I was like oh no, I'm out the game like yep again, because that one time that, once it it takes one time um and when we're talking about relaxing, there's a whole different set of You know, circumstances and requirements, but knowing what it takes to get your hair back at what we like to call stasis, we just want to get it. We just want to be here all the time, but sometimes we go here and then we got ta get back and sometimes the braids can take you so far away from there that it's just the only way to get back is with shares. I know y'all don't want to hear that man, it's hard to say sometimes, but sometimes you just see it and you're like you know what we're gon na have to cut some of this and you know start over yeah yeah it'll be pretty though it's gon na, Be so healthy, like we're not wearing braids for 12 months, at least no at least they're like what no brains, okay, Carlisa? What are a few tips that can help prevent thinning edges while in a protective Style? So I like to say, being very selective about your braider, that is the biggest thing um looking at their work and just paying attention to the hairline for the folks that you see making sure you don't see redness or bumps, and things like that and discomfort. Just for you to know, I'm going to somebody that is not about to snatch my soul with these edges. That is the biggest thing um. Secondly, if you do start to feel some discomfort around this, like it's pulling or it's not really as secure as normal go ahead and take it out it's okay to take it out, um, you can lay that down. Sometimes I do that myself, especially around my hairline, closer to my ear, where this hair is very fine. I'Ll, take these sprays out. Sometimes if it's been oh four weeks out of my install or three weeks and I'm like okay, this is enough and I'll go ahead and take that out and kind of suck it behind, and that's just an effort to not over tire that hair or to make It to the point where it's just don't want to come out and it's not going to come back, so that would be a big tip and then also if you do have finer hair stay away from the heavier hairstyles. We just talked about faux Locs faux. Locs are not ideal. If you have finer hair, the hair is way too heavy um you're, basically wrapping a box braid with additional hair. So that is a lot. If you have finer hair um. I have seen a lot of times where that hair will break off completely as a result of that, so just picking styles, that are going to be beneficial. So if you do have finer hair, something like knotless braids might be better for you, because they aren't as taut on those edges like a faux loc would be so just keeping in mind like there are a lot of cute styles out here. We might not be able to do all of them, but just keeping in mind. Okay. If my hair looks like this, maybe I don't need a lot of weight on those edges and that'll be super helpful. I love that you pointed out about fine hair because of all the people don't find here. Folks, and I even would say, those who are tender headed have to who have tender. Scalps have to be mindful of the styles that they choose, because that tension not only can be comfortable, but it could possibly pose uh a risk for compromising your hair and what we don't want to do is compromise any of the hair. So yes, please be mindful of the styles that you're choosing and even if you have hair that is coarse, I don't even think I could survive for faux. Locs, honestly - and you know how coarse my hair is, my head is about to break last year like it definitely is, like you said, one haven't color treated hair, that's also another conversation in relation to braids, like I tell folks with color treated hair, giving yourself time. Let the color get a little older, so your hair isn't this weekend when you do do it doing treatments before you get the braids after the braids and then also my color folks, they cannot go longer than three to four weeks, but like a lot of them, The hair is already dehydrated when we're doing stuff, even more dehydrating, so for somebody like that you're already starting out more tired, I'm starting here - I want to be here - I'm here yeah and when you were talking about this hair along that along the um, the edges. This is called uh. This area will be considered of the Bella's hair, and this hair is so fine to begin with. It is everybody I don't care who we're talking about. Everybody'S edges are fragile, so we need to treat all of our edges like newborn babies. Like yes with care - and we say this as hair stylists because we like to get in the front of things - we don't want to like cause something, and then it escalates into a thing we're trying to prevent things from happening. So if you're, a stylist like you ask for something yourself is like no ma'am, you need to she's, not saying no man, because she don't feel like doing it or he they don't feel like doing it or they don't well. Sometimes we don't think it looks good on you, but that's another story for another day: um! It'S it's because for a lot of stylists, the health of your hair is at the Forefront of every single appointment that we have with you. So I want you all to be able to take that away. There are a lot of stylists who care about the condition of your hair, but it is up to you to choose to partner with stylists who share such a philosophy as well: okay, Kalisa. What is the best way to preserve protective styles at night, so I like to use just a regular star. I like stars because I feel like they're more secure than buying it, especially the longer binders, because most sides they end up on the floor when you sleep, but now they're starting to be those kind of bonnets. I think where it's just I've seen those results. Yeah, I'm like I don't know about that being on your hairline all night, every night, so I'm more of a scarf person um. Sometimes if your hair is starting to get a little bit older. Maybe it's been three to four weeks. You can put some mousse on your hair before you go to sleep well, just on the style itself and then tie it down overnight, but just making sure you're keeping your edges preserved and that style pretty much as fresh as possible, tying it down and something helpful. It should I wan na I wan na reiterate, put the mousse on the braid, not on your scalp. I see a lot of. I see a lot of people doing and I'm like that's gon na be itchy. I already know it's about that. It'S going to be itchy like in about 3 three to five days that is going to be itchy, so avoid putting the product directly on your scalp and focus more on the actual braid yeah yeah, because you're trying to keep it Sleek, that's the focus of it. We want to put it on there to lay it down, so it looks nice. So just keep that in mind we're just trying to help out. That'S all we just collectively. We want to help the community. That'S that's what we want to do. Okay. Last question: early, sir: if I get my hair wet from swimming or other water activities, how should I clean the chlorine or salt water for my hair? So if we are on vacation, I always suggest to bring you like little mini um, shampoo and conditioner bottles with you just so you can go in and wash your hair because, ultimately that's what you're going to need to do so. This is another reason why I mentioned a little while ago. Phrase would be better for your vacation over something heavy like faux. Locs braids don't take as long to dry, so you could go wash your hair air dry by the pool or what have you and you're good but faux Locs. You might be a little drippy later when you go out to dinner, so that way at least you can get in rinse that out wash it out and then go on about your day. So your Essentials when you're traveling, your mini shampoo, mini conditioner and then a mousse, and you are okay now with the bubble oxide. This is totally out of our questions, but with the faux Locs does the length matter in terms of them being heavy they're just heavy in general because of the wrapping of the additional extension hair around there. I feel like in comparison to other styles, they're heavier in general, so when I think about like knotless, braids or spring twists versus faux Locs spring twist and not list sprays are a lot highlighter than the faux Locs are and, like you said, it's the method of How much additional hair you're wrapping around now? Some folks are doing soft locks now, which is like a crochet method, to attach a pre-made lock for your hair. That one is a little bit lighter, but it still has more weight than a traditional light, just braid or twist, and that's just the amount of hair being used like it's just not the same amount, and so it does make it heavier. Especially when you add that water into the equation and my whole thing on vacation is you want to enjoy it, you don't want to have to worry about your hair being something else you got to wear about so either wearing your natural hair in a style. That'S going to be flexible for your trip or, like I said, braids of some sort, there's so many variations of that to accommodate while you're gone, okay, so Carlisa. I think this is. I love the tip about. You know understanding I because I never even considered the weight of faux Locs and then going on vacation. I think that probably is the biggest takeaway for me, although you wouldn't see me with the braids, because I don't like them, I just have not it the time it takes me. I could have did something else with the time to get the braids and also, I know cute ways to deal while I'm on vacation with my hair and also I do not mind wearing my hair like this on vacation, I will show up to a dinner just Like this, it's okay, yeah y'all, that I love that you you made that um, that differentiation in terms of thinking about one yeah, listen lifestyle's so important when it comes to our hair and so choosing something that aligns with not only your your desired look, but also Aligning that with your uh lifestyle is so important, so I want to thank her Lisa for coming through with the protective style experience here, because she has way more experience than I did when it comes to protective styles. But I appreciate you for sharing your knowledge with us today and I will tell you guys if y'all have more questions. Y'All feel like Harleys did not answer drop a comment below and maybe there might be a part two. If y'all got enough questions that just you feel like she, ain't hit it on on these things and if she has time in her schedule because she has a life that is also newly engaged, congratulations again and uh we'll come back um. I think this was amazing. I I feel so much more comfortable about making a decision to to get braids in the future and you guys can find her Lisa on Instagram at protected by Lisa. She also has a you: have a you: have a book about taking care of your braids right. Yeah, so I have a e-guide that I created it is called protective, stylus Anonymous guide to healthy hair. So I created it for folks who are like I'm doing protective styles, because I just don't know what else to do, and I'm trying to figure out how to get started on doing this healthy hair thing and how to better take care of my hair transition. Out of these Styles and how to care for it, while I'm doing all of that, so I wanted to give you all something to just have with you at home, while you're navigating that - and I do have that available. Where can they find it Lisa um? It'S on my website, so www.themissingling salon, learn.com um. If you are on any of my socials, my links are available as well, and that way we can access it either way all right awesome. Well, thank you again to Lisa, and we hope that this has been super helpful in you deciding whether to do a protective style and also which protective style to choose again based on your lifestyle and your own personal uh hair like because we we need to keep Our hair in mind when we're doing stuff to our hair, not everybody else is here our hair, so we hope it helps with you guys deciding that um until the next episode of 10 common questions with the pro we will see you next time all right. Thanks for having me already

Tell me why: Thank you ladies for taking the time to share this important information with us. It has helped me so much. I truly appreciate it ❤️

Latoya Lackey: Great info!!! I have always wanted to know how long to keep those styles. I mainly would get crochet locks. It seems that I can’t go but 4 weeks and my scalp is itching and flaky so I go about 6 weeks but by then I don’t want to spend all of that money only to take it out so quickly! So I have done only 6 weeks. Hair still has build up so I kinda gauge it.

kinkyfrolisa: Great discussions on protective style

Harlem Hottie: Sections of my hair are just too fine for protective styling whatsoever. I just reached this conclusion and I have a TON of braiding hair.

shanya espy: Quick suggestion , could you quiet the background music it’s distracting from the conversation

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